Toshiba 52HM84 Ballast Replacement (with large pics!) - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 86 Old 07-07-2010, 02:46 PM
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After changing the Ballast the Tv came on, bulb is new. Know its showing a black and white chekcerd board more like rectangel boards thumbnail size all across the screen also will not power of itself..any ideas Thanks in advance
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post #62 of 86 Old 08-15-2010, 08:33 PM
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Outstanding instructions! I pulled my ballast out and replaced the 1000ohm resistor. Installed back in TV and Bulb lights but no picture! Do you think it could be the light engine? Out of all the forums and threads no one talks about the light being lit if the ballast is bad. I believe the ballast controls the light coming on. After that, the light engine takes over. Pisses me off I spent over 2k for this thing and after 4 years its junk. Can anybody help?
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post #63 of 86 Old 08-26-2010, 02:55 PM
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gujuguru - Soundls like you have a similar problem to the fellow who started this post and maybe a few others. This may have been caused by plugging the cable with the copper shielding in upside down.

Chart41 - The job of the ballast is lighting the bulb. If your bulb is lit and no picture there must be something else wrong. Make sure you got everything put back together properly. In getting to the ballast there is ample opportunity to get something else disconnected.
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post #64 of 86 Old 08-29-2010, 05:18 PM
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I have the same problem with new lamp on my 46HM84 but the lamp will not turn on. After reading this thread, I thought that I need to replace the ballast board which will cost $165 on ebay. Somewhere in this thread, there was a guy by just replace one 1000 resister. I went to radio shack and found the resister. The resister has this color code. Brown, black, red, gold. All it take is 98 cent plus $19 head gun, $3 solder. After replacing the resister, It work as new. Don't throw away your tv thinking it cost too much. Google search to find out how to take out the ballast board.

I also use multimeter to test my bad resister and found it has infinite resistance which mean no electricity is flowing through. No wander the lamp will not lit up. Thank you so much for everyone input, it help a lot. However, I still bought a 50" LG lcd tv for $700. I just don't want my soldering project ruin my family's joy. Besides, the lamp on this tv cost $100 a year. My begining plan was to buy a new TV because the maintance cost year orver year may cost more than a new TV, but I did not expect I can get it fix under $10 by just replace one resister. Well, I have an extra TV, and Now this Toshiba 46hm84 is all mine.
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post #65 of 86 Old 09-06-2010, 05:13 PM
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We replaced the ballast using the instructions/photos with no problems. The image is good and all inputs work except HDMI. Does anyone have any idea why HDMI does not work?

THANK YOU!
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post #66 of 86 Old 10-25-2010, 08:06 PM
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I am hoping someone will pick on on this old post-thread and can tell what the printed circuit board is that the copper ribbon cable in step 7 of the photos/steps is for replacing the ballast. You guessed it, in the course of replacing the ballast, I broke the connection to the PCB.
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post #67 of 86 Old 12-25-2010, 12:11 PM
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Hi guys,

Just replaced ballast 9 months ago and it is giving me issues again: blowing bulbs and taking multiple cycles to start. Does anyone have detailed information on how to determine which diode on the board is blown and how to go about replacing it. Don't really want to spend $160 on a new ballast if I can fix it myself for $10.

Thanks and any info would be appreciated!

Scott
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post #68 of 86 Old 01-03-2011, 09:21 AM
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Hi,
I'm new subscriber and not sure how to post message. cause I did twice but didn't show.
I'm having same problem.front led still flashing after installed new lamp. thanks to coronadO's instructions and detail pictures, now I can repair myself. I wonder whoever has ballast board and cooling fan for sell to me, if not then I'll buy them and try to repair my set. thank you.
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post #69 of 86 Old 01-07-2011, 02:09 AM
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tks for sharing this useful thread!

is your ballast still available?

Quote:
Originally Posted by coronad0 View Post

Just a quick "your welcome" to everyone who was able to save some $$$ before buying a very expensive light engine or costly repair!

Smergs, in case no one has gotten back to you, yes, it sounds like a ballast issue. The P on the part indicates a direct Toshiba ballast, not a refurbed one, which would also explain the $154 for the P version, $76 for the refurbed one.

On a sad note though, about a month ago my light engine finally died out and that was enough for me and I have moved over to the Plasma world with a Panasonic 50" ( http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-e...00000000005702 from Costco it was about $1500! ) and it has a gorgeous picture.

I'll be putting my TB25-LMP lamp and 23122468 up on eBay or on here at AVS if anyone needs 'em. I think I have only about 10 or so hours on both the lamp and the ballast board.

