Mitsubishi 2007 (and possibility '06 & '08) lens cleaning procedure. No more halo's. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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My photos are specifically for the 57732 model. For other sizes and models, there are differences. Courtesy of amar1995, this thread shows pics of the 73732 which is completely different, even though both are the same series (732);
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1216182

I decided to do the procedure to solve the common 'halo' or 'blooming' effect with the 2007 Mit's DLP's. I believe this would also apply to the 2006 and 2008 model years. (Please correct me if this is wrong.)
What is happening is a film develops over time on one of the inner lens surfaces that creates a 'halo' or 'blooming' effect with bright objects on dark backgrounds. Similar to a power supply on a CRT going bad, hence the term "blooming".

A few members posted some photos of the procedure, but I found those to be lacking on exactly what to do and what to watch out for. This is not for a beginner. This involves removing the commonly called "light engine" and lens assembly to gain access to the problem area.


Other than going directly through the manufacture, there is at least one supplier of parts. The subject of replacing the color wheel has come up, but Mits does not list color wheels as a separate replacement part, you have to replace the whole LE. Here is a source for parts courtesy of forum member 'colour'. This is not solely for Mits;

http://www.discount-merchant.com/dlp-tv-parts-s/403.htm

A summary from two years ago on actual parts replacement costs;
Quote:
Optical Engine: $600 + $300 dud value,
Ballast: $70 + $50 dud value,
Signal PWB: $108 + $100 dud value,
DM PWB: $191 + $150 dud value,
57" screens (both including lens tape): $188 (shipping over $50, no return).

Again, these are dealer prices. For example the LE retail cost is $1,000.
The "dud" values are the defective part returned to Mits for the value stated (just like vehicle parts). If you adjust for shipping (around $20), it might be beneficial just to keep the defective assembly for parts. I would estimate to return the LE, shipping would be at least $30. Subtract that from the 'dud' value and it now becomes $270 credit. Considering what's there, it might be of value just to keep it since you can't buy any of those parts separately.


For the xx627 series, Doug40 provided these four posts;


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20039171

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post #2 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Tools needed:
1. #1 Philips screwdriver,
2. #2 Philips screwdriver,
3. 8mm or 5/8" open end wrench or nutdriver,
4. Small flat blade screwdriver,
5. Cotton swabs, lens tissue & lens cleaning solution,
6. Optional- small powered cordless screwdriver with Philips #2 bit. I have one from MCM Electronics I picked up for $10 that works remarkably well for the size and price.


1. Gain access to rear of set with ample room to work and proper lighting,
2. Unplug power cord and all other cables to input/ouput panel. If set has been on less than one hour ago, let it cool before you remove rear panel,
3. Remove 17 screws holding rear panel,
4. Disconnect cable with black connector on right side. No need to disconnect white connector as shown,
5. Disconnect five cables on left side: five wire yellow next to fan, DVI cable with Philips screw, green five wire cable w/ balck connector below multiple cable group, ground spade lug to chassis & two wire brown power cable from top of PS.





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post #3 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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6. Remove two bolts holding base plate and remove plate, do not loosen or remove lower silver screw,
7. Loosen right side adjustment bolt below base plate, do not loosen left side,
8. Watching cables on both sides, especially the left side, slide base out from chassis,
9. Move LE to a flat, clean, well lit surface. Place a towel on the surface to prevent scratches,




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post #4 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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These are shots of the optical block from three sides. The problem area is deep inside this assembly. The plastic 'box' shown in the 2nd and 3rd photo is the 'iris'.






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post #5 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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10. Rotate assembly so optical assembly is facing upwards,
11. Disconnect black & red cable. Use a small, flat screwdriver to release cable clip,
12. Remove three screws holding optical block and carefully lift straight up and out of the LE. Note, there is a long 'tube' that inserts into the base assembly,
13. Place removed assembly on table and remove the three small Philips screws (two shown) at base of this 'tube',
14. Twist and/or turn 'tube' to separate it from the rest of the assembly (jiggle if necessary). There is no gasket, it's just a tight fit. Place aside.





