2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 525 - AVS Forum
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post #15721 of 15746 Old 08-09-2014, 06:19 PM
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Unhappy Replaced DLP chip on Samsung now have Horizonal Line

I replaced my chip on a HL61750A1FXZA . Now I have a 1 1/2 inch horizontal line on bottom of screen. Picture is beautiful no more white dots. What do I need to do? Thanks,Norm

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post #15722 of 15746 Old 08-10-2014, 08:00 PM
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... Now I have a 1 1/2 inch horizontal line on bottom of screen...What do I need to do?
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2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ
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post #15723 of 15746 Old 08-16-2014, 11:45 AM
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Hi All, I'm in the middle of changing my DLP chip on HL61A750 and find that there is NO way to remove the chip from the board. It seems to be a part of the board. Everything I have read thus far indicates a changeable chip but mine appears to be locked in a ceramic housing within the board.
Anyone run into or heard of this design? Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks.
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post #15724 of 15746 Old 08-16-2014, 02:51 PM
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I think you have to remove the printed circuit board from the metal shell, and then take the DLP chip out of its socket.

I'm too lazy to actually look up the procedure in the service manual.
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post #15725 of 15746 Old 08-16-2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I think you have to remove the printed circuit board from the metal shell, and then take the DLP chip out of its socket.

I'm too lazy to actually look up the procedure in the service manual.
But you were smart enough to remember, thanks, that was it. They looked inseparable at first glance and none of the "how-to's" mentioned that step. Thanks again! Now for the re-assembly...
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post #15726 of 15746 Old 08-16-2014, 06:11 PM
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Done! Not terribly difficult, just a lot of screws. Background doesn't look as dark either- is this due to simple difference in chips?
Well, thanks again.
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post #15727 of 15746 Old 08-17-2014, 09:19 AM
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Hello all, it's been a long time...

Two questions if you will.

My HL67A750 has worked flawlessly for the past 3+ years now but only yesterday I'm getting the hdcp Dish 890 error on some hd channels. I have the 1005 firmware and a search has only hinted to the hdmi cable. Is that all it is?

I still am enjoying this tv very much. I have 11k hours on it. What maintenance would you consider (cleaning, adj, maybe a calibration-I've been meaning to for years now). I personally am not experienced enough to notice anything beyond the obvious but only considering enjoying it for a few more years.

Soon...pic of my measly setup
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post #15728 of 15746 Old 08-17-2014, 11:25 PM
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... hinted to the hdmi cable. Is that all it is?
Could be. Two things to try: 1) a different hdmi cable, and 2) connect to a different hdmi port on the TV.
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What maintenance would you consider ...
Take off the back and vacuum out the dust, especially open the shell over the LED heatsinks and vacuum any dust. Be gentle and be sure not to get dust in the optics.
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post #15729 of 15746 Old 08-24-2014, 02:39 PM
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I turned my TV on today and the screen is green. When I look at the menu I see Red and Green but no blue. Should I replace the Blue LED? I have heard several people say the RED has gone out but not many mention the blue or green LED. Any advice would be appreciated.
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post #15730 of 15746 Old 08-25-2014, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tony95i View Post
I turned my TV on today and the screen is green. When I look at the menu I see Red and Green but no blue...
If the blue LED is not working, everything will look yellow-ish (i.e. red + green).

I don't know whether the most common LED failure is red, but I've seen mention of blue being replaced a few times. When you open up the back of the set and pull out the optical chassis, you can test each LED with a 9v battery (assuming you're willing to try your own repair).
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post #15731 of 15746 Old 08-29-2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
There is a link to a source for the service manual here:
2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ

The manual has a list of the default values for the service menu settings, and the Option Byte can be used to reset various sections to factory default. Some of the parameters have brief descriptions in the list, but most don't.
I was very busy and just got around to looking at this. The items in the CCA menu were already set at the values shown in the SM. Set only looks good with CCA (off). --HOWEVER-- Leaving CCA off, what I did find was most of the values in the Desaturation Menu were waaay out of whack, as well as the values for "2nd" in the ADC result menu were all flip flopped in regards to gain vs offset (some firmwares label these values "L" and "H" and it's reordered. Somebody got confused? Possibly a factory tech or a applied firmware update didn't handle this properly? Problems with fleshtones, gamma, and crushed whites/elevated blacks (set looked "good" but not "right") are corrected. SMPTE 75 looks excellent with rough color calibration in blue mode easy. Minor tweaking in the user menu (hue/wb/saturation etc) I can get it to look positively fantastic now. NBC peacock looks right, Mcd's yellow looks right on. Foliage and blue skies look natural. Mabe a bit of red push noticeable on some graphics but it isn't so much as to be objectionable.

What does the color sensor do, and if this is bad could it the the reason turning ON CCA throws the set out of whack?

Edit: I figured out what the color sensor business is about - so nevermind in that regard. The light engine doesn't have a sticker with the coordinates (which I've seen inside one of my other/older bulb based sets). Lacking a colorimeter, I found where somebody on HDjunkies had posted CCA/Desaturation/WB values after calibration on their 67a750. I plugged in those values, turning on CCA now has a remarkably positive effect (instead of unwatchable). Anything beyond this would require a colorimeter, which I might pick up someday. What's the difference between the spyder4pro and the elite? Is it just the software/disk bundle?

