2008 Samsung HLxxA650 DLP Owners Thread/FAQ - Page 29 - AVS Forum
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post #841 of 864 Old 12-04-2013, 07:23 PM
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mwave.com on ebay. I cheaped out. Around $40, but they are covered by warranty. I've had bulbs that said samsung on them. Didn't last too much longer.
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post #842 of 864 Old 12-16-2013, 02:39 PM
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Ugh, DLP chip went. On the fence about changing it but I was not in the market until 4K came down. It's like how much do I really want to invest in this TV?
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post #843 of 864 Old 12-18-2013, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cobra View Post

mwave.com on ebay. I cheaped out. Around $40, but they are covered by warranty. I've had bulbs that said samsung on them. Didn't last too much longer.
They have a 30 Day warranty, same as the one I bought from Amazon and it failed prematurely at about the 9th month.
So are bulbs from that place safe and genuine? Have you shopped from there before?
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post #844 of 864 Old 12-18-2013, 08:04 PM
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180 day warranty. So except for the down time, free replacement. Buy alot of computer stuff there. All good stuff. They have a higher price on the website than ebay store. I thought that should be the other way around, but whatever.
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post #845 of 864 Old 02-18-2014, 05:09 PM
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So picked up a 72" A650 on saturday from craigslist for dirt cheap. Its doing the power off overheat after about 2 min. Ive ordered both replacement exhaust fans and nice 10,000 hour replacement capacitors for power board type A, ballast and the digital input board. Total was like $21 for all the caps and $30 for fans. Ill solder those in, replace the fans and then add a diy usb powered fan and see what happens.
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post #846 of 864 Old 02-19-2014, 08:20 AM
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Let us know how it goes.

Mine has a noisy something. Fan or colorwheel I'm assuming. But otherwise going great. Hope I don't jinx myself.

I bought a new 70 vizio LCD thinking this TV was on the way out, but it must know it could get replaced, so it won't give up the ghost. New tv is still sitting in the box.

I really love my DLP.
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post #847 of 864 Old 02-19-2014, 01:09 PM
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How was the vizios pq versus your dlp when you tested it?
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post #848 of 864 Old 03-26-2014, 05:44 PM
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I have a strange problem and hopefully someone here can help me. I recently cut back to local tv (fios), and since all my tvs have clear qam tuners, I do not need a box I just run the cable in to the back of my samsung. Occassionally my NBC affiliate on channel 2.1 just randomly disappears on my samsung tv. I have checked the other two tvs in my house and I still get 2.1 so I know the issue is not with FIOS. Any ideas on how to fix this? I do not want to have to research for channels all the time because a lot of blank or repeat channels show up and I do not want to have to delete them every single time. Any ideas?
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post #849 of 864 Old 04-06-2014, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrawn527 View Post

Sorry if this question has come up before. I browsed through quite a bit of the thread, but didn't see this specific issue.

I bought the Samsung HL61A650C1FXZA last week on Craig's List for a very good price. Now I think I know why. The blue and white colors seem to...pulsate, is really the best word I can use to describe it. Every one second it goes from brighter, to darker, then brighter again, then darker again. All the other colors are just fine, and otherwise the brightness level is fine. But this (essentially) blinking light is driving me crazy.
 

~~Traced an identical problem on my cousins 650 to a bad fan (the one mounted behind the I/O panel that blows on the main power supply board - yes there's a third fan back there - I forgot about that one myself and was initially certain the noise had to be the color wheel). In this case it was pulsing intermittently. The fan bearing was worn - at times the fan would run normally, and the picture would be fine. The fan bearing would intermittently get noisy and not maintain rated RPM (2800), and the color temp would pulsate blue/red until it bearing settled down. Wish all fixes were that obvious. That said, there is a good possibility the pulsing is a general (non critical) fault mode - in this case the fan was triggering it - could indicate a host of other problems. Samsung SM for the set doesn't appear to cover this "fault mode" with any list of possible causes.

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post #850 of 864 Old 04-06-2014, 12:54 AM
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Getting back to overscan.  On the 750 light engine, the cylindrical sub assembly that protrudes into the block (opposite DMD, below the large exit lens)  contains a simple zoom (fixed, adjustable, or modifyable? I would have to disassemble it)   Adjusting the position of the concave mirror buried in the middle of this assembly should, in theory,  adjust overscan without side effects.    I need a spare part to experiment with, though.  Less common parts are getting near impossible to find.   There's epoxy/rigid adhesive involved... Not worth the risk of destroying the one I'm using.  I would be looking for this assembly from a 67A750.   The 750 (and some other light engines I've worked on) this assembly is threaded into the block, and rotating it with your finger adjusts screen focus.   Suspect this assembly might be common to more than one engine/screen size.

