2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 334 - AVS Forum
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post #9991 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 05:20 PM
 
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Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

Mike_pro touched on this on P. 1 of this forum too.

Oh I know. I just respectfully disagree with the suggestion made in that post. I would use Full and an HDMI level of Normal only if I was a gamer, but I primarily stick to movies. The pros have said that for proper calibration you should stick with Limited and adjust accordingly.
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post #9992 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 06:51 PM
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I haven't messed with those settings for awhile. I currently have full/normal, but I'll try the other given all the recent SM changes. However, I do notice color-banding on some jpegs viewed on the PS3 (e.g. a sunset shot), and in some games (e.g. when fading to black). I'm not sure if the banding is from the source material or the TV/PS3 settings. It's still nothing compared to the banding I see on my Westinghouse 32'' LCD (...somewhere....over the rainbow...)

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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

Oh I know. I just respectfully disagree with the suggestion made in that post. I would use Full and an HDMI level of Normal only if I was a gamer, but I primarily stick to movies. The pros have said that for proper calibration you should stick with Limited and adjust accordingly.

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post #9993 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

I've been swapping emails with David Abrams @ Avical the last couple days. Apparently what all of us have been referring to as "convergence errors" on our LED DLP's while viewing grids and test patterns are actually what is called "chromatic aberrations". Not exactly the same thing and that is why they are usually not noticeable watching normal programming. I'm seriously considering having him do a calibration and focus adjustment on my set as he is doing a California "tour" in a couple weeks. Here's one explanation I found:

"In optics, chromatic aberration is caused by a lens having a different refractive index for different wavelengths of light (the dispersion of the lens)"

I'm on his schedule for first week of May
If you get yours done before me...PM me and give me some feedback
I have the 67" unit

Thanks
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post #9994 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 08:24 PM
 
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Originally Posted by asiandude View Post

I'm on his schedule for first week of May
If you get yours done before me...PM me and give me some feedback
I have the 67" unit

Thanks

Let us know how that goes. Just don't post the settings he applies in the service menu. It's ok to post calibration settings we've done ourselves, just not ones done by professionals. That would be bad form. Let's let them earn the money they deserve for all that hard work.
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post #9995 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

let us know how that goes. Just don't post the settings he applies in the service menu. It's ok to post calibration settings we've done ourselves, just not ones done by professionals. That would be bad form. Let's let them earn the money they deserve for all that hard work.

:d
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post #9996 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by labnpei View Post

hi guys i have a question for you-can a tv just be too big for a room? i got my 61" 750 yesterday and it looks enormous to me in my living room. i had a 46" sammy lcd in there that i put in my bedroom but i am worried that this tv is just too big for me. its not that it is a small room as it is 14x20 and open to the kitchen and dining room, but boy this tv just seems to overpower everything else. if i have to return it, my only other option in this price range is a 52" lcd which really isn't much larger than my old 46"-i feel like all i did was mess everything up. and don't give me the usual bigger is better argument-i just am at odds at what to do. i did get it at abt so i have 30 days to return it-maybe i will get used to it??

I really believe that you can not have a too big TV, growing from 55 to 65 and now a 67. Check out my small Home Theater Room Link below. (size is listed under one of the pictures) I also believe that in a bedroom you can not mount a TV too high on a wall either. Sure at first it may be overwhelming but you will get accustom to it as we all have. Enjoy and don't think about returning your new set!

Samsung HL67A750 RPTV, TWO 2013 Hoppers w/Sling, OTA Digital Dongle, My Book Essential 750Gb EXTERNAL hard drive, ONKYO HT-S9100 THX speakers & ONKYO TX-NR616 A/V receiver, ONKYO DV-BD606 Blu-Ray Disc Player, Harmony ONE Remote, GOOGLE TV, w 4 other TV's (LCD & LED).
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post #9997 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

Let us know how that goes. Just don't post the settings he applies in the service menu. It's ok to post calibration settings we've done ourselves, just not ones done by professionals. That would be bad form. Let's let them earn the money they deserve for all that hard work.


Are you kidding? Don't you think the calibrator would find it humorous people think they can take someone elses settings (tailored to his clients environment in all cases) and just apply them?

If anyone could do this then Samsung would have done it at the factory.

I think you should ask the calibrator if he minds if you share your service menu settings after calibration with others and if he gives you the green light then post away... I would love to compare the end result to what others have come up with...

