So are bulbs from that place safe and genuine? Have you shopped from there before?
Mine has a noisy something. Fan or colorwheel I'm assuming. But otherwise going great. Hope I don't jinx myself.
I bought a new 70 vizio LCD thinking this TV was on the way out, but it must know it could get replaced, so it won't give up the ghost. New tv is still sitting in the box.
I really love my DLP.
Sorry if this question has come up before. I browsed through quite a bit of the thread, but didn't see this specific issue.
I bought the Samsung HL61A650C1FXZA last week on Craig's List for a very good price. Now I think I know why. The blue and white colors seem to...pulsate, is really the best word I can use to describe it. Every one second it goes from brighter, to darker, then brighter again, then darker again. All the other colors are just fine, and otherwise the brightness level is fine. But this (essentially) blinking light is driving me crazy.
~~Traced an identical problem on my cousins 650 to a bad fan (the one mounted behind the I/O panel that blows on the main power supply board - yes there's a third fan back there - I forgot about that one myself and was initially certain the noise had to be the color wheel). In this case it was pulsing intermittently. The fan bearing was worn - at times the fan would run normally, and the picture would be fine. The fan bearing would intermittently get noisy and not maintain rated RPM (2800), and the color temp would pulsate blue/red until it bearing settled down. Wish all fixes were that obvious. That said, there is a good possibility the pulsing is a general (non critical) fault mode - in this case the fan was triggering it - could indicate a host of other problems. Samsung SM for the set doesn't appear to cover this "fault mode" with any list of possible causes.
Getting back to overscan. On the 750 light engine, the cylindrical sub assembly that protrudes into the block (opposite DMD, below the large exit lens) contains a simple zoom (fixed, adjustable, or modifyable? I would have to disassemble it) Adjusting the position of the concave mirror buried in the middle of this assembly should, in theory, adjust overscan without side effects. I need a spare part to experiment with, though. Less common parts are getting near impossible to find. There's epoxy/rigid adhesive involved... Not worth the risk of destroying the one I'm using. I would be looking for this assembly from a 67A750. The 750 (and some other light engines I've worked on) this assembly is threaded into the block, and rotating it with your finger adjusts screen focus. Suspect this assembly might be common to more than one engine/screen size.
I've also discovered on the 750, there is ~1% zoom in the scaler that cannot be undone. "Just Scan" is not a 1:1 pixel map. "16x9" scales about 1-2% more. I'm unsure of the 650s, but the HLT-xx76 models that use the same DMD do project the entire 1920*1080 image (though the optics won't let you see it on screen- it is all there on the backside of the bezel). In Just Scan about 3 pixels are missing from all sides on the 750. The DMD is 1920*1080 (with actuator).
Good for another 3 years!
Love this puppy!
One point to note to others...
The system won't go on/light up until the case's flap-door is reattached/closed.
Last edited by kitatiger; 06-27-2014 at 02:23 PM.
Mine is the best piece of gear I have ever purchased and doubt I will ever find anything as good.
As far as aftermarket bulbs the only ones I've ever used with consistently good results are from Buslink. They are about 10% brighter with a 2000 hour lamp life. Last one from them I used ran fine out to 3100 hours.
PQ overall is comparable. Color spectrum is just a touch wider with the Phillips bulb.
I wont touch any other bulbs besides those two (whacked color temperature - low output - messy explosive failures)
I've also learned to inspect the wiring that jumps between the bulb to the housing connector. Once in awhile one of these wires will be resting along/touching the reflector glass. The metal conductor gets too hot/oxidizes resulting in premature failure usually within about 1000 hours, even though the plastic insulator will look OK. These failures can be corrected with another good wire from a spare housing. Bend the wire or loosen the terminal screw and reorient so it's not touching the back of the reflector before installing and it will be fine. One would think this would be a problem on the bulb end at the terminal crimp, but for some reason it's not a problem there. I've seen this (guessing) 10% of all bulbs regardless of brand.
So I figure I made out great even with all the screw ups with order. Got the unit for half price and a free 4 year warranty and shipping. I have SquareTrade warranties on everything and some that had warranties that expired I was able to get new warranties on them as used. Think I'll try that with the A650. If not, I'll start opening it up and doing the "after the warranty owner maintenance" on it.
But so far I could not have asked for a better display. And as I have said, I'm going on, if not over 10,000 hours on the original bulb. I'm amazed. The pic is gettin' a little dark, but nothing that I can't deal with. It's still gorgeous. I'm totally prepared for the "POP!" when the bulb goes.
Last edited by FarmerBob; 06-28-2014 at 03:22 PM.
I recently replaced the DLP chip after starting to get a lot of white dots, and followed the instructions perfectly. The installation did not take long, and in 45 minutes or so, I booted the TV back up. When I booted it, the white dots were gone but the entire picture is very blurry or fuzzy. The menus are the same, and I can't seem to fix this.
I've tried taking the entire light engine apart and cleaning everything (chassis, chip, lens, mirrors etc) and putting it back in and there is no change. I've also tried adjusting what I think has something to do with focus which is a small dial right behind the lens. You can turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise, but this is having no effect on the pictures focus at all. I've adjusted it while the tv is on, and it does nothing. You can only adjust this a little bit, and it seems to make the entire lens go up or down depending on what direction you are turning it.
Is there another dial that I don't know about to adjust focus? Nothing has any fingerprints or is dusty or dirty, so that's not the reason for the tv being out of focus. I followed the guide to put everything back in perfectly as well. No problems, no screws misplaced or anything like that. I've also tried adjusting the spring loaded screws, but nothing.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm out! This is very frustrating..I sincerely appreciate any help you all can provide.
Anyway I finally had time to finish getting my 72A650 running. I replaced all the caps on the model A power board, a cap or two on the input board (I can't remember if i did that one or not) and the cap on the ballast board. Originally when I bought the tv for $100, the bulb kept shutting off intermittently then coming back on. Appears to have been capacitor related as it no longer does that since I soldered in new high quality caps everywhere. I also got a "tested" c version power board for like 40 bucks and that one also shuts off the bulb somewhat intermittently. Moral is the original caps on these boards blow and you should really invest the like $25 bucks in new caps
I've attached the capacitor digikey parts list I used for the BP44-01002A power board and the cap for the ballast. I de-soldered and then slid the new ones in at 350 degrees C. You'll want a good temp controlled soldering iron. Draw out where the caps are, what type they are (voltage and uf rating) and what direction the white stripe on the cap goes before taking them out. If you put the cap in backwards on the ballast, you'll repeatedly blow your power board fuse until you flip it but it won't do any damage to anything (ask me how I know. I forgot to record that one and looked at the wrong online pics)
So anyway everything is now working with one caveat. A new fly in the ointment is I've got 7 white perma. dots on the screen that indicate my dlp chip needs replacement. I browsed online and it appears $180 is the cheapest. Is that our best deal or are there other options you guys are aware of? Also what is the correct replacement dlp chip model number for the 72A650
Last edited by blackoper; 07-29-2014 at 09:10 PM.
My HL50A650 (purchased in 2008, probably has 25,000 hours), went "bang" and shut down last night.
I replaced the original bulb about 1.5 yrs. ago. The bulb appears to be OK.
So upon revisiting this site and seeing all the various failures on these units (ballasts, DMD chips, caps on boards, color wheels. etc.) >> I find myself having to decide if this unit is worth additional effort/money, or if it might be time to replace it.
In other words; wondering how many people have had good luck; staying with these units beyond the 6 yr/25000hr. mark?