2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 8811 Old 09-09-2010, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shumi_9 View Post

My WD73-838 manufacured in July 2010 and owened for less than a month just died! Huge POP and the rest is history. Bulb seems ok.

Shumi-
I'm sorry to hear about your loss - dealing with failed electronics is such a pain. A pop could mean just about anything failing - might be the power supply since the bulb seems OK to you. The good news is that it happened so soon after you bought it. You should get a replacement fairly easily, but that doesn't make the process any more fun.
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post #902 of 8811 Old 09-09-2010, 12:57 PM
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This stuff happens with electronics all the time. We bought a Gateway i3 minitower a few months ago, brought it home, plugged in, there was a huge pop and then nothing. I don't think it was plugged in 15 seconds. We boxed it up and took it back for anohter one.

That one worked fine, well except the optical drive sounded like a 747 on the runway during boot. A few weeks later the drive died. I just picked up a blue ray drive I had a round here and put it the Gateway. Threw the drive from the Gateway away.

How do I feel about Gateway? It is no big deal, this is the way it is. If you have multiple light engine failures overtime or out of warranty repairs on your DLP that might mean something but either get your set swapped out or get warranty service. Having something break is straightforward. Having some problem that you can't explain to customer service or they are not prepared to do anything about that will make you mad. A simple break, and a simple break fix under warranty, millions of those events occur in the US everyday on consumer electronics.

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post #903 of 8811 Old 09-09-2010, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyrax View Post

Shumi-
I'm sorry to hear about your loss - dealing with failed electronics is such a pain. A pop could mean just about anything failing - might be the power supply since the bulb seems OK to you. The good news is that it happened so soon after you bought it. You should get a replacement fairly easily, but that doesn't make the process any more fun.

It is definatly not the bulb...does not even power up. UE is replacing it with a new unit tomorrow, nice of them indeed. We will see how it goes.
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post #904 of 8811 Old 09-09-2010, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jiujitsumaniac View Post

I just received the 65838: My cable box is set to 1080i (Scientific Atlanta box with Comcast digital service) - the delay is extreme. Delay is when switching between any HD channels or between menu and channel. I would really like to figure out how to minimize/eliminate this - the delay is so long I am thinking of returning the TV - it makes channel surfing painful.

I had the same issue you will find reference to it earlier in this thread. I replaced a Mits HiDef older model with a 82838. Run into the same delay. Especially noticed it when changing channels or when brining up the GUIDE. My provider is Cox cable and after three visits by their techs, they replaced the cable box and I noticed a HUGH improvement (through not an 100% improvement it is an accepatable solution). The Cable box was replaced with a Scientific Alanta 8240HDC. You have two options either use component cables with your current cable box or have them replace it with a box that better supports HDMI cable connections. The 8240HDC supports HDMI connections much better. Cable companies need to get on board and supply us with equipment that supports the latest specs, I.e HDMI high speed connections 3-D is the future and they need to offer better support. Hopefully, the newer 8246HDC box due out later this year will offer, even better improvements in speed when changing channels.

Will also note that I called Mitsubishi Customer Service twice. They said the problem was with the service provider (cable provider). I was able to have Mitsubishi send out a service tech for a different issue and he also confirmed that it was not the Mitsubishi82838 problem.
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post #905 of 8811 Old 09-09-2010, 09:20 PM
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I use a Tivo HD in native mode so it is outputting 480i, 720P and 1080i but the TV never sees that as the DVDO Duo denterlaces and send only 1080P to the set. So whatever time is involved is the internal time on the Tivo HD to change channels and no time is spent renogiating at the TV, that is done in the Duo which is very fast at rez changes.

I only use surround sound when the content is worthy, it takes significantly longer for all the handshaking involved when I send audio to my receiver and not my 82837. So the more that has to be negotiated and the more devices negotiating the longer it will take. I think that the boat was missed when the cable companies fought cable card so long. I perosnally I prefer an external device so I can get native resolution content and send it through the best scaler and deinterlacer I can afford despite the added expense and complexity. On the other hand there is something nice about an internal tuner designed for a cable card capable of doing it all.

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post #906 of 8811 Old 09-09-2010, 09:56 PM
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Well, my 82838 arrived today, just 2 days after I ordered it from a local store. What a wonderful experience. They brought it in unboxed and set it up for me. A few notes.

1. It gives that wow factor in size alone. My neighbors (woman) saw it delivered and had to come see it. She immediately said "wow", but said it again after I turned it on to a little "Up" on blu-ray. (kids got an early viewing".

