2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 304 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

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post #9091 of 9114 Old 04-14-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DougReim View Post
I've looked into those a lot, and they're usually pretty awful(as the reviews state). For $20, there'd be no harm, except that some of them damage the TV itself. Way too hit or miss.

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post #9092 of 9114 Old 04-14-2016, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rightintel View Post
I've looked into those a lot, and they're usually pretty awful(as the reviews state). For $20, there'd be no harm, except that some of them damage the TV itself. Way too hit or miss.
You may be right, but as I say, it worked for me. My picture appears as bright and clear as when I bought the TV and now I don't have to integrate a new TV into my remote, especially since I'm not happy with the 75" LCD that I got for another room a couple of years ago. As long as you have a light controlled room, I still prefer the DLP picture to an LCD picture. The newer tech TV's are for sure brighter, but I think less natural. Even if the new bulb destroys my TV, I'd be where I'd have been originally and that is buying a new TV, relearning my remote and settling for a picture that I'm not that happy with.

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post #9093 of 9114 Old 04-14-2016, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DougReim View Post
You may be right, but as I say, it worked for me. My picture appears as bright and clear as when I bought the TV and now I don't have to integrate a new TV into my remote, especially since I'm not happy with the 75" LCD that I got for another room a couple of years ago. As long as you have a light controlled room, I still prefer the DLP picture to an LCD picture. The newer tech TV's are for sure brighter, but I think less natural. Even if the new bulb destroys my TV, I'd be where I'd have been originally and that is buying a new TV, relearning my remote and settling for a picture that I'm not that happy with.

Just to clarify, DLP is the newer technology. LCD and Plasma TVs were around long before DLPs were invented (Plasma 1964, LCD 1964, DLP 1987).

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post #9094 of 9114 Old 04-17-2016, 11:17 AM
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Hey Guys/Gals.

I see Samsung has an 85" 4K set out and it's priced at 7999 (on sale) at Best Buy.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-...&skuId=8831036

Did some quick googling and found an online retailer selling this set for $4965 with free shipping.

Killer set. bigger than my 82" DLP and has 3d and 4K??

Granted 5K is not cheap but that beats the $4K 75" Vizio doesn't it?

Anyone else see this as a candidate for replacement?
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post #9095 of 9114 Old 04-17-2016, 07:08 PM
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Hey Guys/Gals.

I see Samsung has an 85" 4K set out and it's priced at 7999 (on sale) at Best Buy.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-...&skuId=8831036

Did some quick googling and found an online retailer selling this set for $4965 with free shipping.

Killer set. bigger than my 82" DLP and has 3d and 4K??

Granted 5K is not cheap but that beats the $4K 75" Vizio doesn't it?

Anyone else see this as a candidate for replacement?

If it appears too good to be true, chances are... Caveat Emptor

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post #9096 of 9114 Old 04-17-2016, 07:20 PM
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If it appears too good to be true, chances are... Caveat Emptor

Auger. I completely understand about deals and things that are to good to be true.

What's your opinion on that set though? I mean I really wasn't aware there were any decent flat panels out there over 80" and well under 10 grand.

I ordered my 82838 online from a similar discounter on the East Coast. It was close to half off MSRP at the time of purchase. Deal was true and it showed up on my doorstep and I'm still enjoying the set today. Thing is if you're paying by Credit Card, you're protected anyway. If the dealer doesn't honor amount or doesn't deliver, no problem. You don't pay. If they honor price but shows up damaged, you're still covered by the CC company.

Way I see it what's the worst that can happen? You don't get the TV or price that was promised, you pick up and you look elsewhere. No big deal. Just my .02
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post #9097 of 9114 Old 04-18-2016, 09:41 AM
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Auger. I completely understand about deals and things that are to good to be true.

What's your opinion on that set though? I mean I really wasn't aware there were any decent flat panels out there over 80" and well under 10 grand.

