2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 337 - AVS Forum
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post #10081 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

Thanks Mike. When you get time, please PM me your original CCA settings for the R,G,B xyY settings. Also, did you set Gamma to (0)Film in the DDP3021 menu?

You're right about the Spyder2 accuracy. They are a mixed bag, though that is what started me on my journey(obsession?) into calibrating.

As for setting blue, you are using the Blue Mode in the menu, right? Blue filters themselves age over time, and so the Blue Mode is much more reliable.

On the Hitachi, one could turn on one color at a time, go into the service menus, and tweak. Worked very well. Oh well, Hitachi only makes LCDs and Plasmas TVs now.


I did a quick check in blue mode using the AVC HD disk. Colors are actually pretty close, except that the yellow bar (The second one from the left) does not disappear in blue mode. It is still a dark blue/purple color. So, I think the yellow is not quite right
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post #10082 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PAPOLUCA View Post

2nd time posting can i please get some feed back, thanks.

...

I did notice something, i am getting really dark blacks almost inky but they are too black.
When the scene is a close up of someone wearing a black suit you can see the details of their black suit; but i cant see the details on the colars of a suit if there is a room filled with individuals with black suits.

....

Iam using all of the most recent service menu options offered by this forum and i am using lee's settings.

Up your brightness then. Also, make sure black adjust if off. Even if it says it is, set it to low, then back to off.

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Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

With all of Lee's settings in place, I have had to bump up my brightness and contrast a few notches more than Lee's UM settings to not have the black crush on my HDMI 1/PS3 settings. I have not had to do this for the internal TV tuner settings (i.e., those are all at Lee's). FWIW: I have the 67'' model.

I watched Casino Royale on Blu-ray for the first time last night, and found the above adjustments best for the dark scenes.

AVS HD disc patterns for Brightness and Contrast via the PS3 keep bringing me back to Brightness 46 and Contrast 99 with all other settings at Lee's--including SM gamma at Film. Interestingly, when I switch to UM gamma -2, I can turn the UM Contrast down closer to 75, but real-world movie viewing brings me back to UM gamma "0" with the higher UM contrast.

Yeah, using the AVC HD disc, it wants me to max out my contrast as well. Didn't try it with different gamma setting. Need to do more viewing and play with contrast/brightness, but I think I am liking these SM settings for the most part.

Quote:
Originally Posted by heebdawg16 View Post

holy crap, a friend of mine just bought a 61A750 from our local best buy, 100% fully functional floor model, for $450.

I saw it with my own two eyes, and its absolutely perfect. Not a single cosmetic mark on it, absolutely perfect picture.

Ugh.

Wow, that's the deal of the century!
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post #10083 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

I think you may need to adjust the centering in the service menu. I have noted that my tv was off towards the left and down from factory. If you do not have a service manual, the first page of this thread will help you obtain one.


Does this require only going into the SM or do you need to open up the back of the TV? I do have the SM and can look for it later today...Off hand, do you remember what page?
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post #10084 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

I did a quick check in blue mode using the AVC HD disk. Colors are actually pretty close, except that the yellow bar (The second one from the left) does not disappear in blue mode. It is still a dark blue/purple color. So, I think the yellow is not quite right

I got the same results too. Everything looked good except yellow.
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post #10085 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddy_winds View Post

12/08
Production date
&
Very


Late dates = Best production dates

My .02
(ducks)

I'm happy for the money I spent as well. With normal programming these errors only have a very minor effect on the picture. It's only while viewing a test grid that they become obvious. Some of the owners here have probably never put a grid up and other's don't study and scrutinize the picture structure to the degree that some do. It just looked to me that possibly the few people that stated they had "perfect convergence" across their entire screen had purchased their sets earlier last year before this last batch of these sets were blown out at greatly discounted prices. That may not actually be the case.
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post #10086 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

I assume you did the old flexing of the black bezel trick to see if it helped? I know environmental conditions can alter these cabinets, and every so often I throw up the grid and push the frame a bit to get a good balance. If I remember correctly, 1/8th of an inch off or less is withing Samsung's specs.

