Pioneer Elite Pro-710hd...HD via Component - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 38 Old 09-17-2008, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I seem to be getting the impression that although the 710hd has two component inputs, that it can only accept HD from an HD tv receiver via VGA?
Is that right, or can it do HD over component?
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post #2 of 38 Old 09-17-2008, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-A-G-L-E-S View Post

I seem to be getting the impression that although the 710hd has two component inputs, that it can only accept HD from an HD tv receiver via VGA?
Is that right, or can it do HD over component?

I haven't had my 510HD for over four years, but as I recall, I used to feed it 1080i over component from my Dish 6000 HD satellite receiver.
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post #3 of 38 Old 09-17-2008, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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What woul be your thoughts on how the 710 stack up against the current DLP's?
This was sold to a repair shop due to a gun going out and the owner buying a new plasma instead of fixing.
They fixed the gun and are selling it for four and a half bills. Freaking huge though.
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post #4 of 38 Old 09-17-2008, 05:48 PM
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I can't imagine still watching a rear-projection CRT today. Yeah, you might get really black blacks, but in just about every other way, the newer display technologies absolutely crush even the best CRT RPTV (which IMHO was the Pioneer Elite, at least back in 2000). I've had a Pioneer Elite, two DLPs, two LCoS, and I'm on my third or fourth LCD flat panel display now, so it's not like I haven't been exposed to and lived with the different technologies.

It's probably blasphemy for me to say this in this forum, but overall I prefer my Samsung 750 series LCD to any of the RPTVs I've owned.

BTW, retail price on a 710HD was $8300 back in 2000.
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post #5 of 38 Old 09-17-2008, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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That's what I figured....this is an extra tv, not the main viewing display.
It's either ~$880 for a 42" Panny plasma or this for $450??(which would you do?)
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post #6 of 38 Old 09-18-2008, 10:59 AM
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I have to agree with jhue. I've had the PRO-710 since 2001 timeframe (the DVDO I-Scan folks used my set to debug their very first scalar product), and have loved it. However, I just bought a Sharp LC-65SE94U 65" LCD and the PRO-710 can't even come close to the detail and color imaging.

As the Elite cabinet is a beautiful black gloss finish, I have just gutted it from all the electronics and optics, and am in the process of making some minor cuts and building a stud wall inside the cabinet to mount the new Sharp LCD with a flat panel mount. So at least the cabinet will live on. And yes, I also paid $8300 for it back then but I won't have to buy a $400 to $500 base to stand it on as I needed something with casters to roll it out from the middle of my entertainment center to get at the other AV gear.

If anyone needs spare parts for their PRO-710..........

Ray
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post #7 of 38 Old 02-24-2009, 02:42 PM
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Do you still have the screen for the 710hd
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post #8 of 38 Old 02-28-2009, 05:48 AM
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AAAAUUUGGGHHH!!!!!!

I can't believe what you guys are saying! You obviously haven't been reading up on the fact that with proper calibration and cleanings, the Elites are STILL the best picture out there! They are just now into cruising speeds and will last several more years if properly kept. Which is a whole lot cheaper than buying a new fixed pixel set. Especially in this economy.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=695922

I am a proud 710 owner....

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post #9 of 38 Old 02-28-2009, 09:14 AM
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Just got home tonite from the weeklong Baltimore tour. Which included cleaning and calibration of 2 Elite 710s and 1 Hitachi, plus repair work on a 73" Mit with the owner's firm and deliberate hope that it can be saved and completely restored with calibration and shimming for the overscan IF the repair can be completed, all CRT RPTV format just like this one mentioned here. More than $300 has been spent so far on the Mit repair, a very hard to find module is currently off being rebuilt in this quest. There were 4 big screens to work on and only 7 days to do them in, so tonite is the first time I have had a chance to breathe a bit and contemplate which pix to send up.

These are the Before shots of Steve Mock's Pioneer Elite 710. I will get others up here soon, including the shimming op and Afters. They show why so many have given up hope on these sets so far. The Afters will show why there are so many people who are joining in with Pam's feelings on the matter.

