2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 02:40 PM
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Ultimate Electronics still has the great $995 price on the 60737 through the holiday weekend, but price on the others is nothing special.


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post #812 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post

Here in Maryland the 73837 is going for $2450 at the Big screen store. BB wants $2999.
The sales person at Big Screen stores says Mitsubishi if allowing them to take another $160 off the Diamond series (8XX) on a 4th of July sale.

It's a good thing I don't live in Maryland. I would have to take advantage of that price!
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post #813 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bama29 View Post

It's a good thing I don't live in Maryland. I would have to take advantage of that price!

You could call them and put in an order...I dont know what your shipping would be tho.
I went ahead and put in an order in for the 73837 and hope to have it delivered this Friday.
I will takes some pics after I get it up and running. I really like the ability to get into some of the ADV 1-2 settings...this set is so customizable, which means I will probably drive myself crazy playing with all the different choices. Have to dig out my Blu-ray calibration DVD.
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post #814 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post

You could call them and put in an order...I dont know what you shipping would be tho.
I went ahead and put in an order in for the 73837 and hope to have it delivered this Friday.
I will takes some pics after I get it up and running. I really like the ability to get into some of the ADV 1-2 settings...this set is so customizable, which means I will probably drive myself crazy playing with all the different choices. Have to dig out my Blu-ray calibration DVD.

Sounds like you got a great deal! Looking forward to your thoughts and pictures of your new baby
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post #815 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbug View Post

Please, report the sightings AT Once. I haven't jumped yet cause I'm waiting on BB to get the 837 to go along with their 3 year no financing. So anyone seeing the 837 at the store or on the website hit the morse code keys for S.O.S.

Have seen the 73837 at 3 BB stores here in Maryland. They also show it in their inventory. Been out for about 10 days in stores.
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post #816 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 03:28 PM
 
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Originally Posted by georule View Post

Ultimate Electronics still has the great $995 price on the 60737 through the holiday weekend, but price on the others is nothing special.

Omg really? Do they ship to TX? Better yet, would a TX BB or frys price match them? If so I'll order tonight!
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post #817 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jbug View Post

Thanks for the post Martinefski. I had been calling BB every now and then to see if they were going to carry the 73837 but every time they said they didn't know. Most BBs (brick & mortar) don't even stock them, what city are you located in?

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Originally Posted by jbug View Post

Thanks for the post Martinefski. I had been calling BB every now and then to see if they were going to carry the 73837 but every time they said they didn't know. Most BBs (brick & mortar) don't even stock them, what city are you located in?


I live just outside Denver, although I really don't think most if any BB's anywhere are carring them or will carry them. Now nobody actually told me this, but I have a feeling the TV I bought was a cancellation. Because this Best Buy did not have a single Mitsubishi DLP on display, they just had this one huge box setting on the floor with a price tag setting on top of it. I was quite shocked it was the 73837 model.

I know some people here may disagree with me on this, but I would be very supprised if with a little fancy talking you could not get your local Best Buy to order you one at a very good price, at least as good as any price you may have seen it advertized on the web. Go to a couple different stores if you have to, I am sure somebody will bite.

Try not to come off as cheap but rather confident you could get one some place else if they don't want to help. Say something like "hey I am shopping around and I know where I could get an xx837 for X amount is there any way you could come close to that"? See what they say, I would be supprised if they did not say sure we can match that.

Good luck!
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post #818 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

The other guy reported his $2k 73837 bonanza was from a local HHGregg (their online presence lists them at $2,530).


......and it was still listed for $2999. The price dropped to $2530 about a week later.
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post #819 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 04:06 PM
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I almost have 200 hours on it, so I will calibrate soon.

Something for everyone to chew on, that I haven't seen mentioned here. Look up "blue only mode" on Google or your favorite search engine. Look for calibration info using the Blue Only mode in the advanced picture menu. It looks like those who don't have equipment can get a pretty good picture by using it instead of buying a calibration disc and using the gels.

Also, I would thinkl those of us who DO have cal equipment can use this for our initial color settings before running the colors through calibration. I'd say that you can set gray scale, and then use Blue Only to set Color and Tint close before adjusting individual colors.

I'm going to play with it, because my initial cal is off a good bit in the colors because that pesky blue is giving me trouble.

Another thing to note for xx837 owners. I haven't found it anywhere fo0r confirmation, but I think to get ADV1 and ADV2 to change to Day or Night, you have to save the calibration to USB, located in the 2457 service menu, followed by 0. (where manual geometry is).

I have to find my USB flash drive to see if that's how to set Day or Night.
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post #820 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 04:32 PM
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Thanks for the response georule. I'll definitely let you all know the outcome.