I'll probably put the hull that is now my 52HM84 up on Craigslist or something for extra parts or if someone wants it for a local community college for their electronic engineer students ... no charge for that, the thing is so huge and is taking up much needed basement space where a sweet air hockey table should be

Glad everything worked out for those of you who did the job yourselves!

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post #70 of 86 Old 01-19-2011, 05:44 PM
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ADD ME TO YOUR LIST OF PEOPLE HELPED!!! Based on some research I did with my HID headlight ballasts & bulbs coupled with research on the behavior of my TV here (54HM94), I figured out I needed a new ballast. I found your pics and instructions and they helped me along the way. I was basically doing it very slowly acting like I didn't have instructions to make sure I may have caught something that might have been different, but your instructions were SPOT ON!!! Very nice write up! You sir have saved me either $1100 for a new TV or ~$400 for a service call. YOU ROCK!!!
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post #71 of 86 Old 04-21-2011, 11:14 PM
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For those of you who recently replaced the ballast, can you please recommend where I should buy it? I need it too for my 62HMX84. I just replaced the lamp, but no picture still. I'm hearing the buzz noise right after the fan and wheel spinning.

I found one at PartStore.com for $154.17, but I couldn't checkout unless I give them a call. It seems like they don't have it in stock.

NEWPARTSOURCE.COM has it for $165 with free standard shipping.

pacparts.com has it for $126.16, plus $47.00 Core Charge, but I'm not sure how it works. Did any of you buy from them and successfully get the money back from the core charge?

If you can find better or more reasonable deal, please let me know.

Thanks!
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post #72 of 86 Old 08-07-2011, 08:44 PM
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I replaced a resistor on the ballast. The tv no longer makes buzzing sounds when trying to start up but the lamp still doesn't turn on.

Any ideas? I'm wondering if I may have pulled on the power cord for the ballast. That power cable goes behind the AV connections so I would have no idea if thats something that can come loose.

Did I get the right resistor? 1 kohm 1/8 watt. It looks the right size and color. but im a bit color blind so its hard to be 100% sure



52HMX94
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post #73 of 86 Old 12-16-2011, 05:40 AM
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Please help... i have 52HM84... noticed the bulb slightly dimming off and on, decided to order new bulb (this will be 3rd one since '06, others popped and blew) just in case. Put new bulb in and it did not light. There is a buzz coming from lamp area when the TV attempts to fire up but then green/red flashing power light. Put in old bulb and TV is fine again.

Called DiscountTVLamps.com (for RMA) thinking the bulb was bad and they indicated that it may be a 'ballast'... poked around web for info and found this forum.

Question: is it possible for the old lamp to work and the new one NOT to work and yet still be the ballast?

Appreciate any help here... love the TV but the cost of maintaining it is starting to make zero sense.

-marshall in Lancaster, PA
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post #74 of 86 Old 12-22-2011, 01:56 AM
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ballast is good otherwise old lamp won't work.

Did you get original lamp or aftermarket lamp?

You need to tell Discount lamp that old lamp still work so ballast is good and new lamp is not. We ordered from Projector Lamp Source believing their ad as original lamp, turned out its aftermarket and this new lamp requires multi-start to light up. Although they ask us to send lamp back for refund, the damage to the ballast had already been done so that original lamp that was working will not light up anymore. Toshiba Service tech mentioned that subpar lamps draw too much current from the ballast to cause them to failed.
It will be interesting to know what we ordered from discount lamp because we had recently ordered the more expensive ($125) "original". They said its made by Phoenix but I heard Toshiba lamp were made by Ushio.
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post #75 of 86 Old 12-22-2011, 11:48 AM
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Thx MaxHuey... so the lamp says TOSHIBA Lamp Unit TYPE: TB25-LMP

So I'm assuming its a org... and it was $139.

I'll be sending it back this weekend and see what they say - I'll have to pay restocking fee if lamp is good after they re-test it.. which sux!
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post #76 of 86 Old 12-22-2011, 09:59 PM
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You need to be firm with company like this, reason out with them over the phone that your original lamp still work so it can not be ballast problem. The most common problem is subpar lamp they installed in the housing.

I have asked them over the phone and they ho and hum but eventually admitted to me that the bare lamp they use for installation into the lamps housing are from the same company that Toshiba uses, and not from Toshiba. Well, that makes a whole world of difference!!! If you check the web (example: Alibaba), there are a million (exaggeration) companies in China manufacturing these lamps, to all different specs too. and they supply big lamp companies here in NA. Most of the manufacturers will specify the quality by number of hours the lamp can handle, and most specs at 2000H, a common happy medium. A few company will specs at 3000H and I suspected these are the one selling as original here in NA.

