2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 549 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16441 of 16515 Old 01-26-2017, 07:04 PM
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Also page 4-2 service manual. They seem to say replace DMD board a lot early on. What is third box down in flow chart: Is LED for illumination off referring to? Is that the LED that is on the DMD board? I have a light on on my DMD board.
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post #16442 of 16515 Old 01-27-2017, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post
Also page 4-2 service manual... What is third box down in flow chart: Is LED for illumination off referring to?
That is confusing; I would take it to mean the 3 Phlatlight LEDs that create the picture.

Did you ever get voltage readings on the 24 pin connector?
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post #16443 of 16515 Old 01-27-2017, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
That is confusing; I would take it to mean the 3 Phlatlight LEDs that create the picture.

Did you ever get voltage readings on the 24 pin connector?
Yes using pin 23 for ground I measured 11.9 on pin 24. When I attempted to go further in I shorted out on a heat sink cooling fin so aborted the operation for the night. Not a fan of sparks. Next plan is to remove everything from the set so I can access everything from the top right behind the empty set without trying to be a brain surgeon in tight confines. This will give me a opportunity to inspect all the components as well.
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post #16444 of 16515 Old 01-27-2017, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
No! It is NOT the main power supply.
If it was the main power supply it would not even turn on.
It is the BP96-01726B SUB LED pcb.
That is the board that is on the right side of TV looking from back.
These boards had poorly manufactured capacitors on them from the factory
and eventually almost always fail.
I see perhaps 2% failure of main power board at the most based on 200+ TV samples.
The SUB board is the first thing to try because of the high failure rate.
For your problem I would say 95% of the time it is SUB LED board.
Well at this point I am going to have to say Stan is the man. I checked the 24 pin main and got the expected voltages just not exactly how I expected to get them but I suspect that is because I used the same pin 23 for ground. As I mentioned I removed everything outside the back of the TV and was able to test that without trying to be a contortionist. Then I separated the components and cleaned them up again for inspection. The 450V capacitor on the sub-SMPS looked ever so slightly bulged and a couple of the 25V ones do not look as concave as the others. Keep in mind none are bulging but I suspect they may not need to since they should be flat or be slightly concave. Reinstalled because I wanted to be sure I was where I thought I was and there you go...three power cycles and all three front leds flashing.
So I am going to order some caps to replace the big ones on the sub-SMPS. maybe even the smaller caps while I'm at it. Hell I almost want to replace all the caps on the main SMPS since I'm doing all this and have everything out. Thoughts? For me I feel fix the sub-SMPS and if all works then replace caps on main just because this is my luck if I try all and no love then I'm scratching my head. Keep in mind this is a spare time fun project for me because I have logged a lot of hours with that Sammy and I am attached somehow to it. I can't let it go that easy. She's like a girlfriend that was always there in my man cave and she never talked back or told me what to do.
Anyways, thanks for all your guys help and if I am going down the wrong road please let me know. As a side note/question, will a HL67A750 light engine work in a 61" unit. I see they have different part numbers but wonder if the only difference is simple geometry, ie bigger chassis. There is one on sale on evilbay and for that price it is worth it just for the DMD board, driver and leds. Thanks again everyone.
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post #16445 of 16515 Old 01-27-2017, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post
As a side note/question, will a HL67A750 light engine work in a 61" unit. I see they have different part numbers but wonder if the only difference is simple geometry, ie bigger chassis. There is one on sale on evilbay and for that price it is worth it just for the DMD board, driver and leds.
I guess the difference would also be in the optics, to spread the image out to a larger screen.

I have seen your symptoms caused by either or both of:
a) the large caps on the main-smps (the 300v output folds back under load).
b) the caps on the sub-smps (the big one &/or the 4 medium ones).
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post #16446 of 16515 Old 01-27-2017, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I guess the difference would also be in the optics, to spread the image out to a larger screen.

