2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 383 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11461 of 11486 Old 07-26-2016, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Gruber View Post
It took me two minutes from start to finish to replace my lamp with no instruction and only a power drill with a light on it. With that said I ordered a backup lamp for my $17.51 lamp. It cost cost me nearly $19.00. I will keep this thread updated on the lifespan of my generic lamp. I use this forum to calculate the hours of the new lamp. (14833) hours for the original lamp.
where do you order your lamps from please?
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post #11462 of 11486 Old 07-27-2016, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by smokozuna View Post
where do you order your lamps from please?
I got two lamps from the same place. The second one was a backup in case a lamp failed. The first one went out right around 30 days. I think it was a fluke but under warranty. The customer service was very good. The lamp appeared not to have blown and showed no signs of damage. The Mitsubishi 73" said otherwise. I am a veteran of DLP TV's. I have seen lamps that you can see popped or burned out. In my case the lamp still looked brand new after it failed. I double checked by popping in the backup and did an A-B comparison back and forth twice and no dice on the first lamp.

I do not want to say where I got it from yet because their customer service has been good. My goal is to get a solid year out of each bulb. These are generics and not Phillips or Osram lamps with the plastic housing. The picture is equal to the name brand stuff including the original lamp which I think was Osram.

My philosophy on DLP lamps is very different from others. If you have the correct model lamp it can't hurt your TV other than needing to replace lamps quite often if they are unreliable.

I was thinking about the DLP lamps today and wondering if I would simply have 3 or 4 backup lamps and simply swap them out if one should fail.
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post #11463 of 11486 Old 07-27-2016, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Hans Gruber View Post
...The first one went out right around 30 days. ....

That says it all.
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post #11464 of 11486 Old 07-30-2016, 08:23 PM
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Philips PHI/915B403001 REAR PROJECTION LAMP FOR MITSUBISHI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045DF81O..._s1wNxb0YCQ7E0

I ordered this bulb. It came a few days ago, not much problems installing. I opted against blowing out the dust, because I didn't want have any land somewhere I didn't want.

The cartridge is a little lighter plastic. And I noticed it was missing the metal screen to the side of the bulb.

The connectors were a little loose on the tv, and were drooping down just a bit. I was extremely careful trying to get a good fit, but once the the connections were aligned it went in easily.

The bulb is genuine Phillips, and has insets showing how to identify the bulb. I kept the old one which dimmed in case this one breaks.

Once turned on, and I dropped brightness down and dropped the gamma from 1.8 back to 2.4 and I'm all good!

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post #11465 of 11486 Old 08-03-2016, 08:18 PM
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I am back to two lamps. My replacement lamp arrives tomorrow. I cracked open my original Mitsubishi lamp and it was an Osram. Made in China it said as well. It never died, the picture simply became very dim. When I say I cracked it open. Literally, a flathead screwdriver to pop it open cracked the plastic casing on both sides.
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post #11466 of 11486 Old 08-05-2016, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Gruber View Post
I am back to two lamps. My replacement lamp arrives tomorrow. I cracked open my original Mitsubishi lamp and it was an Osram. Made in China it said as well. It never died, the picture simply became very dim. When I say I cracked it open. Literally, a flathead screwdriver to pop it open cracked the plastic casing on both sides.
I was wondering if anyone else got long life out of the original bulb on a DLP. I went 19830 hours on my original. I was laid up for a year due to an accident, wife was living in the family room with the Mitsubishi 78737. I finally was able to come out to that room and wondered why she was watching such a dim picture (she doesn't care). I ordered a bulb, and had my brother come over to put it in, as I had no strength to pull the TV out to get to it. That all done, pushed back and all, bright picture, the TV started shutting off. Thanks to this website, I found they had pushed the TV too close to the wall for proper ventilation. I installed a laptop computer cooler on the back, plugged it into the USB port and haven't had a problem since, even though it runs 24/7 unless I turn it off (she won't). I guess I escaped the DLP chip problems others had, and I love this TV still after 5 1/2 years and I only paid $1700 for it. OTOH, I just ordered a 55"LG OLED today for our Master bedroom for $1741 delivered.
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post #11467 of 11486 Old 08-26-2016, 02:47 AM
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WD-65C9 that wont turn on