When I was in Beijing silicon valley (Zhongguancun) last month, one store owner told me that Chinese manufacturers have the ability to gauge the time they want the lamp to burn out by the amount and type of gas they leave in the lamp core. They can make lamp that last 10,000H (not much different than Mercury Street Lamp) but that would be like shooting themselves on the foot.

Digressing a bit - I was in Costco earlier this evening, look at 60" Aquos LCD, 120 Hz... under $1200 !!! make me think twice about fixing my 72MX196. I have already ordered a lamp from Discount for $125, if ballast is cooked and changing 1000 ohm resistor won't help, then I am just going to bite the bullet and get me a new TV.
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post #77 of 86 Old 12-22-2011, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newf14 View Post

Great Forum!
I am a first time user and those of you experienced types will think me a genius or an idiot, probably the latter; however, after I pulled the 9 month old LAmp TB25-LMP and wasn't surprised to see the bulb was gone again, I started looking for an alternative to 225.00 bulbs ( this is Canada ! ). I searched and searched and nothing. I then got the great idea to hit the local hardware store pickup a 75w par 30 flood light ( the exact size of the old one) and a screw on type socket with pig tails. I cut the wires from the old light to salvage the connector and wired them together. Guess what !! it actually worked @!! well it worked for all of about 10 seconds (lights, colors, sound everything) and then the screen went black, the sound remained, and the cycle of screen on and off continued for about 9 attempts and then it locked out I guess.
I have read alot here on this forum and at first I would have thought my ballast has died, now I am wondering about this thing called a light engine ??
Can someone please tell me what the ballast does ? and what does the light engine do ??
I have had the whole tray out and was going to hard wire in somw 120 volts to the bulb but I figure I would get stuck with the cycling on and off and maybe a loss of temperature protection.

Sorry for the long read - but I am ready to scrap this thing and use it as Snow Slide !

Thanks

Newf14

if you are still reading this, you should have bought yourself a $25 120 watt mercury lamp instead (princes auto have them) . in principle, it should work like a charm although you have to modify to make it fit physically. hope you have time and still have TV for fun experiments!!!

you can also buy the whole mercury lamp assembly (about $50) and use the ballast that comes with it.

Correction: ballast put out 38~100 volts DC so you need to consider that too...
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post #78 of 86 Old 01-01-2012, 10:34 AM
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I bought my Toshiba 52HM84 in May 2005. Over the years, I have bought 6 lamps. The first few actually failed because the bulb popped. Sometimes, when I would have a problem I noticed the bulbs did not pop. I bought replacement lamps anyway and I kept the old lamp. About that time ('08 or '09) I started reading about the ballast problems and every 6 months or so, I would have the problem and replace a lamp - either with a brand new one or one of the older ones I had on hand. Most times it worked. Sometimes it didn't and I would try a different lamp until it finally"clicked it". At one point, I quit turning my TV off for fear it wouldn't work when I turned it on.

Anyway, I recently decided to replace the ballast but the only one I could find was a 23122497. I read that my TV needed a 23122498 but this one would work also.

I followed the instructions and replace the ballast. I had big problems with the copper ribbon cable and I accidentally broke a small wire on the cable trying to get it back in.

When I reassembled the entire TV and turned it on. I had a solid green and a blinking red - which I think indicates the lamp unit door is not seated properly which is not the case.

Does anyone have any ideas or comments? Should I cut my losses and junk this thing? Did I put in the wrong ballast or did the problem with the ribbon cable give me this result?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #79 of 86 Old 01-10-2012, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marty19 View Post

Thx MaxHuey... so the lamp says TOSHIBA Lamp Unit TYPE: TB25-LMP

So I'm assuming its a org... and it was $139.

I'll be sending it back this weekend and see what they say - I'll have to pay restocking fee if lamp is good after they re-test it.. which sux!

same problem here... lamp arrived, not original as advertised, they explained that the lamp came from Phoenix, same company that make lamp for Toshiba.

my original lamp still work but this new one did not. After long talk with toshiba service center, they said per their 6 years experience on this model, it will require original lamp from Toshiba because most aftermarket just keep restarting.

I sent the lamp back today and told them if they can not give me the real original lamp from Toshiba, I want a full refund. Also saved a copy of their ad just in case I need to complain to eBay.

