Mitsubishi 2007 (and possibility '06 & '08) lens cleaning procedure. No more halo's. - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 388 Old 09-05-2010, 02:11 PM
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Thanks all the way VideoBruce,
I have one more problem.
I used a compressed air cleaner duster to blow on the Dlp chip and the Prism Lance over it (has also small mirror in it), In case if I have got some dust particuls in it during the process. But now I see some big particals on the inner portion of the Lance that I cannot access withour openning it and taking the lance out.
I tried the top 4-5 screws to unscrew them but cannot take off the cover assembly (Black color Plastic) which is over that Lance, may be it looks like glued or some thing. Any idea or suggestions on how to take off that cover assembly or clean that Prism lance.
Your instruction post #7 second pic.
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post #182 of 388 Old 09-06-2010, 04:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
I used a compressed air cleaner duster to blow on the Dlp chip and the Prism Lance over it (has also small mirror in it), In case if I have got some dust particuls in it during the process. But now I see some big particals on the inner portion of the Lance that I cannot access withour openning it and taking the lance out.

The very next post (in bold & italics) stated not to use compressed air.

To answer your question, I would have no idea. Anyone else want to venture a guess?

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post #183 of 388 Old 09-06-2010, 05:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Are you referring to this part of the assembly (on the right)?




Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #184 of 388 Old 09-06-2010, 05:35 AM
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[quote=videobruce;19151132]Are you referring to this part of the assembly (on the right)?

Yes! exactly the same, the one on the right (black color cover)
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...ruce/16DMD.jpg
thanks
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post #185 of 388 Old 09-06-2010, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I really wouldn't think of opening that up. Try another quick shot of compressed air. I guess it wouldn't hurt.
(You don't need to use the quote function, especially w/ a image that was just above your post)

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post #186 of 388 Old 09-19-2010, 09:19 AM
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I have a 65831 mfg in 9/2006

My light engine (I think its the optical block) has a foam bellows like thing connected to it preventing me from sliding out the light engine. How do I disconnect that thing without tearing it?
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post #187 of 388 Old 09-19-2010, 09:49 AM
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nevermind....I was being too paranoid. I finally opened the side portal to take a look and saw that it was just a snug fit around the lens and carefully took it off.
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post #188 of 388 Old 09-21-2010, 02:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkb View Post

I have a 65831 mfg in 9/2006

My light engine (I think its the optical block) has a foam bellows like thing connected to it preventing me from sliding out the light engine. How do I disconnect that thing without tearing it?

Don't worry about it, just pull out the light engine, It is just like a flap and will get re-adjusted when you put the engine back.
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post #189 of 388 Old 09-21-2010, 12:37 PM
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First off, just wanted to say thanks for the great post. I was recently offered a 57732 for free, but turned it down because of the halo problem. My girlfriend then decided to take in the TV and despite trying to dodge the responsibility, I'm stuck with fixing it. I'll be doing the cleaning this weekend and I'll be sure to take pictures of each step and then post them here when I'm done.

The TV she received is impossible to see looking at it from any direction other than head on. Is this due to the bulb dying? I had her order a replacement, as I figured the TV probably needs a new one at this point anyway. Are there any other restorative procedures I should be doing since I'm going to be sinking my entire Saturday into this anyway?

Thanks in advance!
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post #190 of 388 Old 09-22-2010, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I never heard of a non CRT RPTV (or any other) that was that dark. Is this in a bright room in daytime or a light controlled room?

When the lamp dies, it dies, there is no middle ground. Have you 'tweaked' the set yet?

BTW, welcome to the forums (and your girlfriend did the right thing).

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #191 of 388 Old 09-22-2010, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I never heard of a non CRT RPTV (or any other) that was that dark. Is this in a bright room in daytime or a light controlled room?

When the lamp dies, it dies, there is no middle ground. Have you 'tweaked' the set yet?

I had one lamp which dimmed significantly before it went out, so it is possible.
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post #192 of 388 Old 09-22-2010, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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That's a first.

How long did this 'dim' state last?

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post #193 of 388 Old 09-22-2010, 10:15 AM
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I ordered a new lamp when I first noticed it and it took a few days before it arrived. The dimming progressed during that time.

