Mitsubishi 2007 (and possibility '06 & '08) lens cleaning procedure. No more halo's. - Page 11 - AVS Forum
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post #301 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebo51 View Post

I saw that one, but it is a different part number. 915P049010 and mine is a 915P049020. I have a 57831.

Actually the lamp I pulled out which was a warranty replacement says it is a 915P049A20. It was from Fry's I think. I haven't looked at the actual bulb inside yet. It actually popped, so there is glass shaking around in it. I haven't touched it and held my breath when I took it out and put it in a bag. All I know about mercury is that it is not good for humans .

Here is a link to the last one I ordered. It is a 915P049020. I also have the 57831.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details
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post #302 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Thomas View Post

Here is a link to the last one I ordered. It is a 915P049020. I also have the 57831.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

I saw that one too during my search, but it doesn't state that the type of bulb. I read on here to try and avoid OEM replacements etc and go with Osram or Philips.

I just looked at my bulb and and it is an Osram.

How long have you had this one (how many hours on it) and how is it doing?

Thanks
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post #303 of 388 Old 02-23-2012, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Ok, provide a list of all these "old/dead" links related to lamp replacements as there were three listed and on went to the wrong category of that site.

I don't know and I'm not about to go back and check each one I clicked on again . I'm not saying ones that you personal posted, but from others.

One link you posted in this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1256432 doesn't work anymore. You said they are from Indiana and so am I, so if close I might just be able to go pick one up. My search for River Valley Electronics didn't turn anything up in Indiana and they don't have an address on their home page. I didn't get a chance to call them.
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post #304 of 388 Old 03-03-2012, 02:35 PM
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My tv wd57732 has a purple/green blur on edges of images on the screen.

I'm guessing that the halo or blooming effect doesnt look like this or introduce new colors like purple and green to certain images.

I just finished the cleaning process described at the beginning of this thread and there was an oily film on the lens but after cleaning it the p/g blur was still there.

I've attached photos of the tv screen with these problems. Let me know if any one has an answer for me.

Thanks
LL
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post #305 of 388 Old 03-03-2012, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebo51 View Post

[snip]...Looked on mitsubishi-tv.com and couldn't find a parts section. Do they still sell direct?

https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/ModelSelection.aspx

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post #306 of 388 Old 03-03-2012, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Zebo51; According to someone else, RV does not sells lamps anymore. I corrected my OP post.

biggreen10; That is an processing issue, check the DVI plug for starters, be sure it is seated properly. Other than that, I couldn't tell you, that surely isn't from cleaning.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #307 of 388 Old 03-04-2012, 04:55 PM
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videobruce, still check the dvi cable even though the issue is with any input OTA, Comp or HDMI?

I did have to disconnect and reconnect the DVI cable from within the TV per the cleaning instructions. I havent used the DVI in years.

All repair places are saying I'm going to have to replace the LE. But with TV's currently priced I dont think that is worth it.

Any help is appreciated.
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post #308 of 388 Old 03-04-2012, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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The internal DVI cable that you had to remove to pull out the LE.
If it wasn't that way before you removed the LE, cleaning the inner lens assembly wouldn't do anything unless something was on it's way out and by servicing it it took it's toll if this doesn't solve the problem.

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post #309 of 388 Old 03-06-2012, 06:14 PM
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Ok, finally got a new bulb well actually ended up getting the whole lamp. Fired it up just to make sure things worked and it did. So just got done doing the cleaning. I'm at the point of checking the alignment. Right now my Overscan alignment is showing

Red 4%
White 5%
Green 6.5%
Cyan 7.5%
Yellow 10%

My screen was not level. I should have check this before I took things apart because I believe it was off a little before hand. The reason I think this is because I marked all my screws and put them back to exactly the same spots.

Anyway, how do I shrink my screen so to speak? The green shows on the sides, but not top and bottom. Also I don't see cyan or yellow.

Thanks.

Edit: I meant to say I see yellow, cyan on all sides. Then I only see green on the sides, not top & bottom. I don't see white or red at all.
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post #310 of 388 Old 03-07-2012, 05:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Anyway, how do I shrink my screen so to speak?

You don't. Tilt you can.

What/where did the pattern come from? Internal?

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post #311 of 388 Old 03-07-2012, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

You don't. Tilt you can.

What/where did the pattern come from? Internal?

I'm using the test pattern in the service menu, hitting FF.

