2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 551 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16501 of 16519 Old 05-31-2017, 09:00 PM
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i get some snaps and pops every now and then... doesn't seem to correspond to anything happening
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post #16502 of 16519 Old 06-15-2017, 11:40 AM
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My wife called me at the office a few minutes ago. She said when she turned on the TV, there was a popping sound (scared our cat), and now there's no blue color on the picture. I checked ShopJimmy, and they are out of stock on blue LEDs. What are my options, other than a new TV? I was hoping to hold onto this one until OLED prices came down.
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post #16503 of 16519 Old 06-15-2017, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Spruce Goose View Post
... and they are out of stock on blue LEDs. What are my options...
There are plenty available on ebay, and elsewhere, both new and used.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=bp07-00031a
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post #16504 of 16519 Old 06-15-2017, 03:37 PM
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There are plenty available on ebay, and elsewhere, both new and used.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=bp07-00031a
Thanks very much!
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post #16505 of 16519 Old 06-16-2017, 06:32 PM
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paging stanman2242, (i cannot pm without 5 posts
the sub smps board on my hl61a750 just recently went out and it looks like for awhile you were selling refurbished parts. im wondering if you have any others available i would mind an BP96-01726A either as i should just be able to modiy my current cable to the led board.

please pm me.
Thanks in advance.

Chris
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post #16506 of 16519 Old 06-19-2017, 09:02 AM
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Thanks to this forum I've had a HL67A750 for about six years and it's been a great TV. I started to have the issue with the white spots a couple of years ago and I had the chip replaced - no more issues. A few weeks ago it started to experience a new issue. Shortly after turning on the picture would black out (sound remained) and after several seconds it would turn itself off/back on and then all worked fine. Happened a few times. I would assume it's a component that is failing; Fry's had a good price on an LG so I decided to replace it.

If anyone is near Silicon Valley (south bay) and is interested in the TV please message me. I'd like to get $200 for it.

Thanks,
Bruce
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post #16507 of 16519 Old 06-19-2017, 09:16 AM
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I just did the white dot fix on my tv... thanks to the site, shopjimmy and youtube had a chance to clean some dust off the internal lenses and i think that also helped my image. thought the tv was brighter afterwards...but think i just changed one of the cinema or color temp settings... so have to go back through the image calibration stuff.
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post #16508 of 16519 Old 06-19-2017, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BruceWG View Post
Thanks to this forum I've had a HL67A750 for about six years and it's been a great TV. I started to have the issue with the white spots a couple of years ago and I had the chip replaced - no more issues. A few weeks ago it started to experience a new issue. Shortly after turning on the picture would black out (sound remained) and after several seconds it would turn itself off/back on and then all worked fine. Happened a few times. I would assume it's a component that is failing; Fry's had a good price on an LG so I decided to replace it.

If anyone is near Silicon Valley (south bay) and is interested in the TV please message me. I'd like to get $200 for it.

Thanks,
Bruce

It's possible to get a black screen from a missed HDMI handshake.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
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post #16509 of 16519 Old 06-19-2017, 12:07 PM
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It's possible to get a black screen from a missed HDMI handshake.
Yes, understood. As this behavior is new and is accompanied by the power off/back on I believe it's most likely due to a component that would need to be replaced. In any case I've enjoyed the TV and can't complain.

Bruce
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post #16510 of 16519 Old 06-19-2017, 10:34 PM
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I've had my HL61A750 since 2008 - it's been a great TV. I got the white dots a few months ago, and replaced the DMD chip, and all was fine again. Last week the blue LED died, and I decided I'd rather finally get the OLED of my dreams than crack open the old TV again. The new TV arrives Friday. If anyone in the Hayward, CA, area wants the old TV, for free, send me a PM. Otherwise it's off to the e-waste dropoff.

Bob
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post #16511 of 16519 Old 06-20-2017, 11:22 AM
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My HL67A750 seems to be getting dimmer. I replaced the DLP chip couple of years ago. I not sure I want to give up on it yet. Would it be the LED's needing to be replaced?
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post #16512 of 16519 Old 06-20-2017, 04:29 PM
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My HL67A750 seems to be getting dimmer ... Would it be the LED's needing to be replaced?
I wouldn't think so, unless you have them set to the highest value already. Has the set been opened and the dust cleaned off the heat sinks, the lens, the mirror, and the DLP chip?
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post #16513 of 16519 Old 06-22-2017, 02:27 AM
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My HL67A750 seems to be getting dimmer. I replaced the DLP chip couple of years ago. I not sure I want to give up on it yet. Would it be the LED's needing to be replaced?
It was set on Dynamic. I set it to Standard and put the LED to max. Looks good now. Maybe another year or two. Sure been a good set.
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post #16514 of 16519 Old 06-23-2017, 12:22 PM
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Several things are starting to be odd, maybe more than I can reasonably have fixed since unlike you all, I have to have a repair person come.