Hi I have a wd-65c9 that doesnt have any sign of life (no status lights, clicking or any sound) when plugged in and with any button pressed. BUT oddly it will blink yellow if the back panel is open. It happened right after a power outbreak happened and when the power came back. Main board toast??
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post #11468 of 11486 Old 09-04-2016, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by z3ds View Post
Hi I have a wd-65c9 that doesnt have any sign of life (no status lights, clicking or any sound) when plugged in and with any button pressed. BUT oddly it will blink yellow if the back panel is open. It happened right after a power outbreak happened and when the power came back. Main board toast??
You should always have a backup lamp that works to test your TV. Having an extra lamp removes much of the guessing game to diagnose the problem.
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post #11469 of 11486 Old 09-04-2016, 05:00 AM
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Thanks for the reply. It miraculously worked again after i disconnected each of the connection inside. I was so ready on buying a new tv. This thing just keeps on chugging, I love it!
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post #11470 of 11486 Old 11-23-2016, 05:13 AM
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I am ready to quit the generic lamp thing. Mine still works but one has been struggling and the other one may have blown. Total investment, $36-$42 if you count shipping for a defective lamp.

I want peace of mind with regards to not having to worry about the lamp going bad.

With that said Philips lamp or Osram? The least expensive Philips I found is $76 with shipping and a 6 month warranty.

I plan on upgrading to a Front Projector and screen and a 65'70" LED TV in the next year.

My Mitsubishi has been bullet proof and trouble free other than needing a new lamp after 6+ years. My original lamp never blew but puts out a dim image.

So I am still using the generic lamps but I have faith no more in their longevity.
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post #11471 of 11486 Old 11-23-2016, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Gruber View Post
I am ready to quit the generic lamp thing. Mine still works but one has been struggling and the other one may have blown. Total investment, $36-$42 if you count shipping for a defective lamp.

I want peace of mind with regards to not having to worry about the lamp going bad.

With that said Philips lamp or Osram? The least expensive Philips I found is $76 with shipping and a 6 month warranty.

I plan on upgrading to a Front Projector and screen and a 65'70" LED TV in the next year.

My Mitsubishi has been bullet proof and trouble free other than needing a new lamp after 6+ years. My original lamp never blew but puts out a dim image.

So I am still using the generic lamps but I have faith no more in their longevity.



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post #11472 of 11486 Old 11-23-2016, 01:11 PM
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My wife and I have used Phillips bulbs the entire time that we have had our Mitsubishi DLP. Quality of the light produced is great and they last a small eternity. I personally prefer using ShopJimmy.com, but you can find the proper bulb in a variety of places.
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post #11473 of 11486 Old 11-24-2016, 07:36 AM
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My WD-73C9 came with an Osram lamp that never died. The picture got quite dim but still watchable. Which is better, Philips or Osram with regards to lamp? My generic bulbs still work but they have been a bit sketchy. I don't want to waste my time any longer with these Chinese generic knockoffs because their life expectancy is short.

The Osram lamps are less expensive than Philips. I want a bulb that will last 3 or 4 years.
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post #11474 of 11486 Old 11-26-2016, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Gruber View Post
My WD-73C9 came with an Osram lamp that never died. The picture got quite dim but still watchable. Which is better, Philips or Osram with regards to lamp? My generic bulbs still work but they have been a bit sketchy. I don't want to waste my time any longer with these Chinese generic knockoffs because their life expectancy is short.

The Osram lamps are less expensive than Philips. I want a bulb that will last 3 or 4 years.
All my Mitsubishi sourced lamps were Osram
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post #11475 of 11486 Old 11-30-2016, 10:51 AM
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Hey all,

As noted above, my 65837 just "keeps chugging along". I've no complaints, as this is essentially a 2003 purchase. !!

All those years ago we bought an upper-midline 56" Mitsu DLP instead of a smaller Panny Plasma due to the amount of ambient light our viewing area would have. That generation of multi-thousand $ DLPs had a slew of bad components, which Mitsu did eventually honor with complete replacements. They did the right thing. In that model year (2008?) the appropriate upper mid-line was the 837 whose smallest screen was 65".

So for the cost of $250/year plus three bulbs (3rd is a spare) we have gotten to enjoy a very nice viewing experience for our living room theater.

