2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 274 - AVS Forum
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post #8191 of 8928 Old 01-05-2012, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

Not side-by-side, the TV should have the current software 12.06 or higher and be set to AUTOMATIC for 3D blu-rays. The Side-by-side setting is for non-standard 3D signals, 3D Blu0-rays are one of the standard 3D signals.

The "Automatic" setting has never worked on my set.

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post #8192 of 8928 Old 01-05-2012, 04:56 PM
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Thanks guys. Worked it out. Part User error, part problem with the glasses. Have it on automatic and it works great. Thanks for the help!
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post #8193 of 8928 Old 01-05-2012, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougReim View Post

The "Automatic" setting has never worked on my set.

What is your source?
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post #8194 of 8928 Old 01-05-2012, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jcrowell_06 View Post

Thanks guys. Worked it out. Part User error, part problem with the glasses. Have it on automatic and it works great. Thanks for the help!

jcrowell_06 What was the problem? This sounds like the same problem I am facing, although I will be getting the set fixed before really diving into this.
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post #8195 of 8928 Old 01-06-2012, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

What is your source?

Cisco RNG200 cable box, LG BD670 Blu Ray & Panasonic BDT-210 Blu Ray all passing through a Denon AVR-3311C via HDMI.
Everything works fine as long as I manually change the settings to side by side but when in the automatic mode it has never worked.

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post #8196 of 8928 Old 01-06-2012, 08:15 PM
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I am thinking it is the LG then? And side by side seems odd to me as that is listed as mostly cable box / satellite, etc..

LG here also.
Try setting the LG to 24mhz. Once I did that when I was in the menu of the Mitsu the glasses would come on, but only while I was in the menu system, once exited no mas
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post #8197 of 8928 Old 01-09-2012, 08:29 AM
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i'm running an 82-738 mitsubishi, content through verizon fios. yesterday while watching the rose parade in 3d (on demand) the 3d "flickered" in and out for a while. i thought it was weak batteries, but then i noticed that you could see the flicker with the glases off (the picture got a bit brighter and then darkened again as the 3d resumed). i assume the problem was either the set or the fios signal or box. anyone else have this experieance or any thoughts?
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post #8198 of 8928 Old 01-09-2012, 06:11 PM
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does anyone have the input lag measurement on any recent 73" or above Mits with the CRT monitor method, or at least with the guitar hero/rock band method?

I'm still using a CRT RPTV with zero input lag and I'm trying to convince myself to switch to one of these.

Thanks
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post #8199 of 8928 Old 01-10-2012, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WatchinInTheNW View Post

I had a ton of issues trying to do it that way - mostly with the PS3 sound. I ended up running all my components direct to the receiver and bypassing the TV output. I was disappointed because I was really looking forward to only having one audio cable for everything (my receiver is limited with digital inputs - no HDMI input either). Probably not the answer you were hoping for though.

You are correct, not really what I was hoping for. I too have limited inputs on the receiver (no hdmi either), and am sick of changing it every time I go from device to device. Really like being able to run it through the tv so I can just turn on the receiver and it is ready.

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Originally Posted by barrister View Post

My 73738 outputs OTA digitally to my receiver and works all of the time. I have an Xbox hooked up with hdmi to the TV and an audio return from the TV's digital output. All works fine with no problems. My receiver is a Yamaha RXV-2400, that has no hdmi inputs. I suspect that your receiver is shutting down its input when it has little or no signal. Can you relate the problem to periods of dormancy?

Nope, what happens is I can be watching anything (tivo, dvd/BD, OTA, sat, etc.) and the sound will just start disappearing, and coming back. Then it just goes away for good. If I restart the TV, it works again, normally for the duration I want to listen through the receiver. Kinda acts like something is getting too hot and shutting down. If I power off the tv, then restart it has time to cool. That is just a guess, but that is kinda what it acts like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

There is also one other possiblity, you have your PS3 set to send Dobly Digital HD, or DTS of any kind when the disc or game offers those options. Neither of these are compatible with the TV, only Standard Dolby Digital (5.1) and PCM 2.0 are acceptd by the TV. The TV will not accept anything that is not compatible and only passes the audio that it accepts back out.

I do not have a PS3, but the other components might be set to DTS, I will check that out. Odd thing is it tends to work fine, then it will disappear. It doesn't just happen when I change from one device to another. So it is normally right in the middle of a movie or tv show when the sound starts acting up.

Brew
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post #8200 of 8928 Old 01-16-2012, 05:11 AM
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I have the 73-738 TV.
Which 3-D Blue Ray players work with this TV ? Is only the Panasonic's or other brands as well ?

