2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 08:57 AM
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Just got a 65638 two days ago, this is my first DLP, and first TV bigger than 32".. I like the default natural setting the best of the four, my g/f likes the bright setting, I'd like to find a happy medium but I'm not sure the best way to do it, should I crank up the brightness on natural, or tone it down on "bright", and/or should I be doing something else that I don't know with the other options(contrast/tint/temp/etc)..

Also, is there anything else I should do/know that a first time Mitsi DLP owner wouldn't know about?

Thanks in advance, sorry for sounding like an idiot..
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post #722 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 11:00 AM
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I'm seriously looking at the 82838 ... have to do some measurements and make sure it will fit down into my basement.

However, I am having difficulty findind a stand. Yes, I searched the 2009 version threads and there is no concensus. Most seem to use stands made for the 73" version. I saw reference to one that looked like it would be great HERE but it seems to be sold out everywhere.

Anyone found any good options/recs for the 82" versions?

Thanks!
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post #723 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 11:48 AM
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I had a pretty hard time finding one for the 73838 that wasn't a grand. Most say up to 65". I believe you'll want something over 75" long for the 82 but I saw one that just fit on the a 73" stand.

tvstands.com has a lot you can look at.
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post #724 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltDoc View Post

I'm seriously looking at the 82838 ... have to do some measurements and make sure it will fit down into my basement.

However, I am having difficulty findind a stand. Yes, I searched the 2009 version threads and there is no concensus. Most seem to use stands made for the 73" version. I saw reference to one that looked like it would be great HERE but it seems to be sold out everywhere.

Anyone found any good options/recs for the 82" versions?

Thanks!

http://powersellernyc.com/product/vi...and-26104.html
http://dealcost.com/product/view/Pin...TV-Stand-29927
or maybe
http://www.pinnacledesign.net/manuals/contact.pdf
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post #725 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 12:21 PM
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The issue with stands is primarily about whether you are"bugged" by overhang. In the 2009 thread some people are practically religious about having 0 overhang. Personally I don't get that at all. I have my 82" on a 65" wide stand, and that means roughly there is a couple inches overhang on each side.

What people who have not spent time in front of a set that big don't realize it that the a total of 6 inches overhang (both sides added) is really a very small percentage of the set width and visually does not grab they eye unless your religious view makes 0 overhang a biblical commandment... otherwise it is pretty minor. I know I sure didn't let it effect my decision to buy an 82" set. What is more important with regard to a stand on the 82" sets is to be sure not to buy too tall a stand.

Just another blank signature.
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post #726 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 01:08 PM
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Lol, I can't afford a new stand right now, so the 60" will probably stick way out over the edges of the stand I have right now. As long as the stand can support the weight (and it can) I don't mind.

EDIT: I just measured it: It will stick approximately a foot off each side. Like I said, I can't afford a new stand right now. If I could I would. The base itself will only stick about 3 inches off each side.
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post #727 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 04:31 PM
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Geometry settings tweaked. Info works as noted above. Then enter to store data. However the 4:3 adjustments are not the same as th 2009 model, at least seems to me that is the case. Hitting Video cycles to what appear to be 4:3 adjustments as well as another pin cushion kind of adjustment. Will be glad to see 2010 model service manual to see how it works.

Dialed in basic geometry though. Keeps looking better and better....

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post #728 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltDoc View Post

I'm seriously looking at the 82838 ... have to do some measurements and make sure it will fit down into my basement.

However, I am having difficulty findind a stand. Yes, I searched the 2009 version threads and there is no concensus. Most seem to use stands made for the 73" version. I saw reference to one that looked like it would be great HERE but it seems to be sold out everywhere.

Anyone found any good options/recs for the 82" versions?

Thanks!

Just make sure the stand is not too high. 16"- 18" is about right. I made a custom stand that is 73" wide by 18" high and the height is perfect. Anything much higher and you could run into vertical viewing issues.

