Originally Posted by Nullman
If I understand what you did with the AVCHD disc you set your brightness so that you could discern the flashing gray bars up to the point of reference black (16). You see 16 as black and everything lower than it as black. For white, you did the same thing - tried to get it so that 235 and everything above it was white. To do this you had to max the contrast at 100 and even then you may still see some extremely light gray lines flash, maybe up to 238 or so. At least that's what I see on my TV.
If that is what you did I'm not sure I understand your use of the word crushing for the whites. I was under the impression that crushing meant you were losing detail. I don't see how you lose detail by having reference white less than the maximum whiteness your TV can display (the background of that test pattern). It'd would be the equivalent of turning the brightness up on the TV and having your black level very dark gray. At that point you wouldn't be losing detail, just contrast and darker blacks. On the other hand, if you have your brightness too low you start losing detail and clipping very dark grays as they would appear black.
I hope that made some sense. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding something. To sum it up I don't see how having your brightness at 80 would be crushing whites. I don't think it's possible to crush whites on this TV because even with contrast set to 100 the reference white is still lower than the brightest white the TV can display.
I happen to be using the opposite settings from you for HDMI Black Level on the TV and Full RGB on the PS3 (Dashboard and games only). I came to use Full RGB after visiting this page
and using their test image to verify the TV supported Full RGB. I felt the combination of Full RGB and HDMI Black level set to Normal looked better and my contrast and brightness settings were still accurate when viewing test patterns on AVCHD and DVE (Blu-ray and DVD playback).
I'd like to try your settings for the display/PS3 combination, but I don't see any listed with 100 for contrast, just your settings for Cable TV (95) and Movies (85).
Yes, that is basically what I did. Don't get too caught up on my use of terminology of crushing whites, I wasn't trying to be technically correct, just descriptive. I set my brightness to the point where bars below 16 disappear into the background, (you may want to go one click higher than this for personal preference). For whites, it is true (and really preferable) that you will see bars above 235. With my contrast maxed, I forget exactly, but I see several bars above 235. Clouds and stuff look great, no clipping, lots of detail.
As far as the PS3 settings go, I am 99.5% sure that the correct settings are as I have them listed in the FAQ, i.e. RGB limited
, and HDMI black level on the TV low. I've done a lot of searching on various forums on the matter. How you have it is actually how I first had it, and it doesn't look very much different with that combination, because the TV setting is counteracting the PS3 setting. However, the PS3 apparently misbehaves when set to full (doesn't pass blacker than black at the correct levels, does a weird remapping that can cause banding). See the post below from the very respected Stacy Spears, which is a pretty definitive source on the subject.http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post10630977
Originally Posted by sspears
So I just tested RGB @ full and you want to leave it as limit, unless you like to increase banding.
RGB @ Limit - Levels stay where they are. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 1, 1, 1 when done.
RGB @ Full - Levels get compressed. Y 1, CbCr 128 will be RGB 16, 16, 16 when done. (Best guess based on looking at image)
Full is different than the usual expansion where Y 16, CbCr 128 becomes RGB 0, 0, 0.
The best video quality is:
Output - YCbCr
RGB - Limit
Super White - On
BTB is still passed when RGB is set to limit, just bring brightness up to see it. Then turn brightness back down where it belongs. When you set brightness based on RGB limit and then switch to RGB full, you will see the BTB stripe. This is because you just remapped Y 7, CbCr 128 (the BTB stripe) to a much higher value.
Another thing to remember, is the with output set to YCbCr (Or Auto), this setting won't make any difference on Blu Ray movies, as it will not be outputting RGB. It should only make a difference for RGB sources, such as games and the XMB dashboard, (or when you specifically set the output to RGB for testing purposes).
Here's another good reference I found for the Samsung LNT LCD settings, which are also the same as I recommend for PS3 and HDMI black level.http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post11287410
Also, the picture settings I have in the FAQ are from my old set that was returned, and need to be updated. Here is what I am now using, which has contrast maxed at 100.
If movies look good to you, and games look good the way you have it now, your blacks and whites look good, no banding, etc. then I guess I wouldn't worry about it too much.http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post13919655
Picture mode Movie
Black Adj off
Dyn Con off
Gamma -2 (or -3)
White Bal 0
Flesh Tone 0
Edge Ehancement off
Color Tone Warm 2
Size Just Scan
Digital NR Auto
HDMI Black Level Low
Film Mode Auto
Blue Only Mode off
Color Gamut sRGB