2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 166 - AVS Forum
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post #4951 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hidefvics View Post

I have had my HL67A750 for 3 weeks now and here are my ideal settings for 1080p blu ray playback in a completely dark room, sitting 10'-6" away, middle of screen at eye level using my PS3 via HDMI.

Im still not too sure on Gamma but went with -2 based on Les Bailey's calibration findings in a previous post.
Also, not too sure on Color Gamut: sRGB but use it because everyone else here seems to. I find the reds to be a bit on the orange side with this setting though. I am hoping someone can explain why sRGB seems to be the preferred setting?

Picture Mode: Movie
Contrast: 80 (was using 90 but find that 80 is less straining on my eyes, produces a bit less Screen Shimmer effect, and provides better detail in darker scenes)
Brightness: 47 (using AVSHD)
Sharpness: 0 (using AVSHD)
Color: 50 (using AVSHD)
Tint 50/50 (using AVSHD)

Detailed Settings
Black Adj: off
Dyn Contrast: off
LED Control: Low (was using Medium and may go back but find Low provides a more film like look)
Gamma: -2 (was at +1, but going with Les Bailey's findings)
White Bal: 0
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Ehancement: off
xvYCC: off

Picture Options
Color Tone: Warm 1 (I find Warm 2 to be too orange)
Size: Just Scan
Digital NR: off
DNIe: off (greyed out)
HDMI Black Lvl: Normal (greyed out)
Film Mode: off (greyed out)
Blue Only Mode: off
Color Gamut: sRGB (still not sure on this, and find reds to be a bit orange)

External Settings
Light Effect: off (I have it on when watching regular TV)

PS3 settings
Video Output format: Auto
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White: On
RGB Full Range: Limited (greyed out)

Hi,

RGB works fine on game consoles, if your useing the latest Video cards and or BD players then you want xvYCC or set HDMI at wide. Most of the greyed out settings will be available depending on connecion type

You can tweek your settings to your eye as I do not follow everyones scheme as I am Red/Green color blind and can see differences that most cannot see (camouflage for example). With my wife helping we can make a very close to realistic color scheme. As for Movie and Broadcast... you can't make both the same unfortunately.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #4952 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klyde View Post

I sit approx 15ft from it. Perfect for me.

http://www.engadgethd.com/2006/12/09...o-screen-size/

http://www.carltonbale.com/home-thea...er-calculator/

Is there any way to move closer? You're really robbing yourself of detail by sitting so far away. The ideal viewing distance on the 67" is roughly 9 feet.

Yamaha RX-A1020 AVR | Paradigm Monitor 11v7 L/R | Paradigm Monitor Center 3v7 C | Paradigm Monitor Surround 3v7 LS/RS | Klipsch SW-350 sub
Samsung HL61A750 HDTV | Oppo BDP-103 blu-ray player | Logitech Harmony 650 | Sony PS3 Slim 500gb | Nintendo Wii


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post #4953 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjlent View Post

Someone here (RossRS?) had said that he didn't have a problem with the TV's sound on dish network HD programs (his TV speakers worked), and that the TV was also passing the 5.1 audio out to his amp via the TOSlink (his older amp didn't have HDMI). But he was using a VIP722 (I've got a 622). I'm wondering if his 722 is outputting multichannel LPCM? If so, upgrading my dish network receiver to a 722 might be what I need to do. The 622 only puts out 2 channel PCM or dolby.

That was me. Yesterday discussion lead me to question if I have the ViP722 set for PCM. Forgot to check when I got home in the evening, but this morning I confirm that I had Dolby/PCM checked. So I changed to Dolby only and did a little channel hopping. Still have sound on analog stations and digital stations via Dishnet.

For what its worth, the Dolby, Dolby/PCM, PCM option is for setting the TosLink output. I don't know for sure, but I understood the difference between the ViP622 and ViP722 was just the size of the hard drive and a different cabinet. Checking the manuals for 622 and 722, the audio setput options are identical.

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post #4954 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:26 AM
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This is my first time posting, and am not sure if I'm doing this correctly, but....
I jsut got my A750 last night, as a replacement to a JVC HDILA that went bad. 61". The Samsumg unit seems "flimzy". When I grab both corners, I can "twist" it slightly. Is this normal for all A750 units, or did I get one that might be defective. Thanks for the replies!
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post #4955 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davereininger View Post

This is my first time posting, and am not sure if I'm doing this correctly, but....
I jsut got my A750 last night, as a replacement to a JVC HDILA that went bad. 61". The Samsumg unit seems "flimzy". When I grab both corners, I can "twist" it slightly. Is this normal for all A750 units, or did I get one that might be defective. Thanks for the replies!