2. My so-called calibration done before delivery was a farce - apparently they do unbox it, tone down some of the settings and make sure it works before delivery, but no true calibration.

3. A BIG thanks to jaseman for posting his settings. The set definitely needs calibration out of the box. His settings improved the picture a lot. However, it's not perfect for my set... It's still off but I can't tell exactly how on the colors. I wish there were more professional settings out there listed so I could average them or something to tweak it and make this work. Any chance looking at the 837 settings would be close enough to help me adjust? Probably need to just pay to get calibrated professionally but none in town.

4. Even though not advertised at the store I bought it from, I unexpectedly got the polk subwoofer deal. Didn't realize it was a manufacturer deal. Bonus!

5. I love this thing! Watching the Saints/Vikings game was unreal, and watched a lot of Transformers 2 and Avatar and it was like being in the theater, though my surround sound helps.

Now to tackle how to most cost effectively get 3D out of it with sound....
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post #907 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltDoc View Post

Well, my 82838 arrived today, just 2 days after I ordered it from a local store. What a wonderful experience. They brought it in unboxed and set it up for me. A few notes.

1. It gives that wow factor in size alone. My neighbors (woman) saw it delivered and had to come see it. She immediately said "wow", but said it again after I turned it on to a little "Up" on blu-ray. (kids got an early viewing".

2. My so-called calibration done before delivery was a farce - apparently they do unbox it, tone down some of the settings and make sure it works before delivery, but no true calibration.

3. A BIG thanks to jaseman for posting his settings. The set definitely needs calibration out of the box. His settings improved the picture a lot. However, it's not perfect for my set... It's still off but I can't tell exactly how on the colors. I wish there were more professional settings out there listed so I could average them or something to tweak it and make this work. Any chance looking at the 837 settings would be close enough to help me adjust? Probably need to just pay to get calibrated professionally but none in town.

4. Even though not advertised at the store I bought it from, I unexpectedly got the polk subwoofer deal. Didn't realize it was a manufacturer deal. Bonus!

5. I love this thing! Watching the Saints/Vikings game was unreal, and watched a lot of Transformers 2 and Avatar and it was like being in the theater, though my surround sound helps.

Now to tackle how to most cost effectively get 3D out of it with sound....

If you run the contrast above 58, the set maybe clipping. That single thing can cause it to appear washed out. Also, the color luminance needs to be set with a meter to get it right, there are people here who don't think that is important, most people who calibrate these sets will disagree. My experience on the Mits sets says it is quite important to get color luminance to be the right level to match white.

For everyone who has an interest in setting up their display in a reasonable way I suggest they obtain a copy of Spears and Munsil Blu-Ray Benchmark. It has the easiest to understand patterns to determine levels and verify that the set is not clipping. In general the black level should probably be about 34 and the contrast about 58. If those levels are too high you will get wash out on the screen. Try to manage your lighting in the room.

Also a back or bias light behind the set for dark viewing will increase the perceived contrast. You do have the lamp on bright right? That may not match up with Jasermans settings but the 82s sets are light limited, so to get more light without clipping set the lamp to bright.

In Spears and Munsil, the clipping screen will have 4 patterns. There is a white, red, green and blue clipping box. Each box is like a Russian doll. It has boxes inside boxes. So Red for example will have 6 I think shades of red, ideally you would want to be able to see each step of color in each of the big color box areas. You will probably not get that while making enough light. You asbolutely want to see all the steps in the white box, and try and get as many steps to show in the color box as possible. In a general sense, projector lamps are red limited. But on the Mits you might find two of the colors display all or most of the sets but one is completely flat without any steps. At the very least try to get all the boxes to show at least two steps.

What is happening when the set clips is it means you are getting the same shade of blue when the content has multiple shades. Blue is just an example. Now these different colors are at the max end of the color brightness range, but this is where your hightlights and sparkle are. Don't turn down contrast until the whole set is dull just to achieve no clipping on the pattern. Blue by the way is the color, the eye is least sensititive to. So loosing a clipping step or two in blue is not as important as in green or red.

The general rule when setting contrast is to go as high as you can without eye strain (not much chance o f getting that bright on the 82), no clipping, especially on white, and no color shift. When you look at the contrast patterns on the Spears and Munsil disk you should be able to make out all the steps and the grey should not shift toward red or blue as it gets brighter.

