2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 540 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16171 of 16245 Old 01-09-2016, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hpman247 View Post
Well, It's happened again. I had to come back here and search the posts to see what exactly my proble, was the last time, and it appears to be the same again. The TV makes the ususal sound when it's booting up, the LED light blinks about 20 times, then it cycles again, 20 blinks, cycles one more time, and then I get the 3 blinking lights.

It was the LED Board last time, so I'm assuming it's the same again.

I replaced the DMD chip a few months ago to fix the white specks, and it was pretty easy. I found a service manual online, and a few videos on YT, so tonight I took out the whole assembly and looked at the LED Driver Board. It looked ok, smelled ok, but I'm guessing it's fried. It has no heat sinks on it, and it's been in use for the past 5 years. Seems plausible.

Anyways I went ahead and bought a VIZIO E70-C3, but I'm still planning to repair this one over time. If it's not the Driver board, I guess it's the SMPS or the DMD board.

One thing that I can tell is similar to last time is that the TV at boot always goes from a pitch black, to a brightened black when you turn it on. It lasts only for a second before the picture pops up. This does not happen now. The screen just stays pitch black, as it did when the LED Board failed in 2010.

I'll test all the LEDs with a 9v battery tomorrow, and try to figure out exactly how to use the multimeter to test the SMPS for the 16v pins. I don't know if I'll do it right, but I'll give it a shot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hpman247 View Post
I just took a closer look at the subSMPS board.. It appears that the capicitors are bulging. The 4 on the left side pf it are bulding badly. The lone capicitor on the right isn't bulging.

One the Main Power board, none of the caps are bulging.

Should I replace the sub9SMPS board, you think?
Just to update for anyone else who has this issue.

I replaces the sub smps board with one I purchased on eBay, and it took care of the problem. The TV booted up, but only the red LED was working. I'd literally taken the whole LED assemble apart anyway, so i just remved the heatsinks again, popped off the LEDs, made sure the connections were ok, then left them out, plugged the TV back in and saw that all 3 lit up. <<<That may not be safe or advisable, but I turned off the set immediately after I saw all three color illuminate.

So, I cleaned off all the thermal paste, reapplied some arctic silver, and put it all back together. At this point the tv booted up, all LEDs were working and all was well. I'll probably just put the TV in storage right now since I bought the 70" Vizio. I'll keep it around for when I move in a few years and have an extra room or two that could use a TV.

This TV is really easy to take apart and you can find the service manual for free just by googling it. Good luck on any future repairs all.

I checked the service menu MUTE - 1 - 8 - 2- POWER, and saw my LED life is at 32,000 hours. Looks like it's about reached middle age

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post #16172 of 16245 Old 01-11-2016, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LordRasta View Post
My new toy...<br><br><img alt="" src="http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/kingrasta/photo3.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br><img alt="" src="http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee176/kingrasta/photo4.jpg" style="border:0px solid;"><br><br><br>
Samsung HL-67A750<br>
Bush VS74962 Stand<br>
Denon AVR-1082<br>
Denon POA-8300<br>
Denon POA-8200<br>
Denon POA-5200 (future expansion if we ever move and I go to 7.1)<br>
Denon 1800BD Blu-Ray Player<br>
Denon CDR-W1500 CD Recorder<br>
Monster HTS 1800 Stage 2 Power<br>
Monster HTS 1000 MKII Power<br>
Comcast DCT3416<br>
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Bose Acoustimass 5 - Rears<br>
Bose 301 Series IV - Music listening only<br>
Xbox 360 Elite<br>
Logitech Harmony One<br><br>
Took lots of years and lots of saving. Dad always comes last.
Almost 7 years later and still no heat or weight issues. :-) The Samsung however was good to me but she went onto another home and replaced with a Samsung 75" 4K model. All my audio components are the same and still impress people when they come over.
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post #16173 of 16245 Old 01-21-2016, 10:19 AM
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I found a couple answers in this thread, and now can't find them again (my search capabilities seem to have crashed ...)

I got a Check Fan 3 message, and don't feel equipped to open up the TV and replace the fan, or even to blow dust around. So, am considering having the $$amsung Authorized Repair outfit come by to give me an estimate - or to have someone else open up the TV if it's easy enough.

I did read when one fan goes the other two are likely not far behind, and am wondering if/where the parts are available for the 3 fans, or at least for Fan #3 . I thought it's probably time to buck up and get another TV, but I honestly hate glossy screens, don't care about 4K or Smart - and if it's not too involved would prefer to just hang onto this set.

