2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 19 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 4Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #541 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 02:18 PM
Newbie
 
leehavens's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillyaj View Post

Great summary of some of the issues....

I have had the same experience with the HDMI Input 3. Frustrating!!!

Also...the delay in the response when changing picture formats is EXTREMELY frustrating. I'm wondering what Cable box you are using??. I'm a Comcast customer using an SA 8300HD DVR. I'm thinking it's related to the HDMI from the cable box to the TV. I played with the settings on the cable box to make it fixed...but still not right. I unerstand the TV needs to swich to the correct 'mode' but it is truely annoying when your on a 1080i channel, you hit the GUIDE button and the TV goes blank for 2-3 seconds . Also changing from Non-1080i to 1080i .

My old wd-65725 had simular issues, but I was able to get around this by putting the cablebox on FIXED video output. One more thing for Mitsubishi to fix with a firmware update....(Hopefully)

Anybody else see a big delay when changing from 1080i/p to 480 or 720?

I am proud owner of 82838. I must say the picture quality is outstanding and is plenty bright in the day even in a room with multiple windows (blinds closed to eliminate glare). I am connected to COX cable using a SA 8300HD DVR. Switching between channels varies between 2 - 5 seconds and what is most annoying is the time delay when you press GUIDE. The screen goes blank (blue), brings up the GUIDE and then goes blank (blue) before displaying the channel. Switching between 1080i to 1080i is faster when you use the LAST button. If you swtich between different speeds or use the GUIDE the response time is to long for my liking. I have had two COX service reps to my house to try and reduce the response time. I had a Mitsubishi WD-65909 before this and had no delay in changing channels or bringing up the GUIDE.

I have been on the phone with Mitsubishi custmer service twice. Same response both times the problem is with the source signal. Did not have this problem with my prior Mitsubishi HD TV.

Not sure what is causing this or how to eliminate the delay. Any ideas?
leehavens is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #542 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 02:57 PM
AVS Special Member
 
colour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Fenton, Mo.
Posts: 1,752
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Only thing I can tell you is to set your cable box to 1080p or 1080i. I have Charter cable and I have QVC stuck between my local HD channels and it's very annoying, it's really the only area I have a slow response, when I'm not paying attention to what channel I'm on and I don't skip the channel quickly. Switching to the guide works fine and so does switching to other SD channels.

This is with my 73737 through HDMI. The time switching between video formats is nothing new and I believe not necessarily a fault of the TV.
colour is offline  
post #543 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 03:14 PM
Advanced Member
 
TViewer2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 514
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I have Directv and have no issues like that, so probably something on box is causing those issues.
TViewer2000 is offline  
post #544 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 03:49 PM
Newbie
 
leehavens's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Cable box is set to 1080i there is no 1080p option with COX. This is suppose to "fix" this issue but I still have the problem.
leehavens is offline  
post #545 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 04:01 PM
Advanced Member
 
destiny 21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 570
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 17
will be getting my 73838 mits thursday i also have the panasonicbt350 onkyo 608 and verizon fios i also bought the mits starter pack.does anyone know easiest way to hook all this up in what order right know i have a sammy 61a750 hooked tio the 608 and bluray to the 608 and then to tv with hdmi works perfect. just want to know how to do it with the mits 3d adapter and emitter. thank you
destiny 21 is offline  
post #546 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 04:43 PM
Member
 
Melonhead11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
After screwing around with my set for a few weekends, I think I've got it where I like it and I thought I'd share. My settings are on a 65738 with all of the extra Mits options off, so mine will differ a bit from Jaseman's. I calibrated using a i1 Display LT rev. C using HCFR software and AVSHD 709 test patterns. I've got 125 hours on my set, and I have noticed the brightness changing a bit over time. I'm sure I'll recheck it all again in a few hundred hours. Where the gray scale calibrated pretty quickly and easily, I did spend quite a bit of time with the primary and secondary color adjustments. With the options you are given in the 738, it's difficult to fine tune. Anyway, here they are:

Picture Mode: ADV
Deepfield Imager: OFF
Super Resolution: OFF
Edge Enhance: ON
Video Noise: OFF
Brightness: 33
Contrast: 37
Color: 39
Tint: 37
Sharpness: 20
Gamma: 2.2
Red High: 1015
Green High: 947
Blue High: 1023
Red Low: 2
Green Low: 5
Blue Low: 3
Blue Only: Off
Red Adjust: 7, 0, 0
Green Adjust: 15, 9, 5
Blue Adjust: 0, 1, 9
Magenta Adjust: 0, 6, 9
Cyan Adjust: 12, 13, 7
Yellow Adjust: 14, 12, 7

