2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 286 - AVS Forum
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post #8551 of 8840 Old 01-14-2013, 04:41 PM
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Thanks. Trying to find service manual for the 737 or the 735. The cabinet is not the same but the screens just might be.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8552 of 8840 Old 01-15-2013, 02:45 PM
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Did you find the manual. If not I have it.
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post #8553 of 8840 Old 01-15-2013, 02:50 PM
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fresnel lens 491P218020 , lenticular screen 491P217050
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post #8554 of 8840 Old 01-15-2013, 02:52 PM
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[#] Model Legend: (a) WD-60737, (b) WD-60C9, (c) WD-65737, (d) WD-65837, (e) WD-65C9,
(f) WD-73737, (g) WD-73837, (h) WD-73C9, (i) WD-82737, (j) WD-82837
SCREEN PARTS - 60”, 65” & 73” MODELS
Ref# Part# Description Model
(0) LENS-TAPE TAPE-LENS
(1) 491P217040 SCREEN-LENTICULAR ab
(1) 491P217050 SCREEN-LENTICULAR cde
(1) 491P217060 SCREEN-LENTICULAR fgh
(2) 491P218010 LENS-FRESNEL ab
(2) 491P218020 LENS-FRESNEL cde
(2) 491P218030 LENS-FRESNEL fgh
(3) 593B341010 HOLDER-SCREEN T cde
(3) 593B350010 HOLDER-SCREEN-T ab
(3) 593B371010 HOLDER-SCREEN-T fgh
(4) 593B342010 HOLDER-SCREEN B cde
(4) 593B359010 HOLDER-SCREEN-B ab
(4) 593B372010 HOLDER-SCREEN-B fgh
(5) 621B196010 HOLDER-SCREEN S ab
(5) 621B196020 HOLDER-SCREEN S cde
(5) 621B207010 HOLDER-SCREEN-S fgh
Ref# Part# Description Model
(6) 622C487080 SPACER-SCREEN CORNERS fgh
(7) 622C489060 SPACER-SCREEN-TOP ab
(7) 622C489080 SPACER-SCREEN-TOP cdefgh
(8) 622C550080 SPACER-SCREEN-B cde
(8) 622C550090 SPACER-SCREEN-B ab
(8) 622C601030 SPACER-SCREEN-B fgh
(9) 622C608010 SPACER-SCREEN-S fgh
(10) 621B211010 COVER-HOLDER-T cde
(10) 621B212010 COVER-HOLDER-T ab
(10) 621B213010 COVER-HOLDER-T fgh
(11) 761A382020 BEZEL-FRONT ce
(11) 761A383020 BEZEL-FRONT ab
(11) 761A384020 BEZEL-FRONT fh
(11) 761A422010 BEZEL-FRONT d
(11) 761A424010 BEZEL-FRONT g
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post #8555 of 8840 Old 01-15-2013, 03:06 PM
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According to Sears parts.com, the screens appear to not be the same for the 738 series. https://sso.shld.net/shccas/shcLogin?gateway=true&service=https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/j_acegi_cas_security_check

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post #8556 of 8840 Old 01-15-2013, 05:15 PM
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Thanks for all the help.

Looks like staying in the x38 line is my best bet.

I've found a couple in Craigslist but sellers are priced too high.

I'll keep looking. If I can find a 638 that isn't working it should be reasonably priced and I can swap the screen/bezel.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8557 of 8840 Old 01-16-2013, 06:14 AM
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Well it is not the screen. Since the warranty isn't going to apply anyway there is little down side to my removing the front bezel and screen to see if something could be cleaned, something inbetween the screen layers, etc.

The screen is fine.

It is the mirror. The coating on the mirror is getting lines in it. Can't see it if you look straight on but if you look at an angle you can see all the lines which are the very same lines that show up on the screen.

The tech did not take the bezel off the unit. He moved the light engine to see if the lines stayed with the picture. Since they didn't he concluded it was the screen. What was happening is as he moved the light engine the image was hitting a different area on the mirror so of course the lines did not stay with the image.

His diagnostics discovered it COULD be the screen, it could also have been the mirror.

I polished the mirror with windshield cleaner/polish. Doing so did clean up the lines, they aren't really scratches, enough so that the picture is back to being great and no lines. Not sure how long that "fix" will work.

I'll be calling the repair place today I can assure you.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8558 of 8840 Old 01-16-2013, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

Well it is not the screen. Since the warranty isn't going to apply anyway there is little down side to my removing the front bezel and screen to see if something could be cleaned, something inbetween the screen layers, etc.

The screen is fine.

It is the mirror. The coating on the mirror is getting lines in it. Can't see it if you look straight on but if you look at an angle you can see all the lines which are the very same lines that show up on the screen.