Funny how things work out.

Cheers.

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post #11476 of 11486 Old 01-10-2017, 07:14 PM
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Question,
I have a small media PC hooked up to the TV. Initially the input(and label in activity) on the TV was set to just plain ol HDMI-3
I got to reading the owners manual and reading about all this 0-255 / 16-235 conversion ...
The owners manual indicated setting the activity label to "PC" to properly adjust for incoming signals.... does this mean the TV is expecting the PC to input 0-255? Whereas on plain ol HDMI-3 label it would be expecting 16-235?
I also noticed when the activity is set to label "PC" ... 2 activities are created w/ PC setting ... "WATCH TV" and "PLAY GAMES" ... Im wondering if both expect 0-255 or if the "Watch TV" expects 16-235 and "Play Games" expects 0-255?

Im just tryin to get the proper conversion chain going and would like to solve what the TV is actually processing incoming signal on "PC" activity labels.
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post #11477 of 11486 Old 02-28-2017, 04:47 PM
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I am back. My generic lamps died on me. I thought about getting an Osram lamp for $60 but I cannot justify the cost. I am back to my original lamp while I wait for my next lamp experiment to arrive. I actually paid sales tax on this one. The damage is a few bits north of $23. This one has a 150 day warranty which I will probably need.

I am planning on retiring my Mitsubishi for a projector and a 65" LED flat screen. It has served it's purpose well and I will probably drag it out for another year. So from my first post last year and it being 1 day shy of March 1st. I think that is pretty good. I think I am in for $40 so far on the last experiment. Add $23 more and I will update this thread when this lamp dies.

It's pretty sad that my original Osram bulb with more than 14,000 hours keeps chugging along as a backup.
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post #11478 of 11486 Old 03-02-2017, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Gruber View Post
I am back. My generic lamps died on me. I thought about getting an Osram lamp for $60 but I cannot justify the cost. I am back to my original lamp while I wait for my next lamp experiment to arrive. I actually paid sales tax on this one. The damage is a few bits north of $23. This one has a 150 day warranty which I will probably need.

I am planning on retiring my Mitsubishi for a projector and a 65" LED flat screen. It has served it's purpose well and I will probably drag it out for another year. So from my first post last year and it being 1 day shy of March 1st. I think that is pretty good. I think I am in for $40 so far on the last experiment. Add $23 more and I will update this thread when this lamp dies.

It's pretty sad that my original Osram bulb with more than 14,000 hours keeps chugging along as a backup.
It keeps chugging along because it's an actual OEM lamp. It's worth $130 for the proper lamp that performs as it should and lasts. I do appreciate your honesty re. the generic lamps you continue to fool around with. You're the best example of the reason to bite the bullet and buy the OEM Mits lamp that I've seen. To each his own. JMHO
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post #11479 of 11486 Old 03-03-2017, 06:49 AM
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i bought an osram lamp from shopjimmy on ebay, i had a bitch of a time getting it to fit my original housing and had to dremel the crap out of the housing to get the lamp to fit correctly. i would suggest buying a osram lamp with housing included from shopjimmy on ebay, probably run you around $60. on another note now that our tv's are old expect your chip to fail within 3 months of a lamp replacement. mine did so i had to replace the chip too which is another $200 repair. i am finally calling it quits on DLP so i purchased a 65" led tv to replace my 73" DLP.
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post #11480 of 11486 Old 03-03-2017, 07:14 AM
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I am $36 into 2 lamps plus $6 for a return of a defective lamp plus $23 for the current plus another $22 when I get a backup for the backup. Essentially all lamps lose brightness after a year or two. If I can get these generics to last 6 months each. I would feel pretty good about my investment. Once I am above $100 then I would start to consider other options. This new generic didn't come with screws and I had to manually fit it. I had to go McGuyver and substitute the screws from the failed lamp and manually guide in the lamp for a good fit. They don't teach this level of ingenuity at MENSA meetings. Once I order another generic lamp. I will be in for $85-$90 with two working lamps and the original Osram lamp as an emergency backup. I thought about buying an Osram lamp for $60 but feared counterfeits as well as throwing $60 down the hole should that lamp burn out on me in less than a year.