Lamp Energy: Standard


I do most of my viewing in a room with very little lighting and I like the results. Try it and see what you think.
Melonhead11 is offline  
post #547 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 05:37 PM
AVS Special Member
 
colour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Fenton, Mo.
Posts: 1,752
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 28
[quote=Melonhead11;19058360] I've got 125 hours on my set, and I have noticed the brightness changing a bit over time. I'm sure I'll recheck it all again in a few hundred hours.

The norm is to wait 300 hours before setting things where you like it, but posting the settings does give a starting point for others.
colour is offline  
post #548 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 05:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
gtgray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melonhead11 View Post

After screwing around with my set for a few weekends, I think I've got it where I like it and I thought I'd share. My settings are on a 65738 with all of the extra Mits options off, so mine will differ a bit from Jaseman's. I calibrated using a i1 Display LT rev. C using HCFR software and AVSHD 709 test patterns. I've got 125 hours on my set, and I have noticed the brightness changing a bit over time. I'm sure I'll recheck it all again in a few hundred hours. Where the gray scale calibrated pretty quickly and easily, I did spend quite a bit of time with the primary and secondary color adjustments. With the options you are given in the 738, it's difficult to fine tune. Anyway, here they are:

Picture Mode: ADV
Deepfield Imager: OFF
Super Resolution: OFF
Edge Enhance: OFF
Video Noise: OFF
Brightness: 31
Contrast: 37
Color: 41
Tint: 38
Sharpness: 0
Gamma: 2.2
Red High: 1023
Green High: 955
Blue High: 1023
Red Low: 1
Green Low: 4
Blue Low: 2
Blue Only: Off
Red Adjust: 6, 0, 0
Green Adjust: 17, 10, 1
Blue Adjust: 0, 1, 8
Magenta Adjust: 0, 4, 10
Cyan Adjust: 12, 13, 7
Yellow Adjust: 16, 11, 8



I do most of my viewing in a room with very little lighting and I like the results. Try it and see what you think.

Yeah, seem quite good except for Magenta, otherwise you nailed it. The Magenta error is fairly big. You should be able to dial that one in more based on the size of the red and blue error. The advance mode is a mixed blessing. It is nice for grayscale but it is tricky to get all the colors to where you want them, especially on gamma luminance. That is why I use a DUO on my 837. The Perfect Color and Perfet Tint together are nice, too bad you loose they nice grayscale controls in AV modes when you choose a preset..

Mits just does not get it. Being able to easilly calibrate one of there sets should be a given for all but the most stripped down model. Even then I disagree with not having a full set of controls standard. LG's Picture Wizard makes other TV set makers look bad when it come to setup software. It is all there and you get what you need and they advice on how to use it right from the interface.

Just another blank signature.
gtgray is online now  
post #549 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 05:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jsmiddleton4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 3,259
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 24
"No this is wired, hardline into the Mits."

If its wired there is no passkey of any kind.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
jsmiddleton4 is offline  
post #550 of 8822 Old 08-16-2010, 08:37 PM
Advanced Member
 
morphinapg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
How good is the scaling on these sets? For example, scaling 480i, 720p, and 1080i signals to 1080p. How good is the deinterlacer? Does it automatically do 3:2 pulldown on film material (and then apply 5:5 pulldown for smooth 120Hz playback [not interpolation])? Does the TV deinterlace the 480i signal to 480p before upscaling to 1080p, or does it simply separate fields, upscale to 1080i, and then deinterlace to 1080p? (which results in a much worse picture)

Unfortunately, my U-verse box doesn't have a 1080p mode, and also a bad deinterlacer (simply separates fields like I said above) and so right now I use my TVs scaling rather than the U-verse box's. It takes some time to switch between modes but provides the best quality.