I have seen your symptoms caused by either or both of:
a) the large caps on the main-smps (the 300v output folds back under load).
b) the caps on the sub-smps (the big one &/or the 4 medium ones).
Thanks friend. I just ordered the big caps for the sub-SMPS and if that doesn't work I will buy something from stan that is reported to be known working.
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post #16447 of 16515 Old 02-05-2017, 03:19 PM
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Just popped in to say that my 67" inch is still going strong. I bought it in May 2008, and it never has needed a single repair... even with heavy use. I'll be replacing it this year with a 2017 4K model, but this has been a fine tv with a great picture.

I'm glad to see people are still enjoying theirs too.
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post #16448 of 16515 Old 02-07-2017, 05:46 PM
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I finally did it! Replaced the DLP chip I bought a few weeks ago. Took a little over an hour. I had the light engine almost all back together and remembered I forgot to check the chip for dust. Sure enough there was a speck on it. I did use thermal paste, the pad that came in the installation kit ripped in my hand. I did however have 1 thing happen which I hope will not be an issue down the road. One of the spring screws broke and a threaded piece of it is stuck in the board. There are only 3 of them in there now. What are my odds of trouble? Other than that very easy to replace.

There was not much dust at all and my caps were NOT bulging!

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post #16449 of 16515 Old 02-07-2017, 11:19 PM
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There is no difference in the optics!
I have taken light engines from 50" and put in a 67".
Everything works perfectly, focus is fine and picture fills whole screen.
I guess that is the reason that when I put 61" and 67" cases out for the trash
they keep vanishing before the trash guy shows up.
The HL50A650 guts will go right in a HL61A750 and you have an inexpensive BIG TV.

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post #16450 of 16515 Old 02-08-2017, 08:05 AM
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Hello, I've been dealing with a sub power board issue ( tv just clicks and 3 leds in front, no turn on). Trying to figure out which caps are bad. Can anyone tell me what the readings should be on the 9 caps on the board, thanks . I've been getting regular use out of tv by using a blow dryer to heat up the board (about 30 seconds on high) push power button and starts right up like new! What component is using the heat to be able to work and turn on tv? I'm assuming the caps but just want to verify to make sure I'm on the right track. Thank you
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post #16451 of 16515 Old 02-08-2017, 12:51 PM
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Don't read them, just replace them replace 25 volt with 35 volt and
replace the 450 volt.

One reason you cannot read the four 25 volt caps is a little known fact that they
are all connected together in parallel.
Surprise, surprise!

Readings are meaningless without removing the caps and if you are going to do that
you might as well put new ones in.

I replace a lot of them.
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post #16452 of 16515 Old 03-07-2017, 09:10 PM
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Its been a long time since I've checked in on this thread. After 8 1/2 years of great service my set has developed the dreaded DLP white/black dot syndrome.

I am looking at replacing the DLP chip. I checked out shopjimmy.com and they list two different DLP chips for this set. The site says they are both compatible with the our Samsung sets.
The question I have is, are they identical? Is one preferred over the other? The chips are 4719-001997 and the 276P595010.
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post #16453 of 16515 Old 03-08-2017, 01:18 AM
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I am looking at replacing the DLP chip. I checked out shopjimmy.com and they list two different DLP chips for this set. The site says they are both compatible with the our Samsung sets.
The question I have is, are they identical? Is one preferred over the other? The chips are 4719-001997 and the 276P595010.
I ordered the 4719-00199 after researching here, FWIW. I think the other one includes a microphone component that can be hacked by the CIA, lol.

Matt
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post #16454 of 16515 Old 03-11-2017, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Terminator840 View Post
Its been a long time since I've checked in on this thread. After 8 1/2 years of great service my set has developed the dreaded DLP white/black dot syndrome.

