2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 11280 Old 06-14-2009, 10:51 PM
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It seems lots of people use "The Dark Knight" (Batman) to show-off black levels and shadow detail, so I will use that for one reference. I will also check out the strobe scene in "Silence of the Lambs" to see how the iris handles it, as Geo suggested.

What else can I test guys?

According to owners of previous models with the iris, there's not supposed to be any difference for bright scenes, sports, talk-shows, etc.

One day at a time...
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post #452 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 12:17 AM
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So I got my replacement 73837 on Saturday and it was night and day in comparison to my original one. The geometry was pretty much perfect, definitely not whacked out like the previous one. It is also whisper quiet and makes absolutely no audible noise. So it looks like my original 73837 was pretty much a lemon.

However, Ken Crane's were great in setting up the swap out of the old machine and I'm now a happy camper.

I ran my Spyder on the TV tonight and the results were interesting. I had the TV running previously on the out of the box torch mode. So the out of the box settings were:

Picture Mode: Brilliant
Contrast: 63
Brightness: 31
Colour: 31
Tint: 31
Colour Temp: High

After running the Spyder, twice, I came up with the following settings:

Picture Mode: Brilliant
Contrast: 53
Brightness: 35
Colour: 23
Tint: 17
Colour Temp: Low

The picture is much improved now and way easier on the eyes.
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post #453 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 06:03 AM
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Cool, EvilEuro. The early 837's seem to require some vigilance (rather than trust) on getting a good one. I hope that improves over time.

I see you went with Brilliant. I suspect Brilliant vs Natural is going to result in significant differences in what looks good on the other settings, particularly color and tint.
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post #454 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 02:11 PM
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I was thinking that there would be no difference in what the final results were since they only difference between Brilliant, Natural and whatever the third option was is the preset values for colour, contrast, brightness, colour temp and tint. And since all of the values changed out it looks much more like looking through a window (especially when watching Planet Earth) than it did before.

Just for fun though I'll re-run the Spyder tonight on the other settings and see what we come up with and if there's any difference in the numbers it spits out based upon each preset.
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post #455 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 02:28 PM
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Well, I do know the owner's manual says you have to set Natural/Low Temp to get 6500k. So my assumption is being Brilliant/Low Temp you aren't at 6500k and must be adjusting elsewhere to get closer on colors. But yes, test data beats theory every time.
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post #456 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 03:29 PM
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My new WD-65737 was just delivered. Looks great, by the way!

I'm using a programmable universal remote (It's the Aeros MX-850 from Univeral Remote Control for those who care). The IR database for this TV includes discrete buttons to select various inputs:
Input-1, Input-2, Input-3, Input-4 as well as DTV-1, DTV-2, Comp-1 and Comp-2.

I realize these button names are dreamed-up by the guy who created the IR database entry for the remote, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to connect anything to the Input-1 through Input-4 inputs.

When I press the button on the remote for Input-1, the TV displays that it is using Input-1 - which all seems fine. What I don't understand is how I assign Input-1 to what I've got plugged-in to the back of the TV.

I've plugged by Blu-Ray player into HDMI-1 on the TV, and went through the normal input recognition process, selecting the input name of Blu-Ray. However, none of the discrete input buttons on the remote cause the TV to select this input.

After playing with it for a while, I've found that the "DTV-1" button on the remote causes the TV to select the HDMI-3 input, and the "DTV-2" on the remote causes the TV to select the HDMI-2 input.

I can plug the Blu-Ray player into HDMI-2 and get that to work, but what do I need to do to utilize the TV's Input-1 through Input-4 inputs? Is there a way to assign the HDMI-1 jack on the back of the TV to the TV's Input-1 input?

At this point, I think I only need two HDMI inputs on the TV, so that fact that I can discretely select HDMI-2 and HDMI-3 will be enough to get me going (I think), but I sure would like to understand what these other inputs are used for.

I hope that's making sense.