Thanks.
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post #16174 of 16245 Old 01-21-2016, 10:19 AM
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I found a couple answers in this thread, and now can't find them again (my search capabilities seem to have crashed ...)

I got a Check Fan 3 message, and don't feel equipped to open up the TV and replace the fan, or even to blow dust around. So, am considering having the $$amsung Authorized Repair outfit come by to give me an estimate - or to have someone else open up the TV if it's easy enough.

I did read when one fan goes the other two are likely not far behind, and am wondering if/where the parts are available for the 3 fans, or at least for Fan #3 . I thought it's probably time to buck up and get another TV, but I honestly hate glossy screens, don't care about 4K or Smart - and if it's not too involved would prefer to just hang onto this set.

Can someone point me to the part numbers and where to get them?

Thanks.

Addendum: found the part number, ordered two of them, and will have someone install. I know most of you guys would do it yourself cheaper, but for $200 now I won't have to go through the trauma of giving up my beloved set! The service guy said the big fan doesn't usually go out, and so I'm only replacing the two small ones.

Should I replace the big one also? (don't know part number for that one)

Last edited by moonscape; 01-21-2016 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Addendum
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post #16175 of 16245 Old 01-21-2016, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonscape View Post
I found a couple answers in this thread, and now can't find them again (my search capabilities seem to have crashed ...)

I got a Check Fan 3 message, and don't feel equipped to open up the TV and replace the fan, or even to blow dust around. So, am considering having the $$amsung Authorized Repair outfit come by to give me an estimate - or to have someone else open up the TV if it's easy enough.

I did read when one fan goes the other two are likely not far behind, and am wondering if/where the parts are available for the 3 fans, or at least for Fan #3 . I thought it's probably time to buck up and get another TV, but I honestly hate glossy screens, don't care about 4K or Smart - and if it's not too involved would prefer to just hang onto this set.

Can someone point me to the part numbers and where to get them?

Thanks.

Addendum: found the part number, ordered two of them, and will have someone install. I know most of you guys would do it yourself cheaper, but for $200 now I won't have to go through the trauma of giving up my beloved set! The service guy said the big fan doesn't usually go out, and so I'm only replacing the two small ones.

Should I replace the big one also? (don't know part number for that one)
Oh no, don't pay to have them put in, It will only take you about ten minutes to put them in.
If you need the page out of the service manual that shows the fans I will send it to you if you PM me.
I am not sure which one they call #3 but if it is the one on the DMD chip you do not have to do anything but take the back off and it is right there.
If it is that fan and you are not real crazy about taking it apart I would just replace it and not bother with the other one till you need to.
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post #16176 of 16245 Old 01-22-2016, 12:43 PM
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hi, what is the last firmware for samsung 61a750 ....i see firmware 1007.4
where i can download firmware 1007.4
thx
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post #16177 of 16245 Old 01-22-2016, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Clark View Post
After 7 years of flawless operation, my DLP chip started to display the white dots, 1 at first, then 2 after about a week, then 3 two days later. I ordered the replacement chip and did the install which was pretty straight forward. Cleaned everything while I was in there and I still love this set!
I have the white dot problem with two of them. Is there a post that details how to replace the DLP chip? Also it would be nice if the fan(s) on the set could be made quieter. Thanks.
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post #16178 of 16245 Old 01-23-2016, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benoit Alarie View Post
hi, what is the last firmware for samsung 61a750 ....i see firmware 1007.4
where i can download firmware 1007.4
thx
The only version available from Samsung is 1005.3, available thru this link
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...ct/HL61A750A1F
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post #16179 of 16245 Old 01-23-2016, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by StillwaterTownie View Post
I have the white dot problem with two of them. Is there a post that details how to replace the DLP chip? Also it would be nice if the fan(s) on the set could be made quieter. Thanks.
Never mind. I found a youtube video on how to replace the chip.
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post #16180 of 16245 Old 01-23-2016, 05:28 PM
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Big thanks to the board! I bit the bullet and replaced the DMD chip, $185 Amazon via shopjimmy.com. No more white dots. The picture is actually better than new now. It took me about 2.5 hours total. I could do the whole thing over easily in under 30 minutes. It's one of those things that is really simple, except the first time you do it.

