Mitsubishi 2007 (and possibility '06 & '08) lens cleaning procedure. No more halo's. - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 388 Old 01-03-2012, 04:10 PM
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I just picked up a wd-73833 with a bad dlp chip. I have the chip ordered. I will be tackling the cleaning of this thing very soon when I get the chip replaced. So all I need is some long q-tips and some lens cleaning solution for the dlp lens? Can I use the same for the glass board on the back? or would just some regular glass cleaner work? lol. I looked over most of the pages without a definite answer. Seems like each their own.
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post #272 of 388 Old 01-04-2012, 04:47 AM
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Well to be honest, my only worry at the moment is that dang foam bag that surrounds the big eye lens! Just seems so snug, but it got in there somehow, right? Beyond that, my only other worry is having the image not have any inexplicable bars (as someone else here experienced).

I've got some ROR cleaning fluid (Residual Oil Remover) used for cleaning my telescope eyepieces, Q-tips and dust free Dupont Sontara wipes, so I just need to wait for kids to get back to school and I can give it a try!

Videobruce:
I may take some pics as I go; is there anything that you think would be of benefit to add at this point? I have the 65831 model.

regards,
B

Can you reach the lens in question with regular-length Q-tips???
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post #273 of 388 Old 01-04-2012, 05:03 AM
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Yes, you can reach the lens with regular length Q-Tips. I used the ones I pictured because they're labelled as "Pharmaceutical grade, bleached white cotton cleaning swabs." Plus, they're what was available at work.

And don't worry about the foam, it stays in place when you slide the Light Engine in and out.

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post #274 of 388 Old 01-04-2012, 06:17 AM
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Thanks much Rich
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post #275 of 388 Old 01-15-2012, 12:41 PM
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Well, seems nothing works right the first time for me. I tried the procedure and it was very well explained and not too tough. I disassembled exactly as directed and discovered no haze whatsoever on the lens. I had to refer back to the pics to confirm. This all started with a screen issue. We had some liquid damage to the screen, I took it apart to clean and scratched the inner fresnel lens. I got lucky and found a place that ordered a screen that arrived next day. I installed the fresnel and discovered that not only did I have the wrong lens, but shadows shaped like parenthesis ( ) showed up. In the shadow area was some of the halo effect that is described in this post. As stated I discovered no haze at all. I reassembled everything and reinstalled and now I have the halo effect on the entire screen along with the shadow ( ). Before I did anything I had a perfectly fine picture, just a scratch right in the center of the screen. NOW, another issue has begun. I have the blinking green light and the set won't turn on. First, does anyone know what may cause the shadows in a shape of a large donut or ( ) after a screen swap? Second, what did I do to create the halo I now have, and third, I'll need to read that blinking light post.
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post #276 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
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1. Do you have the Service Manual? if not, get it, see the sticky at the top of the sub-forum page.
2. What "liquid damage"? What happened, some threw a drink at the screen?
3. Sounds like this is definitely a screen issue from improper installation. I would of hesitated on dealing with the screens since there are two and the spacing between both is a issue/problem. I have read this many times.
4. Your "blinking green light" should have a sequence with a related . Again, look through the 'sticky' for the tread on "What's Inside" for Mits.

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post #277 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 06:31 AM
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Has anyone done this procedure and experienced a poorly aligned image once done? I have an '08 WD-73736. Not long after getting it, I started getting a few of the "blobs" that others have experienced: faint light-colored orbs on black backgrounds, that were presumably dust specs somewhere internally. Although I had seen this thread, it didn't bother me enough to motivate me to tear the set apart. After 3.5 years and nearly 5000 hrs on the lamp... I had to tear my entire system apart anyway to swap out my AVR, I figured it was time to put a fresh bulb in, so I figured it was time to clean out the light path. Although I hadn't noticed the orbs in a long time, I think because there was enough dust at this point that a few orbs just became so many that they weren't as noticeable.

I took the light engine out, and took the lens assembly off the light engine. The front lens (the large one that is exposed inside of the set) had a fair amount of dust on it, but the internal one that is "sealed" inside the light engine was clean. I didn't have the haze that many of you had. Put it all back together and checked it out, and suddenly I could see TONS of orbs! It almost seemed worse, but I think perhaps the fresh bulb and the cleaning of dust off of the large lens just made them more noticeable.