Last edited by mrbrian200; 09-02-2014 at 01:23 PM. Reason: more info
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post #15732 of 15746 Old 08-31-2014, 04:15 PM
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First post and I have a quick question. I'm guessing the IR sensor on my HL67A750 is going out but I'm not positive. Basically the only functions that work are changing the channel/volume (it's not a remote control issue). I can only turn off the TV by unplugging it or holding down the power button for literally 1-2 minutes (even the power button on the actual TV doesn't work).

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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post #15733 of 15746 Old 08-31-2014, 07:22 PM
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What does the color sensor do, and if this is bad could it the the reason turning ON CCA throws the set out of whack?
As I understand it, the color sensor is used by the control processor to check that the 3 LEDs are producing light. The sensor does not affect the light control values, per se. If it was bad, the set would not produce an image, as the processor would try restarting the LED test several times before shutting down.
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post #15734 of 15746 Old 08-31-2014, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by kamakazi5 View Post
First post and I have a quick question. I'm guessing the IR sensor on my HL67A750 is going out but I'm not positive. Basically the only functions that work are changing the channel/volume (it's not a remote control issue). I can only turn off the TV by unplugging it or holding down the power button for literally 1-2 minutes (even the power button on the actual TV doesn't work).

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Those symptoms sound like something is overriding the IR signal. Perhaps one of the side panel buttons is "stuck" sending a continuous command, or your remote or another remote in the room is stuck, sending something to interfere.

This is a real PITA to troubleshoot because the IR sensor and the keypad board connect to the status indicator board inside the lower right corner of the case. I think you'd have to take the screen bezel off to access those connections, to try disconnecting one at a time to eliminate the source of the constant command.

Perhaps you could learn something by trying this:
1. block the IR sensor (bottom center of screen) with a book, or something thick enough to block IR, then see if the side buttons work.
2. repeatedly press all the side buttons to possibly unstick them. Then try the remote or each button.
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post #15735 of 15746 Old 09-01-2014, 11:02 AM
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I tried searching this thread, but wasn't able to come up with anything that still has a good link.

I'm looking for a a service manual for this monitor. I've found a couple that charge for downloading, but I'm a bit wary on their validity. I don't mind paying for a manual as long as its legitimate.

Does anyone have a digital version or can recommend a trustworthy site to download?


Thanks.
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post #15736 of 15746 Old 09-02-2014, 10:32 AM
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I started to get a few stuck mirrors on my DLP chip. They are slowly accumulating. Maybe one or two new ones a week. For the last 2 months. I was getting ready to order a new chip when they get annoying enough. ( almost there ). But now I have another problem. 3 or 4 times in the last month when turning the TV on, there will be the start-up chime, center blue logo is illuminated, but screen is black/off. Sound will work. 3 LEDs on front panel are not lit. Power the unit off and back on, and its fine, and has no other issues for a week or two.

So, is this a sign of something else about to fail? If so I probably will not bother fixing this TV anymore and just let it die when it dies and put up the working parts for sale.

I have previously replaced a blue LED (Twice) to find out it failed originally because of a faulty driver board, which I also replaced. When I did that first and 2nd round of parts refreshes, about 1-1.5 years ago,I also cleaned everything out ( fans/heatsinks ) and also replaced the old thermal paste sheets with arctic silver stuff. I did this on the 3 LEDs and the DMD/DLP chip.

So do I keep dumping money into this set? Or get ready to get some new hopefully not mediocre LCD setup?
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post #15737 of 15746 Old 09-02-2014, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tribbler View Post
I'm looking for a a service manual for this monitor. ... can recommend a trustworthy site to download?
Don't know about "trustworthy", but there is a post about 4 months old that has a link to the service manual, and the link appears to still work.

2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ
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post #15738 of 15746 Old 09-03-2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tony95i View Post
I turned my TV on today and the screen is green. When I look at the menu I see Red and Green but no blue. Should I replace the Blue LED? I have heard several people say the RED has gone out but not many mention the blue or green LED. Any advice would be appreciated.
This is what the picture looks like without the various colors working:



This is just a visual aid. You can open the set up and test the individual LEDs with a 9v battery as previously mentioned.
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post #15739 of 15746 Old 09-03-2014, 06:12 PM
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Don't know about "trustworthy", but there is a post about 4 months old that has a link to the service manual, and the link appears to still work.

