2008 Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP owners thread and FAQ - AVS Forum
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Samsung 61" HL61A750 and 67" HL67A750 LED DLP Owners thread/FAQ

This FAQ was last updated on: 3/3/09
Note: I stole the idea and layout for this thread from the excellent Onkyo 705 thread maintained by woots.

** See post 2 below for calibration and service menu tweak information! **

[For full change log, refer to the bottom of post #1]


Click below to view the Samsung details on samsung.com
Samsung Specs

Click below to download a PDF version of the Manual, or the latest firmware
Samsung downloads

Note: If you have firmware version lower than 1005.3 you should update your firmware to fix the power cycle issue and Component black out

Go to MENU, SETUP, SW Upgrade, Then press the INFO button to display firmware version.


This FAQ/owners thread is a work in progress!


The previous 2008 Samsung DLP discussion thread located here covered the 650 bulb based sets, as well as the 750 LED sets, and was started long before the sets came out. Many owners were requesting a separate owners thread to discuss this particular set. A 650 owners thread/FAQ has been started here, based on much of the same information in the FAQ.

There is lots of information in the old thread, but I will attempt to centralize the knowledge contributed from everyone in the old thread here. Feel free to post or PM additions, and I will add them to this section.


Whether your a potential "Buyer" or an "Owner" be sure to read through ALL sections of this FAQ as some questions people ask are located in various areas. I just wanted to separate out these sections to make locating important information a little easier for people doing research on the TV.



Frequently Asked Questions


- Does this FAQ also apply to the 650 bulb based sets? What about the 67" 750
Some of the items may very well apply to the 650 set. However, some menu items and settings may be different. The two sets use two different light engines, so expect some settings to be different. The information here does apply to the 67".

- What's the cheapest price I can find this TV?

The price constantly changes up and down since the day this TV came out at a MSRP of $2399. The current MSRP is $2099. Many users have found the TV on sale and in stores for around $250 below MSRP, (may require use of coupons), or from online retailers around $400 below MSRP.

- Why should I get a 750 LED series over the 650 bulb series?
  • The 750 comes in bigger sizes, 61" and 67".
  • The 750 has an LED light source that should last the life of the set. No bulbs to replace.
  • The 750 uses the CinemaPure Color Engine that creates brilliant, realistic images and displays color that's 40% brighter than traditional HDTVs. (Note that most sources don't take advantage of this extra color space. Some Camcorders do support it.)
  • Nearly instant startup times, with instant brightness no need for the bulb or ballast to warm up.
  • No spinning color wheel, so quieter TV (color wheels spin fast and can sometimes have a high pitch whine), and less moving parts
  • Much, much less chance of seeing rainbows as the LED's cycle much faster than the color wheel.
  • "Green" TV. The LED set uses much less power than bulb based sets and has one of the lowest energy consumption of TV's. Note that actual energy usage is less than the max rated watts listed on the TV.

- Why should I get the 650 series over the 750?
  • Cheaper.
  • Want a smaller size, 56" or below.

- Why should I get the 750 series over a competitor, like the Mitsubishi
  • The 750 has an LED light source that should last the life of the set. No bulbs to replace.
  • Nearly instant startup times, with instant brightness no need for the bulb or ballast to warm up.
  • No spinning color wheel, so quieter TV (color wheels spin fast and can sometimes have a high pitch whine), and less moving parts
  • Much, much less chance of seeing rainbows as the LED's cycle much faster than the color wheel.
  • "Green" TV. The LED set uses much less power than bulb based sets and has one of the lowest energy consumption of TV's. Note that actual energy usage is less than the max rated watts listed on the TV.
  • The Samsung has 120Hz video processing for smooth, judder free playback of 24 fps film based material, such as Blu-Ray movies
  • Extensive user menu settings for picture adjustments
  • The Phlatlight LED engine is made in the USA.

- Does this set use the new TI DarkChip4?
No. From looking at the service manual, it appears that the chip is the same as last years set, which would be DarkChip3.
See this post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post13922332
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenZ View Post

The service manual says the DLP chip in the HLT6189S, HL61A750, & HL67A750 is the same: xHD5 (search AVS for more info on it).

However, the "image enhancer" IC is new in the new models. Maybe better scaling/deinterlacing? Maybe lower cost? Maybe they stopped making the previous IC? The new IC is referred to as "BAYHILL+".