This is normal. It's like that on all 750s...
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post #4956 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

I've measured the light output at 100% stimulus white, and at 90 contrast you're pushing around 120ftL. Recommended SMPTE viewing level is 30ftL. I've recently brought mine down to 75 contrast, hitting around 50ftL, still high, but easier on the eyes then what you see at 90, and you'll get back some details in your higher contrast scenes. I also recently finished calibrating my set, and found that Gamma at -2 provided the most consistent results, with an average Gamma of 2.3. I'll add the charts in this message later today.

What LED level was it on? Seems like you should use LED level to control overall light output, and brightness contrast could pretty much stay fixed, with the LED level to adjust for day/nighttime viewing.
I'm using gamma 0 now for movie mode. I found this to be the best for details. I used various scenes on Blu Ray to pick this, notably some from Transformers. Paused the picture on a wall in the bunker where all the analysts are trying to decode the hack signal. Had a great scene with some brightness form the monitors, and the wall had lots of dark and shadow detail that ramped up to a lit portion. Gamma 0 was a the clear winner for natural looking colors, even light to dark gradations, and lots of shadow details.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theslug View Post

I picked up a ps3 and am trying it with rgb limited and the tv's hdmi black level set to low, as indicated in the first post in this thread. But when I play a bluray or dvd, and check the tv's settings, the hdmi black level is set to normal and grayed out, so I can't change it.

I am seeing banding in various things possibly as a result of this. In the Superman Returns trailer on the included demo disc, there is significant banding when the DC logo appears. I haven't fully tested to see if it's with the source material or the settings though. (for all I know it could just be the way the trailer was recorded, so I'm trying to find other things to test).

Any thoughts?

edit: I also tried Full/Normal, but that did not seem to make any difference. Also tried the movie/standard/dynamic and the various color gamuts, again no difference.

You should have your PS3 movie using YPbPr (or Auto) mode. In this case the RGB and HDMI black level have no effect, and can't be adjusted. If you see banding in YPb mode, then it is in the source. RGB will be used for the PS3 XMB and games, but YPb for movies.
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post #4957 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 08:03 AM
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can someone recommend a good calibration disc/device that has worked well on this set...i just cant justify $300-$400 for a professional calibration, mainly because if i a light engine has to get replaced, all that is gone
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post #4958 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 08:10 AM
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Have the 61A750 for over two weeks now and wanted to comment on the obsession with stand height and off-center viewing that ebbs and flows here in this thread. I personally think people get way too wrapped up in that, and the typical big-box store environment feeds that, as well.

First up, my set is great in my family room, with no problem with uneven brightness from any point that I normally view the set from. This includes being 15 feet off the center line when sitting a table 20 feet away in the kitchen.


Big as the local Best Buy or Circuit City may be, aisle size and restrictions means people stand about 4-6 feet from a set when they are shopping in this environment.

Samsung's recommendations for viewing a 61" set is no closer than 7.2 feet. At that distance and with your eye on the center line of the set, the top and bottom of the screen are 10 degrees (9.9 deg. actually) from the center line. Samsung states viewing angle on the horizontal axis is +/- 30 degrees. As your viewing distance increases, the angle to the top and bottom decrease, putting you more and more inside the 30 degree sweet spot.

Let's assume the set's on a stand 18 inches off the floor and you're six foot tall, and standing 5 feet away. That puts your center line of sight at 66". Now you're 34 degree off center to the bottom of the screen and 10 degrees off center to the top of screen. Of course the bottom of the screen is dimmer! You're way off from a normal viewing angle.

The point I trying to make is consider where you are when checking a set out in the store. It's nothing like your room at home, so find a way to step back (and down if you can) to your real viewing distance so you get a clear idea of how it will look when you have it at home. You are really getting a distorted perception of what the set looks like if you don't.

If you are going to use it for video games like Rock Band, standing is a valid comparation in this case, but keep the viewing distance in mind. And don't forget, there is nothing sacred about an 18" stand. You can raise it for both good seated and standing views in the same room.

This is a great set. Don't talk yourself out of a great bargain because of distorted perception at the store! Try to check it out with what you expect to be your viewing conditions.