I ordered my 82838 online from a similar discounter on the East Coast. It was close to half off MSRP at the time of purchase. Deal was true and it showed up on my doorstep and I'm still enjoying the set today. Thing is if you're paying by Credit Card, you're protected anyway. If the dealer doesn't honor amount or doesn't deliver, no problem. You don't pay. If they honor price but shows up damaged, you're still covered by the CC company.

Way I see it what's the worst that can happen? You don't get the TV or price that was promised, you pick up and you look elsewhere. No big deal. Just my .02
Here is a professional review of this model:

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ju7100
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post #9098 of 9114 Old 04-18-2016, 10:34 AM
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Thanks for the info/links. So what are your opinions of the TV?
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post #9099 of 9114 Old 04-18-2016, 01:29 PM
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Thanks for the info/links. So what are your opinions of the TV?
I have the JS8500, but I've seen the 65" version of the JU7100 at Best Buy and it's got a very bright, colorful picture. I can imagine that at the size you're contemplating it would make for a very impressive display, especially once calibrated or at least with the settings suggested by the rtings.com website. And coming from a DLP (I used to own one myself!), I think you'll be pleased with the overall contrast and black levels on the JU7100. I would suggest you check out the owners' thread to get some more info from actual owners.
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post #9100 of 9114 Old 04-18-2016, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post
I have the JS8500, but I've seen the 65" version of the JU7100 at Best Buy and it's got a very bright, colorful picture. I can imagine that at the size you're contemplating it would make for a very impressive display, especially once calibrated or at least with the settings suggested by the rtings.com website. And coming from a DLP (I used to own one myself!), I think you'll be pleased with the overall contrast and black levels on the JU7100. I would suggest you check out the owners' thread to get some more info from actual owners.
Thanks so much for the advice Rudy!

Can you send a link to that owner's forum
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post #9101 of 9114 Old 04-18-2016, 01:47 PM
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Thanks so much for the advice Rudy!

Can you send a link to that owner's forum
Here you go:

samsung JU7100
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post #9102 of 9114 Old 04-19-2016, 11:37 AM
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Here you go:

samsung JU7100
Thanks for the info Rudy! Any idea what I could get for my 82838 on Craigslist?
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post #9103 of 9114 Old 04-19-2016, 01:50 PM
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Thanks for the info Rudy! Any idea what I could get for my 82838 on Craigslist?
I've seen them listed for anywhere from $600 to $900.
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post #9104 of 9114 Old 04-19-2016, 07:48 PM
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I've seen them listed for anywhere from $600 to $900.
That's great to hear, becuz I'll be selling mine once I get the P75. I thought I wouldn't even be able sell it.

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post #9105 of 9114 Old 04-20-2016, 04:56 AM
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That's great to hear, becuz I'll be selling mine once I get the P75. I thought I wouldn't even be able sell it.
Keep in mind that listed doesn't always mean sold for that price... When I upgraded to my 82838, I listed my 65835 and ended up getting only a few hundred bucks for it. You'll definitely be able to get rid of it, but you may have to more or less give it away.
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post #9106 of 9114 Old 04-20-2016, 08:16 PM
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Keep in mind that listed doesn't always mean sold for that price... When I upgraded to my 82838, I listed my 65835 and ended up getting only a few hundred bucks for it. You'll definitely be able to get rid of it, but you may have to more or less give it away.
I figured as much. I gave my 65" Mitsu to my sister when I upgrade to my 82838. If I can't get at least $200 for it, then I'll just give it to my sister again.

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post #9107 of 9114 Old 05-26-2016, 10:44 AM
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My update

Anyone, following my issue here was the outcome this info might help someone else down the line..

Well, I ordered a new formatter board from shop jimmy, figured I might as well go with a new one $80.00. Once it arrived I saw what my problem was, my original board the DLP chip would not seat correctly when I turned the screw to the locked position on the old board no matter what I did and there were no bent pins.

I had noticed looking at the zero point screw on the DLP socket the Tech who originally came out to replace the chip also had a problem with the screw locking into place because there were like scratch marks on the zero point screw. I never intentionally wanted to unseat the DLP chip to start with it just fell out when i first went to clean and no matter what I did would not lock back into place. So there was definitely some sort of problem to begin with and I'm guessing the DLP repair tech knew about it.