I do want to mention one other issue I noticed today with the WD-60737. When I was using the ps3 browser, it looked like it was on a slight slant. It's hardly noticeable, but it's easier to tell when there's a straight line going from left to right near the top of the screen. It seems like the line moves slightly upward on an angle from left to right. I've read through this forum to find some answers, and it may seem that others have experienced this issue, but I'm not completely sure.

I would greatly it if anyone can give me some idea of what the issue is, and if possible, how to fix it.

Also, does anyone know if these TV's are known for overscan? I could be wrong on this, but for some reason I do notice this at times.

I feel like I'm nitpicking because I would still be more than happy if these issues weren't resolved, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to face huge hurdles when my warranty runs out.

Thanks to everyone for the great information posted on this thread. I hope I can contribute to this thread in some way and hopefully help out others.
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post #821 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwright84 View Post

Omg really? Do they ship to TX? Better yet, would a TX BB or frys price match them? If so I'll order tonight!

I suppose you could try. There are three UE in Oklahoma (one in Tulsa, two in OK City), but none in Texas.


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post #822 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by avlogic View Post

Thanks for the response georule. I'll definitely let you all know the outcome.

I do want to mention one other issue I noticed today with the WD-60737. When I was using the ps3 browser, it looked like it was on a slight slant. It's hardly noticeable, but it's easier to tell when there's a straight line going from left to right near the top of the screen. It seems like the line moves slightly upward on an angle from left to right. I've read through this forum to find some answers, and it may seem that others have experienced this issue, but I'm not completely sure.

Yeah, that definitely sounds like geometry, which has been discussed at length upstream if you wish to take a crack at fixing it yourself. Go back into the 190s on post count in this thread for some discussion.


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post #823 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 06:13 PM
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LOOKING GREAT!! What a SWEET PICTURE!
CONGRATS!!

Looks purple.
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post #824 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Bulb life would be more affected by having it set to Brilliant or having Contrast too high.

i think this is unlikely to have any noticable effect on the time before failure of a lamp.
The thing that will effect it the most is the energy setting to ...i think its called standard (or maybe normal).
I believe its default out of the box in that mode, but some tinkerers may have turned it to bright becuase they thought they needed a brighter picture.

I found that changing to bright makes no noticable difference and absolutely should be set to standard. probably save 1000+ hours on lamp life in that mode.


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post #825 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 06:53 PM
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My 73837 is up and running. I have done a quick calibration and the picture is fantastic. It makes my old 65413 look so washed out. The blacks are as advertised and the crispness of the picture rivals plasma.

Now get ready for the other shoe to fall. I am very disappointed in the non-reflective screen. My family room gets a lot of indirect sun light. The glare is agonizing. It's possible my expectations were too high, but it was my only opportunity for an upgrade and I took it. No, we don't like to live with the curtains closed all the time.

My family and friends had a pool going on how long this set would last before I returned it. Who would have thought it would last only five hours :-] The person with 17 days wins.

My daughter also says I can't talk about TV's for the entire month of July - LOL

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post #826 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 07:22 PM
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When I bought my 60737, , I was told that if you only used the extended warranty to buy replacement bulbs, and did not require a technician visit, you would get a $150 in-store credit at the end of the warranty.
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post #827 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retrace144 View Post

My 73837 is up and running. I have done a quick calibration and the picture is fantastic. It makes my old 65413 look so washed out. The blacks are as advertised and the crispness of the picture rivals plasma.

Now get ready for the other shoe to fall. I am very disappointed in the non-reflective screen. My family room gets a lot of indirect sun light. The glare is agonizing. It's possible my expectations were too high, but it was my only opportunity for an upgrade and I took it. No, we don't like to live with the curtains closed all the time.

My family and friends had a pool going on how long this set would last before I returned it. Who would have thought it would last only five hours :-] The person with 17 days wins.

My daughter also says I can't talk about TV's for the entire month of July - LOL

Wow! I am sorry things did not work out well for you. The reflections must have been very bad.
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post #828 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by trapperjohnMD View Post

I found that changing to bright makes no noticable difference and absolutely should be set to standard. probably save 1000+ hours on lamp life in that mode.

I found no difference in the setting too. So much so that I'm very curious what the difference is. I'm wondering now if we might see a difference on a "middle-aged" bulb? Maybe that Bright setting is a way to get a fading-but-not-dead bulb to give some more oomph?

Otherwise I'm quite puzzled what the point is of that setting. I mean surely the point can't be "Raises your electricity bill and reduces your expensive bulb life while providing no actual discernible benefit!"


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post #829 of 11280 Old 06-30-2009, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retrace144 View Post

My 73837 is up and running. I have done a quick calibration and the picture is fantastic. It makes my old 65413 look so washed out. The blacks are as advertised and the crispness of the picture rivals plasma.

