2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 524 - AVS Forum
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post #15691 of 15875 Old 06-20-2014, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
Have you looked at the Lee Bailey service menu threads?

2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ
Logical place to start, already come across this. What I really need is detail as to what all the various SM menu options actually do/affect. The service manuals for these sets don't exactly spell it out for those of us that weren't "factory trained". About 2/3 are obvious, the rest leave you guessing. Unless this is indicative of some hardware fault, I'm looking at something in that 1/3 of unknowns in the menus that I don't want to touch unless I know what they do. Don't actually have the manual for the 750, just older sets (of little use).
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post #15692 of 15875 Old 06-21-2014, 01:13 PM
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There is a link to a source for the service manual here:
2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ

The manual has a list of the default values for the service menu settings, and the Option Byte can be used to reset various sections to factory default. Some of the parameters have brief descriptions in the list, but most don't.
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post #15693 of 15875 Old 06-25-2014, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
There is a link to a source for the service manual here:
2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ

The manual has a list of the default values for the service menu settings, and the Option Byte can be used to reset various sections to factory default. Some of the parameters have brief descriptions in the list, but most don't.
Thank you Cosmic!

Glancing through that I suspect (a bad input/HDMI callibration run) may be rectified in MST336, first 7 items. MST336 is in a logical place in the block diagrams and the base values for cutoff and gain are identical to those in the "ADC RESULT" area on the 650s. It's possible CCA is linked and processing is bypassed or runs default values when CCA is off. This didn't stand out at me when I was perusing the menus on my set, good chance this is where things are whacked. With the manual/defaults this stood out at me like a sore thumb. Away from home till after 7/4 will report back eventually.

Base settings here (as on the 650s) are a starting point. Fair amount of tweaking is necessary to maintain color temp across the grayscale as well as prevent black crush/white clip on both ends (or effectively sacrificing native contrast).

I might finally pull the trigger on a Spider4. I would love to get this set really spot on.
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post #15694 of 15875 Old 06-26-2014, 07:49 AM
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Dang it! After 6 problem free years with my 67a750, it finally developed a problem. I have a stuck mirror on the DLP chip. I know it is only a matter of time before more mirrors get stuck. I had a 50" 720p set, don't remember the model # off the top of my head, that developed this issue as well. Started with 1, then three, then 9. Now with that set, there was a recall in place to have the chip replaced free of charge. I called Samsung and someone was out within a week to fix it. Does the same recall or similar cover these LED models as well? There was a huge post on the Cnet forums that covered the recall, but I cant find it any longer.
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post #15695 of 15875 Old 06-26-2014, 03:42 PM
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After 6 years, I doubt there would be any free service for this set.

What you might do, if you are inclined, is take the heat sink off the back of the DMD and clean the DMD back and the heat sink, and apply fresh arctic silver. It might stop the degradation. Thats assuming you're willing to live with the dead mirror.
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post #15696 of 15875 Old 06-27-2014, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
After 6 years, I doubt there would be any free service for this set.

What you might do, if you are inclined, is take the heat sink off the back of the DMD and clean the DMD back and the heat sink, and apply fresh arctic silver. It might stop the degradation. Thats assuming you're willing to live with the dead mirror.
Though excessive heat can definitely damage a DMD, the defect affecting 2007-2008 models is not a heat related issue.
I remember coming across information a couple years back (I wish I could remember where, I think it was buried somewhere in TI's technical documents on their site) disclosing the defect in 2007 (affecting models sold between 2007-2008) was actually due to a problem with their proprietary lubricant (gaseous form) that's used inside the chip. The chips involved will fail prematurely and there's little to be done to prevent it. Chips manufactured before or after that "bad run" can be expected to perform commensurate to their published MTBF (around 1/2 million hours) with proper light sources/filtering etc. Another reason it is important to stick to approved genuine OEM bulbs/LEDs: aftermarket replacements (cheapos) can emit more IR (heat) and UV (degrades plastic, can cause clouding in lenses/mirrors)... more than the set's optics are designed to handle/dissipate. I had one set (a 2007 x650 subject to the defect chips) I had cleaned/replaced the OE heat sink compound with artic silver when I acquired it.. the DMD failed anyway about a year later.
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post #15697 of 15875 Old 06-27-2014, 03:43 PM
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Do note regarding 1/2 million hour MTBF: This does not mean any specific DMD can be expected to last for 57 years of continuous use. MTBF is a predictive mathematical model of expected failure rates weighted toward the beginning of a device's service life (warranty period). 1/2 million hour MTBF shakes out to an average of around 1.5 failures per 100 units per 8765 hours (1 yr) of run time (if my math is correct). Most devices rated at 1/2 million hours MTBF state a useable service life of around 5 years (15 years for a TV powered on 8 hours per day). This would apply only to the DMD under ideal conditions, and does not account for other things inside a TV that can fail and/or external conditions that can damage the DMD (improper light sources, overvoltage from a malfunctioning power supply, etc).
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post #15698 of 15875 Old 06-27-2014, 11:08 PM
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I figured I'd post on this issue again that I have had with my 61A750 to see if anyone has an insight. After having no issues for years, a while back I started noticing this "halo" effect where there was this whiteish "ring" of sorts on the bottom half and part of the top right of the screen (depicted in my attached picture).

