Detailed guide to replacing the color wheel in a Samsung HL-R6168W w/photos! - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 48 Old 08-20-2009, 09:04 PM
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Got it!! After 3 hours of slowly digging out the fragments of the old connector, the new one went in like a snap. New color wheel is working great, and is so much quieter I probably would have changed it before failure if I had known.

An interesting point. My color wheel did not fragment like so many others. What I found is a piece of epoxy (that's what it looked like - like amber glue) that was about half an inch long in the color wheel enclosure. I'm guessing this had somehow impacted the color wheel until the berring (sp) went bad. It made all of the bad noises before failure that people have said except for the shattering.

Thanks to all for posting their experiences. On Monday the SS repair people come out to fix the light tunnel. I had to have the TV working in time for them.

Dave
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post #32 of 48 Old 12-14-2009, 09:10 AM
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[quote=GeekGirl;16890489]Has anyone who's replaced the color wheel done anything in the service menu besides adjusting the index delay?


Geek Girl, did you get an efficient way to adjust the color wheel? I have the same issues.
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post #33 of 48 Old 05-27-2010, 09:18 PM
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Sorry to necro this thread but I could use some help. Followed all the instructions, but the new color wheel doesn't seem to be spinning up. When I go to turn it on after I replaced it the lamp light flashes like normal, I hear the start sound but the tv doesn't come on. Then all three lights on the front (lamp, timer and stand by/heat) flash and nothing happens after that.

I checked the copper color wire and made sure the side with the contacts faced the internal contacts on the connector. Don't want to have to pay someone to come out and look at it for me.

Thanks.
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post #34 of 48 Old 06-12-2010, 04:16 PM
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Hey Doormat, I just last weekend replaced the color wheel in my HLR6768WX. I had the exact same problem you describe above. I went back in and examined my installation only to find I'd gotten the color wheel tilted just enough so that it was touching the entrance to the light tunnel. It couldn't spin up due to being stuck against that assembly. I loosend everything back up and repositioned. Got everything back together and luckily, everything worked. I DID have to adjust my index delay. Went from an original setting of 59 all the way to a new setting of 43. Seems large to me but hey, the picture looks great now. I also just today installed a new lamp. Now my picture looks as good as new again.

These Samsungs have a great picture. Too bad they're so prone to fail mechanically. This forum has saved me a lot of money. With this latest color wheel problem along with the light tunnel back then, I figure I've saved at LEAST a grand. I had to do the dreaded light tunnel replacement a couple years back. What a pain. I posted the procedure I used to replace the light tunnel in another thread back then. This thread was EXCELLENT in helping me through the color wheel replacement and re-indexing. MUCH thanks to the author of the article with all the pictures.
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post #35 of 48 Old 06-15-2010, 05:13 PM
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Thanks to this thread and other similar ones I was able to determine that the color wheel on my HLR-6768W had gone bad and needed to be replaced. I attempted to do the replacement myself but ran into a few problems, namely I was having difficulty removing the LE assembly from the unit. So I bit the bullet and called a local repairman to finish the job. Good thing I did, because he also had problems getting the LE assembly out and had to clear some additional wires out of the way in order to make more room. Anyway, the color wheel was replaced and I crossed my fingers that all was well.

Unfortunately that was not the case. Though the new color wheel seems to work fine as is super quiet, I immediately noticed the dreaded shadowing problem...in my case it's a 2-3 inch shadow all along the left side of the screen. I guess I wasn't totally surprised, because it sounds like others have experience the same issue after a color wheel replacement and ended up having to replace the light tunnel. But what I don't fully understand is - why does a shattered color wheel cause a problem with the light tunnel? Is it because fragments of the color wheel fly off and end up damaging the light tunnel? I definitely did not have any shadowing problem prior to the color wheel problem, so I know that the two problems are related.

I also read that Samsung has stepped up and has agreed to extend the warranty to include light tunnel replacements for some of these older models. Does anyone know if that would still apply to a nearly 5-year old HLR-6768W? And finally...during the first couple of years that I owned the set I ran into a similar shadowing problem and Samsung ended up replacing the entire LE...this was before they realized that the issue was solely with the light tunnel. If by chance Samsung is still extending the warranty for units such as mine, is the fact that they've already replaced my LE to address this problem going to raise a red flag?

