2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 528 - AVS Forum
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post #15811 of 15837 Old 11-04-2014, 09:12 PM
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ordered a replacement main board, now that i've lost my last hdmi input. hoping removal/install is pretty straight forward. will report back results.
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post #15812 of 15837 Old 11-05-2014, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wutangben View Post
ordered a replacement main board, now that i've lost my last hdmi input....
Note that after replacing a main board, you need to enter the service menu to copy the light engine data back to the new main board, so they remain 'in sync'.

If you were to replace the DMD board, you'd do a similar thing, to copy the rendering settings from the main board to the new DMD board.

I can supply you the steps to take, but I don't have them handy just now. Do you have access to the service manual? THere are links to sources still around I think.
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post #15813 of 15837 Old 11-05-2014, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
Note that after replacing a main board, you need to enter the service menu to copy the light engine data back to the new main board, so they remain 'in sync'.

If you were to replace the DMD board, you'd do a similar thing, to copy the rendering settings from the main board to the new DMD board.

I can supply you the steps to take, but I don't have them handy just now. Do you have access to the service manual? THere are links to sources still around I think.

oh wow, did not know that at all. this is my first attempt at repairing a tv, but I feel pretty confident that I can handle it. I'll have to find a link to that service manual...

thanks for the info
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post #15814 of 15837 Old 11-07-2014, 12:34 PM
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Is any one using this TV with a Harmony One remote? I am having only one issue and it is making me CRAZY. It does not go to the TV input if I start the TV activity from off. It will go from TV to HDMI, from off, if I start an activity needing that input. It will switch inputs back and forth properly if I change activites with everything already on. I will also be posting in the H1 thread.
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post #15815 of 15837 Old 11-08-2014, 10:34 PM
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Hey everyone,

So I just inherited this TV set, and I've got a question about it that I'm hoping someone can answer.

When I go into the menus and enable game mode the TV does the usual deal of locking out most of the settings on the device. However, unusually in comparison to my other TVs, it also locks out the basic adjustments (Contrast, Brightness, Sharpness, Color, and Tint) and picks some less than desirable values. The worst offender is probably the cranked up sharpness.

Is there a way I can modify the value game mode will settle on in order to dial the picture in a tiny bit? I'm wondering if perhaps altering the "EPA Standard" settings in the service menu would do the trick. Has anyone tried this?

I'm guessing I'm probably out of luck, and it is what it is, but I thought I'd throw the deep ball anyway .
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post #15816 of 15837 Old 11-08-2014, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agnt86 View Post
Hey everyone,

So I just inherited this TV set, and I've got a question about it that I'm hoping someone can answer.

When I go into the menus and enable game mode the TV does the usual deal of locking out most of the settings on the device. However, unusually in comparison to my other TVs, it also locks out the basic adjustments (Contrast, Brightness, Sharpness, Color, and Tint) and picks some less than desirable values. The worst offender is probably the cranked up sharpness.

Is there a way I can modify the value game mode will settle on in order to dial the picture in a tiny bit? I'm wondering if perhaps altering the "EPA Standard" settings in the service menu would do the trick. Has anyone tried this?

I'm guessing I'm probably out of luck, and it is what it is, but I thought I'd throw the deep ball anyway .

I honestly am not too sure of the right answer. I believe you can edit the values for the mode under the service menu as the gentleman I had calibrate my Sammy used the movie mode as a base and edited the values in the service menu from there (I maybe remembering things completely wrong and he used standard instead).

I'm also curious to know how many old Sammy owners have upgraded their TV and to what? I almost bought a 79inch Sony 900B or the Samsung HU9000, but after seeing LG's OLED I'm trying to hold out till the prices come down in 2015 for the 77inch.
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post #15817 of 15837 Old 11-10-2014, 04:04 PM
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Hey guys,

I have a Samsung HL61A750 that went out quite a few months back. I have since replaced the TV, but kept it with the intentions of troubleshooting and fixing it, however due to time, money and knowledge constraints it has simply sat in my office taking up space for far too long.

I'm looking to sell the internals and posted a classified. Thought I would post it here as this seems to be a thread that many are looking at repairing theirs.

