Detailed guide to replacing the color wheel in a Samsung HL-R6168W w/photos! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 47 Old 07-20-2008, 12:24 AM - Thread Starter
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My early build (June 2005) HL-R6168W blew its color wheel several weeks ago and I was thiiiis close to buying a Aquos 65 LCD to replace it before checking on AVS Forum and finding instructions on how to replace the wheel. Doing the repair yourself will take approximately 1-1.5 hours and save $300-500 in labor charges for a technician repair.

When my wheel went, I did not hear the pop/bang/knock others have described. Rather, the left side of the image began to get wavy, and then I started hearing what sounded like the turbofan of a jet engine. I turned off the TV but the sound persisted for a while before stopping. I don't know if the image changed any more since I'm afraid to leave the TV on long enough for the lamp to warm up since the spinning/whining/grinding sound is so loud. In any case, after some reading on the forums I ordered a replacement color wheel, part #BP96-01103A, from partstore.com for $103 plus overnight shipping.

I am not sure how closely this procedure will apply to any other R**68W models but they should be quite similar. You do not, by the way, need the service manual for this repair; in fact, most reports are that the manual is useless for this procedure.

List of tools:
  • Phillips screwdrivers, preferably with magnetized tips; powered screwdriver makes this an even quicker repair
  • Jewelers screwdriver (one of those small ones for eyeglasses, etc)
  • Flashlight
  • Vacuum/Swiffer dust cloth/compressed air for dust
During the repair instructions, orientation is fixed from behind the TV where you'll be sitting, so left means towards the AV inputs, and right means closer to the lamp.
  1. Unplug power and all cables attached to the TV. It may be helpful to label each cable with tape to make reattaching easier.

  2. Remove the back panel. There is a small panel inset into the large back panel which spans the entire width of the TV. That is for lamp replacement and doesn't need to be removed as it comes out with the back panel. There are 14 screws to be removed and then you can pull the back panel straight out (no need to tilt it).


  3. You'll see three major components now. You'll be working with the middle one with the fan attached to it, the light engine (LE). On the left is the AV input unit. On the right is the lamp (which does not need to be removed for this procedure).


  4. The goal now is to pull the LE straight out. There are 4 screws to remove, 2 of them are on a shiny bracket on the right. The one in the middle of the second photo was pretty tight in my set.




  5. There is a connector that I have placed an arrow on. This is attached on the other end in the AV input unit on the left. It is not necessary to detach this, but if you do, you will be able to pull the entire LE out. I left it on; if you're careful, you can still pull the LE out enough to easily perform the replacement.


  6. This connector is on the right. It does have to be disconnected.


  7. There is a DVI cable attached to the AV unit that needs to be disconnected. Leave the end attached to the LE on.


  8. There is cabling along the top and right side of the LE that needs to be pulled out of the routing clips so that there is room to pull out the LE.




  9. You can now pull the LE straight out. It rests between two metal rails. Also see below for a warning.


  10. This is the DLP lens assembly if you've never seen it. In front of it there is an angled plastic shield. Careful not to bend it as you pull the LE out. To the right of the lens is a black plastic shield. Mine had a label on it indicating it contained the color wheel. There are two small brass screws holding it in place. Remove these and keep them separate as the color wheel is held in by other brass screws that are different.


  11. This is the color wheel underneath the shield. There are two more brass screws to be removed, marked with arrows.


  12. Before you can remove the color wheel, you need to disconnect two connectors. The first is a copper ribbon which can simply be pulled out. The second is a gray-gray-blue wired connector which is possibly the most difficult step of this process. It needs to be pried out with a jewelers screwdriver or tweezers or whatever else you have on hand. Don't pull directly on the wires, it could break, leaving the connector stuck.


  13. Pull the color wheel vertically out. Be careful with the rubber surround on the right of the color wheel; part of it needs to be reused. Part of it can be thrown away, as your new color wheel should come with some rubber (the black strip in the middle of the unit on the right below). As you can see from my photo, one section of the color pie did indeed shatter.


  14. This is the wheel well. Inside you will probably find tiny bits of colored glass. Try to get it all out with one of those tiny vacuums, a piece of Swiffer, or perhaps some tape attached to a pen.