I have not had any issues with white dots, nor have I had any color issues. This ring is apparent on darker or black screens, and is not really noticeable if the screen has bright scenes. Other than that the TV seems to be working perfectly. This size of the ring has not changed. Does anybody exactly know what this issue is and how it can be fixed? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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post #15699 of 15875 Old 06-29-2014, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyBri View Post
... I started noticing this "halo" effect where there was this whiteish "ring" of sorts...
This looks suspiciously like the effect that happens when external light shines into the screen. This is noticable even with the set turned off. Have you changed your room lighting lately?
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post #15700 of 15875 Old 06-29-2014, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
This looks suspiciously like the effect that happens when external light shines into the screen. This is noticable even with the set turned off. Have you changed your room lighting lately?
It's definitely not the room lighting. The room lighting has stayed the same, with the issue became more and more apparent over time. Also, the issue is noticeable whether the room is dark or light.
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post #15701 of 15875 Old 07-01-2014, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyBri View Post
It's definitely not the room lighting. The room lighting has stayed the same, with the issue became more and more apparent over time. Also, the issue is noticeable whether the room is dark or light.
Then light must be leaking from the light path somewhere, or there is dust/dirt/smudge on the optics which is scattering light.

If you open one of the side ports in the back shell and look in at the lens, and the mirror, can you see any thing thats scattering light? Or something reflecting off the lens from inside the cabinet?
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post #15702 of 15875 Old 07-04-2014, 07:15 PM
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HL61A750A1FXZA Samsung TV

Looking for some help in repairing my Samsung Television. The TV doesn't come on. The symptoms are as follows:
1. Press On button. Blue ring shows up around button. Green LED flashes. clicking is heard, but television doesn't come on.
2. This happens two more times before all the front panel indicators start flashing.
3. None of the cooling fans come on.
4. Measured high voltage 300Vdc and it comes up initially but goes away. It comes back and goes away two more times as TV tries to come on.
5. Tried to measure 12Vdc on main power supply, which I think should power the fans. Measures 0 Vdc. The 5 Vdc standby is present.

Does this sound like the main power supply is bad? Looking for a way to test the power supply. I would think that the low dc voltages should be present after the power button is pressed.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance,
Bryan

