2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 503 - AVS Forum
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post #15061 of 15706 Old 04-09-2012, 09:47 AM
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That's a much more reasonable price. Thanks Low Tech.
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post #15062 of 15706 Old 04-09-2012, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

Optoma-ZD201[/url]

I hope to get a pair of the ZD201 as soon as they are available.

Despite that, had already ordered a pair of SainSonic DLP-Link glasses. They are so inexpensive, rechargeable, and have been rated well.

Supposedly they perform reliably and have decent optics. They are due for delivery today.
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post #15063 of 15706 Old 04-09-2012, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ChronoMATT View Post

Please allow me a possible silly question since I am new to using 3D on my Samsung 750. I recently purchased and was able to perform the reset mod to an older Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D starter pack. With the usual fooling around (experimenting with HDMI3 naming, etc.), everything works decently.

Are the glasses that came with the kit (they are the same in the Samsung kit, too) IR or DLP link glasses? If IR, would I benefit from DLP Link glasses or any others? My overall pic experience is decent, but I'm always open anything better.

Thanks.

Hi, I'm in the same boat as you. First off though...the 3DC-1000 did not need the reset mod performed, it will work fine with the Sammy from the get go. Only the 3DA-1 needed tinkering (reset mod -or- TV EDID Mitsu hack).

The pair of Mitsu SSG-2700MG/ZA glasses that come with the 3DC-1000 are the IR emitter type. Hold on to them because they are very nice and make great backup pairs. Despite that, they are not the ideal tech type to use with DLP. The Samsung SSG1000 glasses are also IR and will still show reddish blacks. DLP-Link glasses are a must to view proper color decoding.
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post #15064 of 15706 Old 04-10-2012, 11:18 AM
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Just a brief review to those of you looking for budget 3D glasses.

There are two active shutter versions offered by SainSonic: IR and DLP-Link. Both will function fine with DLP TVs. However, as discussed in previous posts, the DLP-Link type are preferred to achieve non color tainted deep blacks.

PROs:

-CHEAP (can be found for $40 shipped)
-Built in rechargable Li-Ion battery (fully charges in under 3 hrs, good for approx 50 hrs between charges).
-Excellent syncing. Quick sync-up. No problems whatsoever even at 30 feet away from screen in a _very bright_ daylit room! I was extremely impressed there.
-I didn't detect any flicker or notice any rainbows during bright scenes. Their polarization seems to be a perfect match for the HL61A750's optics.
-Very minimal ghosting at max 3D depth settings. Slightly better than the Mitsu glasses in that regard.
-They look more stylish than most other brands and they fit well over large presciption glasses. Not heavy or bulky..feel great to me even after extended use.

CONs:

-Seem slightly dimmer than the Mitsu IR glasses.
-Contrast and colors are _just a hair_ less glorious compared to the Mitsu glasses. I am very picky though. Detail is still top notch.
-A tad bit of internal light reflection at the peripheral (nothing major, most 3D glasses have this problem anyway).
-Must set 3D TV selection to Mode 2 for these. Unfortunately my pair of Mitsu IRs are optimal with 3D Mode 1.
-The charge cable is not a standard USB miniport connector. Do not attempt to jam a miniport plug into the charge port. Must use the supplied charge cable.

Summing it up:

I'm happy with them and would not hesitate to grab another pair. Sure there are better solutions out there, but they really aren't -that- much better enough to justify their price.

Sure.....still want a pair of ZD201s, but until then, these are more than adequate and will continue to get plenty of use.
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post #15065 of 15706 Old 04-11-2012, 03:01 PM
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I would appreciate your advise for selecting a 3D BD for the Samaung 61A750.
Below is my current setup. I do not have a Blue Ray player yet


I currently have the Mits / Samsung adapter hooked up from the Cox Cable Box directly to the 61A750. Using the IR emitter and glasses - the picture is great detail with the Mits Kit IR glasses, with very slight red tint.

The audio is from the Optic out on the 61A750 TV to the Denon 2410 AVR optic input. The 5.1 sound is very good thru the optic cable.

My DVD player is connected thru one of the Denon 2410 AVR which is HDMI 1.3.

1. What are your suggesions for a 3D Blue Ray player.
Do the new model 2012 Panasonic -- 320 or 500 offer any advantage

2. Is their a HDMI switching devise ( with 2 inputs and 1 output ) that I could input both the Cox Cable box to and the NEW 3D blu Ray player. The Mits / Samsung adapter would be connected on the output and then connected to the 61A750 TV.


