2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 527 - AVS Forum
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post #15781 of 15793 Old 10-15-2014, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyBri View Post
... I was just trying to get it back to like new before trying to sell it...
Can you turn the set off with the front panel button or the remote? If so, then you can try entering the service menu from the 'off" state (Mute-1-8-2-Power). There you can (presumably) set everything back to factory default.

If you have to do extensive troubleshooting and replace the main board, it may not be worth your trouble. I don't know how much these sets would fetch now, as people are so into "thin" TVs.
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post #15782 of 15793 Old 10-15-2014, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I'd be curious to see what you get by feeding a color bar test signal into one of the inputs (like from a PC via hdmi) or a jpg image from a flash drive via USB...
I don't really know enough to try the first one, but I connected a flash drive to the TV that had a jpg on it to test. Even that had a blue tint to it. I think at this point I'm just going to have a service tech come and figure it out, even though I was really hoping to avoid a service fee. I don't have the resources to do any testing on the physical boards and such without replacing them one by one and hoping I get lucky sooner rather than later. The way my luck usually works, it'd be the very last thing and at that point I'd have spent enough to almost have just bought a new TV.
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post #15783 of 15793 Old 10-15-2014, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Alstott View Post
... I think at this point I'm just going to have a service tech come and figure it out...
The way my luck usually works, it'd be the very last thing and at that point I'd have spent enough to almost have just bought a new TV.
Probably not one with as good a picture quality.

But yeah, I know what you mean. One thing to consider is that replacement boards for these sets are hard to find nowadays; the service dude may not be able to find replacements either, assuming he determines the problem.

BTW, I'm still a little confused about you saying the colors were OK in service mode. I have not gone into service mode myself, so I'm not familiar with what the test patterns contain. Are you sure that none of the service test screens had excessive blue? It just seems peculiar that messing with the DMD would cause this problem.

As a last gasp, you could do a reset to factory defaults (in option byte) to see if that helps.
FWIW, the main board would be the first thing to try replacing, and there is one on ebay for 175, and elsewhere a few for about 240.
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post #15784 of 15793 Old 10-16-2014, 04:54 PM
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BTW, I'm still a little confused about you saying the colors were OK in service mode. I have not gone into service mode myself, so I'm not familiar with what the test patterns contain.
I made a small minute-and-a-half video with my crappy phone and uploaded to YouTube to illustrate the test patterns in service mode. Apparently I can't post a URL until I hit 5 posts though. (WTF? That seems a little overkill trying to avoid the bots and spammers lol.) Just paste this link path after the .com and hopefully it should come up:

watch?v=ItZYx3udBlc&list=UUeQEffYONmErISK4iw-4bZQ&index=1
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post #15785 of 15793 Old Yesterday, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Alstott View Post
I made a small minute-and-a-half video
So it looks like the blue problem is present in the service test screens, although its not so obvious in the color and checkerboard tests. This implies that its either a blue bias/offset in the settings data, or a hardware issue in the main board, DMD board, or LED driver.

I don't see a simple fix, unless the factory reset option clears up the settings.
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post #15786 of 15793 Old Yesterday, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
So it looks like the blue problem is present in the service test screens, although its not so obvious in the color and checkerboard tests. This implies that its either a blue bias/offset in the settings data, or a hardware issue in the main board, DMD board, or LED driver.

I don't see a simple fix, unless the factory reset option clears up the settings.
My kid and friends messing with tv and now the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away......shows the component 2 in transparent window. Anyone know how to set or reset so that bubble goes away?
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post #15787 of 15793 Old Yesterday, 01:47 PM
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My kid and friends messing with tv and now the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away......shows the component 2 in transparent window. Anyone know how to set or reset so that bubble goes away?
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post #15788 of 15793 Old Yesterday, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Groton View Post
My kid and friends messing with tv and now the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away......shows the component 2 in transparent window. Anyone know how to set or reset so that bubble goes away?
sorry, accidentlreplied to previous post...newbie, I am.
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post #15789 of 15793 Old Yesterday, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Groton View Post
... the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away.....
What have you tried so far? Do you have control of the set via the buttons or remote control?
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post #15790 of 15793 Old Today, 07:07 AM
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What have you tried so far? Do you have control of the set via the buttons or remote control?
I have multiple remotes (DTV, Logitech, and Samsung) and control buttons on tv. I'm not having any luck getting into any type of menu options on tv using either remote of the buttons on tv. I was able to get into change aspect/res/inputs/etc. from remotes. I'm assuming there is a way to disable the bubble or have it go away after a few seconds.