- Can you give me some more information on the Phlatlight LED's used?
From here: http://www.electronichouse.com/artic...f_illumination

Quote:


"..Currently, Samsung is the only television manufacturer to offer a line of PhlatLight-enabled DLP HDTVs. The Samsung HL-T61A750 (61-in.) or 67A750 (67-in.), for example, is illuminated using a single PhlatLight PT120 chipset, which was specifically designed and optimized for use with the Texas Instruments xHD5 1080p DLP chipset. The PhlatLight PT120 is a three-color system that includes a red, green and blue LED. Each LED is a single, large area monolithic chip that can sustain extremely high power and fast pulsing. The PT120's red, green and blue LEDs combine to produce pure, accurate sequential colored light and cycle at 2.9 KHz, 48 times faster than traditional television frame rates, creating a smooth, stable color and superior motion quality. The red, green and blue LEDs in the PT120 chipset combine to produce more than 3,000 white lumens under normal operating conditions (2,000 white lumens under pulsed operation), which is enough brightness to illuminate rear projection TVs up to 67 inches with a single RGB chipset. This new Samsung model also offers a contrast ratio of 10,000:1..."

- How do I access the service menu?
Be careful in the service menu, if you don't know what you are doing, you can screw up your set!
With the TV off, press Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power on the remote. Caution, this will cause all of your user picture menu items to reset to their defaults. So, you will have to redo your contrast, brightness, etc. settings whenever you go to the service menu. Write them down before hand!! To back out of a service menu item, hit the menu button

- What are all of these service menu items?
See the list here thanks to ztkp01.

Need to start working on a description of service menu items, if anyone would like to contribute...

- How can I bring up some test patterns from the service menu? (Might be useful in a store to check geometry)
From the service menu, you can get to the test patterns by going to the DDP3021 menu, and choosing Test Pattern (DDP). You can then right arrow through various test patterns. There is one for adjusting the picture position that may be useful for checking geometry.

You can also use this image, (just copy it to a USB thumb drive and connect it to the TV
http://psleng.dyndns.org/files/tv_test/grid.jpg


- What are the dimensions of the TV, the box, the base of the TV?
61":
Set size(WxHxD) 54.8" x 37.8" x 14.4"
Package size(WxHxD) 60.0" x 42.6" x 20.2"
Just under 40" wide for the bottom base.

Dimensional drawing courtesy of tomytyler:


67":
Set size(WxHxD) 60.8" x 41.5" x 15.5"
Package size(WxHxD) 65.9" x 46.2" x 20.7"


- Does this TV have 120Hz processing? Is it like the LCD's I see in the store? Why does it say 60Hz when I press the info button?
Yes, this TV is ALWAYS doing 120Hz video processing. It cannot be turned on or off. This is not the same effect that you may see on some LCD's in a store. Those LCD's have a feature called something like Motion Enhancement that is software to enhance the motion of the image. This often has the effect of making film look like video, and can also cause what is known as TBE or triple ball effect, where you might see three balls on a fast moving baseball due to software frame interpolation. Since DLP's have a hugely faster update rate, this is not needed. The 120Hz on this TV is used to provide judder free display of 24fps sources, such as blue ray movies. When you press the info button on the remote, it shows the frame rate of the SOURCE material. For regular TV, this will usually be 60Hz. For Blu rays, it will be 24Hz. But the TV always does 120Hz video processing. 120Hz is also used for the 3d features of the TV, or to provide two full screen independent images at 60Hz to users. These features require special glasses and must be supported by the source material

- Does this TV do 1080p/24fps?
Yes, see above.

- Should I buy an extended warranty? What is the cheapest place?
It is up to you. I find most retail stores warranties are too expensive. One popular alternative on this board is the Mack extended warranty offered with special AVS discount pricing here.

Mack Warranty info with special price from Texas Tapeworks.

Since these TV's have no bulb, you should be OK with the TV only warranty. AVS discount pricing was $125 last I checked.

- What is the Service Manual part number? Where can I order one?
The part number is SM-HL61A750A1F. You can order one from samsungparts.com for $28. Online retailers have electronic copies for SERVICE MANUAL 1 $28.00 $28.00

Other places have electronic versions available cheaper. Manualuniverse.com had it for $18.99. To find it you need to search for the complete model number, which is HL61A750A1FXZA

- What is SSE?
Stands for Silk Screen Effect. It is the "sparkly" or "shimmery" look on bright backgrounds, like sky shots. It is caused by the type of high gain screen used. It's effects (if it really bothers you) can be reduced with proper brightness and contrast adjustments

- Will the optical out pass DD5.1?
Only for over the air signals. From the manual:
When the receiver (home theater) is set to On, you can hear sound output from
the TV's Optical jack. When the TV is displaying a DTV(air) signal, the TV will send
out 5.1 channel sound to the Home theater receiver. When the source is a digital
component such as a DVD and is connected to the TV via HDMI, only 2 channel
sound will be heard from the Home Theater receiver.
If you want to hear 5.1 channel audio, connect the DIGITAL AUDIO OUT
(OPTICAL) jack on the DVD player or Cable/Satellite Box directly to an Amplifier or
Home Theater, not the TV.

