2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 376 - AVS Forum
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post #11251 of 11280 Old 06-05-2014, 01:44 PM
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Follow up to my WD-73837 issue (a few posts up) -

My AVR is a Denon AVR-2312CI. I use HDMI connections only. I swapped out the WD-73738 with another TV, and the other TV worked fine. I also tried switching the cables (from all sources - BluRay, Sat box, etc) - all produced the same results as in the linked picture.

Any help would be appreciated
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post #11252 of 11280 Old 06-05-2014, 02:27 PM
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Have you tried bypassing the AVR? Have you tried component if available? Only thing I can assume is you need a new main board.
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post #11253 of 11280 Old 06-13-2014, 05:12 PM
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Hi Folks, I finally joined your ranks, a full five years after these TVs hit the market.

I saw a post on our local community swap facebook group selling a WD-65737. It was "stuck on the welcome screen" and they wanted a "reasonable offer". I haggled them down to $100 and then promptly fixed the TV by simply re-flashing the firmware via the USB port. Yay!

I did notice that the picture was subpar when I got it going, so I ripped the optical engine out and did a good cleaning on the color wheel, mirrors, and lenses. Oh and the fans. Oh, those fans were nasty! I found a toothbrush did a great job cleaning the gunked up crap on the fan blades and housings.

Upon turning the TV back on, I find that the picture is much sharper, more contrasty, less haze, but the overall color isn't that great and the color temperature seems to be very warm, with colors tending towards browns, even when the color temp is set to "high". Watchable, just not great.

I remembered that the lady said to me when helping load it into my apartment (yes, they even delivered it!), "It was always a great TV, in the five years we owned it, we never even had to change the bulb!" so I checked the TV hours (thankfully it doesn't seem to have the counter bug) and it shows a little over 8,000.

I have a new lamp on the way with prime saturday delivery, so I'm hoping that the symptoms I'm seeing are just the result of a lamp with 8,000 hours--does that seem reasonable?

Also- I bought the generic on amazon which came to about $26 (before my $8.99 saturday delivery...patience is not my strong suit, I couldn't bear the idea of missing a whole weekend of playing with my new TV). Do you guys think it's okay to test the TV with that for a few months before spending the $85 on an Osram lamp, or would you recommend I get on the OEM lamp right away for any particular reason? Comparing a new generic to a new Osram, is there a huge, noticeable difference? I do understand that a generic will probably die sooner, but is that the main difference?

Thanks folks! This TV promises to be a big upgrade from my 50" sony 720p 2006 model RP LCD unit! I just hope the lamp gets the picture back shipshape! I'm guessing 8,000 is a long time for a lamp, even OEM one.

Last edited by matt314159; 06-13-2014 at 05:16 PM.
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post #11254 of 11280 Old 06-14-2014, 10:33 AM
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I have read in these forums where the generic actually damaged something in the TV, and then people were replacing ballasts and main boards etc
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post #11255 of 11280 Old 06-14-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
I have read in these forums where the generic actually damaged something in the TV, and then people were replacing ballasts and main boards etc
I've seen a tale or two, but never really had a problem with them in my 2006 sony. The lamp got here today and I popped it in, and the screen really pops now! Seems to have fixed the colors tending toward brown. I think my plan is going to be to buy either the philips or original Osram lamp and put it in my OEM housing next month, and run my TV with that, setting my generic aside as a spare. I'm curious to see if I'll be able to visually tell a difference between a new generic and new OEM.

I don't think I could be much happier with this TV right now, especially for the price I paid.

RE: Stuck Pixels--I threw all-white and all-black images on the screen to look for stuck mirrors, and I have one stuck in the on position, one stuck in the off position. Is the DMD failure universal? My TV has 8200 hours on it according to its timer. Are my pixels going to immediately start multiplying like rabbits, or is there a chance that these aren't *necessarily* indicative of a pending DMD failure?

Two dead pixels doesn't worry me much right now, but I've heard people say that once they noticed it on their set, it would be a matter of weeks or months until the picture was unwatchable, so that worries me. I'll be keeping an eye on it.