Maybe 80% of the time, when I turn on the TV, it's a wild color. Turn it off, back on, and 100% of the time the color is normal. Would this be a function of HDMI on TV going bad, or a cable?

TV takes a long time to come on. Sometimes I have to turn it off then back on. Yesterday the sound went really wonky and could not power the TV off (this has happened a couple times before). Unplugged TV, plugged back in, and all was well.

Am wondering if these symptoms are serious or simple, so to be prepared if a new TV is in my immediate future.
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post #16515 of 16519 Old 06-23-2017, 09:31 PM
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... Maybe 80% of the time, when I turn on the TV, it's a wild color. Turn it off, back on, and 100% of the time the color is normal. Would this be a function of HDMI on TV going bad, or a cable?
I have experienced this occasionally, the "wild" color is always either green or magenta. It seems to be a HDMI handshake issue. Changing to a different input and back would always clear the problem. Maybe you should turn on the TV last.
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TV takes a long time to come on. Sometimes I have to turn it off then back on. Yesterday the sound went really wonky and could not power the TV off (this has happened a couple times before). Unplugged TV, plugged back in, and all was well.
My first guess is that one (or both) of the power supplies is going bad, usually the electrolytic capacitors fail after many years of use. You can usually find them (the boards) on ebay, or maybe your local repair shop can replace the caps for a reasonable charge.
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post #16516 of 16519 Old Yesterday, 11:27 AM
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My first guess is that one (or both) of the power supplies is going bad, usually the electrolytic capacitors fail after many years of use. You can usually find them (the boards) on ebay, or maybe your local repair shop can replace the caps for a reasonable charge.
Forgive my total ignorance with these questions:

1. Are power supplies and caps separate issues?
2. There is a local electronics shop where I can have the caps replaced. Is there just one board (power?) to be removed and is it easily accessible? (is it something even an idiot like me could do?)
3. Would it be easier to just get a board on eBay, and what exactly would I be searching for?

Would like to be proactive so I can time the repair.

Thanks!
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post #16517 of 16519 Old Yesterday, 12:50 PM
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1. Are power supplies and caps separate issues?
No. Each power board has a number of large-ish vertically mounted cylindrical caps. Some times when they go bad, the top end bulges, which is easy to notice; other times, there is no visible symptom.
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2. There is a local electronics shop where I can have the caps replaced. Is there just one board (power?) to be removed and is it easily accessible?
No. There are two power boards; the main-smps (switch-mode-power-supply), p/n BP44-01001A, which is located above the main board's metal cage (on the left side, looking from the rear), just to the right of the input jack panel; the other is the sub-smps (p/n BP96-01726B), which is located on the right side, above the LED assy, and has a slanted edge.

First thing is to remove the 10 screws holding the lower back cover, then everything is accessable. These boards are not difficult to replace, noting that sometimes the wiring connectors can be a bitch to disconnect without tools. While you're at it, vacuum out the dust.
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3. Would it be easier to just get a board on eBay, and what exactly would I be searching for?
The board part numbers are mentioned above. At any given time, they may (or may not) be available on ebay or other TV parts sites. Ask your local shop whether they can test boards for this model TV, and what it would cost to replace the electrolytic caps. I typically replace the caps myself in a case like this, but I have 30+ years experience in desoldering/soldering and electronics.
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post #16518 of 16519 Old Yesterday, 09:24 PM
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These boards are not difficult to replace, noting that sometimes the wiring connectors can be a bitch to disconnect without tools. While you're at it, vacuum out the dust.
What tool/s might I need if I decide to d/c the boards myself and take them in? If I wait for the set to stop working, will it be easy to dx which board is the issue, or is it good to go ahead and check for bulging/compromised caps on both?

Thanks for the dust reminder! I did do that when I replaced the DMD chip (maybe I got that wrong - the white-dots chip!) and when I replaced a bad fan.
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post #16519 of 16519 Old Today, 01:32 AM
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What tool/s might I need if I decide to d/c the boards myself and take them in?
To start with, a philips screwdriver. It's been quite a while since I've done any board swapping/repair, but typically the connectors are rectangular white nylon with a latching tab on the side. Squeezing the tab to release the latch is the hard part; a small pair of pliers or channel-locks is good for this task, and will give you a better grip to wiggle the connector off the header pins on the board. Keep track of which cable goes where.
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If I wait for the set to stop working, will it be easy to dx which board is the issue, or is it good to go ahead and check for bulging/compromised caps on both?
You can visually check for bulging caps, thats a fairly reliable indicator of a failing/failed cap. If any caps are bulging, I'd have them all replaced, as the rest will probably be bad too, or will fail soon.

To determine which board is bad (and its possible that both have bad caps) you'd need to check the respective outputs with a voltmeter. This procedure has been discussed in this thread a number of times, probably in the last 100~200 pages, I dont remember exactly when. This would have to be done from a "cold start", as once the set has powered up properly, the caps will temporarly "heal" sometimes, and this would give you misleading readings.
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