How do you do this?
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post #10087 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:08 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Brent_A View Post

Does this require only going into the SM or do you need to open up the back of the TV? I do have the SM and can look for it later today...Off hand, do you remember what page?

Only the service menu. It's on page 4-22.
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post #10088 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

First and foremost...to each his own. I'm happy that everyone is trying these out and changing them to meet their needs.

However, I was curious about your Wall-E test so I checked it out for myself. I found that portion of the scene and changed to your contrast and brightness settings. I could see the additional detail you mentioned, but also noticed a problem. If you look at the behavior of EVE and Wall-E...it appears to me that it was supposed to be near pitch black when that door closed. Her reaction to the dark and then her reaction when Wall-E turns the lights on makes more sense with dark settings (contrast 75 and brightness of 42) in my opinion. With the higher settings it doesn't make the room dark enough to fit that reaction. Only my opinion of course. Glad you found settings tailored to what you like.

Yeah I also thought about that too.. that it probably is supposed to be pitch black (hence why it's a cool effect when Eve "sneezes"). But also, think about how the movie was made. It's not like a movie that was filmed somewhere where there are thousands of details, it's a CGI movie, so I'm assuming that the people who made it put those little details in there on purpose.
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post #10089 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:11 AM
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I only have Wall-E on DVD (up-scaled via PS3), but tried it anyway. I got the same results as both of you indicated. I see jrcorwin's point, but given the other movies I've viewed (Dark Knight, Iron Man, and Casino Royale) since the SM changes, I've had the best real-world viewing results with the higher brightness and contrast (i.e., no black crush) UM settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

First and foremost...to each his own. I'm happy that everyone is trying these out and changing them to meet their needs.

However, I was curious about your Wall-E test so I checked it out for myself. I found that portion of the scene and changed to your contrast and brightness settings. I could see the additional detail you mentioned, but also noticed a problem. If you look at the behavior of EVE and Wall-E...it appears to me that it was supposed to be near pitch black when that door closed. Her reaction to the dark and then her reaction when Wall-E turns the lights on makes more sense with dark settings (contrast 75 and brightness of 42) in my opinion. With the higher settings it doesn't make the room dark enough to fit that reaction. Only my opinion of course. Glad you found settings tailored to what you like.

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post #10090 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

"It components are from April 2008 bin, production date October 2008"

That's pretty much what I figured. Most of us with the major errors have 12/08 or 1/09 production dates.

Are you sure about the above statement? I have a 12/31/08 production date and none of the issues mentioned...

I thought from the posts I've seen that the newer models have had less issues....

Exitus acta probat...
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post #10091 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

Nope.


Well I'm watching the Bruins/Rangers game on NBC in HD and I can definitely see the 4x3 non-HD sidebar burn-in on mine. So either I have burn-in or NBC/MSG is putting out a crappy picture . . . . . .
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post #10092 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:15 AM
 
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Originally Posted by whateveryo View Post

Yeah I also thought about that too.. that it probably is supposed to be pitch black (hence why it's a cool effect when Eve "sneezes"). But also, think about how the movie was made. It's not like a movie that was filmed somewhere where there are thousands of details, it's a CGI movie, so I'm assuming that the people who made it put those little details in there on purpose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

I only have Wall-E on DVD (up-scaled via PS3), but tried it anyway. I got the same results as both of you indicated. I see jrcorwin's point, but given the other movies I've viewed (Dark Knight, Iron Man, and Casino Royale) since the SM changes, I've had the best real-world viewing results with the higher brightness and contrast (i.e., no black crush) UM settings.

