2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 544 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16291 of 16319 Old 06-10-2016, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I'd guess that either/both the main-smps or sub-smps are dying. Typically caused by electrolytic caps going bad (usually, but not always, the top of the caps will start to bulge).
Thanks for the reply. Is that a pretty easy/cheap fix?
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post #16292 of 16319 Old 06-10-2016, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdstp View Post
Is that a pretty easy/cheap fix?
Depends on how you approach it. Do you have electrical skills, and a voltmeter, and soldering tools?

Or would you farm it out to a TV repair shop?

If its just replacing caps, the parts cost could be $25~50. If there's a labor charge, then who knows?
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post #16293 of 16319 Old 06-11-2016, 08:16 AM
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Power On Issue

I have the tools although my soldering iron is junk but I wanted to get a new one anyways. I like the idea of being able to keep the tv running. I put a new DLP chip in it. I noticed some posts by stanman2242 and also his listings on ebay. I would be happy to buy the part if I knew which one to buy. To properly diagnose the issues how much to I need to take apart? Is that something that I can check with a visual or will I need to pull components and test them with a multimeter?

How much would a sort of working tv worth? Again LEDS are at 8900 hours and new DLP chip.
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post #16294 of 16319 Old 06-11-2016, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdstp View Post
I have the tools although my soldering iron is junk but I wanted to get a new one anyways.
For replacing the large caps, you will need a 100W gun or iron because these have eyelets in the pcb which requires more heat capacity.
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I would be happy to buy the part if I knew which one to buy.
There are potentially several parts you may need.
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To properly diagnose the issues how much to I need to take apart?
Initially, the lower rear cover of the set.
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Is that something that I can check with a visual or will I need to pull components and test them with a multimeter?
You will need to test the 300V from the main-smps, and the 16V from the sub-smps, during the startup cycle issue, to determine which one is failing first. That will direct you to which module to examine.

This topic has been discussed repeatedly ( i.e. beaten to death) in the past couple years, as it is the most popular reason for set failure. Start by looking thru the past 20 or 30 pages of this forum and you'll find descriptions, suggestions, part numbers, and sources for all of this.
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post #16295 of 16319 Old 06-28-2016, 07:10 PM
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Unhappy Attack of the dead pixels/mirrors

So, after almost eight years, I've been visited by the mirror gremlin. Started out with black dots, and then white ones appeared, and finally a couple of red ones. At first it was just three dots, and was that way for several weeks, then all of sudden in the last month the number has grown to over 60.

I've decided to repair this set and wait until there's more 4k content before buying a new one. Not really a money issue, more of a "Why give give the bastards money when there isn't any content?"

Besides vacuuming it out, is there anything else I should do while I've got the TV open? I plan on checking for bulging caps, but thought you guys might have some other thoughts.

Thank you guys for all of posts with regards to repairing this TV.

Last edited by LazLong; 07-24-2016 at 06:58 AM.
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post #16296 of 16319 Old 06-28-2016, 08:12 PM
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let us know how much it cost you to fix the dead pixels. i remember looking for new DLP chips and it was too expensive to fix (I remember this being the problem)...
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post #16297 of 16319 Old 06-28-2016, 11:40 PM
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let us know how much it cost you to fix the dead pixels. i remember looking for new DLP chips and it was too expensive to fix (I remember this being the problem)...
$185 new from shopjimmy.com. Yes, that is a good deal to spend on a seven-year-old TV, but as I said in my previous post, I'm not too interested in spending any more money on a new set. Maybe I'm getting crotchety in my old age, but I'm trying to extricate myself from the habits of our throw-away society, and don't want to support it fiscally any more than I have to. I had a Mitsubishi WD-57831 that failed on me in less than two years and was a model that was part of a class action lawsuit. Costco was generous enough to take it back and refund my money, even though it was after they instituted the 90-day return policy. The TV that replaced was a Toshiba TW40X81 DLP that I bought in 2000, which I gave to a friend. It just died three months ago (color wheel I think), after surviving 16 years without a single repair, not even a bulb replacement. That's what I expect out of a TV.

