2008 Samsung HL67A750 LED DLP owners thread - Page 94 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2791 of 2810 Old 08-31-2015, 03:20 PM
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I'm sure a call to shopjimmy.com could help.


So after rediscovering this thread again I purchased a DMD chip and installed it yesterday. There were a couple of things that worried me a little but going slow and applying a little common sense should see you through it just fine.


An example is when pulling the light engine tray out my first instinct was to use a can of air to clean out from underneath/behind it. That would have sent dust up into the upper cabinet. Ok so I then grabbed a vacuum instead and was very careful.


I carried it over to the kitchen table to work (the metal has sharp edges on the bottom so get a placemat under it and watch your fingers). I followed a YouTube vid posted on here then noticed there are several of these videos. You could probably locate one specifically for your set. I found one that was very close and was close enough.


The rest was cake really. The only thing to really watch out for is dust on the lens or on the chip. I use a very bright (450 lumen cree LED) flashlight to look for any dust on the chip. This is very hard to see and worse if your eyes aren't that great. Just try different angles and you'll see them. My chip came out of the package with what looks like smudges on it and a little dust. I used a lint free microfiber and can of air to make it perfect before assembly. I then did the same with the lens.


I took this moment to open up the top cover to the large heatsink that cools the LEDs and to clean out the dust. 80% of what dust I had what on this heatsink.


Putting it back together was simple until I notice a socket on the formatter board and no cable. I couldn't remember it there was something plugged into it. After a little research online I located enough pictures to see that nothing goes there (the one just below the three fan sockets).


The quality of the picture afterward was astounding! I read here of an improvement but I was not prepared for just how drastic it was. The blacks were shockingly very black. How do I possibly describe it other than I don't think any other technology has a deeper black. That's how black it was and my new picture was glorious. Other than higher contrast from newer sets adding some "pop" to the image this six year old set can hold its own just fine. I hope to never have to replace it. It's just that good and I had forgotten just how good it is.


If this doesn't sound like yours then maybe a quick $200 will change your mind.


Many thanks to all that have posted so much useful information!


Drew

Soon...pic of my measly setup
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post #2792 of 2810 Old 10-17-2015, 01:01 AM
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I got the dreaded white dot problem (see red circles in attached picture) since a couple of months ago and now it's multiplied into about three dozens.

Before I go ahead to order the DMD chip, I am wondering if anyone knows or has the same "dark bar" problem on your sets?

Basically on the left edge of my screen there is a dark band that is really obvious (see attached picture). I don't think this is related to the white dot DMD chip problem, or is it?

Does anyone know what could be causing this dark band? More importantly, is this user fixable?
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post #2793 of 2810 Old 10-17-2015, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by avsscientist View Post
I got the dreaded white dot problem (see red circles in attached picture) since a couple of months ago and now it's multiplied into about three dozens.

Before I go ahead to order the DMD chip, I am wondering if anyone knows or has the same "dark bar" problem on your sets?

Basically on the left edge of my screen there is a dark band that is really obvious (see attached picture). I don't think this is related to the white dot DMD chip problem, or is it?

Does anyone know what could be causing this dark band? More importantly, is this user fixable?

Shadow on left of Samsung DLP screen

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post #2794 of 2810 Old 11-24-2015, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsscientist View Post
I got the dreaded white dot problem (see red circles in attached picture) since a couple of months ago and now it's multiplied into about three dozens.

Before I go ahead to order the DMD chip, I am wondering if anyone knows or has the same "dark bar" problem on your sets?

Basically on the left edge of my screen there is a dark band that is really obvious (see attached picture). I don't think this is related to the white dot DMD chip problem, or is it?

Does anyone know what could be causing this dark band? More importantly, is this user fixable?
It is not the light tunnel like on the older sets because the led TV does not have one.
The problem is easy to fix, it is just an adjustment.
There are two screws, one for up and down, the other for side to side.
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post #2795 of 2810 Old 11-24-2015, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsscientist View Post
I got the dreaded white dot problem (see red circles in attached picture) since a couple of months ago and now it's multiplied into about three dozens.

Before I go ahead to order the DMD chip, I am wondering if anyone knows or has the same "dark bar" problem on your sets?

Basically on the left edge of my screen there is a dark band that is really obvious (see attached picture). I don't think this is related to the white dot DMD chip problem, or is it?