I think it's a very bad idea for people to use hobbyist settings as if they were written gospel as well, but in spite of Lee's warning that seems to be exactly what happen with his settings. People are just going in, applying these tweaks without their own tools to anaylize before and after color results and without the proper know how to do it. For those with the tools can someone post their before (factory settings) and after (Lee's settings) so we can compare them to Lee's charts? That would prove me wrong.

Fact is, you buy one of these current generation LED Samsung's the one thing that seems universal in all pro reviews is the incredible color accuracy of these sets out of the box. Are they 100% perfect, no but if the 6500k is what you're after they come really close.
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post #9998 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rmz76 View Post

Are you kidding? Don't you think the calibrator would find it humorous people think they can take someone elses settings (tailored to his clients environment in all cases) and just apply them?

If anyone could do this then Samsung would have done it at the factory.

I think you should ask the calibrator if he minds if you share your service menu settings after calibration with others and if he gives you the green light then post away... I would love to compare the end result to what others have come up with...

I think it's a very bad idea for people to use hobbyist settings as if they were written gospel as well, but in spite of Lee's warning that seems to be exactly what happen with his settings. People are just going in, applying these tweaks without their own tools to anaylize before and after color results and without the proper know how to do it. For those with the tools can someone post their before (factory settings) and after (Lee's settings) so we can compare them to Lee's charts? That would prove me wrong.

Fact is, you buy one of these current generation LED Samsung's the one thing that seems universal in all pro reviews is the incredible color accuracy of these sets out of the box. Are they 100% perfect, no but if the 6500k is what you're after they come really close.

WOW I had to read that three times looking for the negative slant.....I just couldn't find it.....welcome...
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post #9999 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by WWIII View Post

WOW I had to read that three times looking for the negative slant.....I just couldn't find it.....welcome...

I would also like to take this opportunity to thanks to Lee and all of the others for this great forum....

thanks for a novice user


Wow post 10000....thats great news to see how much you guys take pride in this fourm and keep it current and usefull...
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post #10000 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 10:19 PM
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I've searched the thread and haven't seen this question answered for sure. Does this tv need a ups so the fan can run in case of a power outage?

If so, what do I need to look for in one and how big does it need to be?
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post #10001 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 10:39 PM
 
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Originally Posted by rmz76 View Post

Are you kidding? Don't you think the calibrator would find it humorous people think they can take someone elses settings (tailored to his clients environment in all cases) and just apply them?

If anyone could do this then Samsung would have done it at the factory.

I think you should ask the calibrator if he minds if you share your service menu settings after calibration with others and if he gives you the green light then post away... I would love to compare the end result to what others have come up with...

I think it's a very bad idea for people to use hobbyist settings as if they were written gospel as well, but in spite of Lee's warning that seems to be exactly what happen with his settings. People are just going in, applying these tweaks without their own tools to anaylize before and after color results and without the proper know how to do it. For those with the tools can someone post their before (factory settings) and after (Lee's settings) so we can compare them to Lee's charts? That would prove me wrong.

Fact is, you buy one of these current generation LED Samsung's the one thing that seems universal in all pro reviews is the incredible color accuracy of these sets out of the box. Are they 100% perfect, no but if the 6500k is what you're after they come really close.

You're making of yourself...again...
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post #10002 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 11:24 PM
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Works Great..

You can also use this image, (just copy from the PS3 and save the image or use a USB thumb drive and connect it to the TV)
http://psleng.dyndns.org/files/tv_test/grid.jpg

Save the image to your PS3

easy


http://sr-388.net/images/patterns/Brightness.jpg

Save this link to your PS3, then turn RGB to full.

If you can read it your tv supports rgb,

If you cant read it then it does not.

My mom works for Sony, and she brought home a copy of "Starhawk BETA"
I quickly slipped it into my trusty PS3, and started playing.


GOOZEX Game/Movie Exchange
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post #10003 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by asiandude View Post

after 2 weeks, you will think its just the right size...
:d

+1
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post #10004 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Yahwey View Post

I'm 2 days late for this, I know, but I'll chime in anyway.

The Sharp 65" at 1st looks like a better TV, with uniformed lighting, razor sharp, etc. But I know for a fact that these huge LCDs especially from Sharp have banding, phosphorous trailing and low res motion issues, with garbage looking SD.

I've said this before, as most people who are into video technology know, LCDs are better than DLPs for virtually anything else, but if you value high quality video, a high color gamut, and value for a huge screen, DLP is the way to go.

