2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1377 Old 02-14-2011, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Yea i read the entire thread that's why i asked my question
Cause lucid settings are for a 65 inch

So im wondering from the people who actually have the 60 inch

What is the best setting?

The same as lucid?

Did anybody who has the 60 " try those settings?


Im no expert this is my first HDTV so i need all the help i can get

Thanks

I tried everyone settings. Just to see what the differences were. I have the 60". This is the one that I settled on, as it gave me the picture closest to the Calibrated Sharp Aquos I had been using, and looks good on my cable box, DirecTv, FTA satellite receiver, PS3 and a media server. I didnt want to have to change settings every time I watched a different program.

I should note, that I bought the 60638 with the "cheap scaler" in it, because I already had a DVDO processor, which outputs anything it gets as a true 1080p output, which bypasses the Mitsubishi built in scaler. So you might have to tweek a little with the sharpness and noise reduction settings if you are using a 480i/p or 720p input... That said, this is how mine is set. My room is NOT bright.

Picture Mode: Natural
Brightness 60
Contrast 65
Color 50
Tint 4
Sharpness 25
Video Noise OFF
Color Temp HIGH

Reds are good, yellows arent greenish, blacks are detailed, whites are not over the top. Hopefully, this setting from one of the previous posters will get you in the ballpark. If you have a bright room, try some of the other settings using the Bright Settings found several pages back.

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post #722 of 1377 Old 02-14-2011, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshj392 View Post

I've had my 65638 for about two weeks now, and notice an interesting phenomenon. Sometimes after switching inputs, the sound disappears on an HDMI input. It happens often enough to be a pain, and the only way to relieve the problem is to restart the TV. Am I correct that this is an HDMI handshake issue? Any suggestions?
Inputs: HDMI 1, Samsung DVR
HDMI 2, Samsung Bluray
Component 1, Wii

Try unplugging the offending port, and plugging the cable back in. If it still has no sound, check the sound settings to see if it somehow glitched and turned the speakers off. Ive never heard of this before. Usually a HDMI handshake issue will cause the picture to fail, not the sound. If it continues, I would at least open a trouble ticket with Mitsubishi, in case they need to replace the board or software.

That said, I have my audio run from my components to a HDMI switcher, and use Toslink to an A/V receiver, so I would never know if this was happening on my TV..

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post #723 of 1377 Old 02-14-2011, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenlr View Post

I tried everyone settings. Just to see what the differences were. I have the 60". This is the one that I settled on, as it gave me the picture closest to the Calibrated Sharp Aquos I had been using, and looks good on my cable box, DirecTv, FTA satellite receiver, PS3 and a media server. I didnt want to have to change settings every time I watched a different program.

I should note, that I bought the 60638 with the "cheap scaler" in it, because I already had a DVDO processor, which outputs anything it gets as a true 1080p output, which bypasses the Mitsubishi built in scaler. So you might have to tweek a little with the sharpness and noise reduction settings if you are using a 480i/p or 720p input... That said, this is how mine is set. My room is NOT bright.

Picture Mode: Natural
Brightness 60
Contrast 65
Color 50
Tint 4
Sharpness 25
Video Noise OFF
Color Temp HIGH

Reds are good, yellows arent greenish, blacks are detailed, whites are not over the top. Hopefully, this setting from one of the previous posters will get you in the ballpark. If you have a bright room, try some of the other settings using the Bright Settings found several pages back.

My set didn't arrive but comes tomorrow because of the weather, however why would you want color temp on high? You don't want oranges being redish do you?
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post #724 of 1377 Old 02-14-2011, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericks View Post

My set didn't arrive but comes tomorrow because of the weather, however why would you want color temp on high? You don't want oranges being redish do you?

When I tried it on low, everything looked like a really bad reddish...Ive never liked any of my tvs on "warm" or "low". Usually I choose "middle" but this one doesnt have middle.

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post #725 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iseeq4life View Post

Can someone please tell me if this TV is Canadian approved? CSA (Canadian Safety Association) or ULc (Underwriter Laboratory Canada).

There would be a sticker near the power plug behind the TV to indicate this (any kinda of symbol/letters with "C").

This will only take one minute of your time with a flash light.