The most noticeable deficiencies in his display were the optics needing cleaning, the pic was dim and overscanned, and of course the horrendous grayscale. He was nearing the edge on putting up with that pesky overscan, and the shimming op finally gave him the relief he's been looking for.

The purple pix were taken the first night, which was when the grayscale had to be done because of little light isolation in the daytime. The optics cleaning had to be done before the grayscale could be done.

The structure shots were taken the next day, after the grayscale had already been dealt with and restored. You can do the structure with little light iso, but not the grayscale.

Optics dirty

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Grayscale horrendous

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Pic after cleaning and grayscale but before restoring of the original light levels, along with other user settings needing to be way off center to deliver decent fleshtones, but before the rest of the work, where those got recentered

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huge overscan - observe the upper left corner, where the graphics are cut off at the knees. That's just the top, the bottom was the same -

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OOB overscan and uncentered positioning

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still grossly overscanned OOB, but at least re-centered before taking it in via the shimming op

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Dim pic at Black Level zero, requiring increasing it way out of spec

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More soon -

b

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post #10 of 38 Old 02-28-2009, 10:22 AM
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From another thead -


Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeTime View Post

I've been pondering getting a new plasma to replace my 7-year-old Toshiba 56H80. It still works OK, but the images have degraded over time and have become quite cloudy.

Just before I made the plasma plunge, I decided to give the old set one last try. Removed the screen (really easy -- just two retaining leg screws) and voila!

The lenses were caked with a thick film of dirt, which I wiped clean. The mirror, surprisingly, was fine. Here is a pic of the clean vs. dirty lenses:



Total time, around an hour and a half. The result? Like brand new. Didn't tell my wife, and when she clicked it on.... "WOW! Don't think we need a new TV now!"

Excellent pic! Looks just like what I find every time I open up a CRT RPTV, after cleaning the first lens.

Be sure you have cleaned your deeper optics - under your lenses, 6 more surfaces - and that you are NOT using any sort of dry method, including just wiping them off with a dry cloth. Those plastic surfaces are DEATHLY sensitive to being scratched/scuffed, and that's permanent damage if your cleaning techniques are wrong. Do NOT use any sort of dry method, and I don't advise using microfibre cloth either, because of its very lame absorbtion quotient.

If your deeper optics on a Tosh have not been cleaned, you're only halfway there. They are just as dirty as the lenses shown here. Your mirror is also dirty, tho it takes special procedures to see it. Shine a strong flashlight - like one of those super bright multi-LEDs - onto it from the side at a steep angle and you'll see what I mean.

Wait till you get your ENTIRE light path crystal clear again!

On a Tosh and many other brands including Pioneers and Hitachis, 10 surfaces need to be cleaned to restore the light path to crystal clear status again. On others, like Mits HDready's, whose coolant covers are sealed correctly, you only need to do 4 of them. In either case, intense care needs to be taken to not do permanent damage to them, once the years - and the static caused by the 30KV of HV inherent in CRT use - have locked that dust, dirt and grit onto those surfaces. ALL lenses in CRT RPTV tech are PLASTIC, not glass. The only glass in there is usually the mirror, and it's a front suface mirror, with the glass on the other side. As such extreme care needs to be taken to not strip it with any cleaning agent that might do so. No ammonia if you intend to do it over and over again over the years - I suggest once a year is minimum - and no solvents of any kind.

But unless it's a mylar mirror - in which case never touch it except to replace it with a glass front/first surface mirror, which will deliver better colors, better blacks and 25% more light level than a mylar - the mirror, which will be glass, will need cleaning EVERY time.


