2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 256 - AVS Forum
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post #7651 of 8809 Old 08-04-2011, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Man, that's something else. U sure it's not open box?

I didn't read through all the comments so im not sure but i believe they are new in box . Even if it is open box worse case scenario you need a new bulb for $100, still a great deal.
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post #7652 of 8809 Old 08-04-2011, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bcterp View Post
Just an FYI for anyone interested in an emitter, you no longer need to buy the 3D kit. Xpand is now making the Mitsubishi 3D glasses. They look to be a rebranded version of the x103's. A mitsubishi emitter is also included.

http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-3DG...2402219&sr=8-1
Man that is awesome, I've been looking on ebay for the emitter since I bought the TV.
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post #7653 of 8809 Old 08-04-2011, 11:11 AM
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Hey all, I've currently been happy with my 51" Hitachi rear projection monolith, but the board on it is going out and I'm looking to upgrade.

So far I've read about 'white and black spots' on the screen, poor lamp life, and mitsubishi reliability being subpar.

So....Why shouldn't I buy a plasma over the mitsu DLP?

My setup currently is PS3/XBox/Sat box routed through my Onkyo which is then connected to the TV via a single HDMI cord.
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post #7654 of 8809 Old 08-04-2011, 07:54 PM
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Hi. Does anyone know if the issue of not being able to manually input an IP address has been fixed with 12.08? My LAN setup doesn't allow me to use DHCP on the network I use for my A/V gear. I use smoothwall and the Orange zone doesn't do DHCP. Thanks
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post #7655 of 8809 Old 08-04-2011, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silly_me View Post

Hey all, I've currently been happy with my 51" Hitachi rear projection monolith, but the board on it is going out and I'm looking to upgrade.

So far I've read about 'white and black spots' on the screen, poor lamp life, and mitsubishi reliability being subpar.

So....Why shouldn't I buy a plasma over the mitsu DLP?

My setup currently is PS3/XBox/Sat box routed through my Onkyo which is then connected to the TV via a single HDMI cord.

Get yourself the biggest Mitsubishi 738 you can afford and you'll see why its the way togo I replaced an Pioneer Elite 64 inch Pro700hd and cant believe the picture on my 73738 Love it.
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post #7656 of 8809 Old 08-05-2011, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silly_me View Post

Hey all, I've currently been happy with my 51" Hitachi rear projection monolith, but the board on it is going out and I'm looking to upgrade.

So far I've read about 'white and black spots' on the screen, poor lamp life, and mitsubishi reliability being subpar.

So....Why shouldn't I buy a plasma over the mitsu DLP?

My setup currently is PS3/XBox/Sat box routed through my Onkyo which is then connected to the TV via a single HDMI cord.

I'd say it depends on your own home theater configuration and your planned usage. I use my Mitsubishi for a lot more than TV. It is often displaying Pandora or other online screens that sit there idle for a long time. I don't care what anybody says. Plasmas still have the risk of burn-in. I've seen it, even with recent models. I also have an 18" deep built-in theater cabinet that fits the DLP perfectly, so you can't see how deep it is. People who visit my home are amazed at the beauty of the TV and are surprised when I tell them it's not a plasma or LED. I've only owned it for 9 months, so maybe it's too early for me to judge on reliability, but if all I have to do is replace the bulb every 2-3 years, I'll be a very happy camper.
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post #7657 of 8809 Old 08-05-2011, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by quakerwildcat View Post

if all I have to do is replace the bulb every 2-3 years, I'll be a very happy camper.

That's what I'm thinking, but wanted to know from the masses here on the long term survive-ability of these units.

Size is not an issue, so I don't need a plasma/lcd/led for the simple fact that they are smaller physically, what I'm after if something I can play movies, games, tv on and that will last a long long time without me having to replace the entire unit (so long as the bulb replacement is DiY I don't care about a few hundred bucks every other year).

Also, aside from internet ability, are there any differences between the 738 & 638 models? thanks again!
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post #7658 of 8809 Old 08-05-2011, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silly_me View Post

That's what I'm thinking, but wanted to know from the masses here on the long term survive-ability of these units.

Size is not an issue, so I don't need a plasma/lcd/led for the simple fact that they are smaller physically, what I'm after if something I can play movies, games, tv on and that will last a long long time without me having to replace the entire unit (so long as the bulb replacement is DiY I don't care about a few hundred bucks every other year).

Also, aside from internet ability, are there any differences between the 738 & 638 models? thanks again!

