2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 8811 Old 07-12-2010, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by noneofyr View Post

Does anyone have any idea when the wd-73838 is going to ship. Mitsubishi is upgrading my old 73 inch due the the light engine issue. My local store has pre-ordered the tv for me but have no idea when it will arrive.


Mid to Late July
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post #92 of 8811 Old 07-12-2010, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noneofyr View Post

Does anyone have any idea when the wd-73838 is going to ship. Mitsubishi is upgrading my old 73 inch due the the light engine issue. My local store has pre-ordered the tv for me but have no idea when it will arrive.

We have this set in our Magnolia section. This thing is HUGH. One thing I tend to notice about DLP. Was everything looked like it was natural. Nothing was over done with extra effects and what not. I'm sure if we blacked out the room it'd look even better. Also, went a saw a movie last night. Was wondering. Do HOME DLP sets have the ability to look like a movie theater? If so, I think I'm going to go ahead and pull the trigger on the 73738. I like the idea of having a home movies theater.
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post #93 of 8811 Old 07-12-2010, 10:42 AM
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Gaming and DLP (from a 73736 2008 owner

I am thinking of going to 82" for even more immersive (73" at 10 feet is great - 82 would be THX like)

There is no lag. I play MW2 online, Halo Reach beta (ranked 12,000 by the end , Battlefield, and may many others The most being Halo3.

Not an issue.

I think my Rockband was like 50ms or something stupid and small.

Also works great with ATI 5870/i7->HDMI for 1920x1080p 8x AA Battlefield Bad Company 2 STunning in DX11.
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post #94 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjchmura View Post

Gaming and DLP (from a 73736 2008 owner

I am thinking of going to 82" for even more immersive (73" at 10 feet is great - 82 would be THX like)

There is no lag. I play MW2 online, Halo Reach beta (ranked 12,000 by the end , Battlefield, and may many others The most being Halo3.

Not an issue.

I think my Rockband was like 50ms or something stupid and small.

Also works great with ATI 5870/i7->HDMI for 1920x1080p 8x AA Battlefield Bad Company 2 STunning in DX11.

I need to get a new video card to try BC2 off the PC onto my 73738 I've been dragging my feet on the video card because there hasn't really been anything really really good at the $200 price point but the new Nvidia cards looked like they hit the spot.
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post #95 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 10:38 AM
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I like the ATI 5770 at that point... you get
DX11
Great frame rate
Low Power
HDMI AUDIO 7.1+Bitstreaming

As far as I know getting the new NVIDIA cards to seeemlessley do 7.1 is really hard.
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post #96 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 02:45 PM
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Has anyone done any input lag tests on the 60738?
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post #97 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

So why do people buy these sets? I can only imagine the PQ to be kinda crappy since you get such a huge set for dirt cheap. I was considering one of these sets. But the fact that its so cheap for such a big set just pretty much scares me.

You really have to see one that is adjusted. I have the 82" 82837. The picture is very good. I have my Xbox360, PS3, and HD Directv DVR connected to the Tv. I was worried about a bad picture because of the size but, I was wrong. I just got Avatar on Blu-ray and it was breathtaking with no weird image shifts like some LCDs. Everyone comment on the PQ when I have movie night. All my games look great. But, as alway it depends on the source.
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post #98 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 04:14 PM
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Well everything plugged in this bad boy would be all blu-ray content. Is use my ps3 and play some games. I'm just unsure of the input lag on this set. As well as always changing a light bulb.
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post #99 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Well everything plugged in this bad boy would be all blu-ray content. Is use my ps3 and play some games. I'm just unsure of the input lag on this set. As well as always changing a light bulb.

LOL, how many post's by mit's owners is it going to take to bash into your skull that lag isn't an issue.
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post #100 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 05:39 PM
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I am thinking of getting the new Mitsubishi 82" 838 series. I've done my research on both the 838 vs the 837 models. I like the whole sound bar setup. Which is the main difference. Not really into the whole 3D but if I decide to go down that road, I would not need the adapter for the 838 since there is suppose to be a firmware update this summer?? The 837 will need the adapter know matter what.