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iseeq4life View Post

I checked but didn't find any information regarding US or Canada approvals. The quickest way to find that information is usually by checking the sticker or etching by the power plug area on the appliance.

Can someone please stick their head behind their TV to check. Don't forget a flashlight.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by iseeq4life View Post

Please... can no one can spare 1 minute of their time to check?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjroddy View Post

Only regulatory compliance symbols I can see on the back of my 65837 are the normal US FCC and UL Listed symbols... the same label has the US patent numbers and the California address of MDEA, suggesting the label is country specific.

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

My 60638 has only UL and FCC logos engraved on the back of the set.

You can post three times in as many hours when you get no answers, but can't manage a simple "thank-you" 48 hours after two people have gone out of their way to assist you...
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post #726 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Yea i read the entire thread that's why i asked my question
Cause lucid settings are for a 65 inch

So im wondering from the people who actually have the 60 inch

What is the best setting?

The same as lucid?

Did anybody who has the 60 " try those settings?


Im no expert this is my first HDTV so i need all the help i can get

Thanks

The best settings is your own custom calibration. You can use mine or other peoples posted settings as a starting point and then customize them to your visual liking. Just be sure to make your adjustments in this order - Brightness, Contrast, Color, and then Tint. But if you're using a calibration video for Tint then search this thread for my posting on the procedures for that since they're different then the normal way you would do it.
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post #727 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenlr View Post

Picture Mode: Natural
Brightness 60
Contrast 65
Color 50
Tint 4
Sharpness 25
Video Noise OFF
Color Temp HIGH

You might want to bump up your Contrast setting and lower your Brightness. I'd recommend using a Brightness of 50 and then lowering the Contrast from 100 until the picture is at the brightness you like. The reason why you would use the Contrast for this vs. the Brightness is that Brightness works directly with the sets black levels and you don't want to go beyond absolute black or your blacks will be more gray then black. A quick way to find out your HDTVs black level is to watch a 4:3 video. Then increase the Brightness (from around 30) until you see the black side bars change. Then back it off one tick and you're at the max. Brightness setting that you should use. Make this adjustment with the Contrast at 100. You can then adjust the Contrast and if lower check your Brightness again to see if it can come up a bit in value.
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post #728 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericks View Post

My set didn't arrive but comes tomorrow because of the weather, however why would you want color temp on high? You don't want oranges being redish do you?

The Low color temperature on the C10/638 isn't D65, like on the 738/838 sets. The High color temperature on the C10/638 is closer to D65 (don't have the hardware to find out how close it is to D65).
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post #729 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 07:00 AM
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Quick question regarding 3D.

I have the Panasonic BDT100 and the 3D starter kit from Mits. Since the Panny does checkerboard, I shouldn't need the converter box, right? For some reason, when I connect everything up, I'm getting some doubling of images. It's definitely doing 3D, but it's not crisp and clean. For example, on the Disney starter disc, during the point when Timon and Pumba are talking about how crisp and clean 3D should look and they show a billboard for A Christmas Carol, that looks really blurry. The Disney castle that they show before previews clearly has the towers doubled and such. But other parts look really good.

I plugged the IR dongle into the TV directly, have the Blu-Ray player outputting Checkerboard 3D in 1080p/24. It's being run into a Pioneer 1120, which is 1.4 compliant, and then out to the TV. The Pioneer is set to 1080p/24 as well. Glasses are the ones that come with the starter kit.

Any idea what I might be doing wrong?
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post #730 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 08:15 AM
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Ok thanks everybody i would like to keep the setting in NATURAL


I test it when i get the tv today
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post #731 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

You might want to bump up your Contrast setting and lower your Brightness. I'd recommend using a Brightness of 50 and then lowering the Contrast from 100 until the picture is at the brightness you like.

OK, That makes the picture look a lot better, but its WAY to bright. I did as you suggested, and set the brightness on 50. It was right about that spot where the black sidebars started turning gray. Then I backed off the contrast from 100 until I hit 60, which is about the brightness I like. The brightness Black to Gray sidebar number stayed right about 50, maybe 52 now. Ill try watching it this way tonight and see how it shakes out.

Thanks for the tips.

