2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 345 - AVS Forum
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post #10321 of 11274 Old 07-03-2011, 05:54 AM
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If it's not locked on the blue screen perhaps the set is going into safe mode when shutting down maybe the bulbs on its last legs, who knows. For fifty bucks I'd roll the dice and try a new bulb also I'd take the back off and dust everything put it back together and go from there. If it works do a firmware update and you got a hell of a deal if it doesn't work and you don't want to go any further than sell the bulb or sell the lot to someone else. I just passed my second year with my 60737 with no problems after firmware updates and I still enjoy the set a lot.
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post #10322 of 11274 Old 07-03-2011, 08:46 AM
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If it's not locked on the blue screen perhaps the set is going into safe mode when shutting down maybe the bulbs on its last legs

It will throw an error code if it shuts down from the lamp.
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post #10323 of 11274 Old 07-03-2011, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave84 View Post

If it's not locked on the blue screen perhaps the set is going into safe mode when shutting down maybe the bulbs on its last legs, who knows. For fifty bucks I'd roll the dice and try a new bulb also I'd take the back off and dust everything put it back together and go from there. If it works do a firmware update and you got a hell of a deal if it doesn't work and you don't want to go any further than sell the bulb or sell the lot to someone else. I just passed my second year with my 60737 with no problems after firmware updates and I still enjoy the set a lot.

Update : So I talked the guy down to $30 for the TV. Then i had a repair guy come out, and he had a new main board from a 65 that some one put a Wii remote throw the screen. He put that in and it works great now. Wanted $150 for the repair but i talked him down to $120 so i scored a 60737 with a manufactured date of March 2010 for $150
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post #10324 of 11274 Old 07-03-2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Eequetsuorcha View Post

Update : So I talked the guy down to $30 for the TV. Then i had a repair guy come out, and he had a new main board from a 65 that some one put a Wii remote throw the screen. He put that in and it works great now. Wanted $150 for the repair but i talked him down to $120 so i scored a 60737 with a manufactured date of March 2010 for $150

You are my kind of guy. Bargaining is everything.
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post #10325 of 11274 Old 07-03-2011, 10:28 PM
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What's the catch?

Mitsubishi sells the 73" LED - DLP for $1,350. A similar version LCD sells for $3,000. How much of a difference can there be between the two technologies?
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post #10326 of 11274 Old 07-04-2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Eequetsuorcha View Post

Update : So I talked the guy down to $30 for the TV. Then i had a repair guy come out, and he had a new main board from a 65 that some one put a Wii remote throw the screen. He put that in and it works great now. Wanted $150 for the repair but i talked him down to $120 so i scored a 60737 with a manufactured date of March 2010 for $150

You got a hell of a deal enjoy.
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post #10327 of 11274 Old 07-04-2011, 01:52 PM
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So I recently got a 2009 60" C9 model and have been reading through this thread. The 3D setup seems pretty complicated, so I just wanted to make sure i have this right. I plan on running all my devices (xbox, blu-ray) through a 3d ready HDMI 1.4 AVR. Then from the receiver to the mits 3d adapter, and from the adapter to the TV. Other than the adapter, all I need is a couple of DLP link glasses and I'm good to go for 3d content, correct? Is there anything wrong with this setup? Thanks for your reply.
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post #10328 of 11274 Old 07-04-2011, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chris1411 View Post

So I recently got a 2009 60" C9 model and have been reading through this thread. The 3D setup seems pretty complicated, so I just wanted to make sure i have this right. I plan on running all my devices (xbox, blu-ray) through a 3d ready HDMI 1.4 AVR. Then from the receiver to the mits 3d adapter, and from the adapter to the TV. Other than the adapter, all I need is a couple of DLP link glasses and I'm good to go for 3d content, correct? Is there anything wrong with this setup? Thanks for your reply.

Sounds like you got it to me. That's how I had mine set up as well.

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post #10329 of 11274 Old 07-05-2011, 09:35 AM
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I am having trouble updating the firmware on my 82837 from 11.01 to 11.03.

I get through the process until I am supposed to get the "update has been completed" pop up, it never shows up, and the up date never takes.

Formated flash drive
extracted files to drive
unplugged TV
inserted drive
pluged in power
"status" drive flashes green, then solid green
...never get "update complete" pop up
power on
In menu, still at 11.01

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks,
sfin54
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post #10330 of 11274 Old 07-05-2011, 01:29 PM
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Hello all-

Local best buy has an 82" Mitsubishi DLP for $1600. Looks great, but am worried about problems with Mitsubishi DLPs. Are the newer sets more reliable than the ones that got all the bad press a few years back?