Thanks,
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post #457 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post

My new WD-65737 was just delivered. Looks great, by the way!

I'm using a programmable universal remote (It's the Aeros MX-850 from Univeral Remote Control for those who care). The IR database for this TV includes discrete buttons to select various inputs:
Input-1, Input-2, Input-3, Input-4 as well as DTV-1, DTV-2, Comp-1 and Comp-2.

[ snip ]

After playing with this some more, I think I understand it a little better now.

This TV has two sets of combined Component/Composite inputs on the back, labeled Input-1 and Input-2. Although the TV allows me to select Input-3 and Input-4, I don't know what these represent. If someone knows, I sure would like to find out.

So far, I'm able to select between two of the three HDMI inputs and the two component/composite inputs.

At this point, I think I just don't know how to select the HDMI-1 input with the discrete codes that come with my universal remote.

Is it possible to have the TV select HDMI-1 when Input-3 or Input-4 is selected?


Thanks,
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post #458 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 04:39 PM
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I have the WD-65737 and am trying to install it into my home theater.

I have the following content which needs to go to the TV, based on the source selected:

HDMI from the blu-ray player
HDMI from the HD DVR (DirecTV)
Component video from another DVR machine
Composite video from a PC application (home juke box)

Because my AVR can't switch all of these, I was just going to connect the video portions directly to the TV inputs. The audio portions will go to the AVR and it will handle switching them, as it has all along.

I have my universal remote (URC Aeros MX-850) configured with a set of main "activity" buttons. If I want to watch the HD DVR, I press the button and it takes care of all the component setup, which includes:

- turning on the AVR
- switching the AVR to the proper input(s)
- turning on the TV
- switching the TV to the proper input
- etc.

The problem is that when the TV is off, it can take a minute or more after getting the "On" signal before its willing to listen to any input switch commands.

Obviously, I can't just encode a 1 (or more) minute delay into the macro sent by the remote, as this would be awful when the TV is already on and you just want to switch to a different source.

The only thing I can think to do is hit my macro button, wait for the TV to boot up, then hit the macro button again.

Is there a better solution to this?

Note that the various "sources" stay hot - that is to say that the composite signal from the PC is always "on", the HDMI from the HD DVR is always on, etc., so I can't take advantage of any feature of the TV to automatically sense which input is active and switch automatically.

Thanks for any help.
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post #459 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 05:43 PM
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Just had a WD-65737 delivered a couple of days ago. Today after about a couple of hours of viewing regular TV, it shut itself off with a constant red light. The manual says a constant red light means the TV may need service!

I was able to turn the set off with remote and turn it on again. However, I'm not sure if it's an ominous sign that the red light comes on so early into my ownership...

Anybody else experiencing the red light yet?
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post #460 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blahsome View Post

Just had a WD-65737 delivered a couple of days ago. Today after about a couple of hours of viewing regular TV, it shut itself off with a constant red light. The manual says a constant red light means the TV may need service!

I was able to turn the set off with remote and turn it on again. However, I'm not sure if it's an ominous sign that the red light comes on so early into my ownership...

Anybody else experiencing the red light yet?

Did the lights dim? Maybe a momentary power outage?
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post #461 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 06:53 PM
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I've never had a 65-inch TV before... and now I have 2.

Frankly, I'm considering keeping both, and just locking myself away in this room for a while.

I really don't need a job... or showers... or human contact.

Those things are over-rated.

You guys can understand that, right?

And.. you see how this makes me special now, too... Right?

I mean... we can still be friends, and everything... but I will be twice as cool as everyone else.

Maybe I could be like a DLP superhero, and have a nickname... something awesome like... "Twin 65s"... or... "130 Total Inches of Manliness".

YEAH YEAH, this could work!


One day at a time...
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post #462 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

Did the lights dim? Maybe a momentary power outage?