The new formatter board I received from shop jimmy was the same part number but had a different zero point screw on the socket, one that was black instead of silver and about 25 perfect larger. So maybe there was a known problem that was redesigned. My DLP chip fell right in and actually "Locked" without issue and that was basically that. TV Fixed, geometry for whatever reason also looking a lot better.

So anyways, I'll also post this under this model TV in case this info should help anyone else. I seriously suggest anyway hold off on doing any real light engine lens cleaning until we have specific guide up for this model as the light engine is put together very differently then earlier models. I only suggested cleaning the screens inside screens with clean air (Not from a can). That has made a major difference in picture quality twice for me now.

Its funny because for the time being I had placed a 65 inch LCD Vizio with 32 light zones I bought cheap 2 years ago that is mainly for my dad to watch the news on where my Mits had been during the repair. There was no comparison between the TVs. The 7 year old Mits completely blew this LCD away, the blacks on the DLP were inky black and no light bleed on the sides. The white haloing/blooming on my Mits compared to my LCD blooming around whites made me realize it was all in my had...=) Now that LCD has major haloing. One place I did not clean was the color wheel, which seemed to be pretty air tight, so I don't imagine there is much dust getting in there with this model.

Well, I'm back to waiting for that OLED 75 inch >=)
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post #9108 of 9114 Old 09-06-2016, 11:35 AM
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My 73738 has started to have problems shutting off (not every time but perhaps after being on a while) such the screen is black, but the on light is still on and the fan is still on. Pressing the power button doesn't make a difference at that point. When this happens, I manually unplug the power, turn on the TV, then shut it off (so that it continues to run the fan for a little while after turning off). Has anyone had an issue like this? Any suggestions? I've not yet opened up the TV to do any cleaning/maintenance.
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post #9109 of 9114 Old 09-06-2016, 08:34 PM
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My 73738 has started to have problems shutting off (not every time but perhaps after being on a while) such the screen is black, but the on light is still on and the fan is still on. Pressing the power button doesn't make a difference at that point. When this happens, I manually unplug the power, turn on the TV, then shut it off (so that it continues to run the fan for a little while after turning off). Has anyone had an issue like this? Any suggestions? I've not yet opened up the TV to do any cleaning/maintenance.
Not sure, but the service manual may point you in the right direction.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5H...w?usp=drivesdk

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post #9110 of 9114 Old 10-02-2016, 11:39 AM
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Audio Geek,
I may be having something similar on my WD-82738. The TV functions normally until I go to power it off. When I power down via power button on remote, I do not hear any relay clicks and initially the green power light turns off for about a minute. Then I get a slow green blink for maybe a minute, then the power light turns off again. About 5-6 minutes later I hear A couple quick relay clicks, and see the power light is now a fast blink. It'll do the fast blink for about 30-35 seconds and then turn off again. It'll sit for about 5-6 minutes, then I'll hear the clicks, fast flash for 30ish seconds, and then power light goes again, and repeat and repeat and repeat. The main screen is dark during all of this...if it wasn't for the flashing lights and relay clicking, you'd think the TV was "off."

So now when I power down, I wait a bit for the fans to do some cooling, and then completely unplug the TV. I have tried various software/menu resets, including the service level re-initialize with no success. I also gave it a good cleaning and inspection. (I did not get into the center area heat wheel / light engine area, but all other circuit boards were removed/cleaned/inspected). No major circuit board components were obviously damaged, although a couple surface mount components did look like they had gotten hot, unknown if damaged. I was not able to get the firmware upgrade to take via USB, I'm still at 12.07. Perhaps the "resetting" problem every 5 minutes was causing a problem.

To eliminate some other variables, I even tried removing all the A/V inputs to the TV and retesting...no difference. Although I noticed the TV seems to think there is something plugged into Input 1, even though there is nothing plugged in.