Is this a price that is too good to pass up or is that price range fairly common?

Thanks
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post #10331 of 11274 Old 07-05-2011, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfin54 View Post

I am having trouble updating the firmware on my 82837 from 11.01 to 11.03.

I get through the process until I am supposed to get the "update has been completed" pop up, it never shows up, and the up date never takes.

Formated flash drive
extracted files to drive
unplugged TV
inserted drive
pluged in power
"status" drive flashes green, then solid green
...never get "update complete" pop up
power on
In menu, still at 11.01

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks,
sfin54

I don't recall which file but I had a file that wasn't opened, once that file was opened and put on the drive it updated.
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post #10332 of 11274 Old 07-06-2011, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e63p View Post
Hello all-

Local best buy has an 82" Mitsubishi DLP for $1600. Looks great, but am worried about problems with Mitsubishi DLPs. Are the newer sets more reliable than the ones that got all the bad press a few years back?

Is this a price that is too good to pass up or is that price range fairly common?

Thanks
I would say they are more reliable. I have had DLP for 7+ years now. One thing to be careful about the 82". It uses the same as the 73" and some complain that it is kind of a dim picture. I have not witnessed this, only read about it.
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post #10333 of 11274 Old 07-06-2011, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by crawsfire View Post
.[snipped]..The C9 3D experience is kind of weak due to the ...crushed blacks. I'm hoping for a fix one day......
That day might be today. The black crush isn't caused by the adapter as much as it is caused by a mismatch of video formats between the source and the adapter. The adapter is looking for video level RGB signal and your source is sending it PC levels.

If you're using a PS3, use these settings:

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited


More about it here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20462332
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post #10334 of 11274 Old 07-06-2011, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DenisG View Post

and you will be waiting the rest of your life for that to happen.

I surely hope not!

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post #10335 of 11274 Old 07-06-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by georule View Post

[snip]...The xpand x102 battery situation is a hassle tho. Not only is it proprietary batteries,...[]snip

Easy modification here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20085346 to use standard CR2032 batteries in the X102s.

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post #10336 of 11274 Old 07-06-2011, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by georule View Post

If it is a week old, then it is still under Mitsu warranty and that's really your only hope, 52 miles or not (besides, he'll be coming to you). You couldn't get the inner white bars on the 4:3 lines bottom third to straighten out at all with the manual correction? I *think* those lines should only effect you on a 4:3 SD content. Btw, is that pic "default" or after you messed with the manual geometry?

Maybe others would disagree, but I wouldn't worry too much about the outer white lines. Maybe gamers would. . . do you game with it a lot?

Do you actually notice a problem when watching TV rather than just staring at that menu?

Mitsu has been known to argue about replacing a light engine over geometry unless it is particularly bad. . .I have a feeling they'd argue over that one. But you can always try.


The pictures were taken with geometry correction disabled. If I manually correct I can "improve" things, but the lines look wavy and the picture quality from my HTPC noticeably degrades. After a little while of getting used to the TV I think I'm happy to accept the geometry issues in order to retain 1:1 pixel matching and great visual quality. In typical 16:9 content I rarely notice the geometry distortion, although as you said it becomes obvious watching 4:3.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

That day might be today. The black crush isn't caused by the adapter as much as it is caused by a mismatch of video formats between the source and the adapter. The adapter is looking for video level RGB signal and your source is sending it PC levels.

If you're using a PS3, use these settings:

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited


More about it here URL REMOVED DUE TO ANTISPAM STUFF
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I'm a little confused about this, perhaps you can help. I connect to my 60C9 via an HDMI cable from my HTPC. I played around with Full/Extended levels versus Standard and by looking at some reference videos it seems that the TV only supports Standard levels, which is just fine.

What I don't understand is why the 3D adapter would introduce crushing. If you are providing extended levels direct to the TV, won't the TV be crushing blacks anyway? And if you are providing standard levels, then the 3D adapter won't change anything?
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post #10337 of 11274 Old 07-06-2011, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxsfan View Post

The pictures were taken with geometry correction disabled. If I manually correct I can "improve" things, but the lines look wavy and the picture quality from my HTPC noticeably degrades. After a little while of getting used to the TV I think I'm happy to accept the geometry issues in order to retain 1:1 pixel matching and great visual quality. In typical 16:9 content I rarely notice the geometry distortion, although as you said it becomes obvious watching 4:3.