Width is not that important as the base stand of the 82 is only 37", as long as it will support the weight (about 150 lbs).
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post #729 of 8811 Old 08-27-2010, 05:41 PM
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I just went into my local store to get another look at the 638, and unfortunately, similar to amazon (and other sites), the price had gone up again (though it's $50 cheaper at my store). Hoping the price goes back down before I plan to buy it (November, maybe December), but now I'm kind of thinking I should have put it on layaway. Who knows, maybe it'll jump back down to $800 or even lower (I'm hoping the 738 goes down near that range, I'd definitely prefer that model if I could afford it). Unfortunately they didn't have the 3d hooked up on this set so I couldn't try that out, but I did get a glimpse at 3d on a smaller led, and it looked fantastic. According to people here the 3d effect is even better on these sets, so I can't wait to check that out.
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post #730 of 8811 Old 08-28-2010, 07:01 AM
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Have the new 73 738 and have same input issues as harmony's commands r wrong. But also want to do this; will harmony add these commands directly or any suggestions?
1) I want a "watch tv day" activity with video brightness "bright" and a "watch tv night" with video brightness "natural".
2) I want the same two activities in 3d mode. For instance "watch 3d tv day" which will turn tv to 3d mode too. Right now i have to manually hit menu then toggle over 5 spots to 3d then down two to turn it on then hit exit then turn to the channel on directv. Can u program a string of commands?
3) has anyone figured out if they have the 3d adaptor in their database? I can't find it but would like to turn it off when not in use and include it in my harmony acitvities. i have two adaptors one on directv and one on PS3. Only issue is tv only has one 3d emitter input so have to manually switch one Din cable. I can't find a 3 pin din cable splitter or switch; anyone else dealing with this issue? I've found other ones at the web cable vendors but no 3 pin splitters.

Ps for people who have asked about a stand I have standout designs and it is 70" wide and 22" tall and it is great quality that matches a cherry coffee table perfectly. And love the built in fans that turn on based on temperature as both my apple tv and ps3 can get hot.
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post #731 of 8811 Old 08-28-2010, 07:33 AM
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Ted,

Find the instructions on how to set the remote into direct mode, whatever its called, and teach the Harmony the right commands for the various inputs. Its in this thread and in the Harmony Remote thread. Why Logitech hasn't fixed it is difficult to explain.

You'll have to setup different activities. You'll have to experiement and see if there is a discrete code for the brightness, etc. Otherwise its sequence time.

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post #732 of 8811 Old 08-28-2010, 08:09 AM
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Thanks JS! I will experiment and post results for anyone else in case they want to leverage (may b a few days as leaving town today and then traveling on biz next week). Will let interested people know...
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post #733 of 8811 Old 08-28-2010, 03:47 PM
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I emailed mitsubishi wondering whether the update to native 3d instead of using the box would still produce a checkerboard 3d or actually deliver 1080p 3d like LCD/LED 3dtvs, and this is all I got:

Quote:


Mitsubishi is not currently ready to release any details concerning any future updates. Details about any changes in the 3D status of any of our products will be posted on our web site when Mitsubishi is ready to provide these details.


Regards


MDEA

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post #734 of 8811 Old 08-28-2010, 04:45 PM
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From the manual:

To display 3D gaming or 3D cinema content, your
Mitsubishi TV requires:
A compatible 3D source device outputting a 3D
signal in one of these formats:
-- Checkerboard format, 1080p, 60-Hz; (lower
resolutions may be supported but will not fill the
screen)
-- Side-by-Side format, 1080p, 24/30/60 Hz; 720p,
60 Hz
Active-shutter 3D glasses, DLP link type or IR
emitter type with matching emitter
Please visit our website at www.mitsubishi-tv.com for information
about future TV software updates that will broaden
3D signal compatibility.