Thank you, Charlie
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post #15066 of 15706 Old 04-11-2012, 03:16 PM
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This switcher works great:
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-3-In-1-Ou...4182579&sr=8-2

No rec for a BluRay player, I use my PS3. Sorry.
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post #15067 of 15706 Old 04-11-2012, 03:45 PM
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Thank you for the speedy Reply ---I need a little more info
On the Amazon URL the switcher product info indicates it is compatible with HDMI 1.3b.
Will this switcher pass HDMI 1.4 video and Audio or just the Video ?

When I initially hooked up the Mits/Samsung 3D adapter to my Denon 2410 (HDMI 1.3 )
it would not Pass the Cable Video or Audio 3D signal.

Thank you
Charlie
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post #15068 of 15706 Old 04-13-2012, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdadbear View Post

Thank you for the speedy Reply ---I need a little more info
On the Amazon URL the switcher product info indicates it is compatible with HDMI 1.3b.
Will this switcher pass HDMI 1.4 video and Audio or just the Video ?

When I initially hooked up the Mits/Samsung 3D adapter to my Denon 2410 (HDMI 1.3 )
it would not Pass the Cable Video or Audio 3D signal.

Thank you
Charlie

I'm only aware of a couple affordable switches that are rated 1.4/1.4a:

http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Switch-...dp/B005XB17GM/

http://www.satpro.tv/HDMISwitch.aspx

As long as a 1.3b switch is advertised as 3D compatible, it will function fine with a 1.4 3D source.

I actually own this auto switch:

http://www.amazon.com/Switch-Switche...dp/B0020426AG/

Just don't run a TiVo HD through this particular switch and you'll be fine. All of my other equipment functions great with it, but the TiVo was flaky from the start. Some kind of bizarre incompatibility.

Some reviewers have reported sporadic glitching with their PS3s, while others say that there are no issues whatsoever.
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post #15069 of 15706 Old 04-14-2012, 06:03 PM
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Thank you the for the detail on the Switches
I recently purchased the Mits / Samsung adapter. Any suggestion on my connection / hookup will be appreciated.
--Also any suggestions on Panny or SonyModel 3D Blu Ray Players since I use the Mits/Samsung Adapter and currently Use Optic output from my Sammsung to my Denon 2410 reciever.

My plan was to connect the Mits/Samsung adapter between the output on the switch and HDMI3 port on my Samsung 61A750, and the inputs would be my Cable Box, and a New 3D blu ray Player.

I certainly appreciate the help you experienced folks can provide.
Charlie
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post #15070 of 15706 Old 04-14-2012, 07:52 PM
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HI

I purchased a 3D panny bluray player, which outputs checkerboard format, so I tried to turn on 3d in the user menu of my tv, unable to turn on. Is it because I had my set calibrated, or is there something I'm missing. Read the manual I still can't turn 3d effects on. Will the xpand 103 glasses work with a emitter or will the 102 glasses work without or only work with out one. Thanks for any info
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post #15071 of 15706 Old 04-15-2012, 06:24 PM
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What's a decent price to put this on CL? The front black plastic is scratched up because of jumping dogs (for some reason my dogs love to get angry at animals on TV), but the screen itself works great, no issues with the LEDs, and all HDMI inputs working... The 61A750 LED. Going to move and going to just use my projector full-time in the living room...
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post #15072 of 15706 Old 04-16-2012, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rarcha42 View Post

HI

I purchased a 3D panny bluray player, which outputs checkerboard format, so I tried to turn on 3d in the user menu of my tv, unable to turn on. Is it because I had my set calibrated, or is there something I'm missing. Read the manual I still can't turn 3d effects on. Will the xpand 103 glasses work with a emitter or will the 102 glasses work without or only work with out one. Thanks for any info

Ok, it is either one of two things... Your HDMI cable is not 1.4a spec or the calibrator locked the user menu using Calibration mode.

If your user menu has Calibration Mode set, you can change to Standard Mode and do your best at making proper user menu adjustments to allow best picture.

Not all calibrated Samsungs show Calibration mode, as there are two ways to calibrate this tv and use the calibration mode in the service menu.

If you want to unlock Calibration mode by making the adjustment in the service menu, going back to the service menu will wipe out most all user menu settings that were locked by Calibration mode.