The tech did not take the bezel off the unit. He moved the light engine to see if the lines stayed with the picture. Since they didn't he concluded it was the screen. What was happening is as he moved the light engine the image was hitting a different area on the mirror so of course the lines did not stay with the image.

His diagnostics discovered it COULD be the screen, it could also have been the mirror.

I polished the mirror with windshield cleaner/polish. Doing so did clean up the lines, they aren't really scratches, enough so that the picture is back to being great and no lines. Not sure how long that "fix" will work.

I'll be calling the repair place today I can assure you.
Congratulations.. Nice job figuring that out. I wonder if it will reoccur. Maybe it was just some kind of residue on the top edge of the mirror that finally ran down? That's a new one.
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post #8559 of 8840 Old 01-16-2013, 11:02 AM
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Thanks. Hard to tell. Looks more like some kind of finish, protecting coat, something that is supposed to be on the mirror. Why all of the sudden? Maybe heat related and the heat impacted the finish? Who knows?

The repair place is refunding me the cost of the technician's visit.

Finding mirror kits on-line but until the symptom comes back I'm not spending any money.

Money going into "New TV" fund.

I recall in the past reading something about folks removing the outer screen. Don't remember any details and it was awhile ago. Wondering if I can remove the outer screen. Isn't just a protecting kind of thing?

Also found out the MIT extended warranty does not cover mirrors either. Geez.....

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8560 of 8840 Old 01-16-2013, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

Thanks. Hard to tell. Looks more like some kind of finish, protecting coat, something that is supposed to be on the mirror. Why all of the sudden? Maybe heat related and the heat impacted the finish? Who knows?

The repair place is refunding me the cost of the technician's visit.

Finding mirror kits on-line but until the symptom comes back I'm not spending any money.

Money going into "New TV" fund.

I recall in the past reading something about folks removing the outer screen. Don't remember any details and it was awhile ago. Wondering if I can remove the outer screen. Isn't just a protecting kind of thing?

Also found out the MIT extended warranty does not cover mirrors either. Geez.....

Some RPTVs had a third screen in front that you could remove. Not so with your TV.

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post #8561 of 8840 Old 01-16-2013, 12:02 PM
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Thanks.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8562 of 8840 Old 01-17-2013, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotShorty View Post

Thanks again for your reply, Paul.R.S. I replaced my lamp last night, and now have zero flickering and a picture that's more vivid than I've ever seen it! (I bought a display model with just under 2k hours on it). I suppose 4.5k hours on the bright setting is enough to degrade picture quality rolleyes.gif

Groovy.
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post #8563 of 8840 Old 01-24-2013, 07:13 AM
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Picture still looking good. Glad I took the time to dig a little further and investigate.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8564 of 8840 Old 01-27-2013, 10:45 AM
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My 82838 has about 4300 hours on the OEM and lamp it looks very dim, most likely due to the "tons" of power on - power off cycles. Kids.....

Does anyone know the best place (cheapest) to get the original OEM lamp replacement? I did some searching and all I could really find was that there are 2 OEM choices:

Phillips bulb
OSRAM bulb (OEM Mits bulb)

I know that Mitsuparts sells the OSRAM OEM for 99 + 10 shipping but I'm trying to find a better deal...
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post #8565 of 8840 Old 01-27-2013, 01:13 PM
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$99 is about the best you can get it. Local retailers were telling me upwards of $150-250.. I told them where they can put that.
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post #8566 of 8840 Old 01-27-2013, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

$99 is about the best you can get it. Local retailers were telling me upwards of $150-250.. I told them where they can put that.

One of the threads pointed to an ebay seller (Nio Sales). That store is selling the OEM housing with Phillips bulb for 84.99 while the OEM OSRAM bulb is 99. They don't charge shipping so that's at least $10 cheaper than buying direct from Mitsuparts (UPS basic shipping charge is $10)

link to Phillips OEM bulb with housing from NIOSALES (ebay):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Lamp-with-Housing-For-Mitsubishi-915B441001-WD-73C10-WD-82738-WD-82838-/160931984260?pt=US_Rear_Projection_TV_Lamps&hash=item25784b3384
Any opinions on going with the Phillips over the OSRAM (Neolux and Osram I assume is same company)?
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post #8567 of 8840 Old 01-27-2013, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

One of the threads pointed to an ebay seller (Nio Sales). That store is selling the OEM housing with Phillips bulb for 84.99 while the OEM OSRAM bulb is 99. They don't charge shipping so that's at least $10 cheaper than buying direct from Mitsuparts (UPS basic shipping charge is $10)

Any opinions on going with the Phillips over the OSRAM (Neolux and Osram I assume is same company)?

