2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 550 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16471 of 16477 Old 04-21-2017, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pdermody View Post
Well I managed to replace the chip, all three fans, cleaned things up with a quick visual inspection of the caps. Turned it on, went through service menu and test patterns and all was well, everyone happy...

Went to turn off the tv later and now the thing doesn't want to respond to the remote... Side buttons work, front power button works, just IR is dead both with factory remote (which I just used in the service menu with the patterns) and my daily Harmony remote for the family... (yes I even swapped batteries...)

Unplugged it for a bit (a few times) and sometimes it will respond to IR the first time/first signal only, after that its kaput and I have to hit the physical buttons... Not sure what I did wrong, and I'm pretty sure that I didn't do anything wrong... Guess its just my luck as I was debating whether or not to throw money at the set and obviously finally caved only to be greeted with this new problem...

-pd
Sorry to hear that you are having this problem after all the hard work and the money you spent on the DLP replacement chip. I hope you can somehow solve the problem. Good luck.
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post #16472 of 16477 Old 04-21-2017, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
Can you do a hard reset? I'm not familiar with the procedure for this model, but it usually involves pressing two buttons on the TV at the same time.
Quickly searching through this thread and service manual, I think the only hard reset is just unplugging it for a bit. I did do that a few times and for a brief moment it does seem to work for at least the first command (power on in my case, actually I did manage to get back into the service menu at one point after I tore down the entire set to have a look at the IR board) but after about 15-20 minutes it quit accepting commands again.

-pd
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post #16473 of 16477 Old 04-21-2017, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdermody View Post
... Went to turn off the tv later and now the thing doesn't want to respond to the remote... Side buttons work, front power button works, just IR is dead both with factory remote (which I just used in the service menu with the patterns) and my daily Harmony remote for the family... (yes I even swapped batteries...)

Unplugged it for a bit (a few times) and sometimes it will respond to IR the first time/first signal only, after that its kaput and I have to hit the physical buttons... Not sure what I did wrong, and I'm pretty sure that I didn't do anything wrong... Guess its just my luck as I was debating whether or not to throw money at the set and obviously finally caved only to be greeted with this new problem...
I looked in the service manual, and I see that there is a "RMC" board (Samsung BP96-02052A) which is available for $36. This is the IR interface board which contains the power button switch, the leds that light up the power button, and the IR sensor chip. This board connects to the indicator board ( along with the keypad board ), which then connects to the main board. Since all these other items seem to be functional, it suggests that the IR sensor chip has become flakey, which is a really freaky rare issue.

It would be a real hassle to replace the RMC board, since it is inside the screen frame, but I can not offer any other suggestion.

Edit: But I see that you have examined that RMC board, so the replacement may not be so hard.
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Last edited by cosmicvoid; 04-21-2017 at 08:33 PM.
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post #16474 of 16477 Old 04-21-2017, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vishwa Somayaji View Post
Sorry to hear that you are having this problem after all the hard work and the money you spent on the DLP replacement chip. I hope you can somehow solve the problem. Good luck.
I'm up and running again and the wife is happy. Originally after giving up on IR I thought I would just go CEC and hooked up a raspberry pi and it seemed to work - except for power off for whatever reason... I guess Samsung's half ass CEC implementation? Not sure.

After getting bummed out about CEC not working properly, I decided to explore the serial/exlink communication port and hooked up the pi to that to see if it would work and it did. So now as of a few minutes ago I have everything setup the way I want with the remote and the wife is happy.

So I have kicked the proverbial can down the road (assuming nothing else breaks... looking for wood). I will say swapping out the chip and cleaning off the fine layer of dust on the lens did seem to make things brighter/pop again along with perceived contrast increase - so I think I made the right decision for now...

I may explore replacing the IR board later (if I can find one..) , along with the caps as a preventative measure - unless I find a 70"+ set that I am happy with (OLED is close but that is 65 - at least in my price range... and the uniformity issues that I can't seem to unsee once I have found them...)

-pd
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post #16475 of 16477 Old 04-21-2017, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicvoid View Post
I looked in the service manual, and I see that there is a "RMC" board (Samsung BP96-02052A) which is available for $36. This is the IR interface board which contains the power button switch, the leds that light up the power button, and the IR sensor chip. This board connects to the indicator board ( along with the keypad board ), which then connects to the main board. Since all these other items seem to be functional, it suggests that the IR sensor chip has become flakey, which is a really freaky rare issue.

It would be a real hassle to replace the RMC board, since it is inside the screen frame, but I can not offer any other suggestion.
Man - you have a different service manual than what is readily out there? That is a nice picture.

Yeah I looked around for the board, seems to be special order everywhere and the sites that can order seem to have really bad reviews.

As for getting to the RMC board, been there, done that. Out of frustration I literally tore the entire set down and inspected the board and cables, etc. So now that I have done it once, I can get back in there pretty fast (also now that I know there are two more screws inside the bottom that you need to remove that the manual I have does not seem to mention...).

The power button does work, and the side buttons do work so I am assuming it is just purely the IR portion of the RMC. So maybe it would be worth it to replace it if I decide to go back in and replace all the caps...

-pd
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post #16476 of 16477 Old Yesterday, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdermody View Post
... The power button does work, and the side buttons do work so I am assuming it is just purely the IR portion of the RMC. So maybe it would be worth it to replace it if I decide to go back in and replace all the caps...
Now that you have a work-around in place, there is no pressure to find a board quickly. You could just order from samsungparts.com and wait 6 weeks.

It's nice to see that a set owner is willing to tear down and dig into the set to get at the root of a problem. I, too, would do that if I actually needed to, but my main HL67A750 has been trouble free for 8.5 years , and I got a non-working set for cheap some years ago that I repaired to have a spare. I'm not itching to "upgrade" to a shoddily made 4K set.

It would be interesting to find out if the IR sensor is a common part that can be replaced or substituted. I can't tell from the photo in the manual, and I don't feel like opening up the set to see.
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post #16477 of 16477 Old Yesterday, 11:53 PM
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The IR sensor is actually built into the Power Button assembly.
I have never heard of one going bad but the thing to do would be to get the whole
Assembly like attached pic and plug into your mainboard and see if it works before you
tear the front off your case.
If you are lazy you could just get the assembly and let it hang out of case until you
get in the mood (if ever) to tear the front off,
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Last edited by stanman2242; Today at 12:06 AM. Reason: add picture
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