2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

Is the Dark Detailer the "iris" thing mentioned and is it on all the time?

I don't have it listed because there is no way to disable it or control it.

As far as I can see, there is no reason to. Great picture no matter what time of day/night.
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post #722 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bkwells View Post

Yep. As far as anyone can tell, there is no way to control the iris. But from what I see, there is no reason to turn it off. Great picture no matter what time of day/night.

Did you find when you tried sharp edge or some of the other enhancers that it introduced noise into the picture? The reason I am asking is our Local Best Buy (the only place in our area to see HDTV's) only have a 60" 737 and they have the menus locked in Brilliant with all of the enhancers selected. They are not open to changeing settings for the customer... The BB 60" had noticeable noise in the picture particularly on the outlines of figures.
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post #723 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

Did you find when you tried sharp edge or some of the other enhancers that it introduced noise into the picture? The reason I am asking is our Local Best Buy (the only place in our area to see HDTV's) only have a 60" 737 and they have the menus locked in Brilliant with all of the enhancers selected. They are not open to changeing settings for the customer... The BB 60" had noticeable noise in the picture particularly on the outlines of figures.

Yes. That's why I have them turned off. I actually like the Deep Field Imager though. Doesn't seem to introduce artifacts, but it does seem to increase depth and contrast ratio. Sharpedge sucks along with Brilliant.
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post #724 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bkwells View Post

Yes. That's why I have them turned off. I actually like the Deep Field Imager though. Doesn't seem to introduce artifacts, but it does seem to increase depth and contrast ratio. Sharpedge sucks.

That sounds more hopeful then.. Yes most sharpness contols/enhancers seem to do more damage than good. Have you had a chance to compare your 837 picure with 737 sets? If so how would you describe differences in color richness, depth, contrast etc?
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post #725 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

That sounds more hopeful then.. Yes most sharpness contols/enhancers seem to do more damage than good. Have you had a chance to compare your 837 picure with 737 sets? If so how would you describe differences in color richness, depth, contrast etc?

I haven't seen a 737 in person. However, my previous set was a MITS 62725 DLP and I can say that this new 65837 is a VAST Improvement!
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post #726 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by VegasRph View Post

WHOA!! Way too cool!! Nice to see this write up......I am curious to see how my WD60737 settings are once I start this calibration up with a SONY disc in my BD player.
So it HAS to be a SONY Blu-Ray DVD? (Not an SD/DVD?)

Nice find!!!!!

There is a great AVS freeware calibration disk at this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

You can download the disk image and then burn it to a DVD. I have used it as well as the DVE disk with my LCD.
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post #727 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bkwells View Post

I haven't seen a 737 in person. However, my previous set was a MITS 62725 DLP and I can say that this new 65837 is a VAST Improvement!

Good stuff. You have been very helpful. Thanks for putting up with all of my questions. I am starting to get enough information where hopefully I can make a semi informed choice/decision... I think I am leaning towards the 73837.
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post #728 of 11285 Old 06-26-2009, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

Good stuff. You have been very helpful. Thanks for putting up with all of my questions. I am starting to get enough information where hopefully I can make a semi informed choice/decision... I think I am leaning towards the 73837.

Happy to help. Good luck out there!
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post #729 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 07:45 AM
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Can anyone that's using an AVR as an HDMI switcher or scaler please list what model they're using? I ask this because I had gone through two different Denon 4310CI that each had issues with HDCP handshaking between it and my 73837. I took the second 4310 back to Abt yesterday and tried it out on their 73837 floor model to make sure it wasn't just my TV. The same problems occured on the floor model even with a different Blu-ray player, but not on a Sharp LCD. This told us that the 4310 and the 73837 just weren't going to play well together. This isn't really surprising since they are both brand new models and HDMI is finicky at best. So I bought an Onkyo 876 and it's been working fine so far. I think I like the Denon, but the blinking pictures were driving me insane and I really don't want to wait for either Mitsu or Denon to release new firmware to fix it as that could take forever.

Even though each person's setup might not work for somebody else we can at least get an idea of what combos seem to work and which don't (yet at least).

Working:
Mitsu 73837
Onkyo 876 AVR
Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray

Buggy:
Denon 4310CI
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post #730 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sluffo View Post

Can anyone that's using an AVR as an HDMI switcher or scaler please list what model they're using? I ask this because I had gone through two different Denon 4310CI that each had issues with HDCP handshaking between it and my 73837. I took the second 4310 back to Abt yesterday and tried it out on their 73837 floor model to make sure it wasn't just my TV. The same problems occured on the floor model even with a different Blu-ray player, but not on a Sharp LCD. This told us that the 4310 and the 73837 just weren't going to play well together. This isn't really surprising since they are both brand new models and HDMI is finicky at best. So I bought an Onkyo 876 and it's been working fine so far. I think I like the Denon, but the blinking pictures were driving me insane and I really don't want to wait for either Mitsu or Denon to release new firmware to fix it as that could take forever.