None of these suggestions are intended to contradict some set of settings you are using that someone else already worked out. They are just a way for you to do a sanity check and make sure your basic levels are right on your individual set using the basic contrast calibration rules. There are a couple of black level patterns on the disc. The pluge pattern is the basic one, once that is set right you should be able to see 17 on the dynamic range low pattern without seeing 16 which should be your background black. You might run a click higher during the day. Do the black first, the work contrast. Each of the pattern screens on Spears and Munsil have a help screen, to get there you use the up direction on the BD player remote.

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post #908 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 12:07 PM
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Recently discovered AV. Thank you for all the wonderful commentary. Still a novice but have learned much reading.

I am about ready to spring for a 73" 2010 Mitsu. I have a few questions if anyone has a moment:

- Is there any PQ difference of not between the 738 and 838 models? I have seen the question on the thread but not many views. Other than PQ, I don't care about the speakers, etc.

- My existing equipment includes a DTV HD receiver that should do 3D, a few year old Yamaha receiver with no HDMI ports, and a fried BluRay I have to replace. Can I set up the DTV, old Yamaha, and new 3D BluRay OR do I have to have a new receiver? With DTV, do I have to have an Adaptor?

- The HDMI 1.4 discussion confuses me. The Mitsu website says these TVs only come with HDMI 1.3 ports. Any clarification would help.

- My BB does not stock the Mitsu's and wants full list price. Will not honor coupons or deal. HHGregg has in stock but wants full list and won't even toss in delivery or recycling. Prefer BB since they will take the huge 65" ancient rear projection device away. Anyone have success getting them to budge?

Thank you.
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post #909 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 01:20 PM
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Were there any issues with the 2009 models?

What's are differences between the 2009 and 2010 models?
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post #910 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teke123 View Post

- The HDMI 1.4 discussion confuses me. The Mitsu website says these TVs only come with HDMI 1.3 ports. Any clarification would help.

I'm not entirely sure about the specs of the TV but it wouldn't surprise me if the TV was only HDMI 1.3. It doesn't need to be 1.4, as it only supports checkerboard 3d. What needs HDMI 1.4 is the 3d Adapter, as it processes the 3d signals and then sends them to the TV as a checkerboard image (which can easily be done over 1.3)

However, the 738 and 838 series are supposed to get an update that removes the requirement for the adapter. In that case, they should be HDMI 1.4, but like I said, I don't know the specs on that.
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post #911 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 02:40 PM
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In general the 2009 sets were quite decent. Some geometry issues, but that is common with DLPs if you don't like what you see when you get one home make them replace it. A few folks seem to believe the C models in the 2009 family had a higher percentage of out of box issues. I suspect those sets because of the distribution process got rougher handling. When I worked for HP, when you had a frequently occuring problem in a model or model family it was called a class issue. From reading a few thousand messages in the 2009 I would say we don't really see any common emerging problems so far. People seem to have some problems with HDMI handshaking with Cable Set Top boxes, but that is common across a lot of brands. You almost never hear of people not getting a Blu-Ray player to synch up. That kind of tells you, the Set Top Boxes suck. I have no issues synching to my devices but I don't connect directly to my 2009. I connect through a video processor which excels at handling a wide diversity of devices smoothly.

The 838 will have a dynamic iris. In theory at least this will produce better blacks and shadow detail. It it a big deal form most folks, not really. The blacks are quite good without the iris, and sometimes an iris is more trouble than it is worth.

Some people will opt for the 838 because it gives you control over color in the preset modes. Most people don't seem to use that capability much. If you are the kind of guy who is likely to calibrate your set it is possible you will use that feature. I do you use those features on my 2009 82837. The most obvious difference is the sound bar. That is probably a love it or hate it deal.

It should really depend on pricing if you are buying an 82" set and the price difference is only a couple hundred dollars I would say get the 838 not 738.. on a 65" if the price difference is $200 then percentage wise it is harder to justify.

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post #912 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 03:05 PM
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I'm expecting delivery of my WD-65838 on Monday and am very excited. I've read through all of the posts on this thread and don't have a clear picture of if I can get a Harmony remote to work well enough with this TV. I am also putting the rest of my components inside cabinets so I either need an IR Extender system or one of the remotes that support RF Wireless compatibility.

So, can someone clearly say if I were to get a Harmony One remote, or a Harmony 1100 Advanced remote, will I be able to get them to work with my system? Should I go with a totally different brand?

If so, it seems like there are a bunch of workarounds to get it to switch to the HDMI2 and HDMI3 sources. What is the best way to get those workarounds.

Thanks!
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post #913 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stable Dave View Post

I was in Paul's on Sunday looking at the 73" Mitsubishi's. I still have the card I wrote the prices down on:

73737-Not in stock in warehouse
72638-$1,499
73738-$1,699

May have been a labor day sale though. Nothing close to that price on Google shoppoing. But I see prices from these guys from time to time that are amazing. Either way you got a great deal. I'm going to get one myself.