MY 7.4 SET UP. Not Perfect But Let's Just Say I'm Happy !!
Onkyo TX-NR809, (Klipsch-KF-28 mains),( Center KC-25), (Front wide- Primus P363), (AR-Stature S20 side surrounds).2 each Klipsch RW12D subs. HSU VTF-3 MK3 and HSU VTF-3 MK4 subs.
Mitsubishi 3D DLP MODEL73-738, DarbeeVision DVP-5000.Pioneer BDP-62FD.
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post #8201 of 8928 Old 01-16-2012, 11:32 AM
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Hello everyone. i am finaly going to buy some 3D glasses and was thinking of getting some ultra clears. I have the WD-65838 and the Panasonic DMP-BDT310. I was going to get the Adult 3D Glasses for Samsung or Mitsubishi Televisions Rechargable Ultra-Clear HD shown herehttp://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/adult.html along with the IR Transmitter. But now they are offering these and was wondering if I should get these instead?http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/mireulco3dgl.html If I were to go with the second link does anyone know if they need an IR Transmitter and if the picture quality through them is any good? Also wonder why they cost a little more? Was thinking maybe they are just there newer model or something. Can someone help me out here please? thanks in advance for any replies.
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post #8202 of 8928 Old 01-16-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdking View Post

Hello everyone. i am finaly going to buy some 3D glasses and was thinking of getting some ultra clears. I have the WD-65838 and the Panasonic DMP-BDT310. I was going to get the Adult 3D Glasses for Samsung or Mitsubishi Televisions Rechargable Ultra-Clear HD shown herehttp://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/adult.html along with the IR Transmitter. But now they are offering these and was wondering if I should get these instead?http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/mireulco3dgl.html If I were to go with the second link does anyone know if they need an IR Transmitter and if the picture quality through them is any good? Also wonder why they cost a little more? Was thinking maybe they are just there newer model or something. Can someone help me out here please? thanks in advance for any replies.

For your model of TV, if the glasses are not "DLP Link Glasses" then you need the emitter. I do not know how good the glasses are.
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post #8203 of 8928 Old 01-16-2012, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

For your model of TV, if the glasses are not "DLP Link Glasses" then you need the emitter. I do not know how good the glasses are.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah I know I can use dlp link or ir glasses with the tv but I guess I was just hoping someone could recommend either one of these to me. Wondering how well they work with the 838 models? And with the second link was wondering if anyone knew about those or has a pair they could comment on? Wondering why the difference in price between the two as well? I thought I would go the IR route because I am concerned about dlp link losing sync. i sit about 7 or 8 feet away from the tv but dont have much light to interfere. Anyone try either one of these glasses with there tv?
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post #8204 of 8928 Old 01-16-2012, 08:11 PM
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Would any of you 2010 model owners care to run some tests to see if you have the defect my 2011 WD-73640 is plagued with? I was a very happy owner of the 2009 model, WD-65737 but this 2011 defect is killing me.

There are videos of the glaring issue in my post here, in "our" thread: (WD-73640 owners)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post21503863

Please be sure to turn off sharpening, and please report if you have the defect or not. You can report in comments on my smugmug photography site where the videos are hosted, or report in our thread, or here if you find the issue.

Thank you.

|
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2011 Mits DLP owners: upgrade firmware to 13.06 to fix picture quality. More here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post21726833
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post #8205 of 8928 Old 01-17-2012, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calmone View Post

i'm running an 82-738 mitsubishi, content through verizon fios. yesterday while watching the rose parade in 3d (on demand) the 3d "flickered" in and out for a while. i thought it was weak batteries, but then i noticed that you could see the flicker with the glases off (the picture got a bit brighter and then darkened again as the 3d resumed). i assume the problem was either the set or the fios signal or box. anyone else have this experieance or any thoughts?

It's not a 3D problem. It's a Mitsubishi light engine problem. i have the 73733 and the 82738 and they have both done this. Kinda like a strobe effect just not as drastic and obvious as a strobe. Call repairs and get em out there. You might want to get video of the TV doing it cause I had a hell of a time getting them to do anything for me because when the tech would come out the TV would never do it so if he did not see it then he could not diagnose and or confirm the issue. So I had to record and send a copy of it to some higher ups to get anything replaced. You also might want to take a look at your lamp. I got mine in Sept 2010 and had to replace the lamp in June 2011 because it failed. There was a bubble at the base of the bulb.( link to pics of the bulb http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20488123 ) Now my TV is getting dim again which is a symptom of the lamp failing again. It's not completely failed yet but its going the same direction as the original lamp.

