2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 534 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15991 of 16016 Old 06-29-2015, 06:22 PM
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My HDMI inputs are not working for some reason. All three are not establishing a connection. I have used HDMI cables that I know are good (tested on another TV), and a blu ray player and PS4 that work fine on another set. Anyone have any ideas?

Never mind...firmware update seems to have fixed the issue!

Last edited by ochild3180; 06-29-2015 at 07:09 PM. Reason: Update
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post #15992 of 16016 Old 07-12-2015, 11:14 AM
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Darbee Darblet Cobalt

Been a long time since I've posted here. Still have my 61" running very well. I've ordered all 3 fans in the event that one will fail one day. Still get 5+ hours a day of watching. I'm posting this message for those of you who would like a relatively inexpensive upgrade on your picture. The Darbee Darblet Colbalt. This unit can enhance your viewing even more with depth. They are available on Amazon for $150.

You will need to have a second HDMI cable, since this unit inserts between the source and the TV input. I have mine connected to the AVR to the TV, since I switch all my inputs through the AVR. It has also been found that it is best to have a minimum HDMI cable length of 6ft before and after the unit.

You can search for the Darbee posts, they are in the Video Components/Video Processors section on AVS Forum, if you want to read up on them.
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post #15993 of 16016 Old 07-12-2015, 11:27 AM
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Cover those Black Bars!

There is another older method of actually creating a set of top and bottom black bar covers. Using black foam boards. These are available at places like Michael's and sometimes Target or even Walmart.

You measure the inner width of the top and bottom of your screen, and measure how tall the black bars are for the top and bottom while having a movie playing. Cut the boards to match. Depending what size board you get, you may have to use 2 pieces for the top and the bottom. You will have to come up with a solution to keep them in place, such as some Velcro or maybe even some black duct tape.

At night with just the TV on, you will immediately notice a difference in the picture quality. Your eyes will not be distracted by the black bars.
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post #15994 of 16016 Old 07-12-2015, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post
Been a long time since I've posted here. Still have my 61" running very well. I've ordered all 3 fans in the event that one will fail one day. Still get 5+ hours a day of watching. I'm posting this message for those of you who would like a relatively inexpensive upgrade on your picture. The Darbee Darblet Colbalt. This unit can enhance your viewing even more with depth. They are available on Amazon for $150.

You will need to have a second HDMI cable, since this unit inserts between the source and the TV input. I have mine connected to the AVR to the TV, since I switch all my inputs through the AVR. It has also been found that it is best to have a minimum HDMI cable length of 6ft before and after the unit.

You can search for the Darbee posts, they are in the Video Components/Video Processors section on AVS Forum, if you want to read up on them.
I have the 67A750 and am wondering how much improvement can you add with this thing over the standard image enhancements already on the 67A750.
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post #15995 of 16016 Old 07-12-2015, 10:11 PM
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I tried the original Darbee Darblet several years ago on my 67A750. The enhancement was good, almost amazing, and I would have liked to keep the unit. However, there was a dealbreaker, in that each time I powered up the Samsung, the HDMI handshake would fail, resulting in a green (or sometimes magenta) screen. This could be worked around by switching inputs, but it was such a hassle that I returned the Darblet.

I was impressed enough, though, that I will give this Cobalt model a try, to see if Darbee has cured the HDMI problem. I will also try longer HDMI cables; I was using 3 ft cables in my initial trial, maybe that was the problem.
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post #15996 of 16016 Old 07-12-2015, 10:19 PM
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So from what I read nobody can say exactly just what it does. I know if I turn on Edge enhancement letters get fuzzy or filled in on small block type writing. One can but the 5000 refurbished for the same price as the new one. I assume youll go for the newer one.
Right now Im really happy with my 67a750 and cant see hoe much better it could get. I suppose if I ordered one from Amazon, I could return it if I was not happy with it.
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post #15997 of 16016 Old 07-13-2015, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I tried the original Darbee Darblet several years ago on my 67A750. The enhancement was good, almost amazing, and I would have liked to keep the unit. However, there was a dealbreaker, in that each time I powered up the Samsung, the HDMI handshake would fail, resulting in a green (or sometimes magenta) screen. This could be worked around by switching inputs, but it was such a hassle that I returned the Darblet.

