2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 532 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15931 of 15959 Old 01-11-2015, 07:41 PM
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Are you calling me a fool?
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post #15932 of 15959 Old 01-11-2015, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
Are you calling me a fool?
No the Tibetan proverb has been there for years. I thought I'd add your comment about reading the manual, because it was funny, but I would have to delete other parts of my signature, so it won't work..

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
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post #15933 of 15959 Old 01-11-2015, 07:48 PM
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Ok I also checked all those entries and I do not think it defaulted to PC mode. I read the whole maintenance manual. Searched the fourm and did several google searches, nothing found.
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post #15934 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 12:05 AM
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Since you Factory Defaulted it, you have nothing to lose by trying things in the calib thread. Note that some of the settings are "per-input", so you would repeat them for other inputs.

Try some of the config recipes listed in that thread and see if you can get the gray-ed out things to be active. I doubt the LED setting 'sameness' is due to hardware issue. You just have to get into the right combinations of settings to access them.
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post #15935 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 06:15 AM
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I've recently started having an issue with my TV. I had the white dot issue and replaced the DLP chip a couple of years ago - everything has been great since then until about a month ago.

On both HDMI 1 and 2 (which are connected to our Dish DVR and AppleTV respectively), The TV will randomly appear to turn off, then turn back on with no signal. In the case of the Dish box on HDMI 1, it takes a couple of seconds, and then finds the signal and goes on with life. In the case of the AppleTV on HDMI 2 it never finds the signal again unless I power cycle the AppleTV.

When it first started happening, I thought maybe there was a problem with the HDMI cable, since it was only happening on the AppleTv. Replacing that did nothing and now it's happening on the other input.

This usually happens about once every 3-4 days or so, but this weekend it happened about 4-5 times within an hour while watching the Dish DVR.

Any ideas what is causing this?
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post #15936 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylwill View Post
I read the whole maintenance manual. Searched the fourm and did several google searches, nothing found.

Larrywill. Same problem here. I RTFMd and searched as well... I assumed it was a setting. I could not find it though. See my earlier posts a few pages back if you care to. I have two identical sets. With the same user setup on both. LED controls works on one, but not the other. It has never worked on one set since day one.
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post #15937 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 11:00 AM
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Thumbs up

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Ok, but the forum limit for a pdf attachment is only 20KB. If you PM me an email address, I'll send it to you, its 924KB for the 5 page extract. The entire Training Manual is 14MB, and is similar to the Service Manual.
Thanks for all the information Cosmicvoid!

I was able to disassemble the TV, and of course, the Manual's pics show that there are 3 screws that hold the bottom of the screen on, where on mine there are 4 screws, all in a row. Two of them require the Engine Assembly to be removed. Over all, it was easier than I thought. Was able to clean the mirror and projector lens, as well as line the inside with Duvetyne. I used both the Duvetyne tape as well as the cloth. Now to fine tune the sharpness and run the Actuator adjustment.

If I have time this week, will also be going back over the calibration, to see how it's been holding up!

Last edited by Lee Bailey; 01-12-2015 at 11:39 AM.
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post #15938 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainSKA View Post
I've recently started having an issue with my TV. I had the white dot issue and replaced the DLP chip a couple of years ago - everything has been great since then until about a month ago.

On both HDMI 1 and 2 (which are connected to our Dish DVR and AppleTV respectively), The TV will randomly appear to turn off, then turn back on with no signal. In the case of the Dish box on HDMI 1, it takes a couple of seconds, and then finds the signal and goes on with life. In the case of the AppleTV on HDMI 2 it never finds the signal again unless I power cycle the AppleTV.

When it first started happening, I thought maybe there was a problem with the HDMI cable, since it was only happening on the AppleTv. Replacing that did nothing and now it's happening on the other input.

This usually happens about once every 3-4 days or so, but this weekend it happened about 4-5 times within an hour while watching the Dish DVR.

