2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 527 - AVS Forum
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post #15781 of 15810 Old 10-15-2014, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyBri View Post
... I was just trying to get it back to like new before trying to sell it...
Can you turn the set off with the front panel button or the remote? If so, then you can try entering the service menu from the 'off" state (Mute-1-8-2-Power). There you can (presumably) set everything back to factory default.

If you have to do extensive troubleshooting and replace the main board, it may not be worth your trouble. I don't know how much these sets would fetch now, as people are so into "thin" TVs.
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post #15782 of 15810 Old 10-15-2014, 08:34 PM
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I'd be curious to see what you get by feeding a color bar test signal into one of the inputs (like from a PC via hdmi) or a jpg image from a flash drive via USB...
I don't really know enough to try the first one, but I connected a flash drive to the TV that had a jpg on it to test. Even that had a blue tint to it. I think at this point I'm just going to have a service tech come and figure it out, even though I was really hoping to avoid a service fee. I don't have the resources to do any testing on the physical boards and such without replacing them one by one and hoping I get lucky sooner rather than later. The way my luck usually works, it'd be the very last thing and at that point I'd have spent enough to almost have just bought a new TV.
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post #15783 of 15810 Old 10-15-2014, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Alstott View Post
... I think at this point I'm just going to have a service tech come and figure it out...
The way my luck usually works, it'd be the very last thing and at that point I'd have spent enough to almost have just bought a new TV.
Probably not one with as good a picture quality.

But yeah, I know what you mean. One thing to consider is that replacement boards for these sets are hard to find nowadays; the service dude may not be able to find replacements either, assuming he determines the problem.

BTW, I'm still a little confused about you saying the colors were OK in service mode. I have not gone into service mode myself, so I'm not familiar with what the test patterns contain. Are you sure that none of the service test screens had excessive blue? It just seems peculiar that messing with the DMD would cause this problem.

As a last gasp, you could do a reset to factory defaults (in option byte) to see if that helps.
FWIW, the main board would be the first thing to try replacing, and there is one on ebay for 175, and elsewhere a few for about 240.
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post #15784 of 15810 Old 10-16-2014, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
BTW, I'm still a little confused about you saying the colors were OK in service mode. I have not gone into service mode myself, so I'm not familiar with what the test patterns contain.
I made a small minute-and-a-half video with my crappy phone and uploaded to YouTube to illustrate the test patterns in service mode. Apparently I can't post a URL until I hit 5 posts though. (WTF? That seems a little overkill trying to avoid the bots and spammers lol.) Just paste this link path after the .com and hopefully it should come up:

watch?v=ItZYx3udBlc&list=UUeQEffYONmErISK4iw-4bZQ&index=1
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post #15785 of 15810 Old 10-18-2014, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh Alstott View Post
I made a small minute-and-a-half video
So it looks like the blue problem is present in the service test screens, although its not so obvious in the color and checkerboard tests. This implies that its either a blue bias/offset in the settings data, or a hardware issue in the main board, DMD board, or LED driver.

I don't see a simple fix, unless the factory reset option clears up the settings.
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post #15786 of 15810 Old 10-18-2014, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
So it looks like the blue problem is present in the service test screens, although its not so obvious in the color and checkerboard tests. This implies that its either a blue bias/offset in the settings data, or a hardware issue in the main board, DMD board, or LED driver.

I don't see a simple fix, unless the factory reset option clears up the settings.
My kid and friends messing with tv and now the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away......shows the component 2 in transparent window. Anyone know how to set or reset so that bubble goes away?
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post #15787 of 15810 Old 10-18-2014, 01:47 PM
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My kid and friends messing with tv and now the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away......shows the component 2 in transparent window. Anyone know how to set or reset so that bubble goes away?
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post #15788 of 15810 Old 10-18-2014, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Groton View Post
My kid and friends messing with tv and now the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away......shows the component 2 in transparent window. Anyone know how to set or reset so that bubble goes away?
sorry, accidentlreplied to previous post...newbie, I am.
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post #15789 of 15810 Old 10-18-2014, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Groton View Post
... the little bubble in upper left hand corner will not go away.....
What have you tried so far? Do you have control of the set via the buttons or remote control?
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post #15790 of 15810 Old 10-19-2014, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
What have you tried so far? Do you have control of the set via the buttons or remote control?
I have multiple remotes (DTV, Logitech, and Samsung) and control buttons on tv. I'm not having any luck getting into any type of menu options on tv using either remote of the buttons on tv. I was able to get into change aspect/res/inputs/etc. from remotes. I'm assuming there is a way to disable the bubble or have it go away after a few seconds.