I was impressed enough, though, that I will give this Cobalt model a try, to see if Darbee has cured the HDMI problem. I will also try longer HDMI cables; I was using 3 ft cables in my initial trial, maybe that was the problem.
The newer Cobalt is cheaper than the original Darbee because it only lets you increment changes 5% at a time. Using the 6ft cables on each side of my original Darbee unit solved the issue about 98% of the time. From time to time I too will get a screen that is all greenish, as well as an occasional Darbee resetting itself back to factory mode. Overall, it was still worth it. OPPO now makes a BD player that incorporates it. Don't know if that helps to solve those issues or not. I keep Darbee right at 50% for everything I watch.
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post #15998 of 16016 Old 07-14-2015, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post
I'm having some problems using this set as a computer monitor via HDMI. THE whole task bar is cut off on the bottom, and the desktop icons on the sides are cut off by half. I am trying to use my laptop as a HTPC and play movies on my TV. I want the audio as well, not just the picture, so HDMI seems the way to go.

I am using a laptop with HDMI out to the PC input of my onkyo Tx-nr 3009, and then HDMI out on the 3009, to HDMI 1 on the TV. Both laptop and TV are set to 1080.

I did a Google search on "computer screen not fitting TV" and everything I read said that it was a TV issue. Something to do with overscan. I can't find anywhere in the TV's menu on over scan. I also read if I rename the input I am using to PC, it might change. That didn't work....I tried all the picture sizes...16:9, 4:3 (even in 4:3 it is stil cut off) just scan etc. Nothing worked.

I do notice there is a PC input on the back of the TV, but it's VGA (I think) and as far as I know that is only video.

I did a quick search of this thread and didn't really see anything about this. This thread is huge so maybe is buried somewhere. I did see something about HDMI 3 in this thread, and tried swapping to that input, nothing changed. Plus I did Lee Baileys calibration on HDMI 1 , and don't feel like doing it again on HDMI 3.

Is anyone using this TV like I want too? If so can you please explain how to get the computer screen to fit properly.

Thanks
From memory, and I don't have the tools to recreate it:
When I faced that problem, laptop HDMI to HL67A750, I used the set's HDMI input labelled PC and suffered the overscan. IIRC, using the "Sources" menu to name it PC solved all the problems. No PC changes required.

This isn't exactly your problem, in that your setup passes through the Onkyo. If I understand correctly, you wrote that the 3009 has a PC input. Does it also require that input be correctly named and have presets eliminating the overscan and other compensating behaviours built into the television?
HTH
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post #15999 of 16016 Old 07-14-2015, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomS. View Post
From memory, and I don't have the tools to recreate it:
When I faced that problem, laptop HDMI to HL67A750, I used the set's HDMI input labelled PC and suffered the overscan. IIRC, using the "Sources" menu to name it PC solved all the problems. No PC changes required.

This isn't exactly your problem, in that your setup passes through the Onkyo. If I understand correctly, you wrote that the 3009 has a PC input. Does it also require that input be correctly named and have presets eliminating the overscan and other compensating behaviours built into the television?
HTH
Thanks for the reply, but two things....... One I figured it all out, and two the TV has died in the last few weeks. It is going to be going to the scrap yard soon. Thanks for making your first post about my problem. Hope you didn't set up an account just for me.
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post #16000 of 16016 Old 07-14-2015, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post
Thanks for the reply, but two things....... One I figured it all out, and two the TV has died in the last few weeks. It is going to be going to the scrap yard soon. Thanks for making your first post about my problem. Hope you didn't set up an account just for me.

For the benefit of other forum members, how did you solve the problem?