However, after taking out the optical engine and ripping it apart, I feel confident that if I had to replace the DMD I could do it fairly easily. Watching the videos it seems like it's just like changing a laptop CPU (I'm PC technician by trade). So if it came to that, I probably would still keep this set.

Last edited by matt314159; 06-14-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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post #11256 of 11280 Old 06-14-2014, 04:30 PM
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I had two or three pixels stuck in each position and after reading up on it thought I should do something before it got worse. It took about a month to get a new DMD chip installed and by that time I thought I would see a major increase in stuck pixels but there didn't seem to be anymore than when I first noticed them.

Don't forget, if you call Mitsubishi and tell them you have stuck pixels they will have someone change out the DMD chip for $200. Or, if you want to be insistent that you can do it yourself they will first offer a free bulb and DMD replacement for the $200. If you still refuse they will waive the $200 and swap the DMD chip for free.
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post #11257 of 11280 Old 06-14-2014, 04:42 PM
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I had two or three pixels stuck in each position and after reading up on it thought I should do something before it got worse. It took about a month to get a new DMD chip installed and by that time I thought I would see a major increase in stuck pixels but there didn't seem to be anymore than when I first noticed them.

Don't forget, if you call Mitsubishi and tell them you have stuck pixels they will have someone change out the DMD chip for $200. Or, if you want to be insistent that you can do it yourself they will first offer a free bulb and DMD replacement for the $200. If you still refuse they will waive the $200 and swap the DMD chip for free.
Do you know what the threshold is before Mits will determine a failure and offer the replacement? i.e. they wouldn't give me a new one with just two, would they? They don't bother me. If i had any confidence that the problem wouldn't snowball, I'd be totally fine with it as-is.
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post #11258 of 11280 Old 06-14-2014, 06:47 PM
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I don't know and I'm not sure if there is a threshold. When you call they just ask a few questions to make sure it's stuck pixels. They didn't ask me how many.
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post #11259 of 11280 Old 06-16-2014, 07:06 AM
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I don't know and I'm not sure if there is a threshold. When you call they just ask a few questions to make sure it's stuck pixels. They didn't ask me how many.
Thanks. I think I'm going to wait to see if the problem gets worse over the next few months before I do anything. If I had them replace it, I think I'd try to push for them just sending me the DMD for free, to install myself, without paying anybody $200. That said, $200 for DMD and Lamp isn't terrible, I guess, if I had to.
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post #11260 of 11280 Old 06-22-2014, 10:01 AM
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I bought my set 11/19/09 with delivery several days after that. Currently have a little over 14500 hours on it. I'm on my third bulb (original OEM still my spare). About 1 1/2 weeks ago, my first white dot appeared. I'm now up to 10 with 2 flickering intermittently. Called up Mitsubishi on Friday afternoon. Lady took name, address, model number, serial number and asked questions about if they were still there on different sources. Did not ask how many. Came up with free chip and $200 labor charge. I pointed out that this was a known problem, and that TI was covering the chips. She continued with chip and $200. I asked if there was a supervisor I could talk to. She went on hold for a while, came back with there wasn't a supervisor available, but she could do the chip, a free bulb, with still $200 charge. I explained that I already had a spare bulb and that this was a warranty issue with TI and I didn't see why I was getting charged anything. She went on hold to talk to a more senior person. I expected her to come back and drop the charge to $100, but she came back with free chip and no charge. She did retract the bulb offer. They emailed me a release form (basically saying I wasn't going to sue them). I scanned it and emailed back. Sending chip to local (50 mi) authorized repair shop. Will call for appointment when it arrives. Pretty painless.