Another issue some people had with these sets is the HDMI handshake issue. When switching from one hdmi to another hdmi source sometimes the screen would remain blue and you would have to unplug or soft reset the tv by holding the power button for X amount of seconds.

Fix for flicker is Light engine
Fix for tv looking like its getting dimmer. Lamp replacement
Fix for HDMI issue is the Main board.

all of which have been replaced on mine about 6 -8 months ago.

An I am now having the flicker again and the dimming lamp again. The HDMI handshake issue is coming back as well but not as bad as the first time. I can fix the handshake issue but scrollingand going into each input once.

I know that's prob more than you needed to know but just an FYI you are going to have issues with these sets. if not now then later and if not later then you got lucky. lol

one more thing my 73733 has dead pixels (only way i can describe it)or white and black speckles all over the place on the screen. Which is also a light engine fix. I can only expect my 82738 to follow the same path as my 73733.

I'm done with Mitsubish. Having a big TV is no good when you cant get it to function properly. Doesnt make you want to watch it when it flickers and dims and malfunctions. I know all TV's have issues but my 73733 was replaced about 3 times and still has issues after repairs. My 82738 had issues out of the box and still does after being repaired a number of times.

Anyway sorry for the rant . Get your light engine replaced and you should be good for a little bit till its time to replace it again.
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post #8206 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 06:52 AM
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That's not a rant; that's some valuable information.

|
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2011 Mits DLP owners: upgrade firmware to 13.06 to fix picture quality. More here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post21726833
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post #8207 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by import2nr View Post


It's not a 3D problem. It's a Mitsubishi light engine problem. i have the 73733 and the 82738 and they have both done this. Kinda like a strobe effect just not as drastic and obvious as a strobe. Call repairs and get em out there. You might want to get video of the TV doing it cause I had a hell of a time getting them to do anything for me because when the tech would come out the TV would never do it so if he did not see it then he could not diagnose and or confirm the issue. So I had to record and send a copy of it to some higher ups to get anything replaced. You also might want to take a look at your lamp. I got mine in Sept 2010 and had to replace the lamp in June 2011 because it failed. There was a bubble at the base of the bulb.( link to pics of the bulb http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20488123 ) Now my TV is getting dim again which is a symptom of the lamp failing again. It's not completely failed yet but its going the same direction as the original lamp.

Another issue some people had with these sets is the HDMI handshake issue. When switching from one hdmi to another hdmi source sometimes the screen would remain blue and you would have to unplug or soft reset the tv by holding the power button for X amount of seconds.

Fix for flicker is Light engine
Fix for tv looking like its getting dimmer. Lamp replacement
Fix for HDMI issue is the Main board.

all of which have been replaced on mine about 6 -8 months ago.

An I am now having the flicker again and the dimming lamp again. The HDMI handshake issue is coming back as well but not as bad as the first time. I can fix the handshake issue but scrollingand going into each input once.

I know that's prob more than you needed to know but just an FYI you are going to have issues with these sets. if not now then later and if not later then you got lucky. lol

one more thing my 73733 has dead pixels (only way i can describe it)or white and black speckles all over the place on the screen. Which is also a light engine fix. I can only expect my 82738 to follow the same path as my 73733.

I'm done with Mitsubish. Having a big TV is no good when you cant get it to function properly. Doesnt make you want to watch it when it flickers and dims and malfunctions. I know all TV's have issues but my 73733 was replaced about 3 times and still has issues after repairs. My 82738 had issues out of the box and still does after being repaired a number of times.

Anyway sorry for the rant . Get your light engine replaced and you should be good for a little bit till its time to replace it again.

Good info.

I've had my 82737 since June of last year. I've noticed considerable dimming already. Sucks if I have to replace the bulb already, I would expect at least a couple of years on the bulb, based in my last DLP. Maybe my brightness might be brighter on this set though just cuz the larger screen.

I've also noticed a little flicker when watching tv. The screen will dimm slightly when the scene changes then back when it changed again, kinda like an iris. Barely noticeable but I notice such things. Is that a bad sign?

Also I notice that on certain hd shows I can see stuck pixels. But it's only certain shows on certain channels and sometimes only on certain scenes. It's weird. For example on ESPN I'll notice it only when they go to a certain camera angle. Wuts up with that?

I have a spec question. Does anyone know on the 82738, does the coax digital out pass a 5.1 signal to the receiver? I've been told that most sets do not, but I thought digital coax does. Anyone know?
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post #8208 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjahadi View Post

Good info.