Even though each person's setup might not work for somebody else we can at least get an idea of what combos seem to work and which don't (yet at least).

Working:
Mitsu 73837
Onkyo 876 AVR
Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray

Buggy:
Denon 4310CI

Well this really sucks as I was planning on getting the Denon 4310. My current receiver is an outdated Denon 5600.
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post #731 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 01:01 PM
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I'm having one problem with my WD-73837 that I wonder if anyone else has seen. I have one component, a DIRECTV HR10-250, connected via component video. Sometimes when I switch to it the picture is very jerky, sort of like it is displaying about 2-4 frames per second. If I switch the TV to one of the HDMI inputs and then back to Video1 the problem usually goes away. Occasionally I have had to do it twice to make the problem go away.

I've not seen this on any of the HDMI inputs.
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post #732 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bkwells View Post

Well this really sucks as I was planning on getting the Denon 4310. My current receiver is an outdated Denon 5600.

I tried two different 4310s and each had different problems with handshaking. You could always try and you might get lucky...or I had strangely horrible luck. If I thought either company would resolve the issue via firmware any time soon I'd still have the 4310. I will say that in both cases I was able to figure out a workaround for any handshaking problems but they were more of a pain than I was willing to deal with for things that cost that much.
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post #733 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by VegasRph View Post

For $150, I would go with the 65" (WD65737). As long as you have room for it......go for it.

I have the WD60737 and I am a HUGE fan of this TV. I have PS3 hooked up to it now.......it used to be hooked up to my Samsung 46" 720p DLP, but the Mitsu looks GREAT w/PS3.

***Remember, you will have to mess with the TV settings once you get it home: Natural Picture Mode + LOW temp setting will be your first step in the right direction. Next, turn ON the 120Hz refresh rate. Then check your other Picture Options......

Got it home and hooked up. Wow this thing is HUGE!!! I ran calibration with the AVIA disc and my THX Blue filter glasses through my Upscaling DVD player as I do not have a BluRay player. My Settings are as follows

Picture Mode: Natural
Contrast: 47
Brightness: 33
Color: 25
Tint: 27
Sharpness: 13
Color Temp: Low
Sharpedge: on
Deepfield Imager: On
Smooth 120Hz: Off (I did not like the artifacting effect this had on the picture. I think it made the Rainbow effect worse also.)

I can see the rainbow every once in awhile, but hopefully I will get used to it. I am just trying to ignore it.

I took some pics of some of the games I play too but I fear the pics are not very good. I'll try to get some better ones.
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #734 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by toneloc2121 View Post

I love my kds-r60xbr1. I think for its age it still produces one of the best pictures out there. however i would like to go bigger as long as i don't have to sacrifice picture quality.

assuming that tv came out 5 years ago, i am assuming these mitsus can perform at least as equal.

Haven't done much research on tv's lately (been content with my sony). are tweaked mitsu dlps comparable to tweaked plasmas or lcds.

I know I would take my sony picture over just about any plasma or lcd out there.

Also looking at the 65 inch panny plasmas, especially the new ones coming out later this year (of course the dlp would save me a few grand).



thanks for your thoughts.


Does your KDS 60XBR1 do 1080p or have HDMI inputs? I cant remember if they do, but that is something you would want that the newer sets have. However that being said I now have the Panasonic Viera TH-65PZ850U 65 and I am selling it because I am not happy with the picture and am going to get the 73837. They just came out in my area and I am quite impressed with the PQ and SIZE! I had a KDS-R70XBR2 and sold it to go with the Panny plasma...big mistake...the Panny cant touch the PQ I had with the XBR2....the blacks were better but that was about it.
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post #735 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sluffo View Post

Can anyone that's using an AVR as an HDMI switcher or scaler please list what model they're using? I ask this because I had gone through two different Denon 4310CI that each had issues with HDCP handshaking between it and my 73837. I took the second 4310 back to Abt yesterday and tried it out on their 73837 floor model to make sure it wasn't just my TV. The same problems occured on the floor model even with a different Blu-ray player, but not on a Sharp LCD. This told us that the 4310 and the 73837 just weren't going to play well together. This isn't really surprising since they are both brand new models and HDMI is finicky at best. So I bought an Onkyo 876 and it's been working fine so far. I think I like the Denon, but the blinking pictures were driving me insane and I really don't want to wait for either Mitsu or Denon to release new firmware to fix it as that could take forever.