Re Neolux and Osram:

"OSRAM, a leading manufacturer of high quality lighting products,
introduces a new dual product strategy for the rear projection TV
market.

In recent years there has been an influx of low quality, rear projection
TV lamps into the aftermarket that attempted to fill the increased
demand for lower cost replacement lamps. Because of unacceptable
quality levels of the typical generic lamp, there is a high level of
consumer dissatisfaction. As a result, OSRAM now offers a new family
of rear projection lamps called NEOLUX, which targets the cost
conscious consumer at a higher quality level. "

Ref: http://assets.sylvania.com/assets/Documents/DO014.bb023c36-3eeb-4788-822b-0952e8269d20.pdf

I'm not sure this is a good move on the part of Osram. It's kind of like Mercedes offering a cheap little car to compete with Kia. The effect is to muddy your own brand.
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post #8568 of 8840 Old 01-28-2013, 01:11 PM
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Thanks Chuck.

Just ordered the Phillips OEM from Niosales. Will post my results when I get it
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post #8569 of 8840 Old 01-30-2013, 03:09 PM
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Need help guys!!

Just received my replacement Phillips lamp and housing. Took old (still working but dim) bulb out.

Plugged new housing/bulb in and I can't get the 2 screws to seat so I could tighten them. After messing with this for a half hour I decided to swap screws. No change.

I looked at the new housing and for some reason it is not seating all the back into the recess so it's no wonder why the screws wouldn't start.

So now what to do. Only option is to try and swap the new bulb into the old housing?

Has anyone else ran into this problem??
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post #8570 of 8840 Old 01-30-2013, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

Need help guys!!

Just received my replacement Phillips lamp and housing. Took old (still working but dim) bulb out.

Plugged new housing/bulb in and I can't get the 2 screws to seat so I could tighten them. After messing with this for a half hour I decided to swap screws. No change.

I looked at the new housing and for some reason it is not seating all the back into the recess so it's no wonder why the screws wouldn't start.

So now what to do. Only option is to try and swap the new bulb into the old housing?

Has anyone else ran into this problem??

I thought OEM was Osram so how can Phillips be OEM?
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post #8571 of 8840 Old 01-30-2013, 04:26 PM
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They told me that both Phillips and OSRAM make OEM bulbs for the Mitsubishis.

I got fed up. There is something odd shaped about the new replacement housing which would not allow it to fully seat.

I looked up the YOUTUBE videos posted by SHOPJIMMY and swapped the new bulb into the existing housing.

Now the TV fired back up and looks MUCH Brighter. Very happy until about 10 minutes on and the picture started flickering badly! Shut the TV off and turned back on, this time flickered bad and shut off with solid red light!

This is unbelievable. Call NIOSALES (shopjimmy) but the were closed. Called Mitsubishi and explained what had occurred to this point. Rep told me that to try reseating bulb/housing and try again. If red light still there hold power button down for 10 seconds to reset.

So I unplugged TV and put original bulb back in original housing and installed. Luckily it powered right back up but guess what. My screen is now intermittently flickering but not quite as often or bad as the replacement bulb. What the heck. I couldn't have done something to the light engine or similar just trying to replace the bulb could I. I am so disappointed and disgusted at wasting an entire evening and now having a problem that I didn't have before I started

Does anyone have any advice or has this happened to anyone else trying to replace their OEM bulb/housing?
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post #8572 of 8840 Old 01-30-2013, 08:51 PM
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Are you positive the lamp is seating the whole way in? Look at the connector where the lamp plug is and check to see if either end of it is damaged.
Also make sure you lamp door switch is solidly made.

I doubt you hurt the light engine in any way, ballast maybe if the phillips lamp went bad but still unlikely.
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post #8573 of 8840 Old 01-30-2013, 09:11 PM
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Paco. Checked the connectors and I didn't see any damage.

The Phillips bulb/housing from NIOSALES would not push in all the way no matter what I did. I had called them earlier in the day and spoke to tech support. They said that they had a recent batch of housing with similar "non fitting" issues and they didn't have a solution or fix for that yet. That sounds like a problem to me and I question whether they are selling genuine OEM bulbs/housings??

Now I have to wonder what do do next. Obviously I'm going to call tomorrow and explain all the issues and what I did to resolve them but I really hope that I didn't do anything to the TV components (ballast). How would I know that I blew the ballast Paco? Not sure what to do next and again very disappointed as I've had pretty much "bullet proof" performance up until now.
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post #8574 of 8840 Old 01-31-2013, 06:03 AM
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You can check the input voltage to the ballast and make sure it is steady, I think it is over 300 volts. You can't check the output unfortunately with most meters as it is 10,000-15,000 volts at start up.