I went back several years on this thread but did not find anything similar. There may be some other similar issues out on the web, but difficult to sift through all the noise. Some people seem to incorrectly lump their newer generation product issues into the older blinking green light of death.

If anyone out there has any ideas, I'm all ears. I have a piece of paper that says I have a degree in electrical engineering, so I'm plenty capable of troubleshooting I just need a kick in the right direction.
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post #9111 of 9114 Old 10-02-2016, 05:30 PM
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Audio Geek,
I may be having something similar on my WD-82738. The TV functions normally until I go to power it off. When I power down via power button on remote, I do not hear any relay clicks and initially the green power light turns off for about a minute. Then I get a slow green blink for maybe a minute, then the power light turns off again. About 5-6 minutes later I hear A couple quick relay clicks, and see the power light is now a fast blink. It'll do the fast blink for about 30-35 seconds and then turn off again. It'll sit for about 5-6 minutes, then I'll hear the clicks, fast flash for 30ish seconds, and then power light goes again, and repeat and repeat and repeat. The main screen is dark during all of this...if it wasn't for the flashing lights and relay clicking, you'd think the TV was "off."

So now when I power down, I wait a bit for the fans to do some cooling, and then completely unplug the TV. I have tried various software/menu resets, including the service level re-initialize with no success. I also gave it a good cleaning and inspection. (I did not get into the center area heat wheel / light engine area, but all other circuit boards were removed/cleaned/inspected). No major circuit board components were obviously damaged, although a couple surface mount components did look like they had gotten hot, unknown if damaged. I was not able to get the firmware upgrade to take via USB, I'm still at 12.07. Perhaps the "resetting" problem every 5 minutes was causing a problem.

To eliminate some other variables, I even tried removing all the A/V inputs to the TV and retesting...no difference. Although I noticed the TV seems to think there is something plugged into Input 1, even though there is nothing plugged in.

I went back several years on this thread but did not find anything similar. There may be some other similar issues out on the web, but difficult to sift through all the noise. Some people seem to incorrectly lump their newer generation product issues into the older blinking green light of death.

If anyone out there has any ideas, I'm all ears. I have a piece of paper that says I have a degree in electrical engineering, so I'm plenty capable of troubleshooting I just need a kick in the right direction.
Does yours behave that way consistently? Mine only acts up if the TV has been on a long time (like five hours), otherwise the shutdown behaves normally. My guess is that it's heat related. I do get the fast blink sometimes but it's usually on trying to turn on (which alarmed me at first but when that happens I just wait and try again later).

My firmware is at 012.08. I don't recall what the difference was. You could try seeing if the upgrading over the network works through I wouldn't be surprised if they since turned off the servers.
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post #9112 of 9114 Old 10-03-2016, 09:03 PM
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Audio Geek,
Mine appears to do it 100% of the time...even if left unplugged overnight, turned on briefly in AM, then turned off...issue still presents itself.

The issue came up all at once, not something that gradually got worse.

Although heat in some form could be the culprit, as it is common for our TV to be on for long extended periods of time. For me, it may come down to what component did heat cause to fail prematurely.
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post #9113 of 9114 Old 10-31-2016, 01:56 PM
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TV did something weird this weekend. Went to turn the TV on first thing in the morning and the picture was Black and White no color. I went to the TV's menu to make sure it wasn't the source that was putting out the wrong color. Nope menu was Black and White as well. I turned the TV off and turned it back on and everything was back to normal. I don't think this would be a color wheel thing since the picture was fine minus the color. Any other ideas? Anything I should be concerned about?

PSN ID: Onedropshot
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post #9114 of 9114 Old Today, 07:07 AM
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Just sharing my experience with my latest bulb replacement, as a pay-it-forward gesture. Six months ago I installed an Osram-Sylvania #69788 (https://www.osram-americas.com/en-us...ion-Lamps.aspx) into the original Mits bulb housing. Before buying it, I went down the rabbit hole to validate it was "the chosen one." ;o) After six months (~2600 hours), edge-to-edge brightness uniformity is stellar.
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