2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - Page 552 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16531 of 16557 Old 08-10-2017, 05:25 PM
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I think the plan is to buy something new like a Sony X930E and fix the DLP as I have spare time...can't have to many TV's right? We'll find out just how handy or unhandy I am. The part is something like $190. That an an hour of time maybe longer. Sounds easy, ha ha. Thanks everyone for the encouragement. Enjoy!

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post #16532 of 16557 Old 08-13-2017, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sfracek View Post
In my case, I started out with one white dot and over a short time they just multiplied like rabbits Luckily I had an extended warranty and I got it fixed and cleaned just a month before the warranty ran out. I think the tech said it would have cost about $500 or more for the repairs. I didn't have to pay a penny. The tech did a great job and the picture quality was like new. It has been running great since then and it has been about two years.
Ditto on the 1st part. The # of stuck white pixels really started growing day by day and got pretty bad. I pretty quickly ordered a replacement DLP chip (DMD) from ShopJimmy which cost me $200, after some discount I had. Funny enough, I placed that order on 8/18/15. I installed it within a week of arrival.

My HL61A750 is still working fine and none of the have LEDs have failed, yet. I do have a large USB Thermaltake fan pulling air thru the casing near the exhaust of hot air from the LEDs.

Picture quality hasn't gotten any worse than before original DMD started developing stuck white pixels so the set still looks great.
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post #16533 of 16557 Old 08-14-2017, 09:48 AM
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Mine started doing the same thing about 2 years ago now. i bought a replacement chip and replaced it my self. It took about 1/2 hour. The only other problem I have have told my wife if it goes out Im going to buy a 80" but the thing wont die and the picture still gets people saying wow what a great picture. The chip cost about $130.
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post #16534 of 16557 Old 08-21-2017, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cwerdna View Post

My HL61A750 is still working fine and none of the have LEDs have failed, yet. I do have a large USB Thermaltake fan pulling air thru the casing near the exhaust of hot air from the LEDs.
Ditto on the USB fan. Found that tip some years back. My HL67A750 has been working fine since October 2008. I also make it a point to take out the chassis and clean it every 6 months. I want this thing to last as long as possible! Been a super TV! Haven't seen any reason to upgrade or even go to 4K with this set.

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post #16535 of 16557 Old 09-07-2017, 09:37 AM
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Turning this Sammy loose finally and Experimenting with Color

Aside from one of the LEDs going out over a year ago (blue I think it was) and replacing it myself with the help of the great support in this thread, my 61" set has been trouble free. LOL aside from a couple idiosyncrasies of late that seem now to have magically corrected themselves. Switching inputs with the remote from HDMI 1 with my DirecTV tuner to HDMI 2 for my Roku got to be a joke at times with it taking like 4 or 5 times with it reverting instead to HDMI 1. Even with hitting the home button on the Roku first. It would blink 2 but still do 1 after choosing 2. Lately .... just like buttuh ..... I hit the Roku home button and the TV has been going to HDMI 2 automatically without me even having to use the input button on the remote. And for about a month recently it got weird in that I would power the set off and it would immediately turn itself back on, necessitating me having to physically unplug it after powering down. Now that has corrected itself on its own also finally.

The prices have come down on what I will believe will be my 65" replacement TV, a Vizio P65-E1, to where it will cost me no more than I paid over 9 years ago for the HL61A750. So instead of continuing to baby it with less brightness than ideally I'd like at Medium setting thinking less heat would help extend the life, I'm getting wild and crazy and now running it on High for a much nicer pop. But I am also no holds barred experimenting with some settings I never used before, from the amazing amount of user setting this set provided ..... with Dynamic Contrast and Wide Color Gamut. Have only been watching on network and streaming for a couple of nights and have to say with these ballpark settings below I am really digging the pop and color and overall picture now thinking it is the best it's ever been for this never pro calibrated set. Of course the better the source the better they look. Have not tried with Bluray yet. Just started experimenting a few days ago and still a work in progress.