What does everyone think, go for the 82838 or the 82837?
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post #101 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 06:27 PM
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How are the Mitsu DLP's for basic TV watching and sports? I won't be watching much movies. I just watch regular HD TV and basketball/football. With the Heat looking great for next year and the Phins (hopefully) looking better, I want to upgrade my old set before September.

All the real technical talk of how accurate 3d Blue ray animated movies look, really doesn't relate to my daily use for the TV. The quality and clarity of the picture for sports is very important. Will i regret DLP vs. LED LCD or plasma? I'm looking to get 73" or 82" because my viewing distance is about 15 - 18 feet. I just feel like 65" (the biggest reasonably priced plasma i can find) might be just a bit too small.

One other question not picture related is why there is such a dramatic price difference from 73" to 82". I can find c9 model 73" for 1200 and open box even cheaper but haven't seen 82" under 2600. Why no deals on 82"?

Thanks in advance for any comments.
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post #102 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jaamz777 View Post

LOL, how many post's by mit's owners is it going to take to bash into your skull that lag isn't an issue.

Its bit of a big deal to me. And no one has done actual test. Not rock band. But real test. I'm so close to buying on of these it isn't even funny. But I need some real results. Like my TV. UN55B8500. Tons of people say they don't notice the lag. I sure as hell do though lol.
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post #103 of 8811 Old 07-13-2010, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caneaddict View Post


One other question not picture related is why there is such a dramatic price difference from 73" to 82". I can find c9 model 73" for 1200 and open box even cheaper but haven't seen 82" under 2600. Why no deals on 82"?

Thanks in advance for any comments.

In my opinion if you are going to be watching alot sports in a bright lit room, opt for the 73" If you mostly watch in a darkened room the 82" is great. I think the reason you dont find the 82" discounted so much is nobody carries a lot of them in stock. If somebody really wants an 82" they typically want to buy them at brick and mortar. Just too big a set to ship around. I paid ~ $2600 for my 82837 from Best Buy but it was a special situation. It was actually 2999 but I got quadruple reward points as it turned out and I got a free calibration. I also got 36 month free interest. It all depends, don't expect the 2010 82838 for $2600 anytime soon. That set has higher content than the 2009 and 3D on Mits sets is going to actually be a reality now, not just a theorectical capability at some distant point in the future. Maybe down the road you will see some bundles with the 3D starter kit. That is an easy way for Mits to help the dealer and consumer justify the higher ticket.

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post #104 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

In my opinion if you are going to be watching alot sports in a bright lit room, opt for the 73" If you mostly watch in a darkened room the 82" is great. I think the reason you dont find the 82" discounted so much is nobody carries a lot of them in stock. If somebody really wants an 82" they typically want to buy them at brick and mortar. Just too big a set to ship around. I paid ~ $2600 for my 82837 from Best Buy but it was a special situation. It was actually 2999 but I got quadruple reward points as it turned out and I got a free calibration. I also got 36 month free interest. It all depends, don't expect the 2010 82838 for $2600 anytime soon. That set has higher content than the 2009 and 3D on Mits sets is going to actually be a reality now, not just a theorectical capability at some distant point in the future. Maybe down the road you will see some bundles with the 3D starter kit. That is an easy way for Mits to help the dealer and consumer justify the higher ticket.

thank you for the reply, it's very helpful. just curious why do you say the 73" would be better than the 82" in a bright room?
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post #105 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by caneaddict View Post

thank you for the reply, it's very helpful. just curious why do you say the 73" would be better than the 82" in a bright room?

Because they use the same lamp in the 73" and the 82". Some say the 72" is a bit brighter. I don't have a problem in my bright room with my 82".
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post #106 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JukeBox360 View Post

Its bit of a big deal to me. And no one has done actual test. Not rock band. But real test. I'm so close to buying on of these it isn't even funny. But I need some real results. Like my TV. UN55B8500. Tons of people say they don't notice the lag. I sure as hell do though lol.

Again

1. DLP tech - why would you think there would be lag? Does not make sense
2. I have the 2008 73" 73736. My handle on XBOX live is DocACE911, and on Steam, and on PSN
3. Clearly my Halo 3 ranking is fine
4. BFBC2 is stunning . I do not feel a lag
5. I have a Samsung LN52650 from last year in my bedroom. I can CLEARLY feel a lag UNLESS I select game mode which messes up colors
6. Driving games - like split second - I am doing well at.