I found 2 sets of instructions. The YouTube one is a bit generic and things look slightly different than our TV. I found another one specific to our TV. It had you remove the 3 screws the YouTube Video says not to remove. I recommend not moving the screws and the board will come apart like the YouTube video with the bracket still connected to the back. So I had to jack around with it an extra half hour to get the geometry right. It is pretty simple, loosen those three screws move the card around until Geometry is really close, then you can finish up with the final adjustment with the remove.

After I had the TV all back together, I noticed some of the text on the screen was slightly blurry. The YouTube instructions mention adjusting the focus, but I could not find the focus. So I went after it again, the little adjustment wheel is about 4 inches to the left and behind that dmd chip, you can find it with your fingers 90 degrees from where your fingers fit between board and power supply.. I wish I had a diagram. After a little trial and error I got it pretty good.

The one thing to mention for those who have not replaced their chip. My new chip makes the brightness, way brighter. I guess the old chip was wearing out a little bit. I have to move the contract and brightness down a bit if I don't want to be blind.

In the end, this board is excellent. I love this TV and so glad I went for it. However, I'm still a bit mad at Samsung. I still think this is a defect that they should fix and stand by their product. Not sure how I feel about buying anymore of their products.
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post #16181 of 16245 Old 01-24-2016, 12:10 PM
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I love this TV and so glad I went for it. However, I'm still a bit mad at Samsung. I still think this is a defect that they should fix and stand by their product. Not sure how I feel about buying anymore of their products.
Mitsubishi, Toshiba, and several others used the same chip and it was not actually manufactured by Samsung so by getting a different brand because you feel Samsung did something wrong you would be hurting yourself if you really preferred the Samsung brand.

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post #16182 of 16245 Old 01-24-2016, 06:34 PM
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Mitsubishi, Toshiba, and several others used the same chip and it was not actually manufactured by Samsung so by getting a different brand because you feel Samsung did something wrong you would be hurting yourself if you really preferred the Samsung brand.
...except that Mitsubishi has been replacing the chip free out of warranty for the last few years.

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post #16183 of 16245 Old 02-12-2016, 12:49 PM
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Successfully replaced the DLP chip today. The mirrors just started to go at seven years and 15,000 hours. I used thermal paste in place of the stock pad so time will tell there. I needed to adjust the horizontal illumination after the job but I honestly don't know if that was out of whack already.
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post #16184 of 16245 Old 02-14-2016, 02:11 PM
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Well its been a long time since I have posted in here!!

So Karma is a bitch... or *******...

So came home yesterday as I bought two cheapy TV's for my wife's sewing room and our bedroom. My Sammy must of thought it was being replaced and had a fit. I later in the evening turned it on and the picture had this yellow overlay. Brought up the menu and sure enough it looks like my blue led went out.

Read a little in this thread and that seems to fit what happened to others when their blue led went out. I attached a picture of what the little TV in the menu with the colored bars looks like.

Now I just have to find where to get a blue led.

LED counter in the menu says I have 9200 hours of use time. Not too bad I think,
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	0214161345.jpg
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Size:	122.5 KB
ID:	1252857  

Drive Fast Take Chances

Speakers: Klipsch KLF 30's, Klipsch C-7, Klipsch RS-52
Sub's: 2 x HSU VTF 3.3's
Receiver: Denon X7200
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post #16185 of 16245 Old 02-14-2016, 03:49 PM
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... Now I just have to find where to get a blue led..,
Available many places, you could start with ebay.

bp07-00031a

Note that most of them will be pullouts (used), but you could get a new one for $$$.
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post #16186 of 16245 Old 02-17-2016, 09:40 AM
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My SMPS board

I was just cleaning out the back of my TV today, noticed I have one of the four capacitors on the SMPS board starting to swell. Can someone please put up a part number for the caps so I can order them?

Thanks!
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post #16187 of 16245 Old 02-17-2016, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post
I was just cleaning out the back of my TV today, noticed I have one of the four capacitors on the SMPS board starting to swell. Can someone please put up a part number for the caps so I can order them?

Thanks!

The values should be on the capacitors themselves.

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post #16188 of 16245 Old 02-17-2016, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post
... one of the four capacitors ...
I'm interpreting this to mean the sub-smps board (the smaller one with slanted side).

