2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 525 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #15721 of 15736 Old 08-09-2014, 06:19 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
Unhappy Replaced DLP chip on Samsung now have Horizonal Line

I replaced my chip on a HL61750A1FXZA . Now I have a 1 1/2 inch horizontal line on bottom of screen. Picture is beautiful no more white dots. What do I need to do? Thanks,Norm

Great Forum!
rocky273 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #15722 of 15736 Old 08-10-2014, 08:00 PM
Senior Member
 
cosmicvoid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Western WA, USA
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocky273 View Post
... Now I have a 1 1/2 inch horizontal line on bottom of screen...What do I need to do?
Adjust the centering:
2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ
cosmicvoid is offline  
post #15723 of 15736 Old 08-16-2014, 11:45 AM
Member
 
Laramie55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi All, I'm in the middle of changing my DLP chip on HL61A750 and find that there is NO way to remove the chip from the board. It seems to be a part of the board. Everything I have read thus far indicates a changeable chip but mine appears to be locked in a ceramic housing within the board.
Anyone run into or heard of this design? Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	002.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	77.0 KB
ID:	215073  
Laramie55 is offline  
post #15724 of 15736 Old 08-16-2014, 02:51 PM
Senior Member
 
cosmicvoid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Western WA, USA
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
I think you have to remove the printed circuit board from the metal shell, and then take the DLP chip out of its socket.

I'm too lazy to actually look up the procedure in the service manual.
cosmicvoid is offline  
post #15725 of 15736 Old 08-16-2014, 04:36 PM
Member
 
Laramie55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I think you have to remove the printed circuit board from the metal shell, and then take the DLP chip out of its socket.

I'm too lazy to actually look up the procedure in the service manual.
But you were smart enough to remember, thanks, that was it. They looked inseparable at first glance and none of the "how-to's" mentioned that step. Thanks again! Now for the re-assembly...
Laramie55 is offline  
post #15726 of 15736 Old 08-16-2014, 06:11 PM
Member
 
Laramie55's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Done! Not terribly difficult, just a lot of screws. Background doesn't look as dark either- is this due to simple difference in chips?
Well, thanks again.
Laramie55 is offline  
post #15727 of 15736 Old 08-17-2014, 09:19 AM
Senior Member
 
Drew888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Orange County, SoCal
Posts: 206
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Hello all, it's been a long time...

Two questions if you will.

My HL67A750 has worked flawlessly for the past 3+ years now but only yesterday I'm getting the hdcp Dish 890 error on some hd channels. I have the 1005 firmware and a search has only hinted to the hdmi cable. Is that all it is?

I still am enjoying this tv very much. I have 11k hours on it. What maintenance would you consider (cleaning, adj, maybe a calibration-I've been meaning to for years now). I personally am not experienced enough to notice anything beyond the obvious but only considering enjoying it for a few more years.

Soon...pic of my measly setup
Drew888 is offline  
post #15728 of 15736 Old 08-17-2014, 11:25 PM
Senior Member
 
cosmicvoid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Western WA, USA
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew888 View Post
... hinted to the hdmi cable. Is that all it is?
Could be. Two things to try: 1) a different hdmi cable, and 2) connect to a different hdmi port on the TV.
Quote:
What maintenance would you consider ...
Take off the back and vacuum out the dust, especially open the shell over the LED heatsinks and vacuum any dust. Be gentle and be sure not to get dust in the optics.
cosmicvoid is offline  
post #15729 of 15736 Old 08-24-2014, 02:39 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
I turned my TV on today and the screen is green. When I look at the menu I see Red and Green but no blue. Should I replace the Blue LED? I have heard several people say the RED has gone out but not many mention the blue or green LED. Any advice would be appreciated.
tony95i is offline  
post #15730 of 15736 Old 08-25-2014, 12:54 AM
Senior Member
 
cosmicvoid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Western WA, USA
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony95i View Post
I turned my TV on today and the screen is green. When I look at the menu I see Red and Green but no blue...
If the blue LED is not working, everything will look yellow-ish (i.e. red + green).

I don't know whether the most common LED failure is red, but I've seen mention of blue being replaced a few times. When you open up the back of the set and pull out the optical chassis, you can test each LED with a 9v battery (assuming you're willing to try your own repair).
cosmicvoid is offline  
post #15731 of 15736 Old 08-29-2014, 04:36 PM
Member
 
mrbrian200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 52
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
There is a link to a source for the service manual here:
2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ

The manual has a list of the default values for the service menu settings, and the Option Byte can be used to reset various sections to factory default. Some of the parameters have brief descriptions in the list, but most don't.
I was very busy and just got around to looking at this. The items in the CCA menu were already set at the values shown in the SM. Set only looks good with CCA (off). --HOWEVER-- Leaving CCA off, what I did find was most of the values in the Desaturation Menu were waaay out of whack, as well as the values for "2nd" in the ADC result menu were all flip flopped in regards to gain vs offset (some firmwares label these values "L" and "H" and it's reordered. Somebody got confused? Possibly a factory tech or a applied firmware update didn't handle this properly? Problems with fleshtones, gamma, and crushed whites/elevated blacks (set looked "good" but not "right") are corrected. SMPTE 75 looks excellent with rough color calibration in blue mode easy. Minor tweaking in the user menu (hue/wb/saturation etc) I can get it to look positively fantastic now. NBC peacock looks right, Mcd's yellow looks right on. Foliage and blue skies look natural. Mabe a bit of red push noticeable on some graphics but it isn't so much as to be objectionable.