Also, can you calibrate picture settings per input? On my current TV, different inputs as well as different video modes (RGB Full/Limited, YPbPr, etc) require different calibrations.
morphinapg is offline  
post #551 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 07:32 AM
Advanced Member
 
jaseman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post

How good is the scaling on these sets? For example, scaling 480i, 720p, and 1080i signals to 1080p. How good is the deinterlacer? Does it automatically do 3:2 pulldown on film material (and then apply 5:5 pulldown for smooth 120Hz playback [not interpolation])? Does the TV deinterlace the 480i signal to 480p before upscaling to 1080p, or does it simply separate fields, upscale to 1080i, and then deinterlace to 1080p? (which results in a much worse picture)

Unfortunately, my U-verse box doesn't have a 1080p mode, and also a bad deinterlacer (simply separates fields like I said above) and so right now I use my TVs scaling rather than the U-verse box's. It takes some time to switch between modes but provides the best quality.

Also, can you calibrate picture settings per input? On my current TV, different inputs as well as different video modes (RGB Full/Limited, YPbPr, etc) require different calibrations.

Wow, lot's of questions and few answers! Owning the set does not give us any more information than what is available on the internet. Sorry, but you can read the manual as easily as anyone else...for what it's worth...and try to get the answers you seek.

But as you can see from those of us who do own them...we feel that the picture quality can be calibrated to very high levels. Exactly how the set does it's scaling....????? Who knows!

I have an Oppo BDP-83 and of course blu-ray's look fantastic. Even DVD's look really very good. Hi-Def cable looks fantastic also. Low-Def cable looks basically like what you would expect on any modern set that is 73 - 82 inches....semi-fuzzy crap at best to really-fuzzy crap at it's worst. Nothing I know of can improve on that...at least nothing I have ever personally experienced.

The Oppo sends out 1080p, for blu-ray and DVD. Cable is set at 1080i so even fuzzy-crap channels are "supposedly" sent out at 1080i. I have rotated through all the available settings on the cable box...480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. There is no discernible difference except on the Hi-Def channels when you try to send them at 480i...then everything gets ugly.

I have used my Denon AVR-790 to do the scaling and then I have tried it without doing any scaling...again there is no discernible difference. So I guess the set does a pretty good job of scaling!

Actually, after having these Hi-Def sets on the market for so many years now one would think that they have fairly decent components built in to perform accurate, efficient scaling...especially for sets having such a large screen.

Better to want what you don't have, than to have what you don't want!

jaseman is offline  
post #552 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 08:00 AM
Advanced Member
 
morphinapg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaseman View Post

Wow, lot's of questions and few answers! Owning the set does not give us any more information than what is available on the internet. Sorry, but you can read the manual as easily as anyone else...for what it's worth...and try to get the answers you seek.

But as you can see from those of us who do own them...we feel that the picture quality can be calibrated to very high levels. Exactly how the set does it's scaling....????? Who knows!

I've read the manual and haven't found anything that answers my questions.

For example, I can tell that my current LCD does really good deinterlacing and decent scaling. It's able to differentiate between standard video and film content in an interlanced signal and deinterlace accordingly. It deinterlaces a 480i signal before scaling it to 1080p, rather than separating fields, scaling to 1080i, and then deinterlacing to 1080p. It applies proper 3:2 pulldown to interlaced film sources (such as a prime time drama at 1080i). It deinterlaces 1080i60 to 1080p60 very nicely, almost looking as good as true 1080p. On video sources it doesn't simply display one field at a time, it deinterlaces with motion adaptation, meaning things that are perfectly still will look like true 1080p.

I was hoping there'd be other people on this forum that'd be capable of detecting these minor differences in how deinterlacing and scaling works and tell me if it works good on these sets. I've seen brand new sets be ruined by bad scaling and deinterlacing.
morphinapg is offline  
post #553 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 08:18 AM
Advanced Member
 
jaseman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post

I've read the manual and haven't found anything that answers my questions.

For example, I can tell that my current LCD does really good deinterlacing and decent scaling. It's able to differentiate between standard video and film content in an interlanced signal and deinterlace accordingly. It deinterlaces a 480i signal before scaling it to 1080p, rather than separating fields, scaling to 1080i, and then deinterlacing to 1080p. It applies proper 3:2 pulldown to interlaced film sources (such as a prime time drama at 1080i). It deinterlaces 1080i60 to 1080p60 very nicely, almost looking as good as true 1080p. On video sources it doesn't simply display one field at a time, it deinterlaces with motion adaptation, meaning things that are perfectly still will look like true 1080p.

I was hoping there'd be other people on this forum that'd be capable of detecting these minor differences in how deinterlacing and scaling works and tell me if it works good on these sets. I've seen brand new sets be ruined by bad scaling and deinterlacing.