I've had my 82737 since June of last year. I've noticed considerable dimming already. Sucks if I have to replace the bulb already, I would expect at least a couple of years on the bulb, based in my last DLP. Maybe my brightness might be brighter on this set though just cuz the larger screen.

I've also noticed a little flicker when watching tv. The screen will dimm slightly when the scene changes then back when it changed again, kinda like an iris. Barely noticeable but I notice such things. Is that a bad sign?

Also I notice that on certain hd shows I can see stuck pixels. But it's only certain shows on certain channels and sometimes only on certain scenes. It's weird. For example on ESPN I'll notice it only when they go to a certain camera angle. Wuts up with that?

I have a spec question. Does anyone know on the 82738, does the coax digital out pass a 5.1 signal to the receiver? I've been told that most sets do not, but I thought digital coax does. Anyone know?


I have noticed a white spot on certain shows as well. but like you said its just that scene or that camera angle and then its gone. And this one white spot is nothing like the specks of white and black you see on my 73733( i should take a pic of it).

Another tell tale sign of the bulb going bad is when you first turn on the tv and its warming up you will notice a flash at the Mitsubishi screen or when the picture form the input you are on shows up. kinda like its on already and then there is a flash. This happens when the screen is not fully warmed up.

I only noticed this because when i replaced the bulb the new bulb did not have the FLASH symptom but now its starting to do it again. When the bulb fully fails it will look like when the TV first turns on but it will stay that dim.

Oh yeah back to the flicker. Like you said when you are watching it you can see it dim and then go back to bright not as fast as a strobe but like 1 min its normal and then its either dims or brightens a few min later or a sec later or even an hour later. best way to catch the flicker is to pause what ever you are watching or playing and its real easy to see it this way. You find yourself wondering which brightness level of the flicker is the correct one

Also I have found that these TV's are very sensitive to power outages. A backup battery should be included with the purchase of these DLP's ( or any new tv for that matter)I have one on each of my TV's. If not to continue to watch TV but at least to let the TV shut down properly.
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post #8209 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 08:22 AM
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Here are some older posted of which show issues I have had with my 82738 FOr those who have seen them sorry for the re-post for those who want to see them but do not want to look through the many pages of this thread here they are

my posts starts at 2021 and continues on through the page and also includes pics of what your TV looks like and also includes a how to of geometry settings and adjustments and also factory defaults

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post19366457

main board info
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19378401

Comments on flickering on my 73732 and 73733
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19381764

some backup battery info
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19387500

hdmi issues
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19392322

main board replaced /update
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post19429803

2nd main board replacement for ghosting and motion blur issues
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post19610975

Light engine DOA
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post19689371

Lamp replacement ( already been seen from recent post)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20488123

comments about how different and better the tv looked after the lamp replacement
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post20490150

And thats about it.

If you just scroll from the first post there are some good reads but its lengthy. lol
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post #8210 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 01:18 PM
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Great info. Still need to find out if coax output to receiver will pass 5.1 surround if anyone knows.
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post #8211 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 01:34 PM
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Great info. Still need to find out if coax output to receiver will pass 5.1 surround if anyone knows.

It works for me. I would have to say yes.
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post #8212 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 02:28 PM
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It works for me. I would have to say yes.

Seems to work for me as well. Was just asking because I have my tv accepting all the hdmi and I have the audio going from the set to the receiver, but someone suggested to me that I may not be getting the best audio doing it that way.

I figure as long as its passing 5.1 digital info, its the same as plugging source direct to receiver.
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post #8213 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjahadi View Post

Seems to work for me as well. Was just asking because I have my tv accepting al the units and I have the audio going from the set to the receiver, but someone suggested to me that I may not be getting the best audio doing it that way.

I figure as long as its passing 5.1 digital info, its the same as plugging source direct to receiver.

I have not had any issues with audio going that rout. I only use it that way when ever i used streaming movies through the tv internet sources. If you think it sounds good then leave it alone. If it bothers you that you could be getting better audio then try something different. Might not be enough of a difference if there is a difference to go through the hassle. But to be honest I don't hear a difference between the coax from the TV to receiver and fiber optics to receiver.
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post #8214 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjahadi View Post

Seems to work for me as well. Was just asking because I have my tv accepting all the hdmi and I have the audio going from the set to the receiver, but someone suggested to me that I may not be getting the best audio doing it that way.

I figure as long as its passing 5.1 digital info, its the same as plugging source direct to receiver.