My 2nd choice would be plasma if I could stomach spending the extra 3 grand for a similar size as my screen, or a grand more for 9" smaller.

---But I'd never consider a current LCD at that size, unless I'm buying for a kiosk for static advertisements.

At the store, I never saw SD, and didn't notice any motion issues on the couple sports clips I saw, but I'll admit I wasn't looking for it. As for banding and phosphorus trailing, I'll have to take your word for it.

But you are right about the LCD's uniform lighting and razor sharpness. It really pops. WHen you look at the DLP off axis, especially from below, it looks horribly unevenly lit. Of course that goes away when you get on axis, but it is disconcerting at first.

It seems like there are tradeoffs for every technology available right now. It would be nice to have it all in a single package, but that does not seem possible just yet.

========================

I do want to say that this is a great thread. Lee and a lot of others have really put a lot of effort into it, and shared a lot of very useful info. I may seem like I'm a wet blanket for this TV, but I did want to share my first hand impressions to add to the conversation. Who knows, my in-laws are looking for an HDTV, maybe I can convince my wife to give them ours and I can pick up one of these. Now THAT might be worth the $1500 upgrade if I can make the wife and the in-laws happy.
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post #10005 of 15718 Old 03-06-2009, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

You're making of yourself...again...

Right, because it makes perfect sense that Samsung's engineers were less capable than someone toying around with a sub $500 color sensor without even being ISF calibrated.

and...

It makes perfect sense that ISF calibrators come out to a home as they work on your 61A750 they slowly build up some magical key map of settings that they hold ownership of (after you've paid them for this job).

So I'm being facetious of course... Ok, so I get it- you are holding my dispute of the 6500k standard over my head with every post I make. I had no intention of bringing this up again, but sense you've gone out of your way to attack my other recent post I'll reiterate: I pointed out that there was debate among the Scientist who came up with the 6500k standard to begin with and also that the Asian countries reject 6500k as a broadcast standard... Instead of any of that leading to a rational discussion I get blasted for mentioning the unthinkable (that the standard itself might could use some improvement). In spite of the earth being billions of years old it wasn't until about 500 years ago that 'Scientist' figured out the world was round. Isn't possible our color standards (create over the past 70 years or so) could stand some room for improvement or might be subject to error?

Putting all that aside, once again I try to make rational points and I get called names. This is why I don't like you and why I struggle to respect your point of view (don't worry, I'm quite aware the feeling is mutual) because I'm just looking for an intelligent, rational argument and I'm not getting it.
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post #10006 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 03:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickaren View Post

I really believe that you can not have a too big TV, growing from 55 to 65 and now a 67. Check out my small Home Theater Room Link below. (size is listed under one of the pictures) I also believe that in a bedroom you can not mount a TV too high on a wall either. Sure at first it may be overwhelming but you will get accustom to it as we all have. Enjoy and don't think about returning your new set!

hi, maybe i am judging too quickly so i will give it some more time. but, it just might be that i am not looking for the same type of experience that most of you guys on here are-i just want a tv that has a good picture-doesn't cost me an arm and a leg and is a decent size. i watch regular tv shows,a movie probably weekly and i love nfl football and some baseball games. i have basic digital cable-wish i knew how to hook up an ota antenna to this also though-i'm not into high tech-this tv seems to overpower my living room. tonight i am having my niece over to watch a movie so we will see what she thinks of it. she told me over the phone that she does not believe a tv can be too big just like all of you guys did. thanks guys
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post #10007 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 03:52 AM
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Wow the saga continues. I shall dub this the LED Wars,he he he.
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post #10008 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 05:52 AM
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Good morning. Lot of distension between jrcorwin and rmz76. FWIW I gave rmz76s settings a try. I verified the settings with DVE(BD version). I had to tweak the brightness and contrast a bit. Color through blue filter was good to go but red and green filters were off a bit more than my original settings. No worries though. I also turned down my LED to Low. I noticed the buzzing sound on my tv was lessened. So time to move on to program material. I watched Dick Tracy on standard def. I also have a making of book that has the photography stills that I can compare directly to the screen.I use this disc mainly because it employs a wide variety of colors and has a lot of dark scenes. Now from my observations. The image was very bright but also the black levels were very dark. I had decent facial detail on the characters but the flesh tones were flushed as if there was a hint of purple to them. Not terrible by any means but being that I have my original settings in mind and a reference photographs in the book, it is not as accurate as I would like. The black levels are nice but are so stark that I notice I am losing some object detail in the shadows. There is a scene where the Kid is hiding behind a 50 gallon drum. With rmz settings I can not detect the surface sheen of the barrel in the shadow. It is just black.