For bleeps and giggles in case anyone wants to try them out, here they are. Your mileage of course may vary. Using dynamic contrast and wide color and a couple of the other settings that we were told to always leave off requires really working with some of the other settings and / or raising them or lowering them to compensate, and these have asterisks on them. Guessing Max brightness could be tried too but I don't want this great old set to say WTF are you doing to me and blow up out of spite.

MODE Movie
COLOR TONE Warm 1
*CONTRAST 34
*BRIGHTNESS 46
SHARPNESS 42
*COLOR 54
*TINT G48/R52
BLACK ADJUST Low
DYNAMIC CONTRAST Low
LED High
GAMMA +3
*WHITE BALANCE -3
*FLESH TONE -4
EDGE ENHANCEMENT Off
xvYCC Off
SIZE Just Scan
*DNR Low
HDMI BLACK LEVEL Low
FILM MODE Auto
COLOR GAMUT Wide

*** Darbee .... per source on Network and per taste. I think Darbee processing on these sets is awesome and adds so much. The wobulation created HD really seems to accept higher levels of that processing exceptionally well with good sources. You can flip with the little remote the processing on and off of course and just see the added detail and dimensionality wrap itself around objects and faces when on.

Anyway that's what I am playing with now for however long the Sammy continues to last. I do have a dedicated theater with a near golden sample JVC RS500, with other prior JVCs over these same years and never felt like throwing rocks at this set in my front room when coming in to watch it. So I do have a good point of reference.

I have good purples on my Lakers uniforms which are kind of tough and am happy with the flesh tones and pretty ecstatic about the wider range of color and deeper colors I am seeing. Same with black level and shadow detail.... nothing has been sacrificed there.

Last edited by RonF; 09-07-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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post #16536 of 16557 Old 09-07-2017, 11:21 AM
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I got into the set once as mentioned a couple years ago to replace the blue LED. Not really wanting to open it up again unless there is some relatively easy recommended way with photos on how to get at the surface of the LEDs to "clean" them off and what to use. Tried a search but nothing so far. If photos and the actual process involved are available from anyone here would much appreciate and I might try doing it depending on degree of difficulty. If others are reporting great brightness pop, which makes sense as it used to give on my old CRT rear projection set, and if nothing is required as far as pulling any actual components out of the way or disconnecting wires.

When I replaced my blue LED there was one tiny wire I broke the connector on and can't replace it. But got lucky with a shop in town when I took the whole module down to him (whatever it was) and he was able to just push the bare end into the connector hole where it was supposed to have the actual connector and then put a tiny spot of silicone or something up top to keep the wire in place. We didn't even know if it would work. But after everything was screwed back in it did. So that's the reason I am asking about what kind of a tool, feather duster or whatever can be used to clean the guns and how difficult is it to get at them. Photos?

Thanks as always in here. Amazing thread all these years!

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post #16537 of 16557 Old 09-08-2017, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post
... how to get at the surface of the LEDs to "clean" them off ...
In my experience with this set, the only way to access the LED chips is to remove them from the optical block, which might give more trouble than it would solve. The optical block is fairly well sealed when the LEDs are mounted, so I doubt any significant amount of dust would land on them. The chip area is so small, and the LEDs are sooo bright, that it would take a lot of dust to make a noticeable loss of output. Just my 2¢.

If you did go that route, use alcohol and a Q-tip.
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post #16538 of 16557 Old 09-09-2017, 12:10 AM
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Thanks!
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post #16539 of 16557 Old 09-10-2017, 05:02 AM
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Woke up this morning to color problems with my HL61A750. I replaced the chip about a year ago to solve the white dots problem and all has been great since. Everything now has a yellow tint and greens and reds seem to be more intense. I assume it could be a light source or a board and would like to specifically identify the issue so I can decide about fix or replace. Is there a troubleshooting procedure to accurately identify the source of the problem. Thanks for any suggestions.
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post #16540 of 16557 Old 09-10-2017, 05:56 AM
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Just to add, the color bands on the simulated TV on the Menu appear to be white, white, green, red, black. Seems the blue light source failed but would still appreciate any suggestions about how to confirm it is the color light source and not an issue with a board.
If it is the light source, is there consensus on replacing all 3 sources vs. just the blue? Do the light sources have a tendency to fail about the same time (TV is 9 years old). I hope to keep my Samsung for 2 more years before upgrading. Thanks again.

