2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 38 - AVS Forum
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post #1111 of 1377 Old 09-18-2011, 10:48 AM
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My kids got into some car cleaning stuff (leather conditioner) and decided to spray some on the screen of my 60C10. The liquid ran down and seeped up in between the two screens. I took everything apart and got it all cleaned up. The only problem now I have it all back together is the picture is only "focused" in this round spot in the middle of the screen. Outside of that bubble, the picture seems slightly out of focus and is not as bright. It's almost like you're sitting at too great of an angle (when the picture seems to darken and becomes slightly out of focus) You can see this "bubble" even when the set is off. I've taken the set back apart no less than three times to make sure I have everything in the correct place. What's going on? Is it possible to somehow distort the fresnel screen?
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post #1112 of 1377 Old 09-18-2011, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Are you serious? First brilliant is the worst mode on the tv period. Second contrast is too high and a high brightness doesn't equate to having better shadow detail.

You need to use adv mode and reasonable settings to have the best picture. The problem isn't the tv, it's your settings.

I respectfully disagree that the Brilliant mode is the worst mode on the C10/638 series of these sets. The Bright mode is probably the worst mode because it adds heavy sharpening to the picture which you can't disable (only add more sharpening on top of the default). I find the Brilliant mode, when properly calibrated, to offer the best looking picture for HDTV broadcasts and Blu-ray movies. Under some Blu-ray movies the Bright mode looks better (color space seems to be different on some movies). Please keep in mind that the picture modes on the C10/638 are not the same as those on the higher end models.

There are no advanced modes on the C10/638 series so you can't further tweak these HDTVs like you can on the higher end models. So if you want to see more shadow detail then there's no other choice but to increasing the brightness and/or contrast levels. The only other work around is to buy a video processor device in order to have more advanced adjustments.

But I don't think the issue is with the HDTV settings but rather the color range being sent to the HDTV. His playback device is probably setup to send a 0-255 color range. This will result in the HDTV cutting off lower end black levels, which makes for an awful looking picture. This is a common problem when using PCs and game consoles as playback devices.
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post #1113 of 1377 Old 09-18-2011, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post


I respectfully disagree that the Brilliant mode is the worst mode on the C10/638 series of these sets. The Bright mode is probably the worst mode because it adds heavy sharpening to the picture which you can't disable (only add more sharpening on top of the default). I find the Brilliant mode, when properly calibrated, to offer the best looking picture for HDTV broadcasts and Blu-ray movies. Under some Blu-ray movies the Bright mode looks better (color space seems to be different on some movies). Please keep in mind that the picture modes on the C10/638 are not the same as those on the higher end models.

There are no advanced modes on the C10/638 series so you can't further tweak these HDTVs like you can on the higher end models. So if you want to see more shadow detail then there's no other choice but to increasing the brightness and/or contrast levels. The only other work around is to buy a video processor device in order to have more advanced adjustments.

But I don't think the issue is with the HDTV settings but rather the color range being sent to the HDTV. His playback device is probably setup to send a 0-255 color range. This will result in the HDTV cutting off lower end black levels, which makes for an awful looking picture. This is a common problem when using PCs and game consoles as playback devices.

There is no way TO properly calibrate brilliant mode. The only mode on these tv's that can be properly calibrated are adv1/adv2.
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post #1114 of 1377 Old 09-18-2011, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

There is no way TO properly calibrate brilliant mode. The only mode on these tv's that can be properly calibrated are adv1/adv2.

Either you didn't read my full response or you're not aware that there are no advanced modes on the C10/638 series. I think you're confusing the higher end models or possibly the C9 model which allow for more control over calibration. Please note, this is a C10/638 thread so topics here are specific to those models.
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post #1115 of 1377 Old 09-19-2011, 05:08 PM
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Nicholc

You dont wanna go to war with lucid
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post #1116 of 1377 Old 09-19-2011, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Nocholc