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post #732 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 04:54 PM
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Im here to report back


I tried all the settings

I cant do brilliant it was just to bright


Natural was just right


So i tested all the natural settings from this thread


And decided to use lucid natural setting he posted for movies?blurays
Im using those settings for TV channels
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post #733 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Ok thanks everybody i would like to keep the setting in NATURAL


I test it when i get the tv today

The Natural setting on the C10/638 do not provide fully saturated reds. I would not recommend using the Natural setting for TV, you'll be greatly disappointed. The C10/638 use a different video processor so what works for the 738/838 doesn't apply on these sets. The previous year C9s used the same video processor as the higher end models so output settings were similar. Case in point, the Low color temperature on the 738/838 is set to D65. But on the C10/638 the High color temperature is closer to D65, the Low setting is no way in hell even close to D65.

So I recommend that you have a clean and open mind when applying your settings and don't rely on what you might have heard or read about in the 738/838 threads.

Note - If things are too bright in the Brilliant mode then reduce the Contrast level till it's to your liking. If the colors are to saturated then lower the color setting. You should be able to get the Brilliant mode very close to the Natural setting, except with the Brilliant mode bright reds look red and not pink like they do in the Natural mode (at least for TV).
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post #734 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teach42 View Post

Quick question regarding 3D.

I have the Panasonic BDT100 and the 3D starter kit from Mits. Since the Panny does checkerboard, I shouldn't need the converter box, right? For some reason, when I connect everything up, I'm getting some doubling of images. It's definitely doing 3D, but it's not crisp and clean. For example, on the Disney starter disc, during the point when Timon and Pumba are talking about how crisp and clean 3D should look and they show a billboard for A Christmas Carol, that looks really blurry. The Disney castle that they show before previews clearly has the towers doubled and such. But other parts look really good.

I plugged the IR dongle into the TV directly, have the Blu-Ray player outputting Checkerboard 3D in 1080p/24. It's being run into a Pioneer 1120, which is 1.4 compliant, and then out to the TV. The Pioneer is set to 1080p/24 as well. Glasses are the ones that come with the starter kit.

Any idea what I might be doing wrong?

Disable the 24p mode on the Panasonic BDT100 Blu-ray player (the reason why is posted here). Also, if possible, directly connect the HDMI output from your Blu-ray player to your HDTV and feed your Pioneer 1120 just the audio separately (S/PDIF - coaxial or optical) from the Blu-ray player. But you could try the HDMI pass-thru/output on the HDTV to your Pioneer so it can get the audio.
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post #735 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

The Natural setting on the C10/638 do not provide fully saturated reds. I would not recommend using the Natural setting for TV, you'll be greatly disappointed. The C10/638 use a different video processor so what works for the 738/838 doesn't apply on these sets. The previous year C9s used the same video processor as the higher end models so output settings were similar. Case in point, the Low color temperature on the 738/838 is set to D65. But on the C10/638 the High color temperature is closer to D65, the Low setting is no way in hell even close to D65.

So I recommend that you have a clean and open mind when applying your settings and don't rely on what you might have heard or read about in the 738/838 threads.

Note - If things are too bright in the Brilliant mode then reduce the Contrast level till it's to your liking. If the colors are to saturated then lower the color setting. You should be able to get the Brilliant mode very close to the Natural setting, except with the Brilliant mode bright reds look red and not pink like they do in the Natural mode (at least for TV).

In the tv manual that came with the tv it says that brilliant mode kills the bulb faster, in natural it will last longer

Its in the replacement bulb section of the manual


But ill try the settings u posted again, with a few tweaks




Also what is that reflection on the back of the tv?
I have the tv against a wall, and the part where the light image is hitting on the wall is very hot


This is not going to melt the paint off the wall or make a hole is it?

How hot does the projection image in the back get
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post #736 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

In the tv manual that came with the tv it says that brilliant mode kills the bulb faster, in natural it will last longer

Its in the replacement bulb section of the manual

You must of gotten a different manual than I did since mine doesn't say that. The 738/838 HDTVs come with a dual watt bulb and on those sets you can change the energy mode of the bulb from Standard (156 watt) to Bright (180 watt) but that's different then the Brilliant, Bright, and Natural picture modes. And if you use the Bright bulb mode on the 738/838 HDTVs you will have a shorter bulb life. But on the C10/638 the bulb operates at a constant 156 watts regardless of the picture mode selected and has no energy mode for the bulb. So no matter the picture mode you select on the C10/638 (Brilliant, Bright, or Natural) you'll get the same life from your bulb. It's the video processing and angle used for the mirrors that seem to give a brighter picture vs. the Natural setting - not the bulb increasing brightness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Also what is that reflection on the back of the tv?
I have the tv against a wall, and the part where the light image is hitting on the wall is very hot

This is not going to melt the paint off the wall or make a hole is it?