After thinking about it, I figured the orbs had to be due to dust on the DMD, because a black background image should have the light available to produce the orbs, unless the dust as at the DMD... if dust is on the DMD, it can reflect light before the individual mirrors are able to redirect the light away from the screen. So I tore it apart again, took the lens assembly back off, and got the light engine in the sunlight so I could see the DMD really well. Sure enough, when I held it at the correct angle, I could see a lot of dust near the surface of the DMD. But it wasn't on the surface of the top layer of glass inside the light engine: it seemed trapped behind that glass. I couldn't get to it, and I didn't really know how the DMD was attached in there and if I would cause irreparable damage trying to get to it. So I accepted defeat, and put it all back together.

When I powered the set on this time, I suddenly noticed the image was about 2-3" below the top of the screen. I was really perplexed by this, because unlike the earlier models shown in the OP, my '08 model does not have any image position adjustments. The light engine simply slides in and screws into one place. For better or for worse, they depend on their manufacturing tolerances to get the image centered close enough, then rely on overscan and electronic image adjustments to take care of the rest. But in my case, the image was now so far off that it was still an inch shy from the top after maxing out the electronic adjustments.

I took the light engine out, put it back in, and still the same. I turned the set on then looked inside one of the side access panels, and I could tell by the light passing through the lens that the problem didn't seem to be how the light engine was installed in the TV... the image was misaligned coming out of the lens! The image coming out of the lens was aimed too low relative to the rectangular mask in front of the lens. I took the LE out again, confirmed that the lens assembly was indeed installed flat/flush onto the LE. I could find no obvious reason for the image to be misaligned.

Since the lens appeared to attached to the LE correctly (at some point in this process, I took it off and put it back on, with the same problem), it seemed to me that there could only be two other places that would affect how the image is aimed prior to the image coming through the mask on the final lens: the wobulation mirror, and the DMD itself. Given that my set was unusable as it was, and the whole reason for starting this process in the first place was to get rid of dust, much of which was on the DMD itself, I decided to try it.

I took off the plate that covers that circuit board, the DMD heatsink, then the circuit board itself. Much to my relief, it was a fairly simple process. Nothing there is "hermetically sealed" (obvious by the presence of dust) or otherwise needs any special tools. The DMD is attached to the circuit board, and once removed you have full access to the glass on the LE, and the surface of the DMD (which still has some kind of glass covering on it). I didn't clean either with any fluid or cloth, I simply blew the dust off with a can of compressed air.

I put it back together, then proceeded to take off the wobulation mirror. All seemed fine in there (didn't require cleaning), so I put it back together. I then put the LE back in the TV, and strangely, the image was now only about 1/4" low (with the electronic adjustments at the same settings as they were before I started any of this). So I was pleased with that, as I knew I could easily adjust that out. Checked out the image on a black screen, and finally no orbs! NOW the set is back to looking like new!

Sadly though, I still have no understanding of what caused my initial misalignment, nor what got it fixed (well, fixed close enough). Believe it or not, I think this post is a compressed version of the actual process. I took the LE in and out many times, checking and re-checking how the lens was attached to the LE (since that was the only thing I disassembled initially), as well as how the LE attaches to the TV. The only contribution I can make is that possibly the internals of the LE may be sealed better than the earlier models: both the wobulation mirror and the internal lens were very clean on mine. At least on mine, dust in between the DMD and the glass on the light engine casting was the biggest problem, but that's not as hard to clean as you would at first fear.


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post #278 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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"orbs"???
Screen shot would be nice.

Through your involved, lengthly procedure, did you think to take some pics?

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post #279 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

"orbs"???

Sorry, I was trying to remember what "terminology" people had used for them before. The technically correct term appears to be blob. See here for a post about them. I haven't taken any pictures of them, others may have, not sure. Back when I first got my set I remember finding others describing the exact same thing I saw, but that was some time ago. They're really only noticeable on a black or mostly black screen. They're visible as faint round areas of a slight amount of light on a black background, probalby 2-3" on my 73" screen. One appeared, then another, and another. But I eventually stopped noticing them, until I put the new bulb in and cleaned the lens.

Quote:
Through your involved, lengthly procedure, did you think to take some pics?

No, I'm sorry. I know I should have, but this was part of a much larger project that took much longer than it should have, with a nagging "when can we watch TV again? When is this mess going to be cleaned up? Is that TV even going to work after you've taken it all apart?" going on in the background. It just wasn't one of those well organized methodical proceedures you think to document, or even an experience you WANT to be able to remember.


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post #280 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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It just wasn't one of those well organized methodical proceedures you think to document, or even an experience you WANT to be able to remember.

but, would of been very helpful if you need to do it again or run across someone else that needs to.

I hate to say it, I have referred back to this when I did it a 2nd time.

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post #281 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

but, would of been very helpful if you need to do it again or run across someone else that needs to.

