2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 550 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16471 of 16495 Old 04-21-2017, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pdermody View Post
Well I managed to replace the chip, all three fans, cleaned things up with a quick visual inspection of the caps. Turned it on, went through service menu and test patterns and all was well, everyone happy...

Went to turn off the tv later and now the thing doesn't want to respond to the remote... Side buttons work, front power button works, just IR is dead both with factory remote (which I just used in the service menu with the patterns) and my daily Harmony remote for the family... (yes I even swapped batteries...)

Unplugged it for a bit (a few times) and sometimes it will respond to IR the first time/first signal only, after that its kaput and I have to hit the physical buttons... Not sure what I did wrong, and I'm pretty sure that I didn't do anything wrong... Guess its just my luck as I was debating whether or not to throw money at the set and obviously finally caved only to be greeted with this new problem...

-pd
Sorry to hear that you are having this problem after all the hard work and the money you spent on the DLP replacement chip. I hope you can somehow solve the problem. Good luck.
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post #16472 of 16495 Old 04-21-2017, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Can you do a hard reset? I'm not familiar with the procedure for this model, but it usually involves pressing two buttons on the TV at the same time.
Quickly searching through this thread and service manual, I think the only hard reset is just unplugging it for a bit. I did do that a few times and for a brief moment it does seem to work for at least the first command (power on in my case, actually I did manage to get back into the service menu at one point after I tore down the entire set to have a look at the IR board) but after about 15-20 minutes it quit accepting commands again.

-pd
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post #16473 of 16495 Old 04-21-2017, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pdermody View Post
... Went to turn off the tv later and now the thing doesn't want to respond to the remote... Side buttons work, front power button works, just IR is dead both with factory remote (which I just used in the service menu with the patterns) and my daily Harmony remote for the family... (yes I even swapped batteries...)

Unplugged it for a bit (a few times) and sometimes it will respond to IR the first time/first signal only, after that its kaput and I have to hit the physical buttons... Not sure what I did wrong, and I'm pretty sure that I didn't do anything wrong... Guess its just my luck as I was debating whether or not to throw money at the set and obviously finally caved only to be greeted with this new problem...
I looked in the service manual, and I see that there is a "RMC" board (Samsung BP96-02052A) which is available for $36. This is the IR interface board which contains the power button switch, the leds that light up the power button, and the IR sensor chip. This board connects to the indicator board ( along with the keypad board ), which then connects to the main board. Since all these other items seem to be functional, it suggests that the IR sensor chip has become flakey, which is a really freaky rare issue.

It would be a real hassle to replace the RMC board, since it is inside the screen frame, but I can not offer any other suggestion.

Edit: But I see that you have examined that RMC board, so the replacement may not be so hard.
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post #16474 of 16495 Old 04-21-2017, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vishwa Somayaji View Post
Sorry to hear that you are having this problem after all the hard work and the money you spent on the DLP replacement chip. I hope you can somehow solve the problem. Good luck.
I'm up and running again and the wife is happy. Originally after giving up on IR I thought I would just go CEC and hooked up a raspberry pi and it seemed to work - except for power off for whatever reason... I guess Samsung's half ass CEC implementation? Not sure.

After getting bummed out about CEC not working properly, I decided to explore the serial/exlink communication port and hooked up the pi to that to see if it would work and it did. So now as of a few minutes ago I have everything setup the way I want with the remote and the wife is happy.

So I have kicked the proverbial can down the road (assuming nothing else breaks... looking for wood). I will say swapping out the chip and cleaning off the fine layer of dust on the lens did seem to make things brighter/pop again along with perceived contrast increase - so I think I made the right decision for now...

I may explore replacing the IR board later (if I can find one..) , along with the caps as a preventative measure - unless I find a 70"+ set that I am happy with (OLED is close but that is 65 - at least in my price range... and the uniformity issues that I can't seem to unsee once I have found them...)

-pd
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post #16475 of 16495 Old 04-21-2017, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I looked in the service manual, and I see that there is a "RMC" board (Samsung BP96-02052A) which is available for $36. This is the IR interface board which contains the power button switch, the leds that light up the power button, and the IR sensor chip. This board connects to the indicator board ( along with the keypad board ), which then connects to the main board. Since all these other items seem to be functional, it suggests that the IR sensor chip has become flakey, which is a really freaky rare issue.

It would be a real hassle to replace the RMC board, since it is inside the screen frame, but I can not offer any other suggestion.
Man - you have a different service manual than what is readily out there? That is a nice picture.

Yeah I looked around for the board, seems to be special order everywhere and the sites that can order seem to have really bad reviews.

As for getting to the RMC board, been there, done that. Out of frustration I literally tore the entire set down and inspected the board and cables, etc. So now that I have done it once, I can get back in there pretty fast (also now that I know there are two more screws inside the bottom that you need to remove that the manual I have does not seem to mention...).

The power button does work, and the side buttons do work so I am assuming it is just purely the IR portion of the RMC. So maybe it would be worth it to replace it if I decide to go back in and replace all the caps...

