2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 522 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15631 of 16059 Old 04-17-2014, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenWH View Post

I know the feeling. It takes very...i mean VERY small adjustments. The littlest movement is amplified on the screen big time. It certainly helps to have someone guiding you. All the movements are reversed due to the mirror as well which makes it tricky. So if the image you see on the screen needs to go to the right then you nudge the dmd to the left etc. I should have spent a bit more time on alignment also but i got mine close enough.wink.gif


Thanks for the info on the adjusters EddyDean...nice to know they are there if I need to tweak the focus. However, I don't think just doing the basic dmd replacement would change the focus. That said if the image is noticeably softer post dmd swap maybe something isn't seated properly...I'd check that before touching the focus adjustment. I know when I used the dmd swap instructions, that I linked earlier, mine didn't change. Other methods may have you disassembling more of the tv, so the adjustment knobs may come in handy for some.

Its pretty tough to align yourself. I hooked my pc upto it and put this image on the screen:
http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/image/77579988

kept moving it the wrong way but finally got it good enough. It was actaually better than before I started. Would be a lot easier to have someone looking at it and telling you which way to go. Gets a bit confusing cause as you said, when you move it it goes the other way.
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post #15632 of 16059 Old 04-22-2014, 08:12 PM
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I have a new issue with my TV that just started happening today. I tried searching but wasn't able to find any similar issues. I started to get some horizontal lines randomly on the left side of the screen and it eventually (after about 90-120 minutes of TV) got much worse. It started to display the picture with the edge down the middle (so the screen is divided with the left half on the right side and vice versa). I've attached a couple pictures of what it was doing, one with the minor lines I was getting and another with the horribly distorted image. I'm guessing this is something on the main board and it would be easy to just swap it out, but there's a possibility of the TV getting replaced as well. I just moved from Japan back to the US and the TV has only been here for a week. We've been using it every day since then but today was the first sign of trouble. Could this have been caused by moving the unit? If it isn't and/or it's a simple board swap I feel perfectly capable of doing it since I've already taken the board off once (before I realized I didn't need to while replacing the DMD chip.) I've also noticed since I replaced the DMD chip last year that the bottom right corner seems to be a little out of focus, just enough to bother me. Do you think the chip just needs to be cleaned or is there some adjustment I should try first? And lastly I've noticed in the past few years that reds seem to be overblown on the screen (not quite as bad as the one picture, that was just some crazy club scene). If there's a closeup on someone's face any redness on their face (pink, red, purple, etc) will seem like too much and kind of bleeds into the surrounding area. What can I do about that?


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post #15633 of 16059 Old 04-22-2014, 11:13 PM
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Regarding the streaking, these are the only ideas that come to mind:

Check that the DMD chip is seated properly in the socket.
Check the signal cable from the main board to the DMD board is secure at both ends.
Maybe the DMD board itself is becomming flakey.
Maybe it is an overheating problem, check that the heatsink on the back of the DMD is seated properly, and thermal compound (like artic silver) should be used.
Check the fan behind the DMD heatsink is actually working and the heatsink is not full of dust.

As for the "too much red" :

If you are in "Dynamic" picture mode, try changing to "Standard" or "Movie".
Go into picture settings and reduce color saturation and/or reduce the red setting.
There are a lot of Detail Picture Settings you could play with; note that some of them need to be set for each input source separately.

I don't know what your "LED Brightness" settings are, but I recommend "medium" or "low" for reducing the thermal stress on the LEDs.

These things are described on pg 24-25 of the user manual (the version that I have).
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post #15634 of 16059 Old 04-28-2014, 05:48 AM
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So, I've had this HDTV since about 2008 and it's still going strong. I calibrated it many years ago (using AVSHD.709) and haven't touched the settings since because it looked so good. Recently, however, I began watching the Life series on Bluray and noticed that it had a calibration tool on the disc, so I decided to test it out. Everything seemed perfect except for the brightness setting.

Using the AVSHD.709 disc, I set the brightness to 47 which allowed the bars numbered 17 and up to flash. Turning it down to 46 clipped number 17; setting it to 45 clipped 18; and so on.