Notice Concerning Format Compatibility
Mitsubishi 3DTVs (738 and 838 series) currently support
the side-by-side 3D signal format. For support of other 3D
formats, such as top-bottom and frame packing (3D Blu
Ray standard), Mitsubishi 3DTVs will require the use of a 3D
source device that outputs the 3D checkerboard format or
a 3D source device coupled with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter.
In all cases an emitter and matching 3D active shutter
glasses or DLP Link active shutter glasses are required in
order to view 3D content.

Buzz
THX Certified Video Calibrator

 

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post #735 of 8811 Old 08-28-2010, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

From the manual:

To display 3D gaming or 3D cinema content, your
Mitsubishi TV requires:
A compatible 3D source device outputting a 3D
signal in one of these formats:
-- Checkerboard format, 1080p, 60-Hz; (lower
resolutions may be supported but will not fill the
screen)
-- Side-by-Side format, 1080p, 24/30/60 Hz; 720p,
60 Hz
Active-shutter 3D glasses, DLP link type or IR
emitter type with matching emitter
Please visit our website at www.mitsubishi-tv.com for information
about future TV software updates that will broaden
3D signal compatibility.


Notice Concerning Format Compatibility
Mitsubishi 3DTVs (738 and 838 series) currently support
the side-by-side 3D signal format. For support of other 3D
formats, such as top-bottom and frame packing (3D Blu
Ray standard), Mitsubishi 3DTVs will require the use of a 3D
source device that outputs the 3D checkerboard format or
a 3D source device coupled with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter.
In all cases an emitter and matching 3D active shutter
glasses or DLP Link active shutter glasses are required in
order to view 3D content.

Yes I realize this, but nobody here was able to answer my question on whether the firmware update, that's supposed to natively allow frame-packing will display them at full 1080p or convert those frame packed signals back to checkerboard format, which would mean there would be no visible difference in quality between the internal 3d processor and the 3dc1000.
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post #736 of 8811 Old 08-29-2010, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post

Yes I realize this, but nobody here was able to answer my question on whether the firmware update, that's supposed to natively allow frame-packing will display them at full 1080p or convert those frame packed signals back to checkerboard format, which would mean there would be no visible difference in quality between the internal 3d processor and the 3dc1000.

The DLP chip has a native resolution of 960X1080 and uses "wobulation" to achieve 1920X1080 pictures. The 3D checkerboard format is a variation of the wobulation processing and is the only method for current DLP set to display 3D content and is half horizontal resolution. The firmware update will only allow decoding of additional 3D input formats and will be converted to checkerboard format for displaying on the DLP set. The DLP set is NOT capable of displaying full resolution 1920X1080 pictures to each eye in 3D mode. That is my understanding of how 3D works in the DLP rear projection world.

Mike T
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post #737 of 8811 Old 08-29-2010, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtallent View Post

The DLP chip has a native resolution of 960X1080 and uses "wobulation" to achieve 1920X1080 pictures. The 3D checkerboard format is a variation of the wobulation processing and is the only method for current DLP set to display 3D content and is half horizontal resolution. The firmware update will only allow decoding of additional 3D input formats and will be converted to checkerboard format for displaying on the DLP set. The DLP set is NOT capable of displaying full resolution 1920X1080 pictures to each eye in 3D mode. That is my understanding of how 3D works in the DLP rear projection world.

Mike T

Interesting, but the checkerboard 3d actually produces an image approximately 1358x764 (one half of the pixels in 1080p). How does it interpret this image? Does it simply scale that to 960x1080, or does it first interpolate the missing pixels from the checkerboard pattern, and then scale to 960x1080? (which would produce the better quality)

Depending on how they do their processing, frame packed signals could still provide slightly better quality (mainly in vertical resolution, which is more important than horizontal resolution) but since the pixel count would be nearly identical, whatever quality increase there might be wouldn't be huge. So for me the only advantage of the 738 over the 638 right now is the advanced picture calibration, which I can do without if I need to (Brightness/contrast/color/tint is fine for me).

