2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 14 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #391 of 1377 Old 12-22-2010, 05:55 AM
Member
 
sharpsuxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'll try going through a full calibration on brilliant and bright and see if I can get the colors to meet broadcast reference standards with the calibration settings available. We'll see how things turn out maybe I'll post some A,B,C screen shots.
sharpsuxx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #392 of 1377 Old 12-22-2010, 05:47 PM
Senior Member
 
steve68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 460
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just got this TV today. It was a warranty replacement for my now dead HP MD5880N. RIP

The HDNet test pattern wont be on until Jan 1st but my settings so far for normal TV watching are as follows:

HDMI input
Natural
Brightness: 42
Contrast: 59
Color: 73
Tint: 11
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temp: High

I have some color filter strips that I'll use when the test pattern is recorded on my DVR. Also for my Direct TV I found 780P to look MUCH better than 1080i on this TV.

I also have a calibration DVD but I don't have a DVD player connected to the TV at the moment so that will have to wait and the settings should be different from a different source.
steve68 is offline  
post #393 of 1377 Old 12-23-2010, 08:13 AM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
It appears the Tint calibration procedures are different for this set for some reason. Also, the test pattern you use to calibrate for Tint make a difference as well. I calibrated using both AVSHD 709, which is free to download, and Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up. The AVSHD 709 color bar pattern calibration produced Tint values where the Cyan color wasn't visually accurate. The Sound & Vision color bar pattern calibration produced Tint values where Cyan was visually accurate. There are SMPTE color bars that you can download from Wikipedia for free but I haven't tried those yet.

Step 1 - Set all picture modes to the following:
  • Brightness: 50
  • Contrast: 100
  • Color: 100
  • Tint: 0
  • Sharpness: 0
  • Video Noise: Off
  • Color Temperature: High

Step 2 - Calibrate Tint:
  • Display color bar test pattern.
  • Wear blue glasses or put film strip in front of your eyes.
  • Adjust tint until the cyan and magenta colors look the same.
  • Remove blue glasses or film strip from eyes.
  • If need be, adjust Tint so cyan looks accurate or adjust to make skin tones more neutral or slightly warm.

Here are the Sound & Vision calibration Results:
Brilliant Tint: 5
Bright Tint: -9
Natural Tint: 6 (but added +2 to get visually accurate, so it's 8 after calibration)

Here are the AVSHD 709 calibration Results:
Brilliant Tint: 2
Bright Tint: -15
Natural Tint: 3

I also made adjustments for the High Color Temperature using my HTPC. Using a Blue Gamma value of .90 seems to eliminate most of the coolness/blueness. Actually .87 or .88 looked to produce a more neutral white but it's so hard to tell I decided to keep it a tad cooler. I can tell you one thing, the low settings on the C10/638 sets do not produce a D65 reference. The manual doesn't even state that. Oddly enough, the manual for the 738/838 series states that the low color temperature setting is about 6500K. But they use a different video processor so that's probably why.

I'm currently using the Sound & Vision Tint settings. My other settings from page 13 are left untouched except for the contrast in the Natural mode. I find a contrast value of 85 vs. 80 to give a slightly brighter image. After I view my set with these settings for a few days I'll update my calibration settings on page 13.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #394 of 1377 Old 12-23-2010, 09:12 AM
Member
 
pittpa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm looking at the wd-60c10. I am wondering how the picture on these DLP sets is with standard definition Dish Network channels. I did a search and only found reference to some dissatisfaction with SD cable signals. Thanks.
Dell sent me a 15% coupon so I am revisiting this set. I was out of town and missed the sale after Thanksgiving, much to my dismay.
pittpa is offline  
post #395 of 1377 Old 12-23-2010, 09:20 AM
Newbie
 
Big Wheezy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pittpa View Post

I'm looking at the wd-60c10. I am wondering how the picture on these DLP sets is with standard definition Dish Network channels. I did a search and only found reference to some dissatisfaction with SD cable signals. Thanks.
Dell sent me a 15% coupon so I am revisiting this set. I was out of town and missed the sale after Thanksgiving, much to my dismay.

the upconverter in the 638/c10s seems to be pretty poor, I wasn't very pleased with the quality of SD signals on the set... but 1080i HD cable looks great
Big Wheezy is offline  
post #396 of 1377 Old 12-23-2010, 09:43 AM
Member
 
Steelhorse2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

I finally figured out the best values/settings for my 65C10. Please note the various picture modes and when to use them.

