2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 544 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16291 of 16305 Old 06-10-2016, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I'd guess that either/both the main-smps or sub-smps are dying. Typically caused by electrolytic caps going bad (usually, but not always, the top of the caps will start to bulge).
Thanks for the reply. Is that a pretty easy/cheap fix?
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post #16292 of 16305 Old 06-10-2016, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by sdstp View Post
Is that a pretty easy/cheap fix?
Depends on how you approach it. Do you have electrical skills, and a voltmeter, and soldering tools?

Or would you farm it out to a TV repair shop?

If its just replacing caps, the parts cost could be $25~50. If there's a labor charge, then who knows?
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post #16293 of 16305 Old 06-11-2016, 08:16 AM
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Power On Issue

I have the tools although my soldering iron is junk but I wanted to get a new one anyways. I like the idea of being able to keep the tv running. I put a new DLP chip in it. I noticed some posts by stanman2242 and also his listings on ebay. I would be happy to buy the part if I knew which one to buy. To properly diagnose the issues how much to I need to take apart? Is that something that I can check with a visual or will I need to pull components and test them with a multimeter?

How much would a sort of working tv worth? Again LEDS are at 8900 hours and new DLP chip.
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post #16294 of 16305 Old 06-11-2016, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by sdstp View Post
I have the tools although my soldering iron is junk but I wanted to get a new one anyways.
For replacing the large caps, you will need a 100W gun or iron because these have eyelets in the pcb which requires more heat capacity.
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I would be happy to buy the part if I knew which one to buy.
There are potentially several parts you may need.
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To properly diagnose the issues how much to I need to take apart?
Initially, the lower rear cover of the set.
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Is that something that I can check with a visual or will I need to pull components and test them with a multimeter?
You will need to test the 300V from the main-smps, and the 16V from the sub-smps, during the startup cycle issue, to determine which one is failing first. That will direct you to which module to examine.

This topic has been discussed repeatedly ( i.e. beaten to death) in the past couple years, as it is the most popular reason for set failure. Start by looking thru the past 20 or 30 pages of this forum and you'll find descriptions, suggestions, part numbers, and sources for all of this.
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post #16295 of 16305 Old 06-28-2016, 07:10 PM
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Unhappy Attack of the dead pixels/mirrors

So, after almost seven years, I've been visited by the mirror gremlin. Started out with black dots, and then white ones appeared, and finally a couple of red ones. At first it was just three dots, and was that way for several weeks, then all of sudden in the last month the number has grown to over 60.

I've decided to repair this set and wait until there's more 4k content before buying a new one. Not really a money issue, more of a "Why give give the bastards money when there isn't any content?"

Besides vacuuming it out, is there anything else I should do while I've got the TV open? I plan on checking for bulging caps, but thought you guys might have some other thoughts.

Thank you guys for all of posts with regards to repairing this TV.
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post #16296 of 16305 Old 06-28-2016, 08:12 PM
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let us know how much it cost you to fix the dead pixels. i remember looking for new DLP chips and it was too expensive to fix (I remember this being the problem)...
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post #16297 of 16305 Old 06-28-2016, 11:40 PM
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let us know how much it cost you to fix the dead pixels. i remember looking for new DLP chips and it was too expensive to fix (I remember this being the problem)...
$185 new from shopjimmy.com. Yes, that is a good deal to spend on a seven-year-old TV, but as I said in my previous post, I'm not too interested in spending any more money on a new set. Maybe I'm getting crotchety in my old age, but I'm trying to extricate myself from the habits of our throw-away society, and don't want to support it fiscally any more than I have to. I had a Mitsubishi WD-57831 that failed on me in less than two years and was a model that was part of a class action lawsuit. Costco was generous enough to take it back and refund my money, even though it was after they instituted the 90-day return policy. The TV that replaced was a Toshiba TW40X81 DLP that I bought in 2000, which I gave to a friend. It just died three months ago (color wheel I think), after surviving 16 years without a single repair, not even a bulb replacement. That's what I expect out of a TV.

And get off my lawn!
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post #16298 of 16305 Old 06-29-2016, 12:45 PM
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Gave up...

I decided not to try and fix it again. Makes me sad but I found a decent deal on a last years Vizio at Costco. So, I have a mostly working 61". The dlp chip is fairly new but it sounds like the capacitors on the board need replacement. I have not taken it apart to diagnosis. If you are in the San Diego area and are interested, pm me. Thanks!
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post #16299 of 16305 Old 07-09-2016, 03:13 PM
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DMD chip installed; image severely blurred

Hi, everyone,

We've recently swapped out the DMD chip on our Samsung after experiencing the "starry night" phenomenon (white spots across the screen).