I am looking at replacing the DLP chip. I checked out shopjimmy.com and they list two different DLP chips for this set. The site says they are both compatible with the our Samsung sets.
The question I have is, are they identical? Is one preferred over the other? The chips are 4719-001997 and the 276P595010.
I replaced the DLP chip on my HL61A750 today, with a 4719-001997 from ShopJimmy.com. It took me a couple of hours, which included labeling the many input and output cables before removing them, and vacuuming 9 years of dust. Actually, there wasn't that much dust, considering. Everything went perfectly, and the picture is like new. The first white dot had appeared in November 2016, but my wife didn't notice it, so I said nothing until the second dot appeared three weeks ago. The third dot, much brighter than the others, showed up a week later. That's when we ordered the chip from ShopJimmy. I'm hoping the TV survives until 65" OLED TVs come down in price to about $1,500, which I figure will be in about two years.

Bob
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post #16455 of 16515 Old 03-18-2017, 10:06 AM
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I am in the process of replacing my DLP chip. I can not get a white wire connector to release on the right hand side board. Ive been squeezing on the end and pulling out but i cant get it to release. I am afraid I am going to break it. Any tips?
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post #16456 of 16515 Old 03-18-2017, 10:20 AM
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I am in the process of replacing my DLP chip. I can not get a white wire connector to release on the right hand side board. Ive been squeezing on the end and pulling out but i cant get it to release. I am afraid I am going to break it. Any tips?
Are you sure you need to release that connector? I was able to replace my DLP chip without removng the light engine or touching the right-hand side board.
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post #16457 of 16515 Old 03-18-2017, 07:53 PM
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I am in the process of replacing my DLP chip. I can not get a white wire connector to release on the right hand side board. Ive been squeezing on the end and pulling out but i cant get it to release. I am afraid I am going to break it. Any tips?

I believe that white tab in the middle opens OUT to release. It appears to have a slot that a screwdriver will fit (inserting from the top down) to open the clip. Try that, gently. If that doesn't work (as in that the bottom of the tab needs to open), insert the screwdriver sideways at the bottom of the clip to lever it outwards.

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post #16458 of 16515 Old 03-19-2017, 09:29 PM
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The operation was a sucess. I had heavy dust contamination so I wanted to pull the light engine and give it a good cleaning.

I never got the wire connector to release. I tried a screwdriver, got plenty of extra leverage and I could see it release but it still would not pull out. I ended up pulling the board and I disconnected the wire from the other end.

I dont know if its because I've been watching white dots for a while, but his new chip seems to have better black levels.
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post #16459 of 16515 Old 03-21-2017, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Terminator840 View Post
I am in the process of replacing my DLP chip. I can not get a white wire connector to release on the right hand side board. Ive been squeezing on the end and pulling out but i cant get it to release. I am afraid I am going to break it. Any tips?
I just noticed that the picture of your SUB LED power board shows that it is on it's last legs.
It will crap out on you in near future, you should get a new one if you want to continue
watching TV without problems.

You would put a screwdriver gently underneath the tab at bottom and pry out and up to release.

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post #16460 of 16515 Old 04-14-2017, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic26 View Post
I finally did it! Replaced the DLP chip I bought a few weeks ago. Took a little over an hour. I had the light engine almost all back together and remembered I forgot to check the chip for dust. Sure enough there was a speck on it. I did use thermal paste, the pad that came in the installation kit ripped in my hand. I did however have 1 thing happen which I hope will not be an issue down the road. One of the spring screws broke and a threaded piece of it is stuck in the board. There are only 3 of them in there now. What are my odds of trouble? Other than that very easy to replace.

There was not much dust at all and my caps were NOT bulging!
Dominic26, Any online videos or tutorials that you would recommend?