Here is a $3 part, Panasonic brand.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ic/EEU-TP1E222

Here is a $1 part, Nichicon brand.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...on/UPW1E222MHD
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post #16189 of 16245 Old 02-19-2016, 04:31 PM
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Yes, you are correct, it is the sub-smps board. Thank you very much for the part information!
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post #16190 of 16245 Old 02-19-2016, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmscott_75077 View Post
Big thanks to the board! I bit the bullet and replaced the DMD chip, $185 Amazon via shopjimmy.com. No more white dots. The picture is actually better than new now. It took me about 2.5 hours total. I could do the whole thing over easily in under 30 minutes. It's one of those things that is really simple, except the first time you do it.

I found 2 sets of instructions. The YouTube one is a bit generic and things look slightly different than our TV. I found another one specific to our TV. It had you remove the 3 screws the YouTube Video says not to remove. I recommend not moving the screws and the board will come apart like the YouTube video with the bracket still connected to the back. So I had to jack around with it an extra half hour to get the geometry right. It is pretty simple, loosen those three screws move the card around until Geometry is really close, then you can finish up with the final adjustment with the remove.

After I had the TV all back together, I noticed some of the text on the screen was slightly blurry. The YouTube instructions mention adjusting the focus, but I could not find the focus. So I went after it again, the little adjustment wheel is about 4 inches to the left and behind that dmd chip, you can find it with your fingers 90 degrees from where your fingers fit between board and power supply.. I wish I had a diagram. After a little trial and error I got it pretty good.

The one thing to mention for those who have not replaced their chip. My new chip makes the brightness, way brighter. I guess the old chip was wearing out a little bit. I have to move the contract and brightness down a bit if I don't want to be blind.

In the end, this board is excellent. I love this TV and so glad I went for it. However, I'm still a bit mad at Samsung. I still think this is a defect that they should fix and stand by their product. Not sure how I feel about buying anymore of their products.
I'm sure I need a new DLP chip now, set has been only gently used over the past 7 years, probably has less than 10,000 hours on the LED engine... I'm about to take the $185 plunge on ordering a new DLP chip, but I've seen watched multiple videos, and NONE of them is exactly of the HL67A750, so I'm mainly worried about inadvertantly taking out the 3 alignment screws accidently. I've seen multiple pictures, and some have the plastic caps, some don't, none appear to be of the exact DMD board on my set... So, can you or anyone else please post a picture showing me the locations of the screws on the DMD board which I should NOT remove? Or a video showing the HL67A750 / HL61A750 teardown and replacement of the DLP chip? Also, anyone have have picture or exact location of where the focus dial is? Otherwise, I'm sure I can handle the repair myself, but I don't want to screw up the alignment of the mirrors or the focus... Also, I've read here that it isn't necessary to pull out the complete light engine assembly, that the DLP chip repair can be done without touching the LED board: http://tso.bzb.us/2013/01/replacing-...-hl61a750.html This guy confuses me because from his pictures, it seems he removed ALL the screws, including those 3 alignment screws on the DMD board! Any help or other guidelines will be appreciated, and thanks for your time, and the otherwise wonderful help provided in calibration, etc over the years.
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post #16191 of 16245 Old 02-20-2016, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zyzzle View Post
... So, can you or anyone else please post a picture showing me the locations of the screws on the DMD board which I should NOT remove?...
Here is a page (23) extracted from the HL67A750 Training Manual, which shows those 3 screws highlited in yellow (4th picture). The page 46 shows the focus knob.

I did this DMD replacement a few years ago, but I did not document it, and my memory of the details is dim.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HL67A750A1F_Training 23.pdf (328.9 KB, 26 views)
File Type: pdf HL67A750A1F_Training 46.pdf (218.8 KB, 22 views)

Last edited by cosmicvoid; 02-20-2016 at 12:53 AM.
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post #16192 of 16245 Old 02-20-2016, 05:08 PM
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OK! Well, those two pictures make it abundantly clear which screws to NOT remove from the DMD board. Thanks most kindly for taking the time to post these PDFs. I'm going to order my DLP replacement chip now (4719-001997 DLP Chip) which of course will be a drop-in replacement for the defective chip on my HL67A750. I'll report back, and hopefully will have a revitalized set, after dealing with the torture of ~500+ white and black dots, which started with a single white dot 4 months ago... While I have the set open, I'll also check for bulging capacitors in the SMS board...
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post #16193 of 16245 Old 02-21-2016, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zyzzle View Post
... While I have the set open, I'll also check for bulging capacitors in the SMS board...
Yes, check both SMPS boards; the one above the mainboard, and the one near the LED driver assy. Check the LED heatsinks for dust and vacuum them out if needed; it will increase the life of the LEDs.
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post #16194 of 16245 Old 02-22-2016, 12:38 PM
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My set is on the fritz again! D'oh!