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post #16541 of 16557 Old 09-10-2017, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by EdsGro View Post
Just to add, the color bands on the simulated TV on the Menu appear to be white, white, green, red, black. Seems the blue light source failed but would still appreciate any suggestions about how to confirm it is the color light source and not an issue with a board.
If it is the light source, is there consensus on replacing all 3 sources vs. just the blue? Do the light sources have a tendency to fail about the same time (TV is 9 years old). I hope to keep my Samsung for 2 more years before upgrading. Thanks again.
Definitely sounds like the blue LED. I said over a year ago above mine went out and was able to replace myself with help here, but was actually 2 years ago. Was told at the time just to do the one that was out and seems like very good advice.

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post #16542 of 16557 Old 09-10-2017, 09:16 AM
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Definitely sounds like the blue LED. I said over a year ago above mine went out and was able to replace myself with help here, but was actually 2 years ago. Was told at the time just to do the one that was out and seems like very good advice.

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Following up on my settings above I watched parts of first bluray with them and remain beyond happy. It was the Cave of Monsters chapter in Moana with all its rich pallette of crazy colors and brilliant highlights. Couldn't believe what I was seeing out of my 9 year old DLP set. It looked very much as if I had been watching the images with my RS500 on the 2.8 HP screen and was not even running Darbee which is only on my DirecTV feed. Colors saturated and amazing with good animation flesh tones, highlights brilliant and not blown, great blacks (in juxtaposition) and great shadow detail. No color wheel. Effing shame this set and tech had only one generation of production.

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post #16543 of 16557 Old 09-11-2017, 07:02 AM
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Following up on my settings above I watched parts of first bluray with them and remain beyond happy. It was the Cave of Monsters chapter in Moana with all its rich pallette of crazy colors and brilliant highlights. Couldn't believe what I was seeing out of my 9 year old DLP set. It looked very much as if I had been watching the images with my RS500 on the 2.8 HP screen and was not even running Darbee which is only on my DirecTV feed. Colors saturated and amazing with good animation flesh tones, highlights brilliant and not blown, great blacks (in juxtaposition) and great shadow detail. No color wheel. Effing shame this set and tech had only one generation of production.
I agree. This TV set has just been amazing. I have the 67 inch model and couldn't love it more. Haven't had a bit of trouble since I bought it in 2008. But, I do baby it, clean it out every 6 months , and run a USB fan . Still marvel at the picture. I have yet to figure out any replacement for this set, as all manufacturers now dropped 3D in their new models. I'm really not interested in 4k at all, as at my age I don't think I could see the difference. I hope to keep this that going for as long as possible.

It is a shame that they didn't manufacturer for another generation. IMO, this was really a brilliant piece of technology! It just didn't have the coolness factor of being able to hang it on the wall. Of course, you could, but you would need one hell of a bracket or a pretty sturdy Shelf! That never made any difference to me.


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post #16544 of 16557 Old 09-11-2017, 12:49 PM
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Definitely sounds like the blue LED. I said over a year ago above mine went out and was able to replace myself with help here, but was actually 2 years ago. Was told at the time just to do the one that was out and seems like very good advice.
Yeah, replaced the blue LED myself a few years back, only takes about 20 minutes or so, very easy to do.

Had the white dots issue pop up a few months ago, but ended up buying a new display and giving the Sammy to my step-daughter.

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post #16545 of 16557 Old 09-17-2017, 08:04 AM
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I was able to buy a used blue LED off eBay for $25. A little bit of a risk but worth it in my opinion given the cost of new LEDs and the relatively short time before an upgrade. Pulled the light unit, replaced the blue LED as well as two fans, and returned the unit to regain the great display. It's amazing that this TV has a great picture and is relatively simple to repair. Very happy with my Samsung LED DLP.
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post #16546 of 16557 Old 09-17-2017, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by EdsGro View Post
I was able to buy a used blue LED off eBay for $25. A little bit of a risk but worth it in my opinion given the cost of new LEDs and the relatively short time before an upgrade. Pulled the light unit, replaced the blue LED as well as two fans, and returned the unit to regain the great display. It's amazing that this TV has a great picture and is relatively simple to repair. Very happy with my Samsung LED DLP.
Great to hear another success story. My 61A750 continues to purr along after all these years. Only had to fix the "white dot" problem a couple of years ago. Other than an occasional "dusting" a couple times a year, it has been rock solid and trouble-free. Every time I get the urge to buy something "new" to replace it; I turn it on and sit back and marvel at just how good it still looks. Anyway, I have a full compliment of ready-to-go spare parts that will support this thing well into the next century... so I HAVE to keep it !
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post #16547 of 16557 Old 09-19-2017, 10:45 PM
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I have been looking at new TV's lately and realized there are just too many tradeoffs with current tech.