Even though each person's setup might not work for somebody else we can at least get an idea of what combos seem to work and which don't (yet at least).

Working:
Mitsu 73837
Onkyo 876 AVR
Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray

Buggy:
Denon 4310CI

I just hooked up my WD-73737 today. I am using an Okyo TX-NR905 as an HDMI switcher. I have only had it about 6 hours, but it switches fine between my dvd, HD-DVD and Blu-Ray players. I have the HDMI out from the Onkyo to the HDMI input 3 on the Mits.

Joe
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post #736 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Startrout View Post

I'm trying to decide on whether to purchase the 82837 Mitsubishi when it finally ships or a 65" Panasonic Plasma (not sure if I'll wait on the new one or grab one of the good deals on the current ones - thoughts?). The price of the Mitsubishi and the Panasonic are pretty close so thats not a big factor, and those seem to be the only two to consider for me now.

Just for reference, the TV I'm replacing is a Sony Qualia 70" rp which had an amazing picture and was built like a rolls royce. But unfortunately, it got the common optical engine failure that has plagued Sony rp sets and costs as much to fix as one of the new sets listed above cost to purchase.

I love the idea of the 82" Mitsubishi, but I don't want a worse picture than I currently have (is it worse?). The Panasonic looks very good at the store, but I'm not big on getting a smaller set than I own now (70"). Hmm.... help/thoughts?

Sorry to hear about your Qualia 006. If there ever was a 'best HDTV ever made' the Qualia was it. Its going to be hard finding a picture better than the Qualia!!
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post #737 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 05:28 PM
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I can't wait for someone to post a review of the Mits 82"

Hal
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post #738 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sluffo View Post

Can anyone that's using an AVR as an HDMI switcher or scaler please list what model they're using? I ask this because I had gone through two different Denon 4310CI that each had issues with HDCP handshaking between it and my 73837. I took the second 4310 back to Abt yesterday and tried it out on their 73837 floor model to make sure it wasn't just my TV. The same problems occured on the floor model even with a different Blu-ray player, but not on a Sharp LCD. This told us that the 4310 and the 73837 just weren't going to play well together. This isn't really surprising since they are both brand new models and HDMI is finicky at best. So I bought an Onkyo 876 and it's been working fine so far. I think I like the Denon, but the blinking pictures were driving me insane and I really don't want to wait for either Mitsu or Denon to release new firmware to fix it as that could take forever.

Even though each person's setup might not work for somebody else we can at least get an idea of what combos seem to work and which don't (yet at least).

Working:
Mitsu 73837
Onkyo 876 AVR
Oppo BDP-83 Blu-Ray

Buggy:
Denon 4310CI

I have the 65737 and the Sony STR-DG910 and the TV automatically detected the Receiver and controls the volume without any other setup except turning on the CEC.
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post #739 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by thadly_j View Post

Got it home and hooked up. Wow this thing is HUGE!!! I ran calibration with the AVIA disc and my THX Blue filter glasses through my Upscaling DVD player as I do not have a BluRay player. My Settings are as follows

Picture Mode: Natural
Contrast: 47
Brightness: 33
Color: 25
Tint: 27
Sharpness: 13
Color Temp: Low
Sharpedge: on
Deepfield Imager: On
Smooth 120Hz: Off (I did not like the artifacting effect this had on the picture. I think it made the Rainbow effect worse also.)

I can see the rainbow every once in awhile, but hopefully I will get used to it. I am just trying to ignore it.

I took some pics of some of the games I play too but I fear the pics are not very good. I'll try to get some better ones.



Very cool pics!!! Congrats on the NEW Mitsu DLP!! Now.......go to Sam's Club or Costco......or off the web and get yourself a Panasonic BD60k or 80k BLU-RAY player!!! Your new TV deserves BLU-RAY!!!! Once you see (and hear) Blu-Ray DVDs & HD Audio............you are gonna fall over!!

Very cool new TV. ENJOY!!!!
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post #740 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by thadly_j View Post

Got it home and hooked up. Wow this thing is HUGE!!! I ran calibration with the AVIA disc and my THX Blue filter glasses through my Upscaling DVD player as I do not have a BluRay player. My Settings are as follows

Picture Mode: Natural
Contrast: 47
Brightness: 33
Color: 25
Tint: 27
Sharpness: 13
Color Temp: Low
Sharpedge: on
Deepfield Imager: On
Smooth 120Hz: Off (I did not like the artifacting effect this had on the picture. I think it made the Rainbow effect worse also.)