I'm a little confused about this, perhaps you can help. I connect to my 60C9 via an HDMI cable from my HTPC. I played around with Full/Extended levels versus Standard and by looking at some reference videos it seems that the TV only supports Standard levels, which is just fine.

What I don't understand is why the 3D adapter would introduce crushing. If you are providing extended levels direct to the TV, won't the TV be crushing blacks anyway? And if you are providing standard levels, then the 3D adapter won't change anything?

Read the posts at the link I provided. Most TVs require video levels, as does the adapter. Some TVs, including Mitsubishi, are designed to also be used with a computer, and can detect both PC and video levels.

An easy check is any THX DVD, which has test patterns. Go to the screen that shows the black bars. I believe you will be able to discern 7 gray-black bars when the brightness control is adjusted properly. If you have black crush, the 3 darkest black bars will all be the same shade of black, and run together, with no adjustment possible. It's very obvious when it's there.

I had the black crush until I reset the PS3 as discussed.

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post #10338 of 11274 Old 07-08-2011, 07:18 PM
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Some TVs, including Mitsubishi, are designed to also be used with a computer, and can detect both PC and video levels

This isn't entirely accurate as these Mitsubishi sets don't resolve picture information all the way down to RGB black. They only display a little bit below video black so they are not really a very good solution as a PC monitor unless your PC can compress the RGB signal to match video standards.
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post #10339 of 11274 Old 07-08-2011, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

This isn't entirely accurate as these Mitsubishi sets don't resolve picture information all the way down to RGB black. They only display a little bit below video black so they are not really a very good solution as a PC monitor unless your PC can compress the RGB signal to match video standards.

I don't think you fully understand. This might help. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=967106

Nevertheless, the TV will accept either Y Pb/Cb PrCr or RGB from the PS3 without crushing blacks, but the adapter will not. You must set the PS3 correctly to not crush blacks with the adapter. Screen up any pluge pattern to test this in both modes.

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post #10340 of 11274 Old 07-10-2011, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfin54 View Post

I am having trouble updating the firmware on my 82837 from 11.01 to 11.03.

I get through the process until I am supposed to get the "update has been completed" pop up, it never shows up, and the up date never takes.

Formated flash drive
extracted files to drive
unplugged TV
inserted drive
pluged in power
"status" drive flashes green, then solid green
...never get "update complete" pop up
power on
In menu, still at 11.01

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks,
sfin54

You're sure you formatted it as FAT32 and not NTFS, right?
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post #10341 of 11274 Old 07-14-2011, 09:49 AM
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This morning my son sprayed pet stain cleaning solution all over the front of my WD-73C9. I was not aware of this for about 15 minutes. In that time the solution pooled at the bottom of the cabinet and has now started moving up the inside of the screen. This is causing large dark/black areas of the screen.
I called Mits support and they were of no help at all. I called my local repair that had done some warranty work for me previously. He said to remove the screen from the unit and wipe it down with a lint free rag.

Does this sound correct? Is there a coating on the inside of the screen that I need to be worried about? If there isn't a coating why would the solution be climbing up the screen?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Bruce



UPDATE:

I pulled off the screen and found that the fluid had wicked up in between the 2 sheets of plastic. I have attempted to dry in between the screens using a lint free cloth but I am not optimistic as there is a significant color discrepancy between where I have wiped and where I did not. Hopefully this is residual moisture that will dry.
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post #10342 of 11274 Old 07-14-2011, 11:25 AM
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I just had to replace the lamp in my 18 month old 73837, and all I can say is Wow!

I'd been very pleased with the picture, and had dialed it in pretty well, I thought, over a year ago using an X-Rite meter and CalMAN. The one thing that nagged at me was that I thought the picture could be a bit brighter. The best readings I could get for overall luminance were ~22 to 24 fL. But, the grey scale measured very well, the colors were good looking, and the set was very nice to watch. When people would come over, they'd invariably remark on what a great picture the set had.

Then I recently got a new smaller screen for the bedroom, and it's a backlit LCD. It seemed very bright, and I wanted to see how I could dial it in, so I hooked up the meter to my laptop. The luminance out of the box was reading 75 fL.

It had seemed to me that the 73837 had been gradually getting less bright, but gradual changes aren't quite so noticeable. But when I now measured the luminance again to check, it was only measuring around 6 fL. I immediately ordered a new lamp, hoping that would restore what I knew to be a very good picture.

A week later the lamp arrived, and after turning off the TV and waiting an hour for it to cool, as per the instructions, I popped it open and removed the old lamp.