So all I need to do is make it level and make sure it doesn't tilt to one side or the other?

I don't need to worry about how many or which lines I can see?

My green and cyan are off by .5% of what I saw posted somewhere.

Thanks
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post #312 of 388 Old 03-07-2012, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


So all I need to do is make it level and make sure it doesn't tilt to one side or the other?

Correct. If it off by a slight amount, leave it alone.
Quote:


I don't need to worry about how many or which lines I can see?

You can center the image both vertically and horizontally in the SM.

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post #313 of 388 Old 03-07-2012, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Correct. If it off by a slight amount, leave it alone.You can center the image both vertically and horizontally in the SM.

Yes, I know the two settings to center it V & H. Since I can't see all 5 different colors all the way around, does that mean I will be missing some of the pictures? I guess I just don't really know what this test does or means and what sort of outcome I should be getting.

Thanks
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post #314 of 388 Old 03-07-2012, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


Since I can't see all 5 different colors all the way around, does that mean I will be missing some of the pictures?

Almost all TV's overscan to some degree unless they have pixel to pixel mapping, just scan or similar settings which are mostly LCD displays.

CRT's were much, much worse.

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post #315 of 388 Old 03-12-2012, 08:48 AM
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Just wanted to post another successful clean. I followed VBs documentation and it was pretty easy.

I did a few things different I will note. For the adjustment screws, I took a silver sharpie and marked each one. This way I could get them back to the exact position. Also even though noted to only loosen the right side one, the left one was kinda glued or stuck, so I gave it a little twist and then used a screwdriver to pop it loose.

For the actual lens cleaning, I just used a micro fiber cloth I had left over from a film protector that you put on phones. Or maybe it was for an ipod, but either way that doesn't matter. I didn't use any lens solution either, just wiped it with the cloth. It was a little tough at first, but it came off after a couple firm wipes. Then just kept rubbing in a circular motion with a clean part of the cloth until it was nice and smooth.

I also cleaned all the fans etc. I just removed them and used compressed air instead of trying to do it with a queue tip while in place.

I video taped everything I did, that way if I needed to go back and review to see something I could. If I was better at video editing, I would make it nice and pretty and post it, but I'm not. VBs pictures I think are enough to go on though.

My picture is nice and bright. I also replaced my bulb, so that comes in to play, but I definitely had crap on the lens.

I think the only thing I would have done differently is go into the ISF and check the overscan first. Maybe have taken a picture or video so I had that to compare to what it looked like after it was all put back together. I don't think mine was dead on to begin with, so when I got it all back together I noticed it was a little crooked. I must have messed with it for hours before I finally just said it is close enough.

Oh and if you do mess with the rotation screws, you can't just adjust one without moving the opposite screw in or out. So as you tighten say the right, you would need to loosen the left just as many turns. If not, you will just start bending those metal arms out. Learned that the hard way .

Thanks to all that have helped build this thread.
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post #316 of 388 Old 03-25-2012, 04:49 PM
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I'm happy to report that after 5 years, 11,818 hours, one lamp replacement and one lens cleaning later, my Mits 57732 is still looking as good as it did the day it was delivered.

Please don't confront me with my failures, I'm aware of them. - Greg Allman
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post #317 of 388 Old 03-26-2012, 05:30 AM - Thread Starter
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How many hours when you cleaned the lens?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #318 of 388 Old 03-27-2012, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rich3fan View Post

I'm happy to report that after 5 years, 11,818 hours, one lamp replacement and one lens cleaning later, my Mits 57732 is still looking as good as it did the day it was delivered.

dang, i thought i use my TV a lot. my 65831 is also 5 years old and has 3,729 hours on it. cleaned the lens few months back and replaced bulb recently only because the old one has started to dim. Fry's pretty much gave me a free replacement lamp when I kept asking a thousand questions about the bulb's lifespan when i bought the set.
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post #319 of 388 Old 03-28-2012, 09:13 AM
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I got a notice in the mail yesterday concerning several models of this TV.

There has been a decision in a class-action lawsuit concerning capacitors and lamp problems. You can look up Civil Action No. 3:09-cv-01899 (RNC) or check this link http://settlement.mdea.com/ to see if your model qualifies.

If you have one of these models, this could be good news for you.