Now get ready for the other shoe to fall. I am very disappointed in the non-reflective screen. My family room gets a lot of indirect sun light. The glare is agonizing. It's possible my expectations were too high, but it was my only opportunity for an upgrade and I took it. No, we don't like to live with the curtains closed all the time.

My family and friends had a pool going on how long this set would last before I returned it. Who would have thought it would last only five hours :-] The person with 17 days wins.

My daughter also says I can't talk about TV's for the entire month of July - LOL

You returned it?
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post #830 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by retrace144 View Post

My 73837 is up and running. I have done a quick calibration and the picture is fantastic. It makes my old 65413 look so washed out. The blacks are as advertised and the crispness of the picture rivals plasma.

Now get ready for the other shoe to fall. I am very disappointed in the non-reflective screen. My family room gets a lot of indirect sun light. The glare is agonizing. It's possible my expectations were too high, but it was my only opportunity for an upgrade and I took it. No, we don't like to live with the curtains closed all the time.

My family and friends had a pool going on how long this set would last before I returned it. Who would have thought it would last only five hours :-] The person with 17 days wins.

My daughter also says I can't talk about TV's for the entire month of July - LOL


Odd.

I've always been less pleased with reflective (shiny) screens because they have more glare. The less-reflective screen disperses light rather than reflect it. Sounds like there is so much light it washes the picture. I can watch with my curtains open in the middle of the day, and although the picture is less than awesome, it's still watchable.

That's what different modes are for. They help daytime viewing. I have Natural set for nighttime and light-controlled viewing, and Bright set for daytime viewing.

5 hours. That's not even enough time to get it out of the box and settings adjusted halfway decent. To each his own. I'm pleased so far.
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post #831 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 04:42 AM
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Amazon is showing the WD-82737 in stock! The 82837 can't be far behind!

http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-WD-.../dp/B001XUR5FY
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post #832 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 06:48 AM
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When viewing movies with the horizontal black bars, I notice what appears to be a hint of green between the edge of the top black bar and movie. It's not apparent with the bottom black bar. It almost looks like some sort of leakage. I'm trying to determine if this is normal for this TV or if there is an issue. I'm using a PS3 with Bluray movies with an HDMI 1.3 cable. The PS3 is hooked up to a Yamaha RX-V663 receiver. I don't know if this is the receiver causing this as I have not tried connecting the PS3 directly to the TV.

Also, this may be normal because I haven't noticed it on smaller TVs, but I notice the black bars seem to have "teeth" along the edges like this:

/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\

Again, it's only noticeable when you go up close to it. I'm wondering if this is just normal to see this on larger TVs.

Your help is much appreciated.
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post #833 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 08:18 AM
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In previous posts on this thread, some have speculated that the Mitsubishi 60/65/73/83737 have large amounts of overscan to hide geometry issues at the edges of the picture.

Seems that recent posts have revealed that the geometry issues are due to flexing of the screen surface within the frame.

If that's the case, shouldn't it be possible to adjust the screen in the frame to be as flat as possible, and then reduce the overscan so that the full 1920x1080 pattern is in the viewable area?

Is there an adjustment for overscan in the service or user menus on these RPTVs? If so, I would want to run with the absolute minimum amount of overscan needed.

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post #834 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the Son View Post

5 hours. That's not even enough time to get it out of the box and settings adjusted halfway decent.

I agree. No offense to you retrace144, and we're certainly not trying to be rude, but 5 hours is not much time to reach a decision. There are many different adjustments you can use to battle glare and sunlight coming from the window, and since you have the 837 you also have Day/Night settings available for calibration. Have you already returned the set?

Quote:
Originally Posted by avlogic View Post

When viewing movies with the horizontal black bars, I notice what appears to be a hint of green between the edge of the top black bar and movie. It's not apparent with the bottom black bar. It almost looks like some sort of leakage. I'm trying to determine if this is normal for this TV or if there is an issue. I'm using a PS3 with Bluray movies with an HDMI 1.3 cable. The PS3 is hooked up to a Yamaha RX-V663 receiver. I don't know if this is the receiver causing this as I have not tried connecting the PS3 directly to the TV.

Also, this may be normal because I haven't noticed it on smaller TVs, but I notice the black bars seem to have "teeth" along the edges like this:

/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\

Again, it's only noticeable when you go up close to it. I'm wondering if this is just normal to see this on larger TVs.

Your help is much appreciated.

When watching movies there is definitely some 'light', and faint images that ocassionaly get displayed in the upper letterbox bar. I previously described it as "leakage" too, but was informed it's actually just reflections from the mirror(s) inside the cabinet. It's not unique to these new models; it's been happening for years. Some folks have even opened their cabinets and lined them with material to block it from happening. But it doesn't happen all the time, and usually it's minor enough that it's not distracting (unless you're looking for it).