  15. This is the wheel well shot from the left to the right. The blue arrows indicate the rubber surround that should be left. The yellow arrow points at some more rubber in which there is two holes: One is for one of the brass screws, the other is for a pin that is in the color wheel unit. There is a similar setup on the other side of the well. One poster previously noted that his unit did not have this hole and therefore he had to drill out the pin that was in his new color wheel. I did not have this problem.


  16. The second most difficult step in this process is getting the color wheel back in. The reason is that the well is quite tight and I was afraid of scraping the wheel. I found that the easiest way was to peer into the well from the front, rather than from the top. From the front, there is a crack through which you can see how the wheel is lining up with the rubber surround on the right side of the well. By the way, if you're afraid of getting finger oils onto the wheel, you could wear disposable gloves to do this step; I did not find it necessary.

  17. All done! Just put all the screws back in, plug the two connectors back, and reroute the cables back into the clips. Don't turn on the TV until the back panel is firmly in as the TV won't stay on if the lens unit cover is not firmly in (as a safety feature).

  18. You may need to adjust the index delay after the replacement. You will be able to tell because you may see strange color banding in any scenes that have colors close, but not quite the same, in tone. This is usually most obvious in face skin tones (i.e. clay faces). If you need to adjust index delay, turn off the set, wait for the lamp to cool down, then hit mute-1-8-2-power in succession. The set should turn on with the service menu popping up eventually on the left. I don't remember which submenu index delay is under, but find it and usually it will need to be lowered. I believe mine started out in the mid-50's and had to be lowered to 47. These numbers are different for each Samsung model, so just adjust until the picture is pleasing to your eye. By the way, the supposed correct way to do this is to make the reddish part of the test color bar appear the most saturated, if you have a color calibration device.

Epilogue: New color wheel worked great and was waaaay quieter than the old one, which was nearly as loud as my Xbox 360's fans. On the downside, I also immediately noticed that I now had the dreaded shadow problem, with a 1-1.5 inch shadow on the left and a 0.25 inch shadow on the right. I don't know if messing with the LE caused the problem, but others have also reported having the shadow problem after having the color wheel changed (even by a service technician). I was very careful with the LE and did not bump it much. I called the ECR number (800-522-7341) and they agreed to cover the repair if it did indeed turn out to be a light tunnel problem. Of course, there was no way I was going to mention that I had just replaced the color wheel myself. It took a couple more weeks, but now the set is back to looking new!
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post #2 of 47 Old 07-25-2008, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Yu View Post

I also immediately noticed that I now had the dreaded shadow problem, with a 1-1.5 inch shadow on the left and a 0.25 inch shadow on the right. I don't know if messing with the LE caused the problem, but others have also reported having the shadow problem after having the color wheel changed (even by a service technician). I was very careful with the LE and did not bump it much. I called the ECR number (800-522-7341) and they agreed to cover the repair if it did indeed turn out to be a light tunnel problem. Of course, there was no way I was going to mention that I had just replaced the color wheel myself. It took a couple more weeks, but now the set is back to looking new!

Great writeup!

Any idea what the technician did to solve the "light tunnel" problem? Was it somehow realigning the light engine, or was another part replaced?

That which may be known of God is evident within man, for God has shown it to them, so that they are without excuse. (Romans 1:19-20)
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post #3 of 47 Old 07-26-2008, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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This is covered in great detail in the "Samsung shadow" threads, but basically, they replace the tunnel itself. Actually, the technician had trouble as the new part, when place in the TV, was not aligned and the technician said it could take hours to align it correctly. So instead, he removed the tunnel from its housing and place the new tunnel in my old tunnel housing. Apparently, this way no realigning needs to be done. Shadow(s) gone!
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post #4 of 47 Old 11-01-2008, 08:23 AM
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about a month ago, my hlr5678 made a noise and stopped working. When trying to power it up, I heard a loud humming noise. After speaking with Samsung, they suggested I replace the ballast, which I did. That did not resolve the problem. So I ordered a new lamp from thepartstore.com, and that did not resolve the issue... then I found you guys. The last piece to replace was the colorwheel, and I was able to order one of those for cheap on e-bay. When I got into the machine last night, the old colorwheel had shattered, much like the pictures in this thread. I replaced it without issue.

Now, the buzzing noise is gone, but the tv still does not work. When I try to power it up, the lamp light on the power button flashes 16 times and then the tv clicks, the stand-by/temp light flashes once, and then the lamp light flashes another 16 times.