There is discussion regarding removing the internal mirror which I didn't do the 1st time. Below is a pic of the lens assembly & that mirror. Remove three sliver screws (not the three black) and pull the 'block' out after disconnecting the connector. I found the mirror clean and the surfaces of both lenses clean. I would advise skipping this unless you want to inspect, just in case.


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post #6 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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15. I used lens tissue and lens cleaning solution. I would suggest not using 'Windex' type of cleaner. Use circular motions, clean twice, let dry and look at the surface from different angles to be sure nothing is left or you didn't make new streaks. Another member suggested to remove the cover for the 'iris'. I didn't feel this was necessary. It's one more step and one more thing to go wrong. Just be aware, the 'iris' will protrude out into the opening you will have to use to clean the offending lens surface. Just be careful you don't bend or disturb this iris.
Depending on how 'bad' this surface is, this is where the problem is.

The first two shots is before and is what I saw. The haze you see at the top is not a reflection. (I was surprised how well the haze actually showed up in the photos.)





The next two shots are after:




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post #7 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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FWIW, here are a couple of side notes, First is a pic of that troublesome thermal sensor and second is the DMD chip inside the light engine.




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post #8 of 388 Old 05-20-2009, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
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16. After your satisfied with the cleaning, reverse the steps taking note to replace the two sets of three screws holding the lens sub assemblies together,
17. Slide the LE base back into the set, noting those 'pins' at the front of the set and the location of the two bolts that hold that plate in place,
18. Reconnect all six cables and be sure they are secure and don't scrape against any metal edges or interfer with anything,
19. After your sure the base is where is is suppose to be, put a piece of tape over that switch under the right side of the base (blue lever) and power up the TV,
20. Check for rotation with the test pattern from the service menu: Menu-2457, then press the fast forward button (>>) on the remote. The two black adjustment screws (one of which you loosened) adjust for this,
21. If the screen is level, tighten those two bolts that hold the base in place,
22. Now is the time to get some moistened cotton swabs and clean that rear fan. The blade tips, around the inner surface and the fins of the heat sink. You can also use a 'crevice' tool on a canister type of vaccumn cleaner if the dust buildup is excessive. Just don't use compressed air to blow the dust out.
22. Remove the tape from that safety switch and replace the rear panel and all 17 screws. (Nice to have a small power screwdriver.)
23. Lastly, reconnect all your cables, plug the set back in and cross your fingers. You did label those cables didn't you??










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post #9 of 388 Old 05-21-2009, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Anyway, the amount of 'film' in my case was not that great. This was after 18 months and 2200 hours. No smokers, no kids, but three pets. TV is in a corner with a cold air return behind the set.

You can also take a look at my "Just what's inside....." threads;
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=581146
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=638602
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=455897
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=674513
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=926204
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=593005
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=840847
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post7625830

On a related subject, here are some additional; pics of the ballast assembly and fan. I found the cage fan for the ballast & lamp very dirty and removed it from the area and used a soft brush & canister vacuum to clean the dust out. I also used a wet swab and cleaned the intake to the lamp housing.








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post #10 of 388 Old 05-21-2009, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

There are two routes where this 'haze' can come from. The metal lens tube and/or the opening for the iris. I frankly can't see how either would be a problem. The iris housing is taped and sealed and the lens barrel is such a tight fit. The only idea I have is from the iris moving and the associated drive is producing this haze. If anyone else has any ideas, please post.
This is from Freshmeat36;

You should be applauded for your extremely detailed and intuitive instructions.
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post #11 of 388 Old 05-22-2009, 06:54 AM - Thread Starter
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There are two routes where this 'haze' can come from. The metal lens tube and/or the opening for the iris. I frankly can't see how either would be a problem. The iris housing is taped and sealed and the lens barrel is such a tight fit. The only idea I have is from the iris moving and the associated drive is producing this haze. If anyone else has any ideas, please post.
This is from Freshmeat36;
Quote:
My quick observation is that the lens assembly is not sealed. It’s supposed to be but its not. More specifically, the duel lens assembly that is removed with a jeweler’s screwdriver is not sealed. My guess is that in the heating and cooling of that chamber there is a vacuum created. The vacuum pulls the particles in and ultimately become the haze on the lens. For that chamber to be sealed you would at least need some type of “O” ring in place when re-installing it. Anyone else have any thoughts on it?