What do you guys have your gamma set to within the DDP3021 menu?
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post #10093 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

I did a quick check in blue mode using the AVC HD disk. Colors are actually pretty close, except that the yellow bar (The second one from the left) does not disappear in blue mode. It is still a dark blue/purple color. So, I think the yellow is not quite right

If memory serves, you'll notice in the Gamut charts that yellow is pulled by red and green. It BETTER NOT disappear in BLUE ONLY Mode. Cyan and Magenta should disappear. That's why the flashing squares are in them.
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post #10094 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Godzilla1964 View Post

Well I'm watching the Bruins/Rangers game on NBC in HD and I can definitely see the 4x3 non-HD sidebar burn-in on mine. So either I have burn-in or NBC/MSG is putting out a crappy picture . . . . . .

Cannot burn in DLP....

Exitus acta probat...
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post #10095 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:15 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Godzilla1964 View Post

Well I'm watching the Bruins/Rangers game on NBC in HD and I can definitely see the 4x3 non-HD sidebar burn-in on mine. So either I have burn-in or NBC/MSG is putting out a crappy picture . . . . . .

It's NBC. I noticed the same thing earlier. It happens from time to time.
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post #10096 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

What do you guys have your gamma set to within the DDP3021 menu?

I have mine set to [0] Film. I had it on [4] OEM with the 75 Contrast and 43 Brightness until I changed it to Film.
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post #10097 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:21 AM
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It's been discussed here by others early on. With the grid up, just press a little on the upper right corner of the frame of your set (not the screen though). You will be able to see how it affects the pattern. Assuming no serious problems, you can get the grid pretty spot on by this method.

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Originally Posted by Brent_A View Post

How do you do this?

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post #10098 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:25 AM
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It's the latter. "HD" broadcasts vary so much, and it always amazes me that they are allowed to call "HD".

If memory serves me correctly....it's impossible to have burn-in on this set due to the wobulating chip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla1964 View Post

Well I'm watching the Bruins/Rangers game on NBC in HD and I can definitely see the 4x3 non-HD sidebar burn-in on mine. So either I have burn-in or NBC/MSG is putting out a crappy picture . . . . . .

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post #10099 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:27 AM
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Same here.

Whateveryo....do you have the 67'' or 61"...I'm wondering if any differences could be in the sizes as jrcorwin and Lee have the 61''?

Quote:
Originally Posted by whateveryo View Post

I have mine set to [0] Film. I had it on [4] OEM with the 75 Contrast and 43 Brightness until I changed it to Film.

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post #10100 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BATman94 View Post

Same here.

Whateveryo....do you have the 67'' or 61"...I'm wondering if any differences could be in the sizes as jrcorwin and Lee have the 61''?

I have the 61". Although I do wish I had the 67"
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post #10101 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkazepis View Post

Are you sure about the above statement? I have a 12/31/08 production date and none of the issues mentioned...

I thought from the posts I've seen that the newer models have had less issues....

Read my last post- up a few posts^

It looks like I'm just extremely unlucky to have received 2 different sets from Crutchfield with 12/08 and 1/09 production dates respectively that exhibit almost the exact same chromatic aberration errors.
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post #10102 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

It's NBC. I noticed the same thing earlier. It happens from time to time.


I'll watch the next Hockey game tomorrow night on VS and seewhat it looks like . . . .
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post #10103 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 12:09 PM
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Well, I guess screen size is not the factor then...just individual differences in each set (and personal preferences I suppose).

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Originally Posted by whateveryo View Post

I have the 61". Although I do wish I had the 67"

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post #10104 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

Are you considering buying one or do you already have one? My answer will differ depending on your answer.

Yes I already have one. Didn't know that answers will defer depending on the status of my ownership

Eagerly awaiting your feedback.
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post #10105 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 12:48 PM
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How does one go about getting the 3d option working? I was looking into getting a 3d system from I believe a company called ddd. From the samsung manual looks like you need a computer hooked up with the 3d converter then to the tv but I am not sure therefore the question. Anyone who has gotten the 3d working let me know how you did it. Thank you.
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post #10106 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 12:54 PM
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Is everyone going by the Seriel Number entry on Samsungs site for production date?