Honestly I'm not sure. Because the screen went blank, and the only light source was far away, the primary effect I experienced was from the TV. If there was one, it was extremely brief, not enough to reset some of the electronic clocks that are normally reset during a prolonged brownout.

Is a momentary power outage known to cause a red light on this unit?
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post #463 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blahsome View Post

Honestly I'm not sure. Because the screen went blank, and the only light source was far away, the primary effect I experienced was from the TV. If there was one, it was extremely brief, not enough to reset some of the electronic clocks that are normally reset during a prolonged brownout.

Is a momentary power outage known to cause a red light on this unit?

I know with anything that has a processor in it, that if there is a power irregularity, it can get hung up and cease to operate normally. I guess I would try to make myself decide not to worry about it unless or until it happens again. If everything is working as it should, it could have just been one of those one time things.
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post #464 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 07:36 PM
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Evil euro, were u able to see any differences after running spyder again? thanks!
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post #465 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happy nightmares View Post

I've never had a 65-inch TV before... and now I have 2.

Frankly, I'm considering keeping both, and just locking myself away in this room for a while.

I really don't need a job... or showers... or human contact.

Those things are over-rated.

You guys can understand that, right?

And.. you see how this makes me special now, too... Right?

I mean... we can still be friends, and everything... but I will be twice as cool as everyone else.

Maybe I could be like a DLP superhero, and have a nickname... something awesome like... "Twin 65s"... or... "130 Total Inches of Manliness".

YEAH YEAH, this could work!


Ok, as long as your computer is in the same room as you and the 130 inches, and you can communicate.... How do they compare?
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post #466 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

How do they compare?

Sorry, I'm being silly.

Just got home from work, and unpacking now. I don't know anything yet.

My challenge at the moment is finding something to set another big TV on, within the same space, so I can watch both at once.

Will update soon.

One day at a time...
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post #467 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happy nightmares View Post

Sorry, I'm being silly.

Just got home from work, and unpacking now. I don't know anything yet.

My challenge at the moment is finding something to set another big TV on, within the same space, so I can watch both at once.

Will update soon.

Silly can be a good thing Looking forward to your perceptions and comparisons, between the two.
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post #468 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilEuro View Post

I had the same problem with my Harmony One, including the little neat bit where it thought the TV was a TV/VCR combo. But that was easily resolved by telling the Harmony that the TV is a WD-73737 instead of the WD-73837. As soon as I did that, everything was just fine. All of the codes to work the TV were just fine, including accessing the HDMI inputs, etc.

So give that a try and it ought to help your Harmony situation. It did with mine.

I'm mystified as to why the HDMI selection codes worked for you, but don't work for me. (I have a 670, but I don't think that should matter.)

In any case, my problem is now solved.

First, Harmony corrected the TvVcr problem and added a WD-73837 device for me. I tried the HDMI selection codes for the new device and, as before, only HDMI-1 worked.

Then I went back and went through the confirm IR codes procedure with the Mitsubishi remote. This caused the Harmony software to select a different code set. (Looks like the older Mitsubishi code set.) This one has several more input selection codes, so I tried them all. I found codes that would select each of the HDMI inputs:

HDMI-1 InputHDMI1
HDMI-2 InputVideo5
HDMI-3 InputDtv
HDMI-4 InputVga

Happiness for the moment.
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post #469 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 09:24 PM
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Guys, you're not going to believe this.... remember earlier in this thread I posted about my severe bowing and out-of-whack geometry in the upper-left corner? Well, since I mostly fixed it, I still noticed I couldn't get it quite right and plus I noticed that the screen was a bit dimmer in the corner than the rest of the screen. Even playing games I noticed a slight tilt in the screen - the left side was lower than the right side especially in the upper half of the screen. Well, tonight I got a little nosy and attempted to remove the screen and have a peek inside. Imagine my surprise when I happen to notice that the left side of the mirror behind the screen was not properly attached to the chassis!! I removed enough of the screws holding the screen and gently snapped the mirror back into the groove. Wa-la!! Geometry issues fixed and no more dimming in the top left either.