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post #12 of 388 Old 05-22-2009, 09:40 PM
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We have replaced MANY light engines for this problem. Nice to know exactly what causes it and how to repair for out of warranty sets. Do you do TV repair for a living?
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post #13 of 388 Old 05-23-2009, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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No to the question, but I can't take credit for first finding where the problem is. Others discovered this long before me since I didn't have the problem. Of the three or four that didi post photos, only one had pics that kinda showed what/where the problem was.

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post #14 of 388 Old 06-15-2009, 09:12 AM
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Just to report additional successful results to this thread...

I followed the procedure as described. The problem was exactly as found by others - a misty haze on the lens near the iris. Alcohol, cotton swabs and a lens-cleaning cloth were all it took to remove the buildup. I also used a can of compressed air (held from a distance) to help blow out any dust I may have introduced.

I didn't have any major difficulties. I had a little problem loosening the three tiny phillips-head screws on the lens to get at the dirty lens. I had to press and turn fairly hard to get those to turn, and I worried I would strip them.


The results are stunning. The sharpness and color is back to factory-new.

My TV is a WD-65732, manufactured January 2007 (purchased Feb. 2007)
I replaced the lamp in March 2009 (it burned out with no warning). I bought a replacement lamp+housing online from DLPLampExpress.com

-David
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post #15 of 388 Old 06-15-2009, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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A #1 philips screwdriver would of done the trick.

BTW, welcome to the forums.

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post #16 of 388 Old 06-18-2009, 07:44 PM
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As I enjoy my newly cleaned TV, I can't help but wonder, how long before I have to do another cleaning. And next time I do it, can I seal the lens so this never happens again?
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post #17 of 388 Old 06-20-2009, 05:57 AM - Thread Starter
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How many hours are on the set now?
I don't see a way to stop this from happening (other than applying positive pressure inside that chamber) as I feel the only place the 'haze' is coming from is from the iris actuator.

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post #18 of 388 Old 06-23-2009, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post


I just did this cleaning of the innner lense and it wasn't enough. I actually had to remove the silver block here which holds the mirror in place to gain access to the inside of the biggest lense. I had what appeared to be condensation or some kind of chemical on the inside of that main lense that was causing my halo and blurriness. Needless to say I cleaned the inside of the other lense and the mirror while I was at it. Picture is great now.

Current Setup: HP SL4282N, HK AVR 247, 2 Polk RTi A1's,
Currently deciding on whether to go with 2 more RTi A1'ss with a CSi3 or 2 RTi A5's with a CSi33 or CSi5.
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post #19 of 388 Old 06-26-2009, 05:46 AM
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I just did this with my 65732. Mine had more of a smudge on it than a haze. It had the consistency of tape residue. My conlusion is that it is baked-on oil from the iris mechanism. The inside of the tube had an oily film. The only other possibility is it looked like some kind of thin grease was used on the tube register during assembly.

Either way, it was definitely a pain to get the smudge off.

PQ to come....I have a new 73837, so this one is just sitting with nothing connected to it.
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post #20 of 388 Old 06-26-2009, 07:08 AM - Thread Starter
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donatom3; Interesting. You should of taken a pic of this!

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post #21 of 388 Old 06-28-2009, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

donatom3; Interesting. You should of taken a pic of this!

I have the WD-57732

I had to do the same thing donatom3 did. I didn't think to take a pic either. I did the initial cleaning and it improved a bit but it was still noticabley washed out. I went back in a second time and removed the metal plate on that holds the mirror and cleaned both the back of the output lens and the other side of the tube lens. The mirror was fine and I did not touch it.

In order to remove the metal plate you only need to remove the 3 silver screws, and they are deeper than you would think.

I also used a lens cleaning kit that included a soft cloth, lens cleaning solution, and swabs. It did take 2 cleanings as stated before the residue is tough to remove.

My picture is now perfect!