And get off my lawn!
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post #16298 of 16319 Old 06-29-2016, 12:45 PM
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Gave up...

I decided not to try and fix it again. Makes me sad but I found a decent deal on a last years Vizio at Costco. So, I have a mostly working 61". The dlp chip is fairly new but it sounds like the capacitors on the board need replacement. I have not taken it apart to diagnosis. If you are in the San Diego area and are interested, pm me. Thanks!
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post #16299 of 16319 Old 07-09-2016, 03:13 PM
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DMD chip installed; image severely blurred

Hi, everyone,

We've recently swapped out the DMD chip on our Samsung after experiencing the "starry night" phenomenon (white spots across the screen).

After replacing the DMD chip with one ordered from ShopJimmy, we cleaned the mirror inside the engine and the projector, and after reseating the board and sliding the light engine back into the TV, the white spots are gone, but the image is really, really blurry.

Following further instructions, we adjusted the focus wheel; turning it counterclockwise made the image progressively worse, but turning it clockwise made it better. The issue is that we've turned the focus wheel as far as it will go lockwise, and if we could just get it to go further, we might be able to bring the image into focus.

Haven't swapped the old chip in to see if the new one is defective or not yet, but we've also tried overtightening and undertightening the four screws on the outside of the board and the 8 screws on the heatsink.

Any other ideas on how to bring the image into focus? We're so close and feel like we could get there if we could just keep turning the dial clockwise.
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post #16300 of 16319 Old 07-09-2016, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bscs View Post
Hi, everyone,

We've recently swapped out the DMD chip on our Samsung after experiencing the "starry night" phenomenon (white spots across the screen).

After replacing the DMD chip with one ordered from ShopJimmy, we cleaned the mirror inside the engine and the projector, and after reseating the board and sliding the light engine back into the TV, the white spots are gone, but the image is really, really blurry.

Following further instructions, we adjusted the focus wheel; turning it clockwise made the image progressively worse, but turning it all the way counterclockwise made it better. The issue is that we've turned the focus wheel as far as it will go counterclockwise, and if we could just get it to go further, we might be able to bring the image into focus.

Haven't swapped the old chip in to see if the new one is defective or not yet, but we've also tried overtightening and undertightening the four screws on the outside of the board and the 8 screws on the heatsink.

Any other ideas on how to bring the image into focus? We're so close and feel like we could get the image in focus eventually if we could just keep turning the dial counterclockwise.
Sorry for the double post; edited the directions to clarify that turning it all the way counter-clockwise makes it better and clockwise makes it worse.
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post #16301 of 16319 Old 07-09-2016, 09:42 PM
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... Any other ideas on how to bring the image into focus? We're so close and feel like we could get there if we could just keep turning the dial clockwise.
Are you sure that the light engine is fully seated in the chassis? I dont have a set opened up, and its been a few years since I did any work in that area, but I seem to recall there is a ridge is the chassis, and the light engine front edge has to go over and beyond the ridge to seat properly. Is there any gap between the light engine rear edge and the chassis (where the two screws hold it in place)?

Else, I'd try removing and checking the DMD board, and remounting it.

Hopefully I'm not mis-remembering this stuff.
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post #16302 of 16319 Old 07-10-2016, 08:29 AM
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Yes, try re-seating the dmd. Also, since you cleaned the mirror, double check that there is no left over residue/film from the cleaner on the mirror. Even a very slight smudge or film on the mirror could be magnified thus yielding a blurry image. Good luck.
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post #16303 of 16319 Old 07-10-2016, 09:43 AM
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Yes, try re-seating the dmd. Also, since you cleaned the mirror, double check that there is no left over residue/film from the cleaner on the mirror. Even a very slight smudge or film on the mirror could be magnified thus yielding a blurry image. Good luck.
Should we use any kind of a cleaner product on it? I've used a microfiber cloth before.