Thanks !
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post #15791 of 15810 Old 10-19-2014, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Groton View Post
... I'm assuming there is a way to disable the bubble or have it go away after a few seconds.
The 'bubble' is a function of the input select process, and should go away automatically. There is no way to 'disable' it.

Try unplugging the set for a minute, and then plug in again, and see if you regain normal control of functions.

Are you able to turn the set off (standby) with the front-center button or remote? That will show the red led in the lower-right corner. If so, then you could try entering the service menu to issue a 'user reset' by doing this:
Code:
     1. from the off (standby) state, press Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power, on the remote.
     2. the set should turn on and enter the service menu. Be very careful here.
     3. cursor up/down to 'Option Byte' , if its not already highlited, and press 'select' (the middle 'enter' button ).
     4. cursor down to 'User Reset' (4th item) and press 'select' (enter) button.
     5. the 'User Reset' box will show in upper left corner, press 'select' (enter) button.
     6. the set will turn off, and you may have to do your settings all from scratch (channel scan, picture settings, etc.). Since you can't enter a menu in your current situation, you won't be able to write down your settings before doing this.

Last edited by cosmicvoid; 10-19-2014 at 12:49 PM.
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post #15792 of 15810 Old 10-19-2014, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
This implies that its either a blue bias/offset in the settings data, or a hardware issue in the main board, DMD board, or LED driver.
Yeah, I'm guessing hardware issue is all it can be since none of the blue settings look off and the factory reset did nothing. I should be getting a call tomorrow to set up a service appointment. Still not looking forward to shelling out more money for it though. =/

Thanks again for the assistance!
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post #15793 of 15810 Old 10-19-2014, 09:01 PM
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My adventures in HL67A750 repair...

I have a 67", purchased in '08, and it has performed flawlessly for 6 years ( and still works fine). Been reading this forum since '08, and I have become familiar with most of the reported problems. A few years ago I bought a set of replacement modules, while they were still available and cheap, to be prepared for my set's demise.

This past spring, I contacted a fellow thru this forum, who lives nearby, about his dead HL67A750, and agreed to take it off his hands for a pittance. Its been sitting on my workbench all summer, and I finally got the motivation to work on it this weekend. The symptom: no picture, reboots 3 times, then the 3 status leds flash. Each reboot produces a short (50ms or so) flicker of white light on the screen, barely visible. The guy said he replaced the power supplies, which didn't help, then gave up.

I tested the R, G, and B LEDs, all are good.
The sub-SMPS supply produces 16V to the LED driver, so I assume the supplies are good (since the main board is operating).
So I replace the LED driver, does not fix the problem.
So I replace the DMD board (keeping the original DMD chip), does not fix the problem.
So I pull out the main board + main SMPS combo, to swap the main board. I notice one of the SMPS big electrolytic caps has a slight bulge, so I swap the main SMPS board first. Bingo, problem fixed.

In retrospect, now I understand the problem. The main SMPS provides low voltage to the main (control) board, and high voltage (300+ volts) to the sub-SMPS. The bad caps in the HV supply to the LED driver cause the 300V to fold when the high current draw from the LEDs begins, killing the 16V output. The control board senses the loss of light and reboots.

I guess the previous owner didn't replace the main SMPS, or put in a bad one. Too bad I replaced the DMD board first, as that means I had to go thru the optical alignment, which is a chore, and requires service menu steps to reprogram the CCA data. Live & learn. I discovered the tilt (image rotation) procedure, which I wasn't aware of before. Glad that I have the service manual to guide me.