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post #16001 of 16016 Old 07-15-2015, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post
The newer Cobalt is cheaper than the original Darbee because it only lets you increment changes 5% at a time. Using the 6ft cables on each side of my original Darbee unit solved the issue about 98% of the time. From time to time I too will get a screen that is all greenish, as well as an occasional Darbee resetting itself back to factory mode. Overall, it was still worth it. OPPO now makes a BD player that incorporates it. Don't know if that helps to solve those issues or not. I keep Darbee right at 50% for everything I watch.
Based on the reviews I bought the last 5000 referb from Amazon, it came in today and it really does improve the picture. Without it you don't know what your missing. I have mine set at full pop at 80%
So far no problems but I only had it 1/2 hour.
Ok I have run some tests and I will definitely be keeping the Darbee, I like it!

Last edited by larrylwill; 07-19-2015 at 03:04 PM.
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post #16002 of 16016 Old 07-19-2015, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post
Been a long time since I've posted here. Still have my 61" running very well. I've ordered all 3 fans in the event that one will fail one day. Still get 5+ hours a day of watching. I'm posting this message for those of you who would like a relatively inexpensive upgrade on your picture. The Darbee Darblet Colbalt. This unit can enhance your viewing even more with depth. They are available on Amazon for $150.

You will need to have a second HDMI cable, since this unit inserts between the source and the TV input. I have mine connected to the AVR to the TV, since I switch all my inputs through the AVR. It has also been found that it is best to have a minimum HDMI cable length of 6ft before and after the unit.

You can search for the Darbee posts, they are in the Video Components/Video Processors section on AVS Forum, if you want to read up on them.
Lee, great to see you are still hanging around here. I am intrigued and thinking of making this purchase. I had had my set since 2008 and have had no issues (knock on wood) 29070 led hours. I still think this set looks better than most on the market today.
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post #16003 of 16016 Old 07-19-2015, 04:53 PM
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lately i've been noticing really bad motion blur/lag when watching sports. Any idea if this a fixable issue?
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post #16004 of 16016 Old 07-19-2015, 06:25 PM
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lately i've been noticing really bad motion blur/lag when watching sports. Any idea if this a fixable issue?

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Hello All.

Nice site and very informative discussions. Definitely appreciated finding this community when my TV went out today.

Your second opinion(s) would be appreciated on what I think might be a bad Sub SMPS.

It sounds like a few others have had similar issues...
Blue ring and a blinking "LED" light with no image displayed at power up.
Followed by what sounds like power cycling and eventually all three lights blinking on the front panel.
No image ever displayed and unresponsive to power button.

Based on some initial reading today, I started checking the power levels.

CN800 is reading a constant 300V, i.e. +/- 149V
CN801 is displaying varying voltage, it appears to start at 16V but quickly falls until the power cycles.

Does a bad Sub SMPS sound accurate or could a faulty part elsewhere be causing that behavior?
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post #16006 of 16016 Old 07-19-2015, 09:05 PM
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Cox
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post #16007 of 16016 Old 07-20-2015, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayAg View Post
... CN800 is reading a constant 300V, i.e. +/- 149V
CN801 is displaying varying voltage, it appears to start at 16V but quickly falls until the power cycles.

Does a bad Sub SMPS sound accurate or could a faulty part elsewhere be causing that behavior?
Explain what you mean about CN800 being "constant", but varying up/down by 149V.

It could be the sub-smps failing, but just as well it could be the main-smps. If the 300V folded back under load (i.e. the LEDs being turned on), then the 16V would fold as well.

I had a set with similar symptoms, except that there was a brief flicker from the LEDs before the voltages died. The problem was in the main-smps; the 300V was folding first, causing the 16V to fold. The fix was to replace the large aluminum can electrolytic caps. With a set that's 7+ years old, I'd replace the electrolytic caps on both boards, and see what the result is. Just a note: the large cans on the main-smps board have eyelets on the pcb, which requires a lot of heat (100W iron) to unsolder them (and solder in the replacements). You could probably get the caps for less than $20 total. I posted about this topic a year or two ago, if you want to search for my posts.
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post #16008 of 16016 Old 07-20-2015, 07:25 PM
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Thanks for the reply and apologizes for not being clearer.