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post #11 of 38 Old 03-01-2009, 11:17 AM
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Same display as from the pix above, sent in earlier. More about the cal itself later -

b



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Sorry about the slight focussing blurriness on this one and on the Lilu pic above; it was camera error, not display error, display stayed the same in all the After shots. The colorations were very delicate, so I decided to keep it

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2 different exposure settings on cam, display remains the same. Cam's up/downloaded dynamic range nowhere near as good as display's, as evidenced best on the fur - while displaying excellent detail in the first pic, blazing into white crush in the second pic while the guy's backside is still challenged for shadow detail. Display settings not changed, and showing both challenging scenarios perfectly! The display had no problem with getting all of that right, as the settings on the display never changed yet showed it all when the best parts of both pix are observed.

The camera/computer upload/imageshack hosting/download to this thread - not so much

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post #12 of 38 Old 03-03-2009, 10:58 AM
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Dirty/clean Optics and grayscale









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This last shot was in the daytime with a skylight way up there and only able to be partially blocked, so the blacks won't be quite as inky as in the previous shots, with the daylight allowing you to see the nice wood cabinetry on this one, which Steve created from scratch BTW. VERY nice woodwork by the owner.

Cam's exposure setting lower than in shot above, at cam, display's settings remained the same. Would have reduced the exposure on the Before shot above to get a match with this one on the exposure, but it was too late by then

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post #13 of 38 Old 03-03-2009, 12:06 PM
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4 layers of half-inch thick wood, for exactly 2" thickness








You can see 2 blocks on this shot, because the entire array tray is raised so much




Steve's rather unique way of doing the bolts. As Kirk said in Wrath of Khan, about his solution to the unwinnable Kobiashi Maru (?) test at the Academy, "It had the unique virtue of never having been tried..." Observe the MULTIPLE washers at the head of the bolt, since we could not get the bolt to penetrate the set's metal tray beyond just a little bite, even with the hole already there for a smaller bolt thickness that we simply could not lay our hands on in an elongated length. Worked like a charm...






Both front and rear wood blocks on the right side are showing in both of these pix above -




The results


Before




After

Had to push the image up a bit from center because of a pesky red and blue dot that were visible in the blacks at fully centered vertically.

Top could have been a bit straighter and more parallel to the frame, but the shimming op had taken so long by then I was kind of in a rush and missed it. That wood wall that had to be removed was incredibly hard to get out when thru the front was the only way. He really didn't want to have to take the set out to get to the back of it, and with his considerations on what was back there to have to deal with, I didn't blame him...

Redoing the o'scan this way takes a lot of pressure off the coarse and fine geo/conv circuit, which can happen when reducing it via sm only



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post #14 of 38 Old 03-05-2009, 09:09 AM
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Factory instilled OOB overscan. BD graphics lettering - or anything else up there at top of screen that you might want to see - cut off at the knees. Same on bottom, cutting off much of her chin

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After

Overscan redux in action. Not only fully restored lettering, but of several inches of the gray above it as well. Same applies at bottom of screen, restoring the contour of her chin. And all around.

Apply this to sports scores and other graphics your CRT RPTV display is currenty missing and your eyes are starving for, if you've never had it done.

ALL CRT RPTV tech came with overscan as standard equipment, but the original pic can always be restored by someone in the know, again revealing those formerly lost areas of video real estate and at the same time heightening the available to be viewed visible pixel count. And thus heightened, more intense image resolution, both horizontally and vertically

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Before

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After

Just imagine...

Unfortunately, I didn't get an After on this one! The only After on o'scan redux other than Lilu's closeup is the grid, shown before. Maybe next time...




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post #15 of 38 Old 03-05-2009, 05:12 PM
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Excellent work Bob, what that set should have looked like in the first place (which it probably didn't). I'd say no one who puts down CRT-RPTV has ever seen a set that looks like this one or even close, which most calibrated ones do. I just extended the warranty on mine for another 3 years. Maybe there will be something better by then but I doubt it.
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post #16 of 38 Old 03-06-2009, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post

Excellent work Bob, what that set should have looked like in the first place (which it probably didn't). I'd say no one who puts down CRT-RPTV has ever seen a set that looks like this one or even close, which most calibrated ones do. I just extended the warranty on mine for another 3 years. Maybe there will be something better by then but I doubt it.