The real reason I've been considering it is because I've notice that if a person is wearing clothes with a tight parallel pattern in the fabric, if the fabric is completely vertical (and lined up perfectly square with the DLP chip, the fabric sort of "flashes" on the screen.

I replaced the DLP chip last year because of dead mirrors, but other than that, it has been completely trouble free.

Blacks are better than LCD TV's, slightly less than Plasma and OLED, brightness is great, no reflections from the screen is great. Motion is handled very well, though I do notice what I think is judder, particularly when the camera pans across a large background..the background will seem to jerk slightly, and in the Dreamworks movie intros with the clouds moving.

Any ideas as to that "flashing"?

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post #16548 of 16557 Old 09-20-2017, 11:50 AM
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When I used the display, I saw the same flashes as well. Usually during dark scenes with light shining through something either vertically or horizontally (think of a scene where someone is in a basement, and light is shining through the stairs).

Once I saw it, I always noticed it. Wasn't a deal breaker, just something with DLPs I guess. Also, in a dark scene with a little light (like from a street light), if I turned my head quickly away from the screen, I could see sorta like rainbow colors.
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post #16549 of 16557 Old 09-20-2017, 03:21 PM
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... Any ideas as to that "flashing"?
It's called "aliasing". It happens a lot when a repetitive pattern in the picture content aligns with the scanning or pixel matrix, creating "interference patterns" (optical terminology). It happens on DLP and LCD and any other scanned display type.
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post #16550 of 16557 Old 09-20-2017, 04:55 PM
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Thanks! Knowing what it was called let me know that too much sharpness can exacerbate it. I reduced sharpness, will see what the result is.

I also notice in dark scenes where there is a black/grey variation that I'll get banding that makes it look like there's only 6 shades of black available. It's not vertical/horizontal, it follows the contour of the scene. Luckily these scenes aren't found often.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpitt916 View Post
... Any ideas as to that "flashing"?
It's called "aliasing". It happens a lot when a repetitive pattern in the picture content aligns with the scanning or pixel matrix, creating "interference patterns" (optical terminology). It happens on DLP and LCD and any other scanned display type.

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post #16551 of 16557 Old 09-25-2017, 10:03 PM
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Well I'll be.....

My bedroom LCD tv does the same thing...which means it's the SOURCE!

For example, in Arrival, at 1:45:30, the greys/blacks get all wonky. Here's where it gets interesting.

Bedroom, streaming on Xbox 360 from Vudu.
Livingroom, streaming on Xbox One from Vudu (and before that, Cinemanow, but it looks like Cinemanow is out for UV movies)

BUT, when I play the Blu-ray in the bedroom on a Blu-ray player, or in the living room on the Xbox One or stand-alone Blu-ray player, the problem disappears.

So it looks like streaming movies has made me think my TV is screwed up. Figures.

Samsung is still good to go after all! Whohoo!!
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post #16552 of 16557 Old 09-30-2017, 12:24 AM
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Who's tried the Wide Color Gamut?

Let's see hands out there? As I detailed above with these settings below I am extremely happy with the way the picture looks. A few settings engaged that undoubtedly common practice was to ignore. These sets were ahead of their time. The flesh tones, the richer color. Trust me if you have never tried it that you ought to give it a shot while your fab Sammy LED DLP is still working. Just copy your current settings and you can always go back. Check these out and see if you like them perhaps more than what you have now, unless you're sitting with an excellent calibration by instrument. The wide color gamut ROCKS.