Meanwhile, I had been watching the set for about 45 minutes this morning when suddenly the sound disappeared replaced by loud static. Turning down the volume (to 0) only lowered the static. Goes away on Mute, independent of source. Thoughts? Quick fixes? Cheap fixes?
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post #11261 of 11280 Old 06-22-2014, 10:52 AM
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Well done on getting the DMD replaced for free. I still have one pixel stuck on, one stuck off. I keep expecting them to breed, but so far nothing has changed. Did they ask how many pixels you had stuck? Did they ask for proof of purchase or anything like that (I bought mine for $100 secondhand, so that might get me in trouble if they do). I'd sort of like to do this as a preventative measure, if I could get them to do it for free, on a DMD with only two stuck pixels. I'm around 8900 hrs right now.

RE: your static issue, the only wild suggestion I might try comes from my experience as a PC technician. Sometimes when a laptop gets stuck on stupid I'll yank the battery out, remove external power and hold the power button for around 30 seconds. In computers, anyway, I understand this drains residual power from the capacitors and sort of lets the electronics reset a little. It might be worth a shot to try the same thing on the TV. I doubt it would hurt anything to try (though I doubt it will fix it either).
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post #11262 of 11280 Old 06-22-2014, 11:21 AM
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matt314159 - They did not ask anything about how many were stuck. They did ask where I bought my set. If you can still contact the original owner, maybe he can fill you in on where he bought it. Good luck.
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post #11263 of 11280 Old 06-23-2014, 03:45 PM
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Just got off the phone with Mitsu...some of you have way better negotiating skills than I do. I tried and tried but they wouldn't budge from the $200. I just gave in eventually.
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post #11264 of 11280 Old 06-23-2014, 04:22 PM
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I wouldn't be surprised if someone from the Mitsubishi support team monitors this thread.
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post #11265 of 11280 Old 06-23-2014, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dublus View Post
I wouldn't be surprised if someone from the Mitsubishi support team monitors this thread.
Wouldn't surprise me either...the lady I spoke to was adamant that they were doing me a favor. No matter what I said. I did forget to ask to speak to a supervisor and try to escalate it though.
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post #11266 of 11280 Old 07-15-2014, 10:43 AM
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Turned on my 60737 with less than six thousand hrs on it last Monday and had one very bright spot later it was joined by lot's of dark spots. I talked with Mits on Tuesday morning and got no where as far as getting a replacement DMD shipped to me direct. Ordered it late Tuesday afternoon from ShopJimmy and had in hand and installed it on Friday. Took the in between time for a cleaning of the interior of the set. After the install the spots are gone and the PQ is crisp and bright. Replacement is straight plug and play even though the DMD looked clean coming out of the static bag I gave it a cleaning with a soft cloth there was some residue that came off. I used a very small amount of thermal paste and made sure not to over tighten the heat sink. Oh yeah it's not a bad idea to wear some thin latex or vinyl gloves when handling the board ect. I'd say total time invested was less than an hour and even though I didn't save but a couple of bucks doing it myself I know it was done right and I took my time for inspecting and cleaning. PS I did a good cleaning of the lens even though it only looked a bit dusty there was grim on it that would only come off with some alcohol and a clean cloth.
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post #11267 of 11280 Old 07-18-2014, 06:01 PM
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Hey folks!


Haven't been here in years. As usual, great help. I have a Mitsubishi WD-65837 model DLP. Purchased new in 2009 from Modia (The Home Theater Store/Houston)Went on vacation and when I returned one white dead pixel. Kind of laughed since I knew it would happen eventually. Then they multiplied. Now 11 white pixels. Can't see any black one's.


No problem. I had purchased a 5 year warranty. They said part and labor covered. Spoke to the Tech and he ordered part and will be here next week. Great.


My questions are:


1. What part are they replacing? DMD chip?
2. While I have the tech here, any advice of what I should do for maintenance while the back cover is off?
3. I do not have an extra bulb. I have 7500 hundred hours used on TV. Seems average?
4. I've never updated my TV's software. Recommended?


TV has been great over the last 4.5 years. No need to replace yet.


Thanks!


JBH
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post #11268 of 11280 Old 07-19-2014, 06:35 AM
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Based on other posts here, I believe it is just the DMD chip.

A good cleaning wouldn't hurt - dust/dirt around the fan, etc. - just as you would inside any computer.