Thanks again for all your help!

Bob
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post #36 of 48 Old 06-20-2010, 09:44 PM
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Hey my HL-R6168 started same issue as everyone else and I found this DLP TV Class Action Settlement which included ALL HL-P, HL-R and HL-S models related to light tunnel issues!

www dot samsung dot com/us/dlptvsettlement/

Settlement Notice:
www dot samsung dot com/us/dlptvsettlement/Class%20Action%20Settlement%20Notice.pdf

Settlement Agreement:
www dot samsung dot com/us/dlptvsettlement/settlement%20agreement.pdf

Claim Form:
www dot samsung dot com/us/dlptvsettlement/CLAIM%20FORM.pdf
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post #37 of 48 Old 06-30-2010, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vishuslee View Post

about a month ago, my hlr5678 made a noise and stopped working. When trying to power it up, I heard a loud humming noise. After speaking with Samsung, they suggested I replace the ballast, which I did. That did not resolve the problem. So I ordered a new lamp from thepartstore.com, and that did not resolve the issue... then I found you guys. The last piece to replace was the colorwheel, and I was able to order one of those for cheap on e-bay. When I got into the machine last night, the old colorwheel had shattered, much like the pictures in this thread. I replaced it without issue.

Now, the buzzing noise is gone, but the tv still does not work. When I try to power it up, the lamp light on the power button flashes 16 times and then the tv clicks, the stand-by/temp light flashes once, and then the lamp light flashes another 16 times.

I replaced the new lamp with the old lamp and put in the old ballast, but to the same results. Did I do something wrong?

I recently had the color wheel replaced by a technician. Subsequently, we turned it on and everything seemed fine (no picture issues). The next day my wife turns the TV on and she gets no picture. Just like the above, the TV does not turn and we get the same 16 flashes but I can hear the color wheel spinning up then shutting down then repeating about three times before all lights are blinking on the TV. Any ideas before I call back the tech?

Thanks
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post #38 of 48 Old 07-17-2010, 07:00 AM
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Ordered the part off of eBay and using this thread successfully changed the color wheel on my HL-R7178WX screen. Two ginormous thumbs up on this thread.

My set had of late started emitting a humming noise consistent with high speed rotational vibrations. The screen never looked wrong, and knowing the DLP fairly well I concluded it the only thing that could be making such a noise was the color wheel, the sound was far too "vibrant" to be a fan. Finally one day - no sound, but no nothing. Set would cycle a few times and then all the lights on the power switch would blink.

So, I got the wheel, and using these directions, replaced it successfully. I was worried about the color wheel mount in that loose rubber surround - that's a design flaw of the first order. The first time I turned it on, I thought it didn't work - it was SO QUIET. I had forgotten how quiet it was supposed to be. But the picture came up, and no shadows. I haven't gone in to mess with the color timing - hard to tell if I have a problem, sometimes it looks like washed out color faces, but that's normally an SD source with questionable quality. HD images are perfect.

When I replaced the wheel, I noticed a piece of hardened plastic in the wheel well - the wheel itself was intact, but this detached plastic looked to be part of what balanced the wheel. I figure it broke off, which unbalanced the wheel, which simply wore the motor down over time. The wheel spun fairly freely when out, but with a noticeable grind - the new wheel did NOT spin very freely, but was smooth and made no noise.

Again, this thread was an enormous help, thanks to the OP for a great guide that got my TV fixed for $100...
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post #39 of 48 Old 12-20-2010, 12:24 AM
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A big thumbs up to the OP - this thread was fantastic! I have an HL-R5668 (56"), and these directions were far more applicable than anything else online. My symptoms: loud hum when I started up the TV, and it would shut off about 5-10 seconds after I shut the TV off. Since it shut off that quickly, I assumed it was the color wheel and not the fan (I'm glad it wasn't the ballast).

The only difference was since the 56" is a bit more compact than the 61", I had to pull out the A/V Jack section on the left as well in order to get the light engine out. I found that I definitely wanted to completely disconnect the light engine - I carried it into another room and set it on a desk to do the delicate color wheel removal. No sign of damage, but once I put the new one in and put it back together, the set is as good as new.