Using dynamic contrast and wide color and a couple of the other settings that we were told to always leave off requires really working with some of the other settings and / or raising them or lowering them to compensate, and these have asterisks on them. Mine is the 61" set.

MODE Movie
COLOR TONE Warm 1
*CONTRAST 34
*BRIGHTNESS 46
SHARPNESS 42
*COLOR 54
*TINT G48/R52
BLACK ADJUST Low
DYNAMIC CONTRAST Low
LED High
GAMMA +3
*WHITE BALANCE -3
*FLESH TONE -4
EDGE ENHANCEMENT Off
xvYCC Off
SIZE Just Scan
*DNR Low
HDMI BLACK LEVEL Low
FILM MODE Auto
COLOR GAMUT Wide

*** Darbee .... per source on Network and per taste. I think Darbee processing on these sets is awesome and adds so much. The wobulation created HD really seems to accept higher levels of that processing exceptionally well with good sources. You can flip with the little remote the processing on and off of course and just see the added detail and dimensionality wrap itself around objects and faces when on.

Last edited by RonF; 09-30-2017 at 12:28 AM.
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post #16553 of 16557 Old 10-07-2017, 12:52 PM
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I have a new problem. I think others may have had this issue so asking to see how to fix it. I replaced the DLP chip like 2 years ago maybe.

Now sometimes when I first turn the tv on, it is very low brightness either blueish tint or redish tint. If I wait about 2 minutes, turn the set off then back on. it looks great again. Any ideas how to fix this? And is it simple and not too costly? Maybe some kind of LED light on the way out or simiiar?
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post #16554 of 16557 Old 10-07-2017, 06:32 PM
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... either blueish tint or redish tint...
I have seen symptoms like this once in a great while, except the colors I see are green or magenta. If I change to a different input and change back, the problem disappears. Seems to me like its a HDMI handshake issue, or possibly an intermittent cable.

I've learned that short HDMI cables can also cause problems, so I don't use any cables shorter than 6 feet.
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post #16555 of 16557 Old 10-09-2017, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by rmscott_75077 View Post
I have a new problem. I think others may have had this issue so asking to see how to fix it. I replaced the DLP chip like 2 years ago maybe.

Now sometimes when I first turn the tv on, it is very low brightness either blueish tint or redish tint. If I wait about 2 minutes, turn the set off then back on. it looks great again. Any ideas how to fix this? And is it simple and not too costly? Maybe some kind of LED light on the way out or simiiar?
In addition to the suggestions already given, I would also check power supply output voltages especially if you have not previously done repair or upgrade work (inspected/replaced caps) in this area.
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post #16556 of 16557 Old 10-12-2017, 03:40 PM
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I switched HDMI cables with my DVD player and so far so good on the dim weird tint when first starting the TV.

Another question advice sought. So 2 nights ago I noticed a loud noise coming out of the back of the TV, kind of a weird humming / airplane propellor noise. I used to build my own computers and it sounded like a computer fan when the bearings start to go. I did a little bit of research and found another thread here a few years ago about fans going out. So since I know how to take this thing apart after replacing the DLP chip, I decided to open up the back and have a look. It was hard to tell for sure, so I unplugged fan 1, still noise, unplugged fan 2 still noise. then finally 3 and no noise. So it's the small one in the back. So I pulled the whole tray out. Pulled the sticker, put some 3 in 1 oil inside on the bearings and put the sticker back on. I can not hear the noise any more.

So my basic questions are 1). Should I go ahead and order a new fan and 2). Does anyone know if there is an exact fit? The one I found on the internet only has a 6" wire. It's going to be longer to make it that one, maybe 12". I could splice it, but would prefer just to have the exact part for the back. I'm hoping I'm not taking it apart again.
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post #16557 of 16557 Old 10-13-2017, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmscott_75077 View Post
... then finally 3 and no noise. So it's the small one in the back....
The Samsung service manual is not specific (that I could tell in a quick look) which part number is which fan number. The two fan types are:
BP31-00025B (quan 2)
BP31-00032A (quan 1)
You can get them at samsungparts.com and elsewhere. Can't be more helpful than that.
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