How hot does the projection image in the back get

Sadly, this set has the bulb exhaust very close to the light engine. Other higher end rear projection sets of the past used some ducting so that you didn't get light spill.

I think the min. distance recommended is 4" between the back of the HDTV and the wall, ideally 6-12" would be better. It's also best if you have a TV stand that covers the back to any front openings so it doesn't show the light. It also helps if the stand is a bit deeper than the HDTV.

As for how hot the exhaust is from this set - hard to tell and will vary depending on room temperature and altitude. But if you keep it at the recommended distances from the wall or greater and don't let your house/room get too hot then everything will be fine.
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post #737 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 09:49 PM
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I bought this tv from Dell.com

Am i already register with mitsubishi ? Or am i suppose to send something to them online or by mail




Also does the dell 2 year extended warranty cover a bulb replacement?
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post #738 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

Note - If things are too bright in the Brilliant mode then reduce the Contrast level till it's to your liking. If the colors are to saturated then lower the color setting. You should be able to get the Brilliant mode very close to the Natural setting, except with the Brilliant mode bright reds look red and not pink like they do in the Natural mode (at least for TV).

I am using Natural, and my reds look good. They dont look pink at all.

These are my final settings after setting the black level using your method. Been watching all night, sports, talking heads, movie. Looks great for all in my living room lit by one 40W CFL bulb reflecting off the back wall.
Natural
brightness 50
contrast 60
color 50
tint 4
sharp 25
noise off
Color Temp High
LL

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post #739 of 1377 Old 02-15-2011, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davenlr View Post

I am using Natural, and my reds look good. They dont look pink at all.

These are my final settings after setting the black level using your method. Been watching all night, sports, talking heads, movie. Looks great for all in my living room lit by one 40W CFL bulb reflecting off the back wall.
Natural
brightness 50
contrast 60
color 50
tint 4
sharp 25
noise off
Color Temp High

That shot doesn't show any solid reds. If you had your set before Christmas you would've had a ton of TV content which had solid deep reds to compare too. Don't know if your sending your content through the DVDO or not either, which could provide some corrections and/or flag video differently. Also, don't know if you're using HDMI or component out from your sat/cable box since that could make a difference as well. I use HDMI out/in directly to the HDTV with OTA TV.

I suggest trying to find a TV show or commercial which has a lot of solid deep red in it. Then freeze the screen and cycle through the various picture modes. You should then see the difference with regards to reds.
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post #740 of 1377 Old 02-16-2011, 05:17 AM
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OK, Ill give that a try. Ive watched the "Cobert Report" which always has lots of American Flags in it, and they were all spot on color wise, as was the wooden floor. I am actually comparing the colors to a calibrated 46" Sharp Aquos LCD. Its very close, except now I am able to see that the people in the show arent all wearing black suit coats. The 60638 is actually showing all the different shades of the coat, and I can see all the detail in the patterns now. Its amazing.

It is totally possible that the DVDO is doing some correcting, as I have it set to AUTO for all the settings regarding color and video format (RGB/4:4:2/4:4:4) so I am just letting it do its thing.

Ill watch some cartoons when I get home from work, they usually have solid colors in them. So far though, you were right on with the black level setting, and using the contrast to adjust the brightness. That made a world of difference.

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post #741 of 1377 Old 02-16-2011, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdiehl View Post

I can't go all-HDMI with 4 sources unless I use a HDMI switcher (which I don't want to do, this is a secondary TV and I don't want to make things even more complicated for the babysitter, in-law's, etc).

You might have to set some priorities, and put the equipment that you don't want to make avaialble to the visitors on the switch.

