2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 340 - AVS Forum
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post #10171 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by heebdawg16 View Post

I just sold my HL-S5687W DLP three weeks ago for $950 (lol), and was planning to buy either a plasma or lcd to wallmount in our new house. However, now my wife is telling me a 50" TV is too small, she loved the 56" and wishes it was even bigger. Go figure, a woman telling a man she wants something to be bigger

Anyways, after much research and deliberation between the various faults of LCD and Plasma, I decided maybe I want a DLP back after all. But from reading this thread, it sounds like you are all having a ton of failures with the 61A750? Now I am puzzled again. I figured with no color wheel or bulb to replace, it would be much more reliable than my old set.




Yea the no color wheel and light bulb to replace is what got me to buy this tv. But after being on this site and reading I'm just not sure about my purchase. There is a guy on here that needs a new main board, its under warranty, but they can't find parts for his tv to fix it. I think he has gone 5 weeks now waiting for parts. If I knew that I would have NOT bought this tv!!! DLP is a dead horse, in my oppinion you would be better off buying something else, I know most on here love their tv's, but im affraid that in time were all going to be going out to buy new tv's because these xa750's broke and can't find parts. FWIW I'd rather be sitting watching a 52" LCD for several years than watching a 61" for just a year or two!!!
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post #10172 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:22 AM
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Sorry to bring this up, as there are too many so called master threads on this TV or have mixed this TV with other models.

One in particular is the 650/750 thread, and this thread kind of mixes the 61 and 67 though it says HL61A750.

Also a number of users do not state their screen size as it does make a difference in Service Manual adjustments.

Though you can never have too much information, it is that too many are quickly using cross informing users without understanding the details. For example, many point to focus when focus may not be an issue.

Just venting for now.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10173 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by johnabis View Post

For me I'm wondering If i fell in that 10% of defective units twice... I originally got my TV from amazon. I returned it because I noticed I was getting jagged/choppy motion from slow moving objects. A good example is the Gatorade "G" commercial. the people in the commercial will look choppy going right to left. its hard to explain.

Also sometimes even scrolling text on ESPN won't be clear. it will appear choppy.

I sent the TV to amazon and got the same model in exchange.. same thing happens. Any suggestions? any one else experience this?

Also data stream limitations can cause issues like that, as depending on upconversion, and the number of channels being pushed in a squeezed bandwidth.

Also the default sharpness value at least needs to be at 20 for good picture.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10174 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

Does anybody's rebate status show anything farther along in the process than this:

"Your JANUARY NFLSHOP.COM OFFER offer was received on 2/19/2009 , processed on 2/23/2009 and is pending Final Audit."




I'm hanging in the final audit limbo as well since mid feb. I did a google search on checkmyrebate.com and didn't like what I read! Sounds like we might be in for a long wait....check out this complaint websight...

https://post.complaints.com/original_id/148119
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post #10175 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Yahwey View Post

for those curious about tilt / focus adjusting and other such matters - blurb from the 650/750 forum

Originally Posted by donb1948 View Post
Any of you owners purchased a Service Manual for either the XXA750 or XXA650? Does it describe any of the following: Tilt Adjustment, Ring Focus or Actuator Adjustment. These items were described in the Service Manuals for the HL-R and HL-S series Samsungs but I did not follow the HL-T threads sufficiently to learn whether these items were still in the those models.

Tilt Adjustment was used to remove the slant or tilt of the display. Using the service menu, a hatch pattern was projected on the screen and the DMD unit was physically moved to take the tilt out of the picture. This required removing the back of the display. The job was a real PITA, optimally requiring two people (a spotter and an adjuster with the adjuster having three hands). This adjustment would not remove bowing.

Eliab once mentioned that the majority of the HL-R and HL-S sets that he calibrated had a mis-adjusted Ring Focus from the factory. If the Ring Ficus is out of adjustment, the picture will not appear as sharp or clear as it should. Lines can be slightly fuzzy. (This is not the same as "edge" sharpening.) The Ring Focus adjustment is also a physical adjustment that required an internal pattern, two people (an adjuster and a spotter) and removing the back of the display. It was much easier to do than the Tilt Adjustment.

The Actuator Ajustment was a form of focus adjustment for the DMD (not technically correct but that was the effect). This adjustment required using the Actuator Gain parameter in the service menu to sharpen up one of two internally generated patterns. One of the patterns included sharpening four red, blue, green and white crosses which has me wondering whether this could be contributing to the faux convergence issue. (I say "faux" because these sets do not suffer the usually convergence issue resulting from path differences using three light sources or split beams. They still could have "convergence" issues due to differences in the refractive index of the optical components for difference frequencies of light but I'd assume (hope) that Samsung uses coated optics to minimize this.)