How exactly do you know "how" your set is doing this without a piece of equipment telling you so, or a detailed manual telling you so? I do not believe this can be determined just by looking at the screen.

I have no doubt that there are TV's out there that are crappier than others. It's the nature of the beast. Try to find one you can play with and see what you think. I'm still waiting for someone to get one of these and post a bad review. Though I did see one semi-bad review where they are having problems with the ballast...or at least that's what they think it is. There's always going to be a lemon or two in the mix. This is also the nature of the beast.

Better to want what you don't have, than to have what you don't want!

jaseman is offline  
post #554 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 08:26 AM
Advanced Member
 
morphinapg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaseman View Post

How exactly do you know "how" your set is doing this without a piece of equipment telling you so, or a detailed manual telling you so? I do not believe this can be determined just by looking at the screen.

I have no doubt that there are TV's out there that are crappier than others. It's the nature of the beast. Try to find one you can play with and see what you think. I'm still waiting for someone to get one of these and post a bad review. Though I did see one semi-bad review where they are having problems with the ballast...or at least that's what they think it is. There's always going to be a lemon or two in the mix. This is also the nature of the beast.

No, these things can easily be seen with your eyes if you know how the technology works. With bad deinterlacing, you'll see flickering, you won't see progressive frames during interlaced film content, jaggies with deinterlacing, etc. You just need to know what to look for. Bad scaling can be detected by the eyes as well.

This is how I can tell that my TV does decent scaling and excellent deinterlacing, while my U-verse box does decent scaling, but horrible deinterlacing. Neither do excellent scaling.
morphinapg is offline  
post #555 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 09:26 AM
Member
 
Melonhead11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Yeah, seem quite good except for Magenta, otherwise you nailed it. The Magenta error is fairly big. You should be able to dial that one in more based on the size of the red and blue error. The advance mode is a mixed blessing. It is nice for grayscale but it is tricky to get all the colors to where you want them, especially on gamma luminance. That is why I use a DUO on my 837. The Perfect Color and Perfet Tint together are nice, too bad you loose they nice grayscale controls in AV modes when you choose a preset..

Mits just does not get it. Being able to easilly calibrate one of there sets should be a given for all but the most stripped down model. Even then I disagree with not having a full set of controls standard. LG's Picture Wizard makes other TV set makers look bad when it come to setup software. It is all there and you get what you need and they advice on how to use it right from the interface.

There was a lot of give and take with the color calibration. So in the end, with the controls you are given, you have to find a happy medium and that's what I left it at. But even with these settings calibrated at 100% saturation, they will stray at 75% (especially green for my set), so I don't think there is a perfect calibration with this set. I'll reevaluate in a few hundred hours.
Melonhead11 is offline  
post #556 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 09:31 AM
Member
 
Melonhead11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 110
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post

Also, can you calibrate picture settings per input? On my current TV, different inputs as well as different video modes (RGB Full/Limited, YPbPr, etc) require different calibrations.

Yes. You can change the calibration settings for each input (at least for the 738).
Melonhead11 is offline  
post #557 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 11:45 AM
Advanced Member
 
shumi_9's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 769
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
For any of you who may be experiencing lag time....this may be caused by having the format on Native default. On your D* remote press the format button for more than two seconds until you see a choice for switching off the Native default...it should help.
shumi_9 is offline  
post #558 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 12:04 PM
Advanced Member
 
morphinapg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melonhead11 View Post

Yes. You can change the calibration settings for each input (at least for the 738).

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by shumi_9 View Post

For any of you who may be experiencing lag time....this may be caused by having the format on Native default. On your D* remote press the format button for more than two seconds until you see a choice for switching off the Native default...it should help.

People use that feature if their box doesn't have 1080p mode, or if it has a bad scaler/deinterlacer, to let the TV do the scaling and giving the best picture. Unfortunately, my U-verse box doesn't have native, and 1080p mode (if it existed on my box) would look bad anyway because of the bad deinterlacer, so I have to manually switch resolutions if I want the channel to be native resolution. Personally I would think it's worth the "lag time" to get the best picture.

-

BTW, I've been wondering. For those of you that have been watching the prices of these sets, what is the likeliness of the 60738 dropping to ~$800 by mid November? I really want this version but it all depends on pricing really.
morphinapg is offline  
post #559 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 02:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
gtgray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melonhead11 View Post

There was a lot of give and take with the color calibration. So in the end, with the controls you are given, you have to find a happy medium and that's what I left it at. But even with these settings calibrated at 100% saturation, they will stray at 75% (especially green for my set), so I don't think there is a perfect calibration with this set. I'll reevaluate in a few hundred hours.