Brilliant - (TV Mode) Use for normal TV and 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies
Brightness: 42 (42 is NTSC black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 90
Color: 46 (46 is NTSC color reference (max), change to 38 for 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies)
Tint: 10
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Bright - (Sports Mode) Use for sports
Brightness: 42 (42 is NTSC black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 90
Color: 38 (Color level might need to be adjusted +/-2 ticks depending on the sporting event)
Tint: -6 (Tint level might need to be adjust depending on the sporting event)
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Natural - (Film Mode) Use for DVD/Blu-ray movies (non-3D animated)
Brightness: 51 (51 is Film black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 80
Color: 62-70 (62 is Film color reference, going higher than 70 can cause color push)
Tint: 15
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

These settings and using them for the correct video content is in my opinion perfect. What ever you do, DO NOT CHANGE the Brightness values given above. This will screw the colors up in a major way. If you must increase it, you shouldn't use more than 2-4 ticks higher but I can't even recommend you do that since it comes at a cost of screwing up the colors/saturation. If you do increase the Brightness then don't exceed 50 and also reduce the Color a bit, probably 2-6 ticks lower (example: Brightness 48 and Color 40 for the Brilliant mode is a good compromise for TV but NOT for 3D animated DVD/Blu-Ray movies). The additional brightness will help for some TV show series but at the cost of color saturation. If dark scenes seem too dark then tough luck, get a 838 series which has a iris to correct the amount of bulb light on a per scene bases or get a plasma set if you want better black levels.

Picking the various picture modes for the content you're going to view is VERY IMPORTANT. Mitsubishi should of labeled the Picture modes differently: Brilliant = TV & 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies, Bright = Sports, Natural = DVD/Blu-ray Films (non-3D animated).

You can use the Brilliant mode for DVD/blu-ray film movies but you'll need to lower the color to 38. You also might experience serious red push. This is because TV and Film have different color ranges and absolute black levels. But I think once you try my settings you'll find that movies look better under the Natural (Film) mode. If you really need movies to look like TV then you can push the color as high as you want (above 70 in the Natural mode).

Video Noise and Sharpness are content specific so I leave it up to individual preference for those settings. But for Brilliant and Natural picture modes it seems that some amount of sharpness should be applied. How much is up to you, if any at all.

Someone needs to buy me a beer (or two) for my efforts. :O)

This is awesome, but will these settings be for 60638 model as well? thanks
Steelhorse2 is offline  
post #397 of 1377 Old 12-23-2010, 03:02 PM
Member
 
ColonelAce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hey lucid i want to first thank you for some great calibrations. i currently have the settings u placed in page 13 but now i see u have some new settings, im wondering which will work best for me and my WD-60C10 with my ps3. reason being is i will view all 3d content on my ps3 and use mostly my ps3 cable box isnt really something i use much and dont care much for. im all about blu rays 3d and gaming (3d gaming too). with the disc that comes with the 3DC-1000 i saw the Christmas Carol and it seemed to dark even the mini showcase with timon and pumba seemed a bit dark. Do you have any ideal settings or suggestion if so i would like to thankyou in advanced since i dont have any tools to calibrate my tv myself and i must rely on the expertise of members here
ColonelAce is offline  
post #398 of 1377 Old 12-23-2010, 03:03 PM
Senior Member
 
shibez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rochester, NY(Greece)
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Thanks so much for all the hard work Lucid.

check my about me to see my HT gear

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=7747546
shibez is offline  
post #399 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 02:01 AM
Member
 
CGMneon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SouthEast Washington State
Posts: 115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Great stuff, Lucid.

Thanks for all your efforts. I am most pleased with the image now.


Like some of the others on here, I'm a gamer. I'm using your "Brilliant" mode settings for my PS3 and Xbox 360.
CGMneon is offline  
post #400 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 02:13 PM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by pittpa View Post

I'm looking at the wd-60c10. I am wondering how the picture on these DLP sets is with standard definition Dish Network channels. I did a search and only found reference to some dissatisfaction with SD cable signals. Thanks.
Dell sent me a 15% coupon so I am revisiting this set. I was out of town and missed the sale after Thanksgiving, much to my dismay.