All of these adjustments could be made by the owner (and I have done them on my old HL-R) but with new sets such as these, I'd have a tech in to do it (e.g., could invalidate your warranty).

Again, I do not know whether any of these adjustments exist for the XXA750 and XXA650 series but if anyone has a Service Manual (and assuming that unlike some manufacturers, Samsung continues to put useful info in the service manual), it's easy to check. FWIW.


I believe all of those adjustments are available on our sets.
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post #10176 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gmb2428 View Post

Yea the no color wheel and light bulb to replace is what got me to buy this tv. But after being on this site and reading I'm just not sure about my purchase. There is a guy on here that needs a new main board, its under warranty, but they can't find parts for his tv to fix it. I think he has gone 5 weeks now waiting for parts. If I knew that I would have NOT bought this tv!!! DLP is a dead horse, in my oppinion you would be better off buying something else, I know most on here love their tv's, but im affraid that in time were all going to be going out to buy new tv's because these xa750's broke and can't find parts. FWIW I'd rather be sitting watching a 52" LCD for several years than watching a 61" for just a year or two!!!

Now now, calm down. Take a deep breath, count to 98765 and think of chickens

1. Dlp is a dead horse, ok, but so is CRT and very soon, Plasma, that doesn't take away the fine benefits over LCD they provide.

2. This is a major recession, which some people seem to conveniently forget. This means that manufacturing plants have drastically slowed production, so there will be a wait on parts regardless.

3. If you think that Samsung LCDs are more reliable than their DLPs, you're high. Read the Samsung LCD forums, you'll find more folks there having hardware issues than on here.
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post #10177 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

I believe all of those adjustments are available on our sets.

Mike, I know they are as I was the first to say that I confirmed doing the adjustment. I found about a 10% variance to what Samsung factory settings are to optimal. I had to adjust not only Actuator gain, but V and H centering.

Just about every adjustment COULD be off by a setting or 2 (+ or - 10%).

Mike, as to your master thread, you should make a new Definitive Master Thread with no replies, just updated information you add your self. As there is a lot that covers issues and what we did to correct. If you have not already noticed there is a lot of Ya, Ya, Ya going around.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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Originally Posted by Yahwey View Post

Now now, calm down. Take a deep breath, count to 98765 and think of chickens

1. Dlp is a dead horse, ok, but so is CRT and very soon, Plasma, that doesn't take away the fine benefits over LCD they provide.

2. This is a major recession, which some people seem to conveniently forget. This means that manufacturing plants have drastically slowed production, so there will be a wait on parts regardless.

3. If you think that LCDs are more reliable than their DLPs, you're high. Read the Samsung LCD forums, you'll find more folks there having hardware issues than on here.

Haha....think of chickens.
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post #10179 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:42 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Mike, I know they are as I was the first to say that I confirmed doing the adjustment. I found about a 10% variance to what Samsung factory settings are to optimal. I had to adjust not only Actuator gain, but V and H centering.

Just about every adjustment COULD be off by a setting or 2 (+ or - 10%).

Mike, as to your master thread, you should make a new Definitive Master Thread with no replies, just updated information you add your self. As there is a lot that covers issues and what we did to correct. If you have not already noticed there is a lot of Ya, Ya, Ya going around.

Just because my own memory is shaky on this. You performed certain functions, but not the focus adjustment...correct?
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post #10180 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahwey View Post

Now now, calm down. Take a deep breath, count to 98765 and think of chickens

1. Dlp is a dead horse, ok, but so is CRT and very soon, Plasma, that doesn't take away the fine benefits over LCD they provide.

2. This is a major recession, which some people seem to conveniently forget. This means that manufacturing plants have drastically slowed production, so there will be a wait on parts regardless.

3. If you think that Samsung LCDs are more reliable than their DLPs, you're high. Read the Samsung LCD forums, you'll find more folks there having hardware issues than on here.

There always will be nay sayers no matter how good things are. Some just like to complain.

I was one of many who found that Samsung will change model internals and specifications once production gets going. Though Samsung is not the only one doing this. It seems the norm for manufacturers to send out the best for reviews and sell something slightly less than what was pitched.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10181 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

I believe all of those adjustments are available on our sets.

Sooner or later one of us is going to have to attempt these manual adjustments. There are quite a few here that are going into the service mode and changing their settings like nobody's business, however I don't recall anybody making any manual adjustments on their set. Since my second unit's HDMI inputs are failing, (the HDMI #3 is now dropping out along with #1) my only option is to return it to Crutchfield and keep my first set which has a counter clockwise tilt of about 1/4 inch.
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post #10182 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by eddy_winds View Post

Has a Tech looked at either one of these two TV sets...