On the Life Bluray, the calibration tool uses a screen with A, B, and C bars and tells you to adjust the bars until the A and B bars completely disappear and the C is barely visible. As my TV was set, the A and C were completely visible (B was invisible no matter what) and the background was grey rather than black. Adjusting the brightness of my set to comply with this test resulted in the brightness being dropped to 35. At 35, the A bar disappeared and C was barely visible.

No other settings had changed.

I put the AVSHD.709 disc back in and noticed that on the brightness calibration tool, NO bars were flashing. Every bar was solid black.

Wondering why there was such a difference, and thinking that it was perhaps a problem with the calibration tool on the Life Bluray, I decided to hunt through my collection to find other discs with calibration tools. I located two different THX calibration tools and one Disney calibration tool.

Using these three different calibration tools, the brightness setting matched that of the Life Bluray and completely contradicted the AVSHD.709 disc. Changing the brightness setting on my set from 47 to 35 (and back and forth) while watching an actual movie resulted in some pretty impressive differences and actually looked much better at 35 and I notice no crushing of blacks anywhere in the scene(s).

Does anyone know why there is such a difference? This was all done from a Samsung F5900 3D Bluray player, using HDMI, but the Bluray player has no setting for changing HDMI Black Level so I assume it's set by default to limited/normal. I cannot change the HDMI black level on my set as it's greyed out while using Bluray.

Also, thinking that it was perhaps a problem with my Bluray player, I tried all four of the above mentioned discs with the PS4 and yielded the exact same results.

Something else that I noticed is, using the brightness setting of 35 and playing PS4 (RGB/Color set to Full) and 360 (set to Expanded and RGB), games DO appear to have crushed blacks. Changing them to limited HDMI output seems to correct the issue.

Have I had the wrong setting for this television for all these years?!
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post #15635 of 16059 Old 04-29-2014, 03:40 PM
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can anyone help/direct me to where i would get a new input board?
i've lost hdmi 1, hdmi 2 is in and out/and fuzzy for lack of a better word, and 3 is the only one left that works.
(hl61a750)

much appreciated!

Ben
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post #15636 of 16059 Old 04-29-2014, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wutangben View Post

can anyone help/direct me to where i would get a new input board?

You mean BP94-02326A Assy Pcb Main.

There are a few out there, around $200+. Such as: https://www.partstore.com/Model/Samsung/Samsung/BP9402326A.aspx

or do a google search like I did.
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post #15637 of 16059 Old 04-30-2014, 09:56 AM
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thanks for clearing that up. i checked eBay for all available HL61A750 parts and couldn't find the name of that board. google searched as well.

follow up question, maybe you guys can help:

recently, (could have happened after a thunderstorm), I completely lost HDMI 1, says something like "no devices connected", HDMI 2 will say "no signal detected" but sometimes will have picture, but it is all glitched out and not clear (hard to explain), and HDMI 3 is the only one left that works just fine. does that sound like something that could be fixed by replacing that board?

thanks so much, appreciate the help
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post #15638 of 16059 Old 04-30-2014, 01:26 PM
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I have the same white and black dot issue with a Samsung HL61A750A1F that is about six years old. I tried the live chat on Samsung's website after the "executive customer service" number took me to an Allstate motor club. Got nowhere with "Arnold" on live chat. They told me that it is a common issue due to wear and tear. Initially the salesman told me this TV would last 20+ years because of the high-reliability LEDs and solid-state parts. Very disappointed with Samsung - they just lost a customer! I'm going to have to replace the chip myself, but I hate having to spend another $200 on this TV to keep it going.

An update: I emailed their executive customer service, got a 'lead' named Amanda, and she wouldn't budge on warranty. She basically said, "Sorry for any inconvenience."
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post #15639 of 16059 Old 05-01-2014, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wutangben View Post

does that sound like something that could be fixed by replacing that board?

Yes.

As for HL6xA750 parts on ebay, they aren't so common now that there will always be listings. They show up sporadically, so you need to keep checking or enter a search request.
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post #15640 of 16059 Old 05-01-2014, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlemstar View Post

I have the same white and black dot issue with a Samsung HL61A750A1F that is about six years old.