The numbers:

Seated, on axis, angle to top/bottom of screen:
distance.............angle
5 feet.................14 deg
7.2 feet...............9.9 deg
10 feet................7.1 deg
15 feet................4.7 deg

Standing, 26 inches off-center (41 inches from bottom)., angle to top/bottom:
distance...................angle
5 feet...................10.4 deg/ 34.3 deg
7.2 feet.................7.3 deg/ 25.4 deg
10 feet..................5.2 deg/ 18.9 deg
15 feet..................3.5 deg/ 12.8 deg

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post #4959 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinturboaudi View Post

can someone recommend a good calibration disc/device that has worked well on this set...i just cant justify $300-$400 for a professional calibration, mainly because if i a light engine has to get replaced, all that is gone

if you are looking for a great blu ray calibration disk...just download the AVSHD 709 patterns found in the Calibration thread in this forum.

has all the patterns you will need to adjust your tv...and it is FREE.
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post #4960 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

What LED level was it on? Seems like you should use LED level to control overall light output, and brightness contrast could pretty much stay fixed, with the LED level to adjust for day/nighttime viewing.

I always use Low. The Brightness and Contrast will of course change with different LED levels, even though the actual Brightness and Contrast settings in the menus don't.

What I'm letting people know, is that this set produces more than enough light levels at the lower LED settings, much more than normal viewers need it set at. It will affect the details in the picture that have a lot of high contrast shots(washout). It also leads to eye fatigue when viewing in darkened rooms. I keep the same settings on whether it's daytime or nighttime. Though for some users, it would have been nice for Samsung to include a Day/Night mode to the user menus for each input. It could also have been made to switch over automatically by checking the time on the TV.

My Hitachi HD CRT RPTV had this feature.
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post #4961 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 08:49 AM
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I use the opening scene from the movie The Fifth Element. Where the view of earth is on the left side, and the alien ship is flying in. There is a dark starfield in the background, and you should be able to see quite a lot of detail on the ship as it moves through the scene.
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post #4962 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

I always use Low. The Brightness and Contrast will of course change with different LED levels, even though the actual Brightness and Contrast settings in the menus don't.

What I'm letting people know, is that this set produces more than enough light levels at the lower LED settings, much more than normal viewers need it set at. It will affect the details in the picture that have a lot of high contrast shots(washout). It also leads to eye fatigue when viewing in darkened rooms. I keep the same settings on whether it's daytime or nighttime. Though for some users, it would have been nice for Samsung to include a Day/Night mode to the user menus for each input. It could also have been made to switch over automatically by checking the time on the TV.

My Hitachi HD CRT RPTV had this feature.


I agree... it seemed to me that a lot have over saturation, but again light levels in the home dictate that.

It seems that my settings are very close to yours, but I assuem around 10% tolarances with anything any way.

I thought I liked low contrast... ~75 at ~53 brightness with Movie Mode, Warm 1 and LED set at Med.

These settings are left alone and work for all viewing content day or night.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #4963 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjlent View Post

Yea, I know that the HL61A750's speakers are tinny/poor, but because it has a software equilizer built in, and audio normalization, I can easily boost the dialog audio without raising the rest of the audio (not as easy to do with my HT-R640 Onkyo AVR). The "late night" feature tends to turn down the "dialog audio" even more, so you end up turning up the volume anyways just to hear the dialog. I'll try raising the center channel a few decibels to maybe fix that somewhat.

I like the settings on my AVR for when I am watching a movie, and am not worried about disturbing anyone. I thought that by having the sound on the TV speakers late at night, I could avoid the occasional car crash/commercial/channel change from waking everyone up in the house (in the living room, not a dedicated AV room). Keep in mind, two 10 watt speakers vs five 100 watt speakers + 250W sub, and the 10 watt Tv speakers don't have the low freq response so the sound tends not to travel very far (low freq's tend to go right through walls).

No HD tv's decode Dolby from an HDMI input? Yes, this is my first time I've used an HDMI input to an HD tv (ran component to my HD projector). Only reason I can see for that, is if the movie studios insisted it be that way to protect their precious content (even the audio). The thing to do there would have been to allow decoding & down-mixing to 2 channel stereo for the TV's speakers, but not allow audio to be output (via TOSlink, etc) from the TV in anything other than 2 channel PCM (or not at all) if coming in from an HDMI port.