Also, when reseating/remounting the chip, is it best to press the chip securely into the board or let it rest on top (pins aligned) and secure it lightly? It seems like when we removed it the first time, it just sort of fell out. Should we try placing the DMD chip in first and then placing the board on top of it into position?

Would tightening the screws too hard or loose make a difference as well? When installing them, I tighten them right up until the first bit of resistance.

As far as seating the engine, there isn't a gap (as far as I can tell) between the screws and the chasis, but we're wondering if there isn't some ridge or way to push it further back into the TV. When we took the round cover off the sides, we could see a bit of foam between the lens and the chasis, so we're wondering if it might be possible to push it back more.

Giving it another shot today!
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post #16304 of 16319 Old 07-10-2016, 03:44 PM
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It's been awhile since I changed mine but here is the guide I used. http://tso.bzb.us/2013/01/replacing-...-hl61a750.html
As to cleaning...if the image is a consistent even blurring over the whole screen vs streaks or blogs of blur then it probably is not an issue with the mirror cleaning...it maybe the dmd not in the proper place or torqued down enough etc.

Again it's been a couple years since I done ours...sorry I can't be of more help.
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post #16305 of 16319 Old 07-23-2016, 02:15 PM
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Can someone tell me why the "Entertainment" option is grayed out in the menu under setup? I am trying to change it to game so that I can play some PS3. I tried looking in the picture menu thinking that there was a setting there that might activate it....no luck though. Page 68 in the manual explains how to use the different modes, and how to turn them on, but nothing on why it would be grayed out.

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http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...0-build-4.html
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post #16306 of 16319 Old 07-24-2016, 07:31 AM
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DMD chip replaced and I'm a happy HL61A750 owner again!

Replaced the DMD in my TV last night. I followed the instructions from http://tso.bzb.us/2013/01/replacing-...-hl61a750.html along with the service manual. I found the service manual to be more useful/accurate than the instructions at the link, though YMMV. It really is a simple job.

My only advice is to have a second person around to to help you when it comes time to align the DMD. Instead of the directions at the link above with respect to using the menu as a reference point to aligning the DMD, use the grid (or cross-hatch pattern) in the display calibration section of the service menu. To get to the service menu shut the TV off and then press "Mute" "1" "8" "2" "Power" (ie turn it on). Once in the service menu select "DDP3021" and hit "OK." Once there hit the right arrow key repeatedly until you get to the grid pattern. If the display is off you will need to adjust the display. To do this slightly loosen the three screws that attach the DMD board to the light engine. The screws are under plastic caps embeded in the DMD board RF shield, which can be removed with needle-nosed pliers. Loosen the scews only as much as is required to allow you to be able to move the DMD board slightly. If they are too loose then it will be hard to keep the board in position (without it moving) when re-tightening them. Remember that the directional relationship when looking at the DMD board is the reverse of the person staring at the test pattern. i.e. pushing the DMD board down makes the test pattern go up, pushing the board right makes the test pattern move left, etc.

Once I discovered that my DMD wasn't centered properly I loosened the screws and pushed the DMD board all the way to the bottom flush against the chassis. I then used two flat-head screw drivers, one near the left and right bottom corners, to very slowly pry the board upwards while listening to feedback from my partner who was staring at the test pattern. You can either slowly pry or rotate the screw drivers to move the board until it is in position. Then very gingerly tighten the three screws, starting with the left two.

Good luck with your DMD replacement, and I hope this post helps.