You will have to write down all user menu settings for reference before going into the service menu, so you can use them when done unlocking the Calibration Mode.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #15073 of 15706 Old 04-16-2012, 10:38 AM
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Not sure if it is the same on the 61A750 series, but on my model you also have to make sure to use HDMI 3 input in order for 3D mode to work.

xPand 102 - DLP Link no need for an emitter
xPand 103 - IR, needs emitter
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post #15074 of 15706 Old 04-16-2012, 05:06 PM
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Ok, it is either one of two things... Your HDMI cable is not 1.4a spec or the calibrator locked the user menu using Calibration mode also Not sure if it is the same on the 61A750 series, but on my model you also have to make sure to use HDMI 3 input in order for 3D mode to work.

Thanks for your help

Ok I have the hdmi pluged into dvi 3 renamed to pc, which outputs 3d, But I have the wrong set of glasses, I have the x103's which requires an emitter, so I'm waiting on an emitter, hoping that will let me turn on 3d, my cables are 1.3a certified, which some say it doesn't matter and some do, or if not both my 3d was locked during calibration. Can anyone tell me were it is in the service menu.

Thankyou all
Rich
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post #15075 of 15706 Old 04-16-2012, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rarcha42 View Post

Thanks for your help

Ok I have the hdmi pluged into dvi 3 renamed to pc, which outputs 3d, But I have the wrong set of glasses, I have the x103's which requires an emitter, so I'm waiting on an emitter, hoping that will let me turn on 3d, my cables are 1.3a certified, which some say it doesn't matter and some do, or if not both my 3d was locked during calibration. Can anyone tell me were it is in the service menu.

Thankyou all
Rich

P-Mode in Expert Settings. Set it to Movie and you will keep most of the calibration settings.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #15076 of 15706 Old 04-16-2012, 06:53 PM
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Thankyou LowTech

Checked my reciever, it passes 1.4a thats a plus, maybe I will also have better picture quality. I hope my calibrater did lock 3d and thats why.

Thanks again
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post #15077 of 15706 Old 04-16-2012, 07:20 PM
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Hi All

Checked my service menu and cannot find were 3d is shut off, is there a way to shut off 3d in the service menu.

Thanks Rich
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post #15078 of 15706 Old 04-17-2012, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rarcha42 View Post

Hi All

Checked my service menu and cannot find were 3d is shut off, is there a way to shut off 3d in the service menu.

Thanks Rich

As I explained, P-Mode may have Calibration set. If it is user menus are locked on picture adjustments. 3D mode may not show up if the user menu is locked by Calibration mode being set.

Yes, my 2010 Panasonic 42C2 performs better than an S2 No floating blacks and keeps the lowest black levels.
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post #15079 of 15706 Old 04-18-2012, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post

As I explained, P-Mode may have Calibration set. If it is user menus are locked on picture adjustments. 3D mode may not show up if the user menu is locked by Calibration mode being set.

Ha LowTech

Changed it back to movie, still did not turn on 3d effect, so I also shutoff expert calibration, still a no go, the only other thing I can see is to reset the system, and I realy don't want to chance it. I recored all of my settings, The only other thing I can do is try the xpand 102, which I heard they run off of the 3d picture, but tend to see flicking and a red ting from the blacks. I've heard this is done with many of these sets. Maybe mine is defective. Any other suggestions.

Thankyou Rich
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post #15080 of 15706 Old 04-18-2012, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rarcha42 View Post

Ha LowTech

Changed it back to movie, still did not turn on 3d effect, so I also shutoff expert calibration, still a no go, the only other thing I can see is to reset the system, and I realy don't want to chance it. I recored all of my settings, The only other thing I can do is try the xpand 102, which I heard they run off of the 3d picture, but tend to see flicking and a red ting from the blacks. I've heard this is done with many of these sets. Maybe mine is defective. Any other suggestions.

Thankyou Rich

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! By passed my reciever, and 1.4 cables are completly nessary. Just neeed to figure out whats up with the receiver.

