2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 283 - AVS Forum
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post #8461 of 8922 Old 10-24-2012, 06:47 AM
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I'm going through this same issue. 11 month old wd-73838. Screen turns to a pinkish/green mess for a couple minutes then shuts down and the green light flashes for a minute then stops. I can't count how many tines I've called support only to have them state that I'll receive a call within 2 days and then they schedule out a tech which takes a week to get to look at the set. He verifies the problem and orders a part and 2 weeks later he installs it and its still screwed so he says he's gonna call mitsu for further instructions and the cycle starts all over again. 11 month old set. 2nd light engine. 3 bulbs. 5th digital board. Technically 4 boards due to the last previous to yesterdays install was defective right out of the box. I still play the game and wait to hear back from both mitsu and the tech but now he's gotta fix it in my garage cause had it with this set and placed it out there and moved my old 42 inch Toshiba out of the bedroom and onto the stand where my big and mighty 73 inch box used to be.
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post #8462 of 8922 Old 10-24-2012, 10:13 AM
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I just got off the phone with the repair tech and he's requesting another digital board. Lol
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post #8463 of 8922 Old 10-27-2012, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

One comment I noticed that was missed, Marcus wants the audio to go from the TV to the AVR via HDMI. That is not going to happen, the TV does not support Audio Return Channel on HDMI.
Yes you can still get the TV/VUDU audio to the AVR but you need to connect the TV's Coaxial Digital Audio Output to the AVR. That would be a shielded RCA type cable. You will need to change inputs on the AVR to thisn connection when you want to hear the VUDU. It will be Dolby Digital up to 5.1.
Also yes the picture quality will average much better on VUDU. However it is a pay per view so if you watch more than 2 HD or HDX movies a month, it is more expensive than Netflix. Most HDX movies average $5.99 (1080p) and most HD (720p) movies average $4.99. I cannot see a big difference between HDX and HD so I most often use HD. (yes I can see a small difference but not a big difference).

Well I received my coaxial and ethernet cables this week. I still need to configure my AV Receiver for the audio coming from VUDU.

But, I have to say setting getting setup on VUDU was very easy, seamless in fact. I'm impressed with the different apps they offer like Picasa, Pandora and many others that I haven't tried yet. Most importantly for me is the quality and selection of the movies they offer. Lots of newly released movies that Netflix doesn’t have yet are available. You pay for them as you go and they are not cheap. I can still drive 5 minutes to a local DVD/BD rental store and get the same movies for about half. But, it’s nice to be able to browse and have the choice to watch something that is streamed from time to time.

My only bottleneck now is my home network speed. Within the VUDU app you can run a speed test which will recommend to the user which streaming speed works best for his or her system. VUDU’s recommendation for me is always “SD” which is 480p, it doesn’t look terrible, but it’s not great either. They also offer “HD” (720p) and “HDX” (1080p). I tried watching a few trailers and previews at the HDX speed and the feed was, as expected, interrupted many times while it buffered. I need to check with my internet provider to find out my options for increasing the bandwidth.

But, so far I’m liking VUDU. Wal-Mart might be on to something.
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post #8464 of 8922 Old 10-29-2012, 08:01 PM
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Almost lime green football field...

I have DirecTV and for some reason the football field is almost lime green on MNF again. I've tried tweaking the tint & green levels to no avail. Can anybody help me darken the field up?

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post #8465 of 8922 Old 10-30-2012, 10:27 AM
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Is this problem on all channels only one or two? If only one or two, it is a problem with the channel that the TV will not be able to correct. Remember, broadcasters sometimes make mistakes and not all picture problems are the TV.
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post #8466 of 8922 Old 10-30-2012, 05:05 PM
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I called Mitsubishi for an update and after a long hold I finally got transferred to an advisor who looked into my case. According to her the calls I was making to customer support and after being asked which model I was calling about the person on the phone was putting all the notes on the wrong TV. Before I bought the wd-73838 I owned a wd-60638 which I sold the day I bought the 73. Even though I no longer owned the 60 the person on the phone put all the notes about the issues reported by myself and the repair tech on the file for the 60. Once she figured out the error she apologized and put in an order to replace my 73 for a new wd73842. They even offered to allow me to keep the wd-73838 which I have no use for so I have a feeling I'll be disposing to someone else who might need some new parts. Once I receive the new set I'll repost in case anyone needs a part or the whole TV. I'm in Massachusetts.
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post #8467 of 8922 Old 10-30-2012, 07:25 PM
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Primarily ESPN and CBS.
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post #8468 of 8922 Old 11-04-2012, 04:18 AM
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I got the tracking number for the replacement set from mitsubishi but in the meantime i`ve been trying to straighten out the issues with the set i have now. The one issue i`m having now is in the menu and i select setup and then in energy and scroll to lamp energy and try to switch from standard to bright the set will immediately shut down. The front panel will have a single green flashing light that goes on for roughly for a minute and then i can restart the set. It will switch back to standard and run wihout any issue. This is much too good of a set to just toss out and would appreciate any info anyone might have in zeroing in on the problem. The set hasn`t done the crazy color flashing lately but i do get some sound pops randomly. I`ve been shopping for a replacement because i told myself i was done with dlp but after going to the box stores and looking at countless lcd and led tv`s none of them really stand out compared to the value of a large screen dlp.
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post #8469 of 8922 Old 11-04-2012, 04:48 AM
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Everyones asleep so i thought i`d try and narrow down some issues. Pulled the stand away from the wall and check the connections one by one to the back of the set. All 3 hdmi inputs but basically i have always just plugged an item in and that was it. Today i was just slightly wiggling the connector where it goes into the set and through my satellite the picture and sound goes out from the slightest movement into the tv set. Loose hdmi connector ports? I tried changing out the hdmi cables and moved them into different ports but didn`t change the result.
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post #8470 of 8922 Old 11-04-2012, 06:51 PM
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Ok, tonight, while watch the TV, the TV suddenly turned itself off with rapid green flash (as before... I got the main board replaced last time due to same issue - under warranty).