Thanks for posting.

After seeing a couple other stories of people ordering the 73737 from Paul's (as still featured on their home page) and getting the 73738 for $1299 + free shipping, I decided to give it a shot as well. According to my invoice they did indeed ship me a 738. Scheduled to be delivered on Tuesday!
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post #914 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 09:50 PM
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Do you have a website or phone number for Pauls.

Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbump View Post

After seeing a couple other stories of people ordering the 73737 from Paul's (as still featured on their home page) and getting the 73738 for $1299 + free shipping, I decided to give it a shot as well. According to my invoice they did indeed ship me a 738. Scheduled to be delivered on Tuesday!

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post #915 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shumi_9 View Post

My WD73-838 manufacured in July 2010 and owened for less than a month just died! Huge POP and the rest is history. Bulb seems ok.

Hey Shumi,
Sorry to hear that. You were one of the first to own this model. Approx how many hours do you think you had on your set ? Any extenuating circumstances ? Like high humidity, high heat or constant running, etc ? Not that any of that should cause it, but I want to know what I should be trying out to see if it happens to mine, before warranty expires. My 65838 TV is in our basement and gets MUCH less use than the main TV in the family room, so I tend to experience problems long after others have. I was one of the people that got this set as a replacement for my older model getting the BGLOD. Obviously I am sensitive to mnfr defect and all my alarms are going off, despite someone saying this is "normal".
So, is Mitsu involved at all with this return or just the store where you bought it ? I hope you are just an isolated case, but we will see.
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post #916 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post

Do you have a website or phone number for Pauls.

Thanks

www.paulstv.com

888-pauls123
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post #917 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 10:36 PM
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbump View Post

www.paulstv.com

888-pauls123

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post #918 of 8811 Old 09-10-2010, 11:00 PM
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Anyone know if Pauls TV charges tax for people in CA????
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post #919 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbump View Post

After seeing a couple other stories of people ordering the 73737 from Paul's (as still featured on their home page) and getting the 73738 for $1299 + free shipping, I decided to give it a shot as well. According to my invoice they did indeed ship me a 738. Scheduled to be delivered on Tuesday!

I had the same experience. Ordered the 73737 and received the 73738 for $1299. I ordered online on Wed at 2PM and it was delivered at 4PM on Thursday. If you are within a certain distance of a local store it appears to be next day delivery. If you order in the store is same day (of course you can't get the deal in store).

BTW-Since they do have locations in CA I would guess they will charge CA tax.
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post #920 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbump View Post

www.paulstv.com

888-pauls123

BTW, I would not mention the $1,299 73738 to a rep on the phone. That would probably kill the deal if it it some kind of website glitch.
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post #921 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 05:42 AM
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i just received a 73 838 yesterday and i LOVE it... it is huge.. i cant imagine the 82...

anyhow i want to thank jaseman for posting his setting... IMO it is a very good starting point... the only down side is its hard to go from out of the box "torch mode" to these tamed down setting... but the picture is definitely a lot better...

i really like the fact that your able to add an external sub... i have an older energy 8" sub sitting around... it really gives the sound a boost, and it can be fully adjusted to your liking.

QUESTIONS/CONCERNS

1)When i use the Auto Sound setup with mic it keeps asking me to reposition and try again. i plugged the mic in the side left audio and positioned it on a camera tripod about 15' away (as long as the cord would reach) i went through the test tones but then it asks to reposition and try again.

2) do i have to worry about "burn in" the wife watches a lot of sports with score banners and tickers.
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post #922 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 06:13 AM
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Should the WD-73638 be added to the tread name?

I just received my set and was not able to find info on this set.

Thanks

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post #923 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 06:26 AM
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@Mparker--Since I just read through all the pages of this thread in the last couple days, this tip from texasrattler was fresh in my mind and may help:

Quote:
Originally Posted by texasrattler View Post

... Just an FYI for people who try and use the mic to auto setup the speakers. The manual tells you to use input 3(hidden on the bottom right hand side at the rear) left audio but if you look at the picture in the manual you will notice it shows R and L but it tells u to use the left as if it were showing you L and R. The TVs actual input 3 is L and R. You HAVE to use the R audio not Left like the manual states in order to get the mic calibration to work for your speakers. People will understand it when you look in the manual, just use the R audio not L.