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post #17 of 38 Old 06-03-2009, 08:52 AM
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These were sent to me by Joe Barnhart by email, from shots he personally took of his PRO 510HD Elite -

Calibrated by yours truly, of course...





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post #18 of 38 Old 11-10-2009, 09:08 AM
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I just added some pix to my Don't Dump your CRT RPTV! thread - not your specific brand, but definitely shows what CRT is capable of. Is a Mit, so keep that in mind and enjoy, even if you'd just like to see what YOUR set can look like with the appropriate care and attention -



b

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post17508339

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post #19 of 38 Old 12-04-2009, 04:53 PM
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Send me an email if you are interested adias14@gmail.com


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post #20 of 38 Old 01-11-2010, 07:46 PM
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Hey all.

I had my pro 620 for years and it looked great - til the day it decided not to work. I know that I can spend a few hundred to get it fixed but I decided to upgrade instead.

I have the unit sitting in a spare room. It looks great except on the right side at the bottom where the movers chipped away 3" of the black lacquer on the door frame. It can easily be covered or painted since you can't see it from the front.

Does anyone know how much I should sell it for and where I can market it?

Thanks for your help -
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post #21 of 38 Old 01-12-2010, 10:11 AM
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Let us know where you live. With this size of unit, usually whatever happens has to be kept local.

ebay and craigslist are the usual used marketplaces. There is also a section here on the AVS.


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post #22 of 38 Old 07-19-2010, 03:29 PM
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Pioneer ELITE PRO 710HD for Sale. Excellent condition.

NW Chicago Burbs. You can send an email to 3nickles@prodigy.net

BEST OFFER
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post #23 of 38 Old 11-25-2011, 09:57 AM
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This was just posted on another thread, thought I'd share it with you here -


Quote:
Originally Posted by najames View Post

Holy Cow Dave Harper!!! You said ISF is in Florida, so I decided to see where they're located. They're about 5-10 minutes from my house!! Didn't even know it, too darned funny.

I have an elderly Pioneer SD-532HD5 like this one.

http://www4.shopping.com/xFS?KW=pion...Video&FD=85747

I might just need to have this thing calibrated some day. It works OK and has been moved across the country twice, in storage for a couple years, never been touched except when I used the Avia disk set it up initially and when I moved here in Boca Raton 3 years ago.

Just noticed this post in another thread, from way back in '05.

Just so you know, those "elderly" CRT RPTVs are not old, they have a 20 year service life - or more, I've seen it, recently heard about a 29 year old Panny CRT 50" that's still cranking away just fine - and at today's stage are only halfway thru it. I know of an "old" curved screen bounce-off-the-screen Sears CRT whose guns fire at the hinged mirror that you pull out and let fall into place to start it up, that's still cranking away just fine too. We've been looking for someone to take it home and keep it going, or hopefully get it to some sort of video museum, tho I have never actually heard of one...

Well treated by their owners re. usage, light levels and avoidance of screenburn, they are capable of WAY better than new performance, even at 11 years old.

I am being flown all over the country cleaning and calibrating these "elderly" beasts, which are capable of incredible HD, head and shoulders better than a lot of the "affordable" fixed pixel offerings out there in today's marketplace. And better looking in some ways than all fixed pixel offerings.

The main thing that not everybody knows about them is that their optics need to be cleaned yearly, and on some brands - like the Pioneers, be they Elite or non-Elite - the "deeper optics" need it every few years as well. That's because of the air gap between the lens barrels and the CRT coolant covers, where 6 additional surfaces get invaded by dust, soot, smoke and all manner of other airborn contaminants, and thus compromised because of the high voltage turning them into powerful, continuous dust magnets every moment they are powered on. There's 28 optical surfaces in there that need to stay crystal clear, 10 of which get heavily compromised because of the HV. When all 28 surfaces are clean and polished and you have a crystal clear light path again, the results are truly astonishing. Like getting a brand new TV for a simple hour's work.