By the way, Toshiba service Center was going to sell me the lamp for $150, this is less than what I have already spent!
LL
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post #80 of 86 Old 02-20-2012, 08:04 PM
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I do television repair for a living, today I started a 62" Toshiba DLP..Having the same symptoms I replaced 2 main Caps on the power Supply (200v 1000uf upgraded to 250v 1200uf ) 1 cap on the secondary (200v 520uf up to 250v 1000uf ) and then replaced the 3 diodes closest to the Bulb leads on the ballast board . works great!! Hope this was helpful
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post #81 of 86 Old 05-30-2012, 06:53 PM
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Followed your easy instructions with pictures and within 30 min. I had replaced the ballast. You are a great teacher. Thank you for taking the time and effort to clearly explain the procedure.
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post #82 of 86 Old 12-04-2012, 10:54 AM
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I just followed this guide for my very nearly 6-year old 62HM196. I bought a "Toshiba 62HM116 DLP 62HM196 62MX196 Sub Power Supply PE0032 C 2 V28A000007B2 0092" board from Ebay for about $50 and replaced it myself using your guide. While my TV was not identical, there were few differences in the layout and so this guide worked very well for finding the parts and layout of the interior, and knowing where the screws were (mostly). This repair has fixed my TV.

I have not repaired a TV before, but I have a moderate understanding of electronics - I build my own computers, so replacing a PCB that did not require soldering seemed simple enough. It took me about an hour and a half because I was going slow and careful, and inspecting parts as I encountered them, since I did not know what was wrong with my TV. I was looking for bulging caps, shorts or burned fuses. I did not find any, but went ahead with the part swap anyway since I had gone to the trouble to order it, and if I needed to go do the entire ballast, at least I could rule out this part.

Along the way, I found significant dust all over, but heavily concentrated on all the fans. I used a vacuum to clean it, and was careful around the color wheel assembly area to not "blow" or kick up dust into that opening. The lens that projects up to the mirror was slightly dusty, with a very light but noticeable film on it (I could not see the mirror itself to check). I popped the plastic protector off of that piece and cleaned it with a micro-fiber cloth. It snapped back into place very easily. I also sucked dust out of most of the fans, and notably, off of the copper coils on the ballast board (which I did not replace). There is a small fan that blows on them (nearly identical to your pictures), but my coil in front of the fan was nearly entirely piled with dust - much more than in your picture.

After putting everything back together, the TV started up fine.

My symptoms were: lamp light flashing - any time power was applied to the TV, it would simply continue to flash the yellow light in 3-second cycles indefinitely. The TV acted up over a period of about 3 months, at first turning itself off while I was watching it (no pop for the lamp - and I verified by inspecting the lamp which was new last summer), and then not wanting to turn back on. This only happened a handful of times, and I thought it might be heat because 5-10 minutes of rest would allow it to turn back on - but then it would continue to run for a very long time - making me suspect heat may not be the whole issue. After the final failure (I had been watching it), it turned off and never came back.

Thanks so much for this guide. It will save me a ton of cash.
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post #83 of 86 Old 03-08-2013, 07:39 PM
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Thanks for your help in replacing my Toshiba ballast. I was hoping you could tell me where to get that copper ribbon cable replacement you mentioned in your post when you said "Slowly and very carefully, remove the copper ribbon cable as shown. This copper ribbon cable was the hardest thing to put back in during reassembly, I kid you not. I hate that ribbon cable with all of my soul."
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post #84 of 86 Old 07-09-2013, 02:33 PM
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Joined this site just to say "Thank You ".. Have a nearly 8yr old 63HM15, looks just like your pictures inside .. just replaced the bulb for the 3rd time .. after replacing the bulb it started slowly the first time then would only start after many trys if at all. No money for a ballast board or new TV so nothing to loose but the cost of the already purchasted bulb .. Followed this how too, only replacing the bad 1K resistor at r3 and all is good. Cleaned the projector lens as mentioned above and what a difference .. Worth the trouble of disassembling just to clean the lens .. Don't know how long it will last but Thanks again, Great how too, a great money saver & I'm my wifes hero for the moment!
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post #85 of 86 Old 07-09-2013, 02:36 PM
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^^^^ ooops ..it's a 62 HM15 .. ^^^^^
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post #86 of 86 Old 10-10-2013, 01:45 PM
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i am having an issue with one also i can hear the high voltage buzzing but the bulb is not firing and it is a brand new bulb does any one have any ideas on what i should try next

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