-pd
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post #16476 of 16495 Old 04-22-2017, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdermody View Post
... The power button does work, and the side buttons do work so I am assuming it is just purely the IR portion of the RMC. So maybe it would be worth it to replace it if I decide to go back in and replace all the caps...
Now that you have a work-around in place, there is no pressure to find a board quickly. You could just order from samsungparts.com and wait 6 weeks.

It's nice to see that a set owner is willing to tear down and dig into the set to get at the root of a problem. I, too, would do that if I actually needed to, but my main HL67A750 has been trouble free for 8.5 years , and I got a non-working set for cheap some years ago that I repaired to have a spare. I'm not itching to "upgrade" to a shoddily made 4K set.

It would be interesting to find out if the IR sensor is a common part that can be replaced or substituted. I can't tell from the photo in the manual, and I don't feel like opening up the set to see.
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post #16477 of 16495 Old 04-22-2017, 11:53 PM
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The IR sensor is actually built into the Power Button assembly.
I have never heard of one going bad but the thing to do would be to get the whole
Assembly like attached pic and plug into your mainboard and see if it works before you
tear the front off your case.
If you are lazy you could just get the assembly and let it hang out of case until you
get in the mood (if ever) to tear the front off,
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Last edited by stanman2242; 04-23-2017 at 12:06 AM. Reason: add picture
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post #16478 of 16495 Old 04-23-2017, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
The IR sensor is actually built into the Power Button assembly.
I have never heard of one going bad but the thing to do would be to get the whole
Assembly like attached pic and plug into your mainboard and see if it works before you
tear the front off your case.
If you are lazy you could just get the assembly and let it hang out of case until you
get in the mood (if ever) to tear the front off,
Yeah I had it in my hand when I tore it apart, and was a little surprised that the IR was not working yet power button and side buttons worked (gave me hope that the main board is probably fine as reading whatever troubleshooting doc says replace RMC board, then mainboard...). Getting to it again isn't too big of a deal now that I have done it once, I will order just the RMC board and give it a go if it ever gets here.

In the meanwhile i can control it via serial and have already integrated it via serial as the wife did not approve of telling her to get up and turn it on/off...

I will keep you guys posted if the part ever gets here and what the verdict is...

-pd
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post #16479 of 16495 Old 04-23-2017, 10:21 PM
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If the price for that part is insane, PM me and I will see what I can do for you.

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post #16480 of 16495 Old 04-29-2017, 03:24 PM
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I recently went through the DLP chip replacement. Also replaced both of the small (noisy) fans. And I also had a problem unhooking power connector mentioned recently. I just took a Dremel and ground off the retaining thingy. It's not going anywhere anyway.

But I do have a problem I haven't solved. The picture is centered up 1.5" (on HL67), and none of the electronic adjustments can adjust it lower.

So I figured I would just raise the rear edge of the chassis a bit, and the picture would come down.

Nope. The opposite ocurred. Made it worse. I don't know, mirrors?

So maybe I can raise the front edge of the chassis? Not sure if that is possible, since just sliding it in is pretty tight at the top.

Anybody have any experience, or knowledge, about this problem?
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post #16481 of 16495 Old 04-30-2017, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by grittree View Post
I recently went through the DLP chip replacement. Also replaced both of the small (noisy) fans. And I also had a problem unhooking power connector mentioned recently. I just took a Dremel and ground off the retaining thingy. It's not going anywhere anyway.

But I do have a problem I haven't solved. The picture is centered up 1.5" (on HL67), and none of the electronic adjustments can adjust it lower.

Anybody have any experience, or knowledge, about this problem?
You must have loosened the three screws that have the plastic plugs over them,
bad mistake!
You now have to loosen them again just enough so that you can slide the whole shield assembly up slightly.
This is a very touchy adjustment! A sixteenth of an inch would probably be way more than you need.
Have fun.

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post #16482 of 16495 Old 04-30-2017, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
You must have loosened the three screws that have the plastic plugs over them,
bad mistake!
You now have to loosen them again just enough so that you can slide the whole shield assembly up slightly.
This is a very touchy adjustment! A sixteenth of an inch would probably be way more than you need.
Have fun.
Hey, thanks so much for replying.

I don't remember any screws under plastic covers. I don't remember removing any covers. Went and looked, and I see three white plastic buttons surrounding the heat sink. Are those what you refer to? Two on the left, one on the lower right.

I did remove the four screws (with springs under) around the heat sink, and the youtube video I followed didn't say anything about how tight to make them. Could that be my problem?

If not, please expand on 'loosening those screws and sliding the shield assembly up'. What is the shield assembly, and which way is up?

Last edited by grittree; 04-30-2017 at 04:30 PM.
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post #16483 of 16495 Old 04-30-2017, 10:50 PM
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Hey, thanks so much for replying.

I don't remember any screws under plastic covers. I don't remember removing any covers. Went and looked, and I see three white plastic buttons surrounding the heat sink. Are those what you refer to? Two on the left, one on the lower right.

I did remove the four screws (with springs under) around the heat sink, and the youtube video I followed didn't say anything about how tight to make them. Could that be my problem?

