Originally Posted by YellowGT0
I'm using Nvidion 3D vision an and both imagines are full screen if you close one eye you see the whole screen at 1920X1080.
That is what I meant by a 960x1080 image spread horizontally: spread so that it fills the whole screen -which you are supposing is 1920x1080p, but it's not.
The glasses sync with the TV right lens closes 60 times and left closes 60 times so I don't see how the whole tv could be doing anything less then 120.
Read up on wobulation, specifically Mitsubishi's. It will help understand how a half an image (resolution wise, not physical size wise) at 120Hz means a full resolution 1920x1080p image at 60Hz.
And as far as being offset by half a pixel thats way off even at the closest setting it would have to be a cm distance apart maybe a little less. Ctrl F3 bring the images together and Ctrl F4 spreads them apart untill you have two screen.
Don't confuse the two 960x1080 images of wobulation, with the two stereoscopic images of 3D. Wobulation explains the half-pixel overlap I am talking about. The "distance" between two stereoscopic images is not even fixed given 1 still frame: objects closer to you (in 3D space) are actually further apart than objects far away -that's specifically how our two eyes determine Z-axis distance. (And by far apart, we're talking about someone looking at a 3D screen WITHOUT glasses.) The spread you do with Ctrl+F3 and Ctrl+F4 is just a scaling of those relative distances (far/near) to increase the depth phenomenon.
3D is always about displaying two images. Some implementations use scan lines (every other horizontal line shows 1 of the 2 stereoscopic images). Some implementations, like the Mitsubishi DLPs, use wobulated images: two 960x1080 images, each spread out to 1920x1080, the second offset by 1/2 a pixel from the first.
I had 3D shutter glasses that worked with any DirectX game 9 or 10 years ago.