I replaced the new lamp with the old lamp and put in the old ballast, but to the same results. Did I do something wrong?
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post #5 of 47 Old 11-01-2008, 01:12 PM
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So... I took everything apart again and realized that I had put the copper wire in backwards. d'oh! Make sure you take a good look at the receiving end to make sure you are plugging the wire in correctly.

TV is working like a charm, other than a collapsing light tunnel issue. That pre-dates the color wheel problem.

I will be calling Samsung to see if I can get that issue corrected FOC.

The good news is that I now have a new ballast, new bulb, and a new color wheel. This TV should be good for a while, God willing!

Thanks for being such an awesome resource

Vish
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post #6 of 47 Old 12-18-2008, 01:46 PM
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A few nights ago, I heard a "pop" from my HLR6168 and now the thing whirrs like a jet engine, the image flickers and the color is poor. Sounds like I blew a bearing and cracked the color wheel.

My replacement color wheel arrived today and I'll attempt the repair tomorrow. I found some other instructions online, but these fit my precise model. HUGE THANKS to the OP!
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post #7 of 47 Old 12-20-2008, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cetesq View Post

A few nights ago, I heard a "pop" from my HLR6168 and now the thing whirrs like a jet engine, the image flickers and the color is poor. Sounds like I blew a bearing and cracked the color wheel.

My replacement color wheel arrived today and I'll attempt the repair tomorrow. I found some other instructions online, but these fit my precise model. HUGE THANKS to the OP!

Wow. Thanks to these instructions, replacement was VERY easy. it took about an hour with no glitches to speak of.

However, I feel like my picture is a bit grainy now, particularly with fast moving images. With similar models, I've read that the color wheel has a sticker or box insert listing the proper new calibration (CCA) settings after replacement. I did not see such a sticker on my color wheel, though I was admittedly not looking for it, and do not want to take the TV apart again on a goose chase.

Does anyone know if the BP96-01103A model color wheel has a sticker on it that would help with new CCA settings?

Also, does anyone have any advice as to how to fix this apparent new problem (short of professional calibration)?
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post #8 of 47 Old 12-30-2008, 09:26 PM
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Success! Thank you for an excellent tutorial.

I was about to buy one of the new models and leave this one for dead. It had already cost me about $800 in previous repairs. But seeing how easy it was I decided to make the repair myself. I started to order the new wheel from an online dealer, but with New Year's Day just two days away, even with overnight shipping I wouldn't get it for at least 5-6 days. So I bought one off my repair guy for full price. I figure the week (or more) of viewing pleasure is worth the extra money.

I had no problem with the gray and white wheel cable, it came right out with the most gentle of testing tugs on the wires. The damn DVI cable was what slowed me down. Impossible to get my fingers in there and it was screwed in tight. I had to use my pocketknife pliers to make a lot of 1/8th turns.

But it all worked!

~ Nonsanity
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post #9 of 47 Old 01-13-2009, 06:57 PM
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Thanks a million...or at leat $450, anyway. Your instructions are excellent!!!

I, too, was struck with a broken color wheel and this close to purchasing a new 61A750. $120 (paid for overnight shipping) and one hour later, my HL-R5668W is back to normal. Had the light tunnel replaced by Samsung (out of warranty) about six months ago and now this. Let's see how long this one lasts. The last one was within days of being three years old.

What's amazing is while this is a known problem and probably the reason Samsung abandoned the wheel, we have no recourse with Samsung. For the money, these sets have the best picture but what a pain in the rear!

Here are a couple of photos of my broken color wheel.



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post #10 of 47 Old 02-11-2009, 09:59 AM
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So when I start my 6168 sometimes it takes forever to come on. I hear a whining up and down in the tv, eventually the picture comes in but it flickers and half is there half isn't. After awhile the whole picture comes in and it is fine.

I notice that I can make it come in quicker if I change channels from hd to non-hd channels. Do you guys think this could be the color wheel? I've replaced the lamp already.

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post #11 of 47 Old 02-24-2009, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAlletto View Post

So when I start my 6168 sometimes it takes forever to come on. I hear a whining up and down in the tv, eventually the picture comes in but it flickers and half is there half isn't. After awhile the whole picture comes in and it is fine.

I notice that I can make it come in quicker if I change channels from hd to non-hd channels. Do you guys think this could be the color wheel? I've replaced the lamp already.