RickRS, are you sure your getting 5.1 from the optical link out of your sammy? You should if it's OTA programming (connected to TV's tuner), but not if it's Sat HD programming coming in from HDMI (from what I understand anyways). Are you sure your VIP722 is not just sending out 2 channel PCM (see setup menu)? Because then you will get sound out of the TV (but no 5.1 to the amp). I can't imagine that the studios would allow that precious audio content be sent out via an unencrypted optical link.

I understand exactly why your trying to do what your trying to do; and I'm glad my house is big enough I don't have to worry about it.

Rather than try to account for this with HDMI...Why not run COMPONENT video and COMPOSITE audio from your source to the TV. Every source I know of has stereo-out jacks and every HDMI source I've come across has COMPONENT video as well.

As I understand it, COMPONENT video will do all HD formats except 1080P...and on sets this size...for the occasional late-night viewing...do you care if its 720P/1080i vs. 1080P????

Try it, I think it solves your problem...

Jeff Grimes

HT Enthusiast
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post #4964 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicodimus22 View Post

http://www.engadgethd.com/2006/12/09...o-screen-size/

http://www.carltonbale.com/home-thea...er-calculator/

Is there any way to move closer? You're really robbing yourself of detail by sitting so far away. The ideal viewing distance on the 67" is roughly 9 feet.

not without rebuilding the LR. Its 32ft long Im at 1/2 just befor the fireplace. If I move the TV it will be in the walkway, If I move the couch, it will be in front of the fireplace.
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post #4965 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by klyde View Post

not without rebuilding the LR. Its 32ft long Im at 1/2 just befor the fireplace. If I move the TV it will be in the walkway, If I move the couch, it will be in front of the fireplace.

Rats. Well, you could always go bigger!

Yamaha RX-A1020 AVR | Paradigm Monitor 11v7 L/R | Paradigm Monitor Center 3v7 C | Paradigm Monitor Surround 3v7 LS/RS | Klipsch SW-350 sub
Samsung HL61A750 HDTV | Oppo BDP-103 blu-ray player | Logitech Harmony 650 | Sony PS3 Slim 500gb | Nintendo Wii


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post #4966 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 10:17 AM
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My wife sits at about 10ft but her love seat is off about 30 degrees to the side. I sat there and there is no drop off of brightness. Yes I wanted a bigger one but the only one left was the 73 mits. I didn't want to deal with the wheel and bulb.
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post #4967 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Couldn't agree with you more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickRS View Post

Have the 61A750 for over two weeks now and wanted to comment on the obsession with stand height and off-center viewing that ebbs and flows here in this thread. I personally think people get way too wrapped up in that, and the typical big-box store environment feeds that, as well.

....

This is a great set. Don't talk yourself out of a great bargain because of distorted perception at the store! Try to check it out with what you expect to be your viewing conditions.

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post #4968 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:06 PM
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Hi, just got my HL67A750 and changed settings to the recommended found at the beginning of this thread - looks good so far.

Quick question, is there any way to turn off the annoying sound/music that the set makes when you turn it on and off?
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post #4969 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:18 PM
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strange mine doesn't make any sound/music
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post #4970 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solara View Post

Hi, just got my HL67A750 and changed settings to the recommended found at the beginning of this thread - looks good so far.

Quick question, is there any way to turn off the annoying sound/music that the set makes when you turn it on and off?

It says how to do it somewhere deep in the guidebook. Also if the Samsung light on the front annoys you, it can be turned off. I like the pretty chime the set makes, but keep it set to low. It's the light that I find too distracting and keep it off.
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post #4971 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

You should have your PS3 movie using YPbPr (or Auto) mode. In this case the RGB and HDMI black level have no effect, and can't be adjusted. If you see banding in YPb mode, then it is in the source. RGB will be used for the PS3 XMB and games, but YPb for movies.

Thanks Mike. I actually already have it on YPbPr, and just watched Wanted on Blu-ray with no evidence of banding, so I'm not too concerned at this point. (In fact the only banding I saw was in the Universal logo at the beginning..don't know if that's normal or not.)
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post #4972 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solara View Post

Hi, just got my HL67A750 and changed settings to the recommended found at the beginning of this thread - looks good so far.

Quick question, is there any way to turn off the annoying sound/music that the set makes when you turn it on and off?

In the menu, go to Setup, then External Settings, then change Melody to Off.
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post #4973 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solara View Post

Hi, just got my HL67A750 and changed settings to the recommended found at the beginning of this thread - looks good so far.