After replacing the DMD chip with one ordered from ShopJimmy, we cleaned the mirror inside the engine and the projector, and after reseating the board and sliding the light engine back into the TV, the white spots are gone, but the image is really, really blurry.

Following further instructions, we adjusted the focus wheel; turning it counterclockwise made the image progressively worse, but turning it clockwise made it better. The issue is that we've turned the focus wheel as far as it will go lockwise, and if we could just get it to go further, we might be able to bring the image into focus.

Haven't swapped the old chip in to see if the new one is defective or not yet, but we've also tried overtightening and undertightening the four screws on the outside of the board and the 8 screws on the heatsink.

Any other ideas on how to bring the image into focus? We're so close and feel like we could get there if we could just keep turning the dial clockwise.
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post #16300 of 16305 Old 07-09-2016, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bscs View Post
Hi, everyone,

We've recently swapped out the DMD chip on our Samsung after experiencing the "starry night" phenomenon (white spots across the screen).

After replacing the DMD chip with one ordered from ShopJimmy, we cleaned the mirror inside the engine and the projector, and after reseating the board and sliding the light engine back into the TV, the white spots are gone, but the image is really, really blurry.

Following further instructions, we adjusted the focus wheel; turning it clockwise made the image progressively worse, but turning it all the way counterclockwise made it better. The issue is that we've turned the focus wheel as far as it will go counterclockwise, and if we could just get it to go further, we might be able to bring the image into focus.

Haven't swapped the old chip in to see if the new one is defective or not yet, but we've also tried overtightening and undertightening the four screws on the outside of the board and the 8 screws on the heatsink.

Any other ideas on how to bring the image into focus? We're so close and feel like we could get the image in focus eventually if we could just keep turning the dial counterclockwise.
Sorry for the double post; edited the directions to clarify that turning it all the way counter-clockwise makes it better and clockwise makes it worse.
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post #16301 of 16305 Old 07-09-2016, 09:42 PM
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... Any other ideas on how to bring the image into focus? We're so close and feel like we could get there if we could just keep turning the dial clockwise.
Are you sure that the light engine is fully seated in the chassis? I dont have a set opened up, and its been a few years since I did any work in that area, but I seem to recall there is a ridge is the chassis, and the light engine front edge has to go over and beyond the ridge to seat properly. Is there any gap between the light engine rear edge and the chassis (where the two screws hold it in place)?

Else, I'd try removing and checking the DMD board, and remounting it.

Hopefully I'm not mis-remembering this stuff.
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post #16302 of 16305 Old 07-10-2016, 08:29 AM
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Yes, try re-seating the dmd. Also, since you cleaned the mirror, double check that there is no left over residue/film from the cleaner on the mirror. Even a very slight smudge or film on the mirror could be magnified thus yielding a blurry image. Good luck.
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post #16303 of 16305 Old 07-10-2016, 09:43 AM
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Yes, try re-seating the dmd. Also, since you cleaned the mirror, double check that there is no left over residue/film from the cleaner on the mirror. Even a very slight smudge or film on the mirror could be magnified thus yielding a blurry image. Good luck.
Should we use any kind of a cleaner product on it? I've used a microfiber cloth before.

Also, when reseating/remounting the chip, is it best to press the chip securely into the board or let it rest on top (pins aligned) and secure it lightly? It seems like when we removed it the first time, it just sort of fell out. Should we try placing the DMD chip in first and then placing the board on top of it into position?

Would tightening the screws too hard or loose make a difference as well? When installing them, I tighten them right up until the first bit of resistance.

As far as seating the engine, there isn't a gap (as far as I can tell) between the screws and the chasis, but we're wondering if there isn't some ridge or way to push it further back into the TV. When we took the round cover off the sides, we could see a bit of foam between the lens and the chasis, so we're wondering if it might be possible to push it back more.

Giving it another shot today!
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post #16304 of 16305 Old 07-10-2016, 03:44 PM
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It's been awhile since I changed mine but here is the guide I used. http://tso.bzb.us/2013/01/replacing-...-hl61a750.html
As to cleaning...if the image is a consistent even blurring over the whole screen vs streaks or blogs of blur then it probably is not an issue with the mirror cleaning...it maybe the dmd not in the proper place or torqued down enough etc.

Again it's been a couple years since I done ours...sorry I can't be of more help.
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post #16305 of 16305 Old Today, 02:15 PM
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Can someone tell me why the "Entertainment" option is grayed out in the menu under setup? I am trying to change it to game so that I can play some PS3. I tried looking in the picture menu thinking that there was a setting there that might activate it....no luck though. Page 68 in the manual explains how to use the different modes, and how to turn them on, but nothing on why it would be grayed out.

My dual sealed LMS 5400 Ultra build
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...0-build-4.html
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