638 does not have any of the advanced picture calibration settings, it's upconverting ability is not as good (if all you send it is 1080 then no problem), and requires the external 3D adapter. I'm pretty sure that's all correct.
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post #7659 of 8809 Old 08-05-2011, 09:41 AM
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Thanks! What about the 738 and 838?
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post #7660 of 8809 Old 08-05-2011, 12:11 PM
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Hello,

I am just here with an F.Y.I., a friend of mine owns the 82738 and he has had huge issues with the 3D DLP link. I am uncertain what glasses he got but they were a package deal with the TV, glasses and stand. He was unable to get 3D out of the TV so he called Mits. He was given the latest firmware but to no avail. He started to really put the screws to them and finally said fix it or I want a full refund. They sent out a rep and he found out that one must sit 6 feet away in order for the DLP linked glasses to work. Of course this gentleman has some money thus his living room is plenty large enough and the seating is many feet further away than 6 feet. He then proceeded to buy the adapter and circumvent the DLP all together by using the IR settings. This fixed the problem but after he spent several hundred more dollars. Again I do not know if this was the glasses but they were designed for DLP link or else they would not have worked at all. If someone has a better work around they may want to address this if it has not been already, good luck and happy configuring.

Not an Owner but still concerned,

John M.
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post #7661 of 8809 Old 08-06-2011, 08:04 AM
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Has anyone gotten the Center speaker option to work correctly with their amplifier. A few months ago i tried it ( as did a few others i think) and it was impossible to adjust volume properly to use the 838 speakers. I have a separate center speaker now but it sits low and I would like to use the 838 if possible.
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post #7662 of 8809 Old 08-06-2011, 08:34 AM
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Anyone know if there's much of a difference between the 738 and 740 series models?

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post #7663 of 8809 Old 08-06-2011, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmaccool View Post

Hello,

I am just here with an F.Y.I., a friend of mine owns the 82738 and he has had huge issues with the 3D DLP link.
***
They sent out a rep and he found out that one must sit 6 feet away in order for the DLP linked glasses to work.
***
Of course this gentleman has some money thus his living room is plenty large enough and the seating is many feet further away than 6 feet. He then proceeded to buy the adapter and circumvent the DLP all together by using the IR settings. This fixed the problem but after he spent several hundred more dollars.

There is nothing inherent with DLP Link that prevents it from working beyond 6 feet. While watching my 73738, my eyes are 11 ft away. My Ultraclear DLP glasses work fine in a dark room. In short, the service technician is simply wrong.

However, DLP Link glasses are affected by ambient light much more than IR. As ambient light increases, the maximum distance decreases to a point where the DLP glasses do not work unless your within a foot. Some DLP Link glasses are impacted by ambient light less than others. There are also tweaks that can be applied to DLP Link glasses to reduce their susceptibility (by covering a large portion of the receiver lens). For those with bright rooms with plenty of windows (& less than perfect lighting control that permits them to darken a room during the daytime), IR is the superior option if the viewer intends to watch 3d during the day.

I hope this sheds some light on your concerns.
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post #7664 of 8809 Old 08-06-2011, 11:39 AM
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Has anyone gotten these 3d glasses to work with the 73 inch mitsu?

Ultimate3DHeaven Ultra-Clear Samsung compatible 3D

http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate3DHeav...pr_product_top
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post #7665 of 8809 Old 08-06-2011, 01:40 PM
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3D GLASSES NEW CHOICE - WILL THESE WORK WELL?

Hi, I have the 73838 and I just found these on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2K7RN1DSQCI9O

Can anyone tell me if these are the best choice?

Thanks!!
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post #7666 of 8809 Old 08-08-2011, 06:14 AM
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Need some help guys with my Harmony One and 82738. I got everything set up and working via learning commands. What i have not solved is changing channels from basic cable. There is no set-top box, just coax right into the tv. Changing channels is painfully slow and whats worse, it skips channels going either forward or backward. Anyone have any idea how to correct this?
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post #7667 of 8809 Old 08-08-2011, 07:53 AM
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Along the same lines as ugabuga, I would love to know how some of you with the Harmony One compensate for the long delay in the Mits xx738 powering up. My 82738 takes close to 15 seconds before an input code will work.

What's the best way to remedy that?

Peace,

DM
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post #7668 of 8809 Old 08-08-2011, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavoM View Post

Along the same lines as ugabuga, I would love to know how some of you with the Harmony One compensate for the long delay in the Mits xx738 powering up. My 82738 takes close to 15 seconds before an input code will work.