Hey Mike. Sounds like the same problem I had with my HL-R6768W. Push the power button, hear a spin up, spin down, spin up, spin down.. and every once in a while it would "catch" and voila, the video will appear. Doesn't happen all the time, but definitely more and more over a span of maybe 6 months. Tried changing the bulb.. brighter picture but same spin up, spin down cycle. Uually unplugging the set in the middle of the spin up/down cycle will allow the TV to turn on once it's plugged back in.

After tons of googling, got a reply on a post pretty much confirming my thoughts of it being the color wheel. Basically it said that the color wheel was having problems spinning up to speed so it wouldn't "fire up" in sync. Didn't understand the specifics but it made sense with the spinning sound. Anyways I took out the color wheel(just to make sure I could do it, before spending money on a new one)... and as I suspected with the color wheel in my hand, it wouldn't spin feely by rolling it with my finger. Saw some Youtube video(search for "Samsung Color Wheel") and a guy has a REALLY good set of visual instruction videos. I used those videos to guide me through, and at one point in his video he flicked his old color wheel and it spun freely. So I was convinced this was my problem.

I just finished installing mine now.. works GREAT!(knock on wood). No problems turning it on, and the colors are a lot brighter than before. I just need to do some service menu adjusting(googling that now) to make it perfect, but it made a huge difference. A thing to note is that my HL-R6768w did -NOT- have the jumper to remove for specifying an air bearing color wheel. I saw enough pictures on the net to know where to look in the light engine, but I'm guessing the HLRxxx68s may not have it, or need it apparently as the colors with my new wheel are nice and bright.

In short, you may be experiencing the same thing as me. I got my part from searspartsdirect.com for $94.95. Since I forced myself to become familiar with taking the tv apart, I had the new color wheel in about 20 minutes. Hope that helps, and if check out the youtube videos, you can definitely save $hundred$ by doing it yourself. It's pretty easy. Good luck!
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post #12 of 47 Old 02-25-2009, 06:13 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm tempted to take the $95 risk and attempt to replace mine.

Never mind, I had a question about the jumper but I just found the info.

Thanks again.

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post #13 of 47 Old 03-02-2009, 08:28 PM
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There must be a run on these. The wheel in my 5668 shattered last week and parts store said there is a national backorder until 3/16.
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post #14 of 47 Old 03-03-2009, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nix1x1 View Post

There must be a run on these. The wheel in my 5668 shattered last week and parts store said there is a national backorder until 3/16.

Yeah I ordered a wheel and a new light tunnel (I got 2 issues). I guess when I get the light tunnel I just do that first and the color wheel later.

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post #15 of 47 Old 03-27-2009, 02:28 PM
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Got my light tunnel and color wheel in this week from partstore. This weekend I'll be doing a little operation.

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post #16 of 47 Old 04-03-2009, 08:18 PM
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I just found this site, very helpful, now that I have to replace my color wheel have run into a problem removing the light engine on my HL-R5678 WX/XAA, got the two screws on the bottom, but where are the other two located?
Please help
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post #17 of 47 Old 04-26-2009, 10:19 AM
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HL-R5678 WX/XAA is the model and it now has a flickering white "fog" on the screen. You can see everything on the screen but this flickering is really annoying. Could it be the wheel is broken and missing a color pulse? There is no loud whirring as described and I never heard a POP but I'm not the only one who uses it. I hope someone has an answer
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post #18 of 47 Old 07-21-2009, 07:32 PM
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Just found this thread after my HL-R6768W just imploded. Heard loud crash and the sound of many tiny plastic pieces scattering inside the box. I'll use this guide to confirm a shattered color wheel. Nice photos. Thanks.

Replacement wheel is 4 weeks backorder...

Linked from: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16865665
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post #19 of 47 Old 07-22-2009, 08:29 AM
 
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There are basically 2 types of color wheel for Samsung there is a golden version and a Silver version(either you can look it up on Samsung parts.com or discount-merchant.com) and the guide that shows you how to replace it would be on fixyoudlp.com and click on guides. and look below for Samsung color wheel replacement
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post #20 of 47 Old 07-22-2009, 03:01 PM
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Great job on the documentation. I would like to replace the color wheel on my sisters hlp5663w. I want to buy the whole assembly (instead of just the wheel itself) but can't find a vendor that stocks the newer air suspension wheels. Seems to me that would be much quieter and more realiable in the long run that replacing it with the orignal ball bearing design.