The tip that helped me most? To take pictures every step of the way - if I ever doubted myself on a connection, I had pictures to show exact orientation, location, etc.

It was a bit tricky, but if you're handy and the directions don't look overwhelming, you're probably in good shape.
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post #40 of 48 Old 12-23-2010, 04:03 PM
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Thanks for the instructions! They worked, but I've had a problem since I replaced the color wheel:

My TV image will "pulse" at random intervals. On average, about once every 30 seconds the screen will become brighter for one flicker, then return to normal. This never occurred with the old color wheel, but with the image problems occurring at random intervals, I don't think it's a simple bad color wheel issue, and it's not the violent flickering I've seen in some videos. Any ideas before I tear everything apart and send the new part back? Thanks.
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post #41 of 48 Old 02-01-2011, 06:19 AM
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I'm not experiencing any picture issues, but I do hear a buzzing/vibration noise that seems to rise and fall. After a while last night, the noise went away. Was this the same noise you all were hearing when your color wheel went out?
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post #42 of 48 Old 08-19-2011, 09:14 PM
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I had the same experience. I first removed the whole assembly from the TV. This is a simple matter of disconnecting a few more connectors. It gives you the ability to work with proper light and access it from all sides. I highly recommend everyone do this from the get-go, as it is easier and safer.

As to the fragments of the connector, I studied it very carefully with bright light and magnification. It simply pulls out straight, but in my case the wires pulled out and the connector fragmented. I wound up picking it apart with dental tools and fine needle-nose pliers. It took a while but I finally got it out. Whew!
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post #43 of 48 Old 01-08-2012, 12:36 PM
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Just replaced my color wheel using these directions in about an hour. I also recommend removing the entire LE and performing the swap at a table where there is good light. I was successful in removing the tiny white clip with a very small flat head screwdriver by prying up from the short sides where the plastic is stronger. Thanks Again!
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post #44 of 48 Old 07-25-2012, 07:17 PM
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Thank you for the informative tutorial and photos,armed with this information I am now able to completely remove the light engine in just a matter of minutes! Upon removal of the color wheel my suspicions were confirmed,it had self destructed. The ballast was also testing bad using a method I found elsewhere,I was not pleased with this method so I decided to experiment a little before purchasing a part that i did not need. After reading that the wheel needs to spin up completely to 9000 rpm before sending 5v to fire the ballast I figured why not remove all the remaining glass from the wheel thus allowing it to spin balanced. The outcome was as I had hoped and the ballast fired the lamp! The set (which I was given by a friend) is now working though only in black and white....I'll update when the new wheel arrives and I get it installed:)
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post #45 of 48 Old 01-15-2013, 08:04 PM
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Thanks Yu
that's very difficult task
but very helpful
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post #46 of 48 Old 08-05-2013, 03:16 PM
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Thanks to the OP for all the pics/instructions. Replaced mine with no problems(HL-R6167WAX/XAA & L6 chassis). If your going to clean out all the dust, do it BEFORE you remove the LE chassis, as you don't want any dust inside the back where the lens and rear of the screen. Cleaned the dust with an air compressor turned down to about 15-20 psi B4 I pulled the chassis out. Also used a camera lens brush and LIGHTLY brushed the thin layer of dust off the projector lens. Also make sure you get the chassis back into place just where it was B4 you pulled it out. (That lens has to align to the screen) Also, to help the install of the new Color wheel, I used a q-tip and applied a VERY SMALL amount of silicone oil to the rubber seal that the color wheel slides down on, and as the OP stated, it's critical that you ease it down into place and make sure it's all the way down on both sides B4 you install/tighten the 2 screws.
FYI: I'm still using the original lamp, which has 8993 hours on it in the service menu.