Now I have a working spare HL67A750, and no place to put it .
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post #15794 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 08:37 AM
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cosmicvoid,

I have a feeling my intermittent start-up issue might be power supply boards too.
I was just reading this: http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/...ld-really.html

I replaced a marginal driver board ( which caused an LED to fail ). I am wondering now if a marginal power supply upstream wore everything out down the line. Back when I initially did the replacement of the driver board, the power supply voltages were good that I recall.

To review my power recycle scenario. I turn it on form front panel or remote. Start up tones. Picture LEDs do light up, screen comes on for a second, then back to total black. Nothing.. ~30 seconds. Restarts again. Start up chime. This time everything comes up normal. Happens maybe 1 out 10 times the set is turned on.

My set has been mostly OK for a month or two, and then in the last week, the power recycle at first startup has occurred a few times. After one cycle its fine, and runs fine all day/many hours after without issue.

I'll be checking voltages tonight I think.

If it is a power supply board, ( or two ), AND the DMD chip I need to replace. I think I will call it quits on this set and sell off the otherwise good parts. This makes me sad. But I cant justify throwing another $300-350 into this set. After spending ~$400 last year. That's the price of a new similarly sized/spec'd plasma. Bleh.

Last edited by agentrnge; 10-20-2014 at 09:02 AM.
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post #15795 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 01:50 PM
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Hey all - I haven't posted here in forever (which is probably a good thing really). I originally had the left hand darkening problem way back when people began experiencing it - HL61750. Quick adjustment of the wheel and all is fine. I've had no other problems with this set since purchasing it back in '08. Now, however, I just moved to sunny Southern California, and my place is quite a bit brighter than my house in NJ. It might just be upgrade-itis, but I'm becoming jealous of friends' bright, vibrant panels and wondering if our sets ever looked that way. I know the LED's are certainly not going to lose much if any brightness, but could I be suffering from a dirty optical path? I've calibrated my set fairly well, but dark scenes in movies show little detail and trying to punch up brightness or gamma just kills black levels. So, is the TV showing its age, or should I crack it open and give it a serious white glove treatment?
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post #15796 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 04:18 PM
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As long as you're careful, it couldnt hurt to clean things out. Always advisable. But mostly for dust removal from heat sinks and fans. If there was enough uniform dust to make the picture dimmer I would imagine it would be blurry and splotchy and generally horrible in many other ways. The DLP sets are pretty bright. But the screen will pick up ambient light pretty well. Any light hitting the screen within ~45 degrees left and right is going to impact the output. These sets will not stand up to heavy daylight, even if its all mostly ambient light flooding totally perpendicular to the TV.

Does it still look purdy in the dark?

If I were to pick up a new TV today, I would buy an almost no frills, non-smart LG plasma. ~60" ~$7-800 I think. I just hate LCDs.

On a related note. I decided to keep sinking money into this set. I ordered the DMD chip earlier today. And will address possible power supply board issues if they come up.
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post #15797 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSheesh View Post
... jealous of friends' bright, vibrant panels ...
Probably because they still have the 'showroom' settings for maximum pop/wow/shazam. I would cringe to see programing on that set, I think. I prefer realistic looking screen setups.
Quote:
... wondering if our sets ever looked that way...
You could set the 'dynamic contrast' to HIGH, and the 'LED control' setting to MAX or AUTO. And set 'Edge Enhancement' to ON. I don't know how to put the set into 'Store Demo' mode; maybe doing a factory reset would allow you to do that.

Or you could put your set in a room that isn't blasted by sunlight, or invest in some blinds/drapes/shades so you don't have to use excessive brightness/contrast. Just my humble opinion.

I doubt there is any significant optical path darkening, but you could open one of the side ports, and peek in to see how dusty it is.
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post #15798 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by agentrnge View Post
... On a related note. I decided to keep sinking money into this set. I ordered the DMD chip earlier today. And will address possible power supply board issues if they come up.
Check the supply boards for bulging electrolytic caps, even a slight bulge is problematic. Replacing suspicious caps is pretty inexpensive. I've got some on order to repair the SMPS that I swapped out.
Quote:
I'll be checking voltages tonight I think.
The problem is not so much the 'static' voltage readings, but the 'dynamic' behavior when the load is applied at startup. That is hard to monitor, unless you have something like a storage o'scope or a chart recorder.