Nope, but i may have to go that route. just wanted some opinions to see if there was anything I can try before calling samsung
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post #10183 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Mike, I know they are as I was the first to say that I confirmed doing the adjustment. I found about a 10% variance to what Samsung factory settings are to optimal. I had to adjust not only Actuator gain, but V and H centering.

Just about every adjustment COULD be off by a setting or 2 (+ or - 10%).

Mike, as to your master thread, you should make a new Definitive Master Thread with no replies, just updated information you add your self. As there is a lot that covers issues and what we did to correct. If you have not already noticed there is a lot of Ya, Ya, Ya going around.

I stand corrected-Somebody here has made some manual adjustments. Did you perform the tilt and focus adjustments as well?
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post #10184 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

Just because my own memory is shaky on this. You performed certain functions, but not the focus adjustment...correct?

Once I did everything I could through the menus... found focus was a moot point. As my graphic images/ video picture are sharp.

As with anything that needs adjusting once you adjust something that may affect another you must adjust again.

So it is posible that a re-focus can help... but gaining 5% may not make the difference in picture quality, and I will have to open the TV. I am just too lazy to do it for little or no gain.

Maybe when I decide to tweak a delay (cap or resistor) for reset, to allow video to reset quicker when inputs are selected. I will take the time to do the focus adjustment.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10185 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahwey View Post

Now now, calm down. Take a deep breath, count to 98765 and think of chickens

1. Dlp is a dead horse, ok, but so is CRT and very soon, Plasma, that doesn't take away the fine benefits over LCD they provide.

2. This is a major recession, which some people seem to conveniently forget. This means that manufacturing plants have drastically slowed production, so there will be a wait on parts regardless.

3. If you think that Samsung LCDs are more reliable than their DLPs, you're high. Read the Samsung LCD forums, you'll find more folks there having hardware issues than on here.



Well I will admit that I have not researched samsung LCD tv's, what I will say is I always regarded Samsung electronics as junk bottom of the barrel components. I only bought this tv because of the no light and color wheel issues, and they were the only ones using LEDS. I sure ain't gonna buy a samsung BDP. I'll buy the new sony. I just don't think samsung is good quality! So maybe that's why the LCD's are junk to.
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post #10186 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

Sooner or later one of us is going to have to attempt these manual adjustments. There are quite a few here that are going into the service mode and changing their settings like nobody's business, however I don't recall anybody making any manual adjustments on their set. Since my second unit's HDMI inputs are failing, (the HDMI #3 is now dropping out along with #1) my only option is to return it to Crutchfield and keep my first set which has a counter clockwise tilt of about 1/4 inch.

Tilt is the easiest of the mechanical adjustments (though sensitive IE: a little movement of the board makes a big adjustment). Focus is only harder because you have to loosen and slide a circuit board out of the way to reach the focus wheel. Both require removing the back and being able to see a grid on the screen either via a mirror, a 2nd person spotting for you, or peering through the dust port to see the inside surface of the screen.

I am taking Friday off to do some maintenance on my boat. If time allows, I intend to do the focus adjustment on my 67. If that happens, I'll certainly post about it and how it effected both the focus and the chromatic aberration issue (apparent convergence).

WARNING: Anyone removing the back of their set and doing these adjustments be fully aware of what you're touching in there. These adjustments are made with the set powered up. We don't want to read about someone being electrocuted in here...

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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

I am just too lazy to do it for little or no gain.

I know the feeling.
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post #10188 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:54 AM
 
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Well I will admit that I have not researched samsung LCD tv's, what I will say is I always regarded Samsung electronics as junk bottom of the barrel components. I only bought this tv because of the no light and color wheel issues, and they were the only ones using LEDS. I sure ain't gonna buy a samsung BDP. I'll buy the new sony. I just don't think samsung is good quality! So maybe that's why the LCD's are junk to.

Then you won't be happy with a Sony either. Let's just say that with Sony...you aren't paying more for better build quality.
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post #10189 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

I stand corrected-Somebody here has made some manual adjustments. Did you perform the tilt and focus adjustments as well?

No... I have a perfect picture... maybe 1% off on tilt but cannot tell without measuring with a square and plumb line.

Though I had issues like what many have stated with picture tilt, after making sure my tv had 4 corner leveling done, and performing the upper corner twist to settle in the screen. The picture alignment became moot.

Am I the only one that notices that the TV's stand is center mounted (Though it looks as if it is mounted at the corners), as being a bit top heavy, I can clearly see the picture tilt if I should lift one corner below the stand.