After green flash went off, I was able to turn the TV back on and finish watching the TV.

Now, it is 7 mo. out of warranty period, BUT I bought the TV using my Amex, so I should have another 5 months before THAT warranty runs out I guess.

does anyone know REAL reason behind this issue?

I don't have any other issues, no issues with pictures/colors, etc.

After the mainboard replacement, I had no issues what so ever until today.

I wish I know the REAL issue, is it overheating? Should I install the additional USB fan that some people talked about?
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post #8471 of 8922 Old 11-04-2012, 07:29 PM
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Under the heading of "no good deed goes unpunished" I decided to clean the dust and cat hair out of the inside of my 65738. Was amazingly filthy.

In doing so of course I now I dirt/dust on the lens of the main light engine. Couple of lines on the display. I can't reach it and even if I could I couldn't polish it the way it needs to be.

I've seen the insides come out when main board replaced and I'm sure I can get to the light engine to clean it properly. I'd also like to do the mirror. Really clean it an polish it.

Any suggestions?

I'll start searching the thread now for dis-assembly instructions IF I want to remove the front. Does not seem like it would be all that hard.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8472 of 8922 Old 11-04-2012, 07:30 PM
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does anyone know REAL reason behind this issue?


I do not know the specifics but in general it is something on the main board.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8473 of 8922 Old 11-06-2012, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

does anyone know REAL reason behind this issue?
I do not know the specifics but in general it is something on the main board.

I doubt there is only one single reason. The "shut down" can also be a protection cirtuit reaction when a spike is received on AC, or when a corrupted digital signal is receive, or any other odd signal is received. It is not always a fault in the TV.
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post #8474 of 8922 Old 11-06-2012, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

I doubt there is only one single reason. The "shut down" can also be a protection cirtuit reaction when a spike is received on AC, or when a corrupted digital signal is receive, or any other odd signal is received. It is not always a fault in the TV.

However, that does NOT explain the elimination of issue when the board is replaced as in my case, no other component has been replaced.

Of course, after 10 months after replacement, the issue has re-surfaced.
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post #8475 of 8922 Old 11-06-2012, 01:02 PM
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The point is that you may not have completely eliminated the shut downs with a new board. Only the most frequent types your were experiancing. The types from outside source (bad signals, spikes etc.) are unpreditiable and totally random so you can never tell.
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post #8476 of 8922 Old 11-07-2012, 09:11 AM
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Well took my TV apart. Was not that hard. Have to pop off bottom panel on the front where the power led light is, etc., to get to all screws for the bezel. Cleaned lens, cleaned mirror, cleaned lenticular screen, all very carefully. Everything was very dirty. Due to its design one can speculate about what is the reasonable longevity. You can't keep pulling air and the dust that comes along with it into an electronic device and not have some kind of issues.

Everything is clean and all mirrors now sparkle.

Still have what looks like dust lines on the screen across the top. So its either in the color wheel parts of the light engine, the light engine is going bad inside somehow or the electronics are putting some kind of noise on the video signal.

Negligible from a distance but up close you can see them easily.

Looks like a service call. Thank God for extended warranties.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8477 of 8922 Old 11-07-2012, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

The point is that you may not have completely eliminated the shut downs with a new board. Only the most frequent types your were experiancing. The types from outside source (bad signals, spikes etc.) are unpreditiable and totally random so you can never tell.
True, I had the identical experience you just described.

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post #8478 of 8922 Old 11-08-2012, 03:03 AM
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Would somebody please post on how to look at the hours used on these TV's. I know there's a code using the remote. Is there a way to check other codes ? Do I need to purchase a service manual or something ?
Thanks

MY 7.4 SET UP. Not Perfect But Let's Just Say I'm Happy !!
Onkyo TX-NR809, (Klipsch-KF-28 mains),( Center KC-25), (Front wide- Primus P363), (AR-Stature S20 side surrounds).2 each Klipsch RW12D subs. HSU VTF-3 MK3 and HSU VTF-3 MK4 subs.
Mitsubishi 3D DLP MODEL73-738, DarbeeVision DVP-5000.Pioneer BDP-62FD.
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post #8479 of 8922 Old 11-08-2012, 06:03 AM
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I could be wrong on the code but on my wd73838 I press menu then 2470 or menu 2457
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post #8480 of 8922 Old 11-09-2012, 03:31 AM
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OK,
Thanks I'll see if those codes will work on my 73-738.