Last edited by BryanKr51; 07-04-2014 at 07:24 PM.
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post #15703 of 15875 Old 07-07-2014, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BryanKr51 View Post
... Does this sound like the main power supply is bad?...
That would be my first guess.
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post #15704 of 15875 Old 07-08-2014, 02:13 PM
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I am currently having an issue with my hl61a750. It is a hard problem to repeatedly duplicate, but the best description I can give is when there isn't a signal, everything has a pinkish tint to it. When a signal is input, the colors are corrected for the most part. Also in dark scenes in TV or movies, there is a pinkish tint to everything. When the scene brightens up, the colors clear up. Occasionally when I am watching something, there appears to be a slight green tint to everything for a second and then it's fine. Also when the tv turns on, instead of a solid black screen, it has the slight pink tint until my input kicks in. I have done the test patterns in the service menu and they all look fine. I am completely lost! Any help that you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Last edited by psycoffman; 07-09-2014 at 10:58 PM.
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post #15705 of 15875 Old 07-08-2014, 02:54 PM
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This sounds just like the issue I had a few years ago. Two days before the warranty expired I had these symptoms and Samsung's website pointed me to a local authorized repair shop. They replaced the power supply and all was well until 12 months later then the same thing. This time I pleaded with them to fix it right as I was now paying out of pocket. They told me they would upgrade the power supply by replaced several capacitors (and maybe something else, don't know)with higher quality ones (we figured Samsung was cutting corners knowing the RPDLP's were going away) and several years later it's working great without issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanKr51 View Post
Looking for some help in repairing my Samsung Television. The TV doesn't come on. The symptoms are as follows:
1. Press On button. Blue ring shows up around button. Green LED flashes. clicking is heard, but television doesn't come on.
2. This happens two more times before all the front panel indicators start flashing.
3. None of the cooling fans come on.
4. Measured high voltage 300Vdc and it comes up initially but goes away. It comes back and goes away two more times as TV tries to come on.
5. Tried to measure 12Vdc on main power supply, which I think should power the fans. Measures 0 Vdc. The 5 Vdc standby is present.

Does this sound like the main power supply is bad? Looking for a way to test the power supply. I would think that the low dc voltages should be present after the power button is pressed.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks in advance,
Bryan

Soon...pic of my measly setup
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post #15706 of 15875 Old 07-08-2014, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew888 View Post
This sounds just like the issue I had a few years ago. Two days before the warranty expired I had these symptoms and Samsung's website pointed me to a local authorized repair shop. They replaced the power supply and all was well until 12 months later then the same thing. This time I pleaded with them to fix it right as I was now paying out of pocket. They told me they would upgrade the power supply by replaced several capacitors (and maybe something else, don't know)with higher quality ones (we figured Samsung was cutting corners knowing the RPDLP's were going away) and several years later it's working great without issue.


The power supply for this is no longer available. I found a couple of used ones on e-bay. Do you know on your new power supply if it is a different part number or what value caps they put in. I'm wondering if it's higher voltage or different farad value. I've seen P/N's that end in a C rather than an A. BP44-01001C Thanks for your help. It's greatly appreciated. I had to replace the blue LED about one year ago. I sure don't want have to purchase another TV. Thanks again.
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post #15707 of 15875 Old 07-15-2014, 10:31 AM
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hey guys, i have been searching through this thread for a while, but can't quite seem to find a solution to my issue... i've owned my 61" 750 since january '09 (after an awesome heads up on an insane crutchfield sale from someone in this very thread), and ownership has been relatively problem free (knock on wood). over the past year or two, however, i've had a slight issue with audio. it will come and go, but is rather annoying, and is something i'd like to take care of. it's often times noticeable as the sound cutting in and out (or popping) during the boot up jingle, but is most noticeable when the volume seems to inexplicably cut from louder to quieter. it never cuts all the way out, but it is definitely noticeable, and it happens regardless of the input source (ps3, fios, chromecast streaming, etc).

i have to assume i am not the only one that's ever had to deal with this. thoughts??
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post #15708 of 15875 Old 07-15-2014, 08:59 PM
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I'm assuming you're using the internal speakers. The audio circuitry is all on the 'main board', so if there's a problem, that's where it would be. Have you tried taking the audio out, either the red/white RCA jacks, or the optical out, and connect it to an external amp/speaker system, to see if the problem persists?
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post #15709 of 15875 Old 07-16-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I'm assuming you're using the internal speakers. The audio circuitry is all on the 'main board', so if there's a problem, that's where it would be. Have you tried taking the audio out, either the red/white RCA jacks, or the optical out, and connect it to an external amp/speaker system, to see if the problem persists?
i am in fact referring to the internal speakers., and have not attempted any audio out options. the best option i can think of (as i am not a huge audio guy/do not have an external amp), is using the red and white audio out to a standard 3.1 computer speaker system that i have.

1) if audio out works fine, what do you think the issue is?

