I have a Samsung DLP HLR4266W that has worked fine while under warranty. It is three years old and now, it's just not working for me!
To begin, the lamp did need replacing as the screen started to go dim. Before I could replace the lamp, the color wheel started with the banshee noise, but the TV still worked. So, I purchased both the color wheel as well as the lamp. I had read a lot of posts from different places and felt fairly comfortable about doing replacing these parts. After they were installed, the tv was powered back on, but the colors were reversed! I had read about the CN810 jumper and that to get the colors back correctly, this jumper had to be removed. So, we tore back into the TV and had a hard time finding just where this jumper was. We finally found it but it was behind the heat-sink fan and I believe it the board we located it on was the DMD board. There was a spring loaded clip that was difficult to remove (required a special tool), but we managed to get it off, removed the jumper, and put everything back. The TV then worked just fine for all of 2 days! When it quit working, ALL the lights came on, TEMP, STANDBY, LAMP and would flash 3 times and power down, flash 3 times, power down. There was no click that indicated the ballast was working, so we assumed (ugh, I hate that word) that the ballast needed replacing. I ordered the ballast, received it and installed it and again, put everything back. Ppwered the TV back on and now, the LAMP light is flashing, but not the TEMP and STANDBY, and it is trying to turn on, but won't. I had read where it could be a screw (and yes, for some reason I have an extra screw that I shouldn't have) or that it could be my light tunnel. I also read that if the light tunnel isn't properly positioned, these could be symptomatic of that?
I hate that this has happened as even though I had the noise and dim picture, the TV did work and I'm not a TV tech, but have worked on electronic equipment (computers/printers) so I do have an understanding of boards, etc. Needless to say, I am extremely unhappy with my TV as I am now watching a 20" that just doesn't cut it for me. I did also call Samsung and the tech did say it seemed it could be a collapsed light tunnel, but I don't understand what is meant by collapsed. I've looked inside again although I didn't take it down to the color wheel level (my next step I suppose since maybe the screw is causing a problem!) and can't see that anything looks any different. Is this something I could visibly see - a collapsed light tunnel?
I couldn't help but see that numerous other Samsung DLP models seem to share this similar scenario and it seems to me that this is more a design issue than true failure..I would really appreciate ANY help that ANYONE can provide! Hoping to hear from someone...............
Light tunnel has no electronics and will never cause the Tv to NOT turn on or shutdown.
The jumper for the colorwheel is on the DMD, but there should be no reason to remove the heatsink to get to the jumper.
At startup you should hear a relay, then the colorwheel spinup, then the ballast click/buzz, then the lamp will fire, then you have picture. So at this point, what is NOT happening when you power on the Tv?
The jumper was not handily available at all - we looked all over for this jumper, but to on avail. All info led us to the one board and there was no other means of getting to this jumper except removing that heat sink. We spent the better part of a day looking for it. I too thought it should not be so difficult to get to a jumper, but once that heat-sink was removed and we checked, there was CN810, small print, but clearly marked.
That being said, the power hits the tv, the color wheel seems to spin up, the ballast does seems to click, the lamp never fires. It then repeats this cycle, and sometimes, the ballast does not click, but the tv never goes to screen. Eventually, after this cycle takes place several times, each time with just the LAMP light flashing, then all lights flash. I had to wait several minutes before this happened, whereas initially, when the TV shut off, all of them flashed immediately. Now, each time I plug in power, it's only the LAMP light through several cycles, then all the lights - but the lamp never fires up and never get a picture on the screen.
Hoping to hear more about this - I just have a feeling it's something we've already done and need to redo, or it's something minor that we're overlooking.
Originally Posted by Dunroamin
... Now, each time I plug in power, it's only the LAMP light through several cycles
Normal startup indicator
Originally Posted by Dunroamin
...then all the lights - but the lamp never fires up and never get a picture on the screen...
Replace DMD. Or go back and re-do what-ever you did when you were in there messing with jumper and make sure all connections are good.
Did the colorwheel paperwork say to pull the jumper? Or did it come with a new set of color numbers to enter into the service menu?
Well, you have a point because it sure seemed to me that the way that DMD board was covered with that heatsink, the jumper was not the right way to reverse the colors back - I thought it would be in the system menu. However, numerous posts had mentioned removing the jumper, and there is also a sticker inside the tv that references that jumper. I was already thinking I needed to go back through and check everything that was done. If in fact, replacing the jumper allows the tv to come back on, how in the world to I get my colors back if I see they are still reversed? I simply can't afford a tech to come out - I live so far out here in East Texas that it would be cost-prohibitive to have a tech come here. I'm disabled and don't drive either, so loading up the tv is out of the question.
I do appreciate the posts and hope that when I go back through the tv, I can at least get picture back and if I do, I'll tackle the next problem....
Have gone back thru the tv...no go. I doubt very seriously that I will sink any more money into this tv. My husband is quite put out with trying to get it working again. I am now on the phone with Samsung (ECR) and will be registering my disappointment with the lack of quality we've experienced with this particular tv. I fully understand warranties and that this one is out of warranty, however, for so many items to fail seems a bit much. Color wheel is a mechanical part and of course, that is usually the first thing to go, something mechanical. But then to have the whole system fail after it actually worked for 2 days?? Seems a bit much.....hope I get further advice, but I'm not holding my breath....
Originally Posted by Dunroamin
..the power hits the tv, the color wheel seems to spin up, the ballast does seems to click, the lamp never fires...
If you have a meter, you can check the voltages at the ballast. 230v across the large two pin connector from the power supply, and 5v on the very tiny connector coming from the DM.
Check the simple things too- you are taping the lamp door switch down when you have the back off, right?