The processing method of the internal 3dtv signal by the 738 was a major factor in which set I would choose. Since the update wouldn't improve quality dramatically, I don't think the set is worth the extra amount over the 638. However, if it decreases in price enough within the next 3 months or so, I may reconsider.
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post #738 of 8811 Old 08-29-2010, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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You mean the 3DA-1 adapter. My guess is that the firmware upgrade (which may never come) would add the top/bottom, frame packing modes to the 3D menu and would internally convert them to a checkerboard output based on the selection by the user.

Don't hold your breath though, it may not come for year(s). They'll want to sell as many 3DA-1's as possible and at $100, who's not going to pay that for your $1K-$3K set to get 3DBD compatability?
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post #739 of 8811 Old 08-29-2010, 07:25 PM
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I have a 2007 73833 diamond that has split screen. I have looked here for 45 minutes. Do any of the 2010's have side by side or picture in picture like my 73833 has? I use it all the time. Thanks for the answer!
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post #740 of 8811 Old 08-29-2010, 09:41 PM
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Thanks! Now just to get it by the "committee" and I'll be set....
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post #741 of 8811 Old 08-29-2010, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stangflyer View Post

I have a 2007 73833 diamond that has split screen. I have looked here for 45 minutes. Do any of the 2010's have side by side or picture in picture like my 73833 has? I use it all the time. Thanks for the answer!

I have the 65838, and I do not believe it does. I previously had a 62825 that also had the PIP/split screen and it looks like this one does not.
If I recall, didn't you have to have 2 seperate source signals ? As in, you could watch tv and a dvd, but not 2 tv programs at the same time. Or maybe that was an issue with my cable company at the time ? I could never get mine (PIP) to work properly anyway. Then again, I had MANY issues with that tv.
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post #742 of 8811 Old 08-29-2010, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melonhead11 View Post

http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs...72010072918593


Panasonic is coming out with the BDT100 sometime this month that might be checkerboard and a more economical Blu Ray compared to the BDT300 & 350. You might want to consider that.



Ok, its out, but I don't see anything listed about the different kinds of 3D that it produces on their webpage. Any ideas ?
Also, can you tell what the difference is between this bdt100 for $250 vs the bdt300 for $400 ?
Seems like a huge price difference, but the only thing I see is the audio output is 2 channel vs. 7.1 channel, wireless vs. not wireless, and 1 hdmi out vs 2 hdmi outs.
I really don't care about the wireless thing, I won't be using it for internet. So, for what I need:

1. what is 2 channel as opposed to 7.1 channel ? what is disadvantage ?
2. why would I need 2 HDMI outputs ? Don't you only need to send one signal to the tv ?
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post #743 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 12:39 AM
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I just thought of something. After hearing about the "wobulation" these sets use to achieve the full 1080p resolution (btw, this just seems like a fancy way of saying vertical interlacing to me) I was wondering how 24hz content is played back. Is it played back at 5:5? Because wouldn't that mean many of the frames would only be half frames due to the wobulation? Or does it simply do 3:2 playback at 60hz? Or is the wobulation done at 240hz, resulting in a true 1920x1080x120hz image?

I'm asking this because 120Hz 5:5 playback was a big factor in what TV I was going to pick.

If it does 5:5 pulldown with 24hz sources, and wobbles the 960x1080 image at 120hz, that would mean every other transition between frames would cause a slight loss of quality due to the two frames overlapping each other during wobulation. It would still look better than a standard 60hz screen, and would still be judder free, but there would be slight frame blending between every other (24hz) frame.

Here's a diagram if you didn't understand what I meant:

Frames 1,2,4,5,6,7, and 9 are full 1080p, but frames 3 and 8 are half frames composed of the previous and next 24hz frames. While these half-frame-wobbles are displayed at different points in time, they are only half resolution at that point. And so, while every source frame will be displayed at full 1080p, 20% of the stream will be half resolution.

Am I correct in this?