If so you may be going the wrong route in actually knowing what dates are on your parts.

As parts are stocked and pulled during sub assembly.

Some bins are well stocked and others depend on supplier batch shipment.

I assume the Lens assembly is one part of many that may be limited order and reordered in limited quanity as needed.

I stated that I have parts from 04/08 though I do not know if all parts fall into the same date range.

Since I purchased mine early 4th quarter, it is possible that in that time frame newer assembled parts were being trickled into part of production. As I do not think any of these TV's would have been in production after January 09.

I know for a fact if Samsung uses a limited production item to produce a product, they will outsource. So to plainly state, at any time durring 12/08 some or many LED DLP TVs may have a Lens that was not of the same batch that was originally ordered.

Oh, by the way 2008 LED DLP TV's are the minority of all TVs for 2008. So don't expect every little part in every 2008 LED DLP to be from the same provider or batch.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10107 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

I did a quick check in blue mode using the AVC HD disk. Colors are actually pretty close, except that the yellow bar (The second one from the left) does not disappear in blue mode. It is still a dark blue/purple color. So, I think the yellow is not quite right

Although I realize the color temp won't please you guys... wanted to add that I used Joe Kane's Digital Video Essentials HD Basics color test (using the supplied tri-color filter to check color decode accuracy). With just factory service menu settings I was able to get red, green and blue filters to match near perfect to his samples... in Standard mode with Normal color settings.... In Movie Mode using Warm 2, I was able to get Blue and Green just as good, but on Red it didn't fair as welll...

On my 67A750 I have something tangible now to show that out-of-the-box the color decoding/balancing (which I know has nothing to do with color temp) is much better in Standard mode... I don't know if this is true for the 61A750, I'm sure the settings will be slightly different, but the CNet reviewer seemed to observe the same issue with Red as his adjustments were similar to mine and he commented on reds needing some tweaking.

For those who do not want to apply service menu tweaks, the imbalance of color decoding in Movie Mode is something to consider. My updated settings are in the 67A750 owners thread, will not post them here because I don't think they are applicable to the 61A750, but again the CNet reviewer leads me to believe the color decoding issue on Movie mode may be applicable to both models.
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post #10108 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lriker View Post

How does one go about getting the 3d option working? I was looking into getting a 3d system from I believe a company called ddd. From the samsung manual looks like you need a computer hooked up with the 3d converter then to the tv but I am not sure therefore the question. Anyone who has gotten the 3d working let me know how you did it. Thank you.

Yes, you need a Home Theater PC and not just any Windows PC will work there are minimum requirements....

I put togeather an DLP 3D FAQ which you can view here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1114654
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post #10109 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heebdawg16 View Post

holy crap, a friend of mine just bought a 61A750 from our local best buy, 100% fully functional floor model, for $450.

I saw it with my own two eyes, and its absolutely perfect. Not a single cosmetic mark on it, absolutely perfect picture.

Ugh.

That's pretty awesome. Any idea how many hours are on the set? I'd still be wary of floor models, but good for your mate.
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post #10110 of 15706 Old 03-08-2009, 02:27 PM
 
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Originally Posted by avsscientist View Post

Yes I already have one. Didn't know that answers will defer depending on the status of my ownership

Eagerly awaiting your feedback.

Well, everything I have heard is about how hard it can be to calibrate for them because of the strange things they do with the image. I asked if you own one because I don't want to seem as if I'm bashing the unit. I've read that most of its picture control should just be left off for a more accurate picture. Also, the picture can be too sharp with a high degree of edge enhancement with the XDE apparently.

I would leave those more advanced options off, set the TV to warm 1 or 2, and use an SD calibration DVD to set the brightness and contrast to appropriate levels. Then adjust color. Good luck.
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