- How much power does this actually set use?
According to measurements done by jayquinty, On: 119 Watts. Crutchfield measured off usage at only .6 Watts. It is one of the greenest TV's you can buy, especially for it's size.

User chuckolson made these measurements with his Kill A Watt P4400 Tester to show how power usage depends on LED control setting:
Auto 170 - 190 W.
Max 170 W.
High 140 W.
Medium 119 W.
Low 99 W.
Min 84 W.

- Does this set support discrete power on/off via IR?
Yes.
- What about IR codes to go directly to their inputs?
Yes.

- Can I directly select picture mode (Movie, Standard, or (ugh) Dynamic), using my Harmony remote?
Yes, but you need to email Logitech to have them add the commands to your account. I've asked them to update the database for our sets, but last I checked they had not.

Simply do the following[/size]:
  1. Go to the logitech website, and click the email support link here
  2. Fill in your information, and ask them to convert the Pronto hex codes below into remote codes. Include your harmony remote user name in the information.
  3. They should reply to your email and add them to your account. I have asked them to add these to the general database for our TV's, we'll see if they do.


I'm fairly sure these codes would also work for the 650 series of sets.

These codes are in standard Pronto hex format:

Picture mode - Dynamic
0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0728


Picture mode - Movie
0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0728


Picture mode - Standard
0000 006C 0022 0000 00AD 00AD 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0041 0015 0015 0015 0015 0015 0728

- Does this tv work properly with the voice sync feature of HDMI 1.3a?
The TV is HMDI 1.3a compliant, but that doesn't mean it supports every feature that 1.3a can have. I haven't seen any reference to it supporting this, but will try and test it with my receiver, (Onkyo 805) which does support it, and will get back to you on this.



Known bugs, issues, warnings, setup advice

- Power cycle issue
Initial firmware release had issues where the set would randomly turn off. Fixed by firmware update 1000.4

- Black Adjust and/or Dynamic gets set to high (even though it says off) when switch to/from movie mode
When you go from Standard to Movie mode, or back to Standard, sometimes (not always on my set, haven't figured out quite the pattern), you may notice that blacks are suddenly very dark and being crushed. This is because Black Adjust in the Detailed picture setting is actually on high, even though it says off. To fix, just move the setting, and move it back to Off. I believe this also happened to me once with Dynamic Contrast.

- Black "flecks" on the inside of the screen
Most likely dust or something on the inside of the screen from shipping. Easily removed by opening up the circular access ports on the sides of the rear of the TV, and reaching in with a soft micorfiber or lens cloth and removing them

- Convergence, tilt, geometry issues
Several have reported various geometry or tilt issues, many have reported none. Tilt may be adjusted by moving the DMD light engine

- Calibration option in service menu
This is a warning, if you do this option you may need to turn the color management system back on using the CCA service menu item.

- 1080p over Component issue.
Some people have issues connecting the Xbox to the set and getting 1080p. In this case, the best connection option for Xbox is VGA cable, (or HMDI if you have that). NOTE that firmware 1000.5 should fix this issue.

- Buzzing in Dynamic mode, on very bright scenes
Some users, (including me), have reported a buzzing noise from the back of the TV if it is in Dynamic mode showing a bright scene. This is hard to hear unless the sound is muted. It may be a power supply, or the LED's , or what. I do not hear this in any of the other viewing modes. only dynamic on bright scenesLooking for more feedback from users to check how widespread this issue is

Link to similar problem with 2007 LED set, caused by LED driver board. Fix seems to be to replace the entire LED light engine.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...g#post12588890
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12430724

If the buzz is constant, not dependant on what is shown, it could be some other power supply.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...z#post12974128


- Verizon FIOS HDTV DVR picture dropouts
Kainan has reported a problem with the Verizon FIOS HDTV DVR and our TV. It loses picture randomly (every few days) and the only current fix is to unplug the power for a few seconds and plug it back in. Before I found this out I was spending tons of time on the phone with Verizon as they would reset the box and I would get the picture back. One person at Verizon said this is completely Samsung's fault while I did manage to talk to one person there who said that Verizon hadn't been able to keep up with the newer technology that is in the new Samsung 750 sets. Of course Samsung has said that this is a fault of Verizon. Neither side has budged yet and I still have to unplug the power every few days. This is ONLY on the HDTV boxes.


- Top bar reflections
Many users have reported that when watching a moview with black bars at the top and botoom, if a very bright obejct is at the top of the image, some light will bleed into the black bar.