I guess it came loose during shipping but I'm really glad it didn't break. I should have taken some pics though.
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post #470 of 11280 Old 06-15-2009, 10:47 PM
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can someone help me? i am trying to take everyones advice from the last 16 pages but something still seems wrong.

whether i am on my dish or playin 360/ps3. the colors still seem wrong.

ie. i am playing ncaa 09 on 360. i am playing against colorado. colorados gold looks more green and clashes with itself. same as any field i am on. it doesnt look like grass, it looks washed out and unrealistic.

and the red, i read about how its bright and stands out on the screen, mine doesnt really look like that. looks more like the reds just bleeding into each other than anything else.

also, if i am watching anything on my dish, the colors on the screen (in genereal) have like a yellowish hue to it. thats if i have the color temp set on low. if its on high everything is too bright.

i have a wd-65737. I have had it a week. i have done all i can but nothing ever comes out right. i still havent been able to find anything online to help. i have no idea where to find an HD dvd or blue ray that will help me calibrate it.

Im just lost. I used to have a 50" lcd philips 1080p television and i didnt have to do much of anything to tweak it. it looked awesome. but a friend told me to jump on this model since it was on sale here in town so i ran with it. i have owned mitsubishi's in the past and always had great luck with them (after being tweaked of course) but this one is just throwing me for a loop.

right now i reset the tv back to the factory settings and sadly it looks closer than i have been able to come up with on my own. it still doesnt look right of course.

I just need to find someone who might have the same tv that i do that has already calibrated theirs.

Its the best solution for me haha.

anyone help me?
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post #471 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 06:56 AM
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Ok, I'm going to post more later when I have time, but just wanted to give a quick first impression.

Dark Detailer -- There is a definite improvement in black levels and detail in dark movie scenes, and dark sections of video games. Things are not just darker, but you can actually 'see' better. Plus, the black bars on top/bottom of the screen when watching letterbox content are also darker, which helps them fade away into the background and causes the content area to pop a little more.

And from what I can tell, it's always ON, including "Game" mode, and regardless of 'picture' mode or temperature. I could not find a way to disable it, but I did not enter the service tech menu. It did not create any lag, and I played a wide variety of games.

I did not notice any issues with scenes going from bright to dark, or dark to bright quickly. For that matter I did not notice any abnormalities with the Dark Detailer at all. Blacks were deep and dark without getting crushed, and things did not feel artificially enhanced. Everything looked and behaved natural. I still need to try the strobe-light scene from "Silence of the Lambs". Unfortunately I could not find my copy last night, so I will look for it when I get home tonight.

I did notice a couple strange things happen with both 737/837... when watching a letterbox movie, there were a couple scenes when light/images would actually show in the black bars, almost like the content was leaking, or spilling over. Both sets exhibited the same behavior in the same scenes. None of them were too distracting, but it was odd, and did momentarily take me out of the 'zone'. What's that about?

Anyway, I have only good things to say about Dark Detailer. It gets a thumbs-up from me.

However, for about 80% of what I watched or played.... tv, movies, games, and normal full-screen viewing, the 2 sets looked exactly the same. The 737 looked every bit as good as the 837, and I could not tell them apart. It's only during those dark moments, and letterbox bars, that DD really shows it stuff.

So, I guess the question remains... is it worth the extra cost...?? (EXAMPLE: 65-inch at Frys: the 737 is $1400, the 837 is $2000, = $600 difference)

Everybody will need to decide that for themselves. I'm not sure yet myself. More testing to come...

One day at a time...
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post #472 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegasRph View Post

I just wanted everone to know, there is a REBATE offer thru Callaway/Odyssey Golf. Depending on which model you purchase, you can get a FREE gift!! Check this out:


http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/promotions.html


http://mitsubishi.linksunlimited.com/


My WD-60737 purchase gets me a NEW putter!!! WOW!! I paid $995.00 for my TV and now I can get a FREE $150.00 Odyssey putter!! SWEET.