My original lamp had 7200+ hours on it when I replaced it. It was still working, but after installing the new lamp, I realized just how dim the original lamp was at that point! Replace the lamp - you won't be sorry.

As for the firmware, I would update it only if you need to.
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post #11269 of 11280 Old 07-19-2014, 07:29 AM
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Based on other posts here, I believe it is just the DMD chip.

A good cleaning wouldn't hurt - dust/dirt around the fan, etc. - just as you would inside any computer.

My original lamp had 7200+ hours on it when I replaced it. It was still working, but after installing the new lamp, I realized just how dim the original lamp was at that point! Replace the lamp - you won't be sorry.

As for the firmware, I would update it only if you need to.
Thanks so much. As far as a new lamp, would you recommend an off brand or Mitsubishi bulb? Where would I purchase?

Thanks.

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post #11270 of 11280 Old 07-19-2014, 08:09 AM
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The consensus here is to get an original Mitsubishi lamp. You can get them from Mitsubishi, but when I ordered mine, I found that Mitsubishi added a bunch of extra fees, etc. which really pushed up the price. I don't know if that is still true. I ended up purchasing mine from Discount Merchant. The price was good, the purchase was easy and the lamp is still running (2500 hours so far):

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Sea...13&Click=11342

Note: This is for the lamp on my tv, which is a 2009 WD-65737. I think it's the same lamp as your tv, but you should double-check.
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post #11271 of 11280 Old 07-19-2014, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
The consensus here is to get an original Mitsubishi lamp. You can get them from Mitsubishi, but when I ordered mine, I found that Mitsubishi added a bunch of extra fees, etc. which really pushed up the price. I don't know if that is still true. I ended up purchasing mine from Discount Merchant. The price was good, the purchase was easy and the lamp is still running (2500 hours so far):

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Sea...13&Click=11342

Note: This is for the lamp on my tv, which is a 2009 WD-65737. I think it's the same lamp as your tv, but you should double-check.
I found my notes on when I purchased my lamp. It was December of 2012. Mitsubishi wanted $99 for the lamp and then $10 shipping, $5 handling and $7.67 tax for a total of $121.67. On the other hand, Discount Merchant just wanted $94 and $7.36 tax. In looking at Discount Merchant today, they show the lamp for $76.
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post #11272 of 11280 Old 07-19-2014, 08:15 AM
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Thanks Mark. Very helpful.

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post #11273 of 11280 Old 07-20-2014, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jbh1970 View Post
1. What part are they replacing? DMD chip?
2. While I have the tech here, any advice of what I should do for maintenance while the back cover is off?
3. I do not have an extra bulb. I have 7500 hundred hours used on TV. Seems average?
4. I've never updated my TV's software. Recommended?
Hi JBH I think these guys have you covered pretty good, but thought I'd chime in as well. It will be the DMD chip they'll be replacing. It should be pretty quick and painless for the technician. If you're curious to see the procedures, this video has it covered pretty well:

When I got mine, I took out the optical engine and cleaned all the fans really well, they were disgusting. No amount of compressed air really helped, I had to clean each blade with a toothbrush. The rear fan was the worst, the one that's more of a squirrel-cage style. I also opened up the optical block and carefully cleaned the lenses, mirrors, and DLP Color Wheel with distilled water and a soft microfiber cloth. I've heard on some high-hours sets, the strong UV rays cause the inside of the black plastic housing to lose its sheen, and that actually ends up as a film on the optics. My set has about 8,000 hours on it and the inside was clean as a whistle, no film at all, so it ended up a waste of time, but you might crack it open and peek inside to see how they're looking.

I spent a couple of hours when I first got the TV and read quite a ways back in this thread, and it seems like its really best to stick with OEM for the lamp, or look a few pages back for that phillips one that people are liking as well. I put a generic lamp in mine, but I'm planning to get a new OEM one on payday and keep the generic in the closet as a spare. The difference between the old lamp and the new generic one was night and day, I think you should definitely do a new lamp when you replace the DMD chip, it will be a huge improvement. Mine was much brighter and what's more, the colors and contrast seemed much improved as well. I think over the years, the set slowly dims down without you really noticing until you finally replace the lamp and then there's a huge WOW factor there.