The weakest part of this tv is that the frame is not sturdy one bit. Maybe I'll add improving the structural sturdyness, when and if I descide to start modifying.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10190 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:56 AM
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Then you won't be happy with a Sony either. Let's just say that with Sony...you aren't paying more for better build quality.


+1 ... I have owned my last Sony anything.

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post #10191 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahwey View Post

A.) Hey, fight the power!!
Martin Luther King, Malcolm X, JFK, Lincoln, Gandhi, and Jesus were ridiculed and killed off, while trying to make the world a better place, that's just how we humans are.
Regardless, I said once before that you could be the one finding the Holy Grail of settings for this TV.

B.) I think I disagree that the 67" intentionally uses a different color decorder than the 61". If there is a difference, I believe it has more to do with the different suppliers supplying the same component than anything else, which may cause slight variances even between the same model number.

I was told the light engine in the units were the same... if that's true it just shows the variance between your 61A750, Mike Pro's 61A750 and Lee Baily's 61A750... This is no big surprise and I doubt I'll get a lot of disagreement on this point, it also shows how unwise it is to use someone eleses service menu settings without having some tool to measure the results.

Digital Video Essentials is designed so an amateur can calibrate their set to the best of the sets abilities outside service menu tweaks. After a pro calibration you should have the benefit of proper color balance at 6500k... Well, out of the box with my 67A750 I could get proper color balance at the cooler temp (Standard mode) but I have to sacrifice that balance for the warmer temp that's closer to standard... Unlike some my past arguments, this is something any non-color blind person can test with a Joe Kane's tri-color filter and by adjusting the Tint control on the TV...

When it comes to 6500k color being the best choice, well I believe my view has been skewed by the inconsistency among the pro ISF calibratied displays I've seen. Proving that ISF calibrators can be a bit like the barber- but once he's done it doesn't grow back When you combine this with am abundance of want-to-be non-certified calibrators fueling stream of advice, all with egos (myself not excluded) trying to push their points things get very overwhelming. Even the CNET reviewer points readers to Movie Mode Warm 2 without mentioning the superior color balance of Standard mode using factory service menu settings.... That's because he's on the same quest everyone seems to be, pursue near 6500k (US broadcast standard gray scale) at all cost... Shouldn't have your color balanced be at least as important? And if you are not going to enter the service menu then what trade off are you going to decide to make and recommend to others!

These are important questions I think that get lost. A good number of us want to follow the advise of the manufacturer and stay out of the service menu or we don't trust using others settings blindly. I hope my most recent settings help those people. While gray scale accuracy for broadcast standards are different around the world, color balance is non subjective. That should tell you which is more important


ISF calibrators seem much more open minded on this. They will not concede the accuracy of the 6500K standard and the importance of trying to get there, but most of the ones I talked to were also realistic about trade offs people might have to make.... Personally I don't see how anyone would sacrifice color balance to get closer to proper color temp, but to each his own I guess. Through my own diagnostics (no help to anyone here) the color imbalance on the Move/Warm 2 setting seem to be what was causing my reference points to be off. My comments about the sky not looking right, pictures of ice caps and polar bears being clearly off... The reason why was confirmed for me. My solution is either pro calibration -or- use Standard mode. Through out all my ranting, no one here reasoned this and recommended what the problem might be or why I might be perciving Standard mode to be more accurate. The distinguish between proper color balance and proper color temperature was never proposed... If it's true Move/Warm 2 is closer to the US broadcast standard then they are not synonymous.


The red issues on Move/Warm 2 can be adjusted through service menu, but Lee Baily's settings don't get me there and that means they might not get you there or others here there either. All of this says nothing about Lee's abilities to measure color or the accuracy of his test (all performed solely on his display), it's just important to know it's not going to be the Holly Grail for everyone and could (as in my case) get you further from the mark in terms of RGB balance.

This will be the third time I've said this, but it seems like someone else here could take some color measurements and generate the same charts Lee has been posting to show just how well his settings transfer from one display to another....

For those with Digital Video Essentials I would be curious to see how close their color decoder is working to mine, if someone would be willing to go back to factory service menu settings and give my settings a try... I wonder what kind of difference we're looking at set to set.
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post #10192 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gmb2428 View Post

Well I will admit that I have not researched samsung LCD tv's, what I will say is I always regarded Samsung electronics as junk bottom of the barrel components. I only bought this tv because of the no light and color wheel issues, and they were the only ones using LEDS. I sure ain't gonna buy a samsung BDP. I'll buy the new sony. I just don't think samsung is good quality! So maybe that's why the LCD's are junk to.