Anyone know of a vendor for assembly in the newer design?
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post #21 of 47 Old 07-22-2009, 03:12 PM
 
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Well you might wanna go to samsung parts.com if you wants it with the whole assembly, or if you only want just the bare colorwheel go to discount-merchant.com for the golden version color wheel
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post #22 of 47 Old 07-22-2009, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newz54 View Post

Great job on the documentation. I would like to replace the color wheel on my sisters hlp5663w. I want to buy the whole assembly (instead of just the wheel itself) but can't find a vendor that stocks the newer air suspension wheels. Seems to me that would be much quieter and more realiable in the long run that replacing it with the orignal ball bearing design.
Anyone know of a vendor for assembly in the newer design?

I just got some help in the Samsung Owner's thread. You can probably find it from one of the sources listed here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post16867686

Shattered color wheel confirmed. A few tips for my HL-R6768W:
-There were only 12 screws, not 14 needed to remove the back cover. You don't need to remove the 2 screws on the bottom that are connected to the chassis bottom.
-The location of the color wheel was to the right of the plastic shield covering the lens, not under it.

Replacement ordered, I'll put it back together when I get the new wheel.
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post #23 of 47 Old 07-24-2009, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeekGirl View Post

Just found this thread after my HL-R6768W just imploded. Heard loud crash and the sound of many tiny plastic pieces scattering inside the box. I'll use this guide to confirm a shattered color wheel. Nice photos. Thanks.

Replacement wheel is 4 weeks backorder...

Linked from: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16865665

GeekGirl, and others that need the color wheel and don't want to be without a TV for a month:
I just ordered the wheel with Assembly for my 6168 from http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsun...1103A/New.aspx (Parts Store) and paid extra for overnight / one day shipping, sure enough had it within 24 hours, Samsung's website says nationwide back order 4 weeks.
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post #24 of 47 Old 07-24-2009, 03:40 AM
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Well Afdter reading the instructions here and watching the video on You Tube I decided to attempt this repair myself. It went well but took me a lot longer than the hour some stated. Partly because I took it all apart to confirm the color wheel was the issue. Once I saw all the shards of colored plastic in the wheel area, I ordered the part, got it in one day and then installed.

One think I learned is this set of instructions is pretty good, the one on you tube is good too as you can see how he does it. I noticed on the video he takes off more parts than he needs too.

I took out the lamp, which after I got everything together, I got nothing but blinking lights as the TV tried several times to start up. I took the back off, and started with the easiest thing to check - the lamp, apparently it wasn't quite in there all the way, mine is a very tight fit where you have to jostle it a bit, lift and rock slightly then push hard to engage it all the way. Then I tried again and back to a perfect picture, and oh how quite the TV is now.

P.S. My old wheel completely shattered, I have only 2 of the 7 colors left on the old wheel. This made for quite a bit of glass / plastic cleanup. I think the shop vac with small attachment or step down attachment worked the best, then I used painters (blue) masking tape on the end of a pen or pencil, sticky side down worked well. I also used some canned air to get some of the hidden pieces flushed out, use eye protection and make sure you cover the lens as you don't want to get that dirty.

Finally I would suggest cleaning the dust from the back of your TV and possibly the fans etc. once in a while as the guy on You Tube had a tremendous amount of dust. This can restrict airflow and cooling of the lamp and other components. I also imagine it could also create issues for you color wheel, shortening its life.

Best of luck.
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post #25 of 47 Old 07-24-2009, 07:34 PM
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Success !

Part arrived today, 2 days after I placed the order. Got it here as dealer92 (and others) suggested: http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsun...aspx?s=froogle.

Display came right up like nothing happened and... found a bunch of weird shadows at the bottom of the screen.

Back to the workbench. Pulled the color wheel and looked a bit closer. Turns out that vacuuming out the broken glass wasn't enough. I turned the light engine upside down and shook out a whole bunch of glass shards that the vacuum didn't get.

There's an access hole at the bottom of the wheel well where a lot of glass escaped and scattered underneath. I made sure that I shook it with the light tunnel pointing down in case any glass got in there.

All OK now. However, the picture looks different than before. I'll have to play with the adjustments a bit. The index delay (service menu, color wheel timing) didn't need to be changed.

Comments for the original instructions:

5. There is a connector that I have placed an arrow on. This is attached on the other end in the AV input unit on the left. Detach this cable and stow it in the A/V area.