Ultimately I am going to get an 65-70" LED tv with a 120" screen and projection display. The Mitsubishi is still a very good TV.
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post #11481 of 11486 Old 03-03-2017, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Gruber View Post
I am $36 into 2 lamps plus $6 for a return of a defective lamp plus $23 for the current plus another $22 when I get a backup for the backup. Essentially all lamps lose brightness after a year or two. If I can get these generics to last 6 months each. I would feel pretty good about my investment. Once I am above $100 then I would start to consider other options. This new generic didn't come with screws and I had to manually fit it. I had to go McGuyver and substitute the screws from the failed lamp and manually guide in the lamp for a good fit. They don't teach this level of ingenuity at MENSA meetings. Once I order another generic lamp. I will be in for $85-$90 with two working lamps and the original Osram lamp as an emergency backup. I thought about buying an Osram lamp for $60 but feared counterfeits as well as throwing $60 down the hole should that lamp burn out on me in less than a year.

Ultimately I am going to get an 65-70" LED tv with a 120" screen and projection display. The Mitsubishi is still a very good TV.

No MENSA membership required, just basic math:


36 + 6 = 42 + 23 = $65
$65 / 3 = $21.66 per month (if you wish to stop here, see below in blue)
65 + 36 (unneeded backup, since you have the original working lamp) = $111
111 + 22 (another unneeded backup "for the backup") = $133 in what, three months?
$133 / 3 = $44.33/month ($65 / 3 = $21.66 per month)
Hours on original lamp = 14000
14000/8 hours use per day (high estimate) = 1750 days.
1759/365 = 4.75 years (though YOU have had it for about 7-8?)


4.75 x 12 = 57 months


New Mitsubishi Lamp is $138
$138 / 57 = $2.42 per month ($1.43/month if you had the TV 8 years)


1.43 per month versus 44.33 per month is a difference of $42.90 per month for 24 months (if you were to continue the path you are on for two years)


$42.90 x 24 = $1029.60 extra for two years of lamp usage! (even half that estimate is an outrageous $515, or over $250 per year!)


This clearly shows the economic value of the "more expensive" Mitsubishi lamp, not to mention lost time (time is money) troubleshooting, re-ordering, and returning the lamp(s). This isn't even factoring in the crapshoot of damaging your TVs circuitry with your knock-off lamps.


If you believe you're only out $65 in these past 3 months, then:
$65 / 3 = $21.66 per month
21.66 x 7 months = $151.62
So, at $138 vs. $152, the Mitsubishi lamp is still a "no-brainer" even if it only lasts 7 months.
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post #11482 of 11486 Old 03-03-2017, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
No MENSA membership required, just basic math:


36 + 6 = 42 + 23 = $65
$65 / 3 = $21.66 per month (if you wish to stop here, see below in blue)
65 + 36 (unneeded backup, since you have the original working lamp) = $111
111 + 22 (another unneeded backup "for the backup") = $133 in what, three months?
$133 / 3 = $44.33/month ($65 / 3 = $21.66 per month)
Hours on original lamp = 14000
14000/8 hours use per day (high estimate) = 1750 days.
1759/365 = 4.75 years (though YOU have had it for about 7-8?)


4.75 x 12 = 57 months


New Mitsubishi Lamp is $138
$138 / 57 = $2.42 per month ($1.43/month if you had the TV 8 years)


1.43 per month versus 44.33 per month is a difference of $42.90 per month for 24 months (if you were to continue the path you are on for two years)


$42.90 x 24 = $1029.60 extra for two years of lamp usage! (even half that estimate is an outrageous $515, or over $250 per year!)


This clearly shows the economic value of the "more expensive" Mitsubishi lamp, not to mention lost time (time is money) troubleshooting, re-ordering, and returning the lamp(s). This isn't even factoring in the crapshoot of damaging your TVs circuitry with your knock-off lamps.


If you believe you're only out $65 in these past 3 months, then:
$65 / 3 = $21.66 per month
21.66 x 7 months = $151.62
So, at $138 vs. $152, the Mitsubishi lamp is still a "no-brainer" even if it only lasts 7 months.
My first lamp cost me $17 and my second I think was almost $19. The warranty replacement USPS priority mail $6 and my last lamp burned out the day before March 1st. So 3 bulbs, two purchased with a grand total of $17+$19+$6= $42. I just purchased a generic lamp for $23 with tax and shipping so I am $42+23= $65 invested since May 2016. Technically I was only in for $42 from May 2016 to basically March 2017. So when I get up to $130 for a genuine replacement Mitsubishi lamp, i will let you know. Based on my math that will take at least 2 more years maybe 3 years.