Does anyone know what could be causing this dark band? More importantly, is this user fixable?
The bar is just an adjustment as stanman2242 said. Is that why you say DMD chip? If you just want to solve the dots problem, that's just the DLP chip. I just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago and it was a very straight forward task, no DMD replacement needed.

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post #2796 of 2810 Old 12-01-2015, 07:44 AM
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Well I tested the power from the main power board to the sub power board and it's at 330. The sub power board outputs 16v on all 3 lines. The led driver, when disconnected from the leds, outputs ~15.1v. The led driver, when connected to the leds, is outputting 0.1 - 2.5v.
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post #2797 of 2810 Old 12-12-2015, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Clark View Post
The bar is just an adjustment as stanman2242 said. Is that why you say DMD chip? If you just want to solve the dots problem, that's just the DLP chip. I just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago and it was a very straight forward task, no DMD replacement needed.

There is no such thing as a "DLP chip". The chip is a DMD chip. DMD stands for Digital Micromirror Device. http://clifton.mech.northwestern.edu...cromirror3.pdf


One replaces the DMD chip in a DLP television. DLP is short for Digital Light Projection.
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post #2798 of 2810 Old 12-13-2015, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
There is no such thing as a "DLP chip". The chip is a DMD chip. DMD stands for Digital Micromirror Device. http://clifton.mech.northwestern.edu...cromirror3.pdf


One replaces the DMD chip in a DLP television. DLP is short for Digital Light Projection.
Thank you for the clarification. I was wondering...there are two chips in this set?
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post #2799 of 2810 Old 12-13-2015, 09:09 PM
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Thank you for the clarification. I was wondering...there are two chips in this set?

One DMD chip.
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post #2800 of 2810 Old 12-17-2015, 01:01 AM
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I replaced my chip and it was night and day difference. Fixed the white dot issues and colors are so vibrant again. Used thermal paste. Hopefully will get another 7+ years.
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post #2801 of 2810 Old 12-29-2015, 12:23 AM
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Got my first dot Nov 2, now I estimate I have over 200, black and white

Samsung naturally refused me, now I'm a bit torn between fixing this set for $200 or just dropping $500 on a smaller but new set entirely. "only" 11000 hours on the LEDs according to service menu.

Which chip is everyone using from shopjimmy - 2 are listed as compatible. Do I need to open the set first to determine?
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post #2802 of 2810 Old 01-11-2016, 08:13 PM
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Got my first dot Nov 2, now I estimate I have over 200, black and white

Samsung naturally refused me, now I'm a bit torn between fixing this set for $200 or just dropping $500 on a smaller but new set entirely. "only" 11000 hours on the LEDs according to service menu.

Which chip is everyone using from shopjimmy - 2 are listed as compatible. Do I need to open the set first to determine?
Preston, if you're still debating on this, just get the 4719-001997 chip. It's clearly the correct one and worked perfectly in my new-to-me HL67A750.

Good luck,

Mike
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post #2803 of 2810 Old 01-16-2016, 07:06 PM
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Resale value?

I just upgraded to a new Samsung 8500 today and was wondering if my old Samsung HL67A750 has any value on the resale market whatsoever. It has zero issues and looks flawless in my opinion. Would I be laughed at if I offered it up for $300? Is that high? Is that low? Should I just toss it? Thanks!!!
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post #2804 of 2810 Old 01-16-2016, 07:13 PM
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I just upgraded to a new Samsung 8500 today and was wondering if my old Samsung HL67A750 has any value on the resale market whatsoever. It has zero issues and looks flawless in my opinion. Would I be laughed at if I offered it up for $300? Is that high? Is that low? Should I just toss it? Thanks!!!
That is a very realistic price although I do not know about your area as far as demand.
I have bough three of them in past 6 months for $250.00 and a couple that I had offered
that same amount were bought by someone else at a higher price.
People always want to get it for less than your asking price so you might try $325.00.
What part of country are you in?
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post #2805 of 2810 Old 01-16-2016, 07:23 PM
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That is a very realistic price although I do not know about your area as far as demand.
I have bough three of them in past 6 months for $250.00 and a couple that I had offered
that same amount were bought by someone else at a higher price.
People always want to get it for less than your asking price so you might try $325.00.
What part of country are you in?
SE Michigan area. No, not Detroit Craigslist my best option?
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post #2806 of 2810 Old 01-16-2016, 07:29 PM
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SE Michigan area. No, not Detroit Craigslist my best option?
I am in the DC area. I buy all mine from CL.
If you do not get any buyers from CL I would be interested in buying the guts but you
would have to take them out and dispose of the case.
When I buy one I throw it in the back of my outback wagon and then pull the guts out
at work and throw case in dumpster.
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post #2807 of 2810 Old 01-16-2016, 07:40 PM
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I am in the DC area. I buy all mine from CL.
If you do not get any buyers from CL I would be interested in buying the guts but you
would have to take them out and dispose of the case.
When I buy one I throw it in the back of my outback wagon and then pull the guts out
at work and throw case in dumpster.
Thanks. I'll try the CL option first. PM me so I have your info in case I go the route you want
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Originally Posted by Drew888 View Post
I'm sure a call to shopjimmy.com could help.