PS: If you don't have the service manual, remember Google is your friend. I used the search terms "HL61A750 service manual" and it was the first result. (HL67 and HL61 use the same service manual.)
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post #16307 of 16319 Old 07-28-2016, 12:22 AM
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Can someone tell me why the "Entertainment" option is grayed out in the menu under setup?
Is it disabled on all inputs?
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post #16308 of 16319 Old 07-28-2016, 08:34 AM
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Is it disabled on all inputs?
Actually not sure, I did not try any others. Thing is, I have my laptop/htpc hooked up running Kodi, so I need to keep the input to HDMI3/PC. I will try another input though just to confirm.
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post #16309 of 16319 Old 08-11-2016, 04:31 AM
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Hi All,

I recently sold off my 61" set to a buddy of mine. Everything was fine for a few days until he contacted me to tell me that it's developed these dots at the top edge of the screen, that go away after about 5 minutes of being turned on. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this, and if there's a way to fix it?

Please see the attached pics...
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post #16310 of 16319 Old 08-11-2016, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by koguma View Post
Hi All,

I recently sold off my 61" set to a buddy of mine. Everything was fine for a few days until he contacted me to tell me that it's developed these dots at the top edge of the screen, that go away after about 5 minutes of being turned on. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this, and if there's a way to fix it?

Please see the attached pics...

Just go back a few pages and read....

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post #16311 of 16319 Old 08-11-2016, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Just go back a few pages and read....
I went back about 20 pages and nothing matches exactly. The difference here, is that the issue GOES AWAY after about 5 minutes. If it's a failing DMD chip, why does it 'recover', and is there a way of recovering it completely? Maybe heat gun if it's a solder issue?
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post #16312 of 16319 Old 08-11-2016, 05:27 PM
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... these dots at the top edge of the screen, that go away after about 5 minutes of being turned on. Does anyone have an idea of what could be causing this, and if there's a way to fix it?
Interesting thing is the huge area that is affected, as opposed to just a few dots here and there. If its not the DMD chip, then I'd suspect a heat problem. like maybe the heat sink on the DMD is not well attached, or maybe the DMD fan is flakey and takes a few minutes to spin up to full speed.

Has the set ever been opened and had the dust vacuumed out?
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post #16313 of 16319 Old 08-20-2016, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
Interesting thing is the huge area that is affected, as opposed to just a few dots here and there. If its not the DMD chip, then I'd suspect a heat problem. like maybe the heat sink on the DMD is not well attached, or maybe the DMD fan is flakey and takes a few minutes to spin up to full speed.

Has the set ever been opened and had the dust vacuumed out?
Yes, the set had been opened and cleaned. We tested the fan, it spins up right away. The picture got even worse (attached pics/vids). Any thoughts on what it could be, or where I need to look/disassemble to find?

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post #16314 of 16319 Old 08-20-2016, 08:42 PM
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The "weak or no signal" screen is not a useful example. The other scene is pretty bad. My first move would be to replace the DMD chip. If that is not a cure, I'd replace the DMD board. Both procedures have been discussed a lot recently.
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post #16315 of 16319 Old 08-27-2016, 07:59 AM
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White dots have started to appear. Went from 3 to 16 in a week. Debating on repair or buy something new. I use 3D often and the affordable options in the 65" range are limited. Thoughts? Repair or buy new?
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post #16316 of 16319 Old 08-27-2016, 07:33 PM
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... I use 3D often ... Repair or buy new?
I seriously doubt you will find a new set that will support 3D. Repair (by you) would cost less than $200 (last time I checked), and take an hour. It is discussed often in this thread; look in the last 30 pages.
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post #16317 of 16319 Old Yesterday, 04:35 PM
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61A750 BP96-01726B sub-SMPS Component Identification

If anyone has easy access to a BP96-0172B sub-SMPS board, could you check the rating of two electrolytic caps for me. The caps are at:

CM806 and CB803

If you can help, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
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post #16318 of 16319 Old Yesterday, 10:25 PM
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BP96-0172B sub-SMPS board, could you check the rating of CM806 and CB803
CM806 = 22uF @ 50V
CB803 = 100uF @ 25V
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post #16319 of 16319 Old Today, 08:49 PM
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CM806 = 22uF @ 50V
CB803 = 100uF @ 25V
Thanks for the assist CosmicVoid!! Greatly appreciated!
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