Thanks !
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post #15791 of 15793 Old Today, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Groton View Post
... I'm assuming there is a way to disable the bubble or have it go away after a few seconds.
The 'bubble' is a function of the input select process, and should go away automatically. There is no way to 'disable' it.

Try unplugging the set for a minute, and then plug in again, and see if you regain normal control of functions.

Are you able to turn the set off (standby) with the front-center button or remote? That will show the red led in the lower-right corner. If so, then you could try entering the service menu to issue a 'user reset' by doing this:
Code:
     1. from the off (standby) state, press Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power, on the remote.
     2. the set should turn on and enter the service menu. Be very careful here.
     3. cursor up/down to 'Option Byte' , if its not already highlited, and press 'select' (the middle 'enter' button ).
     4. cursor down to 'User Reset' (4th item) and press 'select' (enter) button.
     5. the 'User Reset' box will show in upper left corner, press 'select' (enter) button.
     6. the set will turn off, and you may have to do your settings all from scratch (channel scan, picture settings, etc.). Since you can't enter a menu in your current situation, you won't be able to write down your settings before doing this.

Last edited by cosmicvoid; Today at 12:49 PM.
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post #15792 of 15793 Old Today, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
This implies that its either a blue bias/offset in the settings data, or a hardware issue in the main board, DMD board, or LED driver.
Yeah, I'm guessing hardware issue is all it can be since none of the blue settings look off and the factory reset did nothing. I should be getting a call tomorrow to set up a service appointment. Still not looking forward to shelling out more money for it though. =/

Thanks again for the assistance!
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post #15793 of 15793 Old Today, 09:01 PM
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My adventures in HL67A750 repair...

I have a 67", purchased in '08, and it has performed flawlessly for 6 years ( and still works fine). Been reading this forum since '08, and I have become familiar with most of the reported problems. A few years ago I bought a set of replacement modules, while they were still available and cheap, to be prepared for my set's demise.

This past spring, I contacted a fellow thru this forum, who lives nearby, about his dead HL67A750, and agreed to take it off his hands for a pittance. Its been sitting on my workbench all summer, and I finally got the motivation to work on it this weekend. The symptom: no picture, reboots 3 times, then the 3 status leds flash. Each reboot produces a short (50ms or so) flicker of white light on the screen, barely visible. The guy said he replaced the power supplies, which didn't help, then gave up.

I tested the R, G, and B LEDs, all are good.
The sub-SMPS supply produces 16V to the LED driver, so I assume the supplies are good (since the main board is operating).
So I replace the LED driver, does not fix the problem.
So I replace the DMD board (keeping the original DMD chip), does not fix the problem.
So I pull out the main board + main SMPS combo, to swap the main board. I notice one of the SMPS big electrolytic caps has a slight bulge, so I swap the main SMPS board first. Bingo, problem fixed.

In retrospect, now I understand the problem. The main SMPS provides low voltage to the main (control) board, and high voltage (300+ volts) to the sub-SMPS. The bad caps in the HV supply to the LED driver cause the 300V to fold when the high current draw from the LEDs begins, killing the 16V output. The control board senses the loss of light and reboots.

I guess the previous owner didn't replace the main SMPS, or put in a bad one. Too bad I replaced the DMD board first, as that means I had to go thru the optical alignment, which is a chore, and requires service menu steps to reprogram the CCA data. Live & learn. I discovered the tilt (image rotation) procedure, which I wasn't aware of before. Glad that I have the service manual to guide me.

Now I have a working spare HL67A750, and no place to put it .
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