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post #16461 of 16515 Old 04-14-2017, 08:24 AM
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starting to get the white dot problem. 1 is always there, 2 more are intermittent
is the chip replacement task in the same difficulty level range as the led replacement range (I've done one of those, and it wasn't too much of a nail-biter).
thanks
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post #16462 of 16515 Old 04-15-2017, 10:12 AM
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starting to get the white dot problem. 1 is always there, 2 more are intermittent
is the chip replacement task in the same difficulty level range as the led replacement range (I've done one of those, and it wasn't too much of a nail-biter).
thanks
I replaced my chip a few weeks ago. It wasn't too difficult, especially because I didn't have to remove the light engine. I think you'll find it easier than replacing an LED.
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post #16463 of 16515 Old 04-15-2017, 05:13 PM
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Dominic26, Any online videos or tutorials that you would recommend?
I tried to find a video of the exact set, A750. This was the closest. Being a Samsung it was minor differences. We've been enjoying the set again since the repair.. It is real easy. Just take pictures of all connections before removing wires with your phone. This way you can put it back together by looking at the pictures in reverse order.
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post #16464 of 16515 Old 04-18-2017, 07:08 PM
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I have the 67" version of the HL750 and a weird observation. About a month ago one single white spot appeared. Having read how it spreads I got ready to buy the dlp chip and in preparation watched several videos. Decided that I will order the chip once I get 3 white spots. However, 2 days ago I noticed that the white spot had disappeared. I couldn't believe it.
I have been keeping up with this thread for quite a while and don't remember anyone reporting the disappearance of the white spot. Of course, they may come back with a vengeance. But, for now it is gone. I did wait two days before reporting it here just to make sure. Would like to know if anyone has this experience or has heard of such a thing. It would be nice to get some life from this TV as the right 4K(75"+) is still pricey and 77" OLED is way off my realm.
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post #16465 of 16515 Old 04-18-2017, 07:44 PM
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I had one white dot, sometimes there, sometime not and it was off to the side and not very bright. Then a small cluster appeared closer to the center that is pretty much always there with the one on the side still coming and going... Replacement chip showed up a little bit ago...

-pd
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post #16466 of 16515 Old 04-18-2017, 09:41 PM
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Thanks for that. I kind of thought so but still felt good temporarily to see the spot disappear. I will update what happens.
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post #16467 of 16515 Old 04-19-2017, 12:00 AM
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Thanks for that. I kind of thought so but still felt good temporarily to see the spot disappear. I will update what happens.

You have 1-3 months.

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post #16468 of 16515 Old 04-19-2017, 07:58 AM
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You have 1-3 months.
Thanks. I wasn't sure of the timeline but I was thinking that I must be on borrowed time. I am going to get ready. Will keep a close eye everyday.
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post #16469 of 16515 Old 04-19-2017, 11:16 PM
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Well I managed to replace the chip, all three fans, cleaned things up with a quick visual inspection of the caps. Turned it on, went through service menu and test patterns and all was well, everyone happy...

Went to turn off the tv later and now the thing doesn't want to respond to the remote... Side buttons work, front power button works, just IR is dead both with factory remote (which I just used in the service menu with the patterns) and my daily Harmony remote for the family... (yes I even swapped batteries...)

Unplugged it for a bit (a few times) and sometimes it will respond to IR the first time/first signal only, after that its kaput and I have to hit the physical buttons... Not sure what I did wrong, and I'm pretty sure that I didn't do anything wrong... Guess its just my luck as I was debating whether or not to throw money at the set and obviously finally caved only to be greeted with this new problem...

-pd
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post #16470 of 16515 Old 04-20-2017, 12:04 PM
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Well I managed to replace the chip, all three fans, cleaned things up with a quick visual inspection of the caps. Turned it on, went through service menu and test patterns and all was well, everyone happy...

Went to turn off the tv later and now the thing doesn't want to respond to the remote... Side buttons work, front power button works, just IR is dead both with factory remote (which I just used in the service menu with the patterns) and my daily Harmony remote for the family... (yes I even swapped batteries...)

Unplugged it for a bit (a few times) and sometimes it will respond to IR the first time/first signal only, after that its kaput and I have to hit the physical buttons... Not sure what I did wrong, and I'm pretty sure that I didn't do anything wrong... Guess its just my luck as I was debating whether or not to throw money at the set and obviously finally caved only to be greeted with this new problem...

-pd
Can you do a hard reset? I'm not familiar with the procedure for this model, but it usually involves pressing two buttons on the TV at the same time.

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