Note that many AV receivers have a time delay that you can use to restore lib synch. There are also stand-alone boxes that add audio time delays.
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post #742 of 1377 Old 02-16-2011, 11:56 AM
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Thanks for the link about the 24p mode. Will check that out. Unfortunately i can't run the Panny directly into the TV. Running through the wall and only have one HDMI cable to the TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

Disable the 24p mode on the Panasonic BDT100 Blu-ray player (the reason why is posted here). Also, if possible, directly connect the HDMI output from your Blu-ray player to your HDTV and feed your Pioneer 1120 just the audio separately (S/PDIF - coaxial or optical) from the Blu-ray player. But you could try the HDMI pass-thru/output on the HDTV to your Pioneer so it can get the audio.

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post #743 of 1377 Old 02-16-2011, 08:04 PM
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OK, got a question for all you experts out there...

Tonight, I watched The Deadliest Plane Crash on PBS. Source was a DVB-S satellite receiver in my HTPC, running through a media extender, through the DVDO, to the 60638.

During any scene that was dark (like an interview with a close up of a person against a black background), I could notice random white specks all over the screens black areas, much like what you would see watching an old black and white movie. At this time, I paused the video, and the white dots continued. THey were randomly located on the screen, and upon close examination, appeared in both the black and non-black areas of the screen.

I switched the source to DirecTv (again through the DVDO), and closely inspecting, there might be a dot here and dot there occasionally, but nothing like it was on the other source.

Since this is digital from start to finish, what on earth can cause "static" on the screen? I NEVER noticed this on my LCD, and nothing in the entertainment center has changed at all, except the LCD was swapped out for the 60638. Same HDMI cables, etc.

Anyone seen anything like this? I saw some videos on Youtube of similar DLP static, but they were green and more pronounced. Most comments tended to say the "light engine" was bad.

I have 20 days left to return this for a full refund, so I want to make sure it isnt a problem with the TV for one, and if not, what could be the cause so I can fix it on the HTPC/media extenders output.

Thanks.

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post #744 of 1377 Old 02-16-2011, 08:37 PM
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Was wondering if this model is plagued by the geometry issues that the 738/838 owners are having. I'm hoping to find out soon, I've had a 73738 for about 2 weeks now and the geometry is painful. Thinking of returning it for C10/ 638 if they don't have similar issues. Any help/advice would be appreciated.
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post #745 of 1377 Old 02-16-2011, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue_Rage View Post

Was wondering if this model is plagued by the geometry issues that the 738/838 owners are having. I'm hoping to find out soon, I've had a 73738 for about 2 weeks now and the geometry is painful. Thinking of returning it for C10/ 638 if they don't have similar issues. Any help/advice would be appreciated.

I had a 60638 before my 60738 and it was just as bad if not worse. My advice is to call a tech who can use the service menu to fix the geometry for you, or learn to do it yourself. My 60738 has pretty decent geometry after I tinkered at the service menu for awhile. You won't get it perfect, but can make a really huge improvement if yours is far off from the factory.
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post #746 of 1377 Old 02-16-2011, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue_Rage View Post

Was wondering if this model is plagued by the geometry issues that the 738/838 owners are having. I'm hoping to find out soon, I've had a 73738 for about 2 weeks now and the geometry is painful. Thinking of returning it for C10/ 638 if they don't have similar issues. Any help/advice would be appreciated.

My 60638 does not appear to have any geometry issues. I just checked with a couple different test patterns, and everything lines up across the top, bottom and sides equally. Did notice in the small cross pattern, there is a slight misalignment of the primary colors on the top right corner, but overall was in focus, and the above anomaly isnt noticeable watching TV.

NOTE: Regarding above post. Since I have 20 days left, I have order a complete replacement set of high speed 3D, true color certified HDMI cables to see if that is the cause of the "static". If not, Im not sure what to do next, since the closest 3D TV 55" or larger is WAY out of my budget...Almost twice the price of the 60638. Might just suck it up, get the 4 yr extended in home warranty, and see what happens. Hopefully the cables fix it, because I love the picture on this TV.

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post #747 of 1377 Old 02-17-2011, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue_Rage View Post

Was wondering if this model is plagued by the geometry issues that the 738/838 owners are having. I'm hoping to find out soon, I've had a 73738 for about 2 weeks now and the geometry is painful. Thinking of returning it for C10/ 638 if they don't have similar issues. Any help/advice would be appreciated.