Yes, I know, and I apologize. With that said, since I just did this yesterday, I can still describe it fairly well (speaking specifically about cleaning dust trapped between the DMD and the light engine casing). FWIW, in MY case (and in the case where you are dealing with "blobs" rather than halos or haze), this is what I would try first before taking apart the lens assembly:

On the opposite side of the light engine assembly, there is a perforated metal shield (with a small fan), that covers the DMD board. The fan can stay attached to the shield, just remove the fan electrical connector. Remove all the screws around the perimiter of the shield, and remove the shield. Disconnect all the elecrical cables from the board. One of them (appears to go to the color wheel) is very fragile, as it is the ribbon cable type that has no connector: the cable is the connector. It's easy to pull out, just be carefull when you reassemble. There are several more screws attaching the board to the light engine housing, remove all those. At this point, all that will be holding the board onto the light engine will be the two screws going through the DMD heat sink. Remove those (dont' lose the springs). On mine, at least, threre was no thermal paste between the heat sink and the back of the DMD chip, only a pad (which wasn't melted like the ones commonly found on CPUs), so the heat sink easily separates from the DMD. At this point, the board is free and can be removed from the light engine casing.

There is a glass window in the light engine assembly, as well as the surface of the DMD itself, that can accumulate dust. These two surfaces are probably less than 1/8" apart when everything is assembled. There is some gasket material between the DMD chip and the light engine housing, but it appears more like the metal grounding material rather than anything air tight, and it's not contiguous around the edges: there are gaps at the corners. So dust does get in there. And since this is at the surface of the DMD itself, these dust particles are illuminated even during a completely black scene, making little "blobs" that are visible on a black background. I simply blew them off with a can of compressed air. I also blew all the dust out of the whole area, including the small fan.

Everything then re-assembles in the reverse order. NOTE however that at least on mine, there there is a tiny pad on the heat sink intended to make contact with a tiny IC chip near the DMD. There are two ways to mount the heat sink (rotated 0 or 180°), but only one way will make that pad mate up to that chip. Don't forget to put the springs back on the screws for the heat sink. Some of the holes on the DMD board that attach it to the light engine are shared as mounting holes for the metal shield, so don't put screws in holes that you'll only have to remove again when you go to put the shield on. Make sure you put all the electrical connectors back on (and be carefule with the thin ribbon cable), and you're done.


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post #282 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 08:53 AM
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You know Bruce, I'm starting to think that perhaps the LE design changed from your model, to some of the later ones. Looking at your picture that shows the DMD:



It appears as though the entire DMD chip is visible from within the light engine. I don't remember being able to see as much of the chip around the (imaging) mirror portion itself from within the LE. On mine, there is a relatively small hole in the casting of the light engine housing, not much larger than the mirror portion of the DMD. There is a glass window covering this hole, so this chamber within the casing is relatively sealed: the lens bolts on from one side, there's the glass window over the DMD on the opposite side, and there's also a lens where light enters this chamber from the color wheel. If there is no glass between the DMD and that chamber on yours, that could explain why the surface of my lens was clean, but you may not have the problem with dust getting between the DMD and the glass.

If that's the case, then perhaps people of later year models may not need to bother with taking the lens assembly off, but people with earlier year models may not need to take off the DMD board to get dust off the surface of the DMD.


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post #283 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


I'm starting to think that perhaps the LE design changed from your model, to some of the later ones.

I'm sure it did. I'm also sure they are more than aware of the dust issue with the 2007 design (but will never admit it).

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post #284 of 388 Old 01-16-2012, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I'm also sure they are more than aware of the dust issue with the 2007 design (but will never admit it).

I don't think they solved it, they just moved it. Though honestly, I don't know why they couldn't have done a better job of sealing off the gap between the DMD and the window (on my version).


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post #285 of 388 Old 01-22-2012, 09:28 AM
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Has anyone played with the adjustments on the lens? IIRC from when I had my light engine out, there were two adjustable levers on the lens. I would expect that they use a common light engine between different sized sets, which would mean they'd have to have a way of adjusting the projected image size. So I wonder if one of those levers will function as a "zoom", and the other to re-focus after changing the zoom? If so, that could be a method to adjust out the (excessive, IMHO) overscan. Has anyone tried this?


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post #286 of 388 Old 01-22-2012, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I wouldn't.
What year/model series?

I just did my third cleaning which seems to happening closer together. Less than 600 hours from the last time.
I was expecting a longer period of time, but I guess as it ages, the problem could get worse. The 'haze' wasn't that bad, but noticeable.

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post #287 of 388 Old 01-22-2012, 03:42 PM
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Mine is an '08 73736.