You dont wanna go to war with lucid

There's no war. He is correct that adv1/adv2 modes are the best way to calibrate. But the C10/638 series don't have such modes. So the best way to calibrate the HDTVs we have is to use the settings I've provided as a baseline and tweak to taste. I just think he's confused that all models are the same, as we know they're not. But I just wanted to be clear so other owners are not confused thinking there are adv1/adv2 modes on these sets. After all, I'm well aware of the additional calibrations that the 738/838 sets provide, since I was considering a 73838. But I still made my choice for the C10 since I didn't see that much of a jump in video quality performance to justify more than twice the cost. Not to mention, I was able to score a 65C10 for $715 delivered. But using a HTPC the video quality is VERY good. I would rate it a 4 out of 5 in my configuration. Not worth paying 2x the price for a 5 out of 5 rating, unless one wants to piss money away. Nothing wrong with doing so, just not for me. Not to mention, these sets don't have a full frame HD DLP chip so why go all out when you know at some point they will offer it. At that point, the HDTV I have now will become my bedroom HDTV. :O)
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post #1117 of 1377 Old 09-20-2011, 06:26 AM
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I've been having problems getting movies and games on my PS3 to properly "sync" to my Mitsubishi 3D DLP since getting it last December. I'm connected directly to the TV via a high speed Monster HDMI cable (audio breaks off to receiver via optical when I want surround) Many times when a game or movie is started, you can watch the TV flip through different resolutions trying to find the right one, but almost always flips to an error (unable to sync or something similar. Can't remember off the top of my head) I usually end up quitting out of the game or movie back to the main menu so I can re-launch it. After watching it try to sync it eventually finds it.
I flashed to the latest firmware a month or so ago but that didn't do anything.
Does anybody know how to resolve this?
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post #1118 of 1377 Old 09-20-2011, 08:30 AM
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Damian i was gonna make fun of you for buying an expensive monster hdmi cable
But them i realized i bought an overpriced surge protector from them too

Do a search on the forum for Mitsubishi ps3 you will see a few threads with people that where having problems

I know because i was thinking of getting a ps3 and i did a search on here

It might be the same problem your having




Also anybody in this thread have a harmony remote ?
You cant change inputs with activities on these tvs right ,
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post #1119 of 1377 Old 09-20-2011, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Damian i was gonna make fun of you for buying an expensive monster hdmi cable
But them i realized i bought an overpriced surge protector from them too

Do a search on the forum for Mitsubishi ps3 you will see a few threads with people that where having problems

I know because i was thinking of getting a ps3 and i did a search on here

It might be the same problem your having




Also anybody in this thread have a harmony remote ?
You cant change inputs with activities on these tvs right ,

No reason to make fun, I work for Best Buy so I didn't pay full retail.
Thanks for the idea, I'll do that now.
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post #1120 of 1377 Old 09-20-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Nicholc

You dont wanna go to war with lucid

Honestly I didn't realize I was on the 10/638 thread when I posted that. So my comments on adv were wrong. However, brilliant is still not the mode of choice. You go natural in this case to start and go from there. No war needed. Just doing this on the iPhone app and the app cuts off the full thread name. ;-)
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post #1121 of 1377 Old 09-22-2011, 10:19 PM
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Hey guys..I have not posted in the forums for several months..but i was wondering if anyone ever tried loading the 738/838 3d firmware upgrade on one of the 638/c10 series and if so what happened?? thanks for any replies! dgb
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post #1122 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Honestly I didn't realize I was on the 10/638 thread when I posted that. So my comments on adv were wrong. However, brilliant is still not the mode of choice. You go natural in this case to start and go from there. No war needed. Just doing this on the iPhone app and the app cuts off the full thread name. ;-)

It's important to note that the video processor on the C10/638 is different vs. the other models. The "Natural" mode on these sets are not able to reproduce deep reds. Mitsubishi changed things up with the C10/638 models. So while they might be similar to the higher end modes, they are very different when it comes to their video processing and picture modes results. Here's how I would describe the picture modes on the C10/638 and why I consider the Brilliant mode the best.

Brilliant - Provides what I feel to be the best overall picture with deep reds and accurate yellows. The only negative is the picture can be slightly warm with some content. More so when the color is north of 32 for blu-ray movies and 36 for HDTV.

Bright - Picture is highly sharpened by default which makes it a poor mode to use for HDTV. But it does use a slightly different color space and sometimes looks better on a few blu-ray movies or sporting events (more accurate greens). This mode also produces darker shadow areas (more black crush).