The ad I made is here: AVS Forum > Classifieds > Display Devices > Samsung HL61A750 DLP - All Parts. I cannot post the URL because you apparently have to have greater than 5 posts in order to post links. I only have 3.
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post #15818 of 15837 Old 11-11-2014, 12:18 PM
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Hello everyone,


Well, I've thrown in the towel on my HL61A750 as it was like watching tv in a blizzard ( stuck mirrors ).
I replaced it with a new set (Sammy 65F7100 led) and I just don't have the time or space to try fixing it.
I don't know if this is the right place to make this offer,but someone will let me know.
I would like to offer this set for FREE to anyone on this forum who might want to take a stab at repairing it (probably the DMD chip) or if you just want to part it out for spare parts. All you got to do is pick it up, so if you live near NW New Jersey ( High Point area) just send me a PM and I'll get back to you.This set has worked flawlessly since I bought it in April 2009 ( less the stuck mirrors) and was probably in one the last groups produced(I think Dec. 2008).
I really hope one of you can take it as my only other choice is dumpster heaven.....

Last edited by dottech; 11-11-2014 at 12:23 PM.
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post #15819 of 15837 Old 11-11-2014, 01:51 PM
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Sad to report my sammy is acting up again. Less than 1 year ago the DMD chip was replaced and the repair man soldered new capacitors into the power supply, they were bulging and making popping sounds.

Now, while watching tv, all of a sudden you will lose volume and get a loud buzzing noise coming from inside the tv. when this happens none of the remote buttons will work, the green led on the front flashes as if it's receiving the command, but nothing happens. even pushing the power button on the front of the tv does nothing, it must be unplugged from the wall. sometimes the buzzing doesn't happen, but you still lose all remote capabilities and have to unplug. My warranty ends december 5th so i started a claim today and they will be here to diagnose on Thursday morning.


any ideas on what this will be needing? thanks
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post #15820 of 15837 Old 11-12-2014, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dottech View Post
Hello everyone,


Well, I've thrown in the towel on my HL61A750 as it was like watching tv in a blizzard ( stuck mirrors )....
I really hope one of you can take it as my only other choice is dumpster heaven.....

PM sent.
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post #15821 of 15837 Old 11-13-2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post
Sad to report my sammy is acting up again. Less than 1 year ago the DMD chip was replaced and the repair man soldered new capacitors into the power supply, they were bulging and making popping sounds.

Now, while watching tv, all of a sudden you will lose volume and get a loud buzzing noise coming from inside the tv. when this happens none of the remote buttons will work, the green led on the front flashes as if it's receiving the command, but nothing happens. even pushing the power button on the front of the tv does nothing, it must be unplugged from the wall. sometimes the buzzing doesn't happen, but you still lose all remote capabilities and have to unplug. My warranty ends december 5th so i started a claim today and they will be here to diagnose on Thursday morning.


any ideas on what this will be needing? thanks
Tech came and said it needs new main board. Waiting to see if warranty will replace it or repair it. Really hope they repair.
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post #15822 of 15837 Old 11-16-2014, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post
Tech came and said it needs new main board. Waiting to see if warranty will replace it or repair it. Really hope they repair.
If they replace it, you lose all your settings. Repair can preserve your settings, but I wonder what can be repaired on the main board; its mostly LSI chips. Maybe its a bad/loose I/O connector. I'd suspect the main smps, which mounts on top of the main board shell.

The main board, BP94-02326A, is about $200 - $260, if you can find any in stock.
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post #15823 of 15837 Old 11-16-2014, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
If they replace it, you lose all your settings. Repair can preserve your settings, but I wonder what can be repaired on the main board; its mostly LSI chips. Maybe its a bad/loose I/O connector. I'd suspect the main smps, which mounts on top of the main board shell.

The main board, BP94-02326A, is about $200 - $260, if you can find any in stock.
Sorry, I should have been more clear. They will either repair the tv by replacing the entire main, or they will just replace the tv with a new led tv. I love this tv so I hope they repair it, but tech said it was probably 50/50 since they already paid for dmd chip and new capacitors.
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post #15824 of 15837 Old 11-16-2014, 10:37 PM
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Hi all,

I bought my unit in 2008 and it's being working flawless till recently when I moved. Now the unit automatically turns on when plugged in and will not respond to the remote nor the buttons on the tv itself so I am unable to power it off. It's very similar to what FlyBri's unit is doing, except I am able to get video and audio. I have unplugged it for a good portion of a day and it didn't seem to fix the problem.

Thankfully I've got it hooked up to a DVR so this doesn't interfere too much. Does anyone have any ideas what may be wrong? and if it's something I can fix myself or should I have a tech come out?