It failed to fire up the other day. It went through its 3 power up attempt cycles. Concluding with all front LEDs blinking ( I think )
I was not in a mood to do any diag/thinking. I'll poke it with a stick later this week.

about 1.5 years ago I replaced the LED driver board, and more recently the DMD. new blue LED too just before that.
I would be mighty annoyed if that new driver board is already cooked. I would assume there is a power issue further upstream. I left it unplugged for a few days. I'll open it up and check for swelled caps/signs of magic smoke release.

I dont think I will put any more money into this :\ If its a matter of a cleaning/reseat connections/new caps. maybe. Not putting any more hardware into it. sadface.
On the plus side, if this set is dead. I will have a lot of spare parts now, to keep an identical set going that I got from another avs member a while ago. ( or to help another avs member out/sell on ebay/whatever)
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post #16195 of 16245 Old 02-23-2016, 05:31 PM
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Here is some good news, and some new info I havent seen before.

I swapped power supplies from my other set to confirm that was all I needed. I'll fix the other sub power supply at my leisure to get the 2nd set back online.

The new info is another symptom of a marginal power supply for others to use while troubleshooting. The LED output level can not be set from within the on screen menu. The setting can be changed, but it has no effect. Auto/Max/Hi/Med/Low made no difference in light output. I had this symptom for years, but was not sure if it was just an unimplemented feature, or a software bug. After swapping power supplies, I have regained LED level control.

I also had intermittent power ups. ( would fire on the 2nd attempt every so often ).
And I had some power hum audible in the analog audio out. I got a DAC weeks after I first noticed that hum, so didn't need to put up with it very much.

No visible physical signs of bad caps. I guess until I replace the caps I cant say for sure that's what the problem with this power unit is... we shall see.

In hind-hind sight, I bet a marginal power supply may have cooked my first LED driver board... which in hind sight I believe cooked 2 blue LEDs. ( search for my earlier posts if you care )
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Last edited by agentrnge; 02-24-2016 at 04:25 PM.
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post #16196 of 16245 Old 02-27-2016, 04:32 AM
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Yes, check both SMPS boards; the one above the mainboard, and the one near the LED driver assy. Check the LED heatsinks for dust and vacuum them out if needed; it will increase the life of the LEDs.
Hooray, and praise the electronic gods, for I now have a like-new set, with NO white dots. I received and replaced the DLP chip successfully, after the first attempt. The picture is pristine, so I guess NO dust got on the replacement DLP chip or the lens. No bulging caps, everything looks excellent inside, after a good dusting and vacuum. It is just a shame that I had to spend 4 hours doing this, with some trepidation, even... At least I double-checked everything, to much avail, and had success. It was a lesson in diligence. My set only has 7820 hours on the LED engine. Seems like that is ridiculous to have the DLP chip fail so early... Hopefully the replacement will last me AT LEAST another 7820 hours! Hopefully 30 - 40,000 hours. Thanks again for the help and prodding...
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post #16197 of 16245 Old 02-28-2016, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SeekingNirvana View Post
Ok I ordered the panasonic cap from digikey, and have it in my possession. I notice that one of the leads is longer than the other, does this cap get oriented on the sub smps a certain way? Like it the longer lead the + or -?

I do have a soldering pen and understand the basics. I plan to use the pen to heat up the existing solder and remove the damaged cap. I am guessing there will be some left over solder on the board, does this solder need to be removed? I have some of that copper braided stuff that will soak up any solder......

I am sure it is pretty strait forward.....just remove and replace. I just don't know if there are any steps that I might be overlooking.

Any pointers would be appreciated.
I'm finally going to replace the cap.......how long should I wait to mess with the board after I unplug the tv? Is there a danger with all the caps on the board?

My dual sealed LMS 5400 Ultra build
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...0-build-4.html
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post #16198 of 16245 Old 02-28-2016, 06:02 PM
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... I plan to use the pen to heat up the existing solder and remove the damaged cap...
I'm finally going to replace the cap.......how long should I wait to mess with the board after I unplug the tv? Is there a danger with all the caps on the board?
A couple hours should do; the lower voltage caps are not dangerous, but the 100V and up can hold a charge for many minutes, although a bad cap probably not so much.