All in all I get more annoyed at my comcast on 7pm having 100ms pings at times than my TV.

I would also worry ALOT about the LED unless you do the "game mode". Even then - look at the Rockband calibration (this is real btw). They are almost 90ms with GAME MODE.

sjc
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post #107 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by caneaddict View Post

thank you for the reply, it's very helpful. just curious why do you say the 73" would be better than the 82" in a bright room?

Because the 82837 will only make 25 ft lamberts with the lamp on bright and still meet all the calibration targets, even at that it is clipping green. The non-iris model might be brighter. Based on the calibration charts I have seen you can get 35 ft lambets out a 73" and meet your other targets. I love my 82837 but it is under illuminated.

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post #108 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Bryan J. Lee View Post

Because they use the same lamp in the 73" and the 82". Some say the 72" is a bit brighter. I don't have a problem in my bright room with my 82".

More than a bit... some 30 percent. Sure you can crank the light up all the way on an 82" but it will stop making accurate color. None of these sets make accurate color out of the box. If you aren't used to accurate color you might not care.

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post #109 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjchmura View Post


Again

1. DLP tech - why would you think there would be lag? Does not make sense
2. I have the 2008 73" 73736. My handle on XBOX live is DocACE911, and on Steam, and on PSN
3. Clearly my Halo 3 ranking is fine
4. BFBC2 is stunning . I do not feel a lag
5. I have a Samsung LN52650 from last year in my bedroom. I can CLEARLY feel a lag UNLESS I select game mode which messes up colors
6. Driving games - like split second - I am doing well at.

All in all I get more annoyed at my comcast on 7pm having 100ms pings at times than my TV.

I would also worry ALOT about the LED unless you do the "game mode". Even then - look at the Rockband calibration (this is real btw). They are almost 90ms with GAME MODE.

sjc

Alright. Well. I went ahead and just ordered it. I really hope i like it lol. Movie nights will be fun. Let's just hope this is great for gaming. Should I get a warrenty?
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post #110 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 11:43 AM
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Man...all this talk of 82" screens!!! I currently own a 61" Samsung HLN617W that is now almost 6 years old. 720p at that. One bulb and color wheel replacement on an extended warranty...the first bulb was fine but was replaced with the color wheel. Still going strong in my family/living room. High def pictures from cable look really good...yes the black levels are dark gray!

I now have a dedicated theater room...20' by 11' and I have been looking for the biggest LED/LCD full array I can find and the biggest is only 55". I cannot go smaller than what I have been watching for 6 years now!

I was convinced that LCD was what I wanted...now I see this 82" Home Theater screen. Do not want a projector. So then, for all those on this thread that actually own the 82" model. Is the picture at least as good as my 61" DLP? I do not play games so I don't care about lag time. My room has only one window that will be darkened all the time. Should I buy this thing instead of one of the fancy LED edge lit 65" beasts from Samsung? Thanks!

Better to want what you don't have, than to have what you don't want!

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post #111 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 12:08 PM
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On the 82" Mits-838 series...how exactly does the center input work? I imagine you would need a receiver that has a center channel out the same connector type as a sub out??? Never saw one of those. Or does it use a banana plug from the center channel SPEAKER out's?

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post #112 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 01:46 PM
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Does the xx638 models need the 3D adapter or it that build into these models?
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post #113 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 01:51 PM
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Needs the adapter
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post #114 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 02:33 PM
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I bought the original 65" Mitsubishi DLP nine years ago for $14,200. Three years ago bought 50" Samsung DLP for $1,000. The picture was so much better that I gave away the 65" and bought 73" Mitsubishi. The Mitsubishi picture was great so I bought the 82" last year and put the 73" in the bedroom. I have my PC, Xbox360, PS3 and cable hooked up to it. I keep comparing my set to other displays and still feel the DLP is better. A large screen for 3D is the only way to go.
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post #115 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 05:26 PM
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Yeah. Problem is bulk and always having to replace a dang bulb.
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post #116 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 05:57 PM
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Went to Best Buy...they had a 73738 and an 82738 both on display running in high def..(of course)...I laid down the card, and bought the 82". Played for about 15 minutes with the remote and the various settings. Beeeeutiful picture...BIG too! This is my second DLP (Samsung HLN617W going strong) and for the money VS the size DLP cannot be beat! There were many LCD's all around the DLP's and for sure they were brighter when viewing from off axis, but when you got yourself within the normal viewing angle, that I will always use, the picture quality was every bit as good. Yes the LCD's can make the picture look stunning...in the stores...but the truth is that for many of us on this forum, we would end up toning the image down to normal levels, which when done will look almost exactly like the VERY BIG, 82 inches of Theater Room GLORIOUS DLP!!!!