Now my hi def reference is the Blade Runner Final Cut on HD DVD. This once again uses a lot of nice colors and a plethora of dark scenes. Now rmzs settings fared better on this disc. However it is the close ups of characters faces where I have a challenge with. The details are lost especially on Leons and Pris's face. I get that Silk screen issue everyone talks about so I lose the fine details.

I am not trying to discredit rmz in any way. His settings are good for very bright rooms to be sure. I want more accurate if I can get it. I am aware that my findings are subjective which brings me to my point. You like what you like. You have to watch it so go with what makes you happy. My only gripe is with all this is, that movies are made using the d6500k standard rmz. The monitors used in editing and mastering are d6500k. Any tweaking to the image is done with d6500k as the reference. Is it wrong, who knows but it is the standard. That is all we have to go with. Does it mirror true life pictures? Nope. Tvs and displays can't mirror true life, they are just tvs. And the big factor, everyone sees differently. I know what you are saying. Conventional wisdom must be questioned periodically. However in this case little can be done to change a standard. So all that you can do is make it to your liking and roll with it. I am going to do the same. As far as 9300k, I am not finding a lot of info about it benefits, so please post those findings. And I see that you use the 3d portion of this tv. I am very interested in giving it a whirl so pm me about your experiences with that.

Cheers
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post #10009 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 05:58 AM
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Oooo....oooo....can I be Han Solo?

Let's see:

rmz76: Darth Maul or Jar Jar Binks?
Lee: Qui-Gon Jinn?
jrcorwin: OB1?
mike_pro: Luke Skywalker?
low_tech: Yoda?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel802 View Post

Wow the saga continues. I shall dub this the LED Wars,he he he.

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post #10010 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 06:07 AM
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No one drinking the Kool-Aid here...However, Lee's settings (with some minor UM tweaks for my individual set on one of the inputs) are significantly better then the factory settings for my viewing. And...it was free (not the $300+ for a stranger to come into your home and mess with your set--no offense to the good calibrators out there).

If you read many of the post-Lee's settings posts, many had to do additional UM tweaks from his settings...and Lee is OK with that per his initial SM settings post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmz76 View Post

Are you kidding? Don't you think the calibrator would find it humorous people think they can take someone elses settings (tailored to his clients environment in all cases) and just apply them?

If anyone could do this then Samsung would have done it at the factory.

I think you should ask the calibrator if he minds if you share your service menu settings after calibration with others and if he gives you the green light then post away... I would love to compare the end result to what others have come up with...

I think it's a very bad idea for people to use hobbyist settings as if they were written gospel as well, but in spite of Lee's warning that seems to be exactly what happen with his settings. People are just going in, applying these tweaks without their own tools to anaylize before and after color results and without the proper know how to do it. For those with the tools can someone post their before (factory settings) and after (Lee's settings) so we can compare them to Lee's charts? That would prove me wrong.

Fact is, you buy one of these current generation LED Samsung's the one thing that seems universal in all pro reviews is the incredible color accuracy of these sets out of the box. Are they 100% perfect, no but if the 6500k is what you're after they come really close.

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post #10011 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

Oooo....oooo....can I be Han Solo?

Let's see:

rmz76: Darth Maul or Jar Jar Binks?
Lee: Qui-Gon Jinn?
jrcorwin: OB1?
mike_pro: Luke Skywalker?
low_tech: Yoda?

Hummm, every pleased indeed, my wife is.
Line by line, from movie script, can quote every word, she can.

rmz76, Jaba the Hut, he is.

You can be Chewie, and Jrcorwin is Han Solo, I do think.

Not to be insulting, I am.

Thanks dude!

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10012 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 06:29 AM
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What exactly does the Film Mode 'auto1' option do? for cable broadcast and BD playback?
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post #10013 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by sandman_a_c View Post

I've searched the thread and haven't seen this question answered for sure. Does this tv need a ups so the fan can run in case of a power outage?

If so, what do I need to look for in one and how big does it need to be?