If you're going to watch a lot of SD content then I would recommend a smaller HDTV (50"). If you're going to sit far away (12+ feet) then you can go larger but you'll probably be happier with a "good" LCD/Plasma set. Note, not all LCD/Plasma HDTVs handle SD content well either so you'll have to shop around/research. Sadly, for DLP rear projection HDTVs you have no other choice than Mitsubishi. The higher end series (738/838) might do better with SD content but I can't personally verify that one way or the other.

These DLP rear projection sets are ideal for blu-ray movies and gaming. They do well with HDTV broadcasts but because of the larger screen size you'll see more video artifacts - that exist in the video itself. That's because of the limited bandwidth for HD broadcast content to display high resolution video. Not to mention, most HD broadcasts are done at 720p - not 1080p. Blu-ray and gaming doesn't have that bandwidth limit which is why that content looks great on these sets.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #401 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 02:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelhorse2 View Post

This is awesome, but will these settings be for 60638 model as well? thanks

These settings might or might not work for your HDTV. But they should be in the ballpark. The problem with sizes larger/smaller than 65", my set size, is that the brightness might be lower/higher. Also, the color wheel in these sets might not be produced to exacting standards. So the color wheel colors could be slightly different. But it shouldn't be way off, otherwise you wouldn't be able to calibrate your HDTV.

You can find the absolute black level of your set by displaying 4:3 content and then lower/raising the Brightness until the side bars don't get any blacker. The point at which they go light gray 1 tick higher than absolute black. If that value is 51 on your set then it's the same as mine. The Brightness of 42 that I found used a NTSC reference pattern. You can find your NTSC "Black" Brightness value by displaying the Black Clipping test from the free AVSHD 709 video.

The Tint value to use is where things get tricky. Unless you purchase a calibration DVD/Blu-ray and do your own calibrations you're best bet is to use the Tint values I gave for "Sound & Vision calibration Results". Then display a SMPTE color bar pattern, you can get that for free, and adjust the Tint value higher/lower until the Cyan color looks accurate. Then after that look at video to make sure flesh tones look natural. But the true test is looking at a neon yellow color. If your tint is to high it will be greenish....if it's too low it will be more of a deeper yellow or orange like.

Do the above and you'll have your HDTV calibrated without having to spend a few bucks for the calibration blue glasses or 10-20 bucks for a calibration DVD with the glasses/film.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #402 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 02:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColonelAce View Post

hey lucid i want to first thank you for some great calibrations. i currently have the settings u placed in page 13 but now i see u have some new settings, im wondering which will work best for me and my WD-60C10 with my ps3. reason being is i will view all 3d content on my ps3 and use mostly my ps3 cable box isnt really something i use much and dont care much for. im all about blu rays 3d and gaming (3d gaming too). with the disc that comes with the 3DC-1000 i saw the Christmas Carol and it seemed to dark even the mini showcase with timon and pumba seemed a bit dark. Do you have any ideal settings or suggestion if so i would like to thankyou in advanced since i dont have any tools to calibrate my tv myself and i must rely on the expertise of members here

See the message above to do your own calibration without a calibration DVD/Blu-ray or glasses.

I don't have the 3D adapter but have heard that the IR 3D glasses produce darker images. The DLP link glasses/DLP setting send short pulses of full white images in between each left and right image. This is done so the glasses know when to switch from right or left eye. This burst of white also seems to make the image brighter but I can't confirm that personally. If the image still looks dark then use a Brightness of 51 and a Color of 44 for 3D animated movies. You can also, set the Contrast to 100 but would recommend leaving it at 90 since it doesn't add much brightness.

For gaming, you'll have to play around with the Brightness value (either 42 or 50). That depends a lot on the consoles/games ability to adjust for brightness. Most of the consoles were designed to work with a HDTV but at the time they were released most used them with a analog non-HDTV. Obviously that's not the case nowadays with more affordable HDTV displays.