I wasn't even sure it was a lamp problem because I thought they just "blew" but the replacement took care of the problem.
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post #194 of 388 Old 09-30-2010, 12:02 PM
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As many others have said, BIG thanks to you Bruce for posting such detailed instructions and pictures. I had noticed the blooming problem a while back but it wasn't bad enough to warrant a fix yet. Well, I was watching 'The Fifth Element' last night and really noticed it in the opening credits so I pulled up the thread, set my laptop on the floor and followed them...my lens wasn't too bad but I definitely noticed a difference after I put it all back together.
The only addition I would make to your excellent tutoral is make sure your small phillips screwdriver has a very sharp tip...if you don't have one that does, hold off and go get one. Those last 3 screws are really small and easily stripped. I almost found out the hard way before I finally found a tip for my nut driver that was super sharp and dropped in to the head properly.
Anyway, thanks again VB. These threads are invaluable when it comes to stuff like this!!
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post #195 of 388 Old 10-01-2010, 04:17 AM - Thread Starter
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make sure your small Phillips screwdriver has a very sharp tip

Better known as a #1 Phillips. #2 is standard, #3 has a blunt tip for large screws.
Thanks for the kudos.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #196 of 388 Old 10-03-2010, 06:14 PM
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I followed your directions regarding tools needed to make the repair but the tip labeled '1' was too big for the screws...not sure what's up with that. In the end I found one that worked so I guess that's all that really matters
As someone said earlier in this thread, the improvement to the picture doesn't stop with the lack of blooming...the blacks are blacker, colors more vibrant and the brightness and contrast are definitely up. I had to back my settings off 6-7 notches from where they were for both...definitely worth your time if you're thinking about doing it
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post #197 of 388 Old 10-04-2010, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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the improvement to the picture doesn't stop with the lack of blooming...the blacks are blacker, colors more vibrant and the brightness and contrast are definitely up. I had to back my settings off 6-7 notches from where they were for both.

That says the cleaning was long overdue.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #198 of 388 Old 10-06-2010, 04:37 PM
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I'm willing to pay someone in the South Jersey area to perform this cleaning for me. I'm too scared to attempt it myself.
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post #199 of 388 Old 10-07-2010, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffgun View Post

I followed your directions regarding tools needed to make the repair but the tip labeled '1' was too big for the screws...not sure what's up with that. In the end I found one that worked so I guess that's all that really matters
As someone said earlier in this thread, the improvement to the picture doesn't stop with the lack of blooming...the blacks are blacker, colors more vibrant and the brightness and contrast are definitely up. I had to back my settings off 6-7 notches from where they were for both...definitely worth your time if you're thinking about doing it

There are also metric phillips sizes of 0, 00 and 000.
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post #200 of 388 Old 11-02-2010, 05:10 AM
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Especially videobruce and the others before who pioneered this lens cleaning. I have a WD-65831 purchased in 2006. I have replaced the bulb before but in the past year my picture quality started to degrade. I decided to try the lens cleaning and reset all of my settings back to my original tweaks - also garnered from people on these threads - and its amazing. The picture appears to be as good as it was when I purchased it. I also have a 2 year old 55" LG LCD and 2 - 1 year old 55" Sony LCDs and this Mits picture at 65" is most times the more favorable picture to watch. I was waiting for some spectacular 65" sets to come along that would make me change out the 65831 but nothing has blown me away yet. Maybe next year! Until then, THANK YOU ALL AGAIN.

BTW - my inside lens had what looked like splashed droplets of some oily-resin like substance (I would have said it looked like sweat beads) and a slight fog on it, but the exposed lenses were clear.
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post #201 of 388 Old 11-02-2010, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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this Mits picture at 65" is most times the more favorable picture to watch.

No surprise, LCD's are terrible except for some selected content: computer displays and any graphics generated material including animated, computer generated movies.
Quote:


my inside lens had what looked like splashed droplets of some oily-resin like substance

Kinda confirms it's from the 'iris', probably some type of lubricant.