What's the best way to remedy that?

Peace,

DM

I had to call the Harmony tech support people and have them add a 10 or 15 second delay on sending out the commands because of the long time the DLP's take to come on. You might be able to do it right in the software but I've never tried.

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post #7669 of 8809 Old 08-08-2011, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavoM View Post

Along the same lines as ugabuga, I would love to know how some of you with the Harmony One compensate for the long delay in the Mits xx738 powering up. My 82738 takes close to 15 seconds before an input code will work.

What's the best way to remedy that?

Peace,

DM

The setting you need to adjust is the Power On Delay, which is for how long AFTER the TV ON command is sent before the remote can send any other command(s).

In the Harmony software, go to devices, TV, options, adjust the delays (speed settings), set Power On Delay to 15000 ms (note 1000 ms = 1 second), and you are done. You can then play with the delay setting to get it to the absolute minimum that will work.
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post #7670 of 8809 Old 08-08-2011, 05:26 PM
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Thank you all. I'll give it a shot.

Peace,

DM
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post #7671 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 05:56 AM
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15000 ms didn't work. Gonna bump it up and try again.

Peace,

DM
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post #7672 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by girdnerg View Post

The setting you need to adjust is the Power On Delay, which is for how long AFTER the TV ON command is sent before the remote can send any other command(s).

In the Harmony software, go to devices, TV, options, adjust the delays (speed settings), set Power On Delay to 15000 ms (note 1000 ms = 1 second), and you are done. You can then play with the delay setting to get it to the absolute minimum that will work.

I can testify that girdnerg's solution works flawlessly. The beauty of this method is that it doesn't delay any other inputs once the initial TV power-on sequence is done. You can switch to other components or activities without waiting.

BTW, my Harmony is set to delay 20,000 ms at power-up. That worked best for me with my 73738.

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post #7673 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 08:30 AM
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I dont think it has been posted in this thread, but there is a firmware update for the WD-73C10 out now from Mitsubishi that i am pretty sure wasnt available when I picked my TV up in April.

http://support.mitsubishi-tv.com/documents/WD-73C10

Not sure what it does, or what it fixes, but I was able to successfully flash it last night.
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post #7674 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danshane View Post

I can testify that girdnerg's solution works flawlessly. The beauty of this method is that it doesn't delay any other inputs once the initial TV power-on sequence is done. You can switch to other components or activities without waiting.

BTW, my Harmony is set to delay 20,000 ms at power-up. That worked best for me with my 73738.

Thanks guys! This worked for me too. I have an older Harmony that I'd just about gave up on until I changed to these setting!
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post #7675 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 04:23 PM
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I was told the Mitsubishi 73" or 82" DLP is not a "true" 3-D TV. The guy at Best Buy said that there is no set standard for 3D TV's and the Mitsubishi is "3-D ready" but it is not a true 3-D TV as the formats will change in the next year or two.

Is this true?
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post #7676 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lbear View Post

I was told the Mitsubishi 73" or 82" DLP is not a "true" 3-D TV. The guy at Best Buy said that there is no set standard for 3D TV's and the Mitsubishi is "3-D ready" but it is not a true 3-D TV as the formats will change in the next year or two.

Is this true?

What's true is that most of the people you'll talk to at places like Best Buy have absolutely no clue what they're talking about. The 738/838 series TV's support all the 3D formats you should need, including the output from Bluray players. I recall reading that there's a format that (I think) DirecTV uses that isn't supported without the 3D adapter, but other than that these TV's have excellent 3D support. In fact some people who have seen 3D on these, LCD's, and plasmas have said the DLPs do it best.
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post #7677 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 05:19 PM
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My 738 works quite well with my DirecTV receiver in 3D. No adapter required.
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post #7678 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 08:23 PM
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Besides the surround sound, which doesn't matter as most people have HT systems anyway. What does the diamond series offer vs. the non-diamond series?
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post #7679 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njfoses View Post

Super price on the 82838 at fry's! http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3174018

The WD-82838 is NO LONGER available at Fry's. It was a older model # and it was a clearance item and all the stores in the western U.S no longer have it in stock.

Too bad, that was a great price for the 82".
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post #7680 of 8809 Old 08-09-2011, 09:07 PM
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I am using the center speaker successfully on my setup, but my receiver has the ability to adjust the output of each channel individually, and I did have to bump up the volume on the center channel for it to be equal to the other channels.
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