For the capacitor problem: (V26 or V30 chassis)
Option 1: You can receive a repair of your television with no charge for parts and labor.
Option 2: You have the opportunity to purchase a 2011 Mitsubishi DLP television at the dealer cost. Mitsubishi will ship the new television to you and will take your previous Mitsubishi television away, as required by the settlement.

For the models with the lamp problem: (V33 or V34 chassis)
If you own or have owned any of the models listed under the V33 or V34 chassis, from Table 1, that has not already received a free new mesh design lamp from Mitsubishi and has experienced a failure of the original lamp between April 1, 2011 and September 30, 2011, you are eligible to receive a free, new mesh design, replacement lamp. This new lamp will be warranted for three (3) months from the date it was shipped to you from Mitsubishi.
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post #320 of 388 Old 03-28-2012, 09:51 AM
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This is aggravating. I sold my television because of my frustration with the bulbs. A new bulb will do me no good. The stinking 65731 cost me almost $3000 when I bought it and I was lucky to get $400 on the used market.
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post #321 of 388 Old 03-28-2012, 10:32 AM
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I do not know when you sold your unit, but over $400 for a used TV (that must have had some hours on it to cause frustration on the number of lamps replaced) is very good.

Used TVs, of any make or model, have poor re-sale value after about 2 years.
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post #322 of 388 Old 03-28-2012, 03:28 PM
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I only sold it because of the insane amount of problems I had with it. I will never buy a Mitsubishi product again. My point was that if you spend $3000 for a television you should be able to enjoy it for a length of time.
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post #323 of 388 Old 03-28-2012, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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"I'll never buy a ********* product again"
I wish I had a dollar for every time I have heard that. That and the "it should last forever" (or words to that effect) statement.

Most companies will make good to one extent or another if you know how to handle it. I'm not saying Mits is the best, but I have had 1st hand experience via writing a letter to the President many years ago and got results.

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post #324 of 388 Old 03-31-2012, 09:55 PM
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did you go through the front of the DLP tv?
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post #325 of 388 Old 04-01-2012, 04:48 AM - Thread Starter
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^^ Huh???

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post #326 of 388 Old 04-09-2012, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freelancer1988 View Post

I just picked up a wd-73833 with a bad dlp chip. I have the chip ordered. I will be tackling the cleaning of this thing very soon when I get the chip replaced. So all I need is some long q-tips and some lens cleaning solution for the dlp lens? Can I use the same for the glass board on the back? or would just some regular glass cleaner work? lol. I looked over most of the pages without a definite answer. Seems like each their own.


LATE UPDATE: I got the TV tore apart, replaced the DLP chip and cleaned everything up and made sure all my fans were working. TV looks brilliant. My bulb was kinda dim so I replaced it with a cheap Amazon bulb... My mistake... It popped... twice... Now the guy is telling me it has to be my TV. Put the old OSRAM original dim bulb back in and no problems.... Ordering a NEW OSRAM e22h 150/180 bulb and hopefully that will solve the problem.
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post #327 of 388 Old 04-10-2012, 04:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I supposed you never took any photos of the process for others to benefit?

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post #328 of 388 Old 04-16-2012, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I supposed you never took any photos of the process for others to benefit?

Here's a video on Youtube on how to do the chip replacement. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyAykjZ3zs4
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post #329 of 388 Old 04-16-2012, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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1. No need for gloves doing this, static wrist strap would make more sense,
2. Needed to be far more careful disconnecting those connectors, labeling each if necessary,
3. Never use a powered tool to remove circuit board screws, ok on cabinet covers, but surely not anywhere near a circuit board. Note where the bit slipped a couple of times,
4. Needed to be more careful removing that DMD chip and reinstalling the new. Alignment is most critical here.

I hope that wasn't you doing this.

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post #330 of 388 Old 04-16-2012, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

1. No need for gloves doing this, static wrist strap would make more sense,
2. Needed to be far more careful disconnecting those connectors, labeling each if necessary,
3. Never use a powered tool to remove circuit board screws, ok on cabinet covers, but surely not anywhere near a circuit board. Note where the bit slipped a couple of times,
4. Needed to be more careful removing that DMD chip and reinstalling the new. Alignment is most critical here.

I hope that wasn't you doing this.

No, not me I had the same thoughts regarding using the powered tool. My understanding of the connectors on this model is that each wire is labeled and is keyed so you can't plug them in incorrectly. I just posted the video link since I thought it'd be helpful for this thread.
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