I don't have specific experience with audio setup on this set, but if that's not it maybe you just need to take measurements at several different positions. I know that using Audyssey calibrations on most AVRs requires measurements at six or more different positions.

And burn-in is not an issue with DLPs.
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post #924 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cali4life3 View Post

Anyone know if Pauls TV charges tax for people in CA????

Of course, it's the law...
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post #925 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 07:49 AM
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sr...

"if so, it seems like there are a bunch of workarounds"

The remote works fine. They aren't "workarounds" per se. You teach the Harmony the right codes to send by putting the MIT remote into direct mode and teaching the commands to the Harmony on-line database. The instructions are in this thread and in the Harmony Remote Thread.

The only thing I've done that you might call a workaround is to take into consideration the time needed when the TV first turns on. What I've done for any activities which use the TV is I put in a pause and then I resend the relevant input command in the activity setup. When the TV is already on all that happens is the TV sets the input again which means I see the Input label in the upper left corner for a second.

That fixes the problem of the TV coming on but not setting itself to the right input the FIRST time I turn the TV on. It has a warm up time frame when first turned on.

E.B. White said, "I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve the world and a desire to enjoy the world. This makes it hard to plan the day."
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post #926 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mparker81 View Post

i just received a 73 838 yesterday and i LOVE it... it is huge.. i cant imagine the 82...

anyhow i want to thank jaseman for posting his setting... IMO it is a very good starting point... the only down side is its hard to go from out of the box "torch mode" to these tamed down setting... but the picture is definitely a lot better...

i really like the fact that your able to add an external sub... i have an older energy 8" sub sitting around... it really gives the sound a boost, and it can be fully adjusted to your liking.

QUESTIONS/CONCERNS

1)When i use the Auto Sound setup with mic it keeps asking me to reposition and try again. i plugged the mic in the side left audio and positioned it on a camera tripod about 15' away (as long as the cord would reach) i went through the test tones but then it asks to reposition and try again.

2) do i have to worry about "burn in" the wife watches a lot of sports with score banners and tickers.

Manual is wrong...plug the mike on the red right port.
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post #927 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 02:18 PM
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The Mitsubishi WD-82738 82-Inch 1080p 3D DLP HDTV is available for $2285.77 with Free Shipping & No sales tax at electronics-expo.com

http://www.electronics-expo.com/make...WD82738/1.html

Add the Tv to your cart and use coupon code LS0730 for the $1513.23 discount.
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post #928 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koy View Post

Should the WD-73638 be added to the tread name?

I just received my set and was not able to find info on this set.

Thanks

Did you order yours through Tiger??? That is where i ordered my 73737 and they are sending me the 73638. I cant find any info on it. I called Tiger and complained just in case i did not like the tv, i got them to agree that i can try the TV out and if i dont like it within 30 days i can send the tv back and get my money back. And they will pay for the shipping back. I get my TV on Monday
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post #929 of 8811 Old 09-11-2010, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawsfire View Post

The Mitsubishi WD-82738 82-Inch 1080p 3D DLP HDTV is available for $2285.77 with Free Shipping & No sales tax at electronics-expo.com

http://www.electronics-expo.com/make...WD82738/1.html

Add the Tv to your cart and use coupon code LS0730 for the $1513.23 discount.

did it work for you to get the tv shipped? because i just tried to but the tv and it wouldnt let me select ship just store pick up. the 838 it lets me ship, but i dont wanna pay almost 2900 for the 82838 since id rather ust get the 82738. i'm going to call them tomorrow or monday. any idea how long this coupon code is good for?
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post #930 of 8811 Old 09-12-2010, 12:47 AM
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I've been playing with my Harmony remote and found some interesting stuff. If I tell the harmony that I have a 60737 vs a 60738, I can access the discrete codes for ALL of the HDMI inputs. But I just tried setting up an "Activity" and I can't make use of them that way...which is what I need. But, these may be helpful for others.

I have four things plugged into the TV, so I can only accurately map four of the inputs. There are others that do call on different component inputs, but someone else will need to map those if they want.

The 737 codes translate to the 738 as follows:

-The 737's "InputComponent3" is HDMI3 on the 738
-"InputHDMI1" = HDMI1
-"InputHDMI2" = Nothing on the 738
-"InputHDMI3" = Nothing on the 738
-"InputHDMI4" = A screen that says "HDMI4"...even though there's only 3 HDMI inputs lol
-"InputVideo1" = Component 1
-"InputVideo5" = HDMI2
So, it's in there...it's just not in a place I can make use of - I'm not aware of a way to port codes from one model TV to another in the Harmony software.

I hope this hasn't already been covered.
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