You could always just get a Mitsubushi lamp and housing, then you would be sure it just isn't the lamp - it still could be the lamp at this point.

Ballast isn't a big deal to change out in most cases.
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post #8575 of 8840 Old 01-31-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

You can check the input voltage to the ballast and make sure it is steady, I think it is over 300 volts. You can't check the output unfortunately with most meters as it is 10,000-15,000 volts at start up.

You could always just get a Mitsubushi lamp and housing, then you would be sure it just isn't the lamp - it still could be the lamp at this point.

Ballast isn't a big deal to change out in most cases.

Thank You Paco. I turned on the TV about 3 hours later and watched for about 2 hours and luckily it didn't flash once. Very strange. I'm hoping it was the original bulb doing that and it somehow just needed to settle down?

I'm going to call up NIOSALES and try and get a refund and order the OEM from Mitsuparts.
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post #8576 of 8840 Old 01-31-2013, 01:42 PM
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I know everyone likes to save some $$$ but $99 for a lamp and housing that you know WILL work isn't too bad. I am surprised on the phillips lamp going.
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post #8577 of 8840 Old 01-31-2013, 03:13 PM
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I agree. Luckily NIOSALES agreed to take the bulb back wit 100% refund.

They should as the housing didn't even fit into TV correctly. Again I don't think the housing was OEM because the lamp/housing came in a brown box and did not say either Mitsubishi or Phillips anywhere.

I ordered the part from Mitsubishi but was surprised to see that they add a 5 handling on top the 10 for UPS and tax on top of that!! So 122 bucks for OEM replacement. And they only warranty for 90 days! I saw many dealers offering the OEM bulbs with warrantys from 6 months to a year. Oh well, as long as the Mitsubishi housing/bulb fits and works as described, I'll be happy
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post #8578 of 8840 Old 01-31-2013, 04:22 PM
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Happy Dance short lived.

New mirror ordered. Just over 100 bucks,

Lines started coming back. Did some digging into the "mirror". Its not the classic mirror, glass with reflective coating on the back. The mirror in my 65738 is a thin sheet of glass with very thing reflective coat on the front.

While I probably could buff it and wax it again, that will be short term fix once again. The problem is that thin reflective coating has gotten weird.

I don't think its sprayed on. Seems more like the glass and the coating run through some kind of rollers and the reflective coat is pressed on.

Local glass company could probably cut a mirror, a real mirror, to replace it. Cost unlikely to be significantly less than the replacement OEM mirror and I'd have to figure out how to reattach the support brackets. Probably just industrial two sided tape.

Picture is livable for the Super Bowl.

New mirror scheduled to arrive by Feb 7th.

Easy to replace.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #8579 of 8840 Old 02-01-2013, 04:19 PM
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It has to be a front surface mirror, not the common back surface mirror, that kind of mirror will cause very bad reflections from the front surface of the glass. You have to be very careful cleaning a front surface mirror as the reflective coating is usually pretty soft.

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post #8580 of 8840 Old 02-01-2013, 04:59 PM
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Learned more about the "can't use regular mirror" today. Spent some time talking to a mirror/glass shop owner. The typical mirror, according to him, the glass has a prism kind of effect as the image goes through it from the light engine and then back out through it to the screen.

He said he wouldn't even know where to start calling in the Phoenix area for someone that might have any bulk front reflective glass to cut to size. Then I'd have to attach the support brackets.

Still not sure why mine starting having streaks in it. Don't know about how soft it is in comparison to other types of surface additions but I do know it is THIN. Would have never cleaned it other than wiping with a lint free microfiber cloth if it didn't first have the irregularities. When I look at it from the side I can see where the image has been hitting. The area of the mirror that has never been touched by the image from the light engine is clean and bright. The area where the image has been hitting it is easy to see the outline, there is like a shadow. Its not burn in. Its hard to describe.

In AZ it is so hot in the summer that the plastic in our car interiors gives off some barely noticeable fumes. BUT you get this fine fog like coating on the inside of the windshield. You don't even notice its there unless you wipe the windshield with something. Then you can see the clean streak where you wiped it and the fine fog like layer where you didn't.

The area on the mirror where the image has been hitting, it looks like that. Can't see it from head on. From the side you could use a felt pen and outline where the image has been reflecting off of perfectly. You wouldn't notice it except for where the image has not been hitting is clean and quite shiny.

New one is available and I'll have it in a week or so. I was hoping I could find a solution so the image would be pristine for the Super Bowl. Most of the time you can't see the marks but once and awhile with a light background you can see them plainly.

Have learned a lot in the process. I'm still always amazed at the dust inside the thing even in just a short time. Not as bad as the LED's in the last of the Samsungs but still the air flow could be improved.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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