Where you come up with me spending $1000+ on lamps, I have no clue.
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post #11483 of 11486 Old 03-03-2017, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
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My first lamp cost me $17 and my second I think was almost $19. The warranty replacement USPS priority mail $6 and my last lamp burned out the day before March 1st. So 3 bulbs, two purchased with a grand total of $17+$19+$6= $42. I just purchased a generic lamp for $23 with tax and shipping so I am $42+23= $65 invested since May 2016. Technically I was only in for $42 from May 2016 to basically March 2017. So when I get up to $130 for a genuine replacement Mitsubishi lamp, i will let you know. Based on my math that will take at least 2 more years maybe 3 years.

Where you come up with me spending $1000+ on lamps, I have no clue.

I was going off the numbers you quoted, but I must have misunderstood your post. Thanks for taking the time to clarify.


So, three lamps in nine months. At that rate, $42 / 9 months equals 4.66 per month. So yes, it will take you 2-1/2 years to spend the $138. How is that better than the 7-8 years you got out of the original $138 Mitsubishi lamp?

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post #11484 of 11486 Old 03-13-2017, 03:00 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by MagicPotatoes 
it should look like this: note the different terminals
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg
compared to osram:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg
I installed the Philips bare bulb into the Mitsu housing. It took a little extra time to get the bulb positioned correctly so the wiring harness could reach all the way out due to the positioning of the terminals that MagicPotatoes mentioned in the post quoted above.. The center post terminal on the Osram bulb is moved to the side of the Philips bulb.
But, It's plugged in & working.. Pretty darn bright..

I looked around the cabinet behind the bulb and the fan to the right is dusty. There's also a wheel looking device directly behind the lamp that spins.. It also needs cleaning.
Is it safe to blow some compressed air in there or will that do more harm than good?
TIA
The Philips bulb mentioned in the message above blew yesterday. Not quite 3yrs & 12,500 hrs of use.. Replaced it with an older spare.. Now off to but a new one..
What's the latest, greatest deal? WD-60C9

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I have mitsubishi WD-65837. TV is auto-sensing an input change from the Receiver and then changing the activity automatically on the TV. How do I remove the inputs/activities, and lock in 1 input? I have an HDMI plugged from the Sony receiver and into HMDI 1 input on the TV. When I change the receiver input, the TV will try to switch to an activity called "Other", but when I go to the menu there is no Activity called Other, and thus I can't remove it. Also, lately, I can see that the TV is trying to change the Activity constantly by itself... It was turn to this "Other" activity, then go blue, then back to Other, then blue, then other, and this doesn't end (about 3 second intervals). None of the inputs from the Receiver are changing, but for some reason the TV thinks they are and continuously tries to change. I have one HDMI from the receiver to the TV. I just want the TV to stop trying to "think" and just stay static on HDMI 1 input. Please help me get rid of this ghost activity, and help me set just one input for my receiver feed! Much appreciated!
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Originally Posted by iamMDub View Post
I have mitsubishi WD-65837. TV is auto-sensing an input change from the Receiver and then changing the activity automatically on the TV. How do I remove the inputs/activities, and lock in 1 input? I have an HDMI plugged from the Sony receiver and into HMDI 1 input on the TV. When I change the receiver input, the TV will try to switch to an activity called "Other", but when I go to the menu there is no Activity called Other, and thus I can't remove it. Also, lately, I can see that the TV is trying to change the Activity constantly by itself... It was turn to this "Other" activity, then go blue, then back to Other, then blue, then other, and this doesn't end (about 3 second intervals). None of the inputs from the Receiver are changing, but for some reason the TV thinks they are and continuously tries to change. I have one HDMI from the receiver to the TV. I just want the TV to stop trying to "think" and just stay static on HDMI 1 input. Please help me get rid of this ghost activity, and help me set just one input for my receiver feed! Much appreciated!

There's a software update here.


https://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/suppor...ments/WD-65837


Follow the instructions carefully.

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
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