Go ahead, you know you want one!

Better to want what you don't have, than to have what you don't want!

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post #117 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 07:02 PM
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I used to have a Toshiba TN61x81. I've got to say that the default color scheme on it was far superior to this new Mitsu 60738. In fact, I've gotta say, that the default settings on this tv are piss-poor. That being said, if you adjust the settings, you can get it to look pretty darn nice.

Basically, my biggest complaint is the tint. I'm used to not having to adjust that setting. Here are my settings:
Picture Mode: Bright
Contrast: 63
Brightness: 44
Color: 26
Tint: 23
Sharpness: 24
Color Temperature: High
Video Noise: Medium (or Low)
EdgeEnhance: On
Deepfield Imager: On

It's hard to get the color right, when the tint is so far off. Now, this picture is pretty darn nice.

Picture Mode: Brilliant - I like it, just to have to lower the color to compensate. By default, Brilliant and Bright are waaaayyy toooo green. I prefer them to natural and advanced.

Natural: Color Temperature is low by default. White is red. Luckily, you can adjust this.

Advanced: Color Temperature is low. You can't adjust it. This mode sucks. With even tint, I was trying to adjust the colors, to normalize this. 1000 blue, 800 red, 600 green. I think it would have looked nice, if it weren't for the low color temperature, where white is red. I would try again, now that I've got the tint right, but I see no point, as I can't fix the Color Temp.
*****
Now that this tv is adjusted, I love it.
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post #118 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casket View Post

I used to have a Toshiba TN61x81. I've got to say that the default color scheme on it was far superior to this new Mitsu 60738. In fact, I've gotta say, that the default settings on this tv are piss-poor. That being said, if you adjust the settings, you can get it to look pretty darn nice.

Basically, my biggest complaint is the tint. I'm used to not having to adjust that setting. Here are my settings:
Picture Mode: Bright
Contrast: 63
Brightness: 44
Color: 26
Tint: 23
Sharpness: 24
Color Temperature: High
Video Noise: Medium (or Low)
EdgeEnhance: On
Deepfield Imager: On

It's hard to get the color right, when the tint is so far off. Now, this picture is pretty darn nice.

Picture Mode: Brilliant - I like it, just to have to lower the color to compensate. By default, Brilliant and Bright are waaaayyy toooo green. I prefer them to natural and advanced.

Natural: Color Temperature is low by default. White is red. Luckily, you can adjust this.

Advanced: Color Temperature is low. You can't adjust it. This mode sucks. With even tint, I was trying to adjust the colors, to normalize this. 1000 blue, 800 red, 600 green. I think it would have looked nice, if it weren't for the low color temperature, where white is red. I would try again, now that I've got the tint right, but I see no point, as I can't fix the Color Temp.
*****
Now that this tv is adjusted, I love it.

Color temp should be set to low and then calibrated, but you need a meter. There is no problem getting the color temp to 6500 on a 2009 it should be identical on a 2010. Advanced mode makes grayscale very straight forward if you understand what you are doing and have a meter. It is the color controls in Advanced mode that are kind of frustrating, color temp is very straightforward, again you need a meter.

In any case you have it set where you feel good about it.

Out of the box, low color temp is too low, and high is too high. If you were doing a proper calibration you would have nothing whatever to do with Brilliant or Bright... they are crazy off. Natural or advanced. But you need a meter and an idea of what you are doing.

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post #119 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 11:02 PM
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What are the differences between the 738/838?
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post #120 of 8811 Old 07-14-2010, 11:24 PM
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Sound, Perfect tint and dark detailer. Do I know how big of a difference this would make in these sets? Nope.
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