I have a Xbox 360 so I can't speak to a PS3. And my 360 is the older model, component output - no HDMI. I also haven't played a lot of different games yet. But in Gears of War I had to increase the in game brightness to get it to look good and used a HDTV Brightness value of 42, found 50 to be too bright and it washed out darker details (made shadows more gray than black). All the other settings are from the Brilliant mode using the Tint values from the "Sound & Vision calibration Results".
Lucid69 is offline  
post #403 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 03:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You can get the THX blue filter glasses here for a few bucks to use for your HDTV calibration. You can download test patterns for free or use a DVD/Blu-ray that has the THX Optimizer on it (listing of them is here). That's about the cheapest way to calibrate your set outside of just plugging in my numbers and adjusting tint slightly to your liking.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #404 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 03:26 PM
Senior Member
 
shibez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rochester, NY(Greece)
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
In 1080p mode the tv keeps flashing...what the heck is goin on? is it the tv?

got it to work after a few hours of fidgeting with it but then the next day it happened again...i have the latest updates for the ps3 too. finally i have given up and just use 1080i/720p

check my about me to see my HT gear

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=7747546
shibez is offline  
post #405 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 03:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez View Post

In 1080p mode the tv keeps flashing...what the heck is goin on? is it the tv?

got it to work after a few hours of fidgeting with it but then the next day it happened again...i have the latest updates for the ps3 too. finally i have given up and just use 1080i/720p

Try holding the power button down for 10 seconds. This reboots the HDTV - so to speak.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #406 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 06:22 PM
Member
 
jakeroux's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Divine_Madcat View Post

I want to bump this question, since i may end up in the same situation (plugging in my BluRay, Cable, and PC via HDMI, and having the TV pass through the digital out to my stereo system). Any one have any ideas?

Not sure why I overlooked the obvious on my first attempt, but if your cable box has both HDMI and digital audio (coax or fiber optical), you can run the HDMI to the TV and the digital audio (coax or fiber optical) to your receiver or sound system to get Dolby Digital/surround to your receiver independent of the Mitsu.
jakeroux is offline  
post #407 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 06:41 PM
Senior Member
 
shibez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rochester, NY(Greece)
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

Try holding the power button down for 10 seconds. This reboots the HDTV - so to speak.

of the tv?

check my about me to see my HT gear

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=7747546
shibez is offline  
post #408 of 1377 Old 12-24-2010, 06:45 PM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez View Post

of the tv?

On the TV remote.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #409 of 1377 Old 12-25-2010, 01:44 AM
Senior Member
 
shibez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Rochester, NY(Greece)
Posts: 353
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez View Post

In 1080p mode the tv keeps flashing...what the heck is goin on? is it the tv?

got it to work after a few hours of fidgeting with it but then the next day it happened again...i have the latest updates for the ps3 too. finally i have given up and just use 1080i/720p

OK ive fixed this problem...when i disabled deep color in the ps3 menu under display settings i can do 1080p no problems...

check my about me to see my HT gear

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=7747546
shibez is offline  
post #410 of 1377 Old 12-25-2010, 04:31 AM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez View Post

OK ive fixed this problem...when i disabled deep color in the ps3 menu under display settings i can do 1080p no problems...

Sounds like you're using a HDMI Category 1 cable since they can't handle the bandwidth demands of 1080p @ 60fps. Go to monoprice and get yourself a HDMI Category 2 (also known as "High Speed") cable for a few bucks. That way you can re-enable deep color, since our HDTVs support it, to get better color gradients.

HDMI information from Wikipedia:
HDMI 1.3 defines two cable categories: Category 1-certified cables, which have been tested at 74.5 MHz (which would include resolutions such as 720p60 and 1080i60), and Category 2-certified cables, which have been tested at 340 MHz (which would include resolutions such as 1080p60 and 2160p30). Category 1 HDMI cables are to be marketed as "Standard" and Category 2 HDMI cables as "High Speed".