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post #288 of 388 Old 02-06-2012, 10:23 PM
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just wanted to say thx! my 2006 mits 65732 picture quality looks like its brand new. maybe better! that lens cleaning tutorial is definetly the ticket!!!!
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post #289 of 388 Old 02-07-2012, 04:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Welcome to the forums. Glad you finally posted.

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post #290 of 388 Old 02-07-2012, 01:50 PM
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update:

since cleaning the lens, my TV has stopped "flickering" when scenes go from dark to bright, and vice versa. i thought the cleaning fixed it, i opened her up again last night to align the picture and it turns out i forgot to plug the 3-pin connector for the iris back in. i plugged it back in and the "flickering" came back although not as severe as it was before the lens cleaning. i think i'll leave it unplugged for now.
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post #291 of 388 Old 02-07-2012, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Interesting test as I thought about trying the same, but assumed the TV wouldn't like it, refusing to boot or similar.

Question, since I beleive the feature has a downside other then the flickering, since you kept that cable disconnected, does it now seem to stabilize the 'blacks'?
I find I'm constantly 'tweaking' the brightness all the time from going from bright, high contrast day scenes to low contrast night scenes.

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post #292 of 388 Old 02-22-2012, 01:36 PM
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Just had a lamp/bulb blow so I think it might be a good time to check out my lens too and see if it needs cleaning.

I have a (2006) 57831.

Couple questions

1. I have a couple cleaning clothes laying around that come with screen protectors for ipod, phones etc, will something like that work for a lint free cloth?
2. Will CRT/Monitor cleaning wipes work instead of lens solution? It says contents is isopropyl alcohol. They are Read Right (RR1209/RR1309) one step cleaning pads.
3. I already had one replaced under warranty. Since I can't now turn my TV on, not sure how many hours I got out of it. I think my first was around 3600. What is a good source for replacement lamps? There are many on amazon etc.

Thanks
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post #293 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 05:14 AM - Thread Starter
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1. Probably way too small,
2. I wouldn't, CRT's are glass, theses screens are not,
3. Look through the sticky at the top of this sub-forum, there are a list of lamp suppliers. Getting just the lamp is cheaper, but requires some work, the whole assembly is more $$.

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post #294 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 09:22 AM
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#3 there are also a lot of bad lamps out there when obtained this way. Cheaper is not always best if the lamp is bad. Be careful. At least with the more expensive Mitsubishi supplied replacement lamp, you have an approved lamp with a warranty.
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post #295 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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The list doesn't include eBay. You can go thru Mits, but it usually costs more, besides some dealers will give a warranty.

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post #296 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 10:51 AM
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Yes, there are a lot out there. Most links from videobruces threads are really old and aren't accurate/dead.

I'm trying to make sure I get either a osram or philips. It seems for the xx831 series the bulbs are the same, part # 915P049020.

Looking at this one right now.

http://www.amazon.com/Osram-915P0490...0022663&sr=8-2

Looked on mitsubishi-tv.com and couldn't find a parts section. Do they still sell direct?
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post #297 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Most links from videobruces threads are really old and aren't accurate/dead.

Ok, provide a list of all these "old/dead" links related to lamp replacements as there were three listed and on went to the wrong category of that site.

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post #298 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebo51 View Post

Yes, there are a lot out there. Most links from videobruces threads are really old and aren't accurate/dead.

I'm trying to make sure I get either a osram or philips. It seems for the xx831 series the bulbs are the same, part # 915P049020.

Looking at this one right now.

http://www.amazon.com/Osram-915P0490...0022663&sr=8-2

Looked on mitsubishi-tv.com and couldn't find a parts section. Do they still sell direct?

I have ordered this one from Amazon.com and have had good luck with it. The one I got was a Phillips. It's cheaper and comes in a new housing making it a snap to replace.

http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-915...sr=1-1-catcorr
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post #299 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 11:38 AM
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Except that Mitsubsihi does not use Philips, they use Osram so I would not assume Philips replacement is OK.

At least check the warranty from your source as you cannot go to Mitsubishi if the Philips lamp fails.
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post #300 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Thomas View Post

I have ordered this one from Amazon.com and have had good luck with it. The one I got was a Phillips. It's cheaper and comes in a new housing making it a snap to replace.

http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-915...sr=1-1-catcorr

I saw that one, but it is a different part number. 915P049010 and mine is a 915P049020. I have a 57831.

Actually the lamp I pulled out which was a warranty replacement says it is a 915P049A20. It was from Fry's I think. I haven't looked at the actual bulb inside yet. It actually popped, so there is glass shaking around in it. I haven't touched it and held my breath when I took it out and put it in a bag. All I know about mercury is that it is not good for humans .
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