What does the color sensor do, and if this is bad could it the the reason turning ON CCA throws the set out of whack?

Edit: I figured out what the color sensor business is about - so nevermind in that regard. The light engine doesn't have a sticker with the coordinates (which I've seen inside one of my other/older bulb based sets). Lacking a colorimeter, I found where somebody on HDjunkies had posted CCA/Desaturation/WB values after calibration on their 67a750. I plugged in those values, turning on CCA now has a remarkably positive effect (instead of unwatchable). Anything beyond this would require a colorimeter, which I might pick up someday. What's the difference between the spyder4pro and the elite? Is it just the software/disk bundle?

Last edited by mrbrian200; Today at 01:23 PM. Reason: more info
mrbrian200 is offline  
post #15732 of 15736 Old 08-31-2014, 04:15 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 0
First post and I have a quick question. I'm guessing the IR sensor on my HL67A750 is going out but I'm not positive. Basically the only functions that work are changing the channel/volume (it's not a remote control issue). I can only turn off the TV by unplugging it or holding down the power button for literally 1-2 minutes (even the power button on the actual TV doesn't work).

Thanks in advance for any advice.
kamakazi5 is offline  
post #15733 of 15736 Old 08-31-2014, 07:22 PM
Senior Member
 
cosmicvoid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Western WA, USA
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbrian200 View Post
What does the color sensor do, and if this is bad could it the the reason turning ON CCA throws the set out of whack?
As I understand it, the color sensor is used by the control processor to check that the 3 LEDs are producing light. The sensor does not affect the light control values, per se. If it was bad, the set would not produce an image, as the processor would try restarting the LED test several times before shutting down.
cosmicvoid is offline  
post #15734 of 15736 Old 08-31-2014, 07:46 PM
Senior Member
 
cosmicvoid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Western WA, USA
Posts: 358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by kamakazi5 View Post
First post and I have a quick question. I'm guessing the IR sensor on my HL67A750 is going out but I'm not positive. Basically the only functions that work are changing the channel/volume (it's not a remote control issue). I can only turn off the TV by unplugging it or holding down the power button for literally 1-2 minutes (even the power button on the actual TV doesn't work).

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Those symptoms sound like something is overriding the IR signal. Perhaps one of the side panel buttons is "stuck" sending a continuous command, or your remote or another remote in the room is stuck, sending something to interfere.

This is a real PITA to troubleshoot because the IR sensor and the keypad board connect to the status indicator board inside the lower right corner of the case. I think you'd have to take the screen bezel off to access those connections, to try disconnecting one at a time to eliminate the source of the constant command.

Perhaps you could learn something by trying this:
1. block the IR sensor (bottom center of screen) with a book, or something thick enough to block IR, then see if the side buttons work.
2. repeatedly press all the side buttons to possibly unstick them. Then try the remote or each button.
cosmicvoid is offline  
post #15735 of 15736 Old Yesterday, 11:02 AM
Member
 
tribbler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I tried searching this thread, but wasn't able to come up with anything that still has a good link.

I'm looking for a a service manual for this monitor. I've found a couple that charge for downloading, but I'm a bit wary on their validity. I don't mind paying for a manual as long as its legitimate.

Does anyone have a digital version or can recommend a trustworthy site to download?


Thanks.
tribbler is offline  
post #15736 of 15736 Old Today, 10:32 AM
Newbie
 
agentrnge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I started to get a few stuck mirrors on my DLP chip. They are slowly accumulating. Maybe one or two new ones a week. For the last 2 months. I was getting ready to order a new chip when they get annoying enough. ( almost there ). But now I have another problem. 3 or 4 times in the last month when turning the TV on, there will be the start-up chime, center blue logo is illuminated, but screen is black/off. Sound will work. 3 LEDs on front panel are not lit. Power the unit off and back on, and its fine, and has no other issues for a week or two.

So, is this a sign of something else about to fail? If so I probably will not bother fixing this TV anymore and just let it die when it dies and put up the working parts for sale.

I have previously replaced a blue LED (Twice) to find out it failed originally because of a faulty driver board, which I also replaced. When I did that first and 2nd round of parts refreshes, about 1-1.5 years ago,I also cleaned everything out ( fans/heatsinks ) and also replaced the old thermal paste sheets with arctic silver stuff. I did this on the 3 LEDs and the DMD/DLP chip.

So do I keep dumping money into this set? Or get ready to get some new hopefully not mediocre LCD setup?
agentrnge is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

Tags
Samsung

User Tag List



Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off