Since the 80's Samsung has always produced great TV and CRT at low cost. Though they are not Sony, the level of quality components are dictated by the use of mainstream consumer intergrated electronics.

Oh, by the way every manufacturer makes junk... it depends on when you get rid of it or sell on ebay.

It looks like I will be adding more to my ignore list, as it is too windy for me.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10193 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:01 AM
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There is a guy on here that needs a new main board, its under warranty, but they can't find parts for his tv to fix it. I think he has gone 5 weeks now waiting for parts.

Where did he buy the TV...
What were his follow ups? (Bug Samsung, the Tech, were he bought it from)
Was there any other options given other than the month wait?

You "think he has gone 5 weeks"

My mom works for Sony, and she brought home a copy of "Starhawk BETA"
I quickly slipped it into my trusty PS3, and started playing.


GOOZEX Game/Movie Exchange
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post #10194 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:04 AM
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I was one of many who found that Samsung will change model internals and specifications once production gets going. Though Samsung is not the only one doing this. It seems the norm for manufacturers to send out the best for reviews and sell something slightly less than what was pitched.

reviewers and early adopters gets the closest to the original specifications with homegrown QA/QCed manufactured parts.

During a life cycle of a product, especially a successful one, competition appears, and coupled with market depreciation forces the manufacturer to outsource for cheaper alternatives, perhaps even be forced to change specifications to further reduce costs.

Most of us who bought toward the end of this 750's life cycle got a very nice deal especially compared to the early buyers, so there's bound to be some compromises, of which are insignificant for this product's primary purpose - to watch real and glorious HD movies/games on a big luscious screen.

A 15 month warranty and a 61/67" for the same cost as a 52" should make recent owners very happy they got it before they disappeared rather than whine about the what ifs...
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post #10195 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:07 AM
 
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When exactly was this display first sold? Mine is from August.
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post #10196 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahwey View Post

reviewers and early adopters gets the closest to the original specifications with homegrown QA/QCed manufactured parts.

During a life cycle of a product, especially a successful one, competition appears, and coupled with market depreciation forces the manufacturer to outsource for cheaper alternatives, perhaps even be forced to change specifications to further reduce costs.

Most of us who bought toward the end of this 750's life cycle got a very nice deal especially compared to the early buyers, so there's bound to be some compromises, of which are insignificant for this product's primary purpose - to watch real and glorious HD movies/games on a big luscious screen.

A 15 month warranty and a 61/67" for the same cost as a 52" should make recent owners very happy they got it before they disappeared rather than whine about the what ifs...

Humm... maybe you did not read a few pages back, as you are repeating me, though your takeing costs into the matter.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10197 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

No... I have a perfect picture... maybe 1% off on tilt but cannot tell without measuring with a square and plumb line.

Though I had issues like what many have stated with picture tilt, after making sure my tv had 4 corner leveling done, and performing the upper corner twist to settle in the screen. The picture alignment became moot.

Am I the only one that notices that the TV's stand is center mounted (Though it looks as if it is mounted at the corners), as being a bit top heavy, I can clearly see the picture tilt if I should lift one corner below the stand.

The weakest part of this tv is that the frame is not sturdy one bit. Maybe I'll add improving the structural sturdyness, when and if I descide to start modifying.

Yes the structure is on the weak side. If you have a set that's tilted more than 1/8 inch, pushing the frame is not going to permanently correct the misalignment. Once you have your set on it's final resting place and wiggle the set back and forth to settle it, it is what it is so I have found.
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post #10198 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

When exactly was this display first sold? Mine is from August.

Like I said a page or two ago... Mine was made in Sept, though the main board is an April part. Other parts or components may be from other batches. As some sub-components are used in batch ordering, the supplier may change or substitute for lack of availability. As you get near the end of manufacture date, components and parts are ordered as limited quanity batches if needed.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #10199 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jrcorwin View Post

Then you won't be happy with a Sony either. Let's just say that with Sony...you aren't paying more for better build quality.




Well im just going by past experience, my last tv, a sony 36" WEGA XBR lasted for 12 years with no repairs or issues. I sold it in december and its still going strong. I hope sony hasn't gone to hell as well since I bought that tv. It's really starting to look like all consumer electronics are not being made the way they used to be!
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post #10200 of 15706 Old 03-09-2009, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddy_winds View Post

Where did he buy the TV...
What were his follow ups? (Bug Samsung, the Tech, were he bought it from)
Was there any other options given other than the month wait?

You "think he has gone 5 weeks"



He last posted that he couldn't use his hdmi inputs, and had been waiting for weeks for parts. The posts are probaby a couple weeks back, haven't heard from him since...so I don't know the details.
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