So whats the big deal? Either replace the DMD chip or don't. This set is looooong out of warranty.
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post #15641 of 16059 Old 05-01-2014, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post

So whats the big deal? Either replace the DMD chip or don't. This set is looooong out of warranty.

The big deal is that I have a Philips Magnavox 32" tube TV from 1998 that still works like a champ, yet this LED DLP piece of crap only lasted 6 years...."durable goods" are no longer durable. That's the issue.
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post #15642 of 16059 Old 05-01-2014, 08:30 PM
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Yawn. Guess you ought not to buy new products any more. Planned obsolescence, ya know.
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post #15643 of 16059 Old 05-02-2014, 11:29 AM
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Recently purchased a 61A750 to replace a 61A650. Loved my 650 and it had a great picture, but always wanted the 750. To my surprise the sound of the A750 is terrible compared to the 650. Any ideas what could be wrong with it? It works but everything I do to it does not give it anymore depth/bass. Hard to explain other than that the 650's sound was 10x's better. Any thoughts?? 

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post #15644 of 16059 Old 05-03-2014, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Pinball13 View Post

.... Hard to explain other than that the 650's sound was 10x's better. Any thoughts?? 

1. assuming its not an internal amplifier issue, try taking the speakers from the 650 and put them into the 750. Too much work, right?

2. take the audio out of the 750, either coax or fiber, and run it to an input on a "real" audio amplifier, driving "real" speakers, including a sub-woofer. This is what most people do, as TV speaker audio, no matter the seeming quality difference between sets, is a pale imitation of good sound.
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post #15645 of 16059 Old 05-15-2014, 06:43 PM
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Sorry to double post... I found the 67" owner thread first... but this one appears to be far more active so I'll ask here as well since the 67 and 61 are basically the same.


Found an updated service manual link for anyone that needs it:

http://www.epanorama.net/sff/Video/Products/SAMSUNG%20HL67A750.pdf



I'm having two issues with my 67a750.

First one is I've got a slight shadow on the left edge of the screen that goes from top to bottom and is about 1 or 2 inches deep. From my reading people have described this as something to do with light tunnel. I also remember reading how to possibly fix this myself, but I can't seem to find the guide/post or thread about doing so Does anyone have a link for that info?

Here's a pic from another post... my issue again isn't nearly as bad, but very similar to this:






Secondly, I blew out some dust the other day and now have a slight "light distortion" now... Here's a pic from another thread...


My issues isn't nearly as bad, but I do have two overlapping circles towards the far lower right of the screen... again... only two circles... not the hundreds in the photo.

Any tips on correcting this issue as well? I've already ensured that the mirrors and lens are clean and are not the issue so the problem lies on the inside of the lens or deeper... and since this started just after blowing out some dust I suspect it's a dust issue or I blew something lose.

Thanks for any help or tips

TK
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post #15646 of 16059 Old 05-15-2014, 07:05 PM
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Found the post that "should" help with my shadow problem...

I'll try and report back with my results soon....


Quote:
Originally Posted by falz View Post


Wanted to chime in to thank you for the above information! This issue started happening for me about a week ago- left side of screen had about 1" of gradient that faded to dark towards the bezel. I've owned the TV for just under 2 years.


Here's a picture of swazzman's image that I've mirrored on my hosting:





You have to reach somewhat deep behind the red hilighted circuit board, turn the lower knob AWAY from you (left) to move the picture left. I turned it about 1/4 and it worked perfectly.


Here's direct links to the image in a small and large size:


* samsung_hl61a750a_illumination_adj_knobs_location-small.jpg

* samsung_hl61a750a_illumination_adj_knobs_location.jpg


Good luck to anyone else doing this, it's really quite simple.

TK
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post #15647 of 16059 Old 05-15-2014, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenWH View Post

Not exactly sure why your posting in this thread but I'll still take my 67a750 over most current lcd flat panels for the following reasons:

Smooth motion...

Size...

Contrast...