Last edited by cosmicvoid; 10-20-2014 at 04:39 PM. Reason: afterthought
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post #15799 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
Check the supply boards for bulging electrolytic caps.
a year/1.5 years ago when I checked over everything everything looked good, at least according to a non-professional eye. I will definitely be checking for that again.

I only have a cheapo analog multimeter. The up-side to that, is it reacts very fast. So I might be able to get some useful info watching the supply at startup. I dont know what time scale the fire-up surge is, or if it would be noticable in real time.

I decided since the DMD chip will be here in a few days/week. I will wait to open up and monkey with it until then. Dont want to waste two nights tinkering with the TV. lol. I will let you know what I find out if anything.

Maybe its just getting dirtier faster than it had and things are getting gunked up. Maybe a good cleaning is all she needs. (Its been about 10 feet from a litter box for the last 2 years ) The dust gets everywhere in the apartment. As I type this, I feel like that is almost certainly the issue with the DMD. Even though it was all clean and perfect ~18 months ago, its has 18 months of accumulated dust, possibly.

I think its time to pull my amplifier apart and clean that out thoroughly before it suffers any heat deaths too.

Last edited by agentrnge; 10-20-2014 at 05:50 PM. Reason: tightened up
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post #15800 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
The 'bubble' is a function of the input select process, and should go away automatically. There is no way to 'disable' it.

Try unplugging the set for a minute, and then plug in again, and see if you regain normal control of functions.

Are you able to turn the set off (standby) with the front-center button or remote? That will show the red led in the lower-right corner. If so, then you could try entering the service menu to issue a 'user reset' by doing this:
Code:
     1. from the off (standby) state, press Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power, on the remote.
     2. the set should turn on and enter the service menu. Be very careful here.
     3. cursor up/down to 'Option Byte' , if its not already highlited, and press 'select' (the middle 'enter' button ).
     4. cursor down to 'User Reset' (4th item) and press 'select' (enter) button.
     5. the 'User Reset' box will show in upper left corner, press 'select' (enter) button.
     6. the set will turn off, and you may have to do your settings all from scratch (channel scan, picture settings, etc.). Since you can't enter a menu in your current situation, you won't be able to write down your settings before doing this.
Thanks much....Pulled the plug for a few seconds and all is well again. Much appreciated.
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post #15801 of 15810 Old 10-20-2014, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by agentrnge View Post
... (Its been about 10 feet from a litter box for the last 2 years ) The dust gets everywhere in the apartment...
I know exactly what you mean . The optics are pretty well sealed, so that shouldn't be a problem. But the fans will pull/push dust thru the heatsinks. You can peek into the LED's heatsink area thru the middle fan, and from the right end (viewed from rear), and see if they're dusty without opening up the plastic shroud. Do you have the service manual (which shows which screws to remove for the DMD part)?
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post #15802 of 15810 Old 10-22-2014, 04:40 PM
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Followup on my repaired 67".
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
... Replacing suspicious caps is pretty inexpensive. I've got some on order to repair the SMPS that I swapped out...
Got the replacement caps from DigiKey and installed them. Fortunately, thats all that was needed, now the bad main-SMPS is good. Total outlay (not counting the boards that didn't need to be swapped), less than $10 .
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post #15803 of 15810 Old 10-23-2014, 11:52 AM
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Do you still need to ADD a 3D Adapter to this Model........I had one installed on mine before I bought a new TV......seems like I remember paying quite abit for it.................I still have it and the remote that goes with it IF anyone wants it make me an offer I can't refuse???


TKS michael
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post #15804 of 15810 Old 10-23-2014, 12:27 PM
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cosmicvoid: Yes I have the service manual somewhere. I know the link is in this thread too if I managed to loose it. I watched a video replacing the DMD on a similar TV too. Parts should be to me very soon I hope.