I just wanted to say thanks to all who took the time to figure this one out!
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post #22 of 388 Old 06-28-2009, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Again, interesting. Amazing just how this 'film' gets in there. Judging by the condition my set was in, I doubt it would of been worth it for me to do so.

If anyone else does this, please take a series of pics (never take just one) and post them here.

tgregory; BTW, welcome to the forums.

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post #23 of 388 Old 07-05-2009, 11:31 AM
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I was going to replace My wd65831 till I found and followed this walk through. Thanks, kind of. I had talked myself into a 65 panasonic plasma, but now my tv isn't fuzzy any more so there is no need to replace it. Actually I feel very pleased with myself for cleaning up the guts of this thing. It was satisfying to repair this myself.
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post #24 of 388 Old 07-06-2009, 08:36 AM
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After replacing the lamp on my WD-57732 in April of this year, I noticed the picture was still not as good as it had once been. As a matter of fact, it looked almost hazy, or foggish. I fiddled with the picture settings trying to get it back to normal but couldn't. I have an older Sony KD-34XBR960 that sat in the bedroom. I swapped them out and put the Sony in the living room because it had a much better picture given the condition of the Mitsubishi TV.

A couple of weeks ago I stumbled upon this thread. I printed out the pictures and steps that were listed. Yesterday, I patiently went through the procedure being carefully not to mess anything up. I was actually relieved to see the film of whatever it is on the lens. I carefully cleaned it with alcohol and some qtips and finally a microfiber cloth. Got it put all back together and boy was I pleased at how the picture looked. The fogginess is now gone and the sharpness and black level has now returned. I'm looking forward to moving the Mitsubishi back in the living room just as soon as I can find someone help me move the 200 lb. Sony monster to the bedroom.

Thank you guys for taking the time to document this. It has brought back the joy that I once had with this TV.
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post #25 of 388 Old 07-06-2009, 02:11 PM
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Truly fantastic job videobruce, this is just another craptastic feature Mits implemented with their problematic xx831 series. Have they even attempted to correct this issue in more recent sets? Anyways I just had my whole lens assembly rebuilt, I'm gonna try to sell this set ASAP
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post #26 of 388 Old 07-20-2009, 09:05 AM
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I just bought a used wd-57381 for around $400 and was having major issues with over brightness, blurry colors and such. I followed the great instructions on here and now I have the nicest tv I have seen. Thanks
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post #27 of 388 Old 08-27-2009, 04:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks syphon00.

emporsche; welcome to the forums.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #28 of 388 Old 09-11-2009, 03:44 PM
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Thanks, videobruce!
I had the blooming/glare issue with my 65831 and the light engine was replaced under my service contract. I've stated this in one sentence, but it was a "10 page" effort to accomplish. I was told emphatically by more than one person that the light engine is "sealed", etc. and the lenses cannot get dirty in spite of the evidence that there was grime induced scattering and loss of contrast.
The glare is of course coming back, but now I am prepared to debate the service folks (I have another year + of contract).
My take is that the extreme heat and high UV content of the light source cause vaporization and deposition of chemicals much like cars get a film on the inside of the windshield.
Thanks for saving my sanity!
Bruce Anderson
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post #29 of 388 Old 09-11-2009, 06:14 PM
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I've a wd-65833 I bought in Sep. 07. I've had the lamp on the "low" setting since I first plugged it in, and it sez I've used 5560 hours of lamp life. Two questions: Approximately how many hours do you estimate I've got left, and any and all suggestions as to where to purchase a lamp from. All comments appreciated...

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post #30 of 388 Old 09-12-2009, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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There seems to be alot of Bruces' here.
Thanks and welcome to the forum.

rightintel; ASAIK, the lamp only has one 'setting'. It does not vary in output unlike some other manufactures (some Samsung and Toshiba models for example). The 'picture' settings might adjust the 'iris' to reduce the amount of light that hits the DMD, but that's it.
Hours vary from a couple thousand to over 9,000. It's a crap shoot on how much you get.
As far as where to get a replacement, I don't know what to tell you since I haven't had to replace the lamp yet (knock on wood) other than I would just get the lamp irself, not the whole assembly.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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