I can see the rainbow every once in awhile, but hopefully I will get used to it. I am just trying to ignore it.

I took some pics of some of the games I play too but I fear the pics are not very good. I'll try to get some better ones.

I surprised you left SharpEdge on. IMHO sharpedge introduces more artifacts than Smooth 120Hz.

Thanks for the pics!
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post #741 of 11285 Old 06-27-2009, 11:03 PM
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Hey I am a new owner of the WD60737 and I am glad I found this thread. I've had it for 4 or 5 days now and i am pretty pleased. I live in a town of about 15,000 in Oklahoma, NE of Tulsa and I purchased the TV at a place called Westco which is a local chain in the NEOK, Missouri and Kansas area. They sell mostly furniture and appliances but also TV's. I paid $1,399 for it and felt fine about it because the best price I had seen was $1,299 on BestBuy and Amazon. They gave me no interest financing for a year and I have bought stuff from there before and paid it off easily. However the next day I found this site and saw all the people buying it from Ultimate Electronics for $1,000. They do price matching but only within 50 miles and Tulsa is probably about 70 miles away. They are supposed to call me back tomorrow and hopefully give me some kind of deal. I also purchased a really nice Ashley Furniture TV stand that looks great and fits in really nicely with the rest of my furniture. I will post a picture soon.



But anyway I am very pleased with the picture quality thru my PS3 while watching blu-rays and even upscaled DVD's. However I still not exactly 100% happy while watching HD ch's on DTV. Not displeased by any means just not quite getting an overall setting I am 100% happy with. I have come up from a 46 in Sony RP LCD that was 3 1/2 years old. I liked that TV quite a bit and it had a little more pop to it and I had it properly set picture wise, although never professionally calibrated.

My current settings are...

Picture Mode: Natural
Color Temp: Low
Video Noise: Off (I've turned this on occasionally as I sometimes feel it can reduce some noise on Sports Center and programs like that)
Sharp Edge: Off (only thing I've really noticed is it sometimes will brighten or sharpen the look of text on screen, although sometimes I feel it reduces some detail in faces, or is that my imagination?)
DeepField Imager: On (absolutely feel like this improves the pic slightly)

Contrast:40
Brightness:25
Color:40
Tint: 31
Sharpness:15

I have messed with these settings quite a bit and for most sporting events feel like these are the best. I haven't really touched the tint at all though. Also I have not ran any kind of calibration disc as I don't have any experience with it. But I have tried others advice on here on the settings and at least right now I feel like these settings work for me the most.

Oh and I have Smooth 120hz on but I can't tell much of a difference on or off either way.

I have looked at the other options in the picture menu but I am a bit too intimidated to mess with any of those.

However I have really tried to pay attention to all the stuff on here about the geomery issues and what not but it's a bit overwhelming when you just joined the forum and have little understand of it all.

I am not exactly sure if I have any of the issues if I had not read about them I might not have noticed anything but the only thing I see so far is when I use my DTV menus on guide and the DVR list I feel like their MIGHT be a slight bowing effect in the center, but I am not really sure if it's just my imagination.

If anyone could simply advise me if I should turn anything in that special menu on or off I would greatly appreciate it as I feel like there is conflicting information on what I have read so far.

Thanks for listening!
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post #742 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 05:33 AM
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Sharp Edge -- I believe the experts would tell us to leave this feature OFF when adjusting main settings, contrast and sharpness, or doing a calibration. This feature is only useful in certain situations and sources, not all the time. It often creates OVER-sharpening of the image, causing things to look harsh or jagged.

I've noticed a couple people have done quick calibrations and posted their settings, leaving this feature ON, which resulted in their regular sharpness setting being turned down very low, far below default 31, which I don't believe is what we should be doing.

I think we should set/calibrate our TVs using only the normal adjustments (contrast, color, sharpness, etc.) and not using the 'enhancement' features.

Then... after you've done your picture using only the normal adjustments, to produce consistent across-the-board performance... if you still feel like something is lacking with a certain source, THEN you toggle on/off the enhancement features as needed.

I believe this is how we should do it.

Of course I could be totally wrong.

One day at a time...
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post #743 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gspence View Post

However I have really tried to pay attention to all the stuff on here about the geomery issues and what not but it's a bit overwhelming when you just joined the forum and have little understand of it all.