Solid even blacks...(no clouds on my a750)

Did i mention smooth motion...(i don't care how inflated the lcd refresh numbers are getting)

No need for the latest 3d...(i've got it on other newer sets but never watch 3d )

My Roku box is "smart" enough

No need for "thin"...besides...most bases on lcd's and plasma's in this size range take up nearly as much space as the a750's anyway

DIY fixing this tv was WAY WAY cheaper than buying a new set that would be able to rival the picture quality and size of my 67A750

I spent less than $200 and it took less than an hour of my time to have this outstanding tv looking like new again...Thank You Internet...LOL cool.gif
This bears repeating. Well put my friend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlemstar View Post

I have the same white and black dot issue with a Samsung HL61A750A1F that is about six years old. I tried the live chat on Samsung's website after the "executive customer service" number took me to an Allstate motor club. Got nowhere with "Arnold" on live chat. They told me that it is a common issue due to wear and tear. Initially the salesman told me this TV would last 20+ years because of the high-reliability LEDs and solid-state parts. Very disappointed with Samsung - they just lost a customer! I'm going to have to replace the chip myself, but I hate having to spend another $200 on this TV to keep it going.

An update: I emailed their executive customer service, got a 'lead' named Amanda, and she wouldn't budge on warranty. She basically said, "Sorry for any inconvenience."
I feel your pain too because I just went through this as well. I was not expecting Samsung to pay for the repair but I certainly hoped they would send me a DMD chip from TI as they had done it for previous models and Mitsu had been doing it. They should have referred me to TI who ought to have their rear ends handed to them but that is another story. I have read in some areas that DMDs are warranteed for life from TI and one of my beamers is a DLP. unit. It kills my other LCD beamer for sharpness and refresh rate as mentioned above. Regardless I just replaced my DMD today and could not be happier. I will post about some tips on that experience next.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post

Yawn. Guess you ought not to buy new products any more. Planned obsolescence, ya know.
I have looked at your posts on this of late and do not feel they contribute much. I too bought this particular model based on claims the TV can last as long as 20 years with the LED light engine. If I wanted planned obsolescence I would have bought one of the inferior picture quality plasma or LCD models that were way over priced and sucked. Not to mention this one clobbered all of them in the showroom for PQ and it had 3D capability. Yes I have watched many a 3D movie on this set and that led me to getting my DLP projector. I have not posted here in a while and I am not trying to start anything with you. Matter of fact I will not participate in any argument with you. Just want you to realize that I too was sold on the long life of this TV based on manufacturer claims of the longevity. Sure nothing warranted or in writing but their ads had no problems touting it so folks upset about this does not bother me. I feel their pain but like you posted, I chose to fix it because I like it that much. As for obsolescence, I can honestly say there is not really a TV in the store that looks better than mine even today, limited 4k stuff aside, and there is little of that to watch so yawn.
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post #15648 of 16059 Old 05-15-2014, 07:43 PM
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Teknomedic, I believe the focus alignment on pages 4-28 and 4-29 is exactly what you are looking for. Out of curiosity, what happened to cause this? I was looking at those two adjusting screws just today when I replaced my DMD.
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post #15649 of 16059 Old 05-15-2014, 08:55 PM
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OK folks, I am not going to review this entire thread for DMD replacement guides or tips. Suffice it to say that what I did find on a quick search discussed this and that about how to go about it along with some videos. The big point I want to clarify is if you read that you do not need to remove all of the screws to replace the chip, I could not figure it out. Especially since the DMD is secured to the board from the front side with two screws so that board has got to come out. So the supposed screws you should not remove lest you have to adjust must come out. Not only that, if you are replacing a DMD you need to just pull out the whole light engine and clean out that whole assembly. I pulled all the fans and covers and gave them a good cleaning along with the LED heat sink and fin assemblies. It is much easier to do the DMD swap this way with the engine out in my opinion especially since I took it outside and used compressed air. I also noted a film over the lens cover (piece of glass) that I was able to clean up with the engine out.