Just doing this one thing gives your "elderly" set a brand new looking picture - in my area my calibrations are called "The Sparkle Process" - and calibration after that is just incredible icing on the cake.

I started the "Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV!" thread here on AVS more than 5 years ago, and it is still going strong, with over 300 complete pages so far and over 9000 posts. If you have a CRT RPTV at all, HD or non-HD, I invite you to go over there and check it out.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...95922&page=327

If you have a CRT RPTV or know someone who does and want info about how to do your optics cleaning with no damage - those soft plastic surfaces in there are incredibly delicate, vulnerable and easily scratched, and any damage to them is permanent - contact me directly, by email or phone. No pm's please!

Thx -

Mr Bob

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post #24 of 38 Old 02-27-2012, 08:33 AM
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Mr. Bob, you mentioned an Insignia BD player that uses video component out and has built in wireless for streaming. Can you provide a model number of a unit please?

Thanks
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post #25 of 38 Old 02-28-2012, 07:42 AM
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Model NAS-BRDVD3. Has the Ethernet, HDMI and component connections, plus both Toslink/fibre optic and Coaxial digital audio outputs, which is good because you never know which type you'll need, to have the most in versatility on your sys. Have only patched it into my system for brief video testing on component, looked great!

If you want to get one from me, I have 2 available, both brand new.

b

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post #26 of 38 Old 02-28-2012, 07:48 AM
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To answer the OP's question, you can do HD over component. I was doing that for 6 years until I recently upgraded my electronics and switched to HDMI. I have a Pio Elite Pro 1130.
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post #27 of 38 Old 05-07-2013, 06:39 PM
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My dad passed away this winter and I'm helping my mom clean out their house. She is moving and they have a Pioneer Elite 63 " Pro 710HD in the den. It's massive so I suggested posting an ad on Craigslist and tell the buyer they have to deal with getting if out. I see it was very expensive a decade ago but does it have any value now? Should I at least get her a few hundred bucks for it?
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post #28 of 38 Old 05-08-2013, 10:06 AM
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Yes. Your set is still capable of amazing HD, it was the best of its time and fully optimized still stands tall in the world's present HD arena.

CRTs like this have a massive following on the AVS, and if someone close by to you is reading either of the 2 threads I write on all the time, you will have your buyer. Or if nobody is willing to give you money, somebody will take it away for you and keep it alive and well. Be sure to let whoever takes your set know about what I do with these sets, esp. about the need to have any intermittent problems noticed dealt with promptly. The 510/610/710 series was plagued by cold solder joints on the PS board, but that can be permanently fixed with what I do with them, then I lifetime warranty that work.

Here are the links to those threads. Pay attention to the very first post on the first one, written by me, then go to page 259 to see screenshots of my own big screen in action so you'll see what your set is capable of. I started that thread more than 7 years ago, called Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV! and it's still going strong, soon to reach its 400th page.

On the second one, pay attention more to the end than the beginning. In the very beginning nobody could figure out what was going on, and later on the absolute fix came about, which has been working like gangbusters ever since -

http://www.avsforum.com/t/695922/dont-dump-your-crt-rptv/11700#post_23291491


http://www.avsforum.com/t/402397/pioneer-elite-pro-510-problem/2880#post_23285803

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post #29 of 38 Old 05-08-2013, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Just got home tonite from the weeklong Baltimore tour.

b

Hey Bob! Long time off of the forum... wish I knew you were in Balmer...sigh. I'm just a hop and a skip away in NoVA. My 510 and 710s are still going strong... and looking fab. Don't sweat these guys. I have LCDs too... and I don't care what they say. My tweaked out RPCRTs leave them in the dust. Keep on doing what you do... and next time you get out here, please let me know... I'd love to have you visit.

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post #30 of 38 Old 05-09-2013, 06:54 PM
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Well that tour was a couple of years ago now, but I am still ready and willing to come wherever I am flown. Hope I'm closer by to you sometime soon -

cool.gif

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