The offer is from May 29 - June 21.

VegasRph, I bought the WD 65737 @ Fry's here in Las Vegas about a week ago. Have you played with the color settings yet? I sent in for me new Diablo driver yesterday. Can't wait to get it.... Where do you play golf here in Vegas?
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post #473 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happy nightmares View Post

The 737 looked every bit as good as the 837, and I could not tell them apart. It's only during those dark moments, and letterbox bars, that DD really shows it stuff.

Thanks for the report. It's exactly what I would have expected, but it's good to have that confirmation. As far as the light spillover, I would expect it to be due to internal reflections. Blacking out the interior may help. I did that to my old CRT RPTV (lined the interior with Duvatyne), but haven't done that yet with the DLP.

My dual Rythmik Servo sub project (actually quad now, need to update page)
HDM format neutral thanks to the pricing wars of the '07 xmas shopping season :)
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post #474 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 08:35 AM
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Well, the 837s are still pretty new. Hopefully the discounting will start soon. I'd have less trouble justifying the $500 price premium on a 65837 than the $1,000 price premium on a 73837.

Tho of course Happy is faced with the problem now.

Happy, do you have a hi-res digital camera? Do you think you can get pics of Dark Detailer doing its thang vs a 737 in the same scene?
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post #475 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 09:07 AM
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Thanks for the info., Happy. I really appreciate it. Is there any chance that you could calibrate the gamma for both, then compare? I would like to know the negative effects of Dark Detailer, if any.
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post #476 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 10:58 AM
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Just ordered the 60737 yesterday off amazon! Great deal at 1189, even though its dropped $10 when I checked this morning. Oh well. Hope to have it by Monday!! CANT WAIT
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post #477 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 12:16 PM
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Here's another vote for the service menu de-activation of auto-geometry. After I did it, my '09 737 showed a significant improvement in resolution and no indication of bowing or other geometry problems. My thanks to the thread for this very useful tip.
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post #478 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
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Here's another vote for the service menu de-activation of auto-geometry. After I did it, my '09 737 showed a significant improvement in resolution and no indication of bowing or other geometry problems. My thanks to the thread for this very useful tip.

Well, I did it, but I must say I'm feeling pretty much like I did when I tried various miracle memory optimizers in Windows 3.1 days that friends pushed on me for my own good. If it did anything, I sure didn't notice it! But it didn't do anything bad, so I guess that's okay.
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post #479 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 03:25 PM
 
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Just ordered the 60737 yesterday off amazon! Great deal at 1189, even though its dropped $10 when I checked this morning. Oh well. Hope to have it by Monday!! CANT WAIT

Eh, what's $10 when you're spending $1190 [IMG]http://www.entertainment-place.info/smile/img/2464/*************************[/IMG]
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post #480 of 11280 Old 06-16-2009, 04:18 PM
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Guys, forgive me, but I must bring this up again. I'm still confused, and I don't think I'm alone. I understand the basic concept, but I'm still not sure how one thing relates to another, because it doesn't seem to be as simple as ON/OFF.

Ok, from the top....
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Question -- If we turn off 'auto' geometry correction (aka Keystone) -- does that instantly give us 1:1 pixel mapping (full 1080p) without needing to do anything else?

Question -- If we turn off 'auto' geometry correction (aka Keystone) -- does it then activate 'manual' geometry correction?

Question -- If we tinker with the 'manual' geometry controls (to improve slight issues) -- does that TAKE AWAY 1:1 pixel mapping, in the same way having 'auto' correction takes it away?

Question -- In order to get 1:1 pixel mapping (full 1080p) -- are we NOT supposed to use ANY geometry correction... neither auto OR manual?

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Thanks for your patience and help.

P.S. -- Still catching up on thread, will post/reply again soon.

One day at a time...
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