Any ideas what is causing this?
Do you have the latest firmware? http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...ct/HL61A750A1F

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
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post #15939 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 12:40 PM
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Doubtful. I've had it since 2008 and never updated the firmware. Is this likely to solve the issue?
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post #15940 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 01:54 PM
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My WAG: a capacitor on the main smps is going bad. Check the main smps (mounted on top of the main board housing) for any stand-up aluminum caps that show any sign of bulging on top.
If that's the case, is it worth repairing? Or can it even be?

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post #15941 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 02:28 PM
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Doubtful. I've had it since 2008 and never updated the firmware. Is this likely to solve the issue?
To see what it fixes, scroll down to the "Manual and Downloads" section and click the info button <?> (it's a question mark) under "Downloads".

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...-0813-11000279

I'm assuming you have model HL61A750A1F. Go to a different page if your model is different.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
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post #15942 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 02:39 PM
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I'm assuming you have model HL61A750A1F. Go to a different page if your model is different.
Pretty good assumption given where I posted. Yes, I have the 61A750

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle
To see what it fixes, scroll down to the "Manual and Downloads" section and click the info button <?> (it's a question mark) under "Downloads".
Thanks, I looked for something labeled release notes or something similar and didn't see it.
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post #15943 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 02:58 PM
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I downloaded the upgrade file (1005.3 according to the website and the update process) and my TV asked if I wanted to upgrade from 1006.1 to 1005.3. Wouldn't 1006.1 be a newer firmware?
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post #15944 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 04:12 PM
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If that's the case, is it worth repairing? Or can it even be?
Seriously? Only you can decide the worth of continuing to use your set. As for replacing caps, its one of the lowest cost fixes for almost any older electronics (assuming its bad caps, not bad chips).

As for ease of repair, you'd need basic soldering (and unsoldering) skillz, and a soldering gun or high wattage (100 W) soldering iron. The larger caps are soldered into eyelets on the pcbs, which requires more heat than a small 'pencil' iron will deliver.

The caps cost only a few bucks apiece from any electronics supplier.

If you're unskilled, you can pull the 2 smps boards and take them to a TV repair, and tell them to replace bad or suspicious caps. Save the cost of a house visit.
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post #15945 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 04:22 PM
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... Wouldn't 1006.1 be a newer firmware?
Yes, keep your 1006.1.

As a workaround, you might try a HDMI switch-box to funnel your sources into a working port (HDMI3 ?) All but the dirt cheap ones are IR remote controllable.

The first suspicion for the HDMI1 and HDMI2 flakeyness would be the main-board. Possibly intermittent solder connections of the HDMI jacks or flakey jacks. Hopefully you won't need to replace the main-board as they are rare as hens teeth nowdays. Occasionally a pull-out pops up on ebay.
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post #15946 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 06:23 PM
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Yes, keep your 1006.1.

As a workaround, you might try a HDMI switch-box to funnel your sources into a working port (HDMI3 ?) All but the dirt cheap ones are IR remote controllable.

The first suspicion for the HDMI1 and HDMI2 flakeyness would be the main-board. Possibly intermittent solder connections of the HDMI jacks or flakey jacks. Hopefully you won't need to replace the main-board as they are rare as hens teeth nowdays. Occasionally a pull-out pops up on ebay.
I'll try that. Any chance there's an IR HDMI switch that can be programmed into a Harmony remote? Apparently I also need to keep my eye out for a mainboard on ebay... I guess I'll just pick one up if it shows up.

Thanks for the help!
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post #15947 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 06:53 PM
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Any chance there's an IR HDMI switch that can be programmed into a Harmony remote?
Can you look on the Harmony site to see if they list any in their database? I used the remote of my HDMI switch to 'teach' my Pronto Pro the codes, and added them to my programming sequences.
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Apparently I also need to keep my eye out for a mainboard on ebay... I guess I'll just pick one up if it shows up.
Easiest way is to enter a search for the main-board part #'s, and then request email notification when any come up for sale. You have to act quickly, as these modules are bought very quickly.
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post #15948 of 15959 Old 01-12-2015, 06:55 PM
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D'oh. Forgot I could program off the the remote. Of course that would work.