Rich
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post #15081 of 15706 Old 04-20-2012, 09:18 AM
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I have recently purchased a new Panasonic Blu-ray player (DMP-BDT220). and although not advertised as such, and much to my surprise, I found out that this player still can out -put in the Checkerboard format like their earlier models did. I would like to know (hopefully the last time asked on this thread...I know...I KNOW...) after setting up the player to output Checkerboard and enabling the 3D mode on the TV and selecting "reverse", or mode 2 (DLP-linked glasses) ....DO I HAVE TO RENAME HDMI #3 INPUT TO "PC"...OR IS THAT JUST THE PROCEDURE WHEN USING AN ADAPTOR CONVERTER?....AND DO I HAVE TO UPGRADE MY 1.3 HDMI CABLES TO 1.4 ? (I'M USING OPTICAL FOR AUDIO AND TO MY KNOWLEDGE OUR TV'S WILL ALLOW 1.4, BUT NOT SUPPORT 1.4)....AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST.....WHICH OF THE FOLLOWING 3D LINKED GLASSES WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?
ULTA-CLEAR 3D-LINKED


XPAND X102 3D-LINKED


TRUE DEPTH 3D-LINKED RECHARGEABLE



OPTOMA DLP-LINKED


Thanx, hopefully this is the last time a question such as this has to be answered. : )
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post #15082 of 15706 Old 04-20-2012, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwatcher View Post

I have recently purchased a new Panasonic Blu-ray player (DMP-BDT220). and although not advertised as such, and much to my surprise, I found out that this player still can out -put in the Checkerboard format like their earlier models did. I would like to know (hopefully the last time asked on this thread...I know...I KNOW...) after setting up the player to output Checkerboard and enabling the 3D mode on the TV and selecting "reverse", or mode 2 (DLP-linked glasses) ....DO I HAVE TO RENAME HDMI #3 INPUT TO "PC"...OR IS THAT JUST THE PROCEDURE WHEN USING AN ADAPTOR CONVERTER?....AND DO I HAVE TO UPGRADE MY 1.3 HDMI CABLES TO 1.4 ? (I'M USING OPTICAL FOR AUDIO AND TO MY KNOWLEDGE OUR TV'S WILL ALLOW 1.4, BUT NOT SUPPORT 1.4)....AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST.....WHICH OF THE FOLLOWING 3D LINKED GLASSES WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?
ULTA-CLEAR 3D-LINKED


XPAND X102 3D-LINKED


TRUE DEPTH 3D-LINKED RECHARGEABLE



OPTOMA DLP-LINKED


Thanx, hopefully this is the last time a question such as this has to be answered. : )

Yes you have to rename HDMI #3 to PC for optimal 3D. If the port is not renamed, you will experience loads of crosstalk (ghosting). PC mode softens the image just a bit which nabs the problem.

Curiously though, I have set PC mode detection from "Auto" to "Enabled" within the service menu (which supposedly negates the need to rename the port). Unfortunately, although PC mode would automatically "kick-in" whenever 3D content is sourced...I still had to rename #3 to get rid of all the ghosting.

I personally still use HDMI 1.3 cables in my setup and have no signal degradation problems outputting 3D from the PS3. I do own a couple 1.4a 1.5ft patch cables, one of which is the connection from the 3DC-1000 to HDMI #3.

I'll leave it to another to answer the glasses ?.
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post #15083 of 15706 Old 04-20-2012, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonwatcher View Post

I have recently purchased a new Panasonic Blu-ray player (DMP-BDT220). and although not advertised as such, and much to my surprise, I found out that this player still can out -put in the Checkerboard format like their earlier models did. I would like to know (hopefully the last time asked on this thread...I know...I KNOW...) after setting up the player to output Checkerboard and enabling the 3D mode on the TV and selecting "reverse", or mode 2 (DLP-linked glasses) ....DO I HAVE TO RENAME HDMI #3 INPUT TO "PC"...OR IS THAT JUST THE PROCEDURE WHEN USING AN ADAPTOR CONVERTER?....AND DO I HAVE TO UPGRADE MY 1.3 HDMI CABLES TO 1.4 ? (I'M USING OPTICAL FOR AUDIO AND TO MY KNOWLEDGE OUR TV'S WILL ALLOW 1.4, BUT NOT SUPPORT 1.4)....AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST.....WHICH OF THE FOLLOWING 3D LINKED GLASSES WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?
ULTA-CLEAR 3D-LINKED


XPAND X102 3D-LINKED


TRUE DEPTH 3D-LINKED RECHARGEABLE



OPTOMA DLP-LINKED


Thanx, hopefully this is the last time a question such as this has to be answered. : )

Hi Moon Watcher

I would go with the last 2 glasses you refered to, the optoma or the true deph, as far as the expand goes I would only go with x103, thats just my opion.