HD since Sept 2005
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post #47 of 48 Old 02-16-2014, 03:01 PM
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Here's a link to a youtube video after I replaced a color wheel. What could be making this sound?Thanks in advance for your help. Terri
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post #48 of 48 Old 10-25-2014, 04:57 PM
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The original posts in this thread are EXTREMELY helpful in replacing the color wheel and other parts in a Samsung DLP HLR6178W. The procedure I used is altered slightly from the initial postings since it was a "while I have the LE out, I may as well replace a few more things in this 9+ year old DLP" This posting supplements the earlier info. Of course, if the parts in a set have not failed, then it is optional to replace them. But depending on the age and condition of the unit, it may be easier to replace some things more likely to fail than not, while the unit is already disassembled.
How did the DLP fail?
The Samsung HLR6178 DLP failed on power up with a brief grinding sound, followed by a loud pop, then the picture went black and white. I had heard a slight irregular sound a day earlier but it cleared up shortly after full power on. After the pop, the DLP functioned with black and white picture. With this symptom, I concluded, based on all the postings about this type of failure, that the color wheel had disintegrated but the motor was still spinning to speed which allowed the unit to light the LAMP and function in B/W mode. If the motor had gotten stuck, then the LAMP would not light and the red indicators on the front would have been flashing.

Standard Repair Warnings:
  1. The DLP bulb is a "user / consumer replaceable" unit.
  2. The ballast, fans, color wheel and other internal parts are not "consumer / user replaceable" units.
  3. Any warranties and service contracts may be voided if seals are broken.
  4. Dangerous voltages, sharp edges and other hazard exists inside these DLP units.
  5. High voltages remain in capacitors even after the unit is powered off!
  6. The unit may be damaged further in the course of repairing it.
  7. Service should be performed by trained, qualified technicians.
  8. Proceed at your own risk!

How I replaced my color wheel, DMD Fan, UHP/DLP Bulb fan, Digital Fan, and generally cleaned the DLP