As of HDMI 1.4 specification, there are following cable types defined for HDMI in general:
  • Standard HDMI Cable - up to 1080i and 720p
  • Standard HDMI Cable with Ethernet
  • Automotive HDMI Cable
  • High Speed HDMI Cable - 1080p, 4K, 3D and Deep Color
  • High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet
Cable manufacturers officially are prohibited to market the cables by HDMI standard version (for instance "HDMI 1.4 cable") - the cables are distinguished in bitrate support only.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #411 of 1377 Old 12-25-2010, 07:57 PM
Member
 
boozcruz33's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 144
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am trying to get my WD-65638 working with my Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 starter kit to display 3D from my Comcast cable box (Motorola DCX3400). If I manually force the cable box to 1080i and connect it directly to the 3D adapter, it seems to work fine. But, when I connect through my Pioneer VSX-1120-k, the TV and the adapter seem to not get along and I cannot get a picture on the TV. The weird part is that I get occasional sound, mostly a black screen that says Invalid Format and every once in a while I get an all green screen that quickly goes back to black. I have even seen an occasional blue screen that gives some message about the HDMI signal being corrupt or something, but that goes away before I even get a chance to read it.

The initial reaction is that the receiver does not support HDMI 1.4a (even though it says it does) and that is the problem. The weird part is that I have my PS3 routed through the receiver and I can watch 3D movies from it with no problems at all. I have posted something on the Comcast 3D forum to see if anyone else has seen this, but I figured I would ask here as well since this might be related to the TV or the Mitsu adapter. I tried using the exact same HDMI cables that I am using for the PS3, so I don't think the issue is a cable that does not support the bandwidth.

Any ideas? I have tried everything I can think of and have spoken with 3 different Comcast technical support CSRs who were no help at all.

Thanks,
Shane
boozcruz33 is offline  
post #412 of 1377 Old 12-25-2010, 08:14 PM
Senior Member
 
Lucid69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Delaware
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by boozcruz33 View Post

I am trying to get my WD-65638 working with my Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 starter kit to display 3D from my Comcast cable box (Motorola DCX3400). If I manually force the cable box to 1080i and connect it directly to the 3D adapter, it seems to work fine. But, when I connect through my Pioneer VSX-1120-k, the TV and the adapter seem to not get along and I cannot get a picture on the TV. The weird part is that I get occasional sound, mostly a black screen that says Invalid Format and every once in a while I get an all green screen that quickly goes back to black. I have even seen an occasional blue screen that gives some message about the HDMI signal being corrupt or something, but that goes away before I even get a chance to read it.

The initial reaction is that the receiver does not support HDMI 1.4a (even though it says it does) and that is the problem. The weird part is that I have my PS3 routed through the receiver and I can watch 3D movies from it with no problems at all. I have posted something on the Comcast 3D forum to see if anyone else has seen this, but I figured I would ask here as well since this might be related to the TV or the Mitsu adapter. I tried using the exact same HDMI cables that I am using for the PS3, so I don't think the issue is a cable that does not support the bandwidth.

Any ideas? I have tried everything I can think of and have spoken with 3 different Comcast technical support CSRs who were no help at all.

Thanks,
Shane

If you're not 100% sure your cable is HDMI High Speed then get one. The Pioneer VSX-1120-k might be "expanding" your input to use deep color, making it progressive 1080p, or something else that causes the signal bandwidth to be greater which will be a problem with a standard HDMI cable.

If it's not the cable, you could just run a separate HDMI input to the HDTV from the adapter, along with a separate digital audio out to your receiver. While AV receivers can be used to switch video I always like to take the shortest path to the HDTV itself. If that means I need to run separate audio then so be it. As I've suggested before, you could look into a DVDO Edge which does auto HDMI switching and allows for one output to the HDTV. That's the main purpose of the device. For AV receivers video is an afterthought - it's primary purpose is audio.

Check your receiver if it has a native pass through mode for HDMI inputs to it's output. Last thing you want to do is process a 3D input since that can cause nothing but problems. But it sounds to me that your AV receiver is converting the 1080i 3D signal to 1080p 3D and that the HDMI is a standard speed cable (not high speed). But you'll have to look at your owners manual for the receiver. Most try to 1080p upscale everything, that's why I make that assumption.

If you haven't already done so, try connecting the 3D adapter before and after the receiver in it's path to the HDTV.
Lucid69 is offline  
post #413 of 1377 Old 12-27-2010, 06:10 AM
Member
 
boozcruz33's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 144
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

If you're not 100% sure your cable is HDMI High Speed then get one. The Pioneer VSX-1120-k might be "expanding" your input to use deep color, making it progressive 1080p, or something else that causes the signal bandwidth to be greater which will be a problem with a standard HDMI cable.