So after rediscovering this thread again I purchased a DMD chip and installed it yesterday. There were a couple of things that worried me a little but going slow and applying a little common sense should see you through it just fine.


An example is when pulling the light engine tray out my first instinct was to use a can of air to clean out from underneath/behind it. That would have sent dust up into the upper cabinet. Ok so I then grabbed a vacuum instead and was very careful.


I carried it over to the kitchen table to work (the metal has sharp edges on the bottom so get a placemat under it and watch your fingers). I followed a YouTube vid posted on here then noticed there are several of these videos. You could probably locate one specifically for your set. I found one that was very close and was close enough.


The rest was cake really. The only thing to really watch out for is dust on the lens or on the chip. I use a very bright (450 lumen cree LED) flashlight to look for any dust on the chip. This is very hard to see and worse if your eyes aren't that great. Just try different angles and you'll see them. My chip came out of the package with what looks like smudges on it and a little dust. I used a lint free microfiber and can of air to make it perfect before assembly. I then did the same with the lens.


I took this moment to open up the top cover to the large heatsink that cools the LEDs and to clean out the dust. 80% of what dust I had what on this heatsink.


Putting it back together was simple until I notice a socket on the formatter board and no cable. I couldn't remember it there was something plugged into it. After a little research online I located enough pictures to see that nothing goes there (the one just below the three fan sockets).


The quality of the picture afterward was astounding! I read here of an improvement but I was not prepared for just how drastic it was. The blacks were shockingly very black. How do I possibly describe it other than I don't think any other technology has a deeper black. That's how black it was and my new picture was glorious. Other than higher contrast from newer sets adding some "pop" to the image this six year old set can hold its own just fine. I hope to never have to replace it. It's just that good and I had forgotten just how good it is.


If this doesn't sound like yours then maybe a quick $200 will change your mind.


Many thanks to all that have posted so much useful information!


Drew
I had my HL67A750 for over 6 years before the first white dot appeared in April 2015. in four months it multipied to about 2 dozen dots. I did my research and then bought the shopjimmy DMD 1910-6143 chip. Watched a number of youtube videos to be sure what I was doing would be right. Ended up using the opportunity to vacuum up dust wherever I could and around the color fins. Made sure I took pictures before doing every step-that was invaluable. All went well. Maybe two easy hours. More time thinking the process through. The change in video quality was wonderful. I located the contrast adjustment wheel, but it was very hard to try to rotate so I left it alone. Made other adjustments. Glad I did te DMD switchout. Does anyone have any experience adjusting the contrast wheel? Or a recommendation whether to even try to adjust it manually? Thanks. Great forum.
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post #2809 of 2810 Old 01-20-2016, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewster98 View Post
I just upgraded to a new Samsung 8500 today and was wondering if my old Samsung HL67A750 has any value on the resale market whatsoever. It has zero issues and looks flawless in my opinion. Would I be laughed at if I offered it up for $300? Is that high? Is that low? Should I just toss it? Thanks!!!
I don't think $300 is high at all. The 67" screen is way bigger than most people have and it's an incredible set. My inclinations towards 4k have been metered by a lack of content and the knowledge that prices will keep dropping, and part of the reason I can resist is the set just kicks ass for 1080p!

I bet you have a friend who has seen it who would be thrilled to give you $300 to replace their smaller HDTV.
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post #2810 of 2810 Old 01-20-2016, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewster98 View Post
I just upgraded to a new Samsung 8500 today and was wondering if my old Samsung HL67A750 has any value on the resale market whatsoever. It has zero issues and looks flawless in my opinion. Would I be laughed at if I offered it up for $300? Is that high? Is that low? Should I just toss it? Thanks!!!
I gladly paid $500 for a refurbished HL67A750 to hold me over until I buy a 4K set later this year.
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