GoodLuck Rich
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post #15084 of 15706 Old 04-21-2012, 08:30 AM
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xPand 103's are IR so they will suck on this set. Red tint - blah.

Go DLP Link. Optoma 101s stink, so get 102s if possible. The Ultra Clears are decent but cheap. Never used xPand 102 but people complain about how the batteries are locked in. True Depth get decent reviews as well but I have no personal experience with them.
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post #15085 of 15706 Old 04-21-2012, 03:44 PM
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HI Nickels

I have the X103's I have no red tint issues with my Samsung DLP HL61A750. If you have the correct IR emitter, and not a cheap one there shouldn't be a problem.
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post #15086 of 15706 Old 04-21-2012, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

xPand 103's are IR so they will suck on this set. Red tint - blah.

Go DLP Link. Optoma 101s stink, so get 102s if possible. The Ultra Clears are decent but cheap. Never used xPand 102 but people complain about how the batteries are locked in. True Depth get decent reviews as well but I have no personal experience with them.

What do you mean by batteries locked in? I have one that I have not used yet since I've never tried 3D on the TV. But I remember the glasses came with a spare battery.

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post #15087 of 15706 Old 04-23-2012, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Yes you have to rename HDMI #3 to PC for optimal 3D. If the port is not renamed, you will experience loads of crosstalk (ghosting). PC mode softens the image just a bit which nabs the problem.

Curiously though, I have set PC mode detection from "Auto" to "Enabled" within the service menu (which supposedly negates the need to rename the port). Unfortunately, although PC mode would automatically "kick-in" whenever 3D content is sourced...I still had to rename #3 to get rid of all the ghosting.

I personally still use HDMI 1.3 cables in my setup and have no signal degradation problems outputting 3D from the PS3. I do own a couple 1.4a 1.5ft patch cables, one of which is the connection from the 3DC-1000 to HDMI #3.

I'll leave it to another to answer the glasses ?.

Can you play regular blu-ray though that renamed HGMI #3 port ( now named "PC" to view Checkerboard 3D material ) or should you unplug the HDMI cable and plug it into #1 or #2 any time you wish to watch standard Blu-ray. Just wondering.... because if a renamed port ("P C") can effectively eliminate "ghosting" in Checkerboard 3D images , what effect; if negative, would that renamed port have on standard Blu-ray images?
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post #15088 of 15706 Old 04-24-2012, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Moonwatcher View Post

Can you play regular blu-ray though that renamed HGMI #3 port ( now named "PC" to view Checkerboard 3D material ) or should you unplug the HDMI cable and plug it into #1 or #2 any time you wish to watch standard Blu-ray. Just wondering.... because if a renamed port ("P C") can effectively eliminate "ghosting" in Checkerboard 3D images , what effect; if negative, would that renamed port have on standard Blu-ray images?

Sure, you'll be able to view regular 2D material just fine. The only drawback will be a softer image. It's mainly due to the sharpness picture control (among others) being automatically locked out within PC mode.

I am constantly going back and forth renaming HDMI3 to PC for 3D, then blanking it out again for 2D. It's a slight hassle, but is the only way to get the very best of both picture modes.
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post #15089 of 15706 Old 04-24-2012, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rarcha42 View Post

HI Nickels

I have the X103's I have no red tint issues with my Samsung DLP HL61A750. If you have the correct IR emitter, and not a cheap one there shouldn't be a problem.

This is news to me. You are suggesting that certain IR emitters have the capability to allow IR glasses to actively block the DLP-Link sync signal (the red tint). The emitter that came with the 3DC-1000 kit is definitely not "a cheap one" as you put it.

Are you positive that you are seeing absolutely no reddish blacks at all? Some individuals are not very sensitive to discolored blacks. My brother and sister-in-law did not complain about them while watching Hubble 3D through my pair of Mitsu kit supplied IRs. .....But the problem is very distracting to me. Had to go DLP-Link.
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post #15090 of 15706 Old 04-24-2012, 08:26 AM
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KewlK - I have seen people post that they do not have red tinted blacks on their sets. These also seem to be the same people who have problems with DLP link glasses. I am not sure that the x103s block the DLP link signal, as this is the first time I've heard of any IR glasses that make blacks look black. I think his set may have no DLP Link signal or a weak one, where there is no tint to begin with.

rarcha42 - Are your blacks heavily tinted red before putting on the glasses?

I've used some fairly nice IR glasses, none of them removed the red tint. Only DLP Link glasses have worked for me.
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