However, I'm not sure if this is what you're seeing. The things I'm talking about are not constant. They are not always there. They only happen on ocassion, usually scenes when a bright spot (sun, spotlight, etc.) is near the edge of the viewing area, and giving the impression of spilling-over into the black bar. Is your green thing always there?

About the teeth on the edge of the bars... I've never noticed it, but that doesn't mean it isn't there. With a screen this size, everything is more noticeable, good AND bad. I will check my bars for teeth when I get home tonight.

One day at a time...
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post #835 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin Dunn View Post

Is there an adjustment for overscan in the service or user menus on these RPTVs?

You have to think about how these sets work: There's a source of light aimed at a DLP chip, which is a grid of mirrors, and the reflection is focused through lenses and mirrors onto the screen. The only way to electronically make the image smaller would be to electronically downsize the image, effectively making those mirrors that are aimed outside of the screen area "unused". In other words, you'd have to scale the resolution down to something less than 1080x1920. That's not desirable, so I doubt there's an adjustment that would do it.

Ideally, the best way to adjust overscan would be physically, with some way to adjust the position of the light engine or "zoom" via lenses to make the projected image larger or smaller (like you would with a front projector). But I've been told no such adjustment exists in these sets.


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post #836 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin Dunn View Post

In previous posts on this thread, some have speculated that the Mitsubishi 60/65/73/83737 have large amounts of overscan to hide geometry issues at the edges of the picture.

Seems that recent posts have revealed that the geometry issues are due to flexing of the screen surface within the frame.

If that's the case, shouldn't it be possible to adjust the screen in the frame to be as flat as possible...

Colin, that's the million dollar question, but nobody has the answer yet. I've been too scared to mess with any screws myself, in fear of making a small problem into a bigger one. The geometry/bowing/slant issues are minor, and only barely noticeable on large menus with long boxes or grids. They are not noticeale when viewing normal content (unless you get a particlarly bad set). It's not really a big deal. The amount of talking we've done on the subject probably makes it sound worse than it really is. Also, just to clarify, these small geo issues are not exclusive to the 737. The 837 series also has them.

One day at a time...
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post #837 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 09:25 AM
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No offense taken from any of your remarks. I assure you all that I understand day/night settings and how to calibrate them quickly. This is my tenth Mitsubishi and no, it has not been returned yet.

There is no way I was going to return this set if the glare wasn't completely unmanageable. We tried every can setting; Bright, Brilliant and Natural and modified from there. Adv1 and Adv2 were even tested at some unusual extremes. Our glare basically blanks out the screen. The glare / reflection makes it hard to look at the TV without squinting.

The set was even physically moved with only small improvements.

Additionally, this was not my decision alone. Four other family members agreed with tears swelling up in their eyes, for with the curtains closed, no one wanted to leave to room with Dark Knight mystifying our senses.

My next hope is the second generation LaserVue :-] Not going to touch the first generation with it's 'darkfield hotspot'.

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post #838 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 10:00 AM
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Was your old 65413 that much better? That's a CRT model, correct? That's somewhat surprising; my 73736 replaced a (much smaller) Sony CRT RPTV, and I consider the 73736 to be brighter and more usable during the day with the curtains open than it was.


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post #839 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Darin View Post

You have to think about how these sets work: There's a source of light aimed at a DLP chip, which is a grid of mirrors, and the reflection is focused through lenses and mirrors onto the screen. The only way to electronically make the image smaller would be to electronically downsize the image, effectively making those mirrors that are aimed outside of the screen area "unused". In other words, you'd have to scale the resolution down to something less than 1080x1920. That's not desirable, so I doubt there's an adjustment that would do it.

Ideally, the best way to adjust overscan would be physically, with some way to adjust the position of the light engine or "zoom" via lenses to make the projected image larger or smaller (like you would with a front projector). But I've been told no such adjustment exists in these sets.

I shimmed my CRT RPTV (Mits. 65813), which reduced overscan. Would this be possible with a DLP? Does a DLP project only on the screen, or is there some overlap on the inside past the edges of the screen?
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post #840 of 11280 Old 07-01-2009, 11:42 AM
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I got my 73737 today. Only had a few minutes on my lunch hour to scan for HDTV channels and verify the TV was undamaged / in working order. When pulling up the menus, I did not notice any significant geometry issues right off the bat. I'll do more testing later with patterns to see if there are problems.

No time yet to tweak / calibrate. It's still at factory default "torch mode" settings.

My concern with overscan is that I want to use the 73737 for computer display (games / Internet) as well as for movies. A computer expects to display all the way out to the edges of a 1920x1080 raster.

I thought maybe the built-in projector in an RPTV has zoom / focus adjustments, as an FPTV would. If those adjustments exist, they could either be manual controls (requires opening the TV) or power-assisted (adjustable in user or service menus).

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