If it's not the cable, you could just run a separate HDMI input to the HDTV from the adapter, along with a separate digital audio out to your receiver. While AV receivers can be used to switch video I always like to take the shortest path to the HDTV itself. If that means I need to run separate audio then so be it. As I've suggested before, you could look into a DVDO Edge which does auto HDMI switching and allows for one output to the HDTV. That's the main purpose of the device. For AV receivers video is an afterthought - it's primary purpose is audio.

Check your receiver if it has a native pass through mode for HDMI inputs to it's output. Last thing you want to do is process a 3D input since that can cause nothing but problems. But it sounds to me that your AV receiver is converting the 1080i 3D signal to 1080p 3D and that the HDMI is a standard speed cable (not high speed). But you'll have to look at your owners manual for the receiver. Most try to 1080p upscale everything, that's why I make that assumption.

If you haven't already done so, try connecting the 3D adapter before and after the receiver in it's path to the HDTV.

I have verified that all cables in the path are high speed. It appears the issue is due to the cable box changing its settings based on information it receives in the initial handshake. For some reason, the receiver is not giving the correct information, so the cable box is going back to 480p and not sending a 3D signal. That explains why it works when the box is connected right to the adapter, but it doesn't work through the receiver. The frustrating part is that one of the reasons I bought this receiver is for the 3D support.

I could run the cable box directly to the adapter and then run optical audio to the receiver, but then I would need to buy a second adapter (for the ps3) or a splitter of some sort. I guess I wouldn't have this problem with the 738/838 models since they don't require an adapter, but I am not sure if that is worth the extra money. Maybe it is time to contact Pioneer or find a receiver that will work more reliably.
boozcruz33 is offline  
post #414 of 1377 Old 12-27-2010, 11:42 AM
Newbie
 
snayte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by boozcruz33 View Post

I have verified that all cables in the path are high speed. It appears the issue is due to the cable box changing its settings based on information it receives in the initial handshake. For some reason, the receiver is not giving the correct information, so the cable box is going back to 480p and not sending a 3D signal. That explains why it works when the box is connected right to the adapter, but it doesn't work through the receiver. The frustrating part is that one of the reasons I bought this receiver is for the 3D support.

I could run the cable box directly to the adapter and then run optical audio to the receiver, but then I would need to buy a second adapter (for the ps3) or a splitter of some sort. I guess I wouldn't have this problem with the 738/838 models since they don't require an adapter, but I am not sure if that is worth the extra money. Maybe it is time to contact Pioneer or find a receiver that will work more reliably.

I have a Pioneer VSX-1020 and have nearly the same problem with Directv and 720P 3D signals. The picture come up briefly and looks great but then the Sat receiver says that my TV does not support 720p resolution. I have not had a chance to hook the Sat directly to the 3d box to see if the AVR is introducing the problem but I believe it is. Everything works great if the signal is in 1020.
snayte is offline  
post #415 of 1377 Old 12-27-2010, 04:21 PM
Newbie
 
asadkhanvp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
gentleman,

how are you all?

i hope you all had a very safe and happy holiday.

i was lucky enough to receive my free 3d starter kit from mitsubishi on thursday dec 23. i set it all up according to manual.

when connected to ps3, the tv said the ps3 was not a 3d source.

any suggestions on how to remedy this issue or should i shell out the 200$ for a 3d blu ray stand alone player?

thanks in advance!
asadkhanvp is offline  
post #416 of 1377 Old 12-27-2010, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
Koy
Member
 
Koy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 148
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Is your PS3 updated with the latest software?

If your PS3 system software version is 3.55 (or later), you do not need to perform this update. To check the version of your system software, go to (Settings) > (System Settings) > [System Information]. The information is shown in the [System Software] field.

Hope this helps.

PSN: Bloodstryke
Live: Ferocious Gamer
Koy is offline  
post #417 of 1377 Old 12-27-2010, 08:29 PM
Newbie
 
larsoncc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by asadkhanvp View Post

gentleman,

how are you all?

i hope you all had a very safe and happy holiday.

i was lucky enough to receive my free 3d starter kit from mitsubishi on thursday dec 23. i set it all up according to manual.

when connected to ps3, the tv said the ps3 was not a 3d source.

any suggestions on how to remedy this issue or should i shell out the 200$ for a 3d blu ray stand alone player?

thanks in advance!