If you have a Spears and Munsil BD Benchmark Blu-Ray you should check for clipping on colors. I find that if you have the set too bright, then you get in the situation where the set is not linear enough over a wide enough range to keep the color dEs low at both 75 and 100 precent. One can make a pretty good argument that having the color accurate at 75% is probably more important than at 100 percent. But if you are not clipping colors and you are pretty much on at 75% you should be pretty close at 100 too.

I guess if one was fussy enough they could adjust so they split the difference betwenn the error at 75% and at 100%. I think the thing that you supposedly want to avoid is having one primary color with a much bigger lminance error than the rest. Calman and ChromaPure give you the total dE and the percentage error on hue, saturation, and brightness (Y). So you might give up some x,y accuracy to get the luminance closer as that is really more important, than getting red for example to the precise right coordinates. Yeah, green can be a real problem because it is not very linear in brightness. Again though if the set is not too bright you have more flexibility with green luminance.

Just another blank signature.
gtgray is online now  
post #560 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 02:35 PM
AVS Special Member
 
gtgray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post

Thanks!



People use that feature if their box doesn't have 1080p mode, or if it has a bad scaler/deinterlacer, to let the TV do the scaling and giving the best picture. Unfortunately, my U-verse box doesn't have native, and 1080p mode (if it existed on my box) would look bad anyway because of the bad deinterlacer, so I have to manually switch resolutions if I want the channel to be native resolution. Personally I would think it's worth the "lag time" to get the best picture.

------

BTW, I've been wondering. For those of you that have been watching the prices of these sets, what is the likeliness of the 60738 dropping to ~$800 by mid November? I really want this version but it all depends on pricing really.

An Achor Bay VP like the DVDO Edge or its more expensive brother the DUO have a feature called PREP where it re-interlaces a source and then properly deinterlaces the content correcting the errors introduced during the previous deinterlacing.. Now DVDO Video Processors can't fix, 480i that has been improperly deinterlaced to 480P and then scaled to 1080i, but for 480P from 480i and 1080P derived from 1080i it can fixed what another component's deinterlacer screwed up. I don't have an opinion on the scaling and deinterlacing in the recent Mits DLPs because I have never sent them a signal that was not either native 1080P, or was 1080P out of device with first rate scaling and deinterlacing.

BTW, native 480i broadcast TV, output from a Tivo HD going through my DUO to the 82837 can look at absolutely amazing, considering the screen size.

Just another blank signature.
gtgray is online now  
post #561 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 02:53 PM
Advanced Member
 
morphinapg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

An Achor Bay VP like the DVDO Edge or its more expensive brother the DUO have a feature called PREP where it re-interlaces a source and then properly deinterlaces the content correcting the errors introduced during the previous deinterlacing.. Now DVDO Video Processors can't fix, 480i that has been improperly deinterlaced to 480P and then scaled to 1080i, but for 480P from 480i and 1080P derived from 1080i it can fixed what another component's deinterlacer screwed up. I don't have an opinion on the scaling and deinterlacing in the recent Mits DLPs because I have never sent them a signal that was not either native 1080P, or was 1080P out of device with first rate scaling and deinterlacing.

Yeah, that wouldn't be very helpful to me unless my U-verse box had a 1080p mode, and even then, it would probably still have problems with 480i->1080p content. Although i suppose a scaler like that would be helpful because I can only have 1:1 pixel mapping with progressive signals, because for some reason the 1:1 mode doesn't deinterlace properly, giving the "flickery" effect.

The way my U-verse box deinterlaces is like this: It takes the 480i image, separates them into two 240p images, scales those 240p images to 540p images, and then reinterlaces them to 1080i. This is wrong and causes bad jaggies and a fuzzier image. If it had a 1080p mode, it would likely upscale each 240p image to 1080p at 60Hz, causing a very flickery image.

It's best to adaptively deinterlace the 480i image first, only deinterlacing the pixels that have moved since the last frame, and then upscaling that to 1080p. My TV does this with a 480i signal. I was wondering if these models did the same. Also, if the TV detects film source material, it shouldn't deinterlace, it should decomb, resulting in a 24Hz stream, which then it should apply 5:5 pulldown to 120Hz.