Natural - The max. red is not bright enough to represent the full color range (reds are more pink like than red in saturation). This mode is the worst on HDTV but can work for Film based movies. The Natural mode is very close to the Brilliant mode but with limited color range. This is why it's not best for HDTV since the picture looks a bit bland, similar to water colors vs oil paints.
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post #1123 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 06:50 AM
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My WD-60638 has had problems on multiple occasions where the TV will just not turn on. I can do the reset and I can hear something come on but it will come back and the green light will blink a few times and i might get a flash of the logo but then it goes off. I unplug it multiple times for 10 seconds to 1 hour and eventually after trying and trying it comes back on. This has happened 3 or 4 times. I have other things like a cable box and PS3 on the same surge protector that never have any problems. I got a better surge protector last time this happened because i heard that my older surge protector may have been causing the problem. When i called Mitsu they offered to send someone out but i had it working again by then and didn't want to be without a TV. I have the HH Gregg service plan and thought about calling them and seeing if they would at least give me a loaner because i figure the repair will take a few days to a week knowing my luck.
Anyone else had any experience with this problem and know any fixes or ways to prevent the issue?
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post #1124 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagameballa View Post

Hey guys..I have not posted in the forums for several months..but i was wondering if anyone ever tried loading the 738/838 3d firmware upgrade on one of the 638/c10 series and if so what happened?? thanks for any replies! dgb

I would not recommend that anyone do this. The video processor is different on the C10/638 vs the 738/838. So this could "brick" ones C10/638, making the HDTV unusable.
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post #1125 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cpfms View Post

My WD-60638 has had problems on multiple occasions where the TV will just not turn on. I can do the reset and I can hear something come on but it will come back and the green light will blink a few times and i might get a flash of the logo but then it goes off. I unplug it multiple times for 10 seconds to 1 hour and eventually after trying and trying it comes back on. This has happened 3 or 4 times. I have other things like a cable box and PS3 on the same surge protector that never have any problems. I got a better surge protector last time this happened because i heard that my older surge protector may have been causing the problem. When i called Mitsu they offered to send someone out but i had it working again by then and didn't want to be without a TV. I have the HH Gregg service plan and thought about calling them and seeing if they would at least give me a loaner because i figure the repair will take a few days to a week knowing my luck.
Anyone else had any experience with this problem and know any fixes or ways to prevent the issue?

Are you getting an "invalid signal" during this time. And does this happen mainly when you have the PS3 input selected? If so, you're in need of a "high speed" HDMI cable. You can get them at mono price for cheap (few bucks). The alternative is you can disable deep color (I think) on the PS3. Search the thread for PS3 since a few people had issues with "invalid signals". But if that's not your problem then there are other things at play. With regards to surge protection - if you get the same problem with the HDTV directly plugged into the outlet then you confirm if that's an issue, which I doubt it is.
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post #1126 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

Are you getting an "invalid signal" during this time. And does this happen mainly when you have the PS3 input selected? If so, you're in need of a "high speed" HDMI cable. You can get them at mono price for cheap (few bucks). The alternative is you can disable deep color (I think) on the PS3. Search the thread for PS3 since a few people had issues with "invalid signals". But if that's not your problem then there are other things at play. With regards to surge protection - if you get the same problem with the HDTV directly plugged into the outlet then you confirm if that's an issue, which I doubt it is.

No Invalid signal issues. I have a PS3 and I have high speed cables. The TV just won't turn on at all. I also tried plugging the TV directly into an outlet on a separate jack and get the same results. When i plug it in i can hear it "whirr" inside like a fan is spinning and then the green light will blink on and off 2 or 3 times. The TV was on a cable box input using component cables when it was last on.

Updates
*After continuing the unplugging for 15 mins and doing the system reset i am getting a flashing green light.

*I have been hung up on twice now while being transferred to the "advanced tech support" because my TV is too new for the regular reps to help me. Argh!
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post #1127 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cpfms View Post

Updates
*After continuing the unplugging for 15 mins and doing the system reset i am getting a flashing green light.

Flashing green light means the Lamp is cooling...This usually happens when the tv has been turned off 60 secs after. So the fact this is happening could mean an overheating problem with the TV

One thing you could try as a last resort is try to update the firmware...

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post #1128 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shibez View Post

Flashing green light means the Lamp is cooling...This usually happens when the tv has been turned off 60 secs after. So the fact this is happening could mean an overheating problem with the TV

One thing you could try as a last resort is try to update the firmware...

They have a tech scheduled for Monday but i will try the update just to see what happens!