CN800 is a constant 300V.
The reference to +/-149V was in regards to the readings I was getting between the positive and negative terminals to ground respectively. Just double checked the voltage does remain constant throughout.

CN801 displays varying voltage.
In fact, the voltage appears to dwindle from 16V down to <9V until the power cycling starts the process over again.

Let me see if I can dig up that post on replacing caps (although I may take the easy road out by buying a new board).
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post #16009 of 16016 Old 07-20-2015, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BayAg View Post
The reference to +/-149V was in regards to the readings I was getting between the positive and negative terminals to ground respectively.
Ahh, well I'd be surprised if the 300V is even referenced to ground.
Quote:
... I may take the easy road out by buying a new board.
I see some BP96-01726B for $56, some for a lot more. That still leaves the old caps on the main-smps ticking their lives away, just sayin'.
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post #16010 of 16016 Old 07-24-2015, 10:13 AM
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Bought mine in Jan 2008, it's been running 12 hrs a day since. Just replaced the dlp chip, white dots gone and the annoying buzz coming from the back is gone too!!
Thanks AVS I never would have bought this tv with out you guys and never would have known how to fix ether!!
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post #16011 of 16016 Old 07-24-2015, 10:51 AM
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You're more than welcome Larry!

I can't stress enough how important it is to keep the rear chassis and fans area cleaned. Also important to clean the optics inside the screen cavity. I use a long-handled wool duster myself. Don't use it on the mirror, just the lense. Main issue when cleaning is you can't see what you are doing once your arm in in the hole!
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post #16012 of 16016 Old 07-25-2015, 07:40 PM
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Hi guys,


We replaced the DMD chip on our HL67A750 set to get rid of 17 white dots two weeks ago. However, the picture and sound now randomly cut out. Sometimes every 5 minutes, sometimes every hour. This only happens on a signal coming from the PC (HDMI input) - not when watching cable TV for instance.


Did I mess something up when replacing the DLP chip? Have a ruined my set??




Jozef
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post #16013 of 16016 Old 07-25-2015, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooterj View Post
... the picture and sound now randomly cut out .... This only happens on a signal coming from the PC (HDMI input) .... Did I mess something up when replacing the DLP chip?
I don't see how a DMD replacement can be related to intermittent signal on HDMI (3 presumably). I'd suspect, in this order:
a) a loose cable connection from PC to TV
b) a flaky HDMI cable
c) something intermittent in your PC video card (or mobo video output)
d) problem on the Samsung main-board

Experiment with connecting the PC video to a different HDMI input to see if the problem follows the cable, or stays with the HDMI3 input.
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post #16014 of 16016 Old Yesterday, 01:58 PM
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Ok after changing my dlp chip my alignment is of a little, do I just play with the 4 screws with the springs to get it back in line?
I mean it's not bad, you can only tell when a news scroll is running and I don't want to make it worse ether lol
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post #16015 of 16016 Old Yesterday, 07:13 PM
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3 little white specks???

Quote:
Originally Posted by larrygto View Post
Bought mine in Jan 2008, it's been running 12 hrs a day since. Just replaced the dlp chip, white dots gone and the annoying buzz coming from the back is gone too!!
Thanks AVS I never would have bought this tv with out you guys and never would have known how to fix ether!!
Larry, have the same unit as you... and have the famous white dots (3 of them) Can you advise on where to get the " dip chip ", and is it difficult to replace? Thanks in advance. CR
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post #16016 of 16016 Old Today, 07:15 AM
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Replacing the DLP chip is a breeze. Go to YouTube and watch the video (
) to see it done step by step. I got my chip on Amazon from ShopJimmy - but my set is the older 2007 model. The replacement is simple as long as you make sure to take note of all the cables you disconnect to get to the chip.

Here is the link just showing you which model chip you need - this in no way endorses the seller. Buy it anywhere you want:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Mitsub...dp/B007JY58FM/

Get some thermal paste too. Needed to make this fix better than the original.
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