If not, please expand on 'loosening those screws and sliding the shield assembly up'. What is the shield assembly, and which way is up?
Unless you have somehow got the light engine in there improperly (crooked) if that is possible.
you must have loosened the 3 screws.
The one picture I provided is from the manual it shows the 3 screws with yellow circle around them and says not to remove them.
In that picture it has the shield removed but you have to put something like a thin screw driver or a kitchen knife under that assembly and lift very slightly on both sides.
The other picture shows the whole assembly with the white plugs and the shield on it.

They say alcohol affects memory but I can't remember it ever affecting mine!
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post #16484 of 16495 Old 05-01-2017, 08:19 AM
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You have to bring up the alignment grid from the service menu and then adjust the screws. This sadly, can take some time .

Ideally have someone watching the screen while you do the adjustments.
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post #16485 of 16495 Old 05-01-2017, 01:59 PM
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OK, I think I have enough info for now.

I assume that I can adjust those three screws with the TV on.

I'm just concerned that I did something else wrong, since I never touched those screws.
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post #16486 of 16495 Old 05-02-2017, 12:30 AM
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OK, I think I have enough info for now.

I assume that I can adjust those three screws with the TV on.

I'm just concerned that I did something else wrong, since I never touched those screws.

If you never touched them before, don't touch them now! You probably have something caught behind the chassis, preventing it from aligning correctly. Back track your steps until you find the issue.

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post #16487 of 16495 Old 05-08-2017, 07:47 AM
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Hi,

I've owned the HL67A750A since it came out in 2008. I have enjoyed watching a lot of shows and movies on this tv but the time has come to have that white dot(s) issue. I'm wanted to dive in and replace the chip but I don't have much time to do it and to troubleshoot if anything else is wrong before or after the repair. Instead of throwing it into the dump, I would happily give it to someone who needs it for other parts or who wants to repair it. Please PM me if you are interested. I'm in the Northern VA area. Thanks!
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post #16488 of 16495 Old 05-08-2017, 10:19 PM
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Hi,

I've owned the HL67A750A since it came out in 2008. I have enjoyed watching a lot of shows and movies on this tv but the time has come to have that white dot(s) issue. I'm wanted to dive in and replace the chip but I don't have much time to do it and to troubleshoot if anything else is wrong before or after the repair. Instead of throwing it into the dump, I would happily give it to someone who needs it for other parts or who wants to repair it. Please PM me if you are interested. I'm in the Northern VA area. Thanks!
I will buy it from you $100.00 cash.
I could pick up most anytime.
I live in Herndon Va. but I travel as far as 100 miles for TVs.

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post #16489 of 16495 Old 05-08-2017, 10:53 PM
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Hi,

I've owned the HL67A750A since it came out in 2008. I have enjoyed watching a lot of shows and movies on this tv but the time has come to have that white dot(s) issue. I'm wanted to dive in and replace the chip but I don't have much time to do it and to troubleshoot if anything else is wrong before or after the repair. Instead of throwing it into the dump, I would happily give it to someone who needs it for other parts or who wants to repair it. Please PM me if you are interested. I'm in the Northern VA area. Thanks!

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I will buy it from you $100.00 cash.
I could pick up most anytime.
I live in Herndon Va. but I travel as far as 100 miles for TVs.


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post #16490 of 16495 Old 05-12-2017, 10:35 AM
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Ruh Roh!! It's started turning itself back on ..... ??

Proud and card carrying member of original ownership since 2008 as well of a Sammy HL61A750. Have even pulled out one of the LED guns that died, ordered a used replacement on Ebay and re-installed a year and a half ago myself, thanks to the great help from the kind folks here. Of course my eyes are on the 65" current technology 4K HDR sets for when this bad boy finally goes. The longer I wait the better and cheaper those sets become.

However 2 nights ago it started this new behavior of turning off but then back on again when I have shut it down from either the remote or the blue power button below the screen. What does this mean to me as someone that .... yeah I did do that operation above .... but did not enjoy the process and scared hell out of me. One little wire connection I broke which couldn't be fixed but luckily when the part was inserted back in place contact was made and it's been working OK since then.

What is going on here please from anyone else that has had this problem? I am having to unplug the set now when finished watching.

Thanks much

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post #16491 of 16495 Old 05-22-2017, 07:42 PM
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Hello everyone, 61a750 owner here and watching tonight, the white dot popped up. Turned it off and it was gone. Is this a sign?

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post #16492 of 16495 Old 05-22-2017, 07:48 PM
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I should add this didn't look like a big spot, it looked like a burned out led spec

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post #16493 of 16495 Old 05-23-2017, 05:51 PM
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I should add this didn't look like a big spot, it looked like a burned out led spec

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That's The way mine started, with a single dot.
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post #16494 of 16495 Old 05-23-2017, 05:52 PM
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That's The way mine started, with a single dot.
It didn't show up at all today. Fingers crossed.

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post #16495 of 16495 Old Today, 07:13 PM
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It may go away for a while. Not sure how long. Mine hasn't come back in 5 weeks now. It stayed about a month, disappeared around the middle of April and I thought it will come back soon with company. So far, it has been good. Will update if something happens.
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