I am not exactly sure if I have any of the issues if I had not read about them I might not have noticed anything but the only thing I see so far is when I use my DTV menus on guide and the DVR list I feel like their MIGHT be a slight bowing effect in the center, but I am not really sure if it's just my imagination.

Best advice is, if you don't see it...don't go looking for it. As long as it looks good to you it's fine. It sounds like you did everything right so sit back and enjoy your set.
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post #744 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 05:08 PM
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Hey all, proud new owner of a wd-65737 here! Unfortunately, my stand has not come in yet so I have no place to put it, but just wanted to chime in because I am so excited about this purchase!
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post #745 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happy nightmares View Post

Sharp Edge -- I believe the experts would tell us to leave this feature OFF when adjusting main settings, contrast and sharpness, or doing a calibration. This feature is only useful in certain situations and sources, not all the time. It often creates OVER-sharpening of the image, causing things to look harsh or jagged.

I've noticed a couple people have done quick calibrations and posted their settings, leaving this feature ON, which resulted in their regular sharpness setting being turned down very low, far below default 31, which I don't believe is what we should be doing.

I think we should set/calibrate our TVs using only the normal adjustments (contrast, color, sharpness, etc.) and not using the 'enhancement' features.

Then... after you've done your picture using only the normal adjustments, to produce consistent across-the-board performance... if you still feel like something is lacking with a certain source, THEN you toggle on/off the enhancement features as needed.

I believe this is how we should do it.

Of course I could be totally wrong.

I completely agree. Set the TV with all the enhancers OFF, so that you are setting the true, clean picture, then turn whatever enhancements on that you feel make the picture look better.
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post #746 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 05:24 PM
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I picked up a 65737 a few days ago. Fantastic, detailed picture but the black levels arent the best. Im returning the set & upgrading to the 837 model to get the dynamic iris. From the posts I read the iris does wonder for the black levels.
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post #747 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tboo View Post

I picked up a 65737 a few days ago. Fantastic, detailed picture but the black levels arent the best. Im returning the set & upgrading to the 837 model to get the dynamic iris. From the posts I read the iris does wonder for the black levels.

I'm in the market for a 65737 also. I've been researching this forum for a couple weeks now. I initially thought I wanted the -837 series, but I can't justify the cost difference. I've been watching the price fluctuations daily on Amazon. The best deal seems to be $1425, with free shipping from Amazon. Has anyone found a better deal online? I don't have a retailer that carries this set in my area, so I'm stuck with internet ordering.

Also, any idea if Mitsubishi will be offering any sales/rebates in the near future? I was hoping there might be a July 4th promotion in the works, but I haven't seen anything yet. I missed out on the Callaway golf club offer that ended last weekend.
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post #748 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 08:28 PM
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Anyone have any advice on settings for perfect color or Advance Picture, or did most of you leave those alone? Right now I am fine with the way things are but I know there is room for improvement. I'm considering having it professionally calibrated in the near future, but would still like some help just to see if I can improve on what I already have.
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post #749 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 09:17 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpostgate View Post

I'm in the market for a 65737 also. I've been researching this forum for a couple weeks now. I initially thought I wanted the -837 series, but I can't justify the cost difference. I've been watching the price fluctuations daily on Amazon. The best deal seems to be $1425, with free shipping from Amazon. Has anyone found a better deal online? I don't have a retailer that carries this set in my area, so I'm stuck with internet ordering

http://www.us-appliance.com/wd65736....hannelid=FROOG

Fry's has them for $1399 in store as well.
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post #750 of 11285 Old 06-28-2009, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gspence View Post

Anyone have any advice on settings for perfect color or Advance Picture, or did most of you leave those alone? Right now I am fine with the way things are but I know there is room for improvement. I'm considering having it professionally calibrated in the near future, but would still like some help just to see if I can improve on what I already have.

I would leave those alone. Those are only useful if you have a way to take measurements. Perfect color mainly affects the saturation and gain of each color. Advance Picture will affect grayscale and color x,y coordinates. You typically don't want to mess with that stuff unless you know what you're doing as you can easily make the picture worse instead of better.

However, as long as you keep note of the defaults, it's never a bad thing to experiment to see just how each value changes things. If you have a calibration disc, you can bring up a gray scale ramp pattern and a smpte pattern for primaries and secondaries to see what happens when you make changes there. It's cool to see and it's a nice learning experience.

I do highly recommend a calibration. These sets are all different due to each bulb having its own unique qualities. A properly calibrated DLP displays a very amazing picture. Also, I'm not saying this just because I calibrate. I also own a DLP and I have seen this myself with each bulb I replace.
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