TV Recommended Display Settings:

General Notes: Dynamic mode is pretty much regarded as useless, and intended for store demo purposes only. Standard is probably more preferable. Movie mode reportedly has the best D6500 color temp tracking.
You should adjust the contrast, brightness, color, gamma, etc. control for what looks correct for your set suing a calibration disk like the AVCHD disk, or Digital Video Essentials (DVE). So, some of the specific settings below are what worked for me, but may not work for you. However, as a general rule, recommended settings everyone should consider using are:
Edge Enhancement: off
Size: Just Scan
Color Gamut: sRGB

My settings:
Picture mode: Standard
Usage:What I like for normal Cable/HD viewing. Provides extra "pop", and 3D-ish look but clearly over saturated.

Contrast 97
Brightness 48
Sharp 0
Color 49
Tint 46/54

Detailed Settings
Black Adj off
Dyn Contrast Low (Adds the "pop" many people are looking for)
LED Control Auto (Sometimes turn down to medium at night)
Gamma 0
White Bal -4
Flesh Tone -3
Edge Ehancement off
xvYCC off

Picture Options
Color Tone Normal
Size Just Scan
Digital NR Auto
DNIe Off
HDMI Black Lvl Normal * See notes below
Film Mode Auto
Blue Only Mode off
Color Gamut sRGB
Picture mode Movie
Usage: Movies, Blu Ray playback. Generally, the most accurate mode

Contrast 100
Brightness 47
Sharp 0
Color 49
Tint 50/50

Detailed Settings
Black Adj off
Dyn Contrast off
LED Control Medium
Gamma -3
White Bal 0
Flesh Tone 0
Edge Ehancement off
xvYCC off

Picture Options
Color Tone Warm 2
Size Just Scan

Digital NR Auto
DNIe off
HDMI Black Lvl Normal * See notes below
Film Mode Auto
Blue Only Mode off
Color Gamut sRGB

Check out the Google Docs spreadsheet of other users settings
Add your own to the spreadsheet, but please do not delete or change the format of the sheet, or I will have to lock it down.

HDMI black level may be grayed out and set to Auto for cable viewing. It is also grayed out for Blu Ray playback, (providing your machine is outputting a YPb signal). This setting only affects, and is only changeable with RGB signals, such as at the PS3 XMB dashboard, or a PC.

HDMI black level = normal tells the TV to expect "normal" PC RGB 0-255 levels. HDMI black level = Low tells the TV to expect it's input to have video RGB 16-235 levels, and the TV will expand these by lowering 16 to 0 and raising 235 to 255. When viewing an RGB encoded source, if your picture is too light and blacks are not very black, or if blacks are too dark and you loose a lot of shadow detail, try switching to the other setting.


PS3 Recommended Settings:

From PS3 Settings->Display settings menu: (Note you can also adjust these while watching a movie by using the triangle button and going to the AV Display settings icon)
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White: On (Allows blacker than black and whiter than whites to be passed)
RGB Full Range: Full (** This is to optimize it for PC RGB levels, such as games **)

PS3 Settings->BD/DVD Settings
BD/DVD Video Output Format (HMDI): Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr [Automatic is also OK. Note that on Auto, for Blu Ray's, it will send video as Y Pb, and for games and the XMB dashboard it will be RGB.]

TV Settings:
Detailed Settings:
--- xvYCC: Off (On seems to make no difference to me. Only devices that use this anyways are some camcorders. Turn it on if you have such a device.)
Picture Options:
--- HDMI Black Level: Normal

With the RGB Full Range set to Full, then the HDMI Black Level in the TV's Picture Options menu should be set to Normal. With the RGB Full Range set to Limited, then the HDMI Black Level in the TV's Picture Options menu should be set to Low.
Either way is "OK", as long as you keep them consistent. You should see virtually no difference between RGB Full/HDMI Normal and RGB Limited/HDMI Low. You should not have to adjust your contrast or brightness when switching between settings. The only difference that may be apparent, is some slight color banding in one mode or the other. Note that most people on this site will tell you that RGB limited is the correct setting. This *may* be true for *their* sets, but is really a recommendation to optimize it for video level encoded sources. However, since you can set these up to use YPb output, and our sets can support the full PC RGB range, therefor I feel it is better to recommend setting it up to optimize PC level material, such as games.