Does anyone here who owns these TVs know how the deinterlacer works, and how good the scaler is?
morphinapg is offline  
post #562 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 06:15 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jsmiddleton4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 3,259
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 24
"No, these things can easily be seen with your eyes if you know how the technology works."

I think your best bet is to take a list of all your questions, go to a store that has one on display, you can test and play and find out. Then come back here and share your research.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
jsmiddleton4 is offline  
post #563 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 07:14 PM
Advanced Member
 
morphinapg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 604
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

"No, these things can easily be seen with your eyes if you know how the technology works."

I think your best bet is to take a list of all your questions, go to a store that has one on display, you can test and play and find out. Then come back here and share your research.

Yeah I'm planning on doing that, but I'd still be quite limited with what I could do there. Like, I'm not going to be able to use my own sources on various inputs, and other things I'd need to do to answer my questions. That's why I hoped someone would own these and be as technologically knowledgeable to answer my questions here.
morphinapg is offline  
post #564 of 8822 Old 08-17-2010, 07:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jsmiddleton4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 3,259
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 54 Post(s)
Liked: 24
The place by me lets me play pretty much at will. Of course I've been buying stuff there for years and they've gotten plenty of money out of me.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
jsmiddleton4 is offline  
post #565 of 8822 Old 08-18-2010, 03:57 AM
AVS Special Member
 
buzzard767's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Naples, FL & Wausau, WI
Posts: 3,594
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 52 Post(s)
Liked: 337
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

If you have a Spears and Munsil BD Benchmark Blu-Ray you should check for clipping on colors.

Excellent point. So many of these newer displays allow full contrast without clipping white but colors can be a different story.

Buzz

Buzz
THX Certified Video Calibrator

 

buzzard767 is online now  
post #566 of 8822 Old 08-18-2010, 11:38 AM
Member
 
DLopatin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am considering getting the Mitsubishi WD-82838 or the Mitsubishi Laservue L75-A91. I would prefer the larger size of the WD-82838 (plus it is less expensive), but I am concerned about the overall brightness, especially when playing 3D content.

Can anyone comment on the acceptable viewing angle of the WD-82838? I do have a couple of seating positions which are approximately 45 degrees off-center.

Also, can someone comment on the brightness while playing 3D material?

By the way, I have pretty good control of the light in the room (12 x 12, no windows, one door).

Thank you!
DLopatin is offline  
post #567 of 8822 Old 08-18-2010, 11:45 AM
Senior Member
 
PRO710HD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NW Chicago Burbs
Posts: 376
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
DLopatin;

I'm in the same bucket as you considering the same 2 sets! I'd love to go with the 82838 because of the price etc. but I haven't yet seen the 75" Laservue.

Would love to hear opinions regarding these 2 sets..
PRO710HD is offline  
post #568 of 8822 Old 08-18-2010, 12:10 PM
AVS Special Member
 
dreaux's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 1,282
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

DLopatin;

I'm in the same bucket as you considering the same 2 sets! I'd love to go with the 82838 because of the price etc. but I haven't yet seen the 75" Laservue.

Would love to hear opinions regarding these 2 sets..

You may want to check out the Laservue thread,
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1108686
I understand that they are quite bright. I have the 82838 and I am quite pleased with the brightness. I had the 82837 and that was not as bright. At least that has been my experience.
dreaux is offline  
post #569 of 8822 Old 08-18-2010, 12:21 PM
Member
 
Madmaxz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just put a down payment on a 73738 but keep thinking about just getting the 82738 / 82838 im question is does the dark detailer and perfect tint/color only on the 838 series really make a difference the cost is only $400 more over the 738.
Madmaxz is offline  
post #570 of 8822 Old 08-18-2010, 01:41 PM
Advanced Member
 
jaseman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLopatin View Post

Can anyone comment on the acceptable viewing angle of the WD-82838? I do have a couple of seating positions which are approximately 45 degrees off-center.

Thank you!

Viewing on any DLP is not a problem from side-to-side. The issue comes on how high or low you are seated. On a set as large as the 82" you need to make sure your stand is not too high. If it is you will see a dimming of the image towards the top of the screen if you are sitting too close. If you like to lay on the floor to watch TV you do not want a DLP unless you are going to be 20 feet back or something ridiculous. You need to sit as close to the middle of the screen as possible on a vertical measure. Again, horizontal viewing is not a problem...up to a point of course.

Better to want what you don't have, than to have what you don't want!

jaseman is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off