You may need more than a "pen", as the standup caps tend to have eyelets in the the pcb holes, so that requires more heat... like 100 watts or so. My favorite desoldering tool is a 'solder sucker', as I find that braid commonly oxidizes when not being used, so it won't soak up solder easily unless you reflux it.
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post #16199 of 16245 Old 02-29-2016, 05:36 PM
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The cap replacement was unsuccessful, turns out its a 450v cap instead of a 400v.......

Yesterday morning I turned on my tv and everything was green, I immediately thought I lost a LED, but I dont think thats the case. I turned the tv off then back on and everything was red. So I turned it off again and it flickered all the LED colors then the screen went black. I turned it off at least 5 times and every time it would flicker just for a few seconds and the screen would go black. While the screen was black I did not see any change in the front indicator LED lights. At the same time the buzz that I have had for months was more of a solid buzz, so the electrical buzz got louder and more solid

I decided to bust out the cap from digikey, and the solder pen. When I took the sub smps board out and removed the bad cap, I compared the new cap to the cap off of the board. I noticed that the stock cap was 450v and the new cap I had was 400v. I replaced it anyways (hopefully not a potentially dumb move) and put the board back in. When I fired up the tv I got the chime and the power button turned blue, but no picture, it was black and the tv kept cycling. I figured that it was because the cap was 400v. I still had the original sub smps board (I purchased a new board a few months back, and had the original) and I took the cap off of that board (both original and new boards had 450v caps). It didnt look like it was bulging, only the small caps on that board were bulging. I put this cap on my new board and tried to fire up the tv. The tv showed the "no signal" in normal color (I did not have it hooked up to anything) but it had a really loud buzz. I noticed one of the leads was loose, probably why it was buzzing. So that kinda made me think its the 400v cap that would not allow it to turn on.

Could a failing cap on the sub smps make the LED's change color and flicker? Also could a 400v cap instead of a 450v cap make the tv not fire up?

I went to digikey thinking i could just pick out a 450v 100uf cap, but there are so many options....temp, ripple current, esr @cosmicvoid Mind linking the cap? Also maybe the smaller caps so I can rebuild my stock board? The smaller cap 25v 2200uf.

BTW your right about the solder "pen" it worked but not very well. I think its like 40w. I felt I had to keep it on the solder for a long time. Hopefully it wont damage the board. I think a hot gun would get it done quick and not heat up the board too much,

Last edited by SeekingNirvana; 02-29-2016 at 08:11 PM.
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post #16200 of 16245 Old 02-29-2016, 08:56 PM
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The cap replacement was unsuccessful, turns out its a 450v cap instead of a 400v.......
Sorry for the bum steer. A 100uF cap with the 450V rating is here:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...0S/565-1481-ND

The smaller cap 25v 2200uf can be found in my post here:
2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ
Quote:
Could a failing cap on the sub smps make the LED's change color and flicker? Also could a 400v cap instead of a 450v cap make the tv not fire up?
The 400V cap would not alone cause the board to fail to function, although it may cause a shorter lifetime for that cap. The color/flicker symptom suggests to me that the sub-smps is still not providing a stable source of 16V to the LED driver. I have no idea what the buzz means, unless it is due to a problem in the main-smps which puts a lot of power supply ripple feeding the audio circuits. Is the buzz coming from the speakers?
Quote:
I noticed one of the leads was loose, probably why it was buzzing.
This suggests that a loose ground connection might contribute to the buzz.

Maybe you have problems on more than one board. I have a spare HL67A750 that I picked up cheap (not working) which had similar symptoms to your flicker LEDs & no picture. The problem was on the main-smps not feeding a solid 300V to the sub-smps so the 16V would die as soon as the LEDs came on. So maybe your buzz is a main-smps fault which causes a sub-smps fault. Without measuring voltages during turn-on, there is no way to be sure, without replacing both boards.

Afterthought: it is common for electrolytic caps to fail after 5~10 years, especially in consumer electronics (implying low cost parts). It might be easier to replace them all, so you can eliminate that possibility. Not all bad caps will actually bulge, you cant be sure unless you remove them and test them out-of-circuit. At which point, replacement is not much additional effort.

Last edited by cosmicvoid; 02-29-2016 at 09:07 PM.
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