Ebay search alert already in place. Looks like $200 or so if I have to have it right now. Still better than a new TV with a worse picture.
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post #15949 of 15959 Old 01-14-2015, 04:59 AM
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chromecast

hi! sorry if in wrong forum... but i have this Samsung dlp tv and tried to use the Chromecast device with this tv and couldnt get it to work so... will the Chromecast stick work with this tv? thnx for your help...

also thnx for the members involved in the 'chip replacement' to fix 'white dots' posts towards the end of this thread... mines on the way!
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post #15950 of 15959 Old 01-16-2015, 06:09 PM
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I'll try that. Any chance there's an IR HDMI switch that can be programmed into a Harmony remote?
I got one from monoprice that works with my Harmony remote, its even in Harmony's data base. Pretty sure this is the one I got, http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

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hi! sorry if in wrong forum... but i have this Samsung dlp tv and tried to use the Chromecast device with this tv and couldnt get it to work so... will the Chromecast stick work with this tv? thnx for your help...
I got mine to work but I actually have it plugged into my hdmi switch I just talked about and through a receiver but I don't think that would make a difference. I even use the USB port on the TV to power it.
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post #15951 of 15959 Old 01-20-2015, 12:23 AM
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... Ebay search alert already in place. Looks like $200 or so if I have to have it right now. Still better than a new TV with a worse picture.
If you score a replacement mainbrd, remember to keep the color mapping data in sync with the DMD boaard. You go into service mode and copy DMD -> Main, replacing the unknown values in the mainbrd with the values you've been using in the DMD.

See here: 2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ

BTW, just doing a casual search for Samsung modules on ebay, on Jan 12, a mainboard module was for sale for $175. Did you get a notification for that one?
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post #15952 of 15959 Old 01-20-2015, 08:16 AM
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I've got an extra HL61A750 input board I'll be listing on eBay soon. Part number on the box is BP96-0289A. I bought it when my set was new for a backup. It's a Best Buy take out from a new set they sold that didn't end up being the problem. I did install it in my first set that had issues, and was exchanged. All the inputs were functional when I tested it.
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post #15953 of 15959 Old Yesterday, 06:09 PM
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mine has one white dot right in the center. expecting more soon!

it has been a great set through the years.

i was quoted $360 from a local shop to come put a new chip in it.

should i try and do it myself? I build PCs often.

thanks
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post #15954 of 15959 Old Yesterday, 06:20 PM
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mine has one white dot right in the center. expecting more soon!

it has been a great set through the years.

i was quoted $360 from a local shop to come put a new chip in it.

should i try and do it myself? I build PCs often.

thanks
Its pretty easy, just be careful. I did mine and its working great, while your at it clean all the optics and the mirror.
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post #15955 of 15959 Old Yesterday, 09:29 PM
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mine has one white dot right in the center. expecting more soon!

it has been a great set through the years.

i was quoted $360 from a local shop to come put a new chip in it.

should i try and do it myself? I build PCs often.

thanks
Got a good deal on one from Shop Jim my.
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post #15956 of 15959 Old Today, 01:17 AM
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Got a good deal on one from Shop Jim my.
shop jimmy??
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post #15957 of 15959 Old Today, 09:39 AM
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shop jimmy??
http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsear...HL61A650C1FXZA
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post #15958 of 15959 Old Today, 12:00 PM
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thanks, is it better to wait till i get it apart and see the exact model of chip?
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post #15959 of 15959 Old Today, 02:31 PM
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Here's the link to the chip I bought. Just make sure your model number is listed at the bottom

http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-mit...7-dlp-chip.htm

Takes an hour and a half or so to do.

You could actually see the bad mirrors on the defective chip if you hold it just right in the light.


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