Since I have also had a Samsung DLP before this Mits, I will admit the Sammy did look better as reported in the 2007 RPTV shootout from Home Theater Magazine. The increased noise level was the biggest difference as reported though their noise reduction left on medium (default) does work without the expense of a 'softer' picture like most;
http://www.hometheatermag.com/rearpr...ace/index.html

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #202 of 388 Old 11-02-2010, 10:11 AM
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Quote: Since I have also had a Samsung DLP before this Mits, I will admit the Sammy did look better as reported in the 2007 RPTV shootout from Home Theater Magazine. The increased noise level was the biggest difference as reported though their noise reduction left on medium (default) does work without the expense of a 'softer' picture like most;
http://www.hometheatermag.com/rearpr...ace/index.html


I actually purchased mine in Nov 2006 - before the article - and also because of the NetCommand features at the time. However, I have always appreciated the picture quality. The article also compares the 731 series and I have the 831. I forget the differences but the picture always got compliments.
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post #203 of 388 Old 11-21-2010, 08:22 AM
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We have a 2006 52 inch Mits WD52628 that was purchased late in 2005. It has 6000 hours on it now and a bad case of the halo syndrome.
I've been folowing this thread for about a year and am getting close to performing the surgical procedure so well described here. I have a service manual that helps fill in the blanks and the differences from later models.

I thought I'd post a picture of the screen to see if anyone has any comments or suggestions. The picture was shot with a black screen from the attached computer generated with Monitortest.exe and has the mouse pointer on the right side. The set still looks good with brightly lighted scenes, but is horrible in dark scenes and movie credits. We use the set mostly for movies at night in a dark room.
LL
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post #204 of 388 Old 11-21-2010, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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That small green spot at the bottom, was that from your camera? Sounds as you are ready to get your feet (er, hands) wet.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #205 of 388 Old 11-21-2010, 10:12 AM
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The green spot is the PWR ON LED on the front of the set.

I'll probably start on this after Thanksgiving or New Year's, thanks to you and others. There was a time I would have taken it apart at the first hint of a problem, but over the decades I've become either wiser or more timid.

I'll have to browse the whole thread again to make sure I haven't missed something critical. I'l try to take pictures as I go and post those that are different from other models.
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post #206 of 388 Old 01-04-2011, 04:39 PM
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I am having an issue with color gradients on my WD-62827. Would this tutorial fix the issue I am having. I have attached 3 pictures of examples of the issue. I replaced the bulb about 6 months ago due to it going out at the time I had this same issue. Once I replaced it, the issue went away. It has gradually came back since then and now has got to a point where it is almost unbearable.

If this guide won't fix it can you point me in the right direction.

Thanks.



Here the ocean should be a gradual blue color not the abrupt change.



Here the background color should all be one color or a slight gradient.



Here you can see the discoloration on the actors head.
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post #207 of 388 Old 01-05-2011, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
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And the model number is?

1. How about an image directly off the internal tuner, or better yet a test DVD image (gray scale, SMPTE color bars etc.) w/o the on screen stuff showing?
2. I assume it is on all inputs?
3. What does the TV's menu look like?
4. How many hours on the set?

It's probably a LE change.

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post #208 of 388 Old 01-06-2011, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

And the model number is?

1. How about an image directly off the internal tuner, or better yet a test DVD image (gray scale, SMPTE color bars etc.) w/o the on screen stuff showing?
2. I assume it is on all inputs?
3. What does the TV's menu look like?
4. How many hours on the set?

It's probably a LE change.

The model number is WD-62827.

1. All I have are THX DVD/BlueRays...will that work? What test patters would be best?
2. Yes, this problem is on all inputs.
3. The TV menu is a slightly different color plus it is also grainy.
4. I don't know where to get he total number of hours, but it is on for about 6 hrs or so a day. For the last 6 months...so if i multiple that out it should be 1080 hours.

I'm usually not the first person to turn the TV on, but last night I was and I noticed that when the TV is off for an extended period of time the issues is very minor to non existent at first and then over the course of 30-45 min come back to the full blown problem.
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post #209 of 388 Old 01-06-2011, 03:03 PM
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Still willing to pay someone to perform this fix for me. I am in South Jersey, about 20 miles east of Philly.
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post #210 of 388 Old 01-07-2011, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


What test patters would be best?

A gray scale pattern with crosses stepped levels. You can also use the internal test patterns;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...20&postcount=8

Hours are in the main Service Menu.


LSpera; Post the request in your local reception forum.

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