Thanks.
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post #15825 of 15837 Old 11-17-2014, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dottech View Post
Hello everyone,


Well, I've thrown in the towel on my HL61A750 as it was like watching tv in a blizzard ( stuck mirrors ).
I replaced it with a new set (Sammy 65F7100 led) and I just don't have the time or space to try fixing it.
I don't know if this is the right place to make this offer,but someone will let me know.
I would like to offer this set for FREE to anyone on this forum who might want to take a stab at repairing it (probably the DMD chip) or if you just want to part it out for spare parts. All you got to do is pick it up, so if you live near NW New Jersey ( High Point area) just send me a PM and I'll get back to you.This set has worked flawlessly since I bought it in April 2009 ( less the stuck mirrors) and was probably in one the last groups produced(I think Dec. 2008).
I really hope one of you can take it as my only other choice is dumpster heaven.....

The stuck pixels were the only issue with this set.
If you PM be sure to leave an email address.
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post #15826 of 15837 Old 11-18-2014, 03:15 PM
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Anyone know if the TV supports the ability to turn it on via a receiver through the HDMI connection? I forget what this is called but my Yamaha Aventage receiver supports this. I assume not.
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post #15827 of 15837 Old 11-18-2014, 05:54 PM
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Anyone know if the TV supports the ability to turn it on via a receiver through the HDMI connection? I forget what this is called but my Yamaha Aventage receiver supports this. I assume not.
It's called CEC (Consumer Electronic Control). Should state in your manual if it's implemented.

EDIT: Samsung calls it Anynet+ (Page 88) http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/co...L02_110427.pdf

Quote:
The Anynet+ system can be used only with Samsung devices that have the Anynet+ feature. To be sure your
Samsung device has this feature, check if there is an Anynet+ logo on it.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 

Last edited by Augerhandle; 11-18-2014 at 06:06 PM.
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post #15828 of 15837 Old 11-18-2014, 08:35 PM
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The docs say any Samsung device. I'll have to see if my receiver needs it enabled in some way as well. I turned it on on the TV but so far, no luck.
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post #15829 of 15837 Old 11-20-2014, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
If they replace it, you lose all your settings. Repair can preserve your settings, but I wonder what can be repaired on the main board; its mostly LSI chips. Maybe its a bad/loose I/O connector. I'd suspect the main smps, which mounts on top of the main board shell.

The main board, BP94-02326A, is about $200 - $260, if you can find any in stock.
Just as you mentioned, they were unable to locate the part and have deemed the tv "unfixable". I'm really bummed about this, i loved the picture on this tv. now i have to try and see what they want to give me as a replacement. I haven't even been reading up on led tv's becasue i didn't expect to buy one anytime soon. lots of reading ahead for me.

if you happen to see one come available, please let me know. thanks
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post #15830 of 15837 Old 11-21-2014, 09:35 PM
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so i ordered a new main board from tvserviceparts.com. a few days after i placed my order, i received an e-mail saying it was on backorder for 2 weeks, and it would be in november 17th.

november 18th i receive an e-mail that the part is still backordered, and the expected arrival date was unknown.

so i canceled my order, and found a main board on eBay for $110 shipped.

just received the main board today, swapped it out in about a half an hour. turned on my tv, the blue ring lit up, but no picture, and just a blinking green led in the bottom right hand corner. this was as expected, as i know i needed to get into the service menu and copy the dmd data over. so i had to unplug it to turn it off, plugged it back in, and pressed mute 1 8 2 power, and it didn't really do anything. then i tried hitting mute -> 1 -> 8 -> 2 power (thinking maybe the arrows were actual right buttons) and it got me into the service menu! i did the DMD -> DIGITAL option, turned the tv off, turned it back on, and we were in business! hooked up my ps3 to hdmi 1, and it was working!!! hell yeah. checked hdmi 2 and hdmi 3, they worked as well.

SO, i turned it off, unplugged it, flipped it back around on the stand, so i could put the bezel back on as well as the entire back cover. Screwed everything in, flipped it back around. plugged the ps3 into my hdmi receiver, plugged the hdmi receiver into the hdmi 1 input, turned the tv on, and then it started doing the same thing it was doing before i did the DMD -> DIGITAL thing. no picture, flashing green LED light in the bottom right corner, and unable to turn it back off without unplugging the power cable. so i figure, ok, maybe i need to redo the DMD -> Digital step, but i can't, for the life of me, get back into the service manual. i've tried a couple dozen times, and i'm trying not to get frustrated here. i don't have anything else plugged into the tv right now, just the power cable, and i can not get into that menu.

are there any tips on getting back into the service menu? anyone have any thoughts or advice?

thanks,
Ben
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post #15831 of 15837 Old 11-22-2014, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by wutangben View Post
... are there any tips on getting back into the service menu? anyone have any thoughts or advice?
My experience is that if you are in standby (red led on @Lower right corner), then pressing mute 1 8 2 power (no arrow keys) turns on and enters svc menu.