EDIT: While frames 3 and 8 are composed of 2 half resolution wobbles, only the second half would appear half resolution due to the repeating nature of the frames. That means, while 20% of the stream is technically half-resolution, only 10% of it would be potentially noticeable.
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post #744 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 02:27 AM
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Hello

I have a SAMSUNG HL-T6176S but my mom complains the TV is 'dark'. This is a 4 year old DLP.

The bulb replacement costs $99, but I was thinking buying a new TV so I can play Batman Arkham Asylum with PhysX and full 3D vision by Nvidia.

Now, I already have a nice computer to play games, now I want the 3D TV. I will buy it in the next upcoming months, probably before Xmas.

Anyway, here are my questions?

1) is it true that Mitsubishi 838 models are brighter? the new 838 series (according to the guy from Fry's) have a 180 watt bulb, and makes them almost as bright as LCDs and Plasmas

2) What is the main difference (in terms of brightness, image quality) between the 838 and 738 model?

3) How is 3D gaming with this TV? I hope someone with Nvidia 3D vision can respond here.

I want to buy a 60" or a 65"

Thanks in advance, I appreciate your responses
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post #745 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 02:59 AM
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Ok guys

I would like to know if the Mitsubishi WD-65737 is a good buy for playing 3D games with 3D Vision by Nvidia

I currently have a SAMSUNG HL-T6176S but the light bulb is 4 years old, a new bulb costs $100. That TV is not mine, is from a friend that moved to a smaller apartment.

The 737 has a 180 watt bulb right?
Is that a bright DLP?

My mom complains about the 61" SAMSUNG HL-T6176S because she says it's too dark

I've explained her that the issue is that the TV is old
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post #746 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rxpert2 View Post

Ok, its out, but I don't see anything listed about the different kinds of 3D that it produces on their webpage. Any ideas ?
Also, can you tell what the difference is between this bdt100 for $250 vs the bdt300 for $400 ?
Seems like a huge price difference, but the only thing I see is the audio output is 2 channel vs. 7.1 channel, wireless vs. not wireless, and 1 hdmi out vs 2 hdmi outs.
I really don't care about the wireless thing, I won't be using it for internet. So, for what I need:

1. what is 2 channel as opposed to 7.1 channel ? what is disadvantage ?
2. why would I need 2 HDMI outputs ? Don't you only need to send one signal to the tv ?

I think you stated the big differences between the two. Second HDMI and 7.1 out are for legacy AV recievers. If you are running an HDMI 1.4 AV receiver and don't care about wireless, then this model is geared more for you. Here's a recent review:
http://www.techradar.com/news/home-c...-review-708384

I'm still waiting to hear whether it's supports checkerboard format.
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post #747 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 09:52 AM
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Finally purchased the Starter Kit and hooked it to D*TV over the weekend. Amazing results. Very happy with the picture quality. Highly recommended.
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post #748 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rafarataneneces View Post

Ok guys

I would like to know if the Mitsubishi WD-65737 is a good buy for playing 3D games with 3D Vision by Nvidia

I currently have a SAMSUNG HL-T6176S but the light bulb is 4 years old, a new bulb costs $100. That TV is not mine, is from a friend that moved to a smaller apartment.

The 737 has a 180 watt bulb right?
Is that a bright DLP?

My mom complains about the 61" SAMSUNG HL-T6176S because she says it's too dark

I've explained her that the issue is that the TV is old

Get her a new bulb.
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post #749 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 01:26 PM
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I am going too buy Mitsubishi 82" DLP 738 series and wanted too know where do I go too have my TV set right? I don't trust a 15 year old kid at Bestbuy too set it. What are the pro's called that do this? If it cost a $100.00 any hour I don't care.
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post #750 of 8811 Old 08-30-2010, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamespblues View Post

I am going too buy Mitsubishi 82" DLP 738 series and wanted too know where do I go too have my TV set right? I don't trust a 15 year old kid at Bestbuy too set it. What are the pro's called that do this? If it cost a $100.00 any hour I don't care.

If you are referring to calibration and you don't want to do it yourself, you can check out this thread for someone in your area:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586330
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