2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ

THANKS!! This is a huge thread. Thank you for helping me out. I hope to keep this thing running as long as I can.
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post #15740 of 15746 Old 09-06-2014, 02:52 PM
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Well, my first white dot appeared in the middle of the screen this past week. I could not stop looking at that tiny white dot! Came immediately to this thread and diagnosed the problem and I've ordered the replacement chip from Shop Jimmy. I've watched a few of the videos and I've downloaded the shop manual, so I feel somewhat comfortable that I can fix this problem before it drives me nuts. One question for you folks that have replaced yours, did you completely removed the light engine assembly, or did you do the repair, without removing the assembly, like shown here? http://tso.bzb.us/2013/01/replacing-...-hl61a750.html Overall, I've had the set since June of 2008 and in that time I did have one warranty issue that was covered under an extended warranty I bought from Texas Tapeworks. Set is used many many hours each and every day, so I feel I have received my months worth from it.
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post #15741 of 15746 Old 09-06-2014, 03:45 PM
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Update on my power-up issues. Today I fired it up, the start-up chime was there, blue logo illuminated, but no picture. When I did anything with the remote, one LED on the front panel would flash with each press. I didnt power cycle it, I just kept pressing remote buttons, like volume, channel, menu. Then the TV seemed to re-start on its own. It didnt power off, there was no power-down chime. There was a 2nd power-up chime maybe 6-7 seconds later and then the display was lit up. I watched it for about an hour without any more issues. Turned it on again a few hours later no issues. So does that tell anyone anything?

Would a marginal DMD/DLP chip cause start-up issues like this? If it was a power supply issue I woudl expect more contstant problems or even things to turn off after a while. The set is on for 5-6 hours a day 5-6 days a week. There are no "failure codes" on the front panel LEDs. all dark while its in this limbo mode, until it finishes starting up, then normal.

Tarpon65: Last year when I was just cleaning and re-applying thermal paste on my DMD I did it as in the post you linked. I did not pull the light engine out for that. Its no more difficult than installing/changing a PC CPU if you happen to have ever done that.
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post #15742 of 15746 Old 09-12-2014, 02:38 PM
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I did get the dmd chip replaced with little trouble. Boy was the inside of my set dirty! One issue though is I have a 1" wide shadow running vertically up the left side of the screen and i can see very faint blue,yellow, and red line along with the shadow. I may pull out the chip tomorrow and reset it, but I know i put it in snug. Could this be a bad chip?

EDIT: Issue was fixed by playing with the horizontal adjustment screw this morning. While I had the back opened, I removed the heatsink and applied new thermal paste.


Last edited by Tarpon65; 09-13-2014 at 08:22 AM. Reason: Issue fixed
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post #15743 of 15746 Old 09-14-2014, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
Those symptoms sound like something is overriding the IR signal. Perhaps one of the side panel buttons is "stuck" sending a continuous command, or your remote or another remote in the room is stuck, sending something to interfere.

This is a real PITA to troubleshoot because the IR sensor and the keypad board connect to the status indicator board inside the lower right corner of the case. I think you'd have to take the screen bezel off to access those connections, to try disconnecting one at a time to eliminate the source of the constant command.

Perhaps you could learn something by trying this:
1. block the IR sensor (bottom center of screen) with a book, or something thick enough to block IR, then see if the side buttons work.
2. repeatedly press all the side buttons to possibly unstick them. Then try the remote or each button.
Ok, it took me a while with moving to get a chance to look into this again. I tried disconnecting each item individually and testing but no success. Before hooking up anything else in my new place I also tried to block the front and just try the side buttons but nothing different there either.

My next question would be if it's possible that the power supply could somehow be interfering in some way (if I unplug the TV and plug it back in the tv automatically turns on without me pressing anything)? I'm not sure if it's related but there appears to be a set of 4 capacitors that are going bad. It will not let me post pictures yet but you should be able to copy/paste this to see it.

img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kamakazi5/IMG_20140915_241950726_HDR_zpsynkvam5m.jpg

It's hard tell but they are slightly bulging and two seem to be leaking a little bit of black stuff. Any idea what these go to?
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post #15744 of 15746 Old Yesterday, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kamakazi5 View Post
My next question would be if it's possible that the power supply could somehow be interfering in some way (if I unplug the TV and plug it back in the tv automatically turns on without me pressing anything)? I'm not sure if it's related but there appears to be a set of 4 capacitors that are going bad. It will not let me post pictures yet but you should be able to copy/paste this to see it.

img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kamakazi5/IMG_20140915_241950726_HDR_zpsynkvam5m.jpg

It's hard tell but they are slightly bulging and two seem to be leaking a little bit of black stuff. Any idea what these go to?

Those bad boys need replacing. Bad caps can really screw up an otherwise good power supply. I was introduced to this issue with motherboards years ago. I just developed a white spot this evening so I think I'll be looking into replacing the DMD. While I'm in there, I'll be cleaning things out. One of the things I'll be looking at and replacing are capacitors that are of the typical cheap manufacturers.
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post #15745 of 15746 Old Yesterday, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kamakazi5 View Post
img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/kamakazi5/IMG_20140915_241950726_HDR_zpsynkvam5m.jpg

It's hard tell but they are slightly bulging and two seem to be leaking a little bit of black stuff. Any idea what these go to?
That is the sub-smps board, which generates the high current +16V for the LED driver board. Unless that board is loading down the main power supply, it doesn't seem like it should affect the control board.
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post #15746 of 15746 Old Today, 08:33 PM
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I'm not good at soldering and I still have no idea about what could be causing my main issue so I may dedicate this TV to cable only and use my other TV for everything else. It had a good run but the only other thing I can think is to take into a repair shop or just replace it. I do appreciate the help though.
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