MY 7.4 SET UP. Not Perfect But Let's Just Say I'm Happy !!
Onkyo TX-NR809, (Klipsch-KF-28 mains),( Center KC-25), (Front wide- Primus P363), (AR-Stature S20 side surrounds).2 each Klipsch RW12D subs. HSU VTF-3 MK3 and HSU VTF-3 MK4 subs.
Mitsubishi 3D DLP MODEL73-738, DarbeeVision DVP-5000.Pioneer BDP-62FD.
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post #8481 of 8922 Old 11-14-2012, 04:44 PM
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mitsubishi 60738. picture has slight flicker from time to time in top right corner. replaced lamp, now it flickers slightly on the entire left side. may this be a lamp issue or a ballast issue? anyone?
also, only does this in standard lamp mode, if i turn it to bright and leave it there, the flicker is gone
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post #8482 of 8922 Old 11-14-2012, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoe1028 View Post

mitsubishi 60738. picture has slight flicker from time to time in top right corner. replaced lamp, now it flickers slightly on the entire left side. may this be a lamp issue or a ballast issue? anyone?
also, only does this in standard lamp mode, if i turn it to bright and leave it there, the flicker is gone
I've the same occasionally, not sure what causes it(lamp w/ 4500hrs).

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post #8483 of 8922 Old 11-15-2012, 06:53 AM
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I have dealt with the flicker issue almost from day 1 on the 7378 so it to me seems like a design flaw somewhere. However after replacing all parts including the lamp and ballast, and seeing it come back, here's how I finally fixed it...

I took the lamp off standard/low/eco mode. Have not seen a flicker since. I realize this will shorten the lamp life but I had settings dialed back so the Eco wasn't making things much dimmer anyway.

If you are running in Eco, try putting your lamp on the normal/bright mode and let me know if it fixes you up. If you are already not in Eco, I dunno what else to say. I just know that the annoying flicker totally stopped since I stopped using that mode.
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post #8484 of 8922 Old 11-15-2012, 08:05 AM
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yeah, i have to use in bright mode. in bright mode i see no flicker ever. if i switch to standard mode it starts flickering about 15 minutes after doing so
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post #8485 of 8922 Old 11-15-2012, 03:03 PM
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I've always used bright mode on all 4 of my Mitsubishi TV's so I've never seen a flicker...

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post #8486 of 8922 Old 11-21-2012, 12:10 PM
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I have a 73738 model and it had a great pic. The original bulb started getting dim and dimmer just after one year. Replaced with genuine OEM and it died just under the six month warranty period. Now I am on the third bulb. But, the picture started getting all messed up. Thank goodness I got an extended warranty. The first light engine worked in the shop all day. Delivered and played for 5-6 hours and gone again. Does Mits have a light engine problem?
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post #8487 of 8922 Old 11-25-2012, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galaxie500fb View Post

I could be wrong on the code but on my wd73838 I press menu then 2470 or menu 2457

Thanks as that did work. My set is showing a total of 664 hours. Is that good , bad, do I need to buy a bulb now ?

MY 7.4 SET UP. Not Perfect But Let's Just Say I'm Happy !!
Onkyo TX-NR809, (Klipsch-KF-28 mains),( Center KC-25), (Front wide- Primus P363), (AR-Stature S20 side surrounds).2 each Klipsch RW12D subs. HSU VTF-3 MK3 and HSU VTF-3 MK4 subs.
Mitsubishi 3D DLP MODEL73-738, DarbeeVision DVP-5000.Pioneer BDP-62FD.
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post #8488 of 8922 Old 11-25-2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Thanks as that did work. My set is showing a total of 664 hours. Is that good , bad, do I need to buy a bulb now ?
That's good.
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post #8489 of 8922 Old 11-25-2012, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squeakybirnbaum View Post

That's good.

Thanks for the info. Is there a time frame in terms of hours, I should consider replacing the bulb ?

MY 7.4 SET UP. Not Perfect But Let's Just Say I'm Happy !!
Onkyo TX-NR809, (Klipsch-KF-28 mains),( Center KC-25), (Front wide- Primus P363), (AR-Stature S20 side surrounds).2 each Klipsch RW12D subs. HSU VTF-3 MK3 and HSU VTF-3 MK4 subs.
Mitsubishi 3D DLP MODEL73-738, DarbeeVision DVP-5000.Pioneer BDP-62FD.
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post #8490 of 8922 Old 11-25-2012, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Thanks for the info. Is there a time frame in terms of hours, I should consider replacing the bulb ?
Its' never too early to order one to have a spare around. Otherwise, just replace it when the picture gets noticeably dim or the bulb blows, but I wouldn't expect to need to replace it until at least ~1500 hours or so of use.
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