  1. Because the DLP LE had been replaced about 7 years ago for the light-tunnel failure, before ordering parts, I needed to confirm EXACTLY which LE was actually installed. Also, there are L3 and L6 LE which do not have fully interchangeable parts! (Google around if you need to know more). There are also reports where the original LE may have been replaced on a repair with valid substitute. In my case, the repair tech installed an L6 LE for a 50" set vs. the L6 LE for the 61" set. However, these are fully interchangeable parts and valid subs as far as I can tell - same parts, same bulbs, same model year, etc..
  2. After confirming I had an L6 LE, I decided on the parts I was going to replace. I ordered those parts from Samsungparts.com. They were stocked and arrived promptly.
  3. Followed the earlier postings for disassembling and removing the LE.
  4. Once removed, cover the main lens with a plastic bag and rubber band to keep dust being generated while working on the LE off the lens!
  5. I very carefully vacuumed the dust from around the LE - being careful not to contact any of the circuit boards, lens, housing, etc..
  6. Remove the UHP bulb and set it aside as used parts.
  7. Replacing the DMD fan:
    1. Removing the DMD fan is simple - 2 screws release the fan from heat sink. Release the 12V power cable from the fan control board. Then remove the two screws from the fan which hold the fan to the fan's bracket. Reverse to re-assemble.
    2. Note the orientation of the DMD fan! My fan is blowing air TOWARD the DMD heat sink. The old fan had orientation arrows on the body, the new fan did NOT. So, I assumed the label side of the fan was the correct way to orient the replacement fan with the label side closest to the DMD fins.
    3. Do not over tighten any screws!
  8. Removed the two screws holding the cover / air baffle for the color wheel.
    1. Warning! There is fragile insulating material on the underside of this baffle and in my case, simply touching or trying to vacuum the dust away caused the material to literally fall apart!
  9. With the UHP lamp removed earlier, I disassembled the fan baffling (3 screws) and popped off the top of the baffle. I was then able to remove the bulb fan and thoroughly vacuum its baffling area.
    1. Note the orientation of this fan has air blowing toward the bulb and out the rear of the TV.
  10. Replace the UHP blub ballast by removing the two screws holding the ballast tray and slide out the ballast tray. Do not handle the ballast. High voltages may be present.
    1. Remove the 3 screws holding the ballast circuit board to the ballast tray as well as the power cable connector for the UHP lamp.
    2. Remove the ballast board and replaced it with the new ballast board.
    3. Transfer the small high voltage (white) cable (red) separator from the old ballast to the new ballast. This little separator, while it seems unimportant, actually is designed to keep the high voltage cables apart. There was not one included with the new ballast.
    4. Do not reinstall the ballast now, wait until after the color wheel is installed.
  11. Removed the cables for the color wheel and then removed the color wheel. In my case the wheel was completely shattered which is why my set still worked, only in black/white. IMO, by removing the bulb's cooling baffle, since I was replacing the fan, that made replacing the color wheel easier. I could see more of what I was doing and it allowed me to thoroughly clean the entire baffle and cooling housing!
    1. Note carefully on removal ALL the gaskets around the color wheel's casing. Be sure these are reseated perfectly before installing the new wheel. There are pin guides around the gasket to aid in seating the gaskets.
    2. Carefully vacuum ALL the glass shards from the wheel cavity - multiple times. I also used canned air to blow out the chamber as the last thing we want is any dust or glass shards adhering to the new color wheel throwing it off balance.
    3. Note exactly how the gaskets mate to the surface seat them well.
    4. Carefully lower the new color wheel into its space. I found that by being positioned directly over the LE, that allowed me to see and avoid bumping the color wheel against the housing.
    5. Reassemble the cooling baffle and reposition the fan with the correct orientation. Thread the power cord thru the small hole provided in the baffle. This fan exhaust toward the the lamp. Reinstall the 3 screws to seal the baffle. Route and reconnect the UHP fan cable to the fan control board.
    6. Then, I performed minor surgery on the color wheel air baffle. I used 3M metal tape to carefully seal in all of the material on the underside of this air baffle. When gently shaking the air baffle cover over the trash can parts of this material were falling and flying everywhere. By using the 3M tape to seal in the material, I think i solved this problem while preserving the air flow provided by the air baffle over the color wheel fins. If I had not done this, the material would scattered all over the color wheel and would have made a mess!
  12. While the LE was out, I vacuumed the LE area as well as carefully around the main power supply board. I was very careful not to touch any circuit boards with the vacuum. I checked the power supply caps for leaking or bulging and luckily did not find any. This was the one board I decided not to replace at this time.
  13. Reassembled the unit in reverse per the instructions above.
  14. Installed a new Phillips UHP bulb and put the old one in the box. There was no problem w/ my 9 year old bulb, it was bright and had no lighting issues but I figured -> 9+ years, it does not owe me.
  15. Before installing the LE, I also vacuumed around the opening in screen cavity.
  16. Before installing the LE, I also used canned air to carefully blow any debris off the main lens.
  17. While behind the DLP, I noticed the very small cooling fan for the Digital Input board, which is located on top of the cable card input slot, had stopped spinning! I did not notice this when I first diagnosed the issues or I would have ordered the replacement fan with all the other parts.
    1. I have learned in the past few days that this small fan ONLY runs IF there is a cable card installed in the CC slot. "The Fan between the digital and analog boards is only used to cool the Cable Card, and they do run hot. Without a cable card inserted the fan is off."
    2. My fan is not defective and does not need to be replaced. I thought this small fan may have been a thermal exhaust from the digital board, that is not its purpose.
  18. FWIW, I suggest replacing all the fans, "while at it" if they are this old. I will order a replacement fan, it is a simple replacement to keep the digital board cool. In the meantime, I placed a 12v fan with an external power supply near the input boards to keep that digital board cool.
  19. Because I replaced these multiple parts, took my time, referred to these posting, snapped photos along the way, it took about 3 hours to remove, replace and then reinstall these parts. I had ordered all parts in advance from Samsung Parts to minimize the downtime - except for the digital fan.
  20. Once powered on, the beautiful color picture returned.
  21. I have not entered the service menu yet to make any adjustments as the colors look fine but I will check them and reset the LAMP hours. There are several youtube vids covering how to do most of this.
  22. Hopefully, this thread will help keep a few more DLP sets running and out of the dumps for another few years! I cannot tell you how many I've seen sitting in recycling the past few years!
  23. I've posted the photos below which cover some of the changes I needed.
  24. Update 29 Oct 2014 - I entered the Service Menu and my bulb had 18,000 hours on it! I reset it. I have made no other adjustments to the Service Menu so far.. the picture looks perfect.
  25. Peace
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Last edited by gattaca; 10-29-2014 at 06:37 PM. Reason: added steps and photos
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