2) if audio out is the same as the internal speakers, what do you think the could be?
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post #15710 of 15875 Old 07-16-2014, 09:42 AM
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Menu Problems

I just had something weird going on with my 61a750. I put in a new AVR a few days ago, same brand newer model. I just started noticing that I lost many menu options on the TV. I can't see how the Amp would affect them.
I lost Sharpness, Color and tint for all inputs. Detailed settings, I lost black adjust, flesh tone and edge enhancement.
In Antenna only the channel list is lit up. Plug&Play some are also off. In picture size only color tone and size is lit up, in Size I only have Wide TV, Wide PC and 4:3 I used to have just scan, now its gone. I also noticed now I have a menu at the bottom with a ? that explains what each selection does. I never saw that before.
I also found out that if I turn off the video input device, like the tivo so no signal is coming in, everything comes back but is set to default, like everything at 50, color, contrast, tint, brightness.

I'm using the same input I always use HDMI/DVI PC for hdmi input.

If I select the TV then they all come back but when using HDMI3 they are all out.

Anyone have an idea whats going on? could I have accidentally set the TV to some strange mode?
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post #15711 of 15875 Old 07-16-2014, 11:02 AM
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If you are using 3D and selecting the PC setting for optimal 3D then what is happening is normal.
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post #15712 of 15875 Old 07-16-2014, 12:04 PM
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I have been using the HDMI3 since I got the TV 2008 I believe and the programs from all my sources are NOT in 3D. I never had that before this week. I am going through a 3D adapter from Direct TV box, but nothing else. but I haven't touched it.
Well I tried HDMI 1 and their back, but Direct TV doesn't work at all. So I connected it back to HDMI 3 but the direct TV is out. So I must have either a problem with the 3DA1 adapter of Direct TV or the cable. I will check them. Thanks
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post #15713 of 15875 Old 07-16-2014, 09:51 PM
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Only if you you use HDMI 3 and put it in the PC mode will you have the limited ability to adjust the settings. In all the other modes available on HDMI 3 their is no problem in adjusting all the settings.
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post #15714 of 15875 Old 07-16-2014, 10:00 PM
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PaulGo:
You are right, Although I always though it was in the PC mode, O did that when I bought the 3d adapter and its been that way since 2008. I also do not remember seeing that bar at the bottom showing what each menu selection does? Anyway thank you.
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post #15715 of 15875 Old 07-18-2014, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfmeng22 View Post
i am in fact referring to the internal speakers., and have not attempted any audio out options. the best option i can think of (as i am not a huge audio guy/do not have an external amp), is using the red and white audio out to a standard 3.1 computer speaker system that i have.

1) if audio out works fine, what do you think the issue is?

2) if audio out is the same as the internal speakers, what do you think the could be?
guys... i know this got somewhat lost in the shuffle, but can anyone shed any light onto this at all for me?
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post #15716 of 15875 Old 07-18-2014, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfmeng22 View Post
guys... i know this got somewhat lost in the shuffle, but can anyone shed any light onto this at all for me?
The only replaceable board for this problem is the "main board", BP94-02326A or BP96-02089A. I suppose there is a vanishingly small chance that the speakers or wiring could be intermittent.
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post #15717 of 15875 Old 07-21-2014, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
...I used to have just scan, now its gone.
If the TV has to upscale the video to render it at 1080p, then 'just scan' will disappear. Maybe you're feeding the TV 720p?
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post #15718 of 15875 Old 07-21-2014, 11:24 AM
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I do not think so. As the last poster said I was using PC mode, so I turned PC mode off and now its back, however I always though it was in PC mode for 3D. I checked the Direct TV and its outputting 1080.
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post #15719 of 15875 Old 08-07-2014, 10:37 PM
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I'm confused. I have a Samsung BD-P3600 1080p Blu-Ray Disc Player connected to a Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP TV.
My standard DVDs are either in the center of the screen with black bars on all 4 sides (Last of the Mohicans) or run the entire width of the screen with black bars on the top and bottom (Gladiator).
Is this normal upconverting?
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post #15720 of 15875 Old 08-08-2014, 01:18 PM
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Samsung 61A750 For Sale

I have 61A750 for sale. I purchased it off Big River in Dec. 2008. And the manufacturing date is Dec. 2008. It is a beautiful set. And I have never had one problem. It looks as good now as the day I bought it. We are looking for something bigger. I'm asking $825.00 or best offer. It is pick up only. I live on the the Seacoast of New Hampshire. rscottnh@gmail.com
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