Some tips from me, get rid of the silly thermal pad and use Arctic Silver or better. Pile it on, it cannot hurt any thing if it oozes out, just look where it will ooze, but it can hurt if there is not enough. Do not disconnect any cable you do not have to. Simple right? Well if you do this by pulling just the DMD board you will disconnect more cabling than I did or you will be hunched over inside the back of the TV. Assemble the unit with the new DMD just like it was, duh, and don't get carried away with the screws that have springs on them. Just snug them up good for tension. These will hold the unit (DMD chip and board) together and loosely attach the three board mounting screws. Just snug them so the board is tight but can be moved by hand. Do not put the heat sink on before you put the DMD board back cover on or you will remove it lol. So basically, Remove old chip, insert new, secure with two screws from front of DMD board, assemble in reverse order and put heat sink on after back cover plate is on. You will see. Remove plastic access caps from back cover plate and make adjustments until picture is good and secure. Replace caps. The adjustment is not at all hard but requires two people or a lot of back and forth.

Again, this may have been covered but just wanted to say for $200 the TV is back up and running as good as new. I had the Milky Way forming and decided to fix it before it got silly. Started with 3 white pixels that went to 15 and two stuck black ones within 3 weeks. If I can get another 2-3 years out of this unit I will be pleased because it is the workhorse here. I could not be happier with the picture right now. Good as new.
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post #15650 of 16059 Old 05-15-2014, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

Teknomedic, I believe the focus alignment on pages 4-28 and 4-29 is exactly what you are looking for. Out of curiosity, what happened to cause this? I was looking at those two adjusting screws just today when I replaced my DMD.

I'm not sure what caused either of these issues TBH. My "shadow on the left side" issue has been there for years, but since I was going about removing dust I figured I'd finally tackle that little annoyance.

As an update... adjusting the lower "screw" did "fix" my "left sided shadow issue so now that's gone from what I can see with little or no other changes made to the image as far as I can tell.


As for my "light distortion" or "sun spots" problem... well.. after looking more closely I can see a few more of those "circles"... they are very faint and easy to miss, but there... so I guess my issue is larger than I first thought.

I'm not sure what caused this problem either as I don't recall seeing those spots previous to moving the TV to get to the rear to blow out the dust so I guess it's possible I broke some sort of seal when I moved the TV or put too much air force on the wrong spot.

Everything I can move or touch or clean does nothing to make the issue better or worse. From the post I found that picture on they mentioned a tech called it "light leakage", but I see no way to fix it without removing the DMD board and even then it might be deep within the engine and not accessible.

At least it's not horrible for me and can only be seen when the screen is totally dark so it should be easy to ignore 98% of the time.

I will take suggestions if anyone knows how to correct this issue though. wink.gif

Thanks

TK
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post #15651 of 16059 Old 05-16-2014, 03:45 AM
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I take it back... the problem described in the picture that's nearly identical to the one I'm having (just less noticeable) is far more annoying than I thought it would be.


I'm really looking for any info on fixing this... anyone have any tips or even what this problem is officially called (so I can search more effectively for a solution).


Here's the page where the original poster submitted this pic:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1134887/official-2008-samsung-hl61a750-hl67a750-led-dlp-settings-and-calibration-thread/540

Thanks in advance...


TK
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post #15652 of 16059 Old 05-17-2014, 04:52 PM
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Hello everyone. I really appreciate all the good information on here.

I have a Samsung HL61A750A1FXCA. I also bought it in August of 2008, like several other members. I love it and don't want to replace it. Only problem I had was with one fan, and that was an easy fix.

I now have the cycling on and off, automatically, problem. It will not fire up long enough to install the updated firmware from Samsung.... Popcorn smell and all. Based on this thread and other research, I have determined I need the BP44-01001A power supply board. I have located one, and it will be on the way to me on Monday.

The problem I have is removing the old board. I have it completely loose inside the TV chassis (and the smaller board chassis is loose, also), but there is a long white connector toward that back (right) side of the board that is being stubborn. It has multiple wires running to it. I don't want to break something I will need to re-use (the male end and wires stay connected to the TV), but I can't jiggle it loose at all.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the longer, white, multi-connector, without damaging it. I have all the screws out of the board (little short fine thread screws), and the board is loose, except for that connector. I tried nudging it with a flat-head screwdriver against the upper lip of the plug, to no avail.