Also.. I will maybe build up courage to try to replace caps ( assuming thats the issue on my possible power supply issues ) It has been 20 years since I soldered anything, and that was big giant zero precision battery packs for RC cars. Maybe I will recruit a friend who does more of this sort of thing to teach/help. Still haven't got to measure voltages yet.
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post #15805 of 15810 Old 10-23-2014, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentrnge View Post
... It has been 20 years since I soldered anything, and that was big giant zero precision battery packs for RC cars...
Yeah, well replacing these kind of caps requires about zero precision, just get the polarity right. For the big ones (> .5" dia) you would need a soldering gun (100W or so) as opposed to a soldering pencil (25W), since the board holes are reinforced with eyelets.
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post #15806 of 15810 Old 10-24-2014, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
Yeah, well replacing these kind of caps requires about zero precision, just get the polarity right. For the big ones (> .5" dia) you would need a soldering gun (100W or so) as opposed to a soldering pencil (25W), since the board holes are reinforced with eyelets.
It is also a good idea to use solder wick to when removing old capacitors. Makes removal easier and cleanses
up excess solder.
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post #15807 of 15810 Old 10-24-2014, 01:15 PM
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^^
I gave up on solder wick years ago, because it tarnishes too easily and stops wicking solder. A cheap spring-loaded solder sucker works pretty well. Just my $.02.
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post #15808 of 15810 Old 10-27-2014, 06:46 AM
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Replaced my DLP Chip over the weekend due to stuck mirror issue. Picture looks like new and now my family can stop saying that they can see the big dipper constellation on our screen

Thanks to this forum for the discussion(s) and links on how to fix it! It was pretty easy.
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post #15809 of 15810 Old 10-28-2014, 01:05 PM
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I do have cheapo solder sucker I can use if needed.

My constellation augmented TV should be ended tonight. My replacement DMD chip should be delivered today/by now. Funny I had very close to big dipper too. Now its a bit busier. Maybe 30-40 black dots. ~15 white dots.
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post #15810 of 15810 Old 10-29-2014, 07:03 PM
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I just replaced my DMD. Went without a hitch. And I seemed to have fixed two problems at once!

So the main objective was obviously to get rid of stuck mirrors. No more black and white constellations on screen. Woo!

The bonus from the repair, is that I also eliminated some mild grain that I could see. In any solid color background I had a slightly noticable grain. Not like old static moving noise grain, but fixed in position. Just a mild grain, but it was throughout the entire picture. Maybe a variance of +/- 5 on a scale of 0-255 in the intensity. It made every scene, especially anything with large areas of solid colors look noisy/grainy. Including solid black. Anyway. That is gone too!

Maybe the mirrors have another failure mode where they get limited range on one end or the other, or actuate slower than they should. Not slow enough to shift colors or anything. I dont really know what was going on, but its not going on anymore. There was some dust on the mirror/prism directly in front of the DMD. I cleaned that with a very fine microfiber cloth wrapped around a q-tip. Maybe I was just seeing the dust as it has settled. I dont see how that would account for seeing noise on totally black scenes. It was actually more noticeable on black scenes than white scenes.

Also, I looked at all my caps. they all still look *perfect* I was too much in a hurry to enjoy the refreshed TV that I just buttoned it up after a few test power ups. I did not go through any voltage reading diags. I did do a quick vacuum. It wasent all that bad compared to the first time I opened it up and cleaned it.

I did not have any alignment issues. It was good to go right away. I suspect some people jump at the alignment screws during disassembly and throw things out of whack.

I was a bit more liberal with thermal paste than I would be with a CPU. The pot metal looking heat sink block was a bit rough.

Lastly, I did not have any power up issues. But time will tell. I noticed in the service manual it mentions that powering up with a black/off screen with audio playing can point to faulty DMD. I dont know if they mean that as a 30 second power cycle event where that occurs, or if they mean a total failure of the LEDs to power up, with a sustained black picture + sound.

I have no put about 1/2 of what I payed for the set new into it in parts. lol. Oh well. Hoping for the best, and a few more years of DLP viewing before being forced into an LCD. DLP projectors seem like a good way to fly as well.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice.
agentrnge is offline  
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