Good luck!
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post #11274 of 11280 Old 07-20-2014, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
I found my notes on when I purchased my lamp. It was December of 2012. Mitsubishi wanted $99 for the lamp and then $10 shipping, $5 handling and $7.67 tax for a total of $121.67. On the other hand, Discount Merchant just wanted $94 and $7.36 tax. In looking at Discount Merchant today, they show the lamp for $76.

The OEM lamp from Mits for mine (73736) now STARTS at $119 BEFORE all the added charges. Now the total would be $141.xx. When I get around to ordering one I'll probably get it from Discount Merchant or Shop Jimmy & it'll be the Philips one.


Ed
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post #11275 of 11280 Old 07-27-2014, 05:42 PM
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Finally getting around to 3D using this set. I know, about 3 years too late lol! Anyway, bought the 3ACTIVE IR emitter and 2 pairs of PlayStation 3D glasses. I'm using an older Panasonic BluRay player that supports the Checkerboard format. The 3D is phenomenal but I get a crazy amount of flickering in one eye, currently the right eye. It's only noticeable in dark scenes. If I hate the button on the back of the emitter the flicker will switch to the opposite eye. I've turned off all lights in the room to try and make sure it isn't due to CFL bulbs.

Are there any setting changes I can make to reduce or minimize this? It's almost like watching a movie through a ceiling fan on one eye. I can tolerate it to a certain extent. My wife not so much. Any advice would be great as absent the flickering the 3D is tremendously good.

TIA!
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post #11276 of 11280 Old 07-28-2014, 10:44 AM
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Finally getting around to 3D using this set. I know, about 3 years too late lol! Anyway, bought the 3ACTIVE IR emitter and 2 pairs of PlayStation 3D glasses. I'm using an older Panasonic BluRay player that supports the Checkerboard format. The 3D is phenomenal but I get a crazy amount of flickering in one eye, currently the right eye. It's only noticeable in dark scenes. If I hate the button on the back of the emitter the flicker will switch to the opposite eye. I've turned off all lights in the room to try and make sure it isn't due to CFL bulbs.

Are there any setting changes I can make to reduce or minimize this? It's almost like watching a movie through a ceiling fan on one eye. I can tolerate it to a certain extent. My wife not so much. Any advice would be great as absent the flickering the 3D is tremendously good.

TIA!

Return the glasses
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post #11277 of 11280 Old 07-28-2014, 06:07 PM
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Return the glasses
Just curious as to why you feel the glasses are the issue. Not doubting, but surprised that I would have received 2 bad pairs. The PS 3D glasses do seem to be highly rated. I did order an Xpand pair just to test. I do wonder if the IR emitter could be the culprit. If I get the flickering with the Xpand glasses I may just drop $25 and get a different emitter to test as well. In any case, thanks for the response.

Is there a particular brand of glasses that people found have worked well with these sets or is too dependent on each person's eyes?
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post #11278 of 11280 Old 07-30-2014, 02:01 AM
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It was correct to doubt, as I missed that you had two pair of glasses. It is more likely the emitter and you will be able to test when you get the Xpands.
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post #11279 of 11280 Old 07-30-2014, 03:00 AM
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It was correct to doubt, as I missed that you had two pair of glasses. It is more likely the emitter and you will be able to test when you get the Xpands.
Or not lol!

Got the Xpand pair in and they worked perfectly. Went ahead and ordered 3 more pair. For $18 each they're a bargain. Excited to finally be able to use the TV for 3D. It's been lonely and neglected in the basement.
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post #11280 of 11280 Old 08-01-2014, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jsrdlr View Post
Or not lol!

Got the Xpand pair in and they worked perfectly. Went ahead and ordered 3 more pair. For $18 each they're a bargain. Excited to finally be able to use the TV for 3D. It's been lonely and neglected in the basement.
LOL
I'm glad you've got it working!
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