Yes, I have the switched taped up while working on this. Again, that is another confusing part about this. The instructions that came with the replacement lamp stated to make sure the switch was DOWN, but then other references for the back cover switch (which is the same switch, correct??) stated that it needed to be UP. Checking with the meter, it didn't seem to matter whether it was up or down - when in the middle, no current, but either UP or DOWN, current....???
Anyway, checking the ballast does seem to be something else to do. Many thanks for the advice. Still dealing with Samsung though.....
This happened to me with a newly bought flat screen plasma tv. After minimal use and 1 year of ownership it started to flash. I eventually had to get a new one. This is probably what you will have to do with your samsung to be honest. Either that or you will have to pay someone to fix it and run the risk of it breaking down again which is often times what happens.
If you are still visiting this forum, would you mind telling me what happened? Your problems are almost identical to mine - and I can't seem to find the solution either.
We have had the exact same problem and this feed really helped us think about the order or what was happening. We replaced the Color Wheel (as it was broken into pieces), the lamp (since after color wheel replacement nothing happened but those three blinking lights) and the Large Fan because we could not hear anything click on and the other two parts still did not fix the problem.
We are military living overseas and we HAVE to fix it ourselves and at this point we though only the Ballast is left to be replaced. We have owned it for four years and spent 4500 on it so we wanted at least another 4 years out of this TV!
Here is how we fixed it- there is a brown flat "tape" extending from the Color Wheel with three wires inside. One side has exposed metallic tape, and the other is insulated. The exposed metal has to make contact with slot on the top of the ballast. We had the exposed wires inverted and so it was not making contact.
I have a Samsung DLP Model HLP4663WX. My 46 inch uses the same colorwheel (pn BP96-00674A) as the 50 inch version. My symptoms were a noisy colorwheel but it quieted down after 10 mins. I bought a replacement colorwheel and went through the replacement. The only difference was the 2 ribbon cables on the original came off the assembly on the same side. The new part had one cable on each side but the assembly looked identical and I purchased it from partstore.com after keying my model number.
A word to the wise about partstore. Make sure you check the package. You only have 3 days for shipping damage and 30 days for unopened returns. My problem was I waited til the 32nd day to install the new part.
Anyhow, after replacement, it powered up fine.. quiet but the "color hue" was green. I then read about the jumper etc - which I found and removed it because I felt this had to be my issue. At that point I thought maybe I had the alternate type colorwheel.. Some info about one type has a metal bearing and the other is air bearing - not sure. But the posts indicate removing the jumper tells the DMD board what type.. Whatever!
After removing the jumper, the TV never powered up correctly - meaning I started getting those same symptoms with the flashing lamp light (on the front). 3 times it cycled through the flashing lamp then powered off/on again eventually powering down with all 3 lamps flashing on the front center button.
I spent several hours troubleshooting this problem and thought maybe I had a burned out lamp since it never lit anymore.. I wasnt sure with the covers on whether the colorwheel was actually spinning up or was I hearing the fans? I did hear some clicking as if the ballast was trying to turn the lamp on.
Bottom line is I finally took it all apart because I felt the colorwheel wasn't spinning. When I removed the new colorwheel I found my problem. The new colorwheel was now semi-frozen. Meaning it did not spin freely anymore. I could not see where it was bent or binding... Just that it didnt float freely. So I put the original back in plus the jumper and voila.. it now works like it used to.. a little noisy but color is fine and I can actually watch TV again.
Not sure if this happened due to some voltage issue with the jumper in or out etc.. It's possible that the colorwheel motor was defective or just overheated. It wasn't on long after I had the "green hue" so I really don't know what caused it to bind up.
Eventually, I'll shell out another $140.00 for a colorwheel... Just not to the partstore.com site.
Their advice was I should have a technician come adjust the colors... Uh huh..OK thanks for nothing.
BTW... Even now when I power it on I get that flashing lamp light until I hear the colorwheel spin. After that, the real lamp kicks on and the flashing lamp light on the front goes solid green. My theory is the real lamp wont light if the colorwheel doesn't spin. Just make sure you actually hear it spinning before you suspect your real lamp is burnt out.
My 46 inch samsung had flashing green lites in front--bulb would not lite--got a new lamp-- still not lit--cannot hear fan start. Goes thru series of trying to light but never does.
i have a samsung dlp hlm507w with the same symptoms mentioned: it powers up. i hear the high-whining sound. color wheel does spin. ballast firing up lamp. no picture.
this cycle occurs 3x then the 3 lights of doom appear. everything seems to happen in order except for the picture.
new bulb. have new ballast but i didnt attempt to replace it yet since reading the comments about the ballast 'firing up'.
dont know what the problem could be.
will someone please help
I have a Samsung hlr4266 with what sounds like the same problem. We have had it since around 2006, but it is a bedroom TV that was rarely used. It was serviced twice by best buy under extended warranty, I never messed with it myself. I doubt we have more than 100 hours on the bulb (tech replaced it when it was last repaired).
Sometimes it will turn on just fine, usually in the morning. Other times (maybe Murphy's law, since it is usually when we want to watch a rented movie in bed), it wont turn on. You hear the spin up, the ballast clicks, I can see the light is on, but the picture does not display. The lights flash when you hit buttons on the remote, but no response, no menu, no anything. Eventually it clicks and goes off (standby).
There have been a few times when I just kept trying it eventually came on; other times I can not get it to turn on for days.
I am guessing some capacitor is flaking out. Sucks, we like the picture on this TV better than most of the new TV's we look at, but I will not call a repair guy, it is ridiculous what the parts cost for these DLP's.
I do repairs on my pro music gear. If anyone can suggest some tests for a faulty cap, connector, switch, or something that I can replace, please let me know. Otherwise, it will be going to the scrap heap soon.