Check out this post by sperron which explains it very well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sperron View Post

After a correct calibration full should look exactly like limited does after calibration (though either can introduce banding, see below). When you calibrate, you set 0 (full) or 16 (limited) to match black on your TV. You then set 235 (limited) or 255 (full) to match peak white on your TV. After you have done that, 0 (full) and 16 (limited) should look just as black, and 235 (limited) and 255 (full) should be the same exact white. With digital TVs, you are limited by the black level and peak white level that your set is capable of. Setting contrast and brightness maps the black of the source to black on your TV and the peak white of your source to the peak white of your TV. Unless your TV has some odd quirk, after calibration full and limited should be identical (again except for possible banding, see below).

If you use full for video sources, you can introduce banding because 16-235 is stretched and remapped to 0-255.

If you use limited for RGB sources, you can introduce banding because 0-255 is compressed and remapped to 16-235.

What this means is:
1) Calibration is important whichever one you select.
2) if you are primarily into Blu-Rays, playing DVDs or streaming media then you want to use limited for optimal quality
3) if you primarily are concerned about video games, full may be a better choice, especially if you are seeing banding using limited when playing games.
4)If you aren't going to calibrate, neither full or limited are going to provide a perfect experience, though one may look "better" to you.

Unless you have a HDTV that can display better then 8 bits, your set is most likely going to cause banding no matter what you do because everything is remapped to your display screen's capabilities. Even if you use full, after calibration your HDTV probably does not have 255 steps for each color anyway. Even with PC monitors, you really have to go out of your way to get an LCD that can display a full 8 bit signal, and HDTVs are even less concerned about displaying a full 0-255 PC signal. You may actually be trying to map a full 0-255 to your HDTV that may not have enough digital steps for each color to even display the entire 16-235 limited signal. Someday when all HDTVs are 10bit or better displays, this will be a bigger deal.


Thanks to user Nullman who found some test material that demonstrates this color banding issue when set to RGB Limited/HDMI black Level low. You can see for yourself with the WipeOut HD game trailer or the WallE movie trailer as he describes below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nullman View Post

I see color banding with the settings you posted that I've not seen before. One piece of source that I saw this in is the Wipeout HD trailer from the Playstation Store. There are gray boxes that rotate by with bullet points about the game in between game footage. With your settings I can clearly see color banding in the gray boxes, under the text. I see maybe a dozen distinct colors of grays and I can clearly see each step to the next color. If I leave all of your settings the same and only change HDMI Black Level to Normal on the TV and set the PS3 to Full Range RGB, the gray colors blend more smoothly from one to the next. I thought maybe it was just that trailer, so I brought up the WALL-E trailer 2. I see some color banding there too. Not as bad as with the Wipeout HD trailer though. I see it in the top 1/3rd or so of the animated Pixar logo (with the hopping light) in the powder blue background. If you have access to these two sources I'd be curious to know if you or any one else see similar results.

If you do see color banding in your picture, then try the other combination


Xbox 360 Recommended Settings:

* This section still in progress *
If your Xbox does not have HDMI as an option, you can use component or VGA. Many posters seem to prefer the VGA connection, (there were issues early on with 1080p over component, that have since been fixed with a firmware update). From testing by Turls, he suggests setting the VGA reference level to Expanded as the best setting for Xbox.


Some calibration results:

rahull
StevenZ
StevenZ settings

A general comment (allegedly) from Eliab, a well known calibrator here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post13868219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sennat View Post

Saw this on the (private) avical forum, from Eliab:

The HL61A750 that I worked on this past Saturday may be the most impressive Samsung DLP that I've worked on thus far - and I've worked on hundreds. It's a bit quirky from a calibration standpoint, but it responded terrificly and rendered an extremely satisfying image. I can't imagine getting a better picture at this size for under 2k (presently). Samsung definitely took a step in the right direction with this one.


Other resources:

Here are a collection of resources that may be useful.


Check out the Cnet review of this set. Did very well!




2007 model HL-Txx87/89 Tech Links
Some very good information in here, although not everything applies to our sets.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post12663312



Change log
5-16-2008. Fixed link t[o specs on Samsung.com. Re-ordered FAQ. Added sections about light engine. Clarified what this FAQ applies to. Added full model number to link for service manual at manualuniverse. Added Darkchip4 question. Edited bug about doing calibrate option in service menu. Clarified 1080p/24fps support. Added xbox 1080p component issue. Added buzzing in Dynamic mode
5-17-2008: Black bar image note. Added tech links and other resources section
5-20-2008: Added section about why buy the 750 vs. Mitsubishi
5-21-2008 Added section on PS3 setup. Also new firmware is out.
5-22-2008 Added Darkchip4 = NO.
5-26-2008 Added power usage, discrete IR commands, and HDMI voice sync, Xbox 360 section
6-3-2008 Updated PS3 settings, recommended settings, phlatlight info
6-9-2008 Added package dimensions for 67", and link to 650 owners FAQ
7-22-2008 Added Cnet review link
8-23-2008 Added updated power usage info and Verizon FIOS HD DVR issue.
9-28-2008 Added info on Harmony remote direct picture mode selection
10-17-2008 Added dimensional drawing
3-3--2009 Added information in post #2 for calibration/service menu tweaks
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post #2 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 10:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Some calibration info/links:

UMR Calibration report:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post14884627




Lee Bailey Service Menu settings:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post15866868

Lee Bailey Info on how to keep your Movie mode settings, and HEX codes for service menu button:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post15926394

Lee Bailey discussion on CCA:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post15930251


One users DRAMATIC before/after screenshots using Lee's settings. (Note, my improvement was not nearly this dramatic, my original PQ seemed much better).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post15874785
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post #3 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Reserving this one too.

If you have anything to add, or suggestions, you can post them or PM me and I will add them.
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post #4 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 10:44 AM
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Awesome, thanks for stepping up, Mike!

I think this is the TV only/non Bulb replacement link for Mack:
http://tapeworkstexas.com/mack_warranty_tv_only_.html

For your dimensions section, per the manual: Weight 71.2lbs (31.8kg)
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post #5 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 10:54 AM
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Kudos, nice job.
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post #6 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 12:14 PM
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Does this set have memorized picture settings for each input? I'm looking at the 61" Samsung or the 65" Mits 735 Series (which I believe has this feature).
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post #7 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 12:28 PM
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Great start Mike, thank you!!!
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post #8 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 04:24 PM
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I see rainbows on my 61 a750, almost as bad/often as my roomates 56" ultra slim samsung bulb dlp.
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post #9 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

- Calibration option in service menu a no no
This is not really a bug, but wanted to post it just in case someone does it.
From [url=http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=13680032#post13680032]rahull]:
Anyone who makes the mistake of selecting calibration in the service menu without the proper pattern on the screen will destroy picture colors (I did). To recover you need to display a 8X8 black and white checkerboard pattern and select calibrate again (picture may be better than it was before).

I found the pattern in Calman Pattern Generator (Brightness/Contrast Tab).

I did this without any adverse results. At the time I had no image on the screen and selected Calibrate several times... the colors were identical before and after. Days later I reran it with a 8x8 checkerboard and again nothing changed. Apparently we did something different and I'm going to keep trying to find out what it was.
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post #10 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 05:41 PM
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thanks for starting this thread, its been long overdue, you're AWESOME!!!
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post #11 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heyitsme22 View Post

I see rainbows on my 61 a750, almost as bad/often as my roomates 56" ultra slim samsung bulb dlp.

Wow, you are one of the very few who can. I can actually see them too, but only on things like test patterns with like a white aspect ratio circle on a black background. There are way reduced, and I've never seen them watching regular material.


No problem on starting the thread. I'll keep revising, adding to it over the next little while.
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post #12 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

I did this without any adverse results. At the time I had no image on the screen and selected Calibrate several times... the colors were identical before and after. Days later I reran it with a 8x8 checkerboard and again nothing changed. Apparently we did something different and I'm going to keep trying to find out what it was.

Hmmm... very interesting. Noted in the FAQ.
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post #13 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 06:41 PM
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Cool.I'm glad someone started an owners thread, since I'm thinking real hard about buying a 61" 750. Now that the prices are starting to drop.
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post #14 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

Wow, you are one of the very few who can. I can actually see them too, but only on things like test patterns with like a white aspect ratio circle on a black background. There are way reduced, and I've never seen them watching regular material.


No problem on starting the thread. I'll keep revising, adding to it over the next little while.


hmm, thats weird, I don't think im super sensitive to rbe, or anything. I was just watching my buddys bulb dlp set, and I think they are about the same in terms of seeing rainbow effect. Maybe I got a bad set or something. But It defiantly there and it really bums me out I really liked this tv.
It makes sense tho flashing leds, spinning color wheel both flashing light and im senstive to it.

great thread by the way.
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post #15 of 15731 Old 05-15-2008, 09:06 PM
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Does that firmware 1004 and those calibration setting apply to both the 650 and the 750?
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post #16 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post

I did this without any adverse results. At the time I had no image on the screen and selected Calibrate several times... the colors were identical before and after. Days later I reran it with a 8x8 checkerboard and again nothing changed. Apparently we did something different and I'm going to keep trying to find out what it was.

After it is ran, it turns off CCA which controls your TV's color.. You need to turn it back on.. IF someone accidentally hits it
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post #17 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 05:57 AM
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Listed in the Service Menu is "AMP Volume 41".

What is the maximum value for this?
Does this pertain to the TVs main volume?

The A750's speakers sound so weak.
I pumped up the 100Hz and 300Hz settings on the equalizer, but the sound still sounds bad.
Sound needs more bass, but moving 100Hz and 300Hz too high gives distortion.

I had the HLT6189 TV and the sound was really good, nice effects.
It could be the manufacturer of the speakers that gives this difference.
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post #18 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 06:18 AM
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I would also recommend people try Charles R's settings for th TV as I am pretty happy with those. Do not remember them off the top of my head, but it had Dynamic Contrast on high and LED adjust on MIN as a base (to give the deepest blacks and highest contrasts) and then worked from there. Maybe if everyone plays nice he will post them lol
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post #19 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadiman26 View Post

After it is ran, it turns off CCA which controls your TV's color.. You need to turn it back on.. IF someone accidentally hits it

My CCA was set to off! I toggled it between on/off and could see the color being altered (to a small degree). Since the set was in Dynamic mode it was hard to tell which looked better. I left it On and putting back my favorite settings it certainly doesn't look worse.
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post #20 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

Hmmm... very interesting. Noted in the FAQ.

Problem when pushing "calibrate" in service menu

Probably not. I did it just after getting the set. I think all that happened was it went to dynamic mode and I didn't know enough to realize what happened. I'll attach final calibration results. Movie mode, led control medium, +1 gamma, warm2, gamut rgb, all options off. Picture quality excellent in my opinion.
LL
LL
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post #21 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 06:58 AM
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Great job Mike_Pro! I think a known bug is still the issues with 1080p over component, maybe you didn't list it but I've seen at least a couple people confirm it in the big thread even with the new firmware.

I would suggest mentioning in your summary that the best option for 360 owners is to just use VGA.

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post #22 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsmaniac02 View Post

I would also recommend people try Charles R's settings for th TV as I am pretty happy with those. Do not remember them off the top of my head, but it had Dynamic Contrast on high and LED adjust on MIN as a base (to give the deepest blacks and highest contrasts) and then worked from there. Maybe if everyone plays nice he will post them lol

y can't u just post ur settings and we can start there...
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post #23 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turls View Post

Great job Mike_Pro! I think a known bug is still the issues with 1080p over component, maybe you didn't list it but I've seen at least a couple people confirm it in the big thread even with the new firmware.

I don't think that no 1080p over component is a bug. I'm not aware of any consumer TVs that will accept 1080p over component. Or any consumer source that will output 1080p over component. I don't know whether that is a digital issue or bandwidth issue or what.

Edit 05-21-08. I should have done better research about TVs and componets that accept or send 1080p over comonent. Disregard my comments about sources and TVs accepting or send 1080p over comonent.

My point should have stated that since 1080p is not in the current standard for component, I don't think it can be considered a bug if it does not work correctly all of the time. I believe there have been proposals made to add 1080p to the standard. If issues can be fixed with firmware, then they should do so.
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post #24 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyBeatnik View Post

I don't think that no 1080p over component is a bug. I'm not aware of any consumer TVs that will accept 1080p over component. Or any consumer source that will output 1080p over component. I don't know whether that is a digital issue or bandwidth issue or what.

Well it works most of the time, and the 360 supports setting 1080p over component. If they support setting it you would think the official MS cables would support it. I posted videos on YouTube of the behavior. This was discussed a lot in the big thread and I don't remember the argument being made that it wasn't supported.

Matt
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post #25 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wopino View Post

y can't u just post ur settings and we can start there...


I know it sounds weird but I really feel like I have no clue about them right now. I am relatively sure they are something like this:

Contrast:85
Brightness: ranges from 49 to 69 depending on conditions of room
sharpness:0
color:53
tint:47/50
color: warm1
mode: movie
LED adjust: min (bump to about medium if room is brighter)
dynamic contrast: high

I am pretty sure about those, I would assume that I have any other kind of "enhancement" turned off. Sorry I don't have more exact info for you guys; its been an "off" day for me
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post #26 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turls View Post

Well it works most of the time, and the 360 supports setting 1080p over component. If they support setting it you would think the official MS cables would support it. I posted videos on YouTube of the behavior. This was discussed a lot in the big thread and I don't remember the argument being made that it wasn't supported.

Didn't know about the 360. Thanks for the info.

Component has been out way longer than 1080p and is probably not in the specifications. It will probably remain hit or miss as far as working. Since you can't upconvert regular DVDs over component (in most cases), and with everything moving to HDMI, I would not expect companies to try to upgrade an old technology.

Just my opinion though.
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post #27 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 11:32 AM
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Thank you for starting a new thread Mike. 105 pages was getting ridiculous.

I thought I would make my first post an intro and comment on the firmware update process. I noticed one of the users on the other thread was contemplating the update but was waiting for some reason. DON'T WAIT!! It's a super easy process and fixes the power-off bug in the previous software version.

I picked up my set last Friday from BB on their web-special price, along with the $100 off for any BR player, so we went with the PS3. All I can say is the PQ is absolutely stunning. Our old set was a Panasonic rear projection from '02. It's power supply board melted down a capacitor and it would just shut itself off within about 5 seconds on power-up. BTW, Costco took that set back for full credit after five and a half years. Too bad they don't sell Samsung!!

I arrived at pretty much the same picture settings that Mike has posted, great info there. We watched our second BR movie on Wednesday and got our first power-cycle black-out. I had already been lurking on other thread so wasn't surprised when it happened.

At that point I decided to look into the firmware update, so I jumped on the 'net and found the Samsung site and sure enough, easy enough to download the file. I also found that on the set, in the SW (software) update mode, if you press the 'info' key it displays the current firmware version of the set. Mine was 1001, the new file is 1004. I imagine that means there were three updates since my set was built. BTW, Samsung only offers up the most current firmware version on their site, along with a PDF sheet with instructions.

Since it hasn't been detailed on any of the threads yet I thought I would go over the process to ease any aprehension from any of the new set owners.

The download file is about 20mb, it's an execute file that unzips the compressed files for updating the set. You do need a USB flashdrive in order to do the update. When you run the exe file you are promted for an unzip folder. Just tell it to unzip to your flash-drive, it will create a folder and put the required files in it. The set automatically locates the folder/directory it needs on your flash drive and runs the update.

Insert the flash drive in the USB socket on the back of the set, cancel the prompt for 'Wise' connection, then select the menu item for SW Update. It does it all by itself, and you're good to go!

The latest report form the owners is that this fixes the power-off cycling with hdmi connected componenets. I have not tried another BR movie yet but I'm guessing my set is fixed.

For anyone lurking that's trying to decide if these sets are any good, I can say without hesitation that they are fantastic. The stores are pushing LCD, but in this size they are really expensive. Unless you need a wall-mount set, the Samsung just has to be the best unit out there, especially now with the LED lamping system.

Thanks for reading and happy viewing!
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post #28 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 01:30 PM
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I just wanted to say hi. I just took delivery of a 61A750 a few hours ago. I spent the last 3 hours setting up all of the inputs. I also ran through some tests. The set is pretty good out of the box, but I had to tweak some of the settings. It was brighter than I thought it would be. I am even coming from the 4071F LCD from Samsung which was a bright set. This monster makes the 40 inch look like a portable TV.

I just want to say if anyone is on the fence about this set, you are crazy. Jump in and you will not be disappointed. The picture quality and color is incredible. The size is almost like being in a movie theater. I am very happy with this set and will be hanging around this thread for a while.

I acquired this set in a very peculiar way. For those that are interested, I purchased a Samsung LNT4071f in mid January so I would have it in time for the Superbowl. I bought it because of the AMP feature that tries to interpret frames and insert them in between two real frames. This process is supposed to reduce motion blur. The problem is this new technology created problems for small fast moving objects like footballs, baseballs, golfballs, and hockey pucks. It is known as TBE or triple ball effect because the ball turns in to multiple balls when it is thrown. Since I purchased the TV mainly for Football and video games, this presented a problem. Samsung was aware of the issue and posted something on their website to let owners know it was fixed for some settings and they were working on a fix for all of the settings with this feature.

To make a long story short, it really wasn't fixed and it has been almost 6 months since they stated that. They released new models with this feature and even though it was improved, it never really eliminated the problem with TBE. I started to complain and we set up a repair. The tech knew about this and couldn't repair the problem. Samsung replaced my TV with the same model. It was better but it was not 100% fixed. I then started to complain again and this time they were going to give me my money back. I asked if they could give me another model instead. They agreed and a couple weeks later here I am. I couldn't be more pleased with them doing this for me even though it was such a huge hassle on my part to call and complain every day and sometimes more than once a day. I am happy now and would definitley by Samsung products in the future.

Talk to you soon.
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post #29 of 15731 Old 05-16-2008, 08:43 PM
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I just wanna say thanks for all the input. My friend is on his 2nd Sammy DLP set and he recommended this set to me. I'm glad there is such an abundance of information you folks provided to help solidify my decision in getting a HL61a750. Thanks to all the contributions from posters of all the various threads on the Series 7 LED DLP RPTV's.
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post #30 of 15731 Old 05-17-2008, 05:12 AM
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where are cheapest price I can find this TV?
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