The 73" of the C10/638/738/838 typically have more screen sagging vs. the 60", 65", and 82" (only 738/838) models. So the amount of geometry issues at the same screen size should be similar. These are rear projection HDTVs so they'll have some geometry issues in general, at least compared to flat panels.
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post #748 of 1377 Old 02-17-2011, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Davenlr View Post

OK, got a question for all you experts out there...

Tonight, I watched The Deadliest Plane Crash on PBS. Source was a DVB-S satellite receiver in my HTPC, running through a media extender, through the DVDO, to the 60638.

During any scene that was dark (like an interview with a close up of a person against a black background), I could notice random white specks all over the screens black areas, much like what you would see watching an old black and white movie. At this time, I paused the video, and the white dots continued. THey were randomly located on the screen, and upon close examination, appeared in both the black and non-black areas of the screen.

At this point you're testing a rather long signal chain. So, its safe to say that you're not just ttesting your display device. Figuring out the source of whatever you observe seems like a lot of work if your purpose is evaluating the display.

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I switched the source to DirecTv (again through the DVDO), and closely inspecting, there might be a dot here and dot there occasionally, but nothing like it was on the other source.

If you want to test a display device, rule nuber one is KISS. IOW, Keep It Simple!

Your best shot at providing a clean source for testing your display is probably a good Blu Ray player, playing a test disc. Preferably a Blu Ray test disc. By test disc, I mean a purpose-made technical test disc with various test patterns, and from a reliable source.

Once you figure out that the display is good, then any aritfacts that you observe are obviously due to the changes that you make, and the equipment that feeds the display device.

Looks to me like right now you're trying to frustrate yourself to death.
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post #749 of 1377 Old 02-17-2011, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by arnyk View Post


Looks to me like right now you're trying to frustrate yourself to death.

Well, not really. I am just wondering it the Mitsubishi might require better cables than my 3 yr old Sharp Aquos. I have them on order, so Ill find out when they get here.

The signal chain isnt really any longer on the HTPC than it is for the other sources. The media extender gets its programming from the network. Since the LCD doesnt show this issue, I figured it must be the cables, or the display, since the display is the only thing that changed. Im going to wait until I get the new cables hooked up before worrying about it any more.

I just figured HDMI being digital, it would either be perfect, pixellating, or black. The white dots kind of threw me off.

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post #750 of 1377 Old 02-17-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Davenlr View Post

Well, not really. I am just wondering it the Mitsubishi might require better cables than my 3 yr old Sharp Aquos. I have them on order, so Ill find out when they get here.

The signal chain isnt really any longer on the HTPC than it is for the other sources. The media extender gets its programming from the network. Since the LCD doesnt show this issue, I figured it must be the cables, or the display, since the display is the only thing that changed. Im going to wait until I get the new cables hooked up before worrying about it any more.

I just figured HDMI being digital, it would either be perfect, pixellating, or black. The white dots kind of threw me off.

The HDMI cables shouldn't be causing this unless you're running them a long distance. Even then, I think you would get a signal drop out vs. static like images at times. If you don't see this occur while watching a Blu-ray movie, connected with a normal length HDMI cable then it's not your set (not going through you DVDO). If you're running a really long HDMI cable then you might need more then just a newer cable, rather a repeater would be needed at a set cable length.

And just because you don't see it on your flat panel LCD doesn't mean it's not happening there - it just might look a lot different then on a DLP set. Think about it, the LCD pixel if missing the info will probably default to a black (on state). While for DLP, it could be defaulting to pure white (on state). Also, remember that one mirror is used to make up 2 pixels. So there's more chance of you seeing it when that happens. And the larger screen size will make it more visible as well.

Satellite TV isn't perfect - you can get bad signals at times and how the HDTV handles it (as mentioned above) can be different. When I first got my set I saw what you described during one show. But it was only a few pixels and after the show was over so were the pixels. It wasn't so much like "white" pixels or static but more like the pixel "flashed" on or sparkled.

I gave up on satellite/cable TV - much rather have the money in my pocket. Plus with free OTA HDTV, Blu-rays, and streaming video (free and from services like Netflix) it's hard to justify spending $70+ a month on TV. But that's a whole other story.
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