I was shocked to discover that the glass stem inside the bulb, holding the filament, was actually pointed downward at about a 45 degree angle. It looks like it had partially melted near its base, and gravity took over. I can't believe it was still pumping out any light at all.

So I installed the new lamp, turned on the TV, and was amazed at how much brighter the picture was. Without changing any settings, I measured the luminance at 46 fL. I'll let the lamp settle in a bit before I really try to tweak it, but the picture is better than it ever was before.

So now I can't help but think that the original lamp was defective from the beginning, and just got worse over time. When the set was brand new, it never had such a bright display. I had been happy with it, because the colors were very good. But this is just a revelation.

I guess maybe I should have sprung for a pro calibration back when it was new. The calibrator probably could have told me right off the bat that something wasn't quite right. Oh well....

Anyway, a very simple lamp replacement procedure has now gotten me an essentially brand new 73" display with an amazing picture.
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post #10343 of 11274 Old 07-14-2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewski3 View Post

This morning my son sprayed pet stain cleaning solution all over the front of my WD-73C9. I was not aware of this for about 15 minutes. In that time the solution pooled at the bottom of the cabinet and has now started moving up the inside of the screen. This is causing large dark/black areas of the screen.
I called Mits support and they were of no help at all. I called my local repair that had done some warranty work for me previously. He said to remove the screen from the unit and wipe it down with a lint free rag.

Does this sound correct? Is there a coating on the inside of the screen that I need to be worried about? If there isn't a coating why would the solution be climbing up the screen?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Bruce



UPDATE:

I pulled off the screen and found that the fluid had wicked up in between the 2 sheets of plastic. I have attempted to dry in between the screens using a lint free cloth but I am not optimistic as there is a significant color discrepancy between where I have wiped and where I did not. Hopefully this is residual moisture that will dry.

Just be very careful when putting the screens back on. The static electricity will attract any particles flying in the air, or carpet fibers, hair etc. and, you won't notice until you have it back on, turn it on and see a big black spot where the dust/fibers are.
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post #10344 of 11274 Old 07-14-2011, 12:48 PM
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Just be very careful when putting the screens back on. The static electricity will attract any particles flying in the air, or carpet fibers, hair etc. and, you won't notice until you have it back on, turn it on and see a big black spot where the dust/fibers are.

Thanks for the tip. I laid the frame flat without removing the actual plastic from the frame. I was able to remove the parts that hold the screen in the frame and then separated the sheets of plastic only in the corner that had the problem.

I then kept the screens separated and let them thoroughly dry. I reassembled and installed back on the unit. I turned it on, and it looks to be good. I don't see any debris or spots on the screen.

Looks to be mission successful for me.
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post #10345 of 11274 Old 07-14-2011, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ad301 View Post

[snip]...Then I recently got a new smaller screen for the bedroom, and it's a backlit LCD. It seemed very bright, and I wanted to see how I could dial it in, so I hooked up the meter to my laptop. The luminance out of the box was reading 75 fL...

75fL

Normally, recommended output for a direct view TV is 30-40 fL.

I guess that is what sells so many LCDs, as Joe Sixpack thinks it has "pop" in the store, because it's cranked so high.

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post #10346 of 11274 Old 07-14-2011, 07:33 PM
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What's new in mitsubishi?
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post #10347 of 11274 Old 07-15-2011, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

75fL

Normally, recommended output for a direct view TV is 30-40 fL.

I guess that is what sells so many LCDs, as Joe Sixpack thinks it has "pop" in the store, because it's cranked so high.

Yeah, the first thing I did with that TV was turn the backlight WAY down.
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post #10348 of 11274 Old 07-17-2011, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ad301 View Post

I just had to replace the lamp in my 18 month old 73837, and all I can say is Wow!

Any idea how many hours were on your lamp? I'm on 6,035 now and I'm wondering how much more it can go.
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post #10349 of 11274 Old 07-17-2011, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ad301 View Post

Anyway, a very simple lamp replacement procedure has now gotten me an essentially brand new 73" display with an amazing picture.

Ah, both the beauty and the curse of DLP. For around $100, you get a new-looking set.

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post #10350 of 11274 Old 07-18-2011, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bkwells View Post

Any idea how many hours were on your lamp? I'm on 6,035 now and I'm wondering how much more it can go.


7745.

However, I'm not sure that means anything, since I'm convinced that my original lamp was defective in some way right from the beginning. I never saw a picture like I'm seeing now with the replacement. It just wasn't capable of pumping out enough light.
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