The fans turn off when the set turns off, so, NO, it does not need a UPS.
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post #10014 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

I've been swapping emails with David Abrams @ Avical the last couple days. Apparently what all of us have been referring to as "convergence errors" on our LED DLP's while viewing grids and test patterns are actually what is called "chromatic aberrations". Not exactly the same thing and that is why they are usually not noticeable watching normal programming. I'm seriously considering having him do a calibration and focus adjustment on my set as he is doing a California "tour" in a couple weeks. Here's one explanation I found:

"In optics, chromatic aberration is caused by a lens having a different refractive index for different wavelengths of light (the dispersion of the lens)"

This has been one of the theories right along with the focus adjustment making an improvement being a good supporting piece of evidence. I have spent a lot of money on "good glass" for my camera partially for this very reason (as have the lens manufacturers). The more out of focus, the more CA shows up, so it follows that a focus adjustment will help. Too bad Samsung chose what appears to be a cheap lens for this set...

If I go forward with a calibration (as in if I have a job and the economy is not totally in the tank), I will certainly have this done. However, in the meantime, I'll take a shot at focus myself as it looks pretty straight forward in the service manual (way easier than with my CRT 3 gun set which was a pain with three clamps and individual rotations). The only real hassle I see is loosening a circuit board and sliding it over to gain access to the focus wheel. I have a fully mirrored wall I can use, or I can use the technique of looking through the dust port hole at the inside surface of the screen (as pointed out by Lee).

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post #10015 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

Oooo....oooo....can I be Han Solo?

Let's see:

rmz76: Darth Maul or Jar Jar Binks?
Lee: Qui-Gon Jinn?
jrcorwin: OB1?
mike_pro: Luke Skywalker?
low_tech: Yoda?

Watch it.
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post #10016 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by sandman_a_c View Post

I've searched the thread and haven't seen this question answered for sure. Does this tv need a ups so the fan can run in case of a power outage?

If so, what do I need to look for in one and how big does it need to be?


This tv uses the least amount of power of any full sized tv ever made... at 150watts average, a good quality surge protector (Isobar, Tripp Lite, APC and others) that costs no less than $75.00 will work fine.

UPS is overkill and will not do much better. As a UPS is designed to be a backup power source when AC is down.

A power conditioner is what most if any Home Theater Specialist and Computer Specialist would recommend. They are more expensive as they truely work transparently.

To simplify the differences for your understanding, A UPS is designed for long duration power outage. What I mean by long duration, is that the AC power will be below operating standards for at least 1 second in duration. When the UPS switches, it does not truely filter or condition the output. Thus the output will be more dirty than a direct AC connection at normal voltages.

A line conditioner pumps out a clean signal all the time from its own power source. Think of it being your own power utility in a box. There are 5 parts to the conditioner.

A controler to montior AC input & AC output and battery charging & status.
A battery enclosure with status montor.
A charging power supply.
An output power supply.
A network management console.

Some may be designed in a single contained unit that is not very robust. Most are modular and very advanced.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10017 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 07:28 AM
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I have not done that as I don't have screen issues. I was wondering how many that attempted focus adjustment found it worth while.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10018 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 08:00 AM
 
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Let's just move on. I for one have grown tired of rmz's silly little arguments. He's on my ignore list now and I'm betting others may do this as well. His constant theatrics are getting in the way of the real discussions here.
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post #10019 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 08:14 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Hummm, every pleased indeed, my wife is.
Line by line, from movie script, can quote every word, she can.

rmz76, Jaba the Hut, he is.

You can be Chewie, and Jrcorwin is Han Solo, I do think.

Not to be insulting, I am.

Thanks dude!

Han Solo? Hmm...I like that. Now, where is Princess Leia in that bikini....
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post #10020 of 15718 Old 03-07-2009, 08:34 AM
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Has anybody bought one of these tv's from Amazon's 'Warehouse Deals'? I've been wanting one of these sets for a while now and, over the past couple of months, they seemed really hard to get. Amazon had 2 open-box sets on sale for just over $1100, shipped. So I pulled the trigger and bought both of them this morning.

In the description, both sets are said to have "small cosmetic damage on screen". I called customer service to see if they could be more specific about the damage, but they couldn't.

I figured I'd take a chance anyway. Amazon is awesome about returns and if I don't like the condition of either set, I can always return it to Amazon on their dime. I was just wondering if anyone here has bought a set from Amazon that had "small cosmetic damage on screen", and what specifically the damage was. I can handle a 1 inch scratch on a corner, but a 6 inch scratch in the middle wouldn't be as easy to ignore.
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