Well, for some sources (such as a Bluray player), you won't get the best audio your system is capable of by connecting the sources to the TV and sending the audio to your receiver via a coax or toslink digital connection. The lossless audio formats (Dolby True HD, DTS HD Master Audio) can't be sent over anything other than an HDMI connection to the receiver. So if you've got a recent receiver and mid range or better speakers, you should consider connecting at least your Bluray player's HDMI output directly to your receiver. For sources such as a cable box, it doesn't mater, as long as the TV passes the 5.1 Dolby Digital signal on to the receiver.
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post #8215 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
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?

Also I notice that on certain hd shows I can see stuck pixels. But it's only certain shows on certain channels and sometimes only on certain scenes. It's weird. For example on ESPN I'll notice it only when they go to a certain camera angle. Wuts up with that?

I have seen this "stuck pixel phenomenon" only on CNNHD and it occurs with only one camera angle and it occured on same news program set, with that specifica camera angle. It clearly was a problem in the camera.Stuck pixels would show up on any test full screen test pattern. Just think about it. This is mirror driven. The mirrors are either on or off. All the color comes from the color wheel. The white dot I would see was clearly more than one pixel. It was in the broadcast.

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post #8216 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 06:52 PM
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I can only assume my 82738 will be going the way of my 73733 since they have had identical problems.

First started out with a little white spec which was there no matter what channel or show or input then there were two and gradually where were tons and the black specs came in the same way. they are there all the time but the white ones can be seen against a dark background and the black ones can be seen more on a lighter background. The specs them selves twinkle like stars in the night sky. some stay sold and some twinkle. I get more and more it seems.
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post #8217 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by import2nr View Post

I can only assume my 82738 will be going the way of my 73733 since they have had identical problems.

First started out with a little white spec which was there no matter what channel or show or input then there were two and gradually where were tons and the black specs came in the same way. they are there all the time but the white ones can be seen against a dark background and the black ones can be seen more on a lighter background. The specs them selves twinkle like stars in the night sky. some stay sold and some twinkle. I get more and more it seems.
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Is it not under warranty? Even if it wasn't under warranty then I am sure you can convince Mits to replace the chip or the light engine on such a new display. People are getting chips replaced on much older units. While it would be very rare to see the DMD chip fail on such a new set. It would make the case even stronger that Mits should repair it warranty or no, and I am confident they would.

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post #8218 of 8928 Old 01-18-2012, 08:23 PM
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Is it not under warranty? Even if it wasn't under warranty then I am sure you can convince Mits to replace the chip or the light engine on such a new display. People are getting chips replaced on much older units. While it would be very rare to see the DMD chip fail on such a new set. It would make the case even stronger that Mits should repair it warranty or no, and I am confident they would.

Well its not super new. i think its maybe 4 or 5 yrs old and when i saw the first spec i called and i was 2 months out of warranty. I did not bother calling mitsubishi about it since i was way out of manufacturer warranty.

I have a tech coming out tomorrow to look at my 82738 and i might ask him to check out the 73733 while he is here and let me know what he thinks it is and how much it would be to fix it.
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post #8219 of 8928 Old 01-19-2012, 07:34 AM
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I have had my 82738 for a year now and about a month ago noticed the picture got noticeably dimmer. I read some posts and found that I probably just need to change out the lamp.

My questions are...
1. Are all lamps created equal or are some better then others? Also, where is the best place to purchase them?
2. How long should they stay bright for? The one it came with lasted about 11 mo's before dimming out.
3. Is the lamp replacement something I can do myself or do I have to call a TV repair man?

I love the TV and although I don't want to replace the lamp every year, I would to keep the picture looking bright.
Thanks, Steve
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post #8220 of 8928 Old 01-19-2012, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by TripleBlack88 View Post

I have had my 82738 for a year now and about a month ago noticed the picture got noticeably dimmer. I read some posts and found that I probably just need to change out the lamp.

My questions are...
1. Are all lamps created equal or are some better then others? Also, where is the best place to purchase them?

Mitsubishi seems to often be the best place to purchase one. I'm not sure if there are any off-brand versions available or not.

Quote:


2. How long should they stay bright for? The one it came with lasted about 11 mo's before dimming out.

It's usually more related to the number of hours of use rather than number of months or years. I would expect at least a few thousand hours of use before lamp replacement is needed.

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3. Is the lamp replacement something I can do myself or do I have to call a TV repair man?

It's very simple and explained in the manual. All you need is a screwdriver and access to the back of the TV.
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