My PS3 works wonderfully in 3D mode with this TV. You need to get a new HDMI cable is all. It's a $6 fix.

I just tried hooking up the PS3 with an old HDMI cable and got the same results. Your mileage may vary, but I'd say with at least 75% certainty that the cables you're using aren't high speed. Go to monoprice.com, get High Speed + Ethernet to get the latest standard, you'll pay about $7 per cable, if that.
larsoncc is offline  
post #418 of 1377 Old 12-28-2010, 08:59 AM
Member
 
briankstan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 67
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

I finally figured out the best values/settings for my 65C10. Please note the various picture modes and when to use them.

Brilliant - (TV Mode) Use for normal TV and 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies
Brightness: 42 (42 is NTSC black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 90
Color: 46 (46 is NTSC color reference (max), change to 38 for 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies)
Tint: 10
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Bright - (Sports Mode) Use for sports
Brightness: 42 (42 is NTSC black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 90
Color: 38 (Color level might need to be adjusted +/-2 ticks depending on the sporting event)
Tint: -6 (Tint level might need to be adjust depending on the sporting event)
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Natural - (Film Mode) Use for DVD/Blu-ray movies (non-3D animated)
Brightness: 51 (51 is Film black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 80
Color: 62-70 (62 is Film color reference, going higher than 70 can cause color push)
Tint: 15
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

These settings and using them for the correct video content is in my opinion perfect. What ever you do, DO NOT CHANGE the Brightness values given above. This will screw the colors up in a major way. If you must increase it, you shouldn't use more than 2-4 ticks higher but I can't even recommend you do that since it comes at a cost of screwing up the colors/saturation. If you do increase the Brightness then don't exceed 50 and also reduce the Color a bit, probably 2-6 ticks lower (example: Brightness 48 and Color 40 for the Brilliant mode is a good compromise for TV but NOT for 3D animated DVD/Blu-Ray movies). The additional brightness will help for some TV show series but at the cost of color saturation. If dark scenes seem too dark then tough luck, get a 838 series which has a iris to correct the amount of bulb light on a per scene bases or get a plasma set if you want better black levels.

Picking the various picture modes for the content you're going to view is VERY IMPORTANT. Mitsubishi should of labeled the Picture modes differently: Brilliant = TV & 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies, Bright = Sports, Natural = DVD/Blu-ray Films (non-3D animated).

You can use the Brilliant mode for DVD/blu-ray film movies but you'll need to lower the color to 38. You also might experience serious red push. This is because TV and Film have different color ranges and absolute black levels. But I think once you try my settings you'll find that movies look better under the Natural (Film) mode. If you really need movies to look like TV then you can push the color as high as you want (above 70 in the Natural mode).

Video Noise and Sharpness are content specific so I leave it up to individual preference for those settings. But for Brilliant and Natural picture modes it seems that some amount of sharpness should be applied. How much is up to you, if any at all.

Someone needs to buy me a beer (or two) for my efforts. :O)


Just wanted to say thanks for posting these settings, I'm very happy with them and the colors they produce.
briankstan is offline  
post #419 of 1377 Old 12-28-2010, 12:10 PM
Newbie
 
tolonen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Going through options on enabling 3D and I wanted to make sure I have everything straight.

So the most economical way of getting 3D on this set is with DLP Link type glasses, correct? I would need the following parts:
  • 3DA-1 Mitsubishi Adapter Kit (converts 3D Bluray player signal so TV can display) [~$100]
  • Ultimate 3D Heaven DLP Link Glasses [~$60 Each]

The other option is with the IR Link type glasses which would require an additional purchase of the IR emitter from Mitsubishi somehow.

So has anyone here tried the DLP Link type of glasses on this set, how does the 3D look? Is it worth it to spend the extra on the IR setup?
tolonen is offline  
post #420 of 1377 Old 12-28-2010, 12:27 PM
Member
 
pioneercrazed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: St. Cloud, FL
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've done a ton of reading on the 3d for this TV and it actually seems like dlp-link may have a better picture than the IR.

Also, in place of the adapter you could buy the panasonic 3d bluray player as those will send the correct signal for the TV to understand. However if you want to ever view 3d from sat/cable then you would need the adapter or if you already own a 3d bluray or PS3.
pioneercrazed is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off