The next connector to the right (above 61" label) connects to the front side of the light engine. It's a tight fit and if you pull out the LE, the force on the cable will try to pull the connector out. Detach the connector. When you slide out the LE, simply put it back. The problem is the adhesive cable tie on the side detaches, just stick it back on later.

The small green circuit board with the big blue switch (above "622" on the label) is the safety interlock. Push on this switch to let the unit power up when you're plugged into the main AC. However, it's easy enough to simply put the back panel on - there's enough force to keep the panel on without any screws. Don't bypass safety interlocks. 'nuff said.

7. There is a DVI cable attached to the AV unit that needs to be disconnected. Leave the end attached to the LE on. Just above the DVI cable on the A/V input wall is a plastic cable clip. Remove this clip as it will get in the way when the light engine is removed. It will come out with a little effort (and can be reinserted when done).

10. This is the DLP lens assembly if you’ve never seen it. In front of it there is an angled plastic shield. Careful not to bend it as you pull the LE out. To the right of the lens is a black plastic shield with a label on it (lower right corner in the photo). There are two small brass screws holding it in place. Remove these and keep them separate as the color wheel is held in by brass screws with a different thread type.

14. This is the wheel well. Inside you will probably find tiny bits of colored glass. Use a tiny vacuum, or a household vacuum with a narrow extension attachment and carefully vacuum the area. Be sure the rubber gasket doesn't get caught on the intake.

Remove the DVI cable that was left attached in Step 7. Place a large box or on the floor that's sealed against leaks. Or, just line the box with a plastic trashbag. Take the light engine and invert it over the box. Shake it carefully until all the little glass shards are out of the light engine. Be sure to orient the light engine with the light tunnel pointed down (lamp on the bottom) so you can shake out any glass that may have gotten inside the light tunnel.

18. Index Delay is under the Service menu, near the bottom of the list. Hit Select to enter the menu, Menu to back out.

18a. A reminder to always wait for the lamp fan to turn off before unplugging the unit. The lamp needs time to dissipate heat or it's life will be severely shortened.
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post #26 of 47 Old 07-25-2009, 08:30 AM
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Thank you GeekGirl for the updated information on the replacement of the color wheel. I think we probably have better information than the TV Tech who repairs these sets.

I'm still looking for a good price for a replacement Phillips bulb BP96-01073A (P)
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post #27 of 47 Old 07-26-2009, 09:27 AM
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Has anyone who's replaced the color wheel done anything in the service menu besides adjusting the index delay?

Someone in the Samsung HL-R owner's thread, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post16890467 , brought up the point that there may be custom calibration data unique for each color wheel. My wheel didn't come with any paperwork to indicate otherwise.

My thinking is that there has to be batch-to-batch variations in the glass, which would explain a lot of the differences I'm seeing. If it did, I'd be entering the new calibration data in the service menu somewhere.
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post #28 of 47 Old 07-27-2009, 11:25 AM
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I have just had another issue pop up with my tv. I have the dreaded shadow on the left side, but I have already bought a new light tunnel to fix that issue. I know have the entire screen flickering with small green lines going through the middle. It is transparent and makes the screen look sort of cloudy. This just started happening about two days ago. I turned off the tv and let it sit the first time and when I turned it back on everything was normal until today, it came on fine, but then the flickering started again. Could it be the bulb? I believe everything in my tv has been replaced back when they didn't know what was going on with the light tunnel, the replaced the light engine, digital board, and the analog board i think. To me it is practically new, but the light tunnel issue came back, so I am going to try and fix that myself. Any ideas on the flickering cloudy screen? Could it be the colorwheel?
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post #29 of 47 Old 07-27-2009, 02:25 PM
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The color wheel usually fails by shattering catastrophically. I'd guess a DMD problem, but you'll get better answers in the HL-R owner's thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...467#post168904

Update: Hold off on replacing the light tunnel! I'll bet you can negotiate credit for a new TV. Checkout the light tunnel replacement thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...758625&page=81 There's a special extended warranty available. See if you qualify and can work a deal, especially if you have multiple problems (which is what it sounds like).
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post #30 of 47 Old 08-20-2009, 02:19 PM
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Argg - Any advice

So, I have the color wheel out. However, when I removed it, the little connector (the one you said was delicate) basically disintegrated when I was trying to pry it up. Half of the male connector (the little white one from the color wheel) is still imbedded in the female half. It's very flimsy and small, and I can't figure out how to get it out so I can put the new connector in. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,
Dave
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