If you are not at standby (no red led on bezel), then I couldn't get any response from the remote (except the green led acknowledging button presses). At that point in my testing, I was having a reboot cycling problem ( described here: 2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ ). I wasn't able to get to the 'standby' state until I fixed the main smps issue. Then, after that, everything worked.

So I can't specifically answer why yours worked, then stopped working. Check that the wiring is not messed up by the rear cover... like the brown/blue pair that runs across the back of the chassis. See if it works with the cover off again.

BTW, after the first time you transferred from DMD to main, it should "stick". And that shouldn't cause the symptoms you're describing.

Last edited by cosmicvoid; 11-22-2014 at 02:13 AM.
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post #15832 of 15837 Old 11-22-2014, 06:52 AM
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Overscan Issue Since New DMD Chip

Hi, Glad to see this thread is alive and well since my HL61A750 still is. I replaced my DMD chip recently and it seems I have greater overscan than before. I re-did the install but it remains the same. I have searched the forum and gone page-by-page through this thread and the one related to the service menu without finding any mention of the ability to use the service menu to adjust picture size or influence overscan. Is this not possible?
Thanks for being here.
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post #15833 of 15837 Old 11-22-2014, 02:45 PM
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... without finding any mention of the ability to use the service menu to adjust picture size or influence overscan. Is this not possible?
The picture size is not electrically adjustable. It depends on the mechanical relation of the DMD to the lens and mirrors. So the only thing to try is adjusting the position of the DMD circuit board. There are 3 screws, protected by plastic caps, that allow that adjustment. Loosten those screws and use your fingers to slide the DMD board assy around. This is a tedious thing to do, as you need a big mirror or a 2nd person to watch the screen. You need to display a grid type of test pattern that has centering lines, and its kind of fussy to get it right, and you may not really gain much change in image size.

My experience on this is limited, so you may wish to experiment a bit.
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post #15834 of 15837 Old Yesterday, 09:16 PM
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My 67A750 has finally gotten a stuck mirror, its in the bottom left edge about 1" from the bottom, so its not really a problem.
Those of you that have had this problem, how long did it take for more and more to fail or how did it finally go?
What is the part number for the chip, is it the DMV chip? Would you just order one now or wait until it fully fails.
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post #15835 of 15837 Old Today, 07:19 AM
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The big point I want to clarify is if you read that you do not need to remove all of the screws to replace the chip, I could not figure it out. Especially since the DMD is secured to the board from the front side with two screws so that board has got to come out. So the supposed screws you should not remove lest you have to adjust must come out.
I just changed mine Chip out and I did not need to remove the 3 adjustment screws. If you avoid touching these screws you dont need to mess with the alignment.

I took the fan out, then the 4 screws that hold the cover on. Then the 8 screws that hold the bracket on the back of the chip (4 of which are the spring screws).

If you look the other 3 screws have a big cutout around them on the PCB so they don't physically attached the board in anyway. I would recommend not touching these screws.

I used this process... with the exception of not touching the 3 adjustment screws. http://tso.bzb.us/2013/01/replacing-...-hl61a750.html

Last edited by captbly; Today at 07:30 AM. Reason: add procedure
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post #15836 of 15837 Old Today, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
My 67A750 has finally gotten a stuck mirror, its in the bottom left edge about 1" from the bottom, so its not really a problem.
Those of you that have had this problem, how long did it take for more and more to fail or how did it finally go?
What is the part number for the chip, is it the DMV chip? Would you just order one now or wait until it fully fails.
It took mine about 4 months to where I had enough. I let mine go for a little while because it didnt bother me, also gave me a chances to save for the chip (just put mine in yesterday) I had quite a few dots all over the screen though by the time I changed it. Guess thats subjective in how much you can put up with it. Its weird the first one drove me crazy, then I got used to it I guess.

Best to Search for your TV model instead of the DMD chip number. I know alot say they get it from shopjimmy.com but I got mine through NewEgg.
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post #15837 of 15837 Old Today, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
My 67A750 has finally gotten a stuck mirror, its in the bottom left edge about 1" from the bottom, so its not really a problem.
Those of you that have had this problem, how long did it take for more and more to fail or how did it finally go?
What is the part number for the chip, is it the DMV chip? Would you just order one now or wait until it fully fails.
Mine seemed to get worse by the day. Within a couple weeks it was too bad for me. Mine was replaced a year ago and working great, but now the main board has failed and i can't find a new one.
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