(All the Youtube videos I have found are of different models. An especially good one is on the 72" version, but the power supply board is in a different location. Looking at the back of my TV, my board is to the lower left, next to all the connections {RCA/HDMI, etc} and has a "post" at the corner, right in the way).

Thanks alot, in advance.
Barry
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post #15653 of 16059 Old 05-17-2014, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Piratefan View Post

.... BP44-01001A power supply board.... It has multiple wires running to it.... but I can't jiggle it loose at all.
Use more force. Either pry with a thin blade (knife), or grab the entire wire bundle and pull, or both.
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post #15654 of 16059 Old 05-17-2014, 05:50 PM
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Thanks.

The wires won't pull out of the connector, if I have to pull it out by them? Just being safe, rather than sorry.
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post #15655 of 16059 Old 05-17-2014, 07:13 PM
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Follow-up. I still can't get it to budge. I put the screws back into the board so I could give myself something stable to pull against. I pulled on the wires as hard as I could. Then I stuck a knife in between the male plug and the female receptor attached to the board, but I can only reach three sides.

It's still inside the TV chassis, so there is no way to get your weight behind it or get leverage on it. I've pulled many of these types connectors apart, but never found one this stubborn and tight.

I wonder if I spray some electronics cleaner in and around it, if that would help? Just shooting in the dark at this point. It has to come apart to replace the board. A nickel holding up a dollar. lol
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post #15656 of 16059 Old 05-17-2014, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piratefan View Post

Follow-up. I still can't get it to budge.

Hmmm. Maybe you can try unplugging the other end of that cable from the main-board. Then once the SMPS + cable are outside of the TV shell, then you can try other methods of unplugging the cable from the SMPS.

Just wondering, as this is a power cable, whether there is any electro-migration effect that might act like it is 'welding' the contacts.

I doubt whether cleaner spray would help, but I don't think it would hurt. I'd be more inclined to try freeze-spray, to see if that would shrink/expand the contacts and maybe break them loose.
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post #15657 of 16059 Old 05-18-2014, 08:22 AM
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In the videos of this repair, no one else seemed to have any real problems disconnecting this junction. It wasn't mentioned as being a problem, anyway. The other end of the cable goes up into the TV, that is not revealed by removing the lower back panel. There is another similar plug that is on the board chassis (not the main TV chassis). The board chassis also has all the input connections on it (HDMI, Composite, etc), and I believe the board chassis can be removed if that is disconnected. But it seems to be quite snug, also, even though I have not tried very hard to disconnect it. At least if I got that chassis out, I could use more leverage in disconnecting the original problem connection we are discussing.

I will try all the suggestions again today, and report back.
Thanks, again.
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post #15658 of 16059 Old 05-18-2014, 09:36 AM
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kextyn.......had about the same problem last years....replaced dmd board and problem resolved.....
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post #15659 of 16059 Old 05-18-2014, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post

Hmmm. Maybe you can try unplugging the other end of that cable from the main-board. Then once the SMPS + cable are outside of the TV shell, then you can try other methods of unplugging the cable from the SMPS.

Just wondering, as this is a power cable, whether there is any electro-migration effect that might act like it is 'welding' the contacts.

I doubt whether cleaner spray would help, but I don't think it would hurt. I'd be more inclined to try freeze-spray, to see if that would shrink/expand the contacts and maybe break them loose.

SUCCESS!!

The guy that I bought the board from replied and gave me a tip. The connector with the wires has a tab on it, like most, and I was pushing it in like you're supposed to. But my fingers were too fat, and it wasn't releasing at the bottom (the whole tab was being pushed in). You push the TOP of the plastic clip/retainer and the bottom of it pops out, releasing the connector to be pulled out. A pair of needle-nose did the trick, once I knew what I was supposed to be looking for. I then took the entire sub-chassis out, so it will be easier to install the new board without reaching inside the TV chassis.

Many thanks for the assistance. Awesome forum!

Have a great day. smile.gif
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post #15660 of 16059 Old 05-20-2014, 08:19 PM
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I have a weird problem with mine. My bottom right corner of my screen is missing.
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