Quick question, is there any way to turn off the annoying sound/music that the set makes when you turn it on and off?

Same place as the blue led light control (Setup | External Settings).

Quote:
Originally Posted by klyde View Post

strange mine doesn't make any sound/music

You only get the sound if you use the TV speakers; the chime is disabled if the speakers are turned off.

G.
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post #4974 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 09:35 PM
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Just got mine today and I'm very disapointed. Grainy, fuzzy, tried everething and the calibration in the first post. Nothing helped. Even with the blu-ray Samsung 1500, my old JVC 27" is more clear.
anybody had thoses issues, I made my mind after readings the pages and frankly I'm so frustrated and want to kick myself for not trying the set at the shop before all the hassle to take it home.

I will return this TV right away.
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post #4975 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by polo20g View Post

Just got mine today and I'm very disapointed. Grainy, fuzzy, tried everething and the calibration in the first post. Nothing helped. Even with the blu-ray Samsung 1500, my old JVC 27" is more clear.
anybody had thoses issues, I made my mind after readings the pages and frankly I'm so frustrated and want to kick myself for not trying the set at the shop before all the hassle to take it home.

I will return this TV right away.

Why are you making such a rash decision to return it after only a day? It takes time to finely tune it to your liking. Plenty of people here are more than happy with the set, especially after calibration. Remember that settings from one person won't necessarily be great on yours.
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post #4976 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 10:41 PM
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Admittedly, however, I've never heard of one of these sets looking so grainy and fuzzy, if the OP's description above is, in fact, accurate.
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post #4977 of 15706 Old 12-17-2008, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polo20g View Post

Just got mine today and I'm very disapointed. Grainy, fuzzy, tried everething and the calibration in the first post. Nothing helped. Even with the blu-ray Samsung 1500, my old JVC 27" is more clear.
anybody had thoses issues, I made my mind after readings the pages and frankly I'm so frustrated and want to kick myself for not trying the set at the shop before all the hassle to take it home.

I will return this TV right away.

I received mine this week and working today HL67A750 (got it working after modifying and expanding previous entertainment center that was not designed for a TV this large) and could not be happier with it. Sounds like some issue with setup, cables or hook-up to me. No thought of return here. Good Luck!

Samsung HL67A750 RPTV, TWO 2013 Hoppers w/Sling, OTA Digital Dongle, My Book Essential 750Gb EXTERNAL hard drive, ONKYO HT-S9100 THX speakers & ONKYO TX-NR616 A/V receiver, ONKYO DV-BD606 Blu-Ray Disc Player, Harmony ONE Remote, GOOGLE TV, w 4 other TV's (LCD & LED).
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post #4978 of 15706 Old 12-18-2008, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hidefvics View Post

Im still not too sure on Gamma but went with -2 based on Les Bailey's calibration findings in a previous post.


Detailed Settings
Black Adj: off
Dyn Contrast: off
LED Control: Low (was using Medium and may go back but find Low provides a more film like look)
Gamma: -2 (was at +1, but going with Les Bailey's findings)
White Bal: 0
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Ehancement: off
xvYCC: off

Does the Gamma settings have name tags? I know on my 5087w DLP Gamma 1 was [Graphic] Which was the best for video games and PCs.
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post #4979 of 15706 Old 12-18-2008, 07:01 AM
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I picked up my HL67A750 this past weekend for $1949 at CC.
CC only had the 61" on display and Mitsubishi. My wife saw the 61" on display and it looked awful compare to the Mitsubishi. The Mitsubishi DLP lighting looked Even through out the screen, where as the 61" on display looked white in the middle and bluest on the top and bottom. My wife hated it. She was so against it. But I talked her into getting it and telling her it will look better at home. Plus who knows how long the TV has been on display or who changed the settings...

Only reason I picked up the HL67A750 because of all the reviews so I made the leap and got it.

I'm happy I did. This thing is huge! I am very happy with the quality. It seems to look better the more you watch it. Like it needed a breakin period. Or maybe I'm just getting use to it :P
I was worried about the off viewing angles and the TV looking dark if not viewing at eye level. But my sofa's are not directly infront of the TV and it still looks great! The thing I did notice, was people suggested using the MOVIE setting, Which looks fine. Seems that it darkends the picture. And also softens the image. So it looks more blurry. Also Standard def sources looks like crap on this :P But that was expected.
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post #4980 of 15706 Old 12-18-2008, 08:50 AM
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But how does your wife like it?

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