*The update seems to have worked, at least temporarily. I am still going to let them look at it on Monday. Thanks for the advice!
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post #1129 of 1377 Old 09-23-2011, 02:19 PM
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anyone figure out what the firmware update was for?

this
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post #1130 of 1377 Old 09-25-2011, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post


It's important to note that the video processor on the C10/638 is different vs. the other models. The "Natural" mode on these sets are not able to reproduce deep reds. Mitsubishi changed things up with the C10/638 models. So while they might be similar to the higher end modes, they are very different when it comes to their video processing and picture modes results. Here's how I would describe the picture modes on the C10/638 and why I consider the Brilliant mode the best.

Brilliant - Provides what I feel to be the best overall picture with deep reds and accurate yellows. The only negative is the picture can be slightly warm with some content. More so when the color is north of 32 for blu-ray movies and 36 for HDTV.

Bright - Picture is highly sharpened by default which makes it a poor mode to use for HDTV. But it does use a slightly different color space and sometimes looks better on a few blu-ray movies or sporting events (more accurate greens). This mode also produces darker shadow areas (more black crush).

Natural - The max. red is not bright enough to represent the full color range (reds are more pink like than red in saturation). This mode is the worst on HDTV but can work for Film based movies. The Natural mode is very close to the Brilliant mode but with limited color range. This is why it's not best for HDTV since the picture looks a bit bland, similar to water colors vs oil paints.

That's interesting. I'd love to see the values you measured with your calibration equipment that showed this anomaly. Please post your x,y,Y values from each mode.
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post #1131 of 1377 Old 09-26-2011, 07:23 PM
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The latest firmware is 12.02 ?
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post #1132 of 1377 Old 09-27-2011, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

The latest firmware is 12.02 ?

correct

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post #1133 of 1377 Old 09-27-2011, 03:43 PM
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I have a WD-60638 that is hanging up at the Mitsubishi Welcom Scrren. It will stay there with the green led blinking for as long as we let it. (For those who are wondering the longest lenght of time was 2 hours). We have to turn it on , then after it gets to the Welcome scrren, hold the power button down to do a "reset", then turn it on again and it usually works fine. I have flashed the firmware with the latest from Mitsubishi site and have tried a few other reset options I have found in the forums and else where, but nothing seems to fix it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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post #1134 of 1377 Old 09-27-2011, 05:22 PM
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How do i get into the service mode settings to change the geometry ?
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post #1135 of 1377 Old 09-27-2011, 09:50 PM
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Is there a hidden menu where you can adjust the screen
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post #1136 of 1377 Old 09-29-2011, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwl View Post

I have a WD-60638 that is hanging up at the Mitsubishi Welcom Scrren. It will stay there with the green led blinking for as long as we let it. (For those who are wondering the longest lenght of time was 2 hours). We have to turn it on , then after it gets to the Welcome scrren, hold the power button down to do a "reset", then turn it on again and it usually works fine. I have flashed the firmware with the latest from Mitsubishi site and have tried a few other reset options I have found in the forums and else where, but nothing seems to fix it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

if i were you i would have called mitsubishi by now to have it serviced or whatever...

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post #1137 of 1377 Old 09-29-2011, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pseudonym View Post

this

So i contacted mitsubishi to ask them what the latest upgrade does for the tv and this is what they replied with...

Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Electric Visual Solutions America, Inc. We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website. Here is the information you requested:



We don't release specific details on what our software updates entail. It is recommended to keep your TV up-to-date.


Regards


Mitsubishi Electronic Visual Solutions

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post #1138 of 1377 Old 09-30-2011, 03:06 PM
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That's interesting. I'd love to see the values you measured with your calibration equipment that showed this anomaly. Please post your x,y,Y values from each mode.

Still waiting...
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post #1139 of 1377 Old 10-01-2011, 05:48 PM
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I found the code for the secret service menu

Press

Menu,2,4,7,0

On the original remote ,the service menu should appear on the screen
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post #1140 of 1377 Old 10-02-2011, 06:54 PM
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I purchased a 65738 a few weeks ago and love it. I have a question about the inputs, though. I use my PS3 for games and Blu-Rays under the input labeled Playstation. My question is if the Playstation input affects the picture at all. I know the gaming labels get rid of brilliant mode, which I don't use. Should I change the input name to someting else when I watch Blu-Rays? What do you guys do? Thanks.

[Edit] I just realized I posted this on the 638 board.
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