 

I've also discovered on the 750, there is  ~1% zoom in the scaler that cannot be undone.  "Just Scan" is not a 1:1 pixel map.  "16x9" scales about 1-2% more.   I'm unsure of the 650s, but the HLT-xx76 models that use the same DMD do project the entire 1920*1080 image (though the optics won't let you see it on screen- it is all there on the backside of the bezel). In Just Scan about 3 pixels are missing from all sides on the 750.  The DMD is 1920*1080 (with actuator).

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post #851 of 864 Old 04-10-2014, 07:16 PM
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Does anyone know where I can find the last firmware update for the A650?
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post #852 of 864 Old 06-27-2014, 01:12 PM
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Just replaced the lamp (with housing) on my HL50-650 and the screen looks as good as new...
Good for another 3 years!

Love this puppy!

One point to note to others...
The system won't go on/light up until the case's flap-door is reattached/closed.

Last edited by kitatiger; 06-27-2014 at 01:23 PM.
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post #853 of 864 Old 06-27-2014, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitatiger View Post
Just replaced the lamp (with housing) on my HL50-650 and the screen looks as good as new...
Good for another 3 years!

Love this puppy!

One point to note to others...
The system won't go on/light up until the case's flap-door is reattached/closed.
I'm going on 8 years of moderate to heavy use (well over 10k hours) and expect mine to go out years ago. When the time comes I hope there is still enough info on the bulb to order the same one. But if there isn't, where did you get your bulb?

Mine is the best piece of gear I have ever purchased and doubt I will ever find anything as good.
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post #854 of 864 Old 06-27-2014, 02:12 PM
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post #855 of 864 Old 06-27-2014, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitatiger View Post
Great! Thanks. It looks like these are getting cheaper for the lamp and the holder. I've been looking for a long while just in case. There are two brands that they used and when mine goes out and I pull it, I will be able to tell which one it was. I haven't had good luck with regular Philips lighting products in the past, so if it is a Philips, great. Just wish the other bulbs lasted as long. I have a thousand $ of LED PARs in my house that Philips says will last 23 years under normal use. I use them about 30% of that so . . . I hope they last at least as long as they say. Got them a week before they discontinued them and they won't tell me why they're discontinued. Oh well.

Thanks again.
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post #856 of 864 Old 06-28-2014, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by FarmerBob View Post
Great! Thanks. It looks like these are getting cheaper for the lamp and the holder. I've been looking for a long while just in case. There are two brands that they used and when mine goes out and I pull it, I will be able to tell which one it was. I haven't had good luck with regular Philips lighting products in the past, so if it is a Philips, great. Just wish the other bulbs lasted as long. I have a thousand $ of LED PARs in my house that Philips says will last 23 years under normal use. I use them about 30% of that so . . . I hope they last at least as long as they say. Got them a week before they discontinued them and they won't tell me why they're discontinued. Oh well.

Thanks again.
I get them from Amazon seller "Executivelamps". They pack a warranty card with the bulb's S/N preprinted on it, as well as a leaflet showing how to identify a genuine Phillips bulb. Few dollars more but roughly the same price.

As far as aftermarket bulbs the only ones I've ever used with consistently good results are from Buslink. They are about 10% brighter with a 2000 hour lamp life. Last one from them I used ran fine out to 3100 hours.

PQ overall is comparable. Color spectrum is just a touch wider with the Phillips bulb.

I wont touch any other bulbs besides those two (whacked color temperature - low output - messy explosive failures)

I've also learned to inspect the wiring that jumps between the bulb to the housing connector. Once in awhile one of these wires will be resting along/touching the reflector glass. The metal conductor gets too hot/oxidizes resulting in premature failure usually within about 1000 hours, even though the plastic insulator will look OK. These failures can be corrected with another good wire from a spare housing. Bend the wire or loosen the terminal screw and reorient so it's not touching the back of the reflector before installing and it will be fine. One would think this would be a problem on the bulb end at the terminal crimp, but for some reason it's not a problem there. I've seen this (guessing) 10% of all bulbs regardless of brand.
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post #857 of 864 Old 06-28-2014, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbrian200 View Post
I get them from Amazon seller "Executivelamps". They pack a warranty card with the bulb's S/N preprinted on it, as well as a leaflet showing how to identify a genuine Phillips bulb. Few dollars more but roughly the same price.

As far as aftermarket bulbs the only ones I've ever used with consistently good results are from Buslink. They are about 10% brighter with a 2000 hour lamp life. Last one from them I used ran fine out to 3100 hours.

PQ overall is comparable. Color spectrum is just a touch wider with the Phillips bulb.

I wont touch any other bulbs besides those two (whacked color temperature - low output - messy explosive failures)

I've also learned to inspect the wiring that jumps between the bulb to the housing connector. Once in awhile one of these wires will be resting along/touching the reflector glass. The metal conductor gets too hot/oxidizes resulting in premature failure usually within about 1000 hours, even though the plastic insulator will look OK. These failures can be corrected with another good wire from a spare housing. Bend the wire or loosen the terminal screw and reorient so it's not touching the back of the reflector before installing and it will be fine. One would think this would be a problem on the bulb end at the terminal crimp, but for some reason it's not a problem there. I've seen this (guessing) 10% of all bulbs regardless of brand.
The other brand that Samsung used and was the bigger seller was Osram. That is why I am looking to see what's in mine. No matter what brand mine is, it has well over 10,000 hours on it. I was suppose to get an LED model but the dealer screwed up. Kinda glad they did. I am reading that the bulb versions, although may need repair in their later years have a far better picture due to the bulb.
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post #858 of 864 Old 06-28-2014, 08:59 AM
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My ebay lamp also came with a warranty card.

Samsung HL50A650

Last edited by kitatiger; 07-13-2014 at 07:42 PM.
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post #859 of 864 Old 06-28-2014, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by FarmerBob View Post
I am reading that the bulb versions, although may need repair in their later years have a far better picture due to the bulb.
I have both (between 3 sets), HLT5676, HL61A650, and a HL67A750(LED). The bulb based sets are more brilliant in regard to contrasting highlights. The LED set is superior with highly saturated color at the extreme (very dark, very bright) ends of the grayscale. Samsung did away with the motorized iris on the LED sets, to the bulb sets can show a truer black level on dark scenes (mainly an issue in a very dark room where you'd have the brightness level turned down). My favorite of the three is actually the older HLT5676. The optical design of the light engine is superior: all mirrors, no shaped lenses after the DMD. That set is capable of razor sharp focus across the entire screen with no prizm effects (colored highlights bleeding out of an object's border). Wish they'd kept that optical design through the later sets when they reverted back to the deeper chassis. The geometry issues on the xx76's weren't a fault of the light engine, it was the extreme angle between the top/rear chassis mirror and the screen that doesn't want to sit perfectly flat.
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post #860 of 864 Old 06-28-2014, 02:17 PM
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All I know is that out of my three the A650 is the best, even compared to the two LaserVues. I have no viewing issues, except for in the beginning with the A650, when I would turn my head really quick, "I saw the rainbow". Not a problem anymore. I have no complaints about any of the "idiosyncrasies" that the design and build of the various sets can cause. Mine has been flawless on all levels with no bibs or burps. I have heard and noticed that the A650 has a richer picture than the LED. And when I have seen the LED line, I have a couple installed in clients homes, it was a bit "electronically harsh" for me. Love my "movie theatre" view of the world. Just had a thought of if I had to replace it what would I do?!!!

So I figure I made out great even with all the screw ups with order. Got the unit for half price and a free 4 year warranty and shipping. I have SquareTrade warranties on everything and some that had warranties that expired I was able to get new warranties on them as used. Think I'll try that with the A650. If not, I'll start opening it up and doing the "after the warranty owner maintenance" on it.

But so far I could not have asked for a better display. And as I have said, I'm going on, if not over 10,000 hours on the original bulb. I'm amazed. The pic is gettin' a little dark, but nothing that I can't deal with. It's still gorgeous. I'm totally prepared for the "POP!" when the bulb goes.

Last edited by FarmerBob; 06-28-2014 at 02:22 PM.
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post #861 of 864 Old 07-01-2014, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmerBob View Post
All I know is that out of my three the A650 is the best, even compared to the two LaserVues. I have no viewing issues, except for in the beginning with the A650, when I would turn my head really quick, "I saw the rainbow". Not a problem anymore. I have no complaints about any of the "idiosyncrasies" that the design and build of the various sets can cause. Mine has been flawless on all levels with no bibs or burps. I have heard and noticed that the A650 has a richer picture than the LED. And when I have seen the LED line, I have a couple installed in clients homes, it was a bit "electronically harsh" for me. Love my "movie theatre" view of the world. Just had a thought of if I had to replace it what would I do?!!!

So I figure I made out great even with all the screw ups with order. Got the unit for half price and a free 4 year warranty and shipping. I have SquareTrade warranties on everything and some that had warranties that expired I was able to get new warranties on them as used. Think I'll try that with the A650. If not, I'll start opening it up and doing the "after the warranty owner maintenance" on it.

But so far I could not have asked for a better display. And as I have said, I'm going on, if not over 10,000 hours on the original bulb. I'm amazed. The pic is gettin' a little dark, but nothing that I can't deal with. It's still gorgeous. I'm totally prepared for the "POP!" when the bulb goes.
I've never seen a Mits Laservue in person. Repair parts are too difficult to acquire/rare. Mitsubishi CE products have always had this issue I tend to avoid all of their stuff for this reason. (expensive easily repairable devices become paperweights because parts are nonexistant)
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post #862 of 864 Old 07-11-2014, 08:29 PM
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Focus problem after replacing DLP chip

Hello all. I'm not sure if anyone can help and I looked through a bunch of this thread and couldn't find anything on this.

I recently replaced the DLP chip after starting to get a lot of white dots, and followed the instructions perfectly. The installation did not take long, and in 45 minutes or so, I booted the TV back up. When I booted it, the white dots were gone but the entire picture is very blurry or fuzzy. The menus are the same, and I can't seem to fix this.

I've tried taking the entire light engine apart and cleaning everything (chassis, chip, lens, mirrors etc) and putting it back in and there is no change. I've also tried adjusting what I think has something to do with focus which is a small dial right behind the lens. You can turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise, but this is having no effect on the pictures focus at all. I've adjusted it while the tv is on, and it does nothing. You can only adjust this a little bit, and it seems to make the entire lens go up or down depending on what direction you are turning it.

Is there another dial that I don't know about to adjust focus? Nothing has any fingerprints or is dusty or dirty, so that's not the reason for the tv being out of focus. I followed the guide to put everything back in perfectly as well. No problems, no screws misplaced or anything like that. I've also tried adjusting the spring loaded screws, but nothing.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm out! This is very frustrating..I sincerely appreciate any help you all can provide.

Thanks,
Matt
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post #863 of 864 Old 07-27-2014, 05:30 AM
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I just replaced my bulb and I am seeing these two circles just on a black screen only. Any suggestions on how to fix? I also cleaned the dust out of my tv.

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post #864 of 864 Old 07-29-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattysmatts View Post
Hello all. I'm not sure if anyone can help and I looked through a bunch of this thread and couldn't find anything on this.

I recently replaced the DLP chip after starting to get a lot of white dots, and followed the instructions perfectly. The installation did not take long, and in 45 minutes or so, I booted the TV back up. When I booted it, the white dots were gone but the entire picture is very blurry or fuzzy. The menus are the same, and I can't seem to fix this.

I've tried taking the entire light engine apart and cleaning everything (chassis, chip, lens, mirrors etc) and putting it back in and there is no change. I've also tried adjusting what I think has something to do with focus which is a small dial right behind the lens. You can turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise, but this is having no effect on the pictures focus at all. I've adjusted it while the tv is on, and it does nothing. You can only adjust this a little bit, and it seems to make the entire lens go up or down depending on what direction you are turning it.

Is there another dial that I don't know about to adjust focus? Nothing has any fingerprints or is dusty or dirty, so that's not the reason for the tv being out of focus. I followed the guide to put everything back in perfectly as well. No problems, no screws misplaced or anything like that. I've also tried adjusting the spring loaded screws, but nothing.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm out! This is very frustrating..I sincerely appreciate any help you all can provide.

Thanks,
Matt
There should be a little physical focus ring/knob that will move the DLP chip area physically up and down that you mentioned. Did you install the correct replacement chip and the exact same one that was in there? maybe the chip you used was different/sized different possibly and that is why you can't get it working.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ajc1616 View Post
I just replaced my bulb and I am seeing these two circles just on a black screen only. Any suggestions on how to fix? I also cleaned the dust out of my tv.
When you cleaned out the dust, some of it floated somewhere it shouldn't be. Either it is on the lens or it got in between the lens assembly and the DLP chip that sits under it.


Anyway I finally had time to finish getting my 72A650 running. I replaced all the caps on the model A power board, a cap or two on the input board (I can't remember if i did that one or not) and the cap on the ballast board. Originally when I bought the tv for $100, the bulb kept shutting off intermittently then coming back on. Appears to have been capacitor related as it no longer does that since I soldered in new high quality caps everywhere. I also got a "tested" c version power board for like 40 bucks and that one also shuts off the bulb somewhat intermittently. Moral is the original caps on these boards blow and you should really invest the like $25 bucks in new caps
I've attached the capacitor digikey parts list I used for the BP44-01002A power board and the cap for the ballast. I de-soldered and then slid the new ones in at 350 degrees C. You'll want a good temp controlled soldering iron. Draw out where the caps are, what type they are (voltage and uf rating) and what direction the white stripe on the cap goes before taking them out. If you put the cap in backwards on the ballast, you'll repeatedly blow your power board fuse until you flip it but it won't do any damage to anything (ask me how I know. I forgot to record that one and looked at the wrong online pics)

So anyway everything is now working with one caveat. A new fly in the ointment is I've got 7 white perma. dots on the screen that indicate my dlp chip needs replacement. I browsed online and it appears $180 is the cheapest. Is that our best deal or are there other options you guys are aware of? Also what